This trick works a little too good! Save 15% off Nikko's Iron Man Faceplate with the code UJ Baby www.nikkoindustries.com/collections/all/products/iron-man-faceplate-display
Another cool thing you can do with UV resin: Thin it with lacquer thinner and airbrush it onto your FDM models. It's pretty thin, but you can build coats or introduce this towards the end of your processing. It's almost like UV-drying micro filler paint. I use it to fill sanding scratches and leveling out imperfections. surprisingly, it still cures well, and hey, no brush strokes. I imagine if you use a larger sprayer, you can hog out the thicker resin. Something to consider with your masks or other props.
When you mentioned talk, it reminded me that minerals are often used as fillers into plastics. E.g. PVC can have addition of like 80% of calcium carbonate (nanometer (
Awesome video as always, but I would recommend to use a transparent resin and milled glassfibre as a filler, this would then also fully cure, to prevent monomers migrating out of the resin. The talcum absorbs UV light and therefore it can't fully cure when used in larger amounts.
I am amazed when I see people wearing gloves with resin prints and then dry sand them. Wet sanding keeps dust down, and if you use my favorite trick (using windex instead of water) it will dry faster and even allow you to smooth/strip paint.
Funny story, this is basically what automotive body fillers like Bondo are made of. They're usually polyester resin, like most fiberglass resins, with fillers like talc. I frequently mix up my own body filler with talc and epoxy or polyester resin, it works great. Just make sure the baby powder you're getting is actually talc, and doesn't have a lot of fragrances, aloe, etc in it. Most baby powders nowadays are actually cornstarch.
Great info! thanks! I do a lot of resin work and I used to us small amounts at the point where ut starts to thicken to patch and sand. I never thought to just add talc. Thanks so much for adding more great info!
Thanks for the tip. One point, as I make and paint injection molded model Aircraft, there are very small metal spatulas and apply tools designed for modeling. You can apply tiny measured dabs to the model, avoiding dealing or masking it off beforehand with tape.
1. Add the resin to the filler (baking soda or talcum powder) so you don't end up with too much goop. 2. Use painter's tape to mask off areas that you don't need to fill to reduce sanding. 3. Use a silicone spatula (Dollar Store item) instead of your gloved fingers to smooth & wipe the excess filler before curing.
Really useful tip for larger surface area coverage. May have to use this for some of my ThorDalorian armor plates when they come off the printer. For smaller areas or details I generally use either Vallejo or Tamiya plastic putty (since I'm primarily a miniature / bust kindda guy) since I have those laying around. They tend to be less thick than bondo, have a really good working time and take very little effort to sand smooth.
Durham's Water Putty is my go-to gap filler for my prints. It's incredibly cheap, you can get it at any home depot, it doesn't smell, and it's relatively clean. It comes as a powder that you mix with regular water, dries super hard and sandable. Only real downside is that even in its cured state, it will soften if dampened, so it needs to be coated with something to protect it and you can't just rinse the print to prepare it for painting.
One thing to watch out for is that thicker globs of the mix might not cure all the way. Also, lil tip for gap filling on GK style prints where you wanna paint parts separately for strong color separation, paint some petroleum jelly (Vicks vaporub works great) on one side, glob in you filler on the other, press fit the two parts together, clean up the squeeze out, then cure. Bam, perfect gapless press-fit ready for cleanup and painting.
I love this idea for bonding two sides of a helmet together on the inside. I usually use a FDM pen to weld together helmet prints on my FDM printer and this could work great for resin prints in the same way. Using it thick could give it some nice strength to keep those seams nice and strong.
ok well ive been using flour for the last few months i might need to swap to baby powder lol another trick mate , is get a big Syringe , and i use ( squeeze) it into gaps, then UV light then again , not only does this seal it up but its stronger that superglue, , its a little time consuming but i get better control with gaps , rock on
Jessy, the problem with this method (and minorly the paint on method) is that your only curing the top layer (maybe the second layer with the more transparent resins) So when you were doing the mask you were then sanding down the top layer which was then freeing up the resin that wasnt cured onto your sand paper (likely you didnt notice this)
This is smart. I was going to try to find some kind of gel or thickener used for fake UV nail art but baby powder is the much cheaper and more convenient option. Using essentially the same resin to film gaps and sand the surface finish smooth will be so much easier and more effective then messing with the bondo which I don’t really like using. Thanks for the update!
