Part 11... instead of throwing out the blob after purifying the IPA, place the blob into a mold to create a shape or model you wish to recreate. I create hexagons for my war game with the blob which solidifies in the sun. This way I recycle the IPA and upcycle the blob into a desirable items essentially saving money and creating less rubbish.
Ive found that the same applies to a lot of things in life. Like if you buy a fancy new panini toaster and stick it in the back of a cupboard as well as choose a hard to clean model, you'll end up never using it because even taking it out is a hassle, nevermind cleaning it.
As a newbie to resin printing, I found the warnings about how toxic the resin is overwhelming. You helped make sense of all the noise and save me a few dollars in the process. I can now print as much as I want, without worrying about my family's health or the impact that I'm having on the environment. Thanks for the great video.
It's true, I did genetics (and I never had a cross contamination), and pretty much everything you do is lab grade, except not having a fume hood, which tbh is overkill at home.. I haven't bought a 3d printer yet but I estimate it would take me perhaps 12 to 15 print goes before I wasn't really conscious of the steps..
I just got a Photon S yesterday. I was just about to set the printer up and just go for it before I saw this video. Thanks, I needed to cool my jets and prep more!
I was thinking about going into resin 3D printing... But I wasn't aware of all the post processing and precautions that it implied. Thank you for this video. Guess I'll go the FDM route.
Your videos have more information and production value than anything even the manufacturers of 3D printers can do and they have millions of dollars to produce this kind of stuff.
I just bought my first resin printer. I haven't even unwrapped it yet. I'm just gathering ideas on operations, and you've just become my go-to-guy. I'll be watching everything I can.
For Aussies, I am using the Silcon Pet Feeding mats from Kmart. The large is 60cm x 40cm, so covers a large area. I have a few of them across my work bench and they work great. They are 10 bucks at the time of writing this. They also sell a smaller version for 5 bucks. IPA is expensive and hard to come by especially with Covid. Alternative is Mythelated Spirits, it's way cheaper. However can make clear resin milky colour and can leave white blotches on cured items if not washed off correctly. Resinaway from Monocure is great as well and locally sourced.
This is one if not the best video out there on how to handle the post processing of resin prints. It really helped me get started after years of FDM printing and moving onto to SLA. Great work!
Thank you for this. Three years later this video is still helping newbies like me. I just purchased what will likely be the first of a few Resin printers. Currently buying lots of other things to go along with it and you have made me realize some things I was not considering.
Things I’d add to this: 1- Don’t use disposable gloves. Buy oversized, thick, lined nitrile gloves. You can slide them on and off easily, and resize them “forever”. MASSIVE environmental win, and user savings. 2- Get one of those full sized plastic face masks (popularized during Covid). You don’t want resin bits snapping off and hitting you anywhere in the face. 3- Get rid of the plugs on the resin bottles right away. They’re only necessary for shipping and they cause waste (using a paper towel every time to take them in and off). 4- Think your setup through. I have a wire rack that my printers sit on, but also it’s where I can put hooks and magnets on for gloves, a roll of toilet paper or paper towels, the funnel, scrapers, etc.
I seriously hope no one takes #1 seriously. Using a few extra gloves isn't going to destroy your precious environment, it's just going to be more effective at protecting you from burns, allergic reactions, cancer, and probably a host of other problems.
im currently doing research on what is required in owning a resin printer. this video and the resin printing for beginners have been very enlightening, thankyou
This is really good information for anyone starting their adventures in resin printing! My own homegrown "chemical lab" printing area and approach to printing is very similar to this (and even then there were a few good pointers that I hadn't thought of, like recycling IPA for FEP cleaning), but BOY, would I have saved so much time, money and grief had I watched this first! xD
I haven't found any more accurate and structurized instrucions on using resin filament. It is good if you add something like 'for beginners' in the title of your video.
I’ve been reaching for the goal to do 3d printing and eventually silicone casting on a commercial level to answer to my local community’s needs. This video has helped me understand just how tedious such an endeavour is, even on a hobby level. Your video has been not only informative, but humbling. You have my respect, my dude
@5:00 If you make the Stuff too difficult you'll start skipping it..have a reasonable respect for the dangers man you are on fire great tips in this video
I use most of these in one form or other. I appreciate the delineation between reasonable/practical and the practice of "Safety". The primary difference between our setups is that I have a ultrasonic cleaner large enough for the biggest print volume my printer can fill plus a little extra. This means it can fit my vat and build plate too. I don't have to brush anything. Ever. This requires a LOT of IPA (~2.5 gallons) to fill but due to its large volume there is no reason to delineate between "clean" and "dirty" IPA. For storage I used a 5 gallon bucket with sealed lid available from any hardware store. The Ultrasonic cleaner has an integrated drain valve which I have plumbed to pour directly into the bucket after use. A filter can be used to catch any supports, blobs, etc. A bonus to this setup is that I can simply put my hands in the cleaner should I get any resin on them. I don't know if I have more fumes than other setups given the surface area of my IPA is consistent and unchanging (vs. multiple large & small storage containers) but it is being agitated for the duration it is on. I do not use paper towels to wipe clean or even set the FEP on. Too much lint and abrasive properties. Lint free alcohol wipes if needed and only after an ultrasonic dip and air dry. Another difference is that I exclusively use large metal razor blades to clean my build plate (~4 inch blade with handle found in any paint aisle). I'm not sure why but to date I've had more issues with excellent adhesion than I have with poor adhesion. I've had poor experience with putty knives. For me they don't cut it and catching a corner or edge will scratch/gouge the plate. Just some of my thoughts/experience. Thank you for BulgeBuster; I'm testing it out currently.
