Tech YES the Accelero Xtreme III comes with included heatsinks 😉 The washer problem should be fixed when the backplate is installed and connected to the backside through the thermal pads, which provides additional cooling for the frontside components of the card, through the PCB (RAM, VRMs, etc.). But we will take a closer look at the washer situation 🙋♂️
@Arctic Brian did not build it properly, I used several coolers especially the IV cools great (RX 480/580). Keep up your great products. May be you can order a Vega 64 one, too. IMHO only the Morpheus works.
@@mr_tea753 ! get the III one , not the IV. It can actually bend your PCB depending on your GPUs VRM location and the thermal pads being thiccccc. Be sure to measure twice and glue the heatsinks on once, as the cooler may partially block some memory. (Issues with "1 size fits all" coolers)
R9 390 with Accelero Xtreme IV...delta on gpu core is around 40C....(from around 95 to 55-56 max)...pcb and mem temps around 69C with instaled backplate and termalpads under it
@@ThePeperich I have a morpheus on a vega 64 a few things to note: Mofsets are cooled by included aluminium heatsinks and does not come with a backplate like the accelero. It does not come with fans, Included are wire clips to attatch fans, this makes it a huge pia to install the card, i bent a few fins and scratched the finish installing the card and had to adjust the fans in a tight cramped case. It does not come with a vga fancable/ adapter so you have to order one. The morphius looks better than the arctic until you attach fans once its got fans its quite ugly. The morpheus is HUGE it take about 3.5 slots or 3 slots with low profile fans. Its cooling however is out of this world. I ended up Modifying (grinding / cutting away material) the reference base plate to fit under the cooler as the base plate cools the mofsets on the 64, it gave me a way to hid the fan cables and i think it looks better than bare pcb with heatcsinks glued on.
Bryan...... Bryan. The back plate is the heatsink for the components the thermal pads go over the back side of the vram and vrm and back plate cools them from the back side of them. Its not as effective but still works and is not permanent like the 3's thermal glue. Still love you man. LOL.
I've had this cooler with the backplate version, trust Bryan mate, it really is a terrible idea, also what makes this backplate so useless is the fact that the "fins" are arranged perpendicularly with the length of the card rather than just going across, reason being that in the latter the case fans would at least help provide a bit of airflow, its a dumb design and i would strongly recommend that you get heatsinks like Bryan did + you get to keep the original backplate of the card which is a + for the looks edit: also as a side note for those who dont like the artic acelero cheap logo sticker at the front, you can actually detach the fan piece from the heatsink and rotate it to the other side that's another + for the looks for anyone that cares
@@vladduh3164 like i said I know its not as effective but my point was that he totally missed the point of the whole design and how to put it together even though he said he read the instructions but clearly he didnt start from "step 1". I just thought it was funny. I would never buy a "IV" variant of that cooler. Ive owned the "III" but i dont like the heatsinks are permanently glued on. When it came time to sell my 980 ti I had to sell it cheaper than I could than if i could of put the Zotac Amp cooler back on.
@@maynardcrow6447 he did say he was going to pretend he had got the v III because it was too inconvenient and risky to put that back plate on as he would have to measure and cut that plastic according to the position of the memory modules and vrms 3:30 Also, the heatsinks dont have to be permanently glued, that stuff does come off if you pry it carefully, i have even used artic silver's thermal adhesive which is pretty much an epoxy and that stuff sticks on pretty well I had to use some very fine razer blades and a bit of heat but i got all of the heatsinks off eventually and even put the stock cooler back on (which you should definitely never get rid of, just stick in a box somewhere) and it all works fine no problem, didnt affect the resale vale nor have I had anyone complain about a faulty gpu, and mind i have actually done this more than once.
That backplate is there to cool your memory and VRM.... I can't believe you did not install it. I'm running this cooler on my GPU and that backplate is awesome it really helps a lot.
Gamer Nexus points out in several of his videos that the GDDR6 has its die on the base of the chip. So one would assume that cooling the back of the board, would improve significantly their temps.
This... Although it isn't as effective as the heatsinks on the front of the chips, most manufacturers are using thermal pads with backplates for GDDR6, and the ones who don't typically have memory thermal issues.
Yea not the greatest choice in this day in age to not use a backplate. If a gpu has gddr6 which going in the future they all will backplate cooling is only going to help. I dont buy gpus with out one they just look like they are missing something and of course to me reveled PCB just looks terrible.
Arctic Accelero Xtreme Vl. Had him on my good old power moded GTX 1060. Imo the backplate is important. It gets pretty toasty which means it works and takes a lot of heat away, especially from the vrms. My 1060 Never went beyond 45° Celsius, although cranked to 2189mhz and 1,093v.
@@Squilliam-Fancyson That is a very impressive overclock, I didn't realize that the 1060 was primarily power limited, changed mine to a 5700xt a week ago.
@@thetrashman5252 yeah it was quite nice for a budget card.(Palit GTX 1060 Dual) You can easily see its power limited with GPU - Z (perfcap reason pwr). After performing the power mod, by soldering some additional 0805 smd resistors onto the existing ones of the power controller (the Kingpin method, which is safer then applying liquid metal onto the shunts) this no longer happens, as the cards sensor only will show around 20% tdp at highest. The biggest limit is temp tough. Pascal mostly scales with temperature. Keeping the card below 48° Celsius is crucial to achieve sustained clocks of 2151mhz+, at least it was for mine. Under 38° i could even achieve beyond 2200mhz. At this clock speed 5000 point graphic score at time spy is possible, which is almost GTX 1070(stock) territory .
The reason the memory temps on the Accelero are so high is because the GDDR6 die is closer to the bottom of the chip than the top. I’d try sticking more mini heatsinks on the back of the card over the memory and see if that improves temps.
Or I have a really stupid Idea...hmm...how about using the MASSIVE backplate heat sink with the heat pads. You know, that "worthless" stuff that he so easily dismissed right from the start. Just a thought.
Another great video mate, and great how you've made that cooler work better. But next time, please install it how the manufacturer intended and get some stats from that, then do it your way, just to prove a point. I'm sure others would be interested also. Keep them coming.
The ribbed backplate is very effective if installed correctly. You must cut cutouts for hot components to the insulating layer and install these fat thermalpads in these cutouts. Then inspect that there are no shorting. Blackplate gets hot and cools card if installation is successuful. I have installed about 10 Accelero IV s for 1080 ti and 2080 ti s. These are mostly mining cards. Dead silent on mining and makes very little noise in gaming. So, my point is that the ribbed baclplate are not pointless. Another point for baclplate is that its very easy to restore videocards factory condition. Nothing is clued to the card.
Ever since my AMD 7950 slowly eroded by gentle overclock...I never overclock GPUs anymore on arctic accelero xtreme iv does not include micro heatsinks. I bought some myself a while back, but it includes the huge backplate for cooling VRM. It's much better than III version, but it will eat 1.5-2 slots from the backplate. Which can overlap memory slots on some motherboards. Check clearance.
GDDR6 is a "flip-chip" design, so all the heat is at the PCB side, not the top. I wonder if putting some heatsinks on the backside of the PCB where the memory is would drop the temps. Maybe even using adding 2mm thermal pads on the back of the PCB, and using the Accelero's included backplate, as it looks like it has a fair amount of cooling capacity. Just my thoughts though. o7
I had a double fan Arctic cooler on my MSI HD 6850 1GB back in the day. The original heatsink was just a black chunk of aluminium with a fan and nothing else. After installing the Arctic cooler, it added two years onto my card's life. It even came with the glue TIM with little heatsinks for the VRam.
