Arctic Accelero Xtreme III Cooler Upgrade (Nvidia and AMD)
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- Опубліковано 8 лип 2024
- Graphics card cooler upgrade, using the Arctic Accelero Xtreme III. This cooler is designed to work with a wide variety of Nvidia and AMD graphics cards; general instructions here apply across the board.
Timestamps
0:00 Introduction
2:36 Remove Video Card from Computer
4:50 Remove Screws/Lift Reference Cooler
9:58 Remove 4-Pin Power Connection for Reference Cooler
10:29 Clean off Old Thermal Paste
12:30 Overview of Individual Aluminum Heatsinks (optional)
14:06 Remove Thermal Pads/Prepare for Individual Aluminum Heatsink (optional)
16:19 Installation of VRAM Individual Aluminum Heatsinks (optional)
18:40 Overview of VRM/VRAM (optional)
20:23 Preparing VRM for Individual Aluminum Heatsink Installation/Removing Thermal Pads (Optional)
22:17 Install Anti-static Tape at VRM (optional)
26:53 Install VRM Individual Aluminum Heatsinks (Optional)
29:49 Let Individual Aluminum Heatsink Thermal Cement Cure
30:15 Install Mount Spacers to Arctic Accelero Cooler
31:24 Install Mount Spacers to Graphics Card
32:55 Install Mounting Bracket to Graphics Card/Final Spacers
33:56 Mount Arctic Accelero Cooler Onto Graphics Card
34:42 Tighten Mounting Screws for Cooler
37:43 Attach 4-Pin Power Connection for Arctic Accelero Cooler
38:11 Complete Build Overview
38:32 Reinstall Graphics Card
39:22 Tips for Preventing Graphics Card Sag
41:35 Conclusion - Наука та технологія
thank you for making this extremely detailed video. I just put an accelero III on my dad’s 1080ti after his cooling solution broke down, and this was an invaluable resource. got it up and running and temps and noise levels are great! thank you again.
Glad it was a help!
A bit lengthy but detailed. Thanks for sharing this instruction video.
Yeah, I tried thinking about how to shorten, but opted to give the whole rundown (and make it easily skip able)
Ordered mine, waiting for it. I like how detailed this video, answered everything I need. I'll put it on a blower 5700XT.
Glad it helped!
Extremely helpful video. Used this for my 1080 FE installation and this was easily better than the instructions provided. Thank you sir. I'll tilt a drink in your honor tonight.
Glad you found it helpful!!!
Im going to install this on my 1060 cuz I've had it for a while and with the pandemic its not leaving any time soon and the fan blades have seen better days
thank you for this amazingly helpfull video
glad it helped!
Thanks for the video! I've installed Xtreme III on my RTX2080 Super, now it never exceeds 60C in slightly undervolted/OCd configuration, simply amazing! Almost 20C drop from stock (on EVGA 2080 Super Black). And its completely silent too!
I have to mention that by default the VRAM heatsinks interfere with the cooler mounting thing, so I had to dremel some of the fins on VRAM heatsinks a bit (like maybe 25% of the overall fin area). Interesting fact - before the purchase I've asked Arctic support about the compatibility and specifically mentioned the VRAM heatsinks and they said it should be fine...oh well.
And yeah, it sags quite a bit so I had to use my broken iPod nano to prop the GPU - at least its useful for something now.
Glad to hear it worked well!
This video was really helpful! Had to use the smaller spacers where the cooler actually gets mounted, otherwise the thermal paste didn’t make contact. Also had to leave off a couple of the aluminum heat sinks. Otherwise followed your video and it works!
Glad it helped!
Incredibly useful video, I used this to replace the water cooler on my 980ti hybrid when the pump died.
Glad to hear!
Thank you so much for making this, used it on my RX 480 and the only thing I had issues with was aligning screws. Once again, thanks!
Glad to hear it helped!
So will this work on rx580 as well?
It is listed as supported!
I have used this 3 times recently. MSI Mech oc 5700 XT, a 2070 Super Reference, and a Power Color Vega 56. Every time it lowered noise massively and temps aswell. Love this thing
Glad to hear it!