If only i have seen your vedo before doing a mess in my desk, mouse and keyboard pouring resin out of the VAT :(, now it won't happen again Thank you it really helps a lot
Good Channel and advise Michael. I am setting up a larger and more ventilated room for the cleaning process. I use and actual paint respirator mask with charcoal filters that are made for automotive painting. It might be overkill in the slightest, but hey you only have one set of lungs, eyes, fingers etc. As a Youngster in the U.S. Navy and then Army from 1983 to 2000 I painted aircraft, worked on Diesel engines and hydraulic equipment, and worked with large batteries and just in general did a lot of jobs where I was using MEK, Naphtha, and or had my hands around and in Hostile Chemicals and or literally Sh-T. My last military job was plumbing in the Nat Guard. I was both good and bad about using proper protective equipment. at 18 and 19 and those first years we painted F4's and F14's with Polyamide paints, and Polyurethane paints. The old chiefs and petty officers would frequently be painting out on the ramp and hold the gun in their right hand, and their res mask in their left. When they sprayed they would hold up the mask to cover their face and paint. then when they were done applying the layer/coat/area they would pull the mask away. IMHO this was fine, and it worked. The stupid thing was that we were painting the aircraft outside in a ramp area, and had all kinds of personnel working on aircraft 30 to 300 feet in an area. We also painted the polyamide out on the Carrier in the hanger bay while we were underway. As I got older I got more and more friendly towards the idea and use of the Protective Equipment. Especially like you commented on when It gives you headaches and such. That means its getting inside your brain, through your lungs, and if its getting there, then its getting into your kidneys and liver, etc. Now I am a cheapskate also, LOL. And I dont like paying 21 dollars for a gallon of Alcohol so, yea, I am going to try to stretch its service life. So I like the info as you are about 4 or 5 years ahead of me on using these chems, and been 3D SLA printing. We have been doing it for 2 years now on a limited basis for custom archery bow parts, and I really haven't been in on it to much. I was making the custom strings, and my Bus Partner was 3D printing. Now that we are delving into Custom Chess pieces and I am designing large Star Trek models from the original series I have suddenly found myself crash coursing in 3D printing. We have 2 Creality Ender Weed Whacker String melters, which I have little use for so far. I am impressed a little about how much smaller they can make res lines now though. I jut bought a Anycubic M3, and M3 Mac about 2 months ago, and I have been printing for about 5 days now on the first test parts for a Romulan Warbird from The Original Series of Star Trek. I mixed E85 with Denatured Alcohol, and I also used strait E85. The first print parts have errors in them and are being printed so I can adjust the design until I can get them to print into parts that I can use as model parts. I see no difference in the effect of this cleaning method other than #1 the 85 is more toxic in the fume department, but not by much. It does contain Gasoline so that means If I breath the fumes, it is not just alcohol, but gasoline also. We all know, or should know that breathing, snorting, huffing gasoline is not good for the human body, and I mean a big (NOT GOOD FOR THE HUMAN BODY). I had dumb ass friends in the 5th and 6th grade that huffed gasoline and even at that age I couldn't believe how stupid they were, and or how dumb that was. My father and uncles and typically mechanics back then used to wash oil and engine dirt off of their hands with gasoline. I did to in the 1970's because it was a common practice. Then when I got into the Navy I discovered Go-Jo and Mean Green, and things that didn't make the nerves in your hands tingle because of osmosis. Anyway I didn't intend to write an essay here. I just wanted to point out. Safety First. Yea. Share the advice like Michael here, Dont Breath fumes unless its Cinnamon rolls in the oven. Dont bathe in IPA/MEK/Gasoline and paint. Gloves are cheaper than new skin. Facemasks are cheaper than new eyes and lips. Personally I think the Covid masks are inadequate for Denatured A/IPA I have been cleaning stuff with and without the germ masks and I come to find that ventilation is key. If the fumes are not there, and or minimal to start with, the better, and like I mentioned before, I am using a paint res grade mask when cleaning. I have some really good cleaning containers I bought from Home Depot that have O rings in the lid so that keeps the evaporation down, and at the moment I am using E85 which is 3 to 4 dollars a gallon VS 20 to 22. Whatever you use remember its all designed to dissolve plastic, so it can and will kill you and or you loved ones and pets, and or house if handled wrong. Be Safe and keep on Treking.
I jumped into resin 3D printing without a lot of research. I saw the quality difference between FDM and Resin and chose the latter. Tonight was session 1 (failed) and session 2 (failed). I ended the night cleaning and replacing uncured resin back into the bottle as I didn’t want to leave it over night, used a crap load of paper towels, and a few gloves, and had the EXACT same thought about needing an open trash can. I love the trays, tubs, and table liners. This is the type of setup I plan use. Thank you for this video for expediting my efforts to a clean and organized work area. You rock!
Wow..... I've been FDM printing for about three years now and am finally looking into SLA... And this was a whole new level. I had NO IDEA it was that much work! I'll never complain about FDM maintenance again, there's more to do in between each SLA print than I've had in total between my Ender 3 Pro and CR-6 SE during these few years.
Hey Michael, great job on these videos. I can tell your channel is going to blow up. Great delivery, production, and full of valuable content. I'm looking forward to seeing more!