I thought the rear heatsink was suppose to help pull away heat from the VRMs and Memory. I used to use it with a huge thermal pad instead of a thin plastic isolation layer.
@@hungalas1 a huge thermal pad wont hurt but it doesn't help either just expensive around memory, gpu and vrm with a bit of overhang about 10 to 20% more area is plenty enough
Too much people are just dumb. This backplate works. I used such a backplate in the past. And it was better than the sh!t MSI shipped on their custom trash card. Does it work with "This" exact card here, the 5700XT ? I cannot say. But i saw several videos now featuring this cooler and like you said, no one uses it. And no one explains why exactly! Someone might expect some "professionalism" from some tech YTbers....
I can highly recommend to ghettomod a CPU-cooler for the gpu while keeping the "frontplate" of the reference cooler for cooling the VRM and VRAM. I'm currently cooling my R9 290X with the first gen arctic cooling freezer 7 pro and it tops out at around 75C overclocked to 1120Mhz on the core. I never even believed the small tower cooler would outperform a aftermarket GPU cooler but it actually does. The tricky part is to make a bracket to fit the cooler to gpu. I made one out of wood and used (I think it was) some longer M3 screws and sealed them with some regular motherboards standoffs. It was pure luck that the M3 screw was just long enough the standoffs could give the perfect amount of mounting pressure. I'm kind of interested in buying the cheapest RX 5700 reference model and maybe buy a gammaxx 400 cooler for it. The scetchy part though is that I have to run the fan on a motherboard fan header and control it through a third party app that reads the gpu temperature. However it's waaay cheaper than a "proper" aftermarke gpu cooler while performing even better. It would be super cool if cpu cooler manufacturers where providing mounting brackets for gpus as well as cpus.
You don't have to use the plastic. When you apply the thermal pads to the back, they are thick and space the backplate out from the PCB, so that it isn't just touching everything and creates shorts.
i bought an Extreme 3 about half a year ago, and yes the heatsinks and thermal glue is still included in the 3. the assumption they made on the 4 is that "you won't need these heatsinks because of the huge heatsink/backplate".
@6:04 Yeah, that cooler mount bracket has bent so far in, the mounting pressure and contact will be very weak. That means the accelero V4 is a complete failure design-wise. They need to make sure their brackets are actually strong enough to maintain the mounting pressure.
I have the same card and same third party cooler. One problem I found (if you actually used a PC case) is that the supporting bracket that you can install onto the card to prevent sagging actually gets blocked by the PCB closest to the ports. I solved this by making a cutout using a dremel. Another problem was that the thermal pads don't adhere well and because the card is usually placed upside down, they pretty much fell off. Still, the temperatures are good and under stress test it is only the GPU itself that hits over 90 degrees. It is a lot more silent compared to a blower cooler ramping up all the time, but I couldn't get Afterburner to increase the fan speed (percentage went up, but tachometer readings didn't). A worthwhile upgrade if you accidently got the blower instead of some proper double/triple fans, but not perfectly easy to install either.
GDDR6 comes in a "flip chip" packaging design, which means that the hottest running parts of the silicone inside the cheap are orientated towards the back of the PCB, not the front. Thus a functional backplate is actually very important to keep internal memory temps under control. Running the card without a backplate will have detrimental effect on the lifetime of the memory chips.
I'm a little late to the party here, but there is another reason for the accelero that you didn't mention. I bought a brand new msi gtx 1080 ti sea hawk from ebay that comes with a water block but I want air cooling so I got an accelero III. The 1080 ti was $50 usd and the accelero III was $65, so $115 usd for a 1080 ti in 2020 is a great deal.
There is a way to clip memory heatsinks down against the pcb so you dont have to use a curing paste and get better mounting pressure. Next you should try the Alphacool Eiswolf GPX AIO for the 5700xt. It supposedly keeps everything cool even tho the liquid only hits the die directly, but ive heard only anecdotal evidence.
The memory and VRM are supposed to be cooled by the back plate via thermal pads. The material the memory chips are made from is a poor thermal conductor so the tiny heatsinks you've added to the top don't do much, most of the heat is transferred via pins (or more technicaly, balls) to the PCB.
I fitted the Accelero IV to a GTX 1070ti, as I got one with a bad stock cooler, though it was fairly cheap.. I used heatsinks on the front in addition to the massive backplate heatsink and it does work very well. That backplate gets very hot during stresstest, which means it is sinking a lot of heat away from the card. It's kind of in a rough spot in the case though, wedged between the GPU and CPU cooler so the airflow there isn't exactly optimal, only way to address that would be if you have a computer case with a fan in the side panel above the GPU...
You can if you look at it vs the stock fan speeds on the reference, the temps of the memory go up significantly and when on 100% they come down significantly, this was the same case on the 5700 non xt without a backplate.
@@techyescity nah you need to test the product with the desired parts that come with it not a fair review, even if it comes up negitive still its part of the product
@@xboxrlz +1 I agree Brian did not do this review properly, I used the Xtreme IV on my Galax RTX 2080Ti HOF OC Lab edition for a few months and could do 2175-2190 mhz core and +1000mhz with no vrm or memory temp issues, the backplate works good enough to cool those components down.
You did not read the manual m8 XD You did use BOTH washers simultaneously when likely using one is enough (going by RX570) 6:03 you crank the screws hard enough to BEND the mounting plate The black heatsink acts as both backplate and VRM/memory heatsink, this "fixes" the memory heatsink clearance problem around the cooler and makes mounting faster. Though it leaves the VRM hotter than it needs to be. You put that on by tracing hotspots on the protective film and cut the heatspots out, place in thermalpads and sandwich all with the backplate/heatsink provided Id say 7/10 solution, instead of redoing the cooler from scratch to leave more space around the GPU area, they keep the old one and slap a fat heatsink on the other side. On one hand that will stiffen your card and minimize gpu sag with the added bracket, on the other it CAN bend your PCB quite severely as the backplate cant move far enough on some cards with an IO facing VRM to squish the thick thermal pads together
Can already tell its good, I have it on one of my rx5700xt, temp is much better than any of the aib models. Only downside is you need low profile ram on even atx board, the backplate fins have clearance issue with the ram.
You missed the massive backplate cooler that is made for cooling memory using the attached pads... With the back cooler, memory temps are up to 10 degrees better...
That insulating film for the back plate is (I believe) a mica film. electrically insulative, thermally conductive. you generally see it used when mounting metal back voltage regulators and FETs to a common heat sync.
Hi Bryan. You should try Rajintek Morpheus II. That is a whole different beast compared to Accelero. 12.5 million screws are there to sandwich PCB better, improve rigidity, and prevent GPU sag. Having only 4 screws like on Accelero really warps the card after a period of time. You need to be careful with installation and don't overtighten the screws or you can bend the card yourself. I had a few Acceleros and other aftermarket coolers and if they are not vertically mounted I always prop them with something just to prevent the weight of the cooler bending the card.
version 3 does still come with the heatsinks and thermal adhesive. also note the fan speed is only 2000 rpm at 100%. if you had 3 fans at 4000 rpm it would be different
You are not the "I thoroughly red manuals before starting" type guy, are you? The back plate is supposed to act as a heatsink that's why you need to cut the film and use the included pads... I'm thinking on installing small heatsinks on my reference RX480 front. I'm not too sure the memory and VRM are getting hot or not with just that back plate acting as heatsink, do you have any temp reference I could use to compare? Thanks for the video!