I use spackle paste for drywall( the stuff that goes in between the tiles) to fill holes and layer lines, it can be thinned with water and it's non toxic, i also picked up Vallejo Plastic putty, similar to the drywall stuff but when it dries it has more flexibility where as the drywall stuff gets kinda brittle.
Uncle Jessy Cool, it’s all I use, I also use a wet brush after applying the paste to smooth it out, also works with a rag, that what I used on the Vigo base.
The benifit of this over CA glue and baking soda is that the glue and soda is instant. You put soda where you want the fill (which is a powder so not alot of control, besides using gravity to hold it where you want) then apply CA glue on top, very hard fill.... But this method is leaps and bounds better, you have a workable paste till boom instantly cure when and where you want it. With much more carefull application, like with a toothpick for instance..... This very well may have replaced many methods of finishing models and miniatures.
Its nice to see guys like you playing with things to make things easier for everyone! Thanks for that! Ive been playing with it and you can really get in trouble with the resin trick...but I think once you master it....it was be an awesome tool for the toolbox! Thanks for video!
Woah, this seems awesome. As much as spending hours sanding/priming can be a fun zen sort of experience... if I can cut that time down and get good results... heck yes!
I LOVE the smell of that spot putty! What really stinks? Cutting and sanding Elk antler for a knife handle. Oy... Learned that one today too. Some great experimental tips Jessy! Love your stuff buddy!
Been using this technique for years. I thought it was common knowledge. lol. You're essentially home brewing car filler. Except its UV resin instead of fibreglass resin. One reason I use it, is that different fillers sand at different rates to the surface. Which can still leave a raised ridge, or depression after sanding. Only to come back after painting. With the UV/talc filler. Its basically the same material as the surface. Which means leveling is far easier, and less likely to leave imperfections. Less prep equals a happy modeler in my case.
If you need to sand a very smooth finish, you could flash spray over the filler with a contrasting color paint spray can and then sand till it's almost completely gone, only the low spots and pits should be left, then repeat if necessary until you are left with a thin even coat of filler. Love your content! cheers
Now that is a stinker, and the fumes! I used to make nosecones with fibreglass, switched to laminating epoxy resin for the fibreglass, almost no smell, a bit of soap smell...
In boat building we call this "fairing". As others have said, the talc probably stops a lot of the UV from getting through the resin and you probably end up with some uncured resin in there, especially where you filled the hole on the sonic. But a great alternative is to just use a 2 part epoxy instead. Exact same process except the resin cures without UV light, and regardless of how thick a layer is. It needs to be left a lot longer to cure, but if you had deep gaps to fill on a big project, it would be a much better option.
This video was very useful, thank you for sharing it and please send thanks to the person who showed you too! I wish I had learned about this when I was making the ace of spades lol
@@UncleJessy they're pretty hazardous (need a respirator) so probably not great for this use case, but maybe there's a safer alternative as a thickener?
Have you ever tried dipping small prints (like RPG figures) into a vat of resin (pure or thinned) and let drip dry? IF it works out the way I'm thinking, then you should get a smooth coat with only a dried drip spot to clean up. Also, have you ever tried using a thick needle syringe (like they use in cooking) to inject thicker resins into voids to reduce the amount of sanding needed?
Amazing video!!! I have a question!? Can you give me the link of your shelving behind you for your collectibles! I have a ton and would love to display them like yours in this video !
Awe thanks! That was a custom made shelving unit that I made a few years ago from 2x4's and 1"x12"x8ft long boards. Took about an afternoon to put together maybe a little more with some basic painting
Another alternative is using a mix of CA glue and baking powder. If you get a kit that has thin, medium, and thick glues, you'll want to use the thin CA glue, it mixes with the baking soda considerably easier than the other two. The mixture sets rapidly, and will probably be even stronger than the 3D printed part. I watched one video where the mixture was used to fill a small cardboard box that razor blades were packaged in. A small hole was drilled and tapped, a steel bolt was threaded into the hole, and the glue mixture firmly held the bolt. I just used this method to repair a cracked overhang on a plastic trash can. CA glue and baby powder will give you similar results, with the only exception being, that it dries slower than with baking powder, which gives you a longer work time.