Could you please tell me if I can use this for GTX 1080?
@@ThicFig Yup! Same process applies for 1080.
Fantastic video, looking at getting one of these for a 2070 super blower card and this has helped a lot!
Glad to hear it!
Great video. Very through. Jus what I needed! Thank you
Glad it helped!
Thank you, very good! You saved my graphics card 👍
Yay!
I see you have the same CPU HSF. Excellent choice! Thanks for the detailed talk during the installation.
Hope it helped!
Yes, the talking more than the video. I modified a card in an HP Omen and ended up only using two screws and no back plate. The advice to look around and be creative helped immensely.
@@calderstrake Good! There's definitely an artform to recognizing *if* modifications might be needed beyond the original directions.
Thank you so much for this video. I have been in DIRE need to replace my 1060's cooler and I wouldn't be able to do it with this video
glad it's helpful!
Nice video.
BTW, I used to work in circuit board assembly factory that soldering components onto PCB. It's always a no-no to get paper close to components because it can generate static electricity discharge to damage components. I don't know how a big risk it is nowadays, but whenever there's paper near the PCB, they always put the paper inside a pink anti-static bag.
Good tip! Gratefully the graphics card is still in service!
Thanks a lot for this useful Video. Its works perfect.
that's great to hear!
This looks super easy... Especially if you skip the optional steps! XD
glad it was helpful!
I had an AMD R9 390, it is one of the hottest GPUs on the market, and with the Accelero III is was whisper silent!!!
Glad to hear!
27:25 instead of using the tape you can use the PCB repair resin, and paint it on to the exposed components with a tiny artists brush. You can get it in the colour to match your PCB of the graphics card too, for a neat and tidy aesthetically pleasing finish. You paint it on, use a UV lamp/led to cure it for a minute or so and that's it. Job done.
I've seen people using nail varnish to do the same thing too. If you use enough layers and make sure it's a non conductive nail varnish then it should be fine and it dries quick too.
Good observation!
Hey, thanks for the video. Just one question. Is the adhesive used to mount the spacers supposed to be double-sided? None of the 8 pieces of adhesive I received were, and idk if I'm missing brain cells or if Arctic legit sent me single-sided adhesive on accident.
They seem to change supply depending on when it ships - for this cooler, it came with cement, but I have been haring double-sided adhesive being used now.
it's a monster cooler, 30 degrees cooler at half fan speed, supersilent, supercool.50 degrees celsius under full load, and full speed, never throttles back either.
I have the one with the bigass backplate though The Arctic Extreme IV , it cools even better then with the loose cooler fins.
glad to hear it!
Thanks super helpful
glad it helped!
My GPU came with a metal plate covering most of the other components except the die. Can I forgo installing the heatsinks and just keep the plate on as long as there is contact between the die and coole
I think so? Or at least, make sure the cooler is still making good contact with the die.
It's a pity that you didn't film your native plastic casing from the radiator in the video... but Super thanks for the video. This card is very rare (probably because it is not special at all and it was not bought much) I am now buying such a used card for $95 and have been looking for how it looks inside for a long time. Actually, this is a reference design with a reduction in price - a simple plastic shell and no backplate. Although the outside is still beautiful. (it’s bad that they didn’t indicate in the title of the video that this card is EVGA GTX 980 - because of this video it’s impossible to find - but only accidentally saw it ....
Glad it helped!
Hi there Matt, first of all thanks for the videos on both the Arctic Xtreme III and the Raijintek Morpheus II, they certainly helped a lot, now let me ask you this, which of the two gave you the best results overall? I got a RTX 2080 with a blower style cooler and wanted to upgrade it, which of the two would give me the best results? I'm kinda lost here cause the Xtreme III seems like a more polished solution but the Morpheus II on the other hand has 12 heatpipes, maybe if I paired it with 2 noctua 120mm fans it would be even better. Let me know what you think, btw, would it be possible to install a backplate with any of those to help prevent sag? Thanks again.