@@lacucaracha111111 yep, I know, but I don't have a baseline I did the mod in a hurry, I should had tested and get the temps as it was and then repaste the standard blower cooler but I was pretty tired of all the noise and I couldn't be without my PC for too long. I will see if I can get some references from his Artic cooling modded RX480 video.
@@RetroTinkerer VRM likely. Mine was at 95C when just the backplate cooler was on, when I put a heatsink directly onto the VRM it came down to 75c , memory is ok with my RX570
The back plate is paramount to cooling and overclocking. Yes it takes time, but it is needed. I took my nvidia gtx 1070 founders edition, could not overclock it more then 100mhz with the founders cooler, and this is in a case with very good air flow. On the 1070, once the Accelero 4 was fully installed, I was able to get a 200mhz core and memory speed overclock. Without the back plate, the rest of the components over heat like crazy and will not allow overclocking. Before with the founders cooler it ran 74c under load, with the Accelero 4 I was getting 45c. It's an incredible cooler when applied correctly.
Only if you build it wrong... I think you refer to Timmy joe. Check ua-cam.com/video/WGo6s-2RXwo/v-deo.html (German, but temperatures are international)
They sure still ship the little component heatsinks with the Extreme III - I ordered one some months ago and slammed it onto a GTX 1080 Ti. All those 11 memory chips covered, all VRMs, and still some of them left :)
Couldn't you use those washers in between the back plate and the PCB? Wouldn't that provide a little cooling? It's a pretty beerfy looking heatsink. They almost need to provide a thermal pad to protect the back when attaching the back plate. EDIT: Ah, I see Arctic replied below about this issue.
So i decided to clean my old 1070 katana blower😋 Now i have the urge to try and swap in something like a ARCTIC Accelero Mono 120mm if available/cheap. I guess my curiosity is contemplating if it would work to remove the necessary fins from the original copper heatsink and braise/solder the arctic to it. I am curious how the heat would conduct with something like that. cheers from shaun
Pricing in Germany is accelero III: 45,99€ (50,50USD) accelero IV: 48,95€ (53,75USD) It's kinda strange how the IV is much cheaper a d the III is pretty much the same in Germany. I always wonder how local price-differences come up. To me they seem almost unexplainable... Can anyone take a guess?
bro the backplate works really well. You didn't even use it and tossed it aside. Ram and mosfets heat both sides, this takes the heat from the back side with the included thermal pads, then the heat from the front continues to flow to the cooler backside and transfer it, again, to the large backplate. They chose this design because relying on glued on finned heatsink can brick you card (it bricked my 7970) because one of the pads fell off and I had a massive (safe with functioning thermals) oc. It worked for about 6 months then one day in the middle of a game my screen went black. I opened up and saw a heatsink on the bottom of my case then looked at the VRMs and saw a heat discolored spot on the board where it had been off for some time. Was it the glues fault? My fault? Arctics fault? Who knows...What I do know is my 650$ video card was trashed. I got a new card and the new IV cooler. Installed it and have had a gtx 1080 overclocked to 2130 core/512 mem stable for over a year with zero issues. It never gets hotter than 50-55c. My card isn't even a high bin. It's a low end zotec 1080 AMP! edition. Not even the amp extreme. With the stock cooler I couldn't push it over 2,000 for short benching and I left it at 1950 for gaming. So I am disappointed that you disregard this cooler because of your own laziness and lack of effort of simply cutting out some squares on a piece of plastic and putting thermal pads on it.....a simple 5 min job a preschooler could do. Why is this video even in my feed?
I have two Arctic Accelero Xtreme III coolers. I got both in early 2018, one for a GTX 780 and another for a GTX 1080 (I have 4 PCs). The single blower fan Nvidia provided for the cards they themselves released was very noisy while playing GPU demanding games, the difference using the stock coolers and the Arctic Accelero Xtreme III was night and day. I use the program MSI Afterburner to lock the fanspeed of the fans to a low RPM as I'm allergic to noise. All in all the process of removing the stock cooler and installing the new one was a bit scary I have to admit, but the end result was well worth the effort.
Yup, same experience I had using this thing. GPU temps went down Memory temp actually got worse for me on Time Spy by 5-8c. The Artic is really bad at cooling Memory on the 5700XT. It was also a pain in the ass to install, I broke the screw off barley tightening the black plate and had to DIY the thing after that. I decided to scrap it and go back to reference cooler since noise doesn't bother me. It didn't do what I was looking for and made the card Uglier for no Real gain.
I had a IV on a RX480. The backplate really did it's job, it was quite hot after gaming. It was so heavy though. During cleanup install/removal some solder joint gave up and it was dead (the gpu sagged a bit). No warranty after removing the stock cooler. Had to eat that one.
Imho I think you're underestimating the Accalero a bit there aswell as e.g. Timmy Joe does. From a reasonable standpoint considering the price and the given performance you*re better off not using it. On that case I'm with you Bro. But from a geeky standpoint I do think that the Accelero could be worth a shot IF you take on the quest of modding the backplate to fit the gravis card aswell as ditching the foil. The main reason my mind flows this wave is that with GDDR6 the Die is closer to the PCB since it is a flip chip design. So I do believe that when you get the backplate to fit there should be quite an improvement to temperatures for the memory aswell as maybe even to the vrms.
Before I watch the video I already know it's going to be a huge improvement. I put one of these bad boys on an R9 290 and it was able to tame that no issues.
It's always a good sign when a company puts the support contact website directly on the side of the card so you can always see it... with a QR code for people who cant read.
Remember my ATI 5870 i added an Arctic 3 Fan cooler on that one and it was so silent at 100% speed but in normal usage it never went above 10% fan speed and you really couldn't even notice the noise from it and was really chilly :D tho the heatsinks they had back then loved to fall off
Brian you should build it like the manufacturer suggests then we would get a clearer understanding of how the kit was intended to perform. Then, if you want, make your own mods then retest. I know that 3 tests would be exorbitant but it would give consumers a better understanding of the true performance of the product.
You can blow heat to the blower coolers and take off their metal vrm vram metal plate and install it to card, then the accelero Back plate isn't worthless. It does a lot of cooling ;) mine reaches 62C with no fan on top backplate. With a fan it's at 53... And there is no risk for backplate. Its well isolated with that film. Vrams vrms do all heat the back plate.
I bought a reference 5700xt for $300 and I'm thinking about buying something like this. Temperatures aren't an issue but it does get noisy af when pushed to it's full potential.
Bykski 5700xt full cover waterblock is under $80 usd on Alidirect. Typically around $75. Performance wise its significantly better than any AIB air cooling. It also installs easily. If your planning to watercool or already have a custom loop, a full cover waterblock for ~75 usd is a no brainer
How many PCIe slots does that thing take up? I'm counting 3 for the main unit (including GPU), and 2 at the back. I thought the XFX THICC II was oversized, but this is ridiculous! That thing will never fit next to a large CPU cooler like a Nortua NH-D14, with those massive thumb screws (they've invented compact thumb screws, they're called screws😉). Seems like a good idea, implemented badly. Speaking of which, you wonder why GPU's need so many screws these days, but then I remember a time, a simpler time when GPU's didn't have fans (and memory was measured in megabytes...).
