This is a really good source of information for the beginner or someone who has been shooting a while, you may be bringing this to the subject that people haven't though about. another favorite channel of mine is 314299, he also explains things with common sense. Thanks for your work, shooting, loading on these old style pistols. - Dave
Howdy there Pard… darn UA-cam unsubscribed me from your channel… but I found you again. I have been a fan of felt wads for a really long (48 years) time… I used to pick up old felt hats at garage sales and cut thin, but effective patches, soak them in melted bees wax and crisco. The lube has switched up over the years and I buy my felt online now… but they have always worked. I started using them under round balls from my long guns between the powder and ball patch. Thank you for sharing… have a blessed day sir.
Right, I’ve missed your comments, now we know why. I too used the hat plan, but following Elmer’s advice, only beeswax. Had my eye on dad’s trout fishing hat, but knew enough not too, and am still alive to prove it. There just isn’t enough lube in that process to keep modern fouling soft. Elmer would blow into the barrel after each cylinder, but I don’t think that would do it, and safety concerns are there with that method. Anyway great to hear from you again; stay safe. O.R.
I built a target frame with layered wood/paper for the sole purpose of catching my round balls for re-casting. When I was digging out the balls, I was absolutely globsmacked to find the felt wads still firmly attached to the back of some of the round balls, even after penetrating two inches of wood/paper. How that physically happens is beyond me, but it does. This has to have some effect on accuracy.
Like Jake said in Silverado , “That’s what I said “. I’ve found them in the sand trap in back of the targets. Of course the sand would tear the wad off the back. I believe (at this point) that it’s the reason (or at least part) why I can’t quite seem to get the accuracy. So happy to hear this from another shooter, most using wads probably, like in Cowboy Action Shooting, don’t pay much attention to this aspect, and at close range, reliability is the main concern. Wild Bill might have had a different opinion. Thanks so much for this comment and information. O.R.
Well! They are decent enough groups OR, but nothing like as good as the lube over ball one hole groups you got, they are also striking high (velocity?),I also notice that although the wads are lube impregnated there is no sign of lube at the muzzle, it looks like the lube over ball is the way to go.
I have noticed a small amount on the barrel end that doesn't show up easily. That shooting high has me puzzled also, glad you picked up on that, no one else has mentioned it. Should have figured you wouldn't miss that one. I think the dry ones might also be high, but they were pretty wild, so no real confirmation there. I'm still "sticking" with the lube, I mostly don't think something between the ball and powder is doing accuracy any favors. There doesn't seem to be terrible flyers, but so far, just not as tight, and often one or two that are noticeably out of the group. I realize this is just academic to lots of shooters that require reliability more than accuracy. Maybe it's just that when I miss, I want to know for sure that it was me. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 I think it is important that we see a smear of lube at the muzzle, at least we know then that there is sufficient to ease the projectile the whole way, but I suppose we could add too much and end up causing resistance? With a dry passage through the bore the soft lead gets pretty chewed up, leading to some deformity, so I am sure that leads to the odd flyer, but I think it is very unlikely that you would get flyers due to shooter misaiming, then when we look at the over ball lubed shots they are almost all in the same hole, which at that range is outstanding performance! I have often thought it odd than no recommendation was made to lube these back in the day, but they must have realised the benefit as they did dip lube the paper cartridges. Stay warm, Spring will soon be here! Chris B.
@@453421abcdefg12345 Using powder you describe in your other reply might be a whole new experience. Not just for percussion revolvers but for black powder cartridge handguns and rifles, both cartridge and muzzleloading. Even using a lubed patch on a muzzleloading rifle seems I need to run a cleaning patch every shot to maintain accuracy and understand others do the same. Thanks again for your this information. O.R.
Maybe, but the purpose of the lube on the wad isn't just to get the ball out the barrel, it needs to also keep the fouling from "caking" up on the barrel. Not sure silicone would do that O.R.