I’d really recommend going with whichever calling solution is cheaper at the time of purchase, both coolers are very large and provide much greater thermal capacity than the blower cooler. Would probably tilt the arctic option, if only because the Morpheus fan clips are a real pill to try to attach.
That plate would help add some rigidity, there are also a lot of graphics card support brackets you can buy as an option to help address sag. With both cards, I’ve just used a simple wooden dowel painted black as support prop, which is worked like a charm.
@@MattStephensRich Thanks for the feedback, I guess I'll go with the Arctic Xtreme III, it's around $62 and as you said already much better than the original blower, the Morpheus II is around the same price, but I would have to spend more on a couple of noctua fans, besides, I've read the thermal tape that comes with it doesn't do much of a good job on holding the heatsinks in place as it tends to fall later on, the thermal cement that comes with the Arctic Xtreme III seems more reliable. I guess $62 for a complete cooling solution is the way to go. About the sag, maybe I'll just use the Stormtrooper funko pop inside my case as support and save a few bucks, lol. Thanks again.
The extra heatsinks I will be using already come with thermal adhesive pads stuck to them already. Since that's the case, can I skip the anti-static tape procedure on the VRM outlined at 23:29 and just run the heatsink across? Or, do you still recommend taking that step? I was under the assumption that the adhesive that my heatsinks came with already attached would prevent any issues with contacting with those components.
Yup you can skip! It would appear they’ve updated the kit to not use thermal glue anymore, which is a huge improvement for convenience. Be warned however, you want to be sure the adhesive gets a very good fit to the components, as I’ve had adhesive heat sinks fall off on my separate Morpheus how to video.
@@MattStephensRich hey thanks for the reply man as well as the "falling off" tip. I will keep that in mind. These are just extra ones i had laying around to add to the procedure. Really appreciate the response!
Hope it goes well!
hello. thank you for this video. im now buying this gpu cooler. just want to ask though, will this process work with gtx 1070 ti founders edition? im really having problem with its temp. thank you.
Double check the website to make sure it’s meeting the board spec - and you’re off the races!
I have a question. heatsink don't touch a capacitors around a VRAM ??? In my gtx 1080, when I put them on VRAM i think that touch a capacitors, and I'm afraid of a short circuit
You ultimately shouldn’t be at risk of shorting, there is a little bit of flex to the heat sink, and you could look at possibly bending it ever so slightly to not touch.
Will this work for a MSI GTX 980 Ti it has a water block when I bought it and didn't come with the pump or hoses so something like this would be great , thanks any info appreciated.
Yup, this is a 980 I’m working on.
Very good tutorial. Got mine installed today.
I have 1 question left:I'm not sure if i used enough thermal adhesive. Can the heatsink fall of, if the glue gets warm, an damage the gpu?Gpu is working like a charm at the moment
Glad it helped! Thermal adhesive will harden over the next 24 hours, and keeps a tight grip. If a heat sink falls off, it’ll most likely be caught in the fun array, and not damage the fans. Just readhese if so!
Thank you for the fast reply.
It calms me down a little bit.
For sure. Enjoy the lower temps!
my new pc with a ryzen 7 chip seem to be throttling my 1080ti FE for heavier task games even with new heat paste application.. since its impossible for a gpu upgrade these days gonna give this a try tonight, can't wait for the unscrewing again haha. this cooler is 40 more then original msrp currently on amz geez
Good luck!
Thanks ! My blower 2080ti has a metal plate over the memory and components that acts as a heatsink through termal pads so... I Guess i better leave It like that right? I might put the little heatsinks above the plate if there IS room left under the Accelero heatsink...
Yup would still be good to have the backplate on if you have clearance. You could even dremmel to carve off small backplate portions to make room.
Thanks for this Matt! Will this work on a gtx 670 reference card?
It’s listed as supported!
I installed this on my 1080ti but I don't seem to have much if any control over the fan speed. My fan speed on MSI afterburner runs between 33%-44%, almost as if the PCB still thinks there is a blower style fan connected to it. Do you have full control of the fan speed?