Hi YESman, What about the Rajintek Morpheus II? While it doesn't come with any fans, it does come with heatsinks for memory, VRMs, etc., thermal paste and self-adhesive thermal pads... it looks better too in my opinion, I'm really no fan of the mid-90s flair and aesthetics of the arctic one
IMHO the Morpheus is better on Vega 64 non AIB. The A IV works great if built properly ua-cam.com/video/WGo6s-2RXwob/v-deo.html (German, but good to understand as the temps are on screen)
Tech yes City: There are ways to mod a desktop atx cpu cooler such as a noctua or cooler master 212 hyper evo onto a graphics card. There are some videos of it on UA-cam. Could you compare that to this and to maybe a custom rigged AIO 240mm rad jerry rigged to the gpu? Would it be worth it to tie a 240mm aio or massive air cooler? Obviously you'd need fans for the vrms and other components.
dont know if anyone interested still ... im a "day 1" user of 5700XT + AC IV and i must say, i could keep the GPU on stable 2110MHz (set to 2170/1.250V) but the mems are going bat nuts insane reaching 100C no probs, even when i added to backfans and a custom made shroud on the backside plate (one fans suck air in, the other out) i couldnt keep them at a "acceptable" level. So now im running it on 2140/1.230 (ingame its about 2070-2080) and keeping the temps at bay at 90C. Will soon switch to water, still a fun experience. Not to forget, power is set to +30%. One thing i want to mention, my GPU now looks like a snake, because the "preferred" tightening ("dont tight it too much") was making the cooling really bad, just had to screw it really tight and surprise surprise, card bend to snakelike form and running cooler
in many cases you can remove your graphics card front plate, i had a blower card and it was relatively easy to remove the front plate from it and use it with the artic accelero
Thjose little radiators wont fall off after sometime? You know, thermal paste will try out (thermopads too), falling off radiator can make short circuit on PCB. Why aftermarket radiators are soo high and not pushing smaller radiators?
I bought a 1080 FE without a cooler (waterblock) and I ordered a Aceelero because it seemed better and easier than the Morpheus. I will probably put the back plate on and I hope it will work well for me :O
I'm so confused about how to install the accelero 3, the plate doesn't fit around the gpu socket with my vanilla rx5700. So my hotspot temp instantly reaches 110c under load.
Cheap Chinese water block. I added one to my GTX 1080 Ti and left the mid heat spreading plate and back plate in place with added heat sinks to cool VRM and memory. Works really well.
Waiting for my accelero III , going to put it on GTX 1080 TI blower edition, been using this card for a year now, and setting it to 100% to get 72C in 22C ambient room isn't good at all. It's very loud, but i don't want to keep it toasty, I wish i could get that cooler cheaper. Paid 85eur and it was cheapest option from UK to Europe. Still damn expensive
Do you use the thermal compound that comes with the Arctic coolers, or do you replace it with your own? I'm just wondering. I have used them before, which they're fantastic, and plan to again on my current card.
Fans on the Accelero coolers have been problematic for years, especially on the older models (Mono Plus, Twin Turbo II and Xtreme III). For example on Nvidia cards the PWM control of the fans is completely broken with the fan ramping to maximum speeds and/or the fan speed is jumping all over the place. My GTX 1070 with Accelero Mono Plus usually ramped to maximum speeds at boot, and only way to get the rpm to sane numbers was by manually setting the fan speed % to around 70% and then switching it down to 25%. And 0% didn't shut down the fan, it just went back to 100% speeds which was annoying as the stock card had semi-passive stock cooling. In the end I ripped out the stock Accelero Mono fan and replaced it with the trusty AC F12 that was left over from previous projects. Zip-ties to the rescue and now everything runs nice and quiet.
Those blue pads aren't touching anything! Shouldn't those go between the mem and BACKPLATE? As that's the side GDDR6 heats the most?? (Hence the poor mem cooling cuz you put them on the VRM doing nothing?) your video description says *Will update if the lil heatsinks are included with the 3 soon* Maybe install the the damn thing correctly and do an update?
If I bought this cooler second hand and been used on a different GPU (meaning they cut the plastic film at different spots) where can i buy this kinda plastic film? Or what is called?
One question. I did the same mod on asus tuf 5700 xt. How did you connect the fans from the accelero to the fan header on the pcb? I can t...fan header on pcb has 7 pins A solution would be very helpful
That backplate is good for memory cooling(gddr6 memor die is near the bottom not the top) and the gpu die but its needs thick thermal pads between to not shorting out the card and is hard to measure those points.And in my coyntry Artic Accelero cost 62€ so its much cheaper to buy custom card with good cooling.
Its a me Tech Yessa Mariioo
It was more of a mix between Mario and Borat lol.
@@rhyzon here is peach, myyyy wiiiife
Im Sorry Tech Yessa Mario, the good deals are in another Castle.
When i really read it with mario accent lol
Lyle's Italian Cousin :)
Tech YES the Accelero Xtreme III comes with included heatsinks 😉
The washer problem should be fixed when the backplate is installed and connected to the backside through the thermal pads, which provides additional cooling for the frontside components of the card, through the PCB (RAM, VRMs, etc.).
But we will take a closer look at the washer situation 🙋♂️
ARCTIC well you have a new customer I am going to buy one for the Rx580
@Arctic Brian did not build it properly, I used several coolers especially the IV cools great (RX 480/580). Keep up your great products. May be you can order a Vega 64 one, too. IMHO only the Morpheus works.
@@mr_tea753 ! get the III one , not the IV. It can actually bend your PCB depending on your GPUs VRM location and the thermal pads being thiccccc.
Be sure to measure twice and glue the heatsinks on once, as the cooler may partially block some memory. (Issues with "1 size fits all" coolers)
R9 390 with Accelero Xtreme IV...delta on gpu core is around 40C....(from around 95 to 55-56 max)...pcb and mem temps around 69C with instaled backplate and termalpads under it
@@ThePeperich I have a morpheus on a vega 64 a few things to note: Mofsets are cooled by included aluminium heatsinks and does not come with a backplate like the accelero. It does not come with fans, Included are wire clips to attatch fans, this makes it a huge pia to install the card, i bent a few fins and scratched the finish installing the card and had to adjust the fans in a tight cramped case. It does not come with a vga fancable/ adapter so you have to order one. The morphius looks better than the arctic until you attach fans once its got fans its quite ugly. The morpheus is HUGE it take about 3.5 slots or 3 slots with low profile fans. Its cooling however is out of this world. I ended up Modifying (grinding / cutting away material) the reference base plate to fit under the cooler as the base plate cools the mofsets on the 64, it gave me a way to hid the fan cables and i think it looks better than bare pcb with heatcsinks glued on.
"i didnt read the instruction, bodged the job and it didnt work out well... heres how Arctic can improve on the poor job i did myself"
Bryan...... Bryan. The back plate is the heatsink for the components the thermal pads go over the back side of the vram and vrm and back plate cools them from the back side of them. Its not as effective but still works and is not permanent like the 3's thermal glue. Still love you man. LOL.
