Arctic Accelero Xtreme IV + RX 5700 Pulse Install /w 20C Hotspot Reduction
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- Опубліковано 21 лип 2024
- Reinstalled the Arctic Xtreme IV on my Sapphire RX 5700 Pulse to add VRAM heatsinks & full size thermal pads + modified the install process.**
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Heatsinks are from an Accelero Xtreme III
Silicon Plaster HC910 - Ebay
Kapton Tape - Ebay
100x100x3mm Thermal Pads - Ebay
Thermal Paste - Cryorig CP7 from my CPU cooler
0:00 Removal
2:51 Small heatsink installs
8:01 Finished heatsink install & adjusted for heatpipe clearance(hit pause).
8:07 Thermal paste Cryorig CP7
9:24 Full Thermal pads Rear PCB
10:18 Cooler Installation + Mounting pressure
15:22 How it looks back in the case, Side fan is a Scythe Slipstream 2000rpm, not really necessary, had it on before this 'fix' video & it didnt help.
16:39 ++ - RESULTS, World War Z was backwards sorry
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System Specs:
►i7-6700k@4.5ghz 1.32v /w Cryorig H7 Plus - Delidded /w Conductonaut
►Sapphire RX 5700 Pulse 8gb + Arctic Xtreme IV Cooler
►Drivers: 20.1.1
►2x8gb 3000mhz DDR4 G.Skill Ripjaws V
►MSI Z170A Gaming Pro Motherboard
►Corsair HX1000i
►Lexar NM500 NVMe 512gb OS+Programs
►Sandisk Ultra II 960gb Media+Recording
►Sandisk Ultra II 960gb Games
►Rakk Haliya ATX Case
►Windows 10 Home x64 v1903
►SpecterPro 34" UWQHD Curved Gaming Monitor 3440x1440 100hz
►HyperX Cloud Alpha Headset
►Logitech G403 Mouse
►Tecware Phantom RGB Keyboard
Pic: imgur.com/iLM4ltn
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Includes MSI Afterburner performance overlay, CPU, RAM, GPU, FPS & Frame Latency. System specs in video description, click "show more".
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#Arctic #RX5700 #ArcticXtremeIV
DISCLAIMER: Use the information from this video at your own risk, the reason I shared this process was to show some key differences in my own install, that may help others reduce their hotspot temperatures but may not work for everyone & there is risk of damage due to user error.
**For safety reasons I recommend to actually use the black foam piece for the backplate insulation as its the riskiest part of this method if too much mounting force is applied. - Ігри
**WWZ RESULTS WERE BACKWARDS SORRY, left side is the **_after_** result.*
2:51 - Small heatsink installs
8:01 - Finished heatsink install & adjusted for heatpipe clearance(hit pause).
8:07 - Thermal paste Cryorig CP7
9:24 - Full Thermal pads Rear PCB
10:18 - Cooler Installation + Mounting pressure
15:22 - How it looks back in the case, Side fan is a Scythe Slipstream 2000rpm, not really necessary, had it on before this 'fix' video & it didnt help.
16:39 ++ - RESULTS, World War Z** + Unigine Heaven + Heaven Overclock. **WWZ RESULTS WERE BACKWARDS SORRY, left side is the **_after_** result.*
IDLE /w Chrome open: i.imgur.com/FmI2uLB.png GPU Temp = Hotspot Temp 1:1
Custom bios to fix fan readings ua-cam.com/video/IeufmpL3ixY/v-deo.html ,, I only use Radeon software for GPU control including fans, nothing else as it will conflict with radeon software, apps like afterburner are used for *_OSD only._*
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If you choose to try and copy the 'full length' thermal pad approach with the Xtreme IV do so at your own risk,, if you arent very confident or prepared to risk damage, I highly recommend cutting out a space to use the protective foam piece Arctic includes for the backplate to avoid damage from accidental high mounting pressure. Careful mounting & sufficient thermal paste should be enough to get temps down.
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Heatsinks are from an Accelero Xtreme III
Silicon Plaster HC910 - Ebay
Kapton Tape - Ebay
100x100x3mm Thermal Pads - Ebay
Thermal Paste - Cryorig CP7 from my CPU cooler
Here's the online Xtreme IV(Rev 2) Guide for reference: support.arctic.ac/index.php?p=ax4-rev2 , I used 1mm Washers & Navi uses #2 on the mounting plate.
Solo Heaven uploads since they came out pretty pixelated from the edit :(.
ua-cam.com/video/Z26INFxDfKU/v-deo.html
Run 1: 1750/1750 @ 965mV (stock undervolt)
Run 2: 2000/1750 @ 1084mV
ua-cam.com/video/kwbHQfDvsUc/v-deo.html
2000/1850 @ 1084mV
And here's some Overclocked gaming performance/temps in CoD warzone; ua-cam.com/video/CHobmCNlPYU/v-deo.html *1973mhz1087mV,, //70c core,, 80c hotspot, 78VRAM, 62vrm.*
If you cover the entire backplate with thermal pad, why not get a thinner one? It further improves thermal conductivity
Sup guys,, The main reasoning is the fact the stock backplate uses a plastic insulation film & foam pad for the rear-side of the core components,, since I decided to remove the film & foam pad to try and dissipate more heat from that area(hotspot was my main focus afterall) I aimed for a thermal pad roughly the same thickness to be on the safe side given the mounting pressure in that area, while I did want more surface area with the large pad, I still wanted to prioritize protecting the circuitry the foam pad was covering.
To elaborate a bit further;; a thinner pad would require higher clamping pressure on the backplate for the full-length of the PCB, there's solder points near the power connectors that need a fair amount of clearance(more than 1mm), since you want the clearance to be roughly equal across the entire length of the PCB, you'd be cutting it very close for the rear half of the PCB to use a thinner pad with enough mounting pressure while still keeping the electrical components from piercing the pad and/or touching the exposed backplate.