You are correct! It reads the fans as the original blower fan, and will register as lower percentage of “full” capacity - that’s ok! I’d recommend double checking the RPM count of the stock fans against the 2000 RPM max on these fans; divide the original total by 2000, and that will give you the max percentage of the new fans.
@@MattStephensRich ah ok that makes sense. Thanks!
For instance, I have a Morpheus cooler on my AMD card using Noctua fans that max out at 1500 RPM, which registers ~15% of max original RPM. So just do some quick math for the new baseline. 😊
You think it would work with my 970 from zotac? (2 fans)
Or is it too big for my card.
It’s listed as compatible!
@@MattStephensRich Thanks for your reply!
I'm gonna take the gamble and try to get it.
@@purplewastaken good luck!
i have a 1070 FE, is this going to be a big help for the card? and also im scared of those heatsinks falling off, the ones that were placed on the vram and memory with thermal paste. Im afraid they will fall off over time through shaking of the computer because of the fans and them being upside down
It indeed works on the 1070 line. The biggest boost you would see is in lower operating temps and quieter fan operation. The heat sinks are actually adhered with a thermal cement, not paste. All cooking that was added in this video is still on the card nice and tight in present day. 😊
@@MattStephensRich thanks for the reply, i was hoping to see a video from you showing your new temps but oh well, i ordered this today from amazon and should have it in the next couple of weeks. hopefully i dont break my gpu trying to do this
wow nice
Thank you for the video, I ended up installing this on my 980 ti when my fans stopped spinning a few days ago. Intially I thought every was fine but for some reason my card is still over heating. I tried to run a mild stress test and it spiked up to 83 C and crashed I was forced to restart my machine. My card came with a metal sheet protecting the components so I didnt need to install the headsinks. Any idea why this could be overheating even after replacing the fan?
Double check that you used the right standoffs, and the cooler is making proper contact with the GPU die. Any gap between the cooler and GPU can cause these temperature spikes. (I accidentally installed the wrong standoffs with this cooler, and ran into a similar problem). Let me know if this works!
Did you fix your overheating problem? Because I too have the metal sheet that covers most of the card minus the gpu die.
Typically what happens with those kinds of base plates is they prevent good contact with the GPU die, and as such you aren't really getting cooling. I'd suspect that's the case with your issue
Indeed, getting good pressure and having the base play properly torqued is a critical step.
I have a question, I just learned about reference vs non reference cards. I have an Nvidia GTX 970 Evga, so non reference. I built my computer a few years ago and don't really know much other than how to plug stuff in lol... so then will this cooler only work on reference cards?
Does your cooler look the same as the reference cooler at the beginning of the video? Evga was indeed the manufacturing partner for the reference cards for the 970 and 980, so the cooler should most likely be compatible.
@@MattStephensRich No it has two fans now that I look at it, and they are pretty dusty lol. Thanks for the reply, I'll probably just take it out and clean it 🤔 I read that perhaps my card would fit but it would not actually cover the whole card and would sag like you say at the end of the video. I'm going to look into it some more, thanks
Tha is for clarifying! Indeed it sounds like you have an aftermarket card. At the very least, it sounds like a fan cleaning is in order; might also be good to remove the cooler and add new thermal paste, as the material can degrade over 4-5 years of heavy use.
@@MattStephensRich thanks! I'm going to do exactly that.
tired this with my 1080 but my card goes into the 70s to 80s any idea why?
Double check the standoffs are the right length and the screws are properly torqued.
Awesome video! Would this cooler work on a Gigabyte 2080 Super?
2080 is listed as supported!
Does anybody know what the thermally conductive adhesive used here is? Or any recommendations, the person I purchased my GPU off must have not used enough adhesive on one of the little heatsinks as it is loose. Figure it should be an easy fix, just don't want to buy the incorrect type.
specifically, a regular thermal paste was used for mating the heatsink against the GPU die. For adhesing the heatsink fins to the VRAM and other components, it was a thermal adhesive that came with the cooler. You could use any type of thermal adhesive or cement, or even double-sided adhesive tape we are starting to see some coolers ship with.