We use the same resin to seal, glue, and gap seems and fill areas that got damaged or messed up either during print or finishing. Best to use the same resin you printed with, in the case of FDM, never tried this with FDM before, but I would think it should work about the same.
This is great because you can have a fully resin finish with matched colors if you use the same color as the print! This is perfect for my bjds I'm trying to sell!
i use steelwool + resin to fill in holes. I wonder if theres other powers out there that can give it a lot more strength , like mix it with metal powders ? This is better than bondo because u can use leftover resin to reduce wastage
@@UncleJessy i have only used it to cover drain holes, so not really sure, i use dip the steel wool in resin then jam it into the hole and cure it, then apply some more resin on top and cure it again
@@UncleJessy and its also easier to close holes with steel wool because it acts as a mesh/bridging layer to prevent resin from dropping down into the model instead of staying aroudn the hole.
Great idea! It reminds me of the marble powder you can use with urethane resin. It slows down the curing time but adds so much weight and it creates a paste that I often use as glue instead of the two part tubes you can buy normally. I will be doing this for the handle of the lightsaber with the leftover elegoo resin. Thanks man!!
It’s like the model trick of getting rid of seem lines with baking powder/soda and super glue. I didn’t even think of something like that. Gonna need to do it to fix some seem lines.
Corn starch would be my go-to fine powder, though as you might imagine, it's a bit more tricky to get your mixture spot-on as it absorbs moisture readily. It'd be very easy to get a paste however, and a 1 pound bag lasts Forever. Something you would benefit to work on personally is keying your models, which can be done very easily in Fusion 360, even if you're importing it versus having it natively. If you have zbrush, that's also an option and probably easier as it will import OBJ files without having to convert it through Fusion's various preferred file types. Though going through Fusion, you can be 100% certain you'll maintain manifold shells.
@@UncleJessy Yes exactly. It's called metal cold casting with epoxy resin if I remember correctly, that's how I got the idea. The powder needs to be thin and the resin clear (even colours work). Try not to put too much at least at supports layers level as you can damage a bit the FEP since the build plate collapses on the FEP and might apply pressure. After that this is all good. I am now experimenting with crushed golden/silver leaves but this is not as cool 😎. Please let me know how it turns out for you ! Cheers. (Also select a metal that is not too dark)
Nice video. The curing times may have me change from using epoxy resin to UV resin. We use laminating epoxy resin mixed with a filler, cotton flock, glass balls and other materials. We usually add enough that the mix starts to look and feel like vaseline or smooth peanut butter. I can use the same with the resin and then just sun cure it in minutes, instead of days like with the epoxy resin. I just realised that this would be perfect for quick, on location repairs to model rockets.
If you try to put the filler on the peices pieces before you put them together then use a bondo spreader or razor knife to take the excess off arter you put the parts together it might make for a smoother finish with a lot less sanding.
This would yes. Also you can buy silicon mixing cups! www.amazon.com/Facemask-Include-Silicone-Measuring-Brushes/dp/B07VCDJDQS/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=silicone+mixing+cup&qid=1614530631&sr=8-12 I don't have any affiliate links so if you see a link its straight to amazon.
I am really surprised that this isn't mentioned anywhere in the video. I'm always wearing my respirator when sanding, especially when sanding resin. Don't need that crap in my lungs.
Slapmat question: How sturdy are those mats? Can you pick them up or are they pretty flimsy? I bought a dog bowl mat and it works well but pretty flimsy
thanks for the tip! excited to sue this on my current Clone Wars Obi Wan armor build, would you say this mixture is more brittle than bondo? there are some thin parts that might flex just a tad, im worried the resin will crack..
for many years I've been using baking soda with cyanoacrylate (super glue) to make it much more resilient for filling gaps, would baking soda work similarly to the baby powder in the resin hack you're doing?
How does this compare with wood filler? Also would a foam brush work better than a chip or finger? Just printed 4 out of 5 Bad Batch helmets and looking for some good easy tips to save on the sanding. GREAT VID UJ! 👍🏻
Ohh well there you go. Do 2 with resin and 2 with woodfiller 😬🙃 The resin can leave you with a slightly tacky surface but I always prime and sand more. Woodfiller is also an awesome option
Quick question, how well does the mixture clean up? Reason why I ask is if you use tools that are less disposable (dental tools, sculpting tools) , how difficult is it to clean them off?