You could still do it safely with a thinner pad by simply cutting out a section for the foam piece as that would compress just fine without breaking, just be careful of the backplate clamp mounting pressure near the power connectors, or cut a section of plastic film for that area.
The kapton tape was more 'for the sake of it' since I had some lying around than actually being necessary, it's part of the instructions for heatsink installation on the Arctic Xtreme III which is basically the Xtreme IV without a backplate, since direct contact heatsinks have smaller clearance for components that may short out it's probably why they recommend it, probably could have gone without it just fine though.
@@Jo3yization how did you manage to control the fans with msi afterburner?..i connected mine to the mini4 pin gpu header and they run at 100% unless i use the molex adaptor they supplied and either use the 7v or the 12v but i can't adjust the fan speed based on gpu tems as i could before with the blower fan that came with the FE edition..
@BleepBlurp89 Afterburner is just for OSD but not GPU control,,, I don't use any 3rd party software for GPU control as it conflicts with the drivers & can cause all sorts of issues, so everything is set through radeon software. The fans run lower RPM than my stock cooler so the RPM readings are thrown off unless you do a custom bios like I did here; ua-cam.com/video/IeufmpL3ixY/v-deo.html
good job! 👍
Yo, wanted to thank you again for making this. Finished doing the exact same thing on my 5700xt challenger pcb. Overclocked (running Heaven with ultra settings for 15 minutes) getting 55-60 degrees on GPU, and 65-70 on hotspot/memory with all fans basically silent. Used to be stock challenger getting 80-90 degrees on GPU and 110+ across the board with all fans at 100% lol
I used easycargo heatsinks, hy910 thermal glue, and kapton tape off amazon for anyone wondering.
Very nice! Glad to hear it turned out well.
Fantastic result, I've been thinking of doing something similar. Can't decide between this cooler, or rigging a cpu tower cooler in an FT05.
If only the backplate fins spanned the card lengthways it would be perfect, something for Arctic to think about.
Another really good vid. I had a few questions.
1. What were you looking for at 5:20 on the back of the PCB and why did you decide to rotate the heatsinks?
2. When you moved the heatsinks at 8:02 did you have to clean the bottom off or would it be fine with the paste still on there?
3. Also, why did you change to the longer length heatsinks on the right instead of the last ones 8:02?
Yo,,
*1.* Was just looking at where that heatsink//chip placement is on the opposite side to make sure I had the right chip, as the stock backplate does have a heatpad there, you can slightly see the outline of the old thermalpads that were removed, though its not that important with the Xtreme IV backplates full coverage.
*2.* It depends how much it had cured, if the thermal adhesive had set too much I would just clean it off and put some fresh, mine was still setting so it was fine to move.
*3.* The longer heatsinks have a smaller base that fit half of the chip better while being long enough to bridge across and meet at the middle of the 3 VRAM chips, you can see the design is slightly difference and air can pass through them to the PCB underneath, while the heatsinks I originally went with would have a portion of the solid base overhanging onto the PCB and circuitry,, it probably doesnt matter much but I went with the one that looked like a better fit.
At 9:40 you left the power pins exposed? Kinda risky, should have kepton taped em before. This way, the pins could short over the back heatsink if mounting pressure gets high enough for them to get through the pad? Or is it thick enough so you dont worry about it?
The mounting pressure at the GPU-core end of the backplate combined with the thickness of the pads keeps a good 0.5mm+ of clearance for the pins which is why I left it, you'd have to overtighten the power side backplate clamps a heck of a lot to get the backplate to short out on the power pins and the PCB would noticeably start bending well before that,, sorry I should have pointed it out in the vid heheh.
Thanks for the video, do you think classic raspberry heatsinks would be fine? are already sold with a thermal double-sided adhesive, is that enough? thanks
Yes raspberry pie heatsinks are fine as long as they fit, it depends on the adhesive quality, I tried a few with pre-applied adhesive tape on another Xtreme IV install and some stuck well while others fell off after installation which is why I use silicon plaster now.
Does the kit come with all the heat sinks and thermal pads? I'm considering this as I feel my temps could be better, but mostly cause the reference blower is really starting to annoy me 3 months in.
The Xtreme III comes with heatsinks and no backplate, the Xtreme IV comes with backplate and no heatsinks, but you can add Xtreme III heatsinks or similar ordered off ebay to the Xtreme IV installation.
What's the reasoning on using the tape strip on Mosfets? Also I quite like your decision to cover the back with giant heatpad slabs. Only because how the backplate heatsink is designed to have so much surface area you might aswell cover the whole area.
Also makes the installing much easier so good call. That RAM cooler is pretty funny ngl.
Yo, the heatsinks are actually from the Arctic Xtreme III which includes some insulation tape strips to cover 'circuit components' & recommend using it in the VRM area as you can see in the 'preperation' section here: support.arctic.ac/index.php?p=ax3-rev2 - Though _I dont think it's necessary at all_ & just did it for the sake of the instructions, as long as the heatsink has adequate thermal adhesive or tape underneath, it shouldnt matter too much, in-fact given the VRM temps before adding heatsinks, the backplate alone does a good job of cooling them, it was more of a "I had them so might as well" situation; And yeah, my thoughts on the large heatpads are exactly as you describe, big heatsinks = big surface area & heat doesnt travel in a straight line, I put most of the temp drop, especially for the GDDR6 down to better backplate coverage compared to the tiny strips you can see me removing at the start of the vid.
The ram cooler can't mount properly due to the Xtreme IV backplate being so thick, but it still drops ram temps by about 6c under load, the Turbulence III has a better mounting bracket & would fit fine. ua-cam.com/video/9DOiTEcXW3w/v-deo.html
Hello! First I really enjoyed your video! It was very detailed and making notice about the little details.
