Thanks. I have a couple of screwdrivers like this in my shop. I thought it was just old paint. Many of my tools were not purchased new so I didn't watch them change. I've never noticed a smell but I've never sniffed them. Also - THANK YOU FOR NO MUSIC. You spoke slowly (as in normal, not fast), you articulate well, and you didn't drown out your voice with some annoying looping music to 'jazz it up'. I appreciate that.
If you have the mange most can smell it. I think some are blind to it though. It's the same chemical as stomach acid. Which is why everyone says it smells like vomit. Same thing. It kind of reminds me of stinky feet a little too. It's butyric acid.
Thanks for the wonderful video, and a huge thanks for not ruining it with crappy background music. I don't know why some people feel compelled to add annoying background music throughout their videos.
I noticed you did the treatments in alphabetical order: Acetone, ammonia, bleach and vinegar. Thanks for a straightforward demo, with no musical soundtrack.
FIRE!! Flame from a torch, stove, or even a butane lighter. I've done it before. It melts that stuff right back into the handle where it came from. It works on other plastics too. Stadium maintenance crews even do it on the plastic seats using a weed burner torch.
I’ll have to admit that was my cure in the past. I hated opening the drawer to that smell, plus the Phillips blade always wore out quickly. I made my living with my tools and when I could finally afford Snap-On screw drivers, I never had a screw driver problem again. With the exception of lost or stolen tools, I still have and use these screw drivers today. Some of which were bought in the 80’s🙂 But I still like watching folks trying to figure ways to save and use old tools. I have family that keep telling me that I need to get rid of my tools, but how can you get rid of your tools! I just can’t understand it!
I have a bunch of tools that I inherited from my dad. Most of them need rust removal, and a few screwdrivers have crumbled or missing handles. I've been thinking of browning them after rust removal to make them look nicer and then making wooden handles. I have a bunch of small hardwood scraps that were given to me which would make excellent handles.
Odd, I'm 60 and have used Snap-On stuff here and there thru the years. Never had the handles deteriorate like Craftsman, but the quality of the blades has always been poor, not much better than Craftsman stuff was. Used everything from the 70's thru the early 2000's, they were all relatively soft. I purchased a set of Japanese made Vessel JIS drivers (Japanese Phillips) 20 years ago when I started my career in industrial maintenance (CNC machines/ancillary equipment), used every day and they still show very little wear. Amazing! The Snap-On & Craftsman drivers would show damage after only a couple of uses. I take care of my tools and am careful not to cam-out drivers, didn't help, they're just too soft.
I saw good results with WD40. Spayed it on, left it for a couple on minutes and wiped it off. The mange was gone. No odor. No damage to the plastic. I did not expect it to be so effective.
WD40? Interesting. For years I've been using a mix of 1 part formula 409, 1 part household ammonia and 2 parts water, a formula I got from an antique radio collector for the same purpose. I also discovered that oxyclean crystals dissolved in warm water with a dab of dish detergent added works equally well. The oxyclean mixture is also excellent for removing nicotine tar and cigarette smoke residue
I tried some of that yellow alkaline based spray cleaner, took the white right off. Works for that sticky rubber problem too. Haven't found a cure for the odor, but it's not so bad. If it's bacterial based, perhaps UV light?
Great Test! I believe that the dreaded mange is a result of improperly mixed CAB, Western Forge was notorious for bad mixes and a few other companies had their bad batches. When properly mixed the Acetate handles should last a lifetime and cure properly. Great stuff!
On their website PB Swiss admits that they add vanilla scent to their CAB screwdrivers handles to mask the odor. They also recommend not storing them in air tight containers.
Yeah the C in CAB is basically wood pulp. Supposedly if you use more of the A it helps with stability. More A makes for thicker cell walls. Then the mange can't attack so effectively. I imagine the A costs a lot more than the C does. Which is why many cheap out on adding the A. There's a similar problem with Bakelite. Cheap Bakelite has a lot of filler in it.
Don't know about that. I have Craftsman screwdrivers in a tool box in my basement that still look like new and others in my tool box in the garage that have turned white. Not that different in age if any. Maybe a couple of years at most..
The results were informative. I'm going to give the ammonia test a shot. It looks as though may save some scraping. Many thanks for taking the time to do this and sharing with us. 😉👍
The knobs of old 1950s tube hifi and radios often develop a similar white, moldy crust; a radio collector shared a simple formula that works: 1 part formula 409, 1 part household ammonia and 2 parts water. More recently, I discovered that a solution of Oxyclean crystals in warm water with a dab of dish soap works equally well.
I had the same problem with my Craftsman screwdrivers. I cleaned them up with a power wire brush and then just dipped them in polyurethane and hung them dry overnight. They look just fine now that was years ago. I didn't bother to sniff them lately. I think my smell overpowers any smell coming off a screwdriver.
Some of my 50 year old Craftsman screwdrivers are starting to do the same thing. One Snap On cotter pin extractor I have, the handle cracked and fell off.
Glad I ran across this. Very informative. I have a few old radios where the knobs keep getting this stuff on them. I had cleaned it off thinking someone who had filthy hands make the coating. I never thought that it was the plastic decomposing.
An antique radio collector gave me this formula: 1 part formula 409, 1 part household ammonia and 2 parts water. I also discovered that oxyclean crystals dissolved in warm water with a dab of dish soap works really well.
@@goodun2974this result makes me wonder if the ammonia was the only thing in the 409/water mix that worked. But maybe the soap in the 409 helped dissolve the resulting paste.
What handyman doesn’t have this situation? A tradesman most likely wouldn’t because he unlike many of us uses the tools daily. What you don’t say is where this problem comes from? I believe the answer is twofold. First the material the handles were/are made from. Second is oil from the users skin plus actual skin debris left behind after use. Oil (sebum) from human body is quite a problem for me not only on most any other objects but tools too. To avoid the formation of this problem (mange) simply clean all your tools after use then put away. The other solution is wear nitrile or latex gloves. Personally I don’t like wearing gloves because hands sweat and gloves get gross from the moisture collection inside. By the way, I liked your video, and my money was on ammonia since it is a caustic cleaner and as you demonstrated it will kill the bacteria that has accumulated on the tools handle. I use old tooth brushes to do tasks similar to this then I can rinse and use again or if too nasty toss them. Now I think I’ll go find a couple of nasty screw drivers to clean. Thanks, I really didn’t know about this until I saw your video.
When exposed to excessive heat and moisture, the CAB can degrade into butyric acid, causing “the mange” and the rotten smell. PB Swiss adds vanilla to their CAB handles to mask the odor.
Yeah if you keep tools enclosed the smell can get potent. You have two options. Either you keep cleaning the mangy tools or you just toss them out. I've looked for a definitive fix and I've never found it. That ammonia did a good job. But ammonia has it's own bouquet let's say. All of this may be why I like wooden handled screwdrivers so much. The smell is from a chemical that makes puke stink. Butyric acid which is stomach bile.
@@Mitch-p9n the topic of mange is somewhat complicated. But hand grease may play a role in the breakdown of the plastic material. Some research suggests the mange is a bacteria? Acetate handles are made out of wood pulp. I know it doesn't look like wood but that's chemistry for ya.
Wow! I'm 62 and have been fascinated by plastics of all kinds since childhood. I didn't know until your video that there was a type of plastic called cellulose acetate butyrate. I checked, and one of my Craftsman screwdrivers does indeed have "mange." Thank you so much for this informative video. Testing for the win!
Great video, MagDad! The mystery ring around the shaft when you used the bleach was likely corrosion that occurred at the waterline, where there was the presence of both bleach (a salt derivative) and oxygen.
You will get the same corrosion line if you use Evapo Rust on a ferrous metal object, if a portion of the object is out of the solution & exposed to the air.
Very good presentation and extremely useful. I tried the ammonia. IT WORKED!!! I let a bunch of screwdrivers soak for a day or two in clear ammonia - didn't even have to wipe most of them. They came out clear almost looking like NEW! If you let them soak for a day or two you don't have to wipe. But get your ammonia at Walmart - it's a LOT cheaper than at other places! If you have a bunch you may have to change out the ammonia with new. The white crud kind of floats in there solution. Wow! All the remedies and even the things I've tried and this works without melting the handles. Thank you!!!
Hey !Bonjour Professeur Magdad, vraiment intéressant le cours pour ôté la moisissure sur les manches des tournevis. C'est vrai qu'il faut essayer plusieurs choses pour voir un résultat correct. Il est vrai qu'il ne reste qu'un seul qui soit relativement stable. Merci pour le partage. ❤
AWESOME research vid! I've always used Simple Green in the sink w/ hot water and a old toothbrush and a brass wire brush if needed , dry tool , then a wipe down with WD-40 and a cloth rag.