I find that using warm/hot IPA or water (contaminated or dirty) close to or just above body temp 98F or 36C. I have also had it work well at around 80F or 27C. You soak the parts in this liquid to soften the resin and most importantly the supports. Warm resin causes the supports to break away from the part, and prevent the supports from chipping off and leaving pot marks all over the part. Once the supports are removed you can use normal room temp IPA to clean the part and a small knife; razor, xacto, or hunting doesn't matter as long as it is sharp and you can use it safely; to gently cut the small residual bumps away from the surface leaving you with a much better surface finish that is flush with your final surface. A heated ultra sonic cleaner works amazing for this, as while it is warming the part, it cleans it to, so that once supports are removed you can rinse the part or let it air dry; trim the bumps and quickly rinse with water or a little clean IPA (to remove any residual debris from fine trimming) and go straight to curing. As for other tips: I found that when I was getting bed adhesion issues, that it was very helpful to wipe or coat the underside of the build plate in a very light coating of resin before starting a print. Usually by dipping my finger in the vat, and smearing it on. This ensures that the build plate is coated completed with no trapped air or thin spots beneath it for the first layer. You can use a brush to do this as well, and I usually do this with the build plate off the unit, but above the vat, so that the resin drip stay in the vat. And to those that would say, wouldn't your get things dirty. No I don't. Like Nerdtronic, I take care of everything that needs two hand prior to interacting with resin at all. Even then when I do, I only use one hand to do so, so the other is clean to the chance of contaminating anything. I hope this helps out others in some way.
New channels just take a while to get traction. As a content creator it's easy to get discouraged and want to give up. It takes so much work to make a good video. But your comments help! Should have more content coming out soon. I have like 4 videos in progress at the moment.
I get very anxious when I see some youtubers not following the basics or washing parts on the sink. The way they are showing will make 3D print an enviromental and public health issue! Thanks to put it all clear! This should be a must see before buying resin printers.
This should be a "MUST SEE" video before planning to buy a 3D Resin Printer or before operating it... Thanks for watching this video beforehand... You're of great help
A lot of people say never touch the FEP screen with anything except a silicon spatula or similar because it's like a Teflon coating that can be damaged causing sticking, also the IPA on it is supposed to be bad Also? I'm not sure but this advice I have seen a lot of people agree with makes sense.
Hi Michael! Great job! Thanks for the really useful tips, especially about recycling dirty IPA! I didn't know what do with my big plastic jar of a dirty IPA before I watched your video, you really helped me! The only issue is that the sun is a rare guest here where I live, but probably I could cure it with my UV curing station.
I have my printer in a large tub on top of a table cloth. I print in a spare storage room with carpet, so since everything is in a big tub, if I spill there's not chance of anything getting on the carpet. The silicone matt is in the tub as well so its easy to keep the tub clean. I only print small scale stuff, so an ikea LACK table is large enough to hold everything, and if I need to break things down to put it in storage, it has a small footprint and is easy to get fully cleaned and put away.
Thank you for the tips. I've just started printing with resin, though I've been using FDM printers for years. The cleanup of the resin prints has been intimidating and actually prevented me from even setting the printer up. I feel a lot more comfortable now in maintaining a clean work area. :)
I've probably watched this 4 times now and finally did my first print last night. The system works great, I just need a little more practice and I think I'll get it more streamlined but overall it went well. Thanks for the pointers!
Thanks for another great video, great tips and will help. I can give you guys a awesome tip Don't use those plastic scrapers, they damage your FEP., run your finger over the edge of th scrapper and you see. Get yourself a silicon spatular ( egg spatula/flipper) it works great, is easy to clean and will not damage your fep. Also don't use paper towels to dry the vat , it scratches . Ger some microfiber wipes (fibre optic wipes ) . These will not scratch your FEP and are cheap.
Wow recycling IPA is an amazing trick! Hadn't heard of that before. I've got 2 incredibly dirty jugs pushed to the back of my print station. this is going to be very satisfying.
Here's how I tried to show people in the lab to understand how easy it is to contaminate stuff while I was the biosafety officer: Buy some UV-reactive powder, put it on your gloves and go about your routines. Then, take a UV flashlight and see where you can find bright spots. Kinda like in CSI when they search for blood. Fun experiment and it will raise awareness. While I understand you want a reminder to keep one hand clean, I find the cleaning up process or uncured prints to require both hands because they can easily move around or even slip out of your grasp. I also remove most of my supports before curing. Fantastic presentation and information though!
I'm just doing research on buying my first 3D printer and I want it to me resin. Your video is very helpfull and also makes me think twice if I want this in my life. Seems a lot just to be able to print some stuff for a side hustle.
Once you get the routines down it's no big deal. Like making an omlet. It's not without a little mess and you have to be careful not to burn yourself. But in the end it's not that big a deal.
My best tip is to have a jug of soapy warm water for when you need to clean your gloves (which is aaaaalways). Simply dip the gloves into IPA/Mean Green, denatured alcohol (me) or whatever, rub your fingers around slightly, and then dip your gloves into the water. Now they're clean!
Thanks! This is well organized, helpful information which I really appreciate as a beginner. A lot of this is common sense stuff, but it was great to see how you actually do each of these steps on camera rather than just hearing someone say, "clean this with isopropyl alcohol". I can appreciate that a lot of these steps don't need to be shown in every video or once you get to a higher level; but thank you for taking the time to detail all of this for those who are just starting out!
Thanks for the awesome guide. This was my quick reference Bible for getting started with resin 3d printing, and it couldn't have been easier or more fun.