I have an 5700 XT sapphire reference. And I tried the washer mod and repasting with Arctic MX-4. But It went worse than before. So now I'm looking to get this one the accelero IV. I watched your 2 Vids about how to install it. I'm not really convinced on putting heatsinks in the vrams. You think it's 100% necessary? Or just with the backplate?. And I'm not into the best enthusiast results. But I want my card to be cooler than stock. It's a big improvement using the full thermal pad on the back? Or with the small ones that are included its "OK"? If it's a improvement you recommend how much risk is added when you install it? I mean... It's an expensive card and I really don't want to screw it. And last one. I'm into buying also a tower cooler like an arctic 34. Do I have to move the gpu from the first pcie slot to the second one?. Thanks mate. Sorry for the long text
Thanks,, Even though I installed small heatsinks, I believe the biggest drop in temps particularly for the hotspot was using full-size thermal pads, if anything the risk and ease of installation is lowered when using full length backplate pads and thermal transfer is increased as the PCB does not heatup in a straight line, it spreads in an area( thermal image example: www.geeks3d.com/public/jegx/200901/thermic-imaging-radeon-hd-4870.jpg ).
So ideally the backplate alone should take priority and the standard Xtreme IV does not include any ofr that reason, small heatsinks would only really be necessary if you dont use the backplate at all or just 'for fun' to try and reduce temps a tiny bit further, but definitely not necessary.
The only increased risk is if you over-tighten the mounting screws with a screwdriver and neglected to use the black foam pad that goes on the opposite side of the core. So if in doubt, just cut a hole in the thermal pad to fit the protective black foam and be careful when tightening the backplate mounting clamps to not super tighten them and it should be fine. You can literally see the PCB start to bend if you overtighten the backplate clamps, so you simply back them off at that point and try to follow the mounting instructions carefully.
The mounting procedure instructs tightening screws in a pattern a little at a time, so you would easily catch an overtightened area on the backplate by simply checking as you go, then you can back the pressure off to correct it.
As far as tower cooler & backplate clearance, I'm using a Cryorig H7 with mine and with the backplate installed there's still about half an inch of clearance on my Z170 board that has a x1 PCIe above the standard x16 slot for the GPU, so if you have a lower-end chipset that only has the x16 slot at the top and no 'spacing' for a shorter x1 slot there may be backplate clearance issues.
but on a standard motherboard if you mount the cooler to exhaust to the rear of the case, the clearance should be basically the same, so no issues there.
static.arctic.ac/media/wysiwyg/Products/Freezer_34_eSports_DUO/Technical_data/Freezer_34_eSports_DUO_T04.jpg
images10.newegg.com/BizIntell/item/13c/000u/13c-000u-00005/s3_010616.png
So just as an example, as long as your motherboard has a 'slot' above the GPU, clearance should be fine as the board should be well spaced.
static.techspot.com/images/products/2015/motherboards/org/2015-09-21-product-3.jpg
It's with micro ATX motherboards there may be clearance issues as the CPU area is closer to the GPU slot so the backplate may not fit.
@@Jo3yization Thanks a lot for the detailed response!.
Doing an analysis of the situation I might have an issue. I use a B350f MOBO. And the first slot as you say is the pcie-x16. The backplate I don't think it may have enough clearance from the rams. And if I move it to the second pcie-x16 It probably won't fit well with the intake fans (inwin 101).
If I go with the accelero 4. And not install the backplate and put the original backplate but with the bigger thermal pads as you show. Might be an improvement?
Or if I just mount the accelero but no backplate would be as bad as right now?
Making a custom loop is way out of my budget. And even buying the accelero wasn't at all in my plans. I ain't going to eat in a few days lol. But, I found a liquid aio for gpus in aliexpress and even found a video in UA-cam of someone with an 5700 xt using it an have good temps. It's called frostflow. In the instalation they use heatsinks in the same way as you do. But instead of plaster they go only like with double tape.
What would you recommend bro?
So that all amount of thermal grease outside the gpu surface, on the tiny caps around it, does it help? I always thought would be better to clean those!
I believe it helped, the first time I had a much thinner layer & a 'pump-out' issue in under a week(temps rising after the install), and hotspot was higher, but with the reinstallation I purposely used excessive paste to try & 'counter' the pump-out effect along with larger thermal pads on the backplate, which reduced overall temps, so at the very least it didnt hurt.
are those thermal pads 3mm? I have the same 10x10cm large pads. how is your card holding up? should i go the same way without the plastic protection film? and jus tuse thermal pads everywhere. PS: i will be using copper vga heatsinks for my vrams
3mm on the rear held up great for the time I was running it, they definitely help with ease of installation. 1.5-2mm would be even better you'd just have to be careful with tightening the backplate//GPU core screws if you opt to remove the protective black foam piece.(maybe a test fit first then remove to make sure the pads arent being pierced anywhere.)
Very good video!
Disregard my comment on your other video, I found the 100x100 thermal pads. Do you think it would be ok for me to do this without the heatsinks from the accelero 3? i don't know if ones from ebay would be good or not
Yo,, I've used ebay heatsinks before and they are actually on-par if not slightly better than the accelero 3 heatsinks, basically the same quality imo except you can choose exactly what shapes you might need, but with a Navi GPU I think the backplate alone should be enough combined with the large thermal pads,, using a generous amount of good thermal paste that does not require high mounting pressure & installing carefully make the most difference imo.
I was thinking about getting one of these coolers to replace the blower style cooler on my anniversary edition 5700XT, although from the results I'm not really sure it would be worth the money, I wish there was more options out there for the 5700 series :(, subbed to your channel mate :)
Cheers! I think its worth it especially in regards to fan noise if you've tried an aggressive fan profile, this thing at max(2000rpm- soft fan whoosing noise) vs the Pulse cooler that sounds like a vacuum at 3000rpm is like night & day, I know the reference coolers can be pretty loud too.
But if you dont have any problems with temps/noise as-is, the benefits are less obvious, temps *can* be better if you fiddle around enough like I did, but overclocking will still cause high hotspot(which is normal to an extent). So it depends on your goals, if you simply want raw performance gains, you would be best off selling 2hand and going for a full GPU upgrade imo as the Anniversary 5700XT might still sell fairly well as a collectors item compared to after you've modified the cooler.
