Me too! 30 PLUS years now...(personal stuff AND for some resto shops exclusively, as well).....Never too old to learn....Agreed on Chris here as well! He CAN instruct well, he is VERY fast at such as well, PLUS?.......I HAVE NEVER seen anyone hammer as quick as he can either! Lol.....
Hi Chris it's great to see you back again and I hope you had a well deserved break👌another well made video with plenty of content along with detailed voice over which is a huge help to people like myself. After watching you use the Astro gun in your videos a painter friend let me try his out and I loved it and I have a few high end guns but the Astro laid the clear beautifully as good as my Sata and my WS400, I've ordered myself one which is coming from the USA👏👍John UK
I love when guys say “ don’t stir but fold in the hardener to keep air out “. As a chef , that’s exactly how you get air in your food so it’s very hard understanding how that works.
Love your videos, i’m currently stressed at work with all the high volume filler work. Do you have any videos with applying filler on a concave shaped panels?
Not specifically, but that's a good idea. There are some videos that may have some. Go into my bodyfiller playlist you may find some tips. Appreciate your comment and support!
Hi from Geneva Switzerland, very good presentation and informative videos. Do you use sometimes larger sanding blocks like Mirka's in 115x230mm (4,5x9'') on large surfaces and if so are they not too heavy to handle. Cheers Charles
Great video. One thing I've always wondered with the powder guide coat is using filler overtop of a low spot that still has the powder in it. You don't have any bonding issues?
So when adding base, do you cover the primer area than do a med/drop coat on the 600 sanded area or just apply clear over the 600 sanded area to blend it in? I've seen people do it in different ways, so I'm confused
It works well! Cool thing, the manufacturer of the G90e contacted me. I'm want to give them some ideas for a few changes that would make this tool pefect. A shorter and lighter wand would be great.
Im a cleaning kid at a local dealer body shop rn who just helps around because i wanna get into body work for a living. How would u suggest i get into body work professionally?
Chris, I am in a bit of a predicament and I’m need of your assistance. I sprayed white base coat this past Sunday but had issues with gun pressure which caused me to have way too much overspray and made the base coat very rough and also left some tiger stripes on the hood. I know I have to sand and respray a coat of base, but after I sand it what can I clean it with? Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Are you trying to remove the base coat or just clean? To clean after sanding Ibwould start with isopropyl alchol or prep solvent these should not melt the remaining base coat.
@@GarageNoise I’m planning to sand it with 400 grit to remove the roughness from over spray before I shoot another coat since it’s been roughly a week. Don’t want to remove the old base coat, but want it clean after my sanding
I got a question for you Chris but it dint necessarily pertain to this video but products you do use in your video's. When using the finish 1 clear coat and the aeropro 610 gun what pressure are you usually spraying at when using tha combination? Thanks for any info and keep up the great work and keep the video's coming!!!!
Have you used 3m’s platinum plus filler(#01131)? How would you compare it to the upol gold? Another incredible filler from upol is their Dolphin one fill AIO filler(#UP0659).
I’d also recommend using a prep clean solvent rather than isopropyl alcohol, it’s cheaper and a little less aggressive. A good option is Finish 1’s FT200 Surface Cleaner(#GALFT200). All of these products are available at Napa stores that carry automotive paint.
well if you love applying bondo sanding it off and repeating over and over by all means do as shown, this wasnt ready for filler yet, use a sharpie or dykem layout fluid on the metal first then file it or hell even buzz it with the da quickly spend another 5 mins picking lots and save yourself an hour of bondo application and sanding.
@@GarageNoise i mean it would take less time and materials isn’t that what us collision repairers are supposed to do for work restoring to close to pressure citing conditin
i cringe when i c a guy put mud over bare metal i have had to repair prior repairs that were done that way the hardner for the mud and the moisture in the mud attack the bare metal and rust the panel when u encounter this for ur self u will change your steps to repair metal when i started in this industry in the mid 70's mud on the bare metal was the standard of the industry
Maybe I will change my mind at some point, if I do I'll change up my procedures. I honestly have not ever had any issues with that. It's hard to say how something was repaired to cause that. Could have been many things. I agree it's better to have a substrate under the filler but I just don't see it being beneficial enough to justify.