This is a really good source of information for the beginner or someone who has been shooting a while, you may be bringing this to the subject that people haven't though about. another favorite channel of mine is 314299, he also explains things with common sense. Thanks for your work, shooting, loading on these old style pistols. - Dave
Very instructive I would not have thought the 3 different loading methods would have made so much difference.
Glad it helped. O.R.
Wow big difference
Howdy there Pard… darn UA-cam unsubscribed me from your channel… but I found you again.
I have been a fan of felt wads for a really long (48 years) time… I used to pick up old felt hats at garage sales and cut thin, but effective patches, soak them in melted bees wax and crisco. The lube has switched up over the years and I buy my felt online now… but they have always worked. I started using them under round balls from my long guns between the powder and ball patch.
Thank you for sharing… have a blessed day sir.
Right, I’ve missed your comments, now we know why. I too used the hat plan, but following Elmer’s advice, only beeswax. Had my eye on dad’s trout fishing hat, but knew enough not too, and am still alive to prove it. There just isn’t enough lube in that process to keep modern fouling soft. Elmer would blow into the barrel after each cylinder, but I don’t think that would do it, and safety concerns are there with that method. Anyway great to hear from you again; stay safe. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 I have to catch up sir
I built a target frame with layered wood/paper for the sole purpose of catching my round balls for re-casting. When I was digging out the balls, I was absolutely globsmacked to find the felt wads still firmly attached to the back of some of the round balls, even after penetrating two inches of wood/paper. How that physically happens is beyond me, but it does. This has to have some effect on accuracy.
Like Jake said in Silverado , “That’s what I said “. I’ve found them in the sand trap in back of the targets. Of course the sand would tear the wad off the back. I believe (at this point) that it’s the reason (or at least part) why I can’t quite seem to get the accuracy. So happy to hear this from another shooter, most using wads probably, like in Cowboy Action Shooting, don’t pay much attention to this aspect, and at close range, reliability is the main concern. Wild Bill might have had a different opinion. Thanks so much for this comment and information. O.R.
Well! They are decent enough groups OR, but nothing like as good as the lube over ball one hole groups you got, they are also striking high (velocity?),I also notice that although the wads are lube impregnated there is no sign of lube at the muzzle, it looks like the lube over ball is the way to go.
I have noticed a small amount on the barrel end that doesn't show up easily. That shooting high has me puzzled also, glad you picked up on that, no one else has mentioned it. Should have figured you wouldn't miss that one. I think the dry ones might also be high, but they were pretty wild, so no real confirmation there. I'm still "sticking" with the lube, I mostly don't think something between the ball and powder is doing accuracy any favors. There doesn't seem to be terrible flyers, but so far, just not as tight, and often one or two that are noticeably out of the group. I realize this is just academic to lots of shooters that require reliability more than accuracy. Maybe it's just that when I miss, I want to know for sure that it was me. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 I think it is important that we see a smear of lube at the muzzle, at least we know then that there is sufficient to ease the projectile the whole way, but I suppose we could add too much and end up causing resistance? With a dry passage through the bore the soft lead gets pretty chewed up, leading to some deformity, so I am sure that leads to the odd flyer, but I think it is very unlikely that you would get flyers due to shooter misaiming, then when we look at the over ball lubed shots they are almost all in the same hole, which at that range is outstanding performance! I have often thought it odd than no recommendation was made to lube these back in the day, but they must have realised the benefit as they did dip lube the paper cartridges. Stay warm, Spring will soon be here! Chris B.
@@453421abcdefg12345 Using powder you describe in your other reply might be a whole new experience. Not just for percussion revolvers but for black powder cartridge handguns and rifles, both cartridge and muzzleloading. Even using a lubed patch on a muzzleloading rifle seems I need to run a cleaning patch every shot to maintain accuracy and understand others do the same. Thanks again for your this information. O.R.
What about silicone wads so ya don't need lube.
Maybe, but the purpose of the lube on the wad isn't just to get the ball out the barrel, it needs to also keep the fouling from "caking" up on the barrel. Not sure silicone would do that O.R.
@@oldranger3044
Oh