@@MattStephensRich I was able to take off my cooler and re-adhere the little heat sinks back on with the thermal adhesive, also gave the GPU die a clean and a fresh drop of Arctic 5 thermal paste. Thanks for the advice, leaving this comment so anyone else with this problem can find it! Haven't gone over 59 Celsius yet!
@@nearatetley7076 glad to hear it!
I think you're wrong to put the black spacer on the heatsink, because the manual says to put the 2.5mm spacer (the White spacer) on the cooler and black spacer on the back plate.
hmm, good flag - seemed to mount ok.
I confirm for the 1080ti (Gigabyte Turbo), black spacers on the backplate with the EVA foam and white 2.5 for the heatsink.
Love the video. Can I use this for nvidia GTX 1080?
Yup! Works for 1080 as well.
Could it be possible this fits on the 1660ti I seen the iv and the iii have kind the same mounting plate ?
I believe it’s on the compatibility list
@@MattStephensRich i bought one and it fit
Great!
works with the sapphire version of the 290x?
Would recommend double checking the manufacturer listing
Did this to my r9 390x
Niceeee
Hi Matt thanks for the video I have a 1080TI SC black Edition and is overheating, I bought the same cooler I haven't received this yet, I have one question regarding the tape that you use 24:02 does that tape came with the Accelero III or this was something that you bought apart if you bought it could you please share the link. Nice tutorial
Tape came with it. Honestly, you probably don’t need it, or at least don’t fret too much if you don’t cover everything.
@@MattStephensRich tbh I'm pretty scared, I always have done my own stuff with my PC, I don't want to damage the card and I'm trying to be extra careful with this, was really nice to find your video at least gives me an insight about how to install the cooler.
@@HAL_-sg1up You'll do very well, especially if you're putting down the anti-static tape. :) And if it's giving you too much grief, just skip the VRM heatsinks and tape, and stick with the main cooler (as simple as a CPU cooler swap). TBH, I don't *think* the VRM coolers offer that much more cooling, or at least vs. having the fans blowing directly on them already.
@@MattStephensRich Thanks for this video. I have a related question for you. If I switch using thermal tape instead of the glue, could I just lay a wide strip of it over the VRMs (similar to the pad on the stock cooler) and skip the anti-static tape install since the thermal tape should keep the heatsink from bridging connections?
@@iroesstrongarm Yup!
I am installing this soon, just ordered. Maybe using the PCI connector for sag is not good because you would add pressure on the soldering for the power.
Good thought!
@@MattStephensRich Cooler ready to pick up!
Good luck!
@@MattStephensRich Pulled it off!, still have to run Unigine next. Not trying to OC yet.
Nice! Definitely work out power limit target increases first, and gradually work up core clock speeds. 😊
Can some one elaborate on what purpose the small connectors are for? He never explained if he connected them or Left them hanging. Asking since I just bought a customPC, got the GC power connections, don't know where the HDMI connectors goto and still dont understand these small wires since there appears to be nothing on the MB for them to connect to.
Those connectors are for fan power and speed control. :)
@@MattStephensRich I've come across 3 YT clips explaining the GC build but not hooking it up. Any hints or direction you can point to on this would be appreciated!😅
Ultimately depends on your card and motherboard design; ultimately you would be connecting into the fan pins on the graphics card, or fan pins on the motherboard.
I bought the extreme 3, but I don't have several of the components you have :/
They seem to swap components often - cooler is most important part! You can use heat sinks as hoc online too if they’re missing 🙂
Great video man, Would this work on my dell 2070 super?
It unfortunately might not, as I believe that is built on a different PCB.
my bday is coming up and im thinking of getting one for my 1070 aero, unfortunately this product is eol so it's hard to find coolers. thankfully, i found their original model for like, $50. designed for geforce 200 series but i think it'll work lol
Gratefully a lot of the mounting brackets are pretty universal - hope the install goes well!
will it fit a 2070 windforce 2?