Well, that's conclusive - ammonia bath to loosen and dissolve the "mange" and light physical abrasion to remove it. That handle looked restored to me. And perhaps they meant that you should bathe the handle in baking soda and water overnight to remove the odor. I have a number of old screwdrivers that exhibit this decomposition, which I just tolerated; now I know how to bring them back. Thanks! Very nicely organized and narrated straightforward video.
CAB can break down in the presence of heat, moisture, or bacteria. It breaks down into cellulose, acetic acid (vinegar), and butyric acid. This process can be accelerated in a closed box or drawer where the free acid can not escape. One way to slow the process in a closed box or drawer is to put in a container of baking soda and change as needed. This will capture any free acids and smell.
@@beanMosheen, The greenpeace environmentalists who used to harass whaling ships would throw "bombs" made of rancid butter at them. It's supposed to be a truly vile, horrible smell.
OK guys, I may have stumbled on the best fix of all. I have seen all the YT videos on this fix or that fix, but nothing seems to compare with what I found. I wish I could attach a photo but can't. I have Craftsman screwdrivers that are upwards of 50 years old. As you know, the older ones get what was described as the "mange". We learn that the mange is caused by a bacteria that feeds off the decaying cellulose in the plastic screwdriver handles. I tried CLR overnight and it softened the mange so I could wire brush and wipe it clean but required some effort. While doing this, I saw a bottle of Wet & Forget on my shelf and decided to give it a try. It is designed to kill algae, mold, etc on housing, so I dunked a couple screwdrivers in full strength. Within 2 hours, all mange was complete gone except for a couple nooks and crannies. I'm not sure if the foul odor is gone, because there are other screwdrivers sitting there yet to be done. Wet & Forget is used once a year so will the screwdrivers last a year????
I wonder if a combination might work better. Use the ammonia first to remove the mange, then maybe a quick acetone dip to rip the outer layer of plastic off to get rid of the odor.
Great video! Now I know why my tools sometimes stink. I couldn’t figure out what the smell originated from. I guess I’ll have to bag up my stinky tools and set them aside until your video on how to make them stop stinking! Anyway, I just subscribed and will check out your other videos. Thanks for the video!
Craftsman tools are still sold by Lowes - they bought the Craftsman name. I don't know if they retained the Craftsman warranty, although I heard anecdotally that they did. Worth investigating further. And regardless, Craftsman tools are pretty good for the price. I once - years ago - brought in a broken Craftsman router bit (!) and they replaced it. A friend found a Craftsman screwdriver in the woods, rusted with a broken handle, and they (Sears) replaced it. I think the cost of replacement pales in comparison with the good will and encouragement to "no-risk" buy, for a net gain in business.
@@MrGsteele Lowes/New Craftsman wouldn't replace an original Craftsman long handled shovel that still had the original sticker stating that it had an unconditional lifetime guarantee. They will warranty their New Craftsman, but you may need to have your receipt. You can send in a request, on-line, to see if they will honor the original Craftsman warranty, but good luck there. You have to get a return authorization from them first. Good luck.
I just went through this with a ton of hand tools that I got from my father. I tried mechanical removal, and that worked but was too labor intensive. I initially thought that he had dipped his tools in wax to increase grip with oily hands when he was working on the cars. So thanks for the explanation. I never noticed any bad smells, though. Anyway, because I thought that it was some kind of wax, I tried hot water and it worked fast! I have solar hot water and it comes out of the tap >140F, maybe up to 160F at times. This water is so hot that if I run it for too long, it melts the rubber washers in the handle valve and causes them to leak, so I just do it for short periods. Bottom line: use hotter water and the stuff immediately turns clear and melts off, then finish up with one of those shop towels (like for instance Tub o' Towels) that are impregnated with mild cleaners and lanolin to get the last bits out of the grooves before it cools off and you're done with numerous tools in a short time. The lanolin does wonders for the metal parts, giving them a light coating which is awesome for rust resistance. Cheers!
The ammonia results were very interesting! There is an extremely similar issue with plastic on pre war and post war model trains. Its a weird solution but I tried it and oddly enough it worked. A hair drier of all things. It literally got shiny and clear then just wipe off any residue. I havent noticed an odor but Ive only ever seen it on smaller parts.
As the ammonia seemed to have done some good, I'd suggest a (weak at first) lye solution. Careful with that! Ammonia in water forms a weak base, hence my hypothesis that a lye solution may help. After clearing the plastic I'd suggest sealing the handle with a poly coat both to seal in the odor and give some ongoing protection to the handle.
Well this solves the mystery of why there's always a few screwdrivers in any given bin at the flea market that look like they've been used to stir paint with the handle. I've never had any of my screwdrivers do this, and I have at least a couple of those Craftsmans around that go back to the late 80s or early 90s.
Would say the best combo will be to do the ammonia dip, followed by a scrub to get rid of the powder, and then rinse it and let it dry. Then the bleach soak to handle the remaining odour, but very important to have the rinse and dry between the ammonia and chlorine, or you will have a high risk of any trapped ammonia reacting with the bleach to liberate chlorine gas. Alos would suggest cloudy ammonia instead of clear, higher concentration will help with a faster reaction, and it should be at around 40C as well, so put the small cup in a bowl of freshly boiled water for 3 minutes before starting. The boiled water can serve as a pre soak cleaner, and post ammonia soak rinse as well.
I use a hair dryer to get the mange off old fishing lures. Blast them and the mange just goes away, lures are like new. Not sure it would work on the handles. I will have to give it a try on the next mange handle I come across. The mange looks identical to the ones on the lures I treat with 1500 watts.
I have used a green scrub pad, like that on a dish cleaning sponge, essentially like a scotch brite pad but not abrasive. They sell packs in the supermarket where I am and I use washing up liquid and water and the scrubby pad to clean everything. Works excellent on all sorts including screwdriver handles. Once clean I flame polish or use a buffing wheel to bring back the shine, never had mine smell very much of anything though.
Thanks for watching Donald! I've had really luck with steel wool, Flitz and PlastX . Check out my latest plastic handle project: ua-cam.com/video/Xr4fVm9NxQA/v-deo.html
Excellent video! Given that the ammonia was clearly the best when it came to mange removal, perhaps another video could be trying to deodorize the handles after an ammonia bath and wipe down. Some suggestions would be another couple of minutes in ammonia, a couple minutes in acetone, baking soda or washing soda dissolved in water, isopropyl alcohol, denatured alcohol or methanol, kerosene, gasoline, diesel, vinegar, hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid), diluted bleach, oxy clean and water, shampoo and water, and Dawn dish soap and water. Plus plain water as a control. And obviously be careful with all the flammables. This would give you the three main solvent groups (water, alcohols, and hydrocarbons), acids and bases, as well as some more standard cleaning products. Surely one of them has got to work, right? And I saw someone else suggest flame as an option, too.
A lot of things we have that are plastic experience some surface degredation. A different problem than the mange is the surface of some plastic with get sticky. One recommendation I tried is to scrub the surface with a paste (with water) and baking soda. It does work to some limited degree. Not sure if you repeat it if it improves with the number of scrubs. It would be interesting what the industry for PAB has as a reaction. It seems they have been mum. Maybe they feel a consumer shouldn't expect a lifelong un-mangey relationship with their screwdriver. Another problem with some plastic handled tools is that they will literally melt, especially when in contact with some other plastics. I like your willingness to test and experiment in the shop. It helps your viewers.
It was fun playing mad scientist! On their website PB Swiss admits that they add vanilla scent to their CAB screwdrivers handles to mask the odor. They also recommend not storing them in air tight containers.
The plastics that experience that are Styrenic block copolymers, TPS (TPE-s) Thermoplastic polyolefinelastomers, TPO (TPE-o) Thermoplastic vulcanizates, TPV (TPE-v or TPV) Thermoplastic polyurethanes, TPU (TPU) Thermoplastic copolyester, TPC (TPE-E) Thermoplastic polyamides, TPA (TPE-A) Typically used for soft grip type layers on harder plastic parts. In my opinion it is used so you throw the item away and buy a new one. You can remove the TPA (etc) by scrubbing with isopropanol
I saw a video where a guy suggested using gasoline as a solvent to fix that nasty sticky plastic enclosure problem. Someone chimed in that white gas would be even better since it's essentially more refined gasoline. Haven't tried it yet myself, but that sticky plastic is just the worst!
What's been working for me is dipping the handles into two cycle mix gas to clean all the oil and grime off and wipe it down with an oily rag. The oily rag will do the job on it's own without the gas every year or so as a touch-up and prevents rust.
Thanks for the video, very interesting and informative. The ammonia worked very well. The baking soda and plastic bag should work - as long as you leave the screwdriver in the bag. LOL It is amazing how some acetate handles hold up over time, and some develop the dreaded mange and odour. I do wonder what the differences could be. Perhaps different manufacturers with slightly different formulations for the acetate resin. Dave.