Hey buddy , just thinking would corn flour work (corn starch) ? I'm thinking maybe it would make for stronger bonding with resin and not make it as brittle , just a thought lol!
That's what I was thinking. Seems like corn starch would be better for this application. It's more readily available since it's a common baking ingredient and baby power is mostly corn starch anyway. Plus you wouldn't get the unnecessary additives like perfumes.
I use Alabastine Polyester Repair Resin normally I use it with fiberglass to reinforce armors or helmets but solo works amazing just brush it in wait to cure and prime it. and you retain a lot of details. it is amazing You should try it out.
How about fillers for hollow prints? I just started printing recently and couldn't find much info on the subject. I found one video suggesting casting plaster, so I used that to fill my Samaritan that I just finished printing and it's great! Added some nice heft to the piece.
This trick works a little too good!
Save 15% off Nikko's Iron Man Faceplate with the code UJ Baby
www.nikkoindustries.com/collections/all/products/iron-man-faceplate-display
Another cool thing you can do with UV resin: Thin it with lacquer thinner and airbrush it onto your FDM models. It's pretty thin, but you can build coats or introduce this towards the end of your processing. It's almost like UV-drying micro filler paint. I use it to fill sanding scratches and leveling out imperfections. surprisingly, it still cures well, and hey, no brush strokes. I imagine if you use a larger sprayer, you can hog out the thicker resin. Something to consider with your masks or other props.
@@jasonMontalvo1 Spraying resin into the air is not recommended
When you mentioned talk, it reminded me that minerals are often used as fillers into plastics. E.g. PVC can have addition of like 80% of calcium carbonate (nanometer (
Awesome video as always, but I would recommend to use a transparent resin and milled glassfibre as a filler, this would then also fully cure, to prevent monomers migrating out of the resin. The talcum absorbs UV light and therefore it can't fully cure when used in larger amounts.
“I’m trying to fill the void with resin” can be the name of your memoirs.
Merch madness ;)
I am amazed when I see people wearing gloves with resin prints and then dry sand them. Wet sanding keeps dust down, and if you use my favorite trick (using windex instead of water) it will dry faster and even allow you to smooth/strip paint.
Between this and your last video, you have literally saved me days worth of filling and sanding - you are an absolute godsend to my workflow!
Loving these little tricks. Less stinky and cures so dang fast
Funny story, this is basically what automotive body fillers like Bondo are made of. They're usually polyester resin, like most fiberglass resins, with fillers like talc. I frequently mix up my own body filler with talc and epoxy or polyester resin, it works great. Just make sure the baby powder you're getting is actually talc, and doesn't have a lot of fragrances, aloe, etc in it. Most baby powders nowadays are actually cornstarch.
Great info! thanks! I do a lot of resin work and I used to us small amounts at the point where ut starts to thicken to patch and sand. I never thought to just add talc. Thanks so much for adding more great info!
Would it okay if i use cornstarch instead?
Totally makes sense. One if my favorite fillers is Thick CA and Baby Powder. Nice trick I've got a project I'll try this on.
Nice man! I need to binge some more of your videos. About to start painting some of the statues I’ve printed
@@UncleJessy Awesome, looking forward to seeing some paint on them.
** COUGH COUGH ** print a stir stick.
Now that would be too sensible.
Lol
Why they them give away for free at Sherwin Williams if buy something. They sell bondo spot putty there
Resin mixed with talcum powder is a classic way for resin thickening for resin casting. But with the mix, it's also brittle.
Adding angel hair might be a better option
@@previctom I prefer vermicelli
Great to know thanks!
inbe4 someone steps in with dollar store ramen and superglue
@@Metroidf4n no
Thanks for the tip. One point, as I make and paint injection molded model Aircraft, there are very small metal spatulas and apply tools designed for modeling. You can apply tiny measured dabs to the model, avoiding dealing or masking it off beforehand with tape.
Wow! Thank you for sharing this because I was on the way to the store to buy wood filler to fix a print I'm working on. Your da man!