Support site has 2070 listed. www.arctic.ac/us_en/accelero-xtreme-iii.html
I'm pretty sure thermal pads only work if you have them contacting something to transfer heat to... a thermal pad on its own can actually incelate heat.
Thermal pads by themselves do offer some heat transfer - ultimately after this video was shot; the thermal pads fell off lol
Will this work on Nvidia geforce GT8800?
Yup! You can check all card compatibility on the Arctic website as well.
does it work on rtyx 2060
Yup!
My gpu is so loud sound just like a jet and it's kinda hot too think I might swap my heatsink.
It’s a good call!
how was the thermals after ? cheers for the video btw
Thermals peaked around 65 with the cooler, down from 80-90 at load. That being said, this dumps A LOT of excess heat into the case, so you’ll need to step up your case fan game too.
@@MattStephensRich good to know thanks , I can add another exhaust fan to the top for three exhausts in total and two 140mm fans pulling through a radiator on the front cooling my CPU and hope for the best XD
Adding an additional exhaust is never a bad idea. Let us know the results!
I build it today with help of this video. It was smooth, no problems at all. I changed it because I have MSI gtx 1080 ti armor and stock cooler is baaaaadddd. Now temps in games are below 60C°, very nice product and silent. I can run it at 100% fan speed and silent. Chears. :) Thanks for help. I was bit worried when I was tightening the 4 screws, it seemed to be no contact with gpu die and main block with thermal paste on it, but everything is fine. Perfect happy with cooling and noise. Would recomend to anyone.
Glad it was of help! I just bought an AMD, so may run another video for that install too.
will it fit to 1070 ti dual?
listed as supported!
are these compatible with Asus RTX 2080 super blower card?
reading through Reddit, it sounds like some of the 2000 series Nvidia cards have clearance issues: www.reddit.com/r/sffpc/comments/aiy07t/nvidia_rtx_2060_and_arctic_accelero_xtreme_iii/
Soooo, did a bit more digging, and 2080 is indeed listed on the Arctic website? www.arctic.ac/us_en/accelero-xtreme-iii.html So maybe dig a bit more, and make sure you'd be able to have clearance.
@@MattStephensRich Thank you...
Is the accellero 3 compatible with rtx 2060 blower manli?
2060 is listed as compatible
Yup
@@MattStephensRich its not listed ?
Looks like it’s listed under arctic accelerometer IV, which is the III with a backplate.
@@MattStephensRich yep couple of months ago I've done the upgrade, thank u so much for the video, super helpful! (Went from +80°maximum to 57° tested in summer, now its winter and the Gpu is even colder!)
For those of you that don't know if your card is supported, here's the vendor's direct link:
www.arctic.ac/us_en/accelero-xtreme-iii.html
Matt, great video! Very well done and details were nicely explained.
Thanks for the link!
Is the thermal glue permanent?
What was used on the GPU cooler - no. What was used for the chipset coolers - yes.
Mine came with a molex connector. I think I am missing the 2 fan connectors as I only have 1
There should be a fan connection preinstalled on the fans, which you can plug directly into your graphics card fan power port. The moles adapter is only if you need to run the fans off of power outside of the graphics card.
@@MattStephensRich so I have 2 gpu ports labeled as "j9" and "j10". One is white, the other (10) is black.
Can I use either port?
@@MattStephensRich also, if I could just plug it into the gpu, why would I need the molex? Was is because during it's inception into the market, that the gpu fan psu weren't always compatible and or there?
What’s the GPU you’re working with?
@@MattStephensRich 2070 super oc msi ventus
Why is it that Nand flash memory modules works better when hot but every other module likes to be cool!?
🤷🏼♂️
Couldn't I just put clear nail polish over the sensitive parts to avoid shorts? Seems like it would be much quicker and precise
You could, so long as the polish is non-conductive. 😊
@@MattStephensRich Yeah, I thought so. I hope the stuff I have is non conductive! Haha. Thank you for your super helpful guide, I'll finally silence my RX 580 whilst I wait for GPU prices to return to normalcy.