Love it how he doesn't give a f about the manual and just made a "diy" extreme 3
Right I agree
I've had this cooler with the backplate version, trust Bryan mate, it really is a terrible idea, also what makes this backplate so useless is the fact that the "fins" are arranged perpendicularly with the length of the card rather than just going across, reason being that in the latter the case fans would at least help provide a bit of airflow, its a dumb design and i would strongly recommend that you get heatsinks like Bryan did + you get to keep the original backplate of the card which is a + for the looks
edit: also as a side note for those who dont like the artic acelero cheap logo sticker at the front, you can actually detach the fan piece from the heatsink and rotate it to the other side that's another + for the looks for anyone that cares
@@vladduh3164 like i said I know its not as effective but my point was that he totally missed the point of the whole design and how to put it together even though he said he read the instructions but clearly he didnt start from "step 1". I just thought it was funny. I would never buy a "IV" variant of that cooler. Ive owned the "III" but i dont like the heatsinks are permanently glued on. When it came time to sell my 980 ti I had to sell it cheaper than I could than if i could of put the Zotac Amp cooler back on.
@@maynardcrow6447 he did say he was going to pretend he had got the v III because it was too inconvenient and risky to put that back plate on as he would have to measure and cut that plastic according to the position of the memory modules and vrms 3:30
Also, the heatsinks dont have to be permanently glued, that stuff does come off if you pry it carefully, i have even used artic silver's thermal adhesive which is pretty much an epoxy and that stuff sticks on pretty well I had to use some very fine razer blades and a bit of heat but i got all of the heatsinks off eventually and even put the stock cooler back on (which you should definitely never get rid of, just stick in a box somewhere) and it all works fine no problem, didnt affect the resale vale nor have I had anyone complain about a faulty gpu, and mind i have actually done this more than once.
That backplate is there to cool your memory and VRM.... I can't believe you did not install it. I'm running this cooler on my GPU and that backplate is awesome it really helps a lot.
+1 Used it for a while on my Galax RTX 2080Ti HOF OC Lab edition and no issues :) have a look> imgur.com/a/ujQJ16g
Gamer Nexus points out in several of his videos that the GDDR6 has its die on the base of the chip. So one would assume that cooling the back of the board, would improve significantly their temps.
There's a pcb with plastic inbetween that and the thermal pad when cooled from the back..
Duuhhh... of course till be worse when cooled from the back.
Yes the backplate helps a lot on these cards.
This...
Although it isn't as effective as the heatsinks on the front of the chips, most manufacturers are using thermal pads with backplates for GDDR6, and the ones who don't typically have memory thermal issues.
@@RBsRealm you should cut a hole in the plastic...have to cooler and the backpalate helps a lot with vrm/vram temps
Yea not the greatest choice in this day in age to not use a backplate. If a gpu has gddr6 which going in the future they all will backplate cooling is only going to help. I dont buy gpus with out one they just look like they are missing something and of course to me reveled PCB just looks terrible.
That opening was the most cringe thing you've ever done, and I loved it 😂😂
Dylan Bortolus 😂😂😂
Luigi with a Japanese-Italian accent 😬
@@KunaiKrazy But. Do his hand gestures have an accent as well?
Arctic Accelero Xtreme Vl. Had him on my good old power moded GTX 1060. Imo the backplate is important. It gets pretty toasty which means it works and takes a lot of heat away, especially from the vrms. My 1060 Never went beyond 45° Celsius, although cranked to 2189mhz and 1,093v.
The backplate is very important indeed, but the clearance issue is gonna be a problem for most people XD
1.93v? You sure that isn't a typo?
@@thetrashman5252 yeah i missed a 0. Now its correct
@@Squilliam-Fancyson That is a very impressive overclock, I didn't realize that the 1060 was primarily power limited, changed mine to a 5700xt a week ago.
@@thetrashman5252 yeah it was quite nice for a budget card.(Palit GTX 1060 Dual) You can easily see its power limited with GPU - Z (perfcap reason pwr). After performing the power mod, by soldering some additional 0805 smd resistors onto the existing ones of the power controller (the Kingpin method, which is safer then applying liquid metal onto the shunts) this no longer happens, as the cards sensor only will show around 20% tdp at highest. The biggest limit is temp tough. Pascal mostly scales with temperature. Keeping the card below 48° Celsius is crucial to achieve sustained clocks of 2151mhz+, at least it was for mine. Under 38° i could even achieve beyond 2200mhz. At this clock speed 5000 point graphic score at time spy is possible, which is almost GTX 1070(stock) territory .
The reason the memory temps on the Accelero are so high is because the GDDR6 die is closer to the bottom of the chip than the top. I’d try sticking more mini heatsinks on the back of the card over the memory and see if that improves temps.
Or I have a really stupid Idea...hmm...how about using the MASSIVE backplate heat sink with the heat pads. You know, that "worthless" stuff that he so easily dismissed right from the start. Just a thought.
@@d1oftwins not the first time a youtuber thinks they know better than the public or the company making the product
@@d1oftwins Did this didn't improve Memory temps were worse then reference cooler. Have pics of it.
Btw ... the backplate for the accelero is made to cool the memory too , but from the back .
You can check timmy joe's video
Yep, the backplate actally cools the memory and the VRMs.
No need for extra heatsinks on the top them.
Better check PC Games Hardware ua-cam.com/video/WGo6s-2RXwo/v-deo.html (German but temps and sounds are international).
@GreasyPlopper just cut the part that was in conflict with the ram off, you cant see it from the front anyway.
Another great video mate, and great how you've made that cooler work better. But next time, please install it how the manufacturer intended and get some stats from that, then do it your way, just to prove a point. I'm sure others would be interested also.
Keep them coming.
The ribbed backplate is very effective if installed correctly. You must cut cutouts for hot components to the insulating layer and install these fat thermalpads in these cutouts. Then inspect that there are no shorting. Blackplate gets hot and cools card if installation is successuful. I have installed about 10 Accelero IV s for 1080 ti and 2080 ti s. These are mostly mining cards. Dead silent on mining and makes very little noise in gaming. So, my point is that the ribbed baclplate are not pointless. Another point for baclplate is that its very easy to restore videocards factory condition. Nothing is clued to the card.
Interesting findings man. Good video!
Need of the day ! Great video !
Ever since my AMD 7950 slowly eroded by gentle overclock...I never overclock GPUs anymore
on arctic accelero xtreme iv does not include micro heatsinks. I bought some myself a while back, but it includes the huge backplate for cooling VRM.
It's much better than III version, but it will eat 1.5-2 slots from the backplate. Which can overlap memory slots on some motherboards. Check clearance.
GDDR6 is a "flip-chip" design, so all the heat is at the PCB side, not the top. I wonder if putting some heatsinks on the backside of the PCB where the memory is would drop the temps. Maybe even using adding 2mm thermal pads on the back of the PCB, and using the Accelero's included backplate, as it looks like it has a fair amount of cooling capacity. Just my thoughts though. o7
it definitely would improve memory temps
Well that's the whole idea behind this cooler...
I had a double fan Arctic cooler on my MSI HD 6850 1GB back in the day. The original heatsink was just a black chunk of aluminium with a fan and nothing else. After installing the Arctic cooler, it added two years onto my card's life. It even came with the glue TIM with little heatsinks for the VRam.
I thought the rear heatsink was suppose to help pull away heat from the VRMs and Memory. I used to use it with a huge thermal pad instead of a thin plastic isolation layer.
It is exactly for that. He didn't read the manual and totally screw the installation of the cooler.