This is a great video. I print fdm and i want to step up with resin, but it seems a pain. A little print result in lot of time cleaning, and "waste" of resin and IPA. Btw you're super organized and i like it.
Your video was easily one of the best intro guides. I was trying to watch a bunch of videos and was getting lost on what I needed to do. This was a perfect combination of important information. Really appreciate the break down at the end too.
Just getting into printing and trying to locate helpful information on the process. This video, hands down, has been the most informative process-wise. Seems like it is taboo to do step-by-step informational videos. Thanks!
Thanks for this video! As someone who is about to start printing with resin, I find this safety guidelines very informative. I'll do my best to apply all of them
Nerd-dude,I first needed to build a resin odor mitigation system and your vid on that was super. Then, knowing that I am weeks away from launching my 3dP workspace, I checked this vid out. These tips are invaluable and you made it very simple and straightforward, which is what noobs need. Thanks and I will be following you as I get going with digital sculpture on Zbrush and my soon to be, Saturn printer. Ciao
I make stuff with poured polyurethane resins and started to look for information about 3D printing. Your videos are packed with practical information and great ideas. Really helpful. Thanks!
I can’t express how much I enjoy a guide delivered from a well spoken individual with more than a dozen words in his/her vocabulary. I am not a grammar nazi.... however, for some reason when somebody recites a sentence that is not very well thought out, I can’t help but fixate on it for a moment, and I miss the information that follows. 😒 anyway... thank you for this. I like having an upper hand and being prepared. Btw that disposal method for used resin is simple and ingenious. I was prepared to add more buckets 🙄 the best ideas are the “duh, why didn’t I think of that?” Ideas One question (to anyone knowledgeable): Do you have a cure station or uv flashlight to further cure your prints? And or do you deem them necessary in the finishing process? I subbed 👍🏼
Thanks for the sub. I have a UV lamp. I used to set it up in a cardboard box with reflective foil taped to the inside. Now I just hold it over the parts for a few min, flip and repeat. Natural light from a nearby open window helps to cure it slowly also.
Part 11... instead of throwing out the blob after purifying the IPA, place the blob into a mold to create a shape or model you wish to recreate. I create hexagons for my war game with the blob which solidifies in the sun. This way I recycle the IPA and upcycle the blob into a desirable items essentially saving money and creating less rubbish.
awesome idea
how do you put the hardened resin blob in a mold? isn't it too late by then?
@@IaidokaNC He's talking about the wet blob.. before it cures.
This is a great idea. I'm going to be building a diaroma soon. Maybe I can print a mold of trees, lumber, or blocks for the diaroma and press it in.
Same, the blob is almost like epoxy putty.
Ugh... I’ll stick with FDM printing thank you.
5:00 If you make the Stuff too difficult you'll start skipping it....DAMN this is a life changing tip right here! :O
Haha. One person defines something as laziness. Another person defines it as optimization or efficiency.
They are usually old or willfully ignorant.
Ive found that the same applies to a lot of things in life. Like if you buy a fancy new panini toaster and stick it in the back of a cupboard as well as choose a hard to clean model, you'll end up never using it because even taking it out is a hassle, nevermind cleaning it.
Early in my career I worked with a guy whose motto was "Make the right thing the easiest thing and you'll never have to correct anybody".
This be freakin' legit. 💯🤣
As a newbie to resin printing, I found the warnings about how toxic the resin is overwhelming. You helped make sense of all the noise and save me a few dollars in the process. I can now print as much as I want, without worrying about my family's health or the impact that I'm having on the environment. Thanks for the great video.
Got my printer.. i am gonna hold on to print before all the safety stuff ready. Your video helps clarify all the stuff needed.
You've got a really nice system here, lots of great ideas! All my toys are sticky...
Thanks! The system has some flaws. The longer I print the stickier things get also :)
I LOVE your video on this man. So rare to find a Ph.D. chemist talking about safety concerns with printer resins.
@@mr702s Well Goobertown Hobbies is the PhD not me. So go check out his channel.
Goooooobs!
It's true, I did genetics (and I never had a cross contamination), and pretty much everything you do is lab grade, except not having a fume hood, which tbh is overkill at home.. I haven't bought a 3d printer yet but I estimate it would take me perhaps 12 to 15 print goes before I wasn't really conscious of the steps..
This mans editing game is on point
This is one of those videos that you don't think you need to watch until you've watched it, great tips! Nice Grand Theft Auto font too
I just got a Photon S yesterday. I was just about to set the printer up and just go for it before I saw this video. Thanks, I needed to cool my jets and prep more!
I was thinking about going into resin 3D printing... But I wasn't aware of all the post processing and precautions that it implied. Thank you for this video. Guess I'll go the FDM route.
Your suggestion to use silicone pet mats just saved my bacon. Thanks! I lost about 250g of resin, but the mess was contained.
I don't think about videos like this until it's too late! Thanks for this contenta
Haha!
Your videos have more information and production value than anything even the manufacturers of 3D printers can do and they have millions of dollars to produce this kind of stuff.
I just bought my first resin printer. I haven't even unwrapped it yet. I'm just gathering ideas on operations, and you've just become my go-to-guy. I'll be watching everything I can.
This guides are great for new people wanting to enter this world, you have help me a lot, come back😢
i just got a 3d printer and by far this is the best video ever (regarding SLA printers)
For Aussies,
I am using the Silcon Pet Feeding mats from Kmart.
The large is 60cm x 40cm, so covers a large area.
I have a few of them across my work bench and they work great.
They are 10 bucks at the time of writing this. They also sell a smaller version for 5 bucks.