Nice!! I do still love some woodfiller but this method works great if you have resin on hand
1. Add the resin to the filler (baking soda or talcum powder) so you don't end up with too much goop.
2. Use painter's tape to mask off areas that you don't need to fill to reduce sanding.
3. Use a silicone spatula (Dollar Store item) instead of your gloved fingers to smooth & wipe the excess filler before curing.
Just bought a flexible spatula the other day!
Really useful tip for larger surface area coverage. May have to use this for some of my ThorDalorian armor plates when they come off the printer.
For smaller areas or details I generally use either Vallejo or Tamiya plastic putty (since I'm primarily a miniature / bust kindda guy) since I have those laying around. They tend to be less thick than bondo, have a really good working time and take very little effort to sand smooth.
Will need to pickup some of that Vallejo or Tamiya plastic putty and test it out!
Durham's Water Putty is my go-to gap filler for my prints. It's incredibly cheap, you can get it at any home depot, it doesn't smell, and it's relatively clean. It comes as a powder that you mix with regular water, dries super hard and sandable. Only real downside is that even in its cured state, it will soften if dampened, so it needs to be coated with something to protect it and you can't just rinse the print to prepare it for painting.
Oh nice. Adding that to my shopping list
One thing to watch out for is that thicker globs of the mix might not cure all the way.
Also, lil tip for gap filling on GK style prints where you wanna paint parts separately for strong color separation, paint some petroleum jelly (Vicks vaporub works great) on one side, glob in you filler on the other, press fit the two parts together, clean up the squeeze out, then cure. Bam, perfect gapless press-fit ready for cleanup and painting.
I love this idea for bonding two sides of a helmet together on the inside. I usually use a FDM pen to weld together helmet prints on my FDM printer and this could work great for resin prints in the same way. Using it thick could give it some nice strength to keep those seams nice and strong.
I have a 7" tall multipart resin print that has some gaps between the parts. I may use this for that.
Nice! I will be using this on a really large upcoming statue project build
GENIUS! I remember your video on Bondo spot-filling from 2016-ish, stoked to see a new and better way of smoothing parts!
🤣😂 indeed! Thanks man
ok well ive been using flour for the last few months i might need to swap to baby powder lol another trick mate , is get a big Syringe , and i use ( squeeze) it into gaps, then UV light then again , not only does this seal it up but its stronger that superglue, , its a little time consuming but i get better control with gaps , rock on
Oh man I need a resin syringe 😂 that sounds even crazier to use.
Jessy, the problem with this method (and minorly the paint on method) is that your only curing the top layer (maybe the second layer with the more transparent resins) So when you were doing the mask you were then sanding down the top layer which was then freeing up the resin that wasnt cured onto your sand paper (likely you didnt notice this)
Now this is neat
Great use for left over resin
100% I end up with a small amount of left over resin and sometimes not sure what to do with it
This is smart. I was going to try to find some kind of gel or thickener used for fake UV nail art but baby powder is the much cheaper and more convenient option. Using essentially the same resin to film gaps and sand the surface finish smooth will be so much easier and more effective then messing with the bondo which I don’t really like using. Thanks for the update!
thanks and hope it works well for you!
I use spackle paste for drywall( the stuff that goes in between the tiles) to fill holes and layer lines, it can be thinned with water and it's non toxic, i also picked up Vallejo Plastic putty, similar to the drywall stuff but when it dries it has more flexibility where as the drywall stuff gets kinda brittle.
Awesome options! Will look at grabbing some to try out
Uncle Jessy Cool, it’s all I use, I also use a wet brush after applying the paste to smooth it out, also works with a rag, that what I used on the Vigo base.
You're a life saver!! Bondo was costing too much for my projects, this will do!
Nice!
I think we're all enjoying these videos on prop making techniques.
Great video!
😬🤘 thanks! Should have more on the way between videos on new machines
@@UncleJessy Cool!
Nice one! For small holes I use CA glue and baking soda. It's super fast.
Ummm that sounds awesome. Going to have to try that out
The benifit of this over CA glue and baking soda is that the glue and soda is instant. You put soda where you want the fill (which is a powder so not alot of control, besides using gravity to hold it where you want) then apply CA glue on top, very hard fill....
But this method is leaps and bounds better, you have a workable paste till boom instantly cure when and where you want it. With much more carefull application, like with a toothpick for instance..... This very well may have replaced many methods of finishing models and miniatures.
