I find that one of the most important things with filler is to know when to stop sanding and either apply more or change to a finer grit sandpaper. When I first started I would usually sand too much off for the first 1 or 2 applications and work more than I needed to
NICE work, guy 😏. One of the better/best vids on THIS exact topic that you demonstrated. VERY informative. Over 30 years experience here (mostly hobby but, also for a little extra 💸for a few years too, mostly classic car/truck restoration, some collision) and ALWAYS learnin. You made that fender repair look fairly easy with some definite extra pointers that will help my future experience on some of those pesky curved body lined fenders/quarters/doors etc. TY and subscribed. Happy Restoring and Cruizin 😎🤘🔥🤘
i build drift cars so by no means do i expect perfection with my projects BUT this is still wildly helpful. gotta pick up one of those flexible blocks asap!
I'm a shade tree mechanic and I have been fighting with where the roof and the windshield meet on a 2000 Honda Accord (sunroof). The hood decided to fly up at 45mph.... I'm going to try and straighten the hood too. It's bowed straight across the middle where it made contact with the roof.... I'm going to put a 2x4 just across the motor, bring the hood down and see if I can get it as straight as possible...
Hello, after applying Bondo glass, to my mesh patch, I have bare metal around the area. I have a tube of Bondo glazing and spot putty or regular Bondo filler. Which product would you use on the glass Bondo and bare metal? Thanks
Yes I did, but don't get hung up on it. you can primer over 180. I recommend removing 180 because it's a good general practice to only primer over 320 because it lessens the chances of the primer shrinking in scratches and showing up in the repair. Appreciate the support!
It's not necessary, some techs like to use epoxy primer before filler but it is not necessary in this situation. The only time I would use epoxy primer before filler is if I was doing a restoration and stripping down an entire vehicle to bare metal then I might to protect it from flash rust. I appreciate the question and the support!
I see you always do filler over bare metal. Also see on the TDS it says bare metal. But seems everybody tells me to lay it over epoxy. Which is right or are both ok?
Yes this is a big debate. I've always applied filler over bare metal and never had a problem (that I know of) Recently it's become popular to apply filler over epoxy primer. I don't feel there's anything wrong with that but this involves more steps and time. The only time I might apply filler over epoxy is if I was doing a restoration taking the vehicle to bare metal and using epoxy to protect it . Then I would apply it over epoxy. Ethier way is fine for small repairs it's over kill to apply epoxy first. Hope this helps appreciate the comment and support!
Yes, it is a DTM. For small repairs and to primer small areas of metal . If I was spraying a large panel or doing a full restoration that was stripped to bare metal, I would have more confidence in a good epoxy primer . Appreciate the comment and support!
I was taught etch then high build. But now everyone’s doing epoxy I gave it a try on a resto I was doing it was a 1/1 ratio followed the tds on it and it never hardened 😅 after that experience Iv just stuck with what I know.ever had that happen not real sure how a guy could mess that much up but I must have
He thinks putting body filler over bare metal will cause rust. He’s a guy who primes and then does filler. I also use the prime then filler technique but I’ve never seen rust under filler in my life.
Not worth the labor in time, but at the same time , rust isn't gonna happen if you do it correctly. Been doing this over 27 yrs. No issues at all. Ask me how?
Love to watch you take a big dent a bring it right into shape. Keep up the great teaching!
Thank's Robert! appreciate the support!
I find that one of the most important things with filler is to know when to stop sanding and either apply more or change to a finer grit sandpaper. When I first started I would usually sand too much off for the first 1 or 2 applications and work more than I needed to
In my experience that's the biggest mistake beginners make for sure and it turns into a vicious circle .
Sometimes You have to be a bit careless to get things done perfectly 😂
This is the story of my life! 😂
NICE work, guy 😏. One of the better/best vids on THIS exact topic that you demonstrated. VERY informative. Over 30 years experience here (mostly hobby but, also for a little extra 💸for a few years too, mostly classic car/truck restoration, some collision) and ALWAYS learnin. You made that fender repair look fairly easy with some definite extra pointers that will help my future experience on some of those pesky curved body lined fenders/quarters/doors etc. TY and subscribed. Happy Restoring and Cruizin 😎🤘🔥🤘
I appreciate comment brother! Thanks for the sub and welcome to the channel!
i build drift cars so by no means do i expect perfection with my projects BUT this is still wildly helpful. gotta pick up one of those flexible blocks asap!
They come in handy! Appreciate the comment and support!
good work brother we need more videos like this awesome !!
Thank you! Keep watching I'll keep making them! Appreciate the support!
Always learning from your great content!
Thanks brother!
I'm a shade tree mechanic and I have been fighting with where the roof and the windshield meet on a 2000 Honda Accord (sunroof). The hood decided to fly up at 45mph.... I'm going to try and straighten the hood too. It's bowed straight across the middle where it made contact with the roof.... I'm going to put a 2x4 just across the motor, bring the hood down and see if I can get it as straight as possible...
Amazing tutorial
Great job
Whats the best filler to use now a days, it's been since 1988 I last did my 65 impala. Getting ready to do it again. Thank u for the tips.