Hello again Jo3yization. I just noticed you had another video about the Accelero Xtreme IV . You removed the heatpads (in the other video) from the memory and in this you put some small heatsinks on instead. Is the heatsinks better than the original heatpads?
Hi, in the first video I went with stock installation method to rely on the *backplate only* for memory cooling, which means removing the stock thermal pads to allow direct airflow through the cooler heatsink onto the memory chips, & backplate/heatsink cooling through the PCB on the rear.
>>
On the second video, I added direct contact heatsinks, which need to adhere to the memory upside down once installed, so I went with Silicon Plaster, though most small heatsinks do come with some pre-applied thermal adhesive that may be easier to remove if you ever plan to re-assemble the GPU, they might also fall off, at least in my experience. The stock heatpads are made for the stock cooler heatsink which bolts on with screws & are both too thick and non-adhesive to be worth re-using.
I then swapped the plastic film + small thermal pads on the backplate, for larger thermal pads with the theory that more surface area = better heat transfer, though thinner pads could be used, youd just want to be aware of the mounting pressure especially on the rear of the CPU where normally a protective foam piece would go which I removed, my main objective was to try and lower CPU hotspot temperature while still being cautious. I'd recommend most users to use the foam if they want to go with thinner full-size pads just to be completely safe.
@@Jo3yization Thank you for the explanation! :)
One question. Are the thermal pads are provided like this by the manufacturer, or it's just your idea to put your own?
The pads & plastic film I'm removing at the start of the video are 'stock' from arctic,, it was my idea to try adding 100x100mm pads I purchased online to take advantage of the large surface area of the backplate, as thermal imaging www.igorslab.de/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/01-IR-RX-5700-Gaming.png shows the heat spreads in an area around the VRM & Core, so I figured this would be more effective.
If you had the Accelero Xtreme III, would you reccomend using the same thermal pads you used plus the backplate that comes with the card? Unfortunately I don't have clearance for the huge backplate that comes with the Extreme IV.
It would be upto you, since the stock backplates have a 'fixed' mounting pressure based on the screws used, you don't need thick pads to prevent over-tightening as much compared to the xtreme IV,, though to be honest the 'included' thermal pads with a thin backplate are likely sufficient as there's not as much surface area with a flat piece compared to the fins of the IV, it would be more critical to focus on the heatsinks & make sure they are well mounted,, you _could_ actually mount smaller heatsinks directly on the rear of the PCB for additional cooling as GDDR6 is flipchip design so it can be cooled effectively this way, but it wouldnt be pretty.
@@Jo3yization Thx for the reply. Do the cards come with some kind of thermal pads between the pcb and the backplate already? Putting heat sinks directly on the back of the pcb seems an option, but not sure if I would want to use the card completly without a backplate
Yep some GPUs come with pads under the backplate already, so tbh in your case I would probably try standard install of the Xtreme III with the stock backplate ,, You may have to play with the washers & mounting brace to get the right clearance for it all to fit together properly, and just rely on the small heatsinks to keep the VRM & VRAM cooled.
Worst case scenario if the backplate wont fit just remove it altogether and test without as most included backplates are for aesthetics & can actually trap heat without any fins or active airflow,,, if the VRAM temps seem high then run the fan profile more aggressive as it will actively cool the included small heatsinks you'll put on the chips which should be enough.
>>
There are more extreme options like direct contact heatsinks on the Rearside PCB opposite the VRAM/VRM for additional cooling, but you'd have to be careful installing since, unlike the Xtreme IV backplate that has clamps to hold things down & a thick pad to prevent short circuit,, you'd have to use a thick layer of non-conductive thermal adhesive//glue around any areas with exposed metal//circuitry near your heatsinks and then gently press the heatsinks on-top but this method would be permanent & may cause warranty issues, as removing the adhesive from the rear would risk damage so it would be a 'do at your own risk' thing.
Thermal adhesive pads would be the safer & reversible option and should hold fine since they wont be hanging upside down at least, just make sure they are good quality as cheaper pads tend to come loose over time.
can you link the exact thermal pads you used? I am faced with the choice of using different heat capacities, 2.5 W/mK is nice and cheap, around 5 W/mK is more expensive. Do you think 2.5 is enough? What did you use? Thanks in advance
Just two of these cheap ones; shopee.ph/Thermal-Conductivity-Thermal-Pads-100mm-x-100mm-x-3mm-CPU-i.93949109.1601401776
Thanks for the video! you are the best ! I have subscribed to your channel and for a week I watch your videos! thank you for your efforts and for all the information!
question: could those heatsinks stick with the double adhesive thermocouple?
I have a video card radeon rx 5700 xt and tomorrow comes my Arctic cooler accelerator extreme 4, which I want to mount on the video card, thx again for the video! GOOD LUCK!
Welcome & thanks too! :D
- Double adhesive should work fine as long as it's good quality & has sufficient mounting area, I tried using small heatsinks that include adhesive from ebay on the VRM that only has a small surface area on my old 1070 Ti & it fell off after it was already installed in the case, which is why I only use silicon plaster now as its a bit stronger. A good quality adhesive tape should be OK though.
You can see what the ebay heatsink looked like here, the small blue one, ua-cam.com/video/c7QwBtYyzCI/v-deo.html , they had a black adhesive pre-applied but it did not hold very well. The larger blue heatsinks I put on the memory DID hold fine though, but with the RX 5700 the clearance force us to only use half contact area so a good adhesive tape is a must.
But still, the heatsinks are not critical as long as the backplate is well mounted with thermal pads in the right areas(or full coverage pad).
@@Jo3yization ok..I saw ,, but if I mount the extreme 4 cooler without heatsink is it risky with those temperatures? THX!