This would be a great use for old resin.
Its nice to see guys like you playing with things to make things easier for everyone! Thanks for that! Ive been playing with it and you can really get in trouble with the resin trick...but I think once you master it....it was be an awesome tool for the toolbox! Thanks for video!
Woah, this seems awesome. As much as spending hours sanding/priming can be a fun zen sort of experience... if I can cut that time down and get good results... heck yes!
I LOVE the smell of that spot putty!
What really stinks? Cutting and sanding Elk antler for a knife handle. Oy... Learned that one today too.
Some great experimental tips Jessy! Love your stuff buddy!
Been using this technique for years. I thought it was common knowledge. lol. You're essentially home brewing car filler. Except its UV resin instead of fibreglass resin. One reason I use it, is that different fillers sand at different rates to the surface. Which can still leave a raised ridge, or depression after sanding. Only to come back after painting. With the UV/talc filler. Its basically the same material as the surface. Which means leveling is far easier, and less likely to leave imperfections. Less prep equals a happy modeler in my case.
Awesome to hear! Yeah, have never seen or heard about it but clearly a lot of people have been doing similar things for a while now
Now I have a use for my left over resin!
Exactly! A little left over resin is perfect for this
If you need to sand a very smooth finish, you could flash spray over the filler with a contrasting color paint spray can and then sand till it's almost completely gone, only the low spots and pits should be left, then repeat if necessary until you are left with a thin even coat of filler.
Love your content! cheers
I use powdered chalk when using fibreglass resin. Same principle. Great job.
Now that is a stinker, and the fumes! I used to make nosecones with fibreglass, switched to laminating epoxy resin for the fibreglass, almost no smell, a bit of soap smell...
In boat building we call this "fairing". As others have said, the talc probably stops a lot of the UV from getting through the resin and you probably end up with some uncured resin in there, especially where you filled the hole on the sonic. But a great alternative is to just use a 2 part epoxy instead. Exact same process except the resin cures without UV light, and regardless of how thick a layer is.
It needs to be left a lot longer to cure, but if you had deep gaps to fill on a big project, it would be a much better option.
Do you have a link to the UV protection glasses?
Got a link to those glasses?
Can it be painted after getting this resin? Has it good durability for outside tools?
This video was very useful, thank you for sharing it and please send thanks to the person who showed you too! I wish I had learned about this when I was making the ace of spades lol
Epoxy + Silicd powder or Apoxie or polyester paste also works well
Really enjoyed the video! That's a 3D printing enthusiast, I'll definitely have to give this a shot.
Awesome to hear! Thanks for checking it out
Thank you
Seems to work similarly to glass bubbles in epoxy for composite/molding applications, neat trick!
Oh cool I need to look into that. I've never heard of glass bubbles before
@@UncleJessy they're pretty hazardous (need a respirator) so probably not great for this use case, but maybe there's a safer alternative as a thickener?
Thanks Uncle Jessy! You rock!
This is great to try on my Ironman Mk 85 armor project.
have you tried to use this as glue to connect pieces together?
but why would you add 4 steps to just one step of applying bondo thin paste?
Would corn starch work as well ?
Have you ever tried dipping small prints (like RPG figures) into a vat of resin (pure or thinned) and let drip dry? IF it works out the way I'm thinking, then you should get a smooth coat with only a dried drip spot to clean up.
Also, have you ever tried using a thick needle syringe (like they use in cooking) to inject thicker resins into voids to reduce the amount of sanding needed?
Is it possible to use a miniature airbrush to spray the resin on the 3D printed models?
Awesome tip Jessie, thanks!
The “not like this” barbaric shot exists solely to help legitimate the clickbaity thumbnail.
Super cool tip but is it any better then wood filler?
Evercoat Polyester Glazing Putty is what I like to use for spots like that. (6:20)
Sweet thanks. Will check that out
How thick do you want that mixture?
Uncle Jessy: TTTHHHHHHHHIIIICK!!
🤪😬
Amazing video!!! I have a question!? Can you give me the link of your shelving behind you for your collectibles! I have a ton and would love to display them like yours in this video !
