easier tip. use the resin you printed the model with, fill a needle bottle with the resin. you can squeeze the bottle and have complete control in filling the seam. most of the time I can fill the gap so perfectly I don't need to sand.
you can use an old paintbrush dipped in water to smooth out the milliput. It works very similar to wetsanding. You can even get good enough at it to shape the milliput with the brush.
I use Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty. You can use a damp Q-Tip to smooth it. And after it's dry you can also use a damp Q-tip to sand it. You don't need to use sandpaper. Been using it for years on models.
Couple minor thing to add on, using your printer resin is great for shallow surface level filling, but for deeper groves using a clear resin will ensure that even if it seeps deep into the seam and you have a thicker layer it'll still cure properly. Also to get better adhesion with the putty or even the resin, give the surface a sanding so the putty stick to the model easily. Great video as always. Quick question, what do you use to actually glue pieces together? Super glue? Epoxie?
This is why I left the dust in the crack to make stop the resin from flowing down into the crevasse. I find that milliput just likes to stick to me more than anything I want it to stick to. As for flying. Depends on the part but mostly I use superglue thick superglue and let it dry naturally. Epoxie if it’s a heavy load bearing part. I do make a video about what glues I use a while back. If you wanted to see.
@@Groundeffected Amazon sells it, it's amazing, sands like a dream after it dries. But I'm not even sure if it's available in your neck of the woods. But definitely worth checking out.
I bought multiply miilliput a while ago and I'm glad for the reference on how to use it. I'm a visual person, so the instructions on the box were useless. This helps a ton. Thanks!
While I use Milliput for holes and print errors, to fill gaps I use matte varnish. Best hobby hack ever I might add. Just goop some on a fine brush and gently place (goop) the varnish in the gap. Let it dry and you while not filled, the gap is now sealed, so you repeat the process by gently applying more and let dry until the gap is flush. The varnish will always try to find a place to settle, so even if you over brush it will flatten out. Once happy sand and prime as usual. 🤟😎
Hello amazing works a noob question you glued all the pieces together , closed gaps and then prime and paint , or paint by sections and the glue everything , I see some people using diferente techniques
Different for different models. If the part fits nicely into a space that has say clothing or something that hides the seam then I’ll use magnets and paint it separately. But if it’s in a space that is like clear skin and need to be smooth I’ll glue it and fill it.
Great information, even in the comments. I just had my boyfriend print me a 25cm Warhammer model (I'm making a Cthulhu-themed Thousand Sons army, replacing Magnus with a large Cthulhu), and the gaps are atrocious. I wasn't sure how to go about fixing this, but I'm off to my hobby store now for some supplies. Many thanks!
I always use plastic bonder by jb weld epoxy then sand or use Dremel tool . It works for me. That's the thing to find whatever works for you and use what makes you comfortable . Working these models sometimes ain't easy. Happy creating.........
Groundeffected, try using a metal airbrush paint mixer. I just found out tonight it works really well because one end has a miniature spoon and the other side is just straight but it's small enough that you can jam the putting into the cracks.
never tried miliput, seems like a nightmare tbh haha. ive used the resin version a few times though, i use a tiny brush instead of a tooth pick though, just dont accidentally uv cure your brush :P ive heard good things about wood filler though, ive been tempted to try some of that in the future. ive seen people use it on bigger builds like helmets etc.
Don’t cure your brain for sure. To be honest I use a brush too but I rarely use resin to fill only did this time to try show the concept for the video. Mostly I just squeeze some milliput or green stuff into the hole.
The problem I get with sanding is that the surrounding area sometimes has texture like fabrics texture. By sanding you loose that. How would you resolve that?
That’s why I didn’t sand the second figure I did. The first is smooth it’s his vape. The second is covered in texture then you can’t sand. But you could make a texture stamp with green stuff and let that dry then use that to texture the milliput if you wanted to go that far
I’ve done a video with using wood filler. But it’s not as mouldable and 100% milliput and green stuff is much better for textures because you can sculpt it much better you can even make a mold of the texture and press that into the green stuff or milliput to recreate the textures. I wouldn’t ever say that these methods are crap since 99% of modellers use them
@@Groundeffected ive used milliput, that stuff is not that great, in saying that if never used the way that u used it, havent use green stuff, havent for sale over here, all depends on the model, might try it again , but for me wood filler is a hell alot cheaper(i get it for free)
"Don't get resin on the skin". I got my wife a manicure/pedicure for Mother's day and walked in and was like "I know that smell" Anyway the UV gel coating women slather all over their fingers is UV resin. Those women paint it right up to the cuticle.
check out this video for painting model faces ua-cam.com/video/_D7SylAFXRs/v-deo.html
Milliput is great. Can also mix it with water - it flows well and can be smoothed on.
easier tip. use the resin you printed the model with, fill a needle bottle with the resin. you can squeeze the bottle and have complete control in filling the seam. most of the time I can fill the gap so perfectly I don't need to sand.
you can use an old paintbrush dipped in water to smooth out the milliput. It works very similar to wetsanding. You can even get good enough at it to shape the milliput with the brush.