As long as it has the backplate, the heatsinks are not critical for good temps, liberal thermal paste and evenly tightening the mounting screws will get the core & hotspot down,, then the VRM is already low with no heatsink,, as well as making sure the rear of the PCB has good thermal pad coverage over the VRAM area,, but still adding some heatsinks to the VRAM can still help a little bit, I believe the large VRAM temp drop was due to more surface area with the thermal pad as the heat will not travel in a straight line through the rear of the PCB from the GDDR6 modules which are flip-chip design(cool better through the PCB),, so I still feel the small heatsinks are not as important considering I wasnt using any at all before.
You can read about GDDR6 flip-chip design here; www.igorslab.de/en/gddr6-memory-temperatures-comprehensibly-explained-and-remeasured-is-amd-doing-everything-right-basics/-
You can also read this *reddit* thread comment section, ; www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/dur3q2/gddr6_memory_temperatures_comprehensibly/ regarding GDDR6, there is a 5700 XT user that reported high 80C temps using VRAM heatsinks with a fan blowing over them on his water-cooled GPU, and he got a great temp drop after applying heatsinks to the REAR of the PCB. So this further strengthens the importance of backplate cooling as that temp drop is very similar to what I experienced after adding these large thermal pads, I dont believe the small heatsinks made much of a difference since they only had half contact as well, which does not justify the 10c temp drop in WWZ testing.
@@Jo3yization
ok.. thanks for the detailed answers, "you are a good friend", tomorrow I ride the Arctic extreme 4 ", I have no patience:))", gave me a friend some heatsink from an Arctic extreme 3, a few, and I also bought heatsinks: WATERCOOL VRAM Heatsinks (12 pieces) 16x13x5mm black, I hope it will be good, it will stick with the double adhesive tape that comes in the package, but again, I appreciate your help!
thx!
Just an update after ~2 weeks with extended gaming sessions(check my latest tarkov vids),, temps are holding stable & there doesnt seem to be any 'pump out' effect that can happen with too much mounting pressure or runny thermal paste, the Cryorig CP7 seems to be working well, Cryorig also advertise CP7 as not needing high mounting pressure to perform so this might be an important bit of information for some people if they have rising temps after a cooler install. CP15 may be fine too, just CP7 is what I had laying around and it seems its perfect for the job. www.cryorig.com/cp.php
If you check the recent Rainbow Six Siege test I did with 1080p competitive settings; ua-cam.com/video/ek-8yMczPgI/v-deo.html , this is where the RX 5700 & Xtreme IV seems to perform best,, you can see the GPU + hotspot sitting at *almost parity* for some of the video & this is 2 weeks after the install, higher voltage & intensive games are the main reasons the hotspot will start to climb 10C+ over the avg GPU temp so it seems even with weaker coolers you might be able to tweak your hotspot down by simply undervolting. 965mV @ 1750mhz is what I'm running atm.
For those wondering about fan control, 3rd party software will conflict with radeon drivers, so I set everything through radeon not afterburner which is *only* used for OSD. I explain how to do a custom bios here if you want to fix your fan readings with the arctic cooler; ua-cam.com/video/IeufmpL3ixY/v-deo.html
Would you say it's safe with just the backplate and no VRM heatsinks?
Yep VRM is fine via backplate, but preferably you want wider or full sized thermal pads to help with the VRAM/GDDR6 temps.
Why no mx-4?
Thx for video! Must put the plastic???
For standard installation yes it's to prevent a short circuit + black foam piece on the rear of the GPU to protect the components from the mounting pressure of the cooler,,,, the plastic must cover any area that does not have thermal pads, and also used as support to evenly balance the backplate when it is tightened down ..
The only safe way around this is to use large & preferably ~3mm thick thermal pad you can see me adding in this video, though I would still recommend cutting a section for the black foam piece to minimize any risk of damage if the cooler mounting is over-tightened.
Hi, will the Genesis Silicon 800 paste hold the small heatsinks?
That looks like a silicon grease & not an adhesive as the HC-910 on ebay, so I dont think it would work sorry. This is the stuff you want; www.ebay.com/b/Thermal-Adhesive/46322/bn_7023256101
hello, Sapphire RX 5700 Pulse, non-XT model, I would be very grateful if you could give information about the thermal pad dimensions.
Hi,, sorry but I dont have the card anymore to give exact VRAM measurements, but for the rear PCB, Two 100x100x2mm thermal pads and for the chip side if you're doing a pad swap, 1mm thickness cut to size should do the trick, I think Gelid GP-Extreme offer one of the best value, 80x40mm pack might be enough but 120x120mm would be the safer purchase even if some is leftover.
Hey, really great videos. I've attempted this using copper heat sinks and the 100x100 3mm pads but I'm now getting a higher hot spot than before - my vrm and vram temps are about the same. For example, when running Unigine Heaven my GPU temp maxes at 60 degrees but the hot spot hits 88 degrees in places! Any ideas on what I could be doing wrong? Previously there was about a 15 degree difference.
Provided you used a good amount of thermal paste(I'd actually recommend more rather than less) the main difference using the same pads would come down to mounting pressure & how far & evenly you tightened the thumbscrews, as well as the fan profile you are using,, here's mine; imgur.com/gallery/jJvyveR
@@Jo3yization Thanks for the reply, is much appreciated. I'll take it apart again tonight and be a bit more generous with the paste! Will report back with how it goes.
Reinstalled and now seeing a reduction in hotspot temp, maxing out at 83 degrees along with the GPU at 56 degrees. Still a big difference between the 2 but is better than what the temps were prior to installing the Xtreme IV. My only concern now is seeing an increase in memory temp which sits at 82 degrees, previously this was 78. I would have expected to see an improvement given that I've added heatsinks and a full size thermal pads. Could it be that the particular pads I've bought aren't as effective?
Hmm I guess its possible, though the pads I bought were just generic ebay ones,, even & higher mounting pressure may still help with VRAM & hotspot further but its hard to be sure how much you've tightened them heh.
Hows case airflow? More heat being dumped into the case from the GPU core could also increase other component temps that would otherwise be lower if the case had a bit more airflow//fans on a higher curve.