Awe thanks! That was a custom made shelving unit that I made a few years ago from 2x4's and 1"x12"x8ft long boards. Took about an afternoon to put together maybe a little more with some basic painting
I'm going to get a resin Printer soon, but may pick up extra resin for my fdm prints.
Another alternative is using a mix of CA glue and baking powder. If you get a kit that has thin, medium, and thick glues, you'll want to use the thin CA glue, it mixes with the baking soda considerably easier than the other two. The mixture sets rapidly, and will probably be even stronger than the 3D printed part. I watched one video where the mixture was used to fill a small cardboard box that razor blades were packaged in. A small hole was drilled and tapped, a steel bolt was threaded into the hole, and the glue mixture firmly held the bolt. I just used this method to repair a cracked overhang on a plastic trash can. CA glue and baby powder will give you similar results, with the only exception being, that it dries slower than with baking powder, which gives you a longer work time.
We use the same resin to seal, glue, and gap seems and fill areas that got damaged or messed up either during print or finishing. Best to use the same resin you printed with, in the case of FDM, never tried this with FDM before, but I would think it should work about the same.
This is great because you can have a fully resin finish with matched colors if you use the same color as the print! This is perfect for my bjds I'm trying to sell!
i use steelwool + resin to fill in holes. I wonder if theres other powers out there that can give it a lot more strength , like mix it with metal powders ? This is better than bondo because u can use leftover resin to reduce wastage
Oh man I love the idea of resin+Steelwool. Do you think that adds more strength to your prints?
@@UncleJessy i have only used it to cover drain holes, so not really sure, i use dip the steel wool in resin then jam it into the hole and cure it, then apply some more resin on top and cure it again
@@UncleJessy and its also easier to close holes with steel wool because it acts as a mesh/bridging layer to prevent resin from dropping down into the model instead of staying aroudn the hole.
Great idea! It reminds me of the marble powder you can use with urethane resin. It slows down the curing time but adds so much weight and it creates a paste that I often use as glue instead of the two part tubes you can buy normally. I will be doing this for the handle of the lightsaber with the leftover elegoo resin. Thanks man!!
Would you be able to lightly use a heat gun on the resin after its spread to help smooth it better before curing?
I have actually done something similar with fiberglass resin only on an fdm print and had great results.
Do you have a video explaining how to sand things nice and smooth
Hello do you have any tips for smoothing PLA ?
It’s like the model trick of getting rid of seem lines with baking powder/soda and super glue. I didn’t even think of something like that. Gonna need to do it to fix some seem lines.
Corn starch would be my go-to fine powder, though as you might imagine, it's a bit more tricky to get your mixture spot-on as it absorbs moisture readily. It'd be very easy to get a paste however, and a 1 pound bag lasts Forever.
Something you would benefit to work on personally is keying your models, which can be done very easily in Fusion 360, even if you're importing it versus having it natively. If you have zbrush, that's also an option and probably easier as it will import OBJ files without having to convert it through Fusion's various preferred file types. Though going through Fusion, you can be 100% certain you'll maintain manifold shells.
Can this method "glue" together PETG?
Game Changer with this..again!! lol What a great tip
😬😬😬😬 thanks for checking it out!
hi, i have been trying to look for, materials i could use to fill my hollow prints, do you have any idea what is the best fillers? thank you
A great share... Thanks...
What brand of UV light are you using? Thanks for the video!
Hey Uncle Jessy. I do this with metallic powder :) and the result is PHENOMENAL when you sand it. You should try.
Clear or opaque resin?
Do you mix in the metallic powders with the resin before printing? I was going to try that out
@@UncleJessy Yes exactly. It's called metal cold casting with epoxy resin if I remember correctly, that's how I got the idea. The powder needs to be thin and the resin clear (even colours work). Try not to put too much at least at supports layers level as you can damage a bit the FEP since the build plate collapses on the FEP and might apply pressure. After that this is all good.
I am now experimenting with crushed golden/silver leaves but this is not as cool 😎.
Please let me know how it turns out for you !
Cheers.
(Also select a metal that is not too dark)
Nice video.
The curing times may have me change from using epoxy resin to UV resin.
We use laminating epoxy resin mixed with a filler, cotton flock, glass balls and other materials.
We usually add enough that the mix starts to look and feel like vaseline or smooth peanut butter.