IPA is expensive and hard to come by especially with Covid.
Alternative is Mythelated Spirits, it's way cheaper. However can make clear resin milky colour and can leave white blotches on cured items if not washed off correctly.
Resinaway from Monocure is great as well and locally sourced.
This is one of the more informative channel out here regarding resin printing, you need a tons more of subscribers. People need to get this info.
Wow thanks. It’ll happen. Just takes time.
What a useful tips you are giving with your videos!
Just stuck with your channel. Thank you for sharing with a community!
Welcome! Thanks for the kind words.
Jesus the amount of care that it takes to own a resin printer is insane, I got a headache just watching this :S
You really should start making molds for your waste blobs. You could very easily cure them into usable shapes.
This is one if not the best video out there on how to handle the post processing of resin prints. It really helped me get started after years of FDM printing and moving onto to SLA. Great work!
Thank you for this. Three years later this video is still helping newbies like me. I just purchased what will likely be the first of a few Resin printers. Currently buying lots of other things to go along with it and you have made me realize some things I was not considering.
Things I’d add to this:
1- Don’t use disposable gloves. Buy oversized, thick, lined nitrile gloves. You can slide them on and off easily, and resize them “forever”. MASSIVE environmental win, and user savings.
2- Get one of those full sized plastic face masks (popularized during Covid). You don’t want resin bits snapping off and hitting you anywhere in the face.
3- Get rid of the plugs on the resin bottles right away. They’re only necessary for shipping and they cause waste (using a paper towel every time to take them in and off).
4- Think your setup through. I have a wire rack that my printers sit on, but also it’s where I can put hooks and magnets on for gloves, a roll of toilet paper or paper towels, the funnel, scrapers, etc.
Screenshot this! Thanks!
Don't re-use gloves. That's how you learn what resin tastes like.
Source: I know what resin tastes like.
DO NOT re-use gloves man
I seriously hope no one takes #1 seriously.
Using a few extra gloves isn't going to destroy your precious environment, it's just going to be more effective at protecting you from burns, allergic reactions, cancer, and probably a host of other problems.
You have obviously invested deep thought and reasoning to come up with these tips. Well done!
Thanks!
Excellent advice delivered in a friendly, straightforward way. Finally found someone who knows how to do a proper "tips" video. Great work.
Thanks again.
Glad I found this. I've been making a mess so far, tired of itchy wrists! Lol.
Just got a 3d resin printer for Christmas. This channel is a godsend for beginner guidance. Thanks for producing these!
so much common sense in this video! well done
im currently doing research on what is required in owning a resin printer. this video and the resin printing for beginners have been very enlightening, thankyou
This is really good information for anyone starting their adventures in resin printing!
My own homegrown "chemical lab" printing area and approach to printing is very similar to this (and even then there were a few good pointers that I hadn't thought of, like recycling IPA for FEP cleaning), but BOY, would I have saved so much time, money and grief had I watched this first! xD
you need more view, this is super helpful!
awesome tipps. safety always first. always! dont be lazy. dont get into routines :) thx for your advises.
I haven't found any more accurate and structurized instrucions on using resin filament. It is good if you add something like 'for beginners' in the title of your video.
Seriously the best video I saw on getting started with Resin Printing. Great tips, very helpful.
Wow thanks. I'll be doing another video next month for complete noobs wanting to get started.
I’ve been reaching for the goal to do 3d printing and eventually silicone casting on a commercial level to answer to my local community’s needs. This video has helped me understand just how tedious such an endeavour is, even on a hobby level. Your video has been not only informative, but humbling. You have my respect, my dude
It’s really easier than it’s made out to look once your understand the basics
@5:00 If you make the Stuff too difficult you'll start skipping it..have a reasonable respect for the dangers
man you are on fire
great tips in this video
Really nice and educational video. Thanks for posting. Started my first print this morning....
Glad it was helpful! Have Fun!
I use most of these in one form or other. I appreciate the delineation between reasonable/practical and the practice of "Safety".
The primary difference between our setups is that I have a ultrasonic cleaner large enough for the biggest print volume my printer can fill plus a little extra. This means it can fit my vat and build plate too. I don't have to brush anything. Ever. This requires a LOT of IPA (~2.5 gallons) to fill but due to its large volume there is no reason to delineate between "clean" and "dirty" IPA. For storage I used a 5 gallon bucket with sealed lid available from any hardware store. The Ultrasonic cleaner has an integrated drain valve which I have plumbed to pour directly into the bucket after use. A filter can be used to catch any supports, blobs, etc. A bonus to this setup is that I can simply put my hands in the cleaner should I get any resin on them. I don't know if I have more fumes than other setups given the surface area of my IPA is consistent and unchanging (vs. multiple large & small storage containers) but it is being agitated for the duration it is on.
I do not use paper towels to wipe clean or even set the FEP on. Too much lint and abrasive properties. Lint free alcohol wipes if needed and only after an ultrasonic dip and air dry.
Another difference is that I exclusively use large metal razor blades to clean my build plate (~4 inch blade with handle found in any paint aisle). I'm not sure why but to date I've had more issues with excellent adhesion than I have with poor adhesion. I've had poor experience with putty knives. For me they don't cut it and catching a corner or edge will scratch/gouge the plate.
Just some of my thoughts/experience. Thank you for BulgeBuster; I'm testing it out currently.
Thanks for the comments!!
Hi! I just wanted to say thanks. This is probably the most well-made video on the topic of resin handling on UA-cam.