I use Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty. You can use a damp Q-Tip to smooth it. And after it's dry you can also use a damp Q-tip to sand it. You don't need to use sandpaper. Been using it for years on models.
THIS is the video I've been looking for!
I always struggled with milput till you showed how to get it to be more applicable thanks for the tip.
Couple minor thing to add on, using your printer resin is great for shallow surface level filling, but for deeper groves using a clear resin will ensure that even if it seeps deep into the seam and you have a thicker layer it'll still cure properly. Also to get better adhesion with the putty or even the resin, give the surface a sanding so the putty stick to the model easily.
Great video as always. Quick question, what do you use to actually glue pieces together? Super glue? Epoxie?
This is why I left the dust in the crack to make stop the resin from flowing down into the crevasse. I find that milliput just likes to stick to me more than anything I want it to stick to. As for flying. Depends on the part but mostly I use superglue thick superglue and let it dry naturally. Epoxie if it’s a heavy load bearing part. I do make a video about what glues I use a while back. If you wanted to see.
Great video! I’ve always struggled with Milliput, didn’t know this trick with alcohol, that makes it easier!!! Thanks a lot for the tip!!
I hope it helps. You can use water too. But it evaporates the liquid faster if you use alcohol.
@@Groundeffected I’ll give it a try, for sure! Keep the good work!!
Aves Epoxy works wonders on big gaps. You can smooth it with water. Works good on textures too.
Gonna have to buy some to try it. Since everyone seems to be using it!
Great suggestions, especially the alcohol with Milliput! Never thought of it!
Man it makes such a difference!!
epoxy sculpt works wonders too! and you can smooth it out with water, works wonders on gaps.
I haven’t seen that in the shops I’ve been in yet. I want to try some. I’d assume it’s very similar?
@@Groundeffected Amazon sells it, it's amazing, sands like a dream after it dries. But I'm not even sure if it's available in your neck of the woods. But definitely worth checking out.
@@Groundeffected *apoxie sculpt my bad! Got too excited.
Thanks - great video as always = always love your intros
You been drinking the paint water too? Hahaha thanks for watching man!
I'm glad I watched this video. I want to get a tool like you used.
Hope it helped you with some ideas dude.
The video I've been dying to watch!!! Thank you!!
I hope it delivers what you needed!
I bought multiply miilliput a while ago and I'm glad for the reference on how to use it. I'm a visual person, so the instructions on the box were useless. This helps a ton. Thanks!
While I use Milliput for holes and print errors, to fill gaps I use matte varnish. Best hobby hack ever I might add. Just goop some on a fine brush and gently place (goop) the varnish in the gap. Let it dry and you while not filled, the gap is now sealed, so you repeat the process by gently applying more and let dry until the gap is flush. The varnish will always try to find a place to settle, so even if you over brush it will flatten out. Once happy sand and prime as usual. 🤟😎
That's a great idea!
tjrs au top tes conseils et tes vidéos l'artiste
merci beaucoup j'espère que vous avez trouvé une utilité
Excellent video once again bud.
Thank you my dude.
Very helpful thanks
Glad to hear! Thanks for watching!
Can you try out Smooth On products? Like their free form sculpt? Or their black epoxy putty
I use Apoxy Sculpt as a filler. Similar to Greenstuff but easier to work with, sand and dries nicely.
That’s the problem with green stuff it doesn’t sand as well as milliput does. I want to try apoxy sculpt
Great video thank you now to find some of those brushes you used. Keep it up loving the content!!
Hello amazing works a noob question you glued all the pieces together , closed gaps and then prime and paint , or paint by sections and the glue everything , I see some people using diferente techniques
Different for different models. If the part fits nicely into a space that has say clothing or something that hides the seam then I’ll use magnets and paint it separately. But if it’s in a space that is like clear skin and need to be smooth I’ll glue it and fill it.