@@Jo3yization That's the trouble as there's no real exact way of knowing if the mounting pressure is right. I'll give it a little more pressure and record the difference, worth trying.
Airflow in the case isn't bad, have 3 120mm intakes at the front and 2 exhausts, 1 at back and 1 on top. Case is a Corsair 275r. Will have a play around with fan speeds. Thanks for your time on this!
Which cooler u suggest to 5700 xt asus tuf? Accelero III or IV ?
I'd go the IV with full-PCB thermal pads, the backplate helps overall temps a lot imo, since GDDR6 is flipchip design(meaning it can be cooled rather effectively via the rear of the PCB),, you can also add additional direct heatsinks with the IV, but on the accelero III you cant easily add a backplate later if you arent happy with temps(though you could still add small heatsinks on the rear, it wouldnt look as good as a thick backplate... They discuss the GDDR6 here; www.igorslab.de/en/gddr6-memory-temperatures-comprehensibly-explained-and-remeasured-is-amd-doing-everything-right-basics/
Though it wouldnt be bad to go the accelero III for clearance reasons or if you dont mind the VRAM & hotspot being a little higher, it should still be well within spec as long as the mounting pressure is right imo.
is kapton tape really safe does it have any electrical conductivity im also planning on using it on mine since im not to sure about my skills on putting on heatsink ect but im worried i might short my board or something
Kapton tape is made for insulating circuitry & has a high temperature range, so yep it's safe. I've used it to cover contacts near the bare die of a delidded CPU /w liquid metal and zero issues 2 years later as well.
@@Jo3yization thanks helpfull man im just scared thats all since im doing this mod on my sc2 1080 ti
@@Jo3yization www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MM38WLP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the one im bought is it good enough
@@carlosandres8974 No worries, as long as you take your time and install the backplate properly it should turn out great, the only real issue with adding heatsinks is making sure they 'stick' properly, thus the silicon plaster rather than trusting the free adhesive some cheap heatsinks come with. Just double check your positioning and cooler clearance(test fit) before fixing the heatsinks to the memory area, should be fairly straightforward on a 1080 ti though.
Ah,, hopefully its ok as some reviews there mention poor adhesion, but for the most part as long as you are careful applying heatsinks it shouldnt be a problem even if the tape fell off,, alternatively you could just use a slightly thick layer of silicone adhesive when applying the heatsinks so that they'll be insulated anyway.
Will this after market cooler support the RX 5700 (Non-XT)??
That's what I installed it on xD RX 5700 Pulse Non-XT.
@@Jo3yization oh fcuk sorry, feeling like an idiot now xD
Wait you ran heaven stock but didn't run it with the arctic accelero?
Those are with the accelero. You can see links for some more dedicated testing /w clearer video in the pinned comment; ua-cam.com/video/Z26INFxDfKU/v-deo.html
I doubt you'll see this but...I definitely used a liberal amount of paste, even did multiple layers and a pea drop on top of it. Got fucking amazing temp drops, which I think is mostly thanks to changing the thermal pads too. But like 2 days later, temps started getting a little under where they were previously before repasting. What the ****! Any ideas? I was thinking maybe to use the thermal pads on the gpu die instead of paste? It's mx4 thermal paste btw, not the best but pretty good.
Yo, that's pump-out effect, basically happens when using performance thermal paste on 'bare die' application like laptops or GPUs, the paste thins out at high temperatures away from the hottest points on the die(so higher hotspot). Liberal paste application does minimize it somewhat but overclocking and/or running uncapped fps and heavy benchmarking sessions can accelerate how quickly it happens. One sure-sign that the thermal load is too high for the paste(accelerating pump-out) is the hotspot delta after good application is over 15C under load, a good underclock/undervolt(look at AIB advertised game clocks) should keep the hotspot around 10C or less from the edge temp.
Using cheaper paste the best method is undervolt + fps cap as this can greatly slow down the pump-out speed. Otherwise you'd want to repaste with a higher quality pump-out resistant paste like Thermalright TFX, or Honeywell PTM 7950 phase change pads XFX are using for their China release of the RX 7900 XTX phoenix edition.
Here's a few links to learn all about it;
www.reddit.com/r/thinkpad/comments/vf9jjp/psa_arctic_mx4_is_horrible_for_thinkpads_this_is/
ua-cam.com/video/CCqxE-5Ct3w/v-deo.htmlsi=mJLgBChMzoOkZOMA&t=499
www.tomshardware.com/pc-components/gpus/xfx-unveils-radeon-rx-7900-xtx-phoenix-nirvana-graphics-card-with-phase-change-thermal-pad
smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/review-test-honeywell-ptm-7950-phase-change-pad-vs-thermalright-tfx-paste.19161/
Hope that helps!
@Jo3yization it really does, thanks so much, I greatly appreciate it, and the links! This is a big help because I genuinely didn't know what was going on haha, I'm glad this old gpu is still good and running. I'll make sure to turn off my overclock settings in MSI and try to undervolt a bit to prevent the paste from drying up any faster, until I can get it replaced with some better paste like you described. I honestly didn't even know the type of paste mattered all that much, but clearly it does. Again you've been a huge help, that first link especially is a gpu lifesaver lol.
nice, I have also reduced GPU temperature by water cooling on CPU - for thirty years they still use same crap air flow of hot air on RAM and GPU from CPU.
Should the backplate be enough? Or do i need to buy some extra thermal heatsinks? Also that is the most epic looking modded pc ive ever seen
Cheers xD, The backplate alone will do the job, higher quality thermal pads like 3mm Gelid GP-Extreme or Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 8 would help. Depends which model GPU too though as some run hotter than others & a pack of cheap ebay heatsinks to stick directly on the memory would still do a good job to lower temps further.