That's what I was thinking. Just leave the screwdriver in the bag. From what I've read the handles that can get mange didn't have a stabilizer added to the plastic or something. Something just went wrong in the manufacturing process. Because it is only some handles that can get mangy. I've seen some handles completely decompose. Although precisely what happened there I don't know. They weren't tools I bought new or anything. So anything could have happened to those tools in their lifetimes. There's a lot of mystery surrounding the mange. The information available is incomplete.
1980's Xcelite screwdriver and nut driver handles will develop this white crust as well. A mix of 1 part formula 409,1 part household ammonia, and 2 parts water will clean it off: or simply use oxyclean crystals dissolved in warm water with a dab of dish soap, which also works like magic on cigarette smoke and nicotine tar. The 409 and ammonia mixture is something I learned from an antique radio collector.
It's not a mold but a decay of the CAB. CAB is a cellulose molecule bound to butyrate. Celulose can also be bound to nitrates and other molecules with a free electron shell. All cellulose plastics will have a tendency to breakdown. When this happens, the cellulose turns white and is quite sticky. The process will happen to any CAB plastic but especially if it's stored in an enclosed space with reduced airflow such as a toolbox or drawer. Extreme temperature changes can also weaken the bond and accelerate the process. Ammonia is good for cleaning off the residue because it has a weak bond on the nitrogen atom and can bond to the cellulose making it easier to wipe away. Nothing will remove the smell though since that is inherent to the CAB itself. You can cover it up with paint but as the CAB breaks down it will decay the paint, and the smell will come back. Short of melting the CAB down and reforming it, you may be stuck. One thing you can try is to paint the handle with a nitrocellulose paint. It's possible the cellulose paint could form a thin bonded layer on the handle, but I've not tried it. I should warn you that CAB is flammable and out gasses a lot. When trying to remove the white sticky stuff, wear a mask. If you decide to paint the handle with a nitrocellulose paint, use a respirator with VOC rated cartridges. And DON'T paint near an open flame heat source or you may have a very bad day.
Great test. I have a drawer full of old Craftsman screwdrivers and most of them need the treatment. I have cleaned 2 of them mechanically to good effect. Thanks
Cleaning is a temporary fix. Any handle that can get mange will get it if conditions are ripe. Some research I've done suggests that it's partly a manufacturing defect when the handles were cast. Because it doesn't happen to every handle. Some are susceptible and some are not. The plastic just isn't right in mangy tools.
One thing I know is that "The Mange" feeds off itself so don't leave screwdrivers closed up in a toolbox or drawer....I guess my only other idea might be try some form of UV light to see if it stops the bacterial degradation.........Fun Tests!
UV causes acetate to breakdown too. It's a different mechanism than the mange though. But I think that's long term exposure? I think exposure to UV makes acetate craze. Like all the little cracks you see in plastic. All I know is I've read UV breaks acetate down.
I service old radios and guitar amps, I have one that has this on the knobs. Now I know what it is. The problem is the brass inserts, don't know what the ammonia would do to them, and don't want to find out the hard way. I am, very glad to know what they are made of and what this is. Thanks
Ammonia won't hurt the brass. It will brighten it up, actually. But rinse it out afterward with hot water to prevent the residue from causing corrosion on the steel setscrews.
Mange is something I've researched. The ammonia was impressive. If there is a cure I've never found it myself. The other question is how come some handles are affected and others are not? Although there is some suggestion that infections can spread. I don't know. The fix a lot of people adopt is just tossing out the infected tools. With chemistry you'd think someone out there knows something.
@@357magdad what I've read seems to suggest the mange is bacteria. The C in CAB stands for cellulose. Which is pretty digestible. So I really don't see how flavoring food is going to help much. I imagine there's more effective stabilizers they could be using that actually stop the problem. But they're probably toxins.
More impressive you’ve got vintage craftsman screwdrivers now. Just try them in the dishwasher. You’ll have a laugh, but don’t leave them in overnight or they’ll rust.
I have some plastic handle screwdrivers, that have over the years, become battered, scratched and bruised but i dont think they have rotted, but to make them like new again, every few years, ill clean them, give them a light sanding, then rotate the handle over a burner hob for about 20 seconds or so, where it will melt the thinest outer layer, then dip it in water to solidify it again, making the surfaces perfectly smooth and glossy again, looking like new.
Thanks for another real world Magdad test. I wondered if you could save the plastic from further mange by spraying with clear sealer, and you answered that question. Looks like you can slow down the mange, but not neutralize it.
All research I've done seems to suggest that the handles that go rancid are just defective. Because it isn't all acetate that does it. Although there is some evidence that mange can be transmitted? I've seen handles next to mangy handles starting to get funny themselves. But who knows?
@@1pcfred Good point. Some reaction no doubt. But it would seem that since it still degrades after a coating that it is not exposure to air that causes it.
@@ihrescue we don't actually know if those coatings are completely air tight. A lot of finishes do breathe. Some bacteria is anionic too. There is some debate as to precisely what the mange actually is. I've read a bit more about it recently. Some research has been done. It's pretty dense stuff though. I am no biologist or chemist.
Had the same mange with old radio and tv knobs. Ammonia has been my go-to since the 60s. There's usually a wax left behind that needs removal. WD-40 or kerosene usually removes it. A coat of clear laquer or enamel seems to prevent or slow regrowth.
I was just talking to my son while watching this. The best cure for the mange is to cut off the plastic handle and make a beautiful wood handle to go on. ;) Thanks for the informative and interesting video.
I've had this issue with my tools and I used WD40 as the solvent to get rid of the white. That has worked very well. In fact it did help the smell. As far as the smell is concerned. That is butyric acid because these handles were made of butyral. This is a very common plastic because it looks good and is strong. You didn't smell it initially because 1) you didn't stick it up to your nose and smell it; 2) it had a lot of other smells like mold release and stabilizers on it when it was bought. In fact there is a brand that calls its product butyrate (pronounced Beauty Rate). Butyric acid is the smell of vomit. Protesters of many things have dumped gallons of this chemical into entry ways or internal spaces to make people puke upon entering those spaces.
Amen. This video should have been Max 5 minutes. Who wants to sit and look at someone spinning the screwdriver handle for 30 seconds for a minute a pop?
I see opportunity here, your Ammonia and a circular brush that adjusts for various diameters of handles, maybe a wire brush configured in a circular pattern. I liked your video!
Hi just retired my old tool chest for a new one and found almost all of my vintage craftsman screw drivers had a chalk like film on them tryed wiping them with degreaser and cloth rag not good results and then i tryed 000 steel whool and wd 40 and wipe down turned out nice looking that was two months ago. Good luck.
@@KC9UDX mangy old screwdrivers aren't worth shipping costs. It is a manufacturing defect. Not all acetate gets mangy. The acetate that does get the mange lacks stabilizers. So there's no way to permanently fix it. The plastic just wasn't made right. But that might have been a knock on effect of our throwaway culture? They're actually working on making acetate more biodegradable. Because of course they would.
If after treating with ammonia, rinsing, letting dry thoroughly, if you lightly abraded the surface with 300-400 grit sandpaper, the foam blocks might be easiest, you could then apply 3-4 coats of cheap cyanoacrylate “superglue“ a light sand in between coats, if you thoroughly covered the cellulose and buff the final finish to a rough polish, you should have a finish that will resist smelling deteriorating any further. Essentially cover the organic plastic with a synthetic plastic of similar consistency and seal the old stuff.
Ammonia solution works pretty well removing the material that is in the final stage of decomposition, so it likely should be used as the first stage treatment. I had a lot of success with using brake cleaner spray to renew the surface after it was treated in other ways - it needs to be sprayed over the handle sparingly, allowing it to evaporate. Sodium hypochlorite (bleach) must be avoided since it promotes corrosion, including the cavities inside the handle (since the blade isn't sealed perfectly all around). Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) is a "grandma's method" of odor removal from the air inside the enclosed volumes (e.g. fridge). It barely works even in that case. But it can't possibly do anything to the butyrate ion that is produced when CAB decomposes. It might help to remove a substantial amount of surface material partially affected by decomposition using organic solvent (acetone, brake cleaner) after the bulk of fully decomposed material was removed with ammonia.
@@357magdad I have some butyric acid, might test some ways to neutralize it. Using some strong base (sodium hydroxide) seems promising, but I'm not sure. Ideally, decarboxylation would get rid of it, but it's too long to achieve that by simple heating, for example.
Sodium hypochlorite, the active ingredient in bleach, decomposes quickly in hot water. This makes the bleach less effective. You should always use cold water with bleach.