I can use the same with the resin and then just sun cure it in minutes, instead of days like with the epoxy resin.
I just realised that this would be perfect for quick, on location repairs to model rockets.
How about applying it with a piping bag ?
If you try to put the filler on the peices pieces before you put them together then use a bondo spreader or razor knife to take the excess off arter you put the parts together it might make for a smoother finish with a lot less sanding.
so smart i can finally get resin without an resin printer! also would silicone tipped make up brushes be easier to apply the resin?
This would yes. Also you can buy silicon mixing cups! www.amazon.com/Facemask-Include-Silicone-Measuring-Brushes/dp/B07VCDJDQS/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=silicone+mixing+cup&qid=1614530631&sr=8-12
I don't have any affiliate links so if you see a link its straight to amazon.
Can you use clay as a filler
I feel like it’s worth stating the importance of wearing the appropriate PPE when using and sanding resin.
I am really surprised that this isn't mentioned anywhere in the video. I'm always wearing my respirator when sanding, especially when sanding resin. Don't need that crap in my lungs.
Slapmat question: How sturdy are those mats? Can you pick them up or are they pretty flimsy? I bought a dog bowl mat and it works well but pretty flimsy
the slap mats are thicker and more durable. The dog food stuff is pretty thin by comparison.
thanks for the tip! excited to sue this on my current Clone Wars Obi Wan armor build, would you say this mixture is more brittle than bondo? there are some thin parts that might flex just a tad, im worried the resin will crack..
for many years I've been using baking soda with cyanoacrylate (super glue) to make it much more resilient for filling gaps, would baking soda work similarly to the baby powder in the resin hack you're doing?
Someone else asked the same thing, I will need to test that out and see. Pretty sure it would work
Good tips, thanks!
This method reminds me a lot of Apoxie Sculpt, a 2-part "epoxy clay" just obviously not as pasty, but you can smooth and thin it slightly with water
Great video. But I have to know, where do I find that Magneto helmet next to Infinity Guantlet?
How does this compare with wood filler? Also would a foam brush work better than a chip or finger? Just printed 4 out of 5 Bad Batch helmets and looking for some good easy tips to save on the sanding. GREAT VID UJ! 👍🏻
Ohh well there you go. Do 2 with resin and 2 with woodfiller 😬🙃
The resin can leave you with a slightly tacky surface but I always prime and sand more. Woodfiller is also an awesome option
This is definitely a game changer!
Thanks for checking it out and hope it helps!
What if the baby powder is added in the resin printer vat?
Is it possible to print with this mix? Or is something going to break?
Jesus christ, you are a wizard. This is game changing.
Works amazing for filling seams in your prints!
Quick question, how well does the mixture clean up? Reason why I ask is if you use tools that are less disposable (dental tools, sculpting tools) , how difficult is it to clean them off?
Hey J man I used a system similar to welding ( I call it ) . I use filament and a hot wire tool .
Hey buddy , just thinking would corn flour work (corn starch) ? I'm thinking maybe it would make for stronger bonding with resin and not make it as brittle , just a thought lol!
That's what I was thinking. Seems like corn starch would be better for this application. It's more readily available since it's a common baking ingredient and baby power is mostly corn starch anyway. Plus you wouldn't get the unnecessary additives like perfumes.
@@binarybrian exactly 👍 plus it should thicken up more using less product than talcum powder ( baby powder)
You can grind up your supports in an old coffee grinder and mix that in with liquid resin.
Doesn’t the resin smell worse than the bindi? Isn’t resin toxic to breath in? How you have it in home?
I use Alabastine Polyester Repair Resin normally I use it with fiberglass to reinforce armors or helmets but solo works amazing just brush it in wait to cure and prime it. and you retain a lot of details. it is amazing You should try it out.
Just wondering if this works with baking soda as well.
Still waiting when the Elegoo Neptune 2 is available...…it's advertised but not around yet!
I was told later this month there should be more in stock on Amazon. Eagerly awaiting and for sure willl be posting about it
Automotive Bondo works really well too. It does smell bad but works great on prints.
OMG Love it
How about fillers for hollow prints? I just started printing recently and couldn't find much info on the subject. I found one video suggesting casting plaster, so I used that to fill my Samaritan that I just finished printing and it's great! Added some nice heft to the piece.