Usually caused by wet sanding primer which is porous. The filler then absorbs the moisture promoting corrosion. Leaving primer on filler for days before painting does the same thing.
No tricks here. More like a 100 ways not to do body filler. It almost killed me watching this. The tape and vac hose says you're a garage guy. First off, no need to go to bare metal. Good fillers stick to oem finish. Second, you need to put an epoxy down on bare metal, then filler. Third. Start at the body line and go one direction. Don't fill over top the body line. Too easy to lose your line. Then sand with a DA. Put the hand block away till the final sand. Way too much work here for such a small job.
Listen, every tech. Does things a little bit differently? Doesn't mean there's a wrong or right way to do it. If you've watched my channel at all, I put filler over oEm paint, I put it over bare metal. I've used epoxy and put body filler over epoxy, but it's not absolutely necessary. You're wrong in that statement. No hate here. If you do things a little bit differently, that's okay. Do it the way you feel comfortable and the way you've proven, From experience that it works properly. And that's what i'm sharing with you here.
Criss . I've been doing paint work for 30 years. Never miss one of Your videos, You're my hero 😂
👊 Thank's brother!
Me too! 30 PLUS years now...(personal stuff AND for some resto shops exclusively, as well).....Never too old to learn....Agreed on Chris here as well! He CAN instruct well, he is VERY fast at such as well, PLUS?.......I HAVE NEVER seen anyone hammer as quick as he can either! Lol.....
@@jamescon55 🤣
Hi Chris it's great to see you back again and I hope you had a well deserved break👌another well made video with plenty of content along with detailed voice over which is a huge help to people like myself.
After watching you use the Astro gun in your videos a painter friend let me try his out and I loved it and I have a few high end guns but the Astro laid the clear beautifully as good as my Sata and my WS400, I've ordered myself one which is coming from the USA👏👍John UK
Awesome!
I never comment on UA-cam videos but I felt compelled to do so this time. Well done.
Thank's brother! appreciate the comment helps the channel grow!
Welcome back. Hope you enjoyed your time away. Thanks for sharing the tips and tricks. 👍
You bet! Appreciate the support!
thanks,man, i am doing body work in one of my projects and you helped me a lot, thank,you
Great to hear! Appreciate the comment!
I love when guys say “ don’t stir but fold in the hardener to keep air out “. As a chef , that’s exactly how you get air in your food so it’s very hard understanding how that works.
Enjoying all your videos. Keep em coming 💯
Thank you! Will do!
Glad you are back!
👍
Great videos as usual. Keep it up!
Thanks!
Love your videos, i’m currently stressed at work with all the high volume filler work. Do you have any videos with applying filler on a concave shaped panels?
Not specifically, but that's a good idea. There are some videos that may have some. Go into my bodyfiller playlist you may find some tips. Appreciate your comment and support!
Great video, very well explained with excellent results
Thank you! Appreciate the comment and support!
Hi from Geneva Switzerland, very good presentation and informative videos. Do you use sometimes larger sanding blocks like Mirka's in 115x230mm (4,5x9'') on large surfaces and if so are they not too heavy to handle. Cheers Charles
I don use wided blocks I think it's just a personal preference.
exactly what needed cheers
Great video. One thing I've always wondered with the powder guide coat is using filler overtop of a low spot that still has the powder in it. You don't have any bonding issues?
I've thought about that as well never seen anything fail because of it but you never know for sure
Great content 👌 thanks for teaching us
👍
So when adding base, do you cover the primer area than do a med/drop coat on the 600 sanded area or just apply clear over the 600 sanded area to blend it in? I've seen people do it in different ways, so I'm confused
My g90e at the shop is on one of those welder carts from HF too 👌 it’s pretty neat
It works well! Cool thing, the manufacturer of the G90e contacted me. I'm want to give them some ideas for a few changes that would make this tool pefect. A shorter and lighter wand would be great.
@@GarageNoise that would be amazing. A handle like the shark would be perfect!!
@@drummer_zay9493 Exactly, short small handle with lightweight slide hammer woul make it much easier to handle. A better ground as well.
@@GarageNoise Absolutely. A magnetic ground would be perfect.
Im a cleaning kid at a local dealer body shop rn who just helps around because i wanna get into body work for a living. How would u suggest i get into body work professionally?