Right now my preference is upol lightweight gold. Appreciate your comment and support!
Have you tried upol stuff for plastic repair?
Great tips....
great job
🙏
Nice work👍
Appreciate it!
Nice work man ❤
Appreciate the comment and support!
Hi can you show us how to get rid of the dents =hammer dolly etc as at the beginning of the recordings ps nice accurate stuff
This was excellent 🎉🎉🎉🎉
Awesome! Appreciate the support!
I wished i could find that video in the description. So many links and playlists and links i couldnt find it
Which video? May I can help ya
the one you mentioned right at :15 seconds that this was a part 2 and there was a part one with glue pulling@@GarageNoise
@@budthatsmyrealname maybe this is it ua-cam.com/video/vNq73vW-wMg/v-deo.htmlsi=vH45BDJQA6CpwP6b
Nice good working
Thanks
nice work👍
Thanks ✌️
Good job, how can get electric DA sander instead of a air sander?
The sell on Amazon should be a link in the description or in my Amazon store . Electric is great saves your compressor.
How much was the fender? Was it not available? Good video, but as I watched this, I think about the driver. They smash and crash, and blame away.
Hello, after applying Bondo glass, to my mesh patch, I have bare metal around the area. I have a tube of Bondo glazing and spot putty or regular Bondo filler. Which product would you use on the glass Bondo and bare metal? Thanks
looks good well doine
👍
After you block sanded the glaze with 180...did you take out the 180 scratches around the repair with 320 before sanded with 600?
Yes I did, but don't get hung up on it. you can primer over 180. I recommend removing 180 because it's a good general practice to only primer over 320 because it lessens the chances of the primer shrinking in scratches and showing up in the repair. Appreciate the support!
Thank you
You're welcome
Why aren't you priming the bare metal before filler?
It's not necessary, some techs like to use epoxy primer before filler but it is not necessary in this situation. The only time I would use epoxy primer before filler is if I was doing a restoration and stripping down an entire vehicle to bare metal then I might to protect it from flash rust. I appreciate the question and the support!
It’s right on the back of all filler cans to apply to bare metal.
Nice work
So im confuse is the body filler the same as bondo cuz bondo hardens up fast ?
Yes, same Bondo is actually a brand name.
What is the purpose of changing from a larger plastic spreader to a smaller metal spreader?
It might be easier to control in small areas.
Pinholes
I see you always do filler over bare metal. Also see on the TDS it says bare metal. But seems everybody tells me to lay it over epoxy. Which is right or are both ok?
Yes this is a big debate. I've always applied filler over bare metal and never had a problem (that I know of) Recently it's become popular to apply filler over epoxy primer. I don't feel there's anything wrong with that but this involves more steps and time. The only time I might apply filler over epoxy is if I was doing a restoration taking the vehicle to bare metal and using epoxy to protect it . Then I would apply it over epoxy. Ethier way is fine for small repairs it's over kill to apply epoxy first. Hope this helps appreciate the comment and support!
@@GarageNoise perfect!! That’s what I’m doing a restoration. Sand the epoxy with 80 then apply filler?
@@1bad69xss4 yes, 80 for sure. Let me know how it goes. You can email me pics and I may share them with the community! garagenoise247@gmail.com
Hey Chris - When you marked out the fender line, where on the fender line did you put the pencil on? were you more to the outside or inside? Thanks
I read on that primer it is dtm but to proper treated metal and etch is preferred?
Yes, it is a DTM. For small repairs and to primer small areas of metal . If I was spraying a large panel or doing a full restoration that was stripped to bare metal, I would have more confidence in a good epoxy primer . Appreciate the comment and support!
I was taught etch then high build. But now everyone’s doing epoxy I gave it a try on a resto I was doing it was a 1/1 ratio followed the tds on it and it never hardened 😅 after that experience Iv just stuck with what I know.ever had that happen not real sure how a guy could mess that much up but I must have
11:24 What is that primer lid with the spout called? I dont see it in the description
amzn.to/3KPJCQ2 I think this is what your looking for . I take the handle off and mix with a drill
oh nice, it even has a built in stirer. its perfect thanks@@GarageNoise
is body filler the same as bondo?
Bondo is actually a brand name like (kleenex)
@@GarageNoise Hey is it true that if i buy a new bumper the check has to inspect my car for stolen parts?
city
Yea
👍
How many applications of filler do you need ?
Typically 1-3
The best way to straighten metal is to use pressure not blunt force. 30+ years experience.
روعه
👍
Rust City on the way!
Maybe in 20 years.
How so??? Explain what would make that rust city LoL 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
He thinks putting body filler over bare metal will cause rust. He’s a guy who primes and then does filler.
I also use the prime then filler technique but I’ve never seen rust under filler in my life.
Not worth the labor in time, but at the same time , rust isn't gonna happen if you do it correctly. Been doing this over 27 yrs. No issues at all. Ask me how?
In 5-8 yrs, that car won't belong to the owner anyway. Shouldn't have got in a wreck in the first place.
Piss poor filler application
Gotcha
O S M ❤
👊