@@hungalas1 a huge thermal pad wont hurt but it doesn't help either just expensive
around memory, gpu and vrm with a bit of overhang about 10 to 20% more area is plenty enough
@@hungalas1 Only if you put some kind of heatsink on the thermal pad.
Just put the Accelero III on my 1070 about 3 weeks ago and they still come with the heatsinks and love the performance.
LOL everytime a channel buys this cooler they dont use the backplate.
Too much people are just dumb. This backplate works. I used such a backplate in the past. And it was better than the sh!t MSI shipped on their custom trash card.
Does it work with "This" exact card here, the 5700XT ? I cannot say. But i saw several videos now featuring this cooler and like you said, no one uses it. And no one explains why exactly!
Someone might expect some "professionalism" from some tech YTbers....
Love your videos as always Yes Man, but you can't really properly judge the item when you don't install it properly can you?
I can highly recommend to ghettomod a CPU-cooler for the gpu while keeping the "frontplate" of the reference cooler for cooling the VRM and VRAM. I'm currently cooling my R9 290X with the first gen arctic cooling freezer 7 pro and it tops out at around 75C overclocked to 1120Mhz on the core. I never even believed the small tower cooler would outperform a aftermarket GPU cooler but it actually does. The tricky part is to make a bracket to fit the cooler to gpu. I made one out of wood and used (I think it was) some longer M3 screws and sealed them with some regular motherboards standoffs. It was pure luck that the M3 screw was just long enough the standoffs could give the perfect amount of mounting pressure.
I'm kind of interested in buying the cheapest RX 5700 reference model and maybe buy a gammaxx 400 cooler for it.
The scetchy part though is that I have to run the fan on a motherboard fan header and control it through a third party app that reads the gpu temperature.
However it's waaay cheaper than a "proper" aftermarke gpu cooler while performing even better.
It would be super cool if cpu cooler manufacturers where providing mounting brackets for gpus as well as cpus.
Best channel to my taste.
Keep it up yes!!!😄😄
You don't have to use the plastic. When you apply the thermal pads to the back, they are thick and space the backplate out from the PCB, so that it isn't just touching everything and creates shorts.
i bought an Extreme 3 about half a year ago, and yes the heatsinks and thermal glue is still included in the 3. the assumption they made on the 4 is that "you won't need these heatsinks because of the huge heatsink/backplate".
Great channel, videos on the point with no waste of time to advertise anything. thumbs up
Bro you need to explain this better, really like why not just go according to the instructions
@6:04 Yeah, that cooler mount bracket has bent so far in, the mounting pressure and contact will be very weak. That means the accelero V4 is a complete failure design-wise. They need to make sure their brackets are actually strong enough to maintain the mounting pressure.
I have the same card and same third party cooler.
One problem I found (if you actually used a PC case) is that the supporting bracket that you can install onto the card to prevent sagging actually gets blocked by the PCB closest to the ports. I solved this by making a cutout using a dremel. Another problem was that the thermal pads don't adhere well and because the card is usually placed upside down, they pretty much fell off. Still, the temperatures are good and under stress test it is only the GPU itself that hits over 90 degrees. It is a lot more silent compared to a blower cooler ramping up all the time, but I couldn't get Afterburner to increase the fan speed (percentage went up, but tachometer readings didn't). A worthwhile upgrade if you accidently got the blower instead of some proper double/triple fans, but not perfectly easy to install either.
Wow I realy need a compilation of your intros ahah
GDDR6 comes in a "flip chip" packaging design, which means that the hottest running parts of the silicone inside the cheap are orientated towards the back of the PCB, not the front. Thus a functional backplate is actually very important to keep internal memory temps under control. Running the card without a backplate will have detrimental effect on the lifetime of the memory chips.
Fantastic job, fantastic video... regards from Mexico.
I'm a little late to the party here, but there is another reason for the accelero that you didn't mention. I bought a brand new msi gtx 1080 ti sea hawk from ebay that comes with a water block but I want air cooling so I got an accelero III. The 1080 ti was $50 usd and the accelero III was $65, so $115 usd for a 1080 ti in 2020 is a great deal.
There is a way to clip memory heatsinks down against the pcb so you dont have to use a curing paste and get better mounting pressure. Next you should try the Alphacool Eiswolf GPX AIO for the 5700xt. It supposedly keeps everything cool even tho the liquid only hits the die directly, but ive heard only anecdotal evidence.
The memory and VRM are supposed to be cooled by the back plate via thermal pads. The material the memory chips are made from is a poor thermal conductor so the tiny heatsinks you've added to the top don't do much, most of the heat is transferred via pins (or more technicaly, balls) to the PCB.
I fitted the Accelero IV to a GTX 1070ti, as I got one with a bad stock cooler, though it was fairly cheap.. I used heatsinks on the front in addition to the massive backplate heatsink and it does work very well. That backplate gets very hot during stresstest, which means it is sinking a lot of heat away from the card. It's kind of in a rough spot in the case though, wedged between the GPU and CPU cooler so the airflow there isn't exactly optimal, only way to address that would be if you have a computer case with a fan in the side panel above the GPU...
mate cant comment about backplate with out trying it out first
You can if you look at it vs the stock fan speeds on the reference, the temps of the memory go up significantly and when on 100% they come down significantly, this was the same case on the 5700 non xt without a backplate.
@@techyescity nah you need to test the product with the desired parts that come with it not a fair review, even if it comes up negitive still its part of the product
@@xboxrlz +1 I agree Brian did not do this review properly, I used the Xtreme IV on my Galax RTX 2080Ti HOF OC Lab edition for a few months and could do 2175-2190 mhz core and +1000mhz with no vrm or memory temp issues, the backplate works good enough to cool those components down.
You did not read the manual m8 XD
You did use BOTH washers simultaneously when likely using one is enough (going by RX570)
6:03 you crank the screws hard enough to BEND the mounting plate
The black heatsink acts as both backplate and VRM/memory heatsink, this "fixes" the memory heatsink clearance problem around the cooler and makes mounting faster. Though it leaves the VRM hotter than it needs to be.
You put that on by tracing hotspots on the protective film and cut the heatspots out, place in thermalpads and sandwich all with the backplate/heatsink provided
Id say 7/10 solution, instead of redoing the cooler from scratch to leave more space around the GPU area, they keep the old one and slap a fat heatsink on the other side.
On one hand that will stiffen your card and minimize gpu sag with the added bracket, on the other it CAN bend your PCB quite severely as the backplate cant move far enough on some cards with an IO facing VRM to squish the thick thermal pads together
You need the backplate, the backplate is very important for those component in the back because they last 2000h on 105c
Can already tell its good, I have it on one of my rx5700xt, temp is much better than any of the aib models. Only downside is you need low profile ram on even atx board, the backplate fins have clearance issue with the ram.
Btw the backplate works very well, a shame you didnt use it. I'd get a cutter and cut out the fins that have clearance issue.
I bought a 5700xt for $300 at microcenter. If I buy the accelero IV it's still $100 cheaper than the other AIB triple fan models.
You missed the massive backplate cooler that is made for cooling memory using the attached pads...
With the back cooler, memory temps are up to 10 degrees better...
That insulating film for the back plate is (I believe) a mica film. electrically insulative, thermally conductive. you generally see it used when mounting metal back voltage regulators and FETs to a common heat sync.