I love my xecelite CAB drivers even smelly. CAb handle is durable and provide nice grip. I know classic PBswiss CAB handle was flavored with vanilla to prevent bad smell. But, it was just sweet stinky handle. CAB handle need frresh air to breath.
If Mrs. Magdad happens to have an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner, try the ammonia in it with the screwdriver. You just might see some action. Ammonia is what I use for my wife's wedding band and other jewelry, mixed about 1 part ammonia to 2 parts water. )full strength would be fine, too). It works a whole lot better than the jewelry cleaner that is sold for that purpose. It makes the gold, and diamonds really shine, and sparkle and it doesn't damage the steel basin or the jewelry, either. It's cool to watch, too. The ammonia melts skin, and for the first minute or so in the ultrasonic cleaner, a cloud of melting skin "explodes", moving away from the jewelry. (It's dead skin cells that make the jewelry look dirty and dingy. (I don't think that she realizes that I "Borrow" the cleaner occasionally to use in the garage.)) I have no idea what that "Mange" stuff is. I've got Craftsman screwdrivers that my Dad had before I was born (in 1960), and just about all ages between then and now, and I've never seen anything like that on any of them. That is a problem that I wasn't even aware of. What causes it? Thanks for the video. I hope I never have this problem and hope that you can get rid of it.
@@357magdad I've turned a few things over in my head, trying to picture what the surface would look like on the molecular level, and haven't come up with much. It seems like PBlaster or WD-40 could possibly penetrate the surface enough to get the residuals that the ammonia didn't get. I don't know. An alternative "Cleaner" that was overlooked was one of the best, Gasoline. Also, Zippo (or Ronsonol) type lighter fluid. I generally use a small artist paint brush or a toothbrush when using these, depending on what I'm cleaning. Sometimes terry cloth or paper towels, or just soak in a small container (greasy bicycle wheel bearings). Seeing how it's basically wood, some sort of sealer may help contain the smell. Maybe clear nail polish, or clear model paint, thinned down with mineral spirits or paint thinner, using either a fine brush or an air brush. Two or three super-fine coats may seal the smell in, but I don't know how it would affect the grip. Maybe just a coat of some sort of wax would help. Again, I've never seen a screwdriver in that condition, have no idea how it got that way or what it smells like. It even occurred to me to get a large bottle of the cheapest, loudest perfume I could find on the clearance shelf at Macy's (Chanel #5 would do it but the cost is prohibitive. Might as well throe the driver away and buy several new sets) Well, I'll let you go. I feel a brain cramp coming on. Have a great week!
I use a general biocide/fungicide of neem oil, potassium bicarbonate, copper acetate and copper sulfate. A few of my dipped handles on unused pliers get mildew as well. A problem with lots of things like alcohol is that while they may harm living fungi, the spores are often unaffected. Ammonia is stripping the fat (lipids) out much the way bleach or lye does. You can feel the sickness on your fingers as it turns you into soap. Microbes don't handle that very well.
I have two sets of screwdrivers same make one flat blade the set philips the philips which are blue are fine the flat blades which are red handles are decomposing. I also have some black handles for nearly 40 years and they are fine too so dark colours seem best.
I worked for 40 years on elevators, never once had this happen to the craftsman screwdrivers I used everyday. They were exposed to a lot of oil, grease, solvents and wiped clean often. Now some of my craftsman screwdrivers in my tool box at home grew this white chalky you call mange. They were used a lot less. My Klein's have never done this.
I came across a few screwdrivers like this while reorganizing the garage. I cleaned them up with 99% alcohol and a rag. They look perfect now and I don't notice any smell. I didn't even know this had a name, or a smell.
informative video, but I enjoyed it lots more after I went into settings and cranked it up to 2x speed. I'm going to try the ammonia dip, and then consider applying some sort of preventative coating, like polyurethane, or try shrinking a thin walled plastic bottle onto the handle with a heat gun.
My father bought me a set of Craftsman tools when I graduated HS in 1969. I still have and use those tools. The gray plastic box containing the small socket set still smells like "vomit" to this day.
Back in the past when nearly all screwdrivers had black handles, I used to dip my screwdrivers in a liquid rubber made specifically for this purpose that came in various dayglow or neon fluorescent type colors. It made it easier to find a missing screwdriver within the black hole of a vehicle with dark carpeting, or to spot it if it ended up in somebody else's toolbox. If you make your tools sufficiently ugly, nobody else won't want to steal them anyway! Nowadays you can buy screwdrivers and nut drivers in all kinds of bright colors but back in my youth it seems every tool handle was black......
Random thought but perhaps applying a resin based coating in several layers after using the ammonia to remove the mange would help to mask scratches as well as prevent reoccurrence of the bacteria by sealing it. I have no experience so take this with a few grains of salt but just wanted to throw another suggestion to try
The garden stuff for mildew is copper oxychloride and available pretty much pure in big box stores. Organic from ebay would be potassium bicarbonate. Zinc oxide mixed into linseed oil. Cooked down castor oil adds "rubber" to it. Early tool dip. One of many, just antifungal af. Copper sulfate soap is a thing, used it on ropes.
I wonder if you can seal the handles after you've cleaned them with water thin CA, Cyanoacrylate glue, which bonds very well to anything containing cellulose.
I'm 64, have a well tooled garage and never in my life have I ever seen that... In the 60's my dad had a screwdriver, that had a distinctive, almost fruity smell to the grip, but never the white coating...UK
Might try denatured alcohol next or just regular IPA. A rust remover might be worth a try as well, something like Rustoleum Rust Remover in a spray bottle. A waterless hand cleaner like GoJo might be worth a try as well. Since ammonia worked so well I wonder if regular treatments with ammonia based window cleaner like Windex would help prolong the effects
Thanks for taking the time to test these methods and share the results Magdad, it's worth trying anything once to try to cure the dreaded CAB rot ! Good to see that the ammonia worked at least, I wonder if there are any chemists out there who can advise on reducing the stench ! I have a box set of Record Irwin Chisels and when you open the box there is the disgusting whiff, however as yet there is no white residue just the handles are a little tacky !
Yeah I have a set of Proto nut drivers and they stink to the high heavens. But they only get a little hazy. They never get the heavy white powder on them. I cleaned them after I watched this video. Not with ammonia though. I just used a cleaner on them. I just gave them a little whiff and they're still ripe. Not as bad as sometimes though.
I Buff these to clean up and then use 2k clear coat in 3 coats over the entire handle and at least a 1/4" down the driver shaft. I wait to get several that I want to restify and then do them all at once since I use a rattle can 2k clearcoat 38 261 with the internal hardener from scamazon. It works and keeps the handles isolated from the atmosphere and they Stink no more!
I wonder if you can see all the handles after cleaning them with water thin super glue. Woodworkers who turn pens out of wood on a lathe often seal them with thin super glue.
Baking soda, liquid dishwashing detergent, and very fine scotchbrite. Silicone spray & scotchbrite a close second. Wd40/liquid wrench and Scotchbrite #3.
Same thing on old radio and tv knobs. A disgusting waxy white coating. If you clean it with regular soap and water, it just comes right back. You have to physically scrape it off, it is very tough to remove.
The only thing ive had last "long term" (4 years so far) is removing the existing mange, spraying two heavy coats of *dewaxed* shellac as a sealer and odor blocker, then essentially encasing the whole handle with a layer of floor epoxy. I suspect the last part is what makes the lasting difference, which stinks because it's not cheap. Sometimes I wonder if I should just paint all my old handles with an oil based sealer primer--even though I'd hate to do so Love the experiment vids.
My young sons bought me a black plastic Sears utility box filled with new screwdrivers from Sears thirty years ago. My sons are adults now and the plastic handles never had any visible “mange” but always smelled like vomit. They still work fine but I always wash my hands after I use them.
I tried many of these and got really mixed results. I found the perfect solution and it is P & S Brake Buster. This contamination is the same leach of oils from the tires and similar brake dust stuck to the rims. So, I tried P & S Brake Buster and it worked perfectly. Just spray it on full strength and use a paint brush to work it in. I works in seconds to a minute or two, and just spray it off with water. It will make it look brand new and does not affect any paints and lettering. This is a car detailing treatment and if car people use this for their expensive tires and rims, it will not damage or discolor your tool handles. Once you try this, you will not be looking for another solution. But, this does not prevent this from happening again as the plastic will still have oils being leached. You will just have to do this again maybe 5 to 10 years later. Find P & S Brake Buster at your auto detailing shop, or Amazon. Buy a small bottle to see for yourself.