@@Jo3yization hey, thanks for responding im doing it on a low profile gtx 1660 super single fan from pny, am i still good with the backplate?
what heatsinks did you use for vram and vrm, also isn't 3mm too much for the back plate, has it cause any issues so far?
can you provide the link for heatsinks
This set here: www.arctic.de/en/Accelero-Xtreme-III-Heatsink-Set/OTH-HEATSINK-AXIII though there are plenty of cheap memory heatsinks on ebay that would also do the job,, 3mm pads for full-size is fine for the backplate since I removed the protective film & there's no protective spaces/washers built into the backplate(as with normal AiB backplates).
The surface area is also much larger so the backplate still heats up good, but imo needs more direct airflow to really be efficient, the main risk of going too thin is if you clamp it too hard and anything manages to pierce through say.. a 1mm pad, you could end up with a short & GPU damage, the thinnest I'd go is 1.5-2mm & then consider keeping the protective black foam piece arctic include for normal installation.
If you cut the protective sheet carefully, then going with thinner pads should be ok too.
@@Jo3yization understood. I try 2mm since i have 3 pads of those. Add those on the back
@@Jo3yization also the thermal tape was that necessary for heatsinks
It's part of the installation instructions but more just a precaution, as long as you are careful with clearance or use some extra adhesive I don't think its necessary, just keep in mind the clearance/height in that area is tiny, so if the heatsinks overhang just a little bit make sure they are level.
@@Jo3yization ok. I'll give it a shot. Also what program to use to monitor the vram and vrm temps?
This card is still working fine? great mod
Yup still running strong.
10:29 a reference to Bruce Lee. I love it
I know this is old but you you are still reading this it would be nice to test these coolers on modern gpus and maybe try out the Morpheus GPU cooler!
Yo, although it would be interesting my honest opinion after the RX 5700 (Which really needed extra backplate cooling) and now owning a 6700 XT, is modern GPUs on GDDR6 have surpassed what the Arctic & Morpheus can comfortably cool(compared to AIB coolers that cover the VRAM properly). No doubt they will work, but a good AIB card on modern GPUs should outperform all-around temps of the Arctic & Morpheus unless you're talking about low end models or the cheap, not so well known brands such as Aisurix that come with sub-par heatsinks.
You can see how big modern coolers are for mid to high end cards(6700 XT+). ua-cam.com/video/7MJpMp06R4U/v-deo.html
Hello man! It's me again. I already installed the accelero 4. And it's amazing. Those temps went down a lot. Now I have the issue that I can't mount the backplate. I tried doing it with the original backplate and putting the thermal pads in it. But no mayor success with the mem temps they go very very high (90-100c). I know the backplate it's supposed to take care of that. The problem is that I can't put it in the 2 slot because it will take away all my intake fans. How can I improve that until I get a higher MOBO were I can mount freely.
Hello & awesome! Thats a shame about the backplate though.. Direct heatsinks from ebay for the VRM/VRAM would be the main way if you cant fit a backplate, the Accelero 3 is basically the backplate-less version & comes with a full set of different sized heatinks for that purpose, but you can pretty much purchase packs of the sizes you need online. There are 'side fan brackets' that you might be able to fit to play from the side with a Scythe slipstream slim fan possibly too. But the heatsinks alone should help. Setting an aggressive fan profile so the GPU fans hit higher speeds under load can also help even if you dont add heatsinks, but I cant be sure how much.
@@Jo3yization Thanks bro!
The vrms doesn't show that much problem though the mem sensor and I think it's the #1 it's going very hot. Did some testing and I think the better choice is unistall the fans and add the backplate. I don't have the full thermal pad as you but for now I'll go only with the included. I'll update when I finish some testing with the backplate
@@Jo3yization Done bro! Already installed the gpu with the backplate and the memory temps didn't go to low as they should. Maybe I'm mounting wrong but I checked like 10 times because the PCB was bending when I was applying pressure. That could be or the lack of airflow is struggling the gpu.
Hmm if the case has a lack of airflow then that's a strong possibility, or the rear side of the PCB opposite the memory just needs a little more mounting pressure(as the backplate pressure is tied to the core mounting pressure in that area). Though I understand it might be hard to get optimal results first go, as long as you arent forcing it down with a screwdriver trying to tighten the nuts a little more should be fine(you could use a screwdriver though depending on hand strength as everyone is different, just make sure the metal rectangle washers dont start to bend). Otherwise a good fan profile & possibly trying an undervolt may be the best ways to drop memory temps further.
@@Jo3yization I tighten the mounting screws as best I could without using the flat head. AndI felt like some of them went "deeper".
imgur.com/gallery/8CTxEEh
The thermals are slightly better but I think the right part of the backplate it's not making enough pressure. And anything is bending from pressure apart from the PCB.
In my manual it says I should only use small 1mm washers. That's the only difference from yours.
love it! too bad they dont exist anymore
yo, i might be late, but i just got this arctic cooler too for my rx 5700 xt... i was wondering if its a good idea to buy and put a 100x100x3mm pads just like u did to ease up the hussle? is it safe to do it that way or not?
Definitely worth it to speed up installation and improve transfer of heat to the backplate,, I'm still running it to this day the way I installed it in this video, if I was to do a fresh install I'd even be tempted to try 1-2mm thickness to see if temps improve further, you just have to be careful if opting to 'skip' the protective foam behind the GPU core & going with thin pads under 1mm imo.
@@Jo3yization dang, was suprised u came back to me this fast. I actually ordered some 4 100x100x1.5mm ones cuz it was cheaper this way. Was wondering if its even worth it to stack them or not. Currently now im running the way it should to be mounted while waiting for these to arrive. Altho i took out the black foam and instead i put some of those 3mm thermal pads on it. Definitely improve gpu hot spot. Altho on 1080p furmark test it still gets around 95-98c.. Memory temps are fine around 85-88c. Not sure whats the normal temps for gddr6 tho but yeah. I really dont want to put perma little heatsinks on them.. Any other way? I have some arctic 0.5mm/1mm thermal pads
Given its furmark I wouldnt be too concerned,, 98 is actually good for that stresstest xD Other than trying to get the voltage as low as possible & running an aggressive fan profile, not too much else you can do, using a liberal amount of paste on the core seemed to help, which is what I did on this reinstall vid. Furmark temps are abnormally high by default though which is why I avoid testing with it.