Wow, thank you!
If only i have seen your vedo before doing a mess in my desk, mouse and keyboard pouring resin out of the VAT :(, now it won't happen again Thank you it really helps a lot
Good Channel and advise Michael. I am setting up a larger and more ventilated room for the cleaning process. I use and actual paint respirator mask with charcoal filters that are made for automotive painting. It might be overkill in the slightest, but hey you only have one set of lungs, eyes, fingers etc.
As a Youngster in the U.S. Navy and then Army from 1983 to 2000 I painted aircraft, worked on Diesel engines and hydraulic equipment, and worked with large batteries and just in general did a lot of jobs where I was using MEK, Naphtha, and or had my hands around and in Hostile Chemicals and or literally Sh-T. My last military job was plumbing in the Nat Guard.
I was both good and bad about using proper protective equipment. at 18 and 19 and those first years we painted F4's and F14's with Polyamide paints, and Polyurethane paints.
The old chiefs and petty officers would frequently be painting out on the ramp and hold the gun in their right hand, and their res mask in their left. When they sprayed they would hold up the mask to cover their face and paint. then when they were done applying the layer/coat/area they would pull the mask away. IMHO this was fine, and it worked. The stupid thing was that we were painting the aircraft outside in a ramp area, and had all kinds of personnel working on aircraft 30 to 300 feet in an area. We also painted the polyamide out on the Carrier in the hanger bay while we were underway.
As I got older I got more and more friendly towards the idea and use of the Protective Equipment. Especially like you commented on when It gives you headaches and such. That means its getting inside your brain, through your lungs, and if its getting there, then its getting into your kidneys and liver, etc.
Now I am a cheapskate also, LOL. And I dont like paying 21 dollars for a gallon of Alcohol so, yea, I am going to try to stretch its service life. So I like the info as you are about 4 or 5 years ahead of me on using these chems, and been 3D SLA printing. We have been doing it for 2 years now on a limited basis for custom archery bow parts, and I really haven't been in on it to much. I was making the custom strings, and my Bus Partner was 3D printing.
Now that we are delving into Custom Chess pieces and I am designing large Star Trek models from the original series I have suddenly found myself crash coursing in 3D printing.
We have 2 Creality Ender Weed Whacker String melters, which I have little use for so far. I am impressed a little about how much smaller they can make res lines now though.
I jut bought a Anycubic M3, and M3 Mac about 2 months ago, and I have been printing for about 5 days now on the first test parts for a Romulan Warbird from The Original Series of Star Trek.
I mixed E85 with Denatured Alcohol, and I also used strait E85. The first print parts have errors in them and are being printed so I can adjust the design until I can get them to print into parts that I can use as model parts. I see no difference in the effect of this cleaning method other than #1 the 85 is more toxic in the fume department, but not by much. It does contain Gasoline so that means If I breath the fumes, it is not just alcohol, but gasoline also. We all know, or should know that breathing, snorting, huffing gasoline is not good for the human body, and I mean a big (NOT GOOD FOR THE HUMAN BODY). I had dumb ass friends in the 5th and 6th grade that huffed gasoline and even at that age I couldn't believe how stupid they were, and or how dumb that was.
My father and uncles and typically mechanics back then used to wash oil and engine dirt off of their hands with gasoline. I did to in the 1970's because it was a common practice. Then when I got into the Navy I discovered Go-Jo and Mean Green, and things that didn't make the nerves in your hands tingle because of osmosis.
Anyway I didn't intend to write an essay here. I just wanted to point out. Safety First. Yea. Share the advice like Michael here, Dont Breath fumes unless its Cinnamon rolls in the oven. Dont bathe in IPA/MEK/Gasoline and paint. Gloves are cheaper than new skin. Facemasks are cheaper than new eyes and lips. Personally I think the Covid masks are inadequate for Denatured A/IPA I have been cleaning stuff with and without the germ masks and I come to find that ventilation is key. If the fumes are not there, and or minimal to start with, the better, and like I mentioned before, I am using a paint res grade mask when cleaning. I have some really good cleaning containers I bought from Home Depot that have O rings in the lid so that keeps the evaporation down, and at the moment I am using E85 which is 3 to 4 dollars a gallon VS 20 to 22.
Whatever you use remember its all designed to dissolve plastic, so it can and will kill you and or you loved ones and pets, and or house if handled wrong. Be Safe and keep on Treking.
At 2 yrs old this video is still super informative, useful, and for the most part the info up to date.
You deserver more viewers! As I'm new to 3d printing this was immensely helpful.
Wow, thanks! It'll get there.
Thanks! Just got my first resin printer and this was greatly helpful
Glad it was helpful!
this video is a fantastic how to, literally everything you need to know. thank you so much for this
Thank you so much for this!This video is going to be critical for starting my resin journey.
I jumped into resin 3D printing without a lot of research. I saw the quality difference between FDM and Resin and chose the latter. Tonight was session 1 (failed) and session 2 (failed). I ended the night cleaning and replacing uncured resin back into the bottle as I didn’t want to leave it over night, used a crap load of paper towels, and a few gloves, and had the EXACT same thought about needing an open trash can. I love the trays, tubs, and table liners. This is the type of setup I plan use. Thank you for this video for expediting my efforts to a clean and organized work area. You rock!
Wow..... I've been FDM printing for about three years now and am finally looking into SLA... And this was a whole new level. I had NO IDEA it was that much work! I'll never complain about FDM maintenance again, there's more to do in between each SLA print than I've had in total between my Ender 3 Pro and CR-6 SE during these few years.