Hi Bryan. You should try Rajintek Morpheus II. That is a whole different beast compared to Accelero. 12.5 million screws are there to sandwich PCB better, improve rigidity, and prevent GPU sag. Having only 4 screws like on Accelero really warps the card after a period of time. You need to be careful with installation and don't overtighten the screws or you can bend the card yourself. I had a few Acceleros and other aftermarket coolers and if they are not vertically mounted I always prop them with something just to prevent the weight of the cooler bending the card.
You can take the plastic spacers and mod the stock cooler by putting them under the cross brace. I've seen a 10°c GPU temp drop.
version 3 does still come with the heatsinks and thermal adhesive. also note the fan speed is only 2000 rpm at 100%. if you had 3 fans at 4000 rpm it would be different
You are not the "I thoroughly red manuals before starting" type guy, are you?
The back plate is supposed to act as a heatsink that's why you need to cut the film and use the included pads... I'm thinking on installing small heatsinks on my reference RX480 front. I'm not too sure the memory and VRM are getting hot or not with just that back plate acting as heatsink, do you have any temp reference I could use to compare?
Thanks for the video!
HW info can show you VRM and mem temps if your GPU has them
@@lacucaracha111111 yep, I know, but I don't have a baseline I did the mod in a hurry, I should had tested and get the temps as it was and then repaste the standard blower cooler but I was pretty tired of all the noise and I couldn't be without my PC for too long. I will see if I can get some references from his Artic cooling modded RX480 video.
@@RetroTinkerer VRM likely. Mine was at 95C when just the backplate cooler was on, when I put a heatsink directly onto the VRM it came down to 75c , memory is ok with my RX570
The back plate is paramount to cooling and overclocking. Yes it takes time, but it is needed. I took my nvidia gtx 1070 founders edition, could not overclock it more then 100mhz with the founders cooler, and this is in a case with very good air flow. On the 1070, once the Accelero 4 was fully installed, I was able to get a 200mhz core and memory speed overclock. Without the back plate, the rest of the components over heat like crazy and will not allow overclocking. Before with the founders cooler it ran 74c under load, with the Accelero 4 I was getting 45c. It's an incredible cooler when applied correctly.
Wasn't there another test that said the Artic Accelero on the 5700XT worse than OEM heatsink and fans?
Only if you build it wrong... I think you refer to Timmy joe. Check ua-cam.com/video/WGo6s-2RXwo/v-deo.html (German, but temperatures are international)
They sure still ship the little component heatsinks with the Extreme III - I ordered one some months ago and slammed it onto a GTX 1080 Ti. All those 11 memory chips covered, all VRMs, and still some of them left :)
Couldn't you use those washers in between the back plate and the PCB? Wouldn't that provide a little cooling? It's a pretty beerfy looking heatsink. They almost need to provide a thermal pad to protect the back when attaching the back plate.
EDIT: Ah, I see Arctic replied below about this issue.
Card has GDDR6, this is has a flipchip design on a thermal pad on the back and a heat-sync on the back will make a notice difference
So i decided to clean my old 1070 katana blower😋
Now i have the urge to try and swap in something like a ARCTIC Accelero Mono 120mm if available/cheap.
I guess my curiosity is contemplating if it would work to remove the necessary fins from the original copper heatsink and braise/solder the arctic to it. I am curious how the heat would conduct with something like that.
cheers from shaun
Seems like Drunken Brian before intro lol :D
is there anyway to mod the 3 Arctic fans to ref heatsink?
Pricing in Germany is
accelero III: 45,99€ (50,50USD)
accelero IV: 48,95€ (53,75USD)
It's kinda strange how the IV is much cheaper a d the III is pretty much the same in Germany. I always wonder how local price-differences come up. To me they seem almost unexplainable...
Can anyone take a guess?
same here: 3-4€ more for the IV
bro the backplate works really well. You didn't even use it and tossed it aside. Ram and mosfets heat both sides, this takes the heat from the back side with the included thermal pads, then the heat from the front continues to flow to the cooler backside and transfer it, again, to the large backplate.
They chose this design because relying on glued on finned heatsink can brick you card (it bricked my 7970) because one of the pads fell off and I had a massive (safe with functioning thermals) oc. It worked for about 6 months then one day in the middle of a game my screen went black. I opened up and saw a heatsink on the bottom of my case then looked at the VRMs and saw a heat discolored spot on the board where it had been off for some time. Was it the glues fault? My fault? Arctics fault? Who knows...What I do know is my 650$ video card was trashed.
I got a new card and the new IV cooler. Installed it and have had a gtx 1080 overclocked to 2130 core/512 mem stable for over a year with zero issues. It never gets hotter than 50-55c. My card isn't even a high bin. It's a low end zotec 1080 AMP! edition. Not even the amp extreme. With the stock cooler I couldn't push it over 2,000 for short benching and I left it at 1950 for gaming.
So I am disappointed that you disregard this cooler because of your own laziness and lack of effort of simply cutting out some squares on a piece of plastic and putting thermal pads on it.....a simple 5 min job a preschooler could do. Why is this video even in my feed?
I have two Arctic Accelero Xtreme III coolers. I got both in early 2018, one for a GTX 780 and another for a GTX 1080 (I have 4 PCs). The single blower fan Nvidia provided for the cards they themselves released was very noisy while playing GPU demanding games, the difference using the stock coolers and the Arctic Accelero Xtreme III was night and day.
I use the program MSI Afterburner to lock the fanspeed of the fans to a low RPM as I'm allergic to noise. All in all the process of removing the stock cooler and installing the new one was a bit scary I have to admit, but the end result was well worth the effort.
Finally a video on Arctic Accelero on 5700 XT. THANKS A LOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yup, same experience I had using this thing. GPU temps went down Memory temp actually got worse for me on Time Spy by 5-8c. The Artic is really bad at cooling Memory on the 5700XT. It was also a pain in the ass to install, I broke the screw off barley tightening the black plate and had to DIY the thing after that.
I decided to scrap it and go back to reference cooler since noise doesn't bother me. It didn't do what I was looking for and made the card Uglier for no Real gain.
I had a IV on a RX480. The backplate really did it's job, it was quite hot after gaming. It was so heavy though. During cleanup install/removal some solder joint gave up and it was dead (the gpu sagged a bit). No warranty after removing the stock cooler. Had to eat that one.
Imho I think you're underestimating the Accalero a bit there aswell as e.g. Timmy Joe does. From a reasonable standpoint considering the price and the given performance you*re better off not using it. On that case I'm with you Bro. But from a geeky standpoint I do think that the Accelero could be worth a shot IF you take on the quest of modding the backplate to fit the gravis card aswell as ditching the foil. The main reason my mind flows this wave is that with GDDR6 the Die is closer to the PCB since it is a flip chip design. So I do believe that when you get the backplate to fit there should be quite an improvement to temperatures for the memory aswell as maybe even to the vrms.
Before I watch the video I already know it's going to be a huge improvement. I put one of these bad boys on an R9 290 and it was able to tame that no issues.
It's always a good sign when a company puts the support contact website directly on the side of the card so you can always see it... with a QR code for people who cant read.
I know a lot of people have told you this, but please redo the test with the backplate so the memory is cooled as well.
No way to keep the original backplate on with the mod?
Remember my ATI 5870 i added an Arctic 3 Fan cooler on that one and it was so silent at 100% speed but in normal usage it never went above 10% fan speed and you really couldn't even notice the noise from it and was really chilly :D tho the heatsinks they had back then loved to fall off
did it die at some point?