@@357magdad It does get rid of the stink, as it is in the contamination. The only way that I know to prevent this, is to use your tools often. With your constant handling of the tools, your hands will be rubbing of the trace amounts each time. Maybe an air conditioned room may prevent this too. But, there is no way to dissolve all of the embedded oils, and you may not want to do this. The oils are the properties of the selected plastics and removing them, it may start yellowing and cracking (advance aging). This will be the end for your tool handles. I have a set of Xcelite nut drivers, where the metric handles have minimal issues. But, my SAE handles get very crusty. If I clean them every 3 to 5 years, it take no more than a minute per handle with the P & S Brake Buster. In 15 minutes I am finished with both sets in a touchup. Hope this helps...
Try putting a light coating of motor oil on your tool handles. I never saw this with my dad's tools; they always seemed to be coated with a fine coat of motor oil; I wonder if this prevented the mange.
Thanks. I have a couple of screwdrivers like this in my shop. I thought it was just old paint. Many of my tools were not purchased new so I didn't watch them change. I've never noticed a smell but I've never sniffed them. Also - THANK YOU FOR NO MUSIC. You spoke slowly (as in normal, not fast), you articulate well, and you didn't drown out your voice with some annoying looping music to 'jazz it up'. I appreciate that.
If you have the mange most can smell it. I think some are blind to it though. It's the same chemical as stomach acid. Which is why everyone says it smells like vomit. Same thing. It kind of reminds me of stinky feet a little too. It's butyric acid.
Thanks for watching David!
If they stink you will know alright, smells like vomit.
Thumbs up here, too, for not adding noise.
Interesting subject.
Agreeing on thump up regarding the non existing music. Intresting video, learned someting new today...
A good, informative, well explained, video with no music or dramatics. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the wonderful video, and a huge thanks for not ruining it with crappy background music.
I don't know why some people feel compelled to add annoying background music throughout their videos.
Great video
I noticed you did the treatments in alphabetical order:
Acetone, ammonia, bleach and vinegar.
Thanks for a straightforward demo, with no musical soundtrack.
The order was random, but maybe I subconsciously put them in alphabetic order...
FIRE!! Flame from a torch, stove, or even a butane lighter. I've done it before. It melts that stuff right back into the handle where it came from. It works on other plastics too. Stadium maintenance crews even do it on the plastic seats using a weed burner torch.
Does it get rid of the smell?
A heat gun, not hairdryer, works great.
I have seen that as well. Does the heat cause the plastic to be brittle?
@@budd1814 Not that I"ve noticed.
I would assume that heating the handle would make it smell worse.
I’ll have to admit that was my cure in the past. I hated opening the drawer to that smell, plus the Phillips blade always wore out quickly. I made my living with my tools and when I could finally afford Snap-On screw drivers, I never had a screw driver problem again. With the exception of lost or stolen tools, I still have and use these screw drivers today. Some of which were bought in the 80’s🙂 But I still like watching folks trying to figure ways to save and use old tools. I have family that keep telling me that I need to get rid of my tools, but how can you get rid of your tools! I just can’t understand it!
I'm a fan of wood handle tools. It was fun trying to beat the mange!
I have a bunch of tools that I inherited from my dad. Most of them need rust removal, and a few screwdrivers have crumbled or missing handles. I've been thinking of browning them after rust removal to make them look nicer and then making wooden handles. I have a bunch of small hardwood scraps that were given to me which would make excellent handles.
I have a Snap On cotter pin extractor. The black handle developed cracks, then broke completely off. I bought it in the early 80s.
Odd, I'm 60 and have used Snap-On stuff here and there thru the years. Never had the handles deteriorate like Craftsman, but the quality of the blades has always been poor, not much better than Craftsman stuff was. Used everything from the 70's thru the early 2000's, they were all relatively soft. I purchased a set of Japanese made Vessel JIS drivers (Japanese Phillips) 20 years ago when I started my career in industrial maintenance (CNC machines/ancillary equipment), used every day and they still show very little wear. Amazing! The Snap-On & Craftsman drivers would show damage after only a couple of uses. I take care of my tools and am careful not to cam-out drivers, didn't help, they're just too soft.
I saw good results with WD40. Spayed it on, left it for a couple on minutes and wiped it off. The mange was gone. No odor. No damage to the plastic. I did not expect it to be so effective.
Thanks!
Wd40....💬🤔👍🏻👍🏻
WD40? Interesting. For years I've been using a mix of 1 part formula 409, 1 part household ammonia and 2 parts water, a formula I got from an antique radio collector for the same purpose. I also discovered that oxyclean crystals dissolved in warm water with a dab of dish detergent added works equally well. The oxyclean mixture is also excellent for removing nicotine tar and cigarette smoke residue
I tried some of that yellow alkaline based spray cleaner, took the white right off. Works for that sticky rubber problem too. Haven't found a cure for the odor, but it's not so bad. If it's bacterial based, perhaps UV light?
While I'm watching this I'm thinking ..."I wonder if .......".. Yup you guessed it!
Wakodahatchee Chris
Great Test! I believe that the dreaded mange is a result of improperly mixed CAB, Western Forge was notorious for bad mixes and a few other companies had their bad batches. When properly mixed the Acetate handles should last a lifetime and cure properly. Great stuff!
On their website PB Swiss admits that they add vanilla scent to their CAB screwdrivers handles to mask the odor. They also recommend not storing them in air tight containers.
Some have suggested that the bad CAB mix, directly affects the handles during the curing stage.
I think you are right, I have some SK Tools handles that are just fine after 20 plus year, but my Craftsmen don't look so good.
Yeah the C in CAB is basically wood pulp. Supposedly if you use more of the A it helps with stability. More A makes for thicker cell walls. Then the mange can't attack so effectively. I imagine the A costs a lot more than the C does. Which is why many cheap out on adding the A. There's a similar problem with Bakelite. Cheap Bakelite has a lot of filler in it.
Don't know about that. I have Craftsman screwdrivers in a tool box in my basement that still look like new and others in my tool box in the garage that have turned white. Not that different in age if any. Maybe a couple of years at most..
The results were informative. I'm going to give the ammonia test a shot. It looks as though may save some scraping. Many thanks for taking the time to do this and sharing with us. 😉👍
Try some scented ammonia - it may help with the odor.
That ammonia worked great. Interesting video.
Thanks Ben! It was fun playing mad scientist!
@@mrbenmall Ammonia is a base with a ph of 11-13. It makes sense that it would help neutralize butyric acid with a ph of 4.8
Ammonia and a toothbrush.👍
The knobs of old 1950s tube hifi and radios often develop a similar white, moldy crust; a radio collector shared a simple formula that works: 1 part formula 409, 1 part household ammonia and 2 parts water. More recently, I discovered that a solution of Oxyclean crystals in warm water with a dab of dish soap works equally well.
@@dejavu666wampas9 Wife's toothbrush?
I had the same problem with my Craftsman screwdrivers. I cleaned them up with a power wire brush and then just dipped them in polyurethane and hung them dry overnight. They look just fine now that was years ago. I didn't bother to sniff them lately. I think my smell overpowers any smell coming off a screwdriver.
I'm glad you found a process that works for you!
Some of my 50 year old Craftsman screwdrivers are starting to do the same thing. One Snap On cotter pin extractor I have, the handle cracked and fell off.
I have a lot of craftsman screwdrivers that are over 40 years old They all look fine but they do stink.
Project Farm would be proud! GJ
Thanks David.
Glad I ran across this. Very informative. I have a few old radios where the knobs keep getting this stuff on them. I had cleaned it off thinking someone who had filthy hands make the coating. I never thought that it was the plastic decomposing.
Thanks for watching! I hope you get those radio knobs looking like new!
An antique radio collector gave me this formula: 1 part formula 409, 1 part household ammonia and 2 parts water. I also discovered that oxyclean crystals dissolved in warm water with a dab of dish soap works really well.
@@goodun2974this result makes me wonder if the ammonia was the only thing in the 409/water mix that worked. But maybe the soap in the 409 helped dissolve the resulting paste.
I was impressed that the ammonia worked the best in removing the mange. Thanks for doing this experiment as at lest we know what will work.
Thanks John! It was fun experimenting!
And --- a great big ole thank you for saving me ten minutes watching the rest of this video!!
And --- a great big ole thank you for saving me ten minutes watching the rest of this video!!
What handyman doesn’t have this situation? A tradesman most likely wouldn’t because he unlike many of us uses the tools daily. What you don’t say is where this problem comes from? I believe the answer is twofold. First the material the handles were/are made from. Second is oil from the users skin plus actual skin debris left behind after use. Oil (sebum) from human body is quite a problem for me not only on most any other objects but tools too. To avoid the formation of this problem (mange) simply clean all your tools after use then put away. The other solution is wear nitrile or latex gloves. Personally I don’t like wearing gloves because hands sweat and gloves get gross from the moisture collection inside. By the way, I liked your video, and my money was on ammonia since it is a caustic cleaner and as you demonstrated it will kill the bacteria that has accumulated on the tools handle. I use old tooth brushes to do tasks similar to this then I can rinse and use again or if too nasty toss them. Now I think I’ll go find a couple of nasty screw drivers to clean. Thanks, I really didn’t know about this until I saw your video.
