Having restored classic Chevys since 1983, I've tried about every major brand of filler ever offered. PPG, Rage, 3M Platinum, 3M Bazooka Platinum...and by far, without exaggeration, Rage Ultra is the best filler ever. The fact they offer Ultra Extra, which is a huge benefit in the Florida heat and humidity, is even better. This stuff is effing magic.
As an amateur, now on my 3rd can of UPol Premium Dolphin Filler, I now weigh everything. Had a couple of fails on this product, and took me ages to scrape it all off. Its a lovely product for sanding, but mix ratio seems very sensitive compared to other fillers I used...where I never weighed anything before. Weighing certainly helps consistency between the layers with multiple swipes on complex curves.
So many debates over this. Just got off the phone with Tamco they said no filler on bare metal creates heat then condensation on metal and to put over there DTM high build 5310. I do not need epoxy if car is inside all the time it will save you a lot of money just block and top coat your done and still have epoxy properties in the DTM.
Primers are usually porous, so the need to prime before bondo-ing is a moot point. As you say, keep your work dry, and let the base coat do the necessary sealing.
6:53 I thought the hokey pokey was what it's all about. They lied! Great info, as an amateur I've definitely done all those wrong things, but now I wont. 😃
I love how the "professionals" show you how to use a product. Every body shop I have ever been in has a scale. Measure the grams of material for the proper mix. Don't just estimate like this fool. How much extra time does it really take to drop the mixing board on a scale and tare it out. Name 1 other product you mix in a body shop that you don't use some form of measurement such as a scale or graduated cup. At least they got the title correct.
To be fair, i have been doing body and paint work for 18 yrs through 5 different shops and i have never seen anyone add hardener to body filler on a scale. Not a bad idea though
@@jeffdickson125 as an amateur who's got a buddy who's a composite king, he's been giving me tips on this fiberglass project I'm on. And that was one of em, use a scale. I'm playing with polyester resin and just remember the weight I poured ,and then add my thickening agents be it milled glass or microbaloons and then add the hardener. Definitely makes it consistent and I know when it'll start flashing off.
Having restored classic Chevys since 1983, I've tried about every major brand of filler ever offered. PPG, Rage, 3M Platinum, 3M Bazooka Platinum...and by far, without exaggeration, Rage Ultra is the best filler ever. The fact they offer Ultra Extra, which is a huge benefit in the Florida heat and humidity, is even better. This stuff is effing magic.
As an amateur, now on my 3rd can of UPol Premium Dolphin Filler, I now weigh everything. Had a couple of fails on this product, and took me ages to scrape it all off. Its a lovely product for sanding, but mix ratio seems very sensitive compared to other fillers I used...where I never weighed anything before. Weighing certainly helps consistency between the layers with multiple swipes on complex curves.
So many debates over this. Just got off the phone with Tamco they said no filler on bare metal creates heat then condensation on metal and to put over there DTM high build 5310. I do not need epoxy if car is inside all the time it will save you a lot of money just block and top coat your done and still have epoxy properties in the DTM.
Primers are usually porous, so the need to prime before bondo-ing is a moot point. As you say, keep your work dry, and let the base coat do the necessary sealing.
6:53 I thought the hokey pokey was what it's all about.
They lied!
Great info, as an amateur I've definitely done all those wrong things, but now I wont. 😃
I love how the "professionals" show you how to use a product. Every body shop I have ever been in has a scale. Measure the grams of material for the proper mix. Don't just estimate like this fool. How much extra time does it really take to drop the mixing board on a scale and tare it out. Name 1 other product you mix in a body shop that you don't use some form of measurement such as a scale or graduated cup. At least they got the title correct.
I agree weighing is best practice but to be fair the instructions on the can reflect this man's method.
To be fair, i have been doing body and paint work for 18 yrs through 5 different shops and i have never seen anyone add hardener to body filler on a scale. Not a bad idea though
@@jeffdickson125 as an amateur who's got a buddy who's a composite king, he's been giving me tips on this fiberglass project I'm on.
And that was one of em, use a scale.
I'm playing with polyester resin and just remember the weight I poured ,and then add my thickening agents be it milled glass or microbaloons and then add the hardener.
Definitely makes it consistent and I know when it'll start flashing off.
No body weighs body filler. After you do it thousands of times you can get a pretty damn good grasp of how to do it.