Відео

thanks so much! i was worried about the fact my helldiver helmet wasn't going to fit on my printer.

Crazy Cool

Amazing Job

No tiene sentido esta prueba ya que las gamas de pintura son diferentes. Golden es acrílico de calidad artist y las Vallejo, en este caso son pinturas para hobby, baratas y con poco pigmento y sin referencia a pigmento usado o resistencia a la luz. Se tienen que comparar las Golden con las Vallejo Fluid Acrylic, quee juegan en la misma liga. No es una crítica a Golden ya que yo las uso en formato tubo para mis trabajos de bellas artes y son de lo mejor que puedes usar.

Vallejo masking liquid. Seal the model prior to applying.

Wait, you can use the pen to cut on the panel line ? The pen is made for scraping ?

good stuff

Are you able to turn off the rgb? I followed the instructions by double clicking the function button but it didn't work.

Thanks for the tutorial! At around 1:58 I saw that the cut was described as dots connected by lines, is there a way to reposition these dots to make the cut more precise?

im new to this. Is priming the same as saying applying "base coat"?

Thanks this is really cool

Q: So how’s the Evolution been behaving ? Any issues show up ?

I will give you access to a Wolverine model from the DPW movie if you will print and paint it. That way, I can use it as a guide lol

Can you recommend some pastels?

I’m working on the Wolverine bottle. Is there a way to contact you with pictures to get your opinion? Also, what about paying the teeth and then putting a black panel line in between each one with a toothpick?

I’m working on the Wolverine bottle. Is there a way to contact you with pictures to get your opinion?

Humbrol Maskol is alot better im sure you would like it alot more check it out

Is this tape toxic???

Just spray with Rust-Oleum 2X Ultra high gloss spray paint. That's what I did and it self-levels. Trick is to use white paint, not black for a more silver look.

I have a 3d resin print that has texture (Darth Vader's body suit), and it has tiny support nipples on it where I removed the supports. I haven't cured it under UV yet, and I was wondering how to remove the little nipples without ruining the texture. Any suggestions?

Very good work! See my printed transform hulk at: studio elotoon

Very helpful thanks

Uhhhhhh you're,. not supposed to scrape it... youa re supposed to overload it, and then just touch it int he spot and allow capillary action to go. Either you are not loading this enough, or you are not thinning the oil out enough....

what size does the eye tower have to be printed or is it just print it straight from the download . thanks in advance

Thank you for this! At 4:07 you basically say that the "ES-P" tool (rotary instead of linear vibrating motion, it can indeed use self-adhesive sponge sanding discs) is more effective at removing more material at the same time, but my question is: isn't the rotary tool too agressive? Because we want to sand and smoothen a plastic surface, not create additional scratches or even dips in it… Currently undecided between these two tools. My specific user case scenario: get rid of the very small yet many pock marks (tiny raised bumps) left after support removal on otherwise smooth (resin) 3D printed objects.

hey buddy, great idea the template for training!👌 Great tutorial!🙌🙏

Hey EV Interesting "pen," thank you for sharing. Take care 😊

Well done

So many useful videos and tips your content. really speeds up the work flow!

I am looking for a faster and better way to get prints ready for paint. For some reason, I always find missed support marks when I start skintones even though I sanded the model with a Gtool, files, ultrasonic cutter, sand paper. It is very annoying that I get to the part where I am halfway done with a model and I find that random layer line, or a partially sanded nub mark that wasn't visible during the sanding step or the first priming step. I usually go back and resend but I feel like I waste a step.

Was great but you lost me on the nail color

ive been enjoying it since my hands shake a bit and i cant get some of the parts on smaller plastic points. great video!

Im having a issue with attaching object to a base. I tried using a boolean to do a union. And with luban, it will show the object cut up but when I print model, there not connected to the base

Also worth to note that Vallejos auxillaries are not good. Use Flow Aid and Slow Dri from Liquitex instead of Vallejos Thinner or Flow Improver, its not even close

GREAT review! This is the first video of yours that I've seen (the PrismEffects paints have very little in the way of reviews!); but now you have a new subscriber! 🎉

Have you checked your zrod on your printer? Lines like that may be a result of it being bent or needing lubricant Great videos!

Thanks for sharing this video. I'm interested in buying the tool and your video made me realize that I don't need to buy the extra heads separately as they're already included 😊 Thanks again 👍🏼

Beg to differ about the resin. I use a toothpick or an old brush to apply very thin layers and cure them one by one with a 405nm wavelength UV torch, that way it cures quickly and allows me to smoothly close those gaps and actually look more natural than with wood filler or miliput, which I also use sometimes but for other purposes.

1000% downloading this to use This should be something EVERYONE has on hand

Oh hell yeah!

Watching what you can do now and this your first video on the channel. What a huge progress you did. That's fantastic! I did only 3 models for now and hope I'll be able to do cool things in few years :)

Hello friend, thanks for this video. I'm also thinking about switching from Fengda to H&S Evo. Can you do a new video with your opinion/use experience after these 9 months? Wish you all the best!

Could not thank you enough!!!! I've been printing and had no idea how to paint teeth and i couldn't really find a vid on it.

Good one Frank!

Thanks

Great video!

What is that putty that you’re using for tape?

Golden here Just started tho. Awesome hobby 💲💲💲

Did the needle always stick out beyond the needle guard on your old cheap brush? I'm pretty sure that should never be the case. What I think happened was you pushed the needle too hard into the nozzle and splayed the opening (widened the nozzle) so now the needle sticks out too far, and it indeed is broken. You would need to get a new nozzle for it to work again.

Dónde lo venden, tienes página o otro médio para la venta