When exposed to excessive heat and moisture, the CAB can degrade into butyric acid, causing “the mange” and the rotten smell. PB Swiss adds vanilla to their CAB handles to mask the odor.
Great video! I’ve been trying to figure out the cure for the stink in my tool boxes for over 40 years….nice to know I’m not alone in this!
Thanks John! A viewer suggested the 2K epoxy clear. It would be a big investment, but if you can coat a bunch at once...
Yeah if you keep tools enclosed the smell can get potent. You have two options. Either you keep cleaning the mangy tools or you just toss them out. I've looked for a definitive fix and I've never found it. That ammonia did a good job. But ammonia has it's own bouquet let's say. All of this may be why I like wooden handled screwdrivers so much. The smell is from a chemical that makes puke stink. Butyric acid which is stomach bile.
@@1pcfred Oh interesting. You sure got that right about wood handled drivers.
Agreed. I always thought maybe it was grease from my hands. Going to try this tonight
@@Mitch-p9n the topic of mange is somewhat complicated. But hand grease may play a role in the breakdown of the plastic material. Some research suggests the mange is a bacteria? Acetate handles are made out of wood pulp. I know it doesn't look like wood but that's chemistry for ya.
Useful demonstration, I'm more of a wooden handled fan but always great to know there's a cure out there.
I'm a fan of wood handles too. These test subjects are already in the "lathe project" bin.
Great video. This is really useful info. I have a few USA Craftsman screwdrivers starting to develop this and I do not want to throw them away.
Viewers have also recommended lighter fluid, rubbing alcohol and WD-40. Good luck!
Wow! I'm 62 and have been fascinated by plastics of all kinds since childhood. I didn't know until your video that there was a type of plastic called cellulose acetate butyrate. I checked, and one of my Craftsman screwdrivers does indeed have "mange."
Thank you so much for this informative video. Testing for the win!
Thanks for watching! I've got a Mange 2 video coming up soon - stay tuned!
Great video, MagDad!
The mystery ring around the shaft when you used the bleach was likely corrosion that occurred at the waterline, where there was the presence of both bleach (a salt derivative) and oxygen.
Thanks.
You will get the same corrosion line if you use Evapo Rust on a ferrous metal object, if a portion of the object is out of the solution & exposed to the air.
Great review, thanks. Very helpful.
Thanks for watching Mark!
Very good presentation and extremely useful. I tried the ammonia. IT WORKED!!! I let a bunch of screwdrivers soak for a day or two in clear ammonia - didn't even have to wipe most of them. They came out clear almost looking like NEW! If you let them soak for a day or two you don't have to wipe. But get your ammonia at Walmart - it's a LOT cheaper than at other places! If you have a bunch you may have to change out the ammonia with new. The white crud kind of floats in there solution. Wow! All the remedies and even the things I've tried and this works without melting the handles. Thank you!!!
I'm glad it worked for you!
Hey !Bonjour Professeur Magdad, vraiment intéressant le cours pour ôté la moisissure sur les manches des tournevis. C'est vrai qu'il faut essayer plusieurs choses pour voir un résultat correct. Il est vrai qu'il ne reste qu'un seul qui soit relativement stable. Merci pour le partage. ❤
Thanks for watching Patrick! It was fun to experiment!
AWESOME research vid!
I've always used Simple Green in the sink w/ hot water and a old toothbrush and a brass wire brush if needed , dry tool , then a wipe down with WD-40 and a cloth rag.
Thanks for watching!
Well, that's conclusive - ammonia bath to loosen and dissolve the "mange" and light physical abrasion to remove it. That handle looked restored to me. And perhaps they meant that you should bathe the handle in baking soda and water overnight to remove the odor. I have a number of old screwdrivers that exhibit this decomposition, which I just tolerated; now I know how to bring them back. Thanks! Very nicely organized and narrated straightforward video.
Thanks! I'm glad you like the video!
CAB can break down in the presence of heat, moisture, or bacteria. It breaks down into cellulose, acetic acid (vinegar), and butyric acid. This process can be accelerated in a closed box or drawer where the free acid can not escape. One way to slow the process in a closed box or drawer is to put in a container of baking soda and change as needed. This will capture any free acids and smell.
At the end of the video I tried the baking soda and it didn't work.
@@357magdad He did not say it fixed the smell but that it slowed the process.
Butyric acid is the puke smell too.
My toolbox is kept in my garage. I live in central Florida. Hot and humid most of the time. Some of my handles are starting to do the same thing.
@@beanMosheen, The greenpeace environmentalists who used to harass whaling ships would throw "bombs" made of rancid butter at them. It's supposed to be a truly vile, horrible smell.
OK guys, I may have stumbled on the best fix of all. I have seen all the YT videos on this fix or that fix, but nothing seems to compare with what I found. I wish I could attach a photo but can't. I have Craftsman screwdrivers that are upwards of 50 years old. As you know, the older ones get what was described as the "mange". We learn that the mange is caused by a bacteria that feeds off the decaying cellulose in the plastic screwdriver handles. I tried CLR overnight and it softened the mange so I could wire brush and wipe it clean but required some effort. While doing this, I saw a bottle of Wet & Forget on my shelf and decided to give it a try. It is designed to kill algae, mold, etc on housing, so I dunked a couple screwdrivers in full strength. Within 2 hours, all mange was complete gone except for a couple nooks and crannies. I'm not sure if the foul odor is gone, because there are other screwdrivers sitting there yet to be done. Wet & Forget is used once a year so will the screwdrivers last a year????
Thanks! Let me know if it cures the stink!
I wonder if a combination might work better. Use the ammonia first to remove the mange, then maybe a quick acetone dip to rip the outer layer of plastic off to get rid of the odor.
Give it a try Randy! Let me know if it works for you!
Great video! Now I know why my tools sometimes stink. I couldn’t figure out what the smell originated from. I guess I’ll have to bag up my stinky tools and set them aside until your video on how to make them stop stinking!
Anyway, I just subscribed and will check out your other videos. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
It's too bad Sears is out of business. Their return policy on Craftsman tools was legendary.
Good, informative video. Thanks!
Thanks for watching Bob!
Craftsman tools are still sold by Lowes - they bought the Craftsman name. I don't know if they retained the Craftsman warranty, although I heard anecdotally that they did. Worth investigating further. And regardless, Craftsman tools are pretty good for the price. I once - years ago - brought in a broken Craftsman router bit (!) and they replaced it. A friend found a Craftsman screwdriver in the woods, rusted with a broken handle, and they (Sears) replaced it. I think the cost of replacement pales in comparison with the good will and encouragement to "no-risk" buy, for a net gain in business.
@@MrGsteele Lowes/New Craftsman wouldn't replace an original Craftsman long handled shovel that still had the original sticker stating that it had an unconditional lifetime guarantee. They will warranty their New Craftsman, but you may need to have your receipt. You can send in a request, on-line, to see if they will honor the original Craftsman warranty, but good luck there. You have to get a return authorization from them first. Good luck.
I just went through this with a ton of hand tools that I got from my father. I tried mechanical removal, and that worked but was too labor intensive. I initially thought that he had dipped his tools in wax to increase grip with oily hands when he was working on the cars. So thanks for the explanation. I never noticed any bad smells, though. Anyway, because I thought that it was some kind of wax, I tried hot water and it worked fast! I have solar hot water and it comes out of the tap >140F, maybe up to 160F at times. This water is so hot that if I run it for too long, it melts the rubber washers in the handle valve and causes them to leak, so I just do it for short periods. Bottom line: use hotter water and the stuff immediately turns clear and melts off, then finish up with one of those shop towels (like for instance Tub o' Towels) that are impregnated with mild cleaners and lanolin to get the last bits out of the grooves before it cools off and you're done with numerous tools in a short time. The lanolin does wonders for the metal parts, giving them a light coating which is awesome for rust resistance. Cheers!
Thanks!
The ammonia results were very interesting! There is an extremely similar issue with plastic on pre war and post war model trains. Its a weird solution but I tried it and oddly enough it worked. A hair drier of all things. It literally got shiny and clear then just wipe off any residue. I havent noticed an odor but Ive only ever seen it on smaller parts.
I've seen people revive oxidized plastic on old three wheelers like that.
It's hard to find good screwdrivers with wooden handles, but those are my favorite!!
Me too!
There's plenty to choose from on eBay. If you want new ones, I can recommend Felo brand screwdrivers, made in Germany. About $50 for a set.