Great information, even in the comments. I just had my boyfriend print me a 25cm Warhammer model (I'm making a Cthulhu-themed Thousand Sons army, replacing Magnus with a large Cthulhu), and the gaps are atrocious. I wasn't sure how to go about fixing this, but I'm off to my hobby store now for some supplies. Many thanks!
Hmmm just slap some blue tac to fill the biggest of the gaps and put some resin over it and cure it again haha works for me
I always use plastic bonder by jb weld epoxy then sand or use Dremel tool . It works for me. That's the thing to find whatever works for you and use what makes you comfortable . Working these models sometimes ain't easy. Happy creating.........
Only thing, I don’t think that’s going to work on resin though?
Yes it does lve been using it for 3 years resin is all I ve ever used. It bonds to plastic resin is plastic. Happy creating.............
Hello! Nice video, do you know how can I fill gaps using clear/transparent prints? Thank you
Great video
I missed this one🤦♂️🤷♂️. Great stuff here!
Haha well you got a spare video as a surprise then.
Groundeffected, try using a metal airbrush paint mixer. I just found out tonight it works really well because one end has a miniature spoon and the other side is just straight but it's small enough that you can jam the putting into the cracks.
Hi, I want to say great work keep it up. i want also to ask in what scale are u printing is it 1:6?
This one is 1/6th I print many different scales. Mostly 1/6th though
Have you tried the resin and baby powder trick?
No I haven’t.
@@Groundeffected Any resin of your choice, it can also be water or acrylic resins + mineral filler to make the consistency thicker like aerosil.
Ah! A use for the resin dust!
Saves having to clean it off the desk too haha
never tried miliput, seems like a nightmare tbh haha. ive used the resin version a few times though, i use a tiny brush instead of a tooth pick though, just dont accidentally uv cure your brush :P
ive heard good things about wood filler though, ive been tempted to try some of that in the future. ive seen people use it on bigger builds like helmets etc.
Don’t cure your brain for sure. To be honest I use a brush too but I rarely use resin to fill only did this time to try show the concept for the video. Mostly I just squeeze some milliput or green stuff into the hole.
I used wood filler on my Darth Vader from Wicked's Star Wars Patreon cause the cape had huge gaps, seems to have worked pretty well.
@@rageftw capes are notorious for gaps!!
The problem I get with sanding is that the surrounding area sometimes has texture like fabrics texture. By sanding you loose that. How would you resolve that?
That’s why I didn’t sand the second figure I did. The first is smooth it’s his vape. The second is covered in texture then you can’t sand. But you could make a texture stamp with green stuff and let that dry then use that to texture the milliput if you wanted to go that far
@@Groundeffected Classic "why didn't I think of that" moment for me there. Great idea.
which resin are u using
I use nova 3d and mix a bit of tenacious to make it a bit more stronger
My problem was the robe on luke skywalker had texture
Personally, I would use gorilla glue gel and a trowel or a popsicle stick, or a micro sized flat head screw driver.
Sure. We all have our ways, thanks for your contribution I’m sure someone may find it helpful too. I’ll look into that technique
if print has texture all those methods are crap, tried abit of wood filler putty, seriously its the best and eased way
I’ve done a video with using wood filler. But it’s not as mouldable and 100% milliput and green stuff is much better for textures because you can sculpt it much better you can even make a mold of the texture and press that into the green stuff or milliput to recreate the textures. I wouldn’t ever say that these methods are crap since 99% of modellers use them
@@Groundeffected ive used milliput, that stuff is not that great, in saying that if never used the way that u used it, havent use green stuff, havent for sale over here, all depends on the model, might try it again , but for me wood filler is a hell alot cheaper(i get it for free)
car painters epoxy filler. The fine one.
I will look into that.
I use wood filler
Few people have said that I’m gonna have to give it a try
@@Groundeffected its easy to clean with water and qtips when its not fully dry. Sands well and dry fast! :D
I apply it with qtips, my finger or toothpick!
Using a clear resin to fill a gap make you sure to cure through it self
glooooooooooooves
Had none at the time dude
"Don't get resin on the skin". I got my wife a manicure/pedicure for Mother's day and walked in and was like "I know that smell" Anyway the UV gel coating women slather all over their fingers is UV resin. Those women paint it right up to the cuticle.
God damnit Phillip
Phil got you beat. Seems you’re slacking a bit….
First
Take that contrast and Posey!
@@Groundeffected making the most of my work hours 😂