@@milchkopf3881 It´s still alive and i have it in my house :) not using it anymore it still works
Brian you should build it like the manufacturer suggests then we would get a clearer understanding of how the kit was intended to perform. Then, if you want, make your own mods then retest. I know that 3 tests would be exorbitant but it would give consumers a better understanding of the true performance of the product.
You can blow heat to the blower coolers and take off their metal vrm vram metal plate and install it to card, then the accelero
Back plate isn't worthless. It does a lot of cooling ;) mine reaches 62C with no fan on top backplate. With a fan it's at 53...
And there is no risk for backplate. Its well isolated with that film. Vrams vrms do all heat the back plate.
I bought a reference 5700xt for $300 and I'm thinking about buying something like this. Temperatures aren't an issue but it does get noisy af when pushed to it's full potential.
Buildzoid recons the reference PCB is good enough for water cooling. Is there any 'value' water coolers out there?
I did some research on aftermarket coolers for my rx580 but I figured it would be better to get a more expensive gpu. I’m happy with my current rig
The thermal pads with no coolers on them actually insulate the chips from air flow :/
Bykski 5700xt full cover waterblock is under $80 usd on Alidirect. Typically around $75. Performance wise its significantly better than any AIB air cooling. It also installs easily.
If your planning to watercool or already have a custom loop, a full cover waterblock for ~75 usd is a no brainer
Ik I'm late but when you travel back to Australia how do you fit your hardware in your suitcase to avoid damaging them?
hi Brian great video as usual. what is the thermal paste you used for the little heat sinks that hardens thanks as that will come in useful for me
How many PCIe slots does that thing take up? I'm counting 3 for the main unit (including GPU), and 2 at the back. I thought the XFX THICC II was oversized, but this is ridiculous!
That thing will never fit next to a large CPU cooler like a Nortua NH-D14, with those massive thumb screws (they've invented compact thumb screws, they're called screws😉).
Seems like a good idea, implemented badly. Speaking of which, you wonder why GPU's need so many screws these days, but then I remember a time, a simpler time when GPU's didn't have fans (and memory was measured in megabytes...).
Hi YESman,
What about the Rajintek Morpheus II? While it doesn't come with any fans, it does come with heatsinks for memory, VRMs, etc., thermal paste and self-adhesive thermal pads... it looks better too in my opinion, I'm really no fan of the mid-90s flair and aesthetics of the arctic one
IMHO the Morpheus is better on Vega 64 non AIB. The A IV works great if built properly ua-cam.com/video/WGo6s-2RXwob/v-deo.html (German, but good to understand as the temps are on screen)
Tech yes City: There are ways to mod a desktop atx cpu cooler such as a noctua or cooler master 212 hyper evo onto a graphics card. There are some videos of it on UA-cam. Could you compare that to this and to maybe a custom rigged AIO 240mm rad jerry rigged to the gpu? Would it be worth it to tie a 240mm aio or massive air cooler? Obviously you'd need fans for the vrms and other components.
dont know if anyone interested still ... im a "day 1" user of 5700XT + AC IV and i must say, i could keep the GPU on stable 2110MHz (set to 2170/1.250V) but the mems are going bat nuts insane reaching 100C no probs, even when i added to backfans and a custom made shroud on the backside plate (one fans suck air in, the other out) i couldnt keep them at a "acceptable" level. So now im running it on 2140/1.230 (ingame its about 2070-2080) and keeping the temps at bay at 90C. Will soon switch to water, still a fun experience. Not to forget, power is set to +30%. One thing i want to mention, my GPU now looks like a snake, because the "preferred" tightening ("dont tight it too much") was making the cooling really bad, just had to screw it really tight and surprise surprise, card bend to snakelike form and running cooler
in many cases you can remove your graphics card front plate, i had a blower card and it was relatively easy to remove the front plate from it and use it with the artic accelero
Thjose little radiators wont fall off after sometime? You know, thermal paste will try out (thermopads too), falling off radiator can make short circuit on PCB. Why aftermarket radiators are soo high and not pushing smaller radiators?
How tall are the acellero III heat sinks? I might as well just buy small heatsinks on their own.
I bought a 1080 FE without a cooler (waterblock) and I ordered a Aceelero because it seemed better and easier than the Morpheus. I will probably put the back plate on and I hope it will work well for me :O
Oh baby. The intro song is back!
I'm so confused about how to install the accelero 3, the plate doesn't fit around the gpu socket with my vanilla rx5700. So my hotspot temp instantly reaches 110c under load.
Cheap Chinese water block. I added one to my GTX 1080 Ti and left the mid heat spreading plate and back plate in place with added heat sinks to cool VRM and memory. Works really well.
Waiting for my accelero III , going to put it on GTX 1080 TI blower edition, been using this card for a year now, and setting it to 100% to get 72C in 22C ambient room isn't good at all. It's very loud, but i don't want to keep it toasty, I wish i could get that cooler cheaper. Paid 85eur and it was cheapest option from UK to Europe. Still damn expensive
Do you use the thermal compound that comes with the Arctic coolers, or do you replace it with your own? I'm just wondering. I have used them before, which they're fantastic, and plan to again on my current card.
Fans on the Accelero coolers have been problematic for years, especially on the older models (Mono Plus, Twin Turbo II and Xtreme III).
For example on Nvidia cards the PWM control of the fans is completely broken with the fan ramping to maximum speeds and/or the fan speed is jumping all over the place. My GTX 1070 with Accelero Mono Plus usually ramped to maximum speeds at boot, and only way to get the rpm to sane numbers was by manually setting the fan speed % to around 70% and then switching it down to 25%. And 0% didn't shut down the fan, it just went back to 100% speeds which was annoying as the stock card had semi-passive stock cooling.
In the end I ripped out the stock Accelero Mono fan and replaced it with the trusty AC F12 that was left over from previous projects. Zip-ties to the rescue and now everything runs nice and quiet.
Those blue pads aren't touching anything!
Shouldn't those go between the mem and BACKPLATE? As that's the side GDDR6 heats the most??
(Hence the poor mem cooling cuz you put them on the VRM doing nothing?)
your video description says *Will update if the lil heatsinks are included with the 3 soon*
Maybe install the the damn thing correctly and do an update?
YESMAN Can you test the Raijintek Morpheous II Black? And compare it to this? It looks so much more modern and sexy. But how does the cooling compare?
what did you applied before appling those small heat sink?
Nothing like a cup of milo and a tech yes video
If I bought this cooler second hand and been used on a different GPU (meaning they cut the plastic film at different spots) where can i buy this kinda plastic film? Or what is called?
One question. I did the same mod on asus tuf 5700 xt. How did you connect the fans from the accelero to the fan header on the pcb? I can t...fan header on pcb has 7 pins
A solution would be very helpful
Can use original back plate or is it just decorative?
I am Italian....at the "hey Mario..." stuff, i did lmao because it was so unexpected!
Lulz.
I have an Artic Freeze AIO on my current system, it comes with 4 fans for a push pull... I love Artic
That backplate is good for memory cooling(gddr6 memor die is near the bottom not the top) and the gpu die but its needs thick thermal pads between to not shorting out the card and is hard to measure those points.And in my coyntry Artic Accelero cost 62€ so its much cheaper to buy custom card with good cooling.