As the ammonia seemed to have done some good, I'd suggest a (weak at first) lye solution. Careful with that! Ammonia in water forms a weak base, hence my hypothesis that a lye solution may help. After clearing the plastic I'd suggest sealing the handle with a poly coat both to seal in the odor and give some ongoing protection to the handle.
I showed a handle I clear coted at the end of the video. It didn't work for me.
Be sure to wash the glasses before returning to Mrs. Magdad. Maybe wash more than once
I bought them just for this experiment. I think I'll keep them in the shop.
@@357magdad you get them used? The used market for that kind of thing has collapsed.
@@357magdad A lesson from chemistry class; Don't use drinking glasses for stuff that could harm a thirsty person.
@@viccingold I bought the glasses just for the experiment.
Dollar tree glass vases work great for a lot of things, Not just for flowers.
Well this solves the mystery of why there's always a few screwdrivers in any given bin at the flea market that look like they've been used to stir paint with the handle. I've never had any of my screwdrivers do this, and I have at least a couple of those Craftsmans around that go back to the late 80s or early 90s.
Stay away from the mange!
Would say the best combo will be to do the ammonia dip, followed by a scrub to get rid of the powder, and then rinse it and let it dry. Then the bleach soak to handle the remaining odour, but very important to have the rinse and dry between the ammonia and chlorine, or you will have a high risk of any trapped ammonia reacting with the bleach to liberate chlorine gas. Alos would suggest cloudy ammonia instead of clear, higher concentration will help with a faster reaction, and it should be at around 40C as well, so put the small cup in a bowl of freshly boiled water for 3 minutes before starting. The boiled water can serve as a pre soak cleaner, and post ammonia soak rinse as well.
I didn't like having the ammonia and bleach in the same room!
I use a hair dryer to get the mange off old fishing lures. Blast them and the mange just goes away, lures are like new. Not sure it would work on the handles. I will have to give it a try on the next mange handle I come across. The mange looks identical to the ones on the lures I treat with 1500 watts.
Try it out and let us know Marty!
I have used a green scrub pad, like that on a dish cleaning sponge, essentially like a scotch brite pad but not abrasive. They sell packs in the supermarket where I am and I use washing up liquid and water and the scrubby pad to clean everything. Works excellent on all sorts including screwdriver handles.
Once clean I flame polish or use a buffing wheel to bring back the shine, never had mine smell very much of anything though.
I'm glad yours don't stink! I wouldn't wish that smell on anyone!
Automotive polishing compound for clear coat works great
Thanks for watching Donald! I've had really luck with steel wool, Flitz and PlastX . Check out my latest plastic handle project: ua-cam.com/video/Xr4fVm9NxQA/v-deo.html
I've always had good luck with Mr. Clean. Thanks for the testing, it will help a lot of collectors out.
Thanks for watching Thomas!
Excellent video! Given that the ammonia was clearly the best when it came to mange removal, perhaps another video could be trying to deodorize the handles after an ammonia bath and wipe down. Some suggestions would be another couple of minutes in ammonia, a couple minutes in acetone, baking soda or washing soda dissolved in water, isopropyl alcohol, denatured alcohol or methanol, kerosene, gasoline, diesel, vinegar, hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid), diluted bleach, oxy clean and water, shampoo and water, and Dawn dish soap and water. Plus plain water as a control. And obviously be careful with all the flammables.
This would give you the three main solvent groups (water, alcohols, and hydrocarbons), acids and bases, as well as some more standard cleaning products. Surely one of them has got to work, right?
And I saw someone else suggest flame as an option, too.
Try some pf your ideas out and let me know if you have any success.
A lot of things we have that are plastic experience some surface degredation. A different problem than the mange is the surface of some plastic with get sticky. One recommendation I tried is to scrub the surface with a paste (with water) and baking soda. It does work to some limited degree. Not sure if you repeat it if it improves with the number of scrubs. It would be interesting what the industry for PAB has as a reaction. It seems they have been mum. Maybe they feel a consumer shouldn't expect a lifelong un-mangey relationship with their screwdriver. Another problem with some plastic handled tools is that they will literally melt, especially when in contact with some other plastics. I like your willingness to test and experiment in the shop. It helps your viewers.
It was fun playing mad scientist! On their website PB Swiss admits that they add vanilla scent to their CAB screwdrivers handles to mask the odor. They also recommend not storing them in air tight containers.
The plastics that experience that are Styrenic block copolymers, TPS (TPE-s)
Thermoplastic polyolefinelastomers, TPO (TPE-o)
Thermoplastic vulcanizates, TPV (TPE-v or TPV)
Thermoplastic polyurethanes, TPU (TPU)
Thermoplastic copolyester, TPC (TPE-E)
Thermoplastic polyamides, TPA (TPE-A)
Typically used for soft grip type layers on harder plastic parts. In my opinion it is used so you throw the item away and buy a new one.
You can remove the TPA (etc) by scrubbing with isopropanol
I saw a video where a guy suggested using gasoline as a solvent to fix that nasty sticky plastic enclosure problem. Someone chimed in that white gas would be even better since it's essentially more refined gasoline. Haven't tried it yet myself, but that sticky plastic is just the worst!
Nice experienment Magdad! That ammonia explains why you don't want to use glass cleaner that contains it in tinted windows👍
Thanks Vic!
Window cleaner strips the wax from floor vinyl tile/linoleum.
What's been working for me is dipping the handles into two cycle mix gas to clean all the oil and grime off and wipe it down with an oily rag. The oily rag will do the job on it's own without the gas every year or so as a touch-up and prevents rust.
Thanks William!
Thanks for the video, very interesting and informative. The ammonia worked very well. The baking soda and plastic bag should work - as long as you leave the screwdriver in the bag. LOL
It is amazing how some acetate handles hold up over time, and some develop the dreaded mange and odour. I do wonder what the differences could be. Perhaps different manufacturers with slightly different formulations for the acetate resin.
Dave.
PB Swiss still uses CAB for their handles. The website says they add vanilla to mask the bad odor.
That's what I was thinking. Just leave the screwdriver in the bag. From what I've read the handles that can get mange didn't have a stabilizer added to the plastic or something. Something just went wrong in the manufacturing process. Because it is only some handles that can get mangy. I've seen some handles completely decompose. Although precisely what happened there I don't know. They weren't tools I bought new or anything. So anything could have happened to those tools in their lifetimes. There's a lot of mystery surrounding the mange. The information available is incomplete.
Try adding water to the baking soda and let it sit for 24 hours.
1980's Xcelite screwdriver and nut driver handles will develop this white crust as well. A mix of 1 part formula 409,1 part household ammonia, and 2 parts water will clean it off: or simply use oxyclean crystals dissolved in warm water with a dab of dish soap, which also works like magic on cigarette smoke and nicotine tar. The 409 and ammonia mixture is something I learned from an antique radio collector.
@@goodun2974 anything will clean mange off acetate. The problem is eventually it always comes back. So you will forever be cleaning it off.
It's not a mold but a decay of the CAB. CAB is a cellulose molecule bound to butyrate. Celulose can also be bound to nitrates and other molecules with a free electron shell. All cellulose plastics will have a tendency to breakdown. When this happens, the cellulose turns white and is quite sticky. The process will happen to any CAB plastic but especially if it's stored in an enclosed space with reduced airflow such as a toolbox or drawer. Extreme temperature changes can also weaken the bond and accelerate the process. Ammonia is good for cleaning off the residue because it has a weak bond on the nitrogen atom and can bond to the cellulose making it easier to wipe away.
Nothing will remove the smell though since that is inherent to the CAB itself. You can cover it up with paint but as the CAB breaks down it will decay the paint, and the smell will come back. Short of melting the CAB down and reforming it, you may be stuck. One thing you can try is to paint the handle with a nitrocellulose paint. It's possible the cellulose paint could form a thin bonded layer on the handle, but I've not tried it.
I should warn you that CAB is flammable and out gasses a lot. When trying to remove the white sticky stuff, wear a mask. If you decide to paint the handle with a nitrocellulose paint, use a respirator with VOC rated cartridges. And DON'T paint near an open flame heat source or you may have a very bad day.
Thanks for the info!
Ammonia for the win. I was going to suggest a clear coat, but It appears you are 4 years ahead of me. Great information btw, Thank You.
Viewers have suggested a two part clear epoxy coat.
@@357magdad Thats a possibility
A spray lacquer helps. No coatings do well on gripped surfaces, but for a tool that sits in a drawer and sees occasional use, it's adequate.
Great test. I have a drawer full of old Craftsman screwdrivers and most of them need the treatment. I have cleaned 2 of them mechanically to good effect. Thanks
Cleaning is a temporary fix. Any handle that can get mange will get it if conditions are ripe. Some research I've done suggests that it's partly a manufacturing defect when the handles were cast. Because it doesn't happen to every handle. Some are susceptible and some are not. The plastic just isn't right in mangy tools.