Let us know how it goes!
Does it work with a pny xlr8 gtx 1660 super single fan?
Yup, it's listed as supported on their website.
@@MattStephensRich you sure? Its a single fan
@@MattStephensRich i just dont wanna buy, have voided my warranty by unscrewing gpu, and then have to ship it back
That should still be ok, as the mount points should still be the same between the full and half card. It wouldn’t hurt to consider a smaller cooler that may be cheaper, as the 1660 would have a far lower TDP. Also, don’t worry about the backplate option 😉
@@MattStephensRich thanks bro
I didn’t have to use the backplate the screws alone were fine enough
Definitely a little dealers choice, depending on your card.
Anyone know if it'll work on a RTX 970?
Absolutely does!
@@MattStephensRich Thank you for the Reply, I guess its a GTX 970, not RTX.
Will it still work?
Yup! This card is actually a 980, which is the same board design.
Would this work on a GTX 970?
Absolutely - same chipset as 980!
That's cool, thanks.
No pun intended.
Let us know how it goes!
I haven't decided on the cooler yet, I was hoping to get one that can be used for a bit of overclocking as well, since getting a new GPU isn't really an option these days.
When i opened the termal glue it exploded in my hand yup ... 😒
sounds sticky.
Afther 2 days still sticky 🥴🥴🥴 ( but w8 what are ur temps on vram and power delivery cuz when i touch them they are hot ass f i think they are +100°C and the core clock goes down to 1890 instead of 2040 )
The rim and power delivery are indeed going to get very hot, it’s their primary duty to do that. At the same time, heat isn’t as big a factor for them as it is for the GPU die. Focus on your GPU temps - what are those peaking at under load?
@@MattStephensRich gpu no more then 42°C before it was 74°C but the vram and power delivery was not that hot ! Btw i have an RTX 2060 ITX 6GB OC edition the arctic cooler did not worked on my gpu but i used the original plate and modified it
@@MattStephensRich and with the stock cooled the core clock goes up to 2040 Mhz but now does down to 1890 or 1650 bcz of vram and pow delivery heat
Is your pc sitting on carpet when it’s turned on?
Yup; which is why I have the PSU pulling from inside air, rather than drown out in carpet shag.
Matt SR ok, I was worried for a second that your PSU was being choked lol😂
Haha you’d be surprised how far you can still get! And will a bottom filter on this case, there’s definitely a lot more options if you’re on hard surface.
your hands shaking made me so aggravated. man. I couldn't take watching it. lol
Hah, takes a bit of balance it turns out!
@@MattStephensRich Thanks for taking the time to create this video! shaking doesn't impact the quality and knowledge that came across while watching
@@kirksmith578 Glad it was helpful!
Anyone on zotac 1080ti mini ?
I believe the mounting design is still the same on the mini - double check, but you should be ok!
@@MattStephensRich thank you sir
@@srdjanterzic9964 You bet! Let us know how it goes!
2x speed still slow
Go for ludicrous speed
And the thermal grease? 😂
Mentioned upfront that it has pre-applied thermal grease - obviously slap in before installing the heatsink. :P
This dude don't know half of what he's doing 😂
Oh?
@@MattStephensRich well let me rephrase that, you talked about the vrm heatsinks like the other vrm's didn't need them. Without heatsinks vrm's are less efficient and prone to overheating and eventually failing over time
If you’re not going to overclock, you are honestly probably ok. The other thing that also bear in mind is you are having a new, direct airflow over the VRM’s, rather than having them smothered in only cooled by thermal pads with the original blower style fan. This often gives ample cooling to have the VRMs be happy. Think about motherboards as well, there are many motherboards out there that support overclocking that do not have VRM heat sinks; well these boards probably have a lower over clock-ability than a higher end board, it still stands to reason that not having heatsinks is a death knell.
TL;DR The new added cooling with the fans is most likely very adequate to cool the chipset
@@MattStephensRich true, true. You actually know your stuff then haha.
I’m just here to keep it real.