It's not that bad. Just a few more safety features. Print, Clean, Post Cure.
Your videos are so detailed its a crime that you don't have more subs.
It'll happen someday 😀
Hey Michael, great job on these videos. I can tell your channel is going to blow up. Great delivery, production, and full of valuable content. I'm looking forward to seeing more!
Thanks for subscribing. I'll be trying to get a new video out by the end of this week.
Hey DeskTop Makes - I just subscribed. Looks like some good stuff.
Awesome! I do a lot of Fusion 360 videos for 3D printing.
This video is pure gold. Thanks man, great job. Will help a lot.
100% Helpful and thank you for the links!
You bet!
Haven't even done a first print yet but when I do guess what 11 things I am instigating! Thank you for a really helpful tutorial. Got my like!
I find that using warm/hot IPA or water (contaminated or dirty) close to or just above body temp 98F or 36C. I have also had it work well at around 80F or 27C. You soak the parts in this liquid to soften the resin and most importantly the supports. Warm resin causes the supports to break away from the part, and prevent the supports from chipping off and leaving pot marks all over the part. Once the supports are removed you can use normal room temp IPA to clean the part and a small knife; razor, xacto, or hunting doesn't matter as long as it is sharp and you can use it safely; to gently cut the small residual bumps away from the surface leaving you with a much better surface finish that is flush with your final surface.
A heated ultra sonic cleaner works amazing for this, as while it is warming the part, it cleans it to, so that once supports are removed you can rinse the part or let it air dry; trim the bumps and quickly rinse with water or a little clean IPA (to remove any residual debris from fine trimming) and go straight to curing.
As for other tips:
I found that when I was getting bed adhesion issues, that it was very helpful to wipe or coat the underside of the build plate in a very light coating of resin before starting a print. Usually by dipping my finger in the vat, and smearing it on. This ensures that the build plate is coated completed with no trapped air or thin spots beneath it for the first layer. You can use a brush to do this as well, and I usually do this with the build plate off the unit, but above the vat, so that the resin drip stay in the vat.
And to those that would say, wouldn't your get things dirty. No I don't. Like Nerdtronic, I take care of everything that needs two hand prior to interacting with resin at all. Even then when I do, I only use one hand to do so, so the other is clean to the chance of contaminating anything.
I hope this helps out others in some way.
Love your videos. Highly informative
I appreciate that!
Just when I thought I knew what I was doing in blender. Awesome stuff thank you 🙂
🙂
very underrated channel
New channels just take a while to get traction. As a content creator it's easy to get discouraged and want to give up. It takes so much work to make a good video. But your comments help! Should have more content coming out soon. I have like 4 videos in progress at the moment.
Just bought my first resin printer, a Saturn S. Found this very useful, thanks for the content. Subscribed.
Great tips for the resin noob. Thanks.
Another newb taking notes on setting up my "factory" and I like the clear, concise and easy to follow video.
best safety video ever. and with the GTA fonts, it's a thumb up guaranteed.
😀 I was playing GTA today actually. Someone was using some sort of invincibility hack. Cheaters! Haha
This was an excellent video !! Can’t wait to see more of your videos !
Thanks a lot for the tips, they helped me out sooo much about how to organize stuff on my first few printing attempts =). Cheers!
I haven't used any of these precautions. and I still survive.
I get very anxious when I see some youtubers not following the basics or washing parts on the sink. The way they are showing will make 3D print an enviromental and public health issue! Thanks to put it all clear! This should be a must see before buying resin printers.
It's SUUPER tempting. I was thinking today about retrofitting a waterpik so it recirculates the water around. It needs more thought.
Liked and saved
This should be a "MUST SEE" video before planning to buy a 3D Resin Printer or before operating it... Thanks for watching this video beforehand... You're of great help
Thanks for the nice words.
A lot of people say never touch the FEP screen with anything except a silicon spatula or similar because it's like a Teflon coating that can be damaged causing sticking, also the IPA on it is supposed to be bad Also? I'm not sure but this advice I have seen a lot of people agree with makes sense.
Hi Michael! Great job! Thanks for the really useful tips, especially about recycling dirty IPA! I didn't know what do with my big plastic jar of a dirty IPA before I watched your video, you really helped me! The only issue is that the sun is a rare guest here where I live, but probably I could cure it with my UV curing station.
Sun is in great supply here in the desert.
This process and prepping guide is amazing! Very well organized and laid out. I'm new to resin printing so thank you!!!
Glad it was helpful!
I have my printer in a large tub on top of a table cloth. I print in a spare storage room with carpet, so since everything is in a big tub, if I spill there's not chance of anything getting on the carpet. The silicone matt is in the tub as well so its easy to keep the tub clean. I only print small scale stuff, so an ikea LACK table is large enough to hold everything, and if I need to break things down to put it in storage, it has a small footprint and is easy to get fully cleaned and put away.
I am just starting out. Excellent tips! Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the tips. I've just started printing with resin, though I've been using FDM printers for years. The cleanup of the resin prints has been intimidating and actually prevented me from even setting the printer up. I feel a lot more comfortable now in maintaining a clean work area. :)
Great to hear. My next video is on getting started in resin printing. So I'll be doing a 101 on all that stuff.
I've probably watched this 4 times now and finally did my first print last night. The system works great, I just need a little more practice and I think I'll get it more streamlined but overall it went well. Thanks for the pointers!
I've become really lax in my resin cleanliness. This is a great reminder of how things should be done. Thanks for posting!