Give the ammonia a try! Maybe scented ammonia would help with the smell.
One thing I know is that "The Mange" feeds off itself so don't leave screwdrivers closed up in a toolbox or drawer....I guess my only other idea might be try some form of UV light to see if it stops the bacterial degradation.........Fun Tests!
The older project was hanging on my project wall and still started to cloud up. I don't think there is a cure for the mange.
@@357magdad try standard gasoline
@@CothranMike Give it a try and let me know how you make out!
@@357magdad it works on that thin rubbery film that goes gooey overtime making the objects encased in it useless over time.
UV causes acetate to breakdown too. It's a different mechanism than the mange though. But I think that's long term exposure? I think exposure to UV makes acetate craze. Like all the little cracks you see in plastic. All I know is I've read UV breaks acetate down.
I service old radios and guitar amps, I have one that has this on the knobs. Now I know what it is. The problem is the brass inserts, don't know what the ammonia would do to them, and don't want to find out the hard way. I am, very glad to know what they are made of and what this is. Thanks
Thanks! Good luck with your knobs!
Ammonia won't hurt the brass. It will brighten it up, actually. But rinse it out afterward with hot water to prevent the residue from causing corrosion on the steel setscrews.
Mange is something I've researched. The ammonia was impressive. If there is a cure I've never found it myself. The other question is how come some handles are affected and others are not? Although there is some suggestion that infections can spread. I don't know. The fix a lot of people adopt is just tossing out the infected tools. With chemistry you'd think someone out there knows something.
Someone knows, especially manufacturers that have experienced it with their product. They are remaining mum.
Yes. I’ve thrown mine out after trying numerous fixes with no luck.
According to their website, PB Swiss adds vanilla to their CAB plastic handles to mask the odor.
@@357magdad what I've read seems to suggest the mange is bacteria. The C in CAB stands for cellulose. Which is pretty digestible. So I really don't see how flavoring food is going to help much. I imagine there's more effective stabilizers they could be using that actually stop the problem. But they're probably toxins.
@@onionhead5780 disposal is the only sure remedy for the mange that I've ever heard.
Living out west I've never encountered this issue nor was I aware that it existed. Interesting video none the less.
Viewers from Arizona have commented the same thing.
Nice video. Very educational.
Thanks! It was fun experimenting!
I myself use a torch. And it brings it clarity back on that 80%.
Thanks James!
More impressive you’ve got vintage craftsman screwdrivers now. Just try them in the dishwasher. You’ll have a laugh, but don’t leave them in overnight or they’ll rust.
Mrs Magdad won't let me use her dishwasher...
I have some plastic handle screwdrivers, that have over the years, become battered, scratched and bruised but i dont think they have rotted, but to make them like new again, every few years, ill clean them, give them a light sanding, then rotate the handle over a burner hob for about 20 seconds or so, where it will melt the thinest outer layer, then dip it in water to solidify it again, making the surfaces perfectly smooth and glossy again, looking like new.
Thanks Jack!
Thanks for another real world Magdad test. I wondered if you could save the plastic from further mange by spraying with clear sealer, and you answered that question. Looks like you can slow down the mange, but not neutralize it.
Thanks Pat! The mange is unstoppable!
All research I've done seems to suggest that the handles that go rancid are just defective. Because it isn't all acetate that does it. Although there is some evidence that mange can be transmitted? I've seen handles next to mangy handles starting to get funny themselves. But who knows?
@@1pcfred Good point. Some reaction no doubt. But it would seem that since it still degrades after a coating that it is not exposure to air that causes it.
@@ihrescue we don't actually know if those coatings are completely air tight. A lot of finishes do breathe. Some bacteria is anionic too. There is some debate as to precisely what the mange actually is. I've read a bit more about it recently. Some research has been done. It's pretty dense stuff though. I am no biologist or chemist.
Had the same mange with old radio and tv knobs. Ammonia has been my go-to since the 60s. There's usually a wax left behind that needs removal. WD-40 or kerosene usually removes it.
A coat of clear laquer or enamel seems to prevent or slow regrowth.
The clear coat didn't work for me.
I was just talking to my son while watching this. The best cure for the mange is to cut off the plastic handle and make a beautiful wood handle to go on. ;) Thanks for the informative and interesting video.
Check out this project: ua-cam.com/video/QXEBf1FXNtU/v-deo.html
I've had this issue with my tools and I used WD40 as the solvent to get rid of the white. That has worked very well. In fact it did help the smell. As far as the smell is concerned. That is butyric acid because these handles were made of butyral. This is a very common plastic because it looks good and is strong. You didn't smell it initially because 1) you didn't stick it up to your nose and smell it; 2) it had a lot of other smells like mold release and stabilizers on it when it was bought. In fact there is a brand that calls its product butyrate (pronounced Beauty Rate). Butyric acid is the smell of vomit. Protesters of many things have dumped gallons of this chemical into entry ways or internal spaces to make people puke upon entering those spaces.
Thanks Rick!
19.48 minutes when 5.00 minutes would have cured snoring !
I'm sorry my video put you to sleep. The good news is that UA-cam is a big place and I'm sure you can find content that holds your interest.
Amen. This video should have been Max 5 minutes. Who wants to sit and look at someone spinning the screwdriver handle for 30 seconds for a minute a pop?
I see opportunity here, your Ammonia and a circular brush that adjusts for various diameters of handles, maybe a wire brush configured in a circular pattern. I liked your video!
I'm glad you liked the video David!
I really enjoyed the whole video. Admittedly I'm super drunk. I can't wait to get to my workshop to see if I have this screwdriver problem.
I'm glad you enjoyed the video Chris!
Hi just retired my old tool chest for a new one and found almost all of my vintage craftsman screw drivers had a chalk like film on them tryed wiping them with degreaser and cloth rag not good results and then i tryed 000 steel whool and wd 40 and wipe down turned out nice looking that was two months ago. Good luck.
Thanks Robert!
Cure #5 Dumpster
Cure #6 replace with a custom wood handle! Check out how it turned out: ua-cam.com/video/QXEBf1FXNtU/v-deo.html
Tossing mangy screwdrivers is one of the most popular fixes.
I abhor our throwaway culture,
If you plan to throw them out, mail them to me.
@@KC9UDX mangy old screwdrivers aren't worth shipping costs. It is a manufacturing defect. Not all acetate gets mangy. The acetate that does get the mange lacks stabilizers. So there's no way to permanently fix it. The plastic just wasn't made right. But that might have been a knock on effect of our throwaway culture? They're actually working on making acetate more biodegradable. Because of course they would.
@@1pcfred you must've thought they were worth it when you bought them. Or, you just thought you'd be cheap and lazy and throw them away.
If after treating with ammonia, rinsing, letting dry thoroughly, if you lightly abraded the surface with 300-400 grit sandpaper, the foam blocks might be easiest, you could then apply 3-4 coats of cheap cyanoacrylate “superglue“ a light sand in between coats, if you thoroughly covered the cellulose and buff the final finish to a rough polish, you should have a finish that will resist smelling deteriorating any further.
Essentially cover the organic plastic with a synthetic plastic of similar consistency and seal the old stuff.
I showed a screwdriver I clear coated at the end of the video. It didn't work for me.
Ammonia solution works pretty well removing the material that is in the final stage of decomposition, so it likely should be used as the first stage treatment. I had a lot of success with using brake cleaner spray to renew the surface after it was treated in other ways - it needs to be sprayed over the handle sparingly, allowing it to evaporate.
Sodium hypochlorite (bleach) must be avoided since it promotes corrosion, including the cavities inside the handle (since the blade isn't sealed perfectly all around).
Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) is a "grandma's method" of odor removal from the air inside the enclosed volumes (e.g. fridge). It barely works even in that case. But it can't possibly do anything to the butyrate ion that is produced when CAB decomposes. It might help to remove a substantial amount of surface material partially affected by decomposition using organic solvent (acetone, brake cleaner) after the bulk of fully decomposed material was removed with ammonia.
The acetone didn't get rid of the stink.
@@357magdad I have some butyric acid, might test some ways to neutralize it. Using some strong base (sodium hydroxide) seems promising, but I'm not sure. Ideally, decarboxylation would get rid of it, but it's too long to achieve that by simple heating, for example.
Sodium hypochlorite, the active ingredient in bleach, decomposes quickly in hot water. This makes the bleach less effective. You should always use cold water with bleach.
I was following a viewer's instructions, 50/50 with hot water.
I love my xecelite CAB drivers even smelly. CAb handle is durable and provide nice grip. I know classic PBswiss CAB handle was flavored with vanilla to prevent bad smell. But, it was just sweet stinky handle. CAB handle need frresh air to breath.