Try some less intensive benchmarks or games & you should see the hotspot *much* lower, especially if you cap the fps to around your monitor refresh instead of just letting it run to 99% usage, the game/benchmark more than anything else will cause the largest increase in hotspot, some games will push mine to 90c+ running uncapped too while other games have the hotspot in-line with the core.
>>
Cyberpunk for example, while very GPU intensive only runs 70c hotspot with a 61fps cap, compared to 85c+, same settings and uncapped fps which only runs 10 higher but causes constant 99% usage.
@@Jo3yization previously with the foam on back in furmark gpu hotspot would get to 110c lol. Altho my clocks are 2000mhz@1000mV. Cant really get lower since its unstable that way :(. In cyberpunk i actaully get around 78-80 hotspot temps at 99% since i have 144hz monitor i cant stand 60fps anymore sadly lol. Im afraid that my r5 1600af@4ghz cant keep up anymore and its a cpu bottleneck at this point.
Ah I see, well, given temps and target framerate I wouldnt be too concerned, but yes your CPU would be holding your framerates down. You could still cap your fps closer to your 'average' framerate rather than running maximum, so if you get 75-90fps or higher for example, cap it closer to your average not your max, it will actually improve your minimums to run this way _and_ bring hotspot down a bit simply by running 98% utilization instead of constant 99%.
But given your core & voltage, higher hotspot is normal & I wouldnt be too worried as its normal for an XT model to be a bit hotter than non-XT, you're still within safe operating temps at least. Are you aware of the Cyberpunk/Ryzen optimizations that boost fps for some people? hothardware.com/news/cyberpunk-2077-low-amd-performance-fix
14x14x6 mm heatsinks is good ? is it suitable? can i use? ty good luck
They might overhang a little on one side by should be fine.
@@Jo3yization i think u are sure. 4mm is good .. 14x14x4 mm is enough..
I have used 18x13x14x6mm before & clearance was fine /w the Xtreme IV, though it may depend on the model for the newer GPUs with memory closer to the die this is more an issue of width, for height 6mm shouldnt be a problem in general.
Here's a link to the heatsinks I once used with a 1070 Ti.
bit.ly/2FLQpv4
ua-cam.com/video/c7QwBtYyzCI/v-deo.html
The perfect width for GDDR6 would be 14x12 but 12x12 or 14x14 should still be ok just make sure clearance does not touch any nearby components or place some TIM/pad or kapton tape for insulation if in doubt.
Hi! Will it fit rx 570 armor 8gb oc from MSI?
Yep should be, pretty much universal fit you just have to match the VRAM pad placement for the backplate(or buy large thermal pads which is a lot quicker).
@@Jo3yization Where can i buy them?
And you mean that thermal pads included in xtreme iv will be not enough?
LAST question, xtreme iv will be the only one that will fit mine rx?
Depends on your location, the Arctic store can ship to most countries; www.arctic.de/en/products/cooling/cpu-cooler/ otherwise I've been able to find it in some online shops fairly easily. The Arctic Xtreme III or IV should have a universal fit on most boards, you can see the supported GPUs on the Arctic Website..
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The included thermal pads are plenty, its just you have to do more work to position them perfectly during installation, if you buy some larger 100x100x1.5mm thermal pads on ebay for example, it simplifies the install process so its much easier since you dont have to cut the plastic film.
Anyone zotac 1080ti mini??
if it has a normal size PCB around 98mm then it can work with that one too, also u have to look for clearance and such. this cooler is really worth it, you can always keep it for the future cards
Check these idle temps out; i.imgur.com/Sni5PbK.jpg
Thx
This card is a Miss I regret buying my pulse 5700 xt
I wish I bought the 2070 super
I already spent like 100 dollars on case fans
Yeah it depends really, if you can tune a good fan profile & lower the stock voltage a little I think its still decent value compared to the 2070 super which is almost 1.5x the price where I am, the amount I've spent on cooling & even adding a aftermarket cooler to mine is still only around half of what I would have paid extra for a 2070 S. I mean, if I had a 2070 S I still would have purchased more case fans either way.
@@Jo3yization
Thanks you do have a good point
I guess I'll try tweaking the software more
Is 85c junction temp good ?
My vrm and gpu temps are in the 77c
But I have to ramp the fan speed to 100 percent isn't that harmful to the fans on the long term ?
85c is within normal range, I'd say anything under 90c is pretty good for stock voltage & intensive gaming, theres users with the more expensive models like strix & red devil that still get ~100c hotspot temps. As far as fan speed goes,, the stock fan profiles don't account for hotter climates run the same even if your room temp might be 10c hotter than someone living in the U.S. for example, so running higher fan profiles makes the most sense, the fans are hot swappable on the pulse series as far as I know so it shouldnt be too hard to replace them if they happened to fail early, though they should still last a few years at least,, its much cheaper to replace a GPU fan than a failed GPU, & keeping the temps down will make it last longer.
You can probably get a decent temp drop and still great performance running something like 1850mhz @ 1.15-1.2v~ depending on the quality of your GPU chip if you want to try to get temps down further, but I think those temps are fine.
@@Jo3yization
Thanks for your kind replay
That's reassuring
I also forgot to mention that my case has poor airflow
I will be getting new fAns and test again
Thanks alot
No worries, the fans should help a lot, ideally you want to fill the front intake, one exhaust top(above the CPU) & one rear,, if you have 2 fan slots at the top, its better to leave the one above the ram empty or have it as intake instead of exhaust so it doesnt pull away fresh air from the front. It's probably good you didnt spend extra on a 2070 super as it can also suffer from high temps too if there's poor airflow, so you would still be spending extra on case fans; www.reddit.com/r/nvidia/comments/ct06vw/question_about_rtx_2070_super_temps/
For some good budget fans, take a look at the PcCooler brand,, much cheaper than corsair or noctua & performance is pretty good.