Thanks. My print room gets covered in it eventually also. I need to follow my own advice I guess :)
Thanks for another great video, great tips and will help. I can give you guys a awesome tip Don't use those plastic scrapers, they damage your FEP., run your finger over the edge of th scrapper and you see. Get yourself a silicon spatular ( egg spatula/flipper) it works great, is easy to clean and will not damage your fep. Also don't use paper towels to dry the vat , it scratches . Ger some microfiber wipes (fibre optic wipes ) . These will not scratch your FEP and are cheap.
Great video, new to Resin printing, but this info is still very relevant and helpful, thank you!
Wow recycling IPA is an amazing trick! Hadn't heard of that before. I've got 2 incredibly dirty jugs pushed to the back of my print station. this is going to be very satisfying.
Thanks. I've been thinking about a better solution for purifying IPA. But I am doing a cleaning video soon also.
Here's how I tried to show people in the lab to understand how easy it is to contaminate stuff while I was the biosafety officer: Buy some UV-reactive powder, put it on your gloves and go about your routines. Then, take a UV flashlight and see where you can find bright spots. Kinda like in CSI when they search for blood. Fun experiment and it will raise awareness.
While I understand you want a reminder to keep one hand clean, I find the cleaning up process or uncured prints to require both hands because they can easily move around or even slip out of your grasp. I also remove most of my supports before curing. Fantastic presentation and information though!
Good idea. Just put away all the resin first. I actually glove up both hands now. I still try to keep one of them clean but they're both gloved.
Thank you for sharing. Great Video for me a beginner its super helpfull.
Glad it was helpful!
I'm just doing research on buying my first 3D printer and I want it to me resin.
Your video is very helpfull and also makes me think twice if I want this in my life.
Seems a lot just to be able to print some stuff for a side hustle.
Once you get the routines down it's no big deal. Like making an omlet. It's not without a little mess and you have to be careful not to burn yourself. But in the end it's not that big a deal.
Thanks for the video. Resin printing ca be such a mess! As a beginner, I believe I'll go for FDM.
My best tip is to have a jug of soapy warm water for when you need to clean your gloves (which is aaaaalways).
Simply dip the gloves into IPA/Mean Green, denatured alcohol (me) or whatever, rub your fingers around slightly, and then dip your gloves into the water. Now they're clean!
This was really helpful for me...thank you for taking the time to share this info.
Thanks! This is well organized, helpful information which I really appreciate as a beginner. A lot of this is common sense stuff, but it was great to see how you actually do each of these steps on camera rather than just hearing someone say, "clean this with isopropyl alcohol". I can appreciate that a lot of these steps don't need to be shown in every video or once you get to a higher level; but thank you for taking the time to detail all of this for those who are just starting out!
Thanks for the awesome guide. This was my quick reference Bible for getting started with resin 3d printing, and it couldn't have been easier or more fun.
This is a great video. I print fdm and i want to step up with resin, but it seems a pain. A little print result in lot of time cleaning, and "waste" of resin and IPA. Btw you're super organized and i like it.
And yet still stuff end up sticky with resin.
Your video was easily one of the best intro guides. I was trying to watch a bunch of videos and was getting lost on what I needed to do. This was a perfect combination of important information. Really appreciate the break down at the end too.
This might be one of the best channels I’ve ever seen. Amazing job making everything super clear 👌
This video is pure gold!
I think it is one of the most complete and useful videos on resin printing, thank you very much.
Just getting into printing and trying to locate helpful information on the process. This video, hands down, has been the most informative process-wise. Seems like it is taboo to do step-by-step informational videos. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent content, thank you ! It is well worth going in details through each step !
Thanks for this video! As someone who is about to start printing with resin, I find this safety guidelines very informative. I'll do my best to apply all of them
Nerd-dude,I first needed to build a resin odor mitigation system and your vid on that was super. Then, knowing that I am weeks away from launching my 3dP workspace, I checked this vid out. These tips are invaluable and you made it very simple and straightforward, which is what noobs need. Thanks and I will be following you as I get going with digital sculpture on Zbrush and my soon to be, Saturn printer. Ciao
I make stuff with poured polyurethane resins and started to look for information about 3D printing. Your videos are packed with practical information and great ideas. Really helpful. Thanks!
Awesome, thank you!
I can’t express how much I enjoy a guide delivered from a well spoken individual with more than a dozen words in his/her vocabulary. I am not a grammar nazi.... however, for some reason when somebody recites a sentence that is not very well thought out, I can’t help but fixate on it for a moment, and I miss the information that follows. 😒 anyway... thank you for this. I like having an upper hand and being prepared. Btw that disposal method for used resin is simple and ingenious. I was prepared to add more buckets 🙄 the best ideas are the “duh, why didn’t I think of that?” Ideas
One question (to anyone knowledgeable): Do you have a cure station or uv flashlight to further cure your prints? And or do you deem them necessary in the finishing process?
I subbed 👍🏼
Thanks for the sub. I have a UV lamp. I used to set it up in a cardboard box with reflective foil taped to the inside. Now I just hold it over the parts for a few min, flip and repeat. Natural light from a nearby open window helps to cure it slowly also.
Excellent guidelines I will be using your system as I start my 3D printing journey
I have to admit that a year later there are a lot of sticky things in my printing room. I hope to make a v2 of this video in 2021.
Thanks a lot! I am just getting ready to buy a resin 3d printer, I am preparing a stand for the printer. 🤩
hi pch, is it possible to buy the printer from our factory ?