Great work what size tip was on paint gun ?
One of the best videos I've seen on the subject. Clear and simple, right to the point and done correctly..
Put a cover on the tire.
Chris, I am in a bit of a predicament and I’m need of your assistance. I sprayed white base coat this past Sunday but had issues with gun pressure which caused me to have way too much overspray and made the base coat very rough and also left some tiger stripes on the hood. I know I have to sand and respray a coat of base, but after I sand it what can I clean it with? Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Are you trying to remove the base coat or just clean? To clean after sanding Ibwould start with isopropyl alchol or prep solvent these should not melt the remaining base coat.
@@GarageNoise I’m planning to sand it with 400 grit to remove the roughness from over spray before I shoot another coat since it’s been roughly a week. Don’t want to remove the old base coat, but want it clean after my sanding
@@GarageNoise solvent based wax and grease remover should be safe then? I appreciate your repeated help Chris it’s helped so much
Yes great video thanks for sharing 👍
👍Thanks brother!
I got a question for you Chris but it dint necessarily pertain to this video but products you do use in your video's. When using the finish 1 clear coat and the aeropro 610 gun what pressure are you usually spraying at when using tha combination? Thanks for any info and keep up the great work and keep the video's coming!!!!
The masking tape makes me laugh... and that “sander” I’ve zero words
Good tips and tricks 😊JR in 🇨🇦
Thanks JR appreciate the support!
always shows the easiest repairs.
Wnt to see something more difficult?
Awesomeness
👍
Have you used 3m’s platinum plus filler(#01131)? How would you compare it to the upol gold? Another incredible filler from upol is their Dolphin one fill AIO filler(#UP0659).
I’d also recommend using a prep clean solvent rather than isopropyl alcohol, it’s cheaper and a little less aggressive. A good option is Finish 1’s FT200 Surface Cleaner(#GALFT200). All of these products are available at Napa stores that carry automotive paint.
Good informative video
👍
Name of that puller your using
G90e amzn.to/3rmAOui
Appreciate brodi
Good vido, thanks for the tips
Any time!
well if you love applying bondo sanding it off and repeating over and over by all means do as shown, this wasnt ready for filler yet, use a sharpie or dykem layout fluid on the metal first then file it or hell even buzz it with the da quickly spend another 5 mins picking lots and save yourself an hour of bondo application and sanding.
This is collision repair, not a restoration. It it was a restoration might have done some metal finishing.
@@GarageNoise i mean it would take less time and materials isn’t that what us collision repairers are supposed to do for work restoring to close to pressure citing conditin
i cringe when i c a guy put mud over bare metal i have had to repair prior repairs that were done that way the hardner for the mud and the moisture in the mud attack the bare metal and rust the panel when u encounter this for ur self u will change your steps to repair metal when i started in this industry in the mid 70's mud on the bare metal was the standard of the industry
Maybe I will change my mind at some point, if I do I'll change up my procedures. I honestly have not ever had any issues with that. It's hard to say how something was repaired to cause that. Could have been many things. I agree it's better to have a substrate under the filler but I just don't see it being beneficial enough to justify.
Usually caused by wet sanding primer which is porous. The filler then absorbs the moisture promoting corrosion. Leaving primer on filler for days before painting does the same thing.
You can spray epoxy primer before your bondo work if it helps you sleep better at night
Read the filler can
No tricks here. More like a 100 ways not to do body filler. It almost killed me watching this. The tape and vac hose says you're a garage guy. First off, no need to go to bare metal. Good fillers stick to oem finish. Second, you need to put an epoxy down on bare metal, then filler. Third. Start at the body line and go one direction. Don't fill over top the body line. Too easy to lose your line. Then sand with a DA. Put the hand block away till the final sand. Way too much work here for such a small job.
Listen, every tech. Does things a little bit differently? Doesn't mean there's a wrong or right way to do it. If you've watched my channel at all, I put filler over oEm paint, I put it over bare metal. I've used epoxy and put body filler over epoxy, but it's not absolutely necessary. You're wrong in that statement. No hate here. If you do things a little bit differently, that's okay. Do it the way you feel comfortable and the way you've proven, From experience that it works properly. And that's what i'm sharing with you here.
Damn a hundred ways to skin a cat but you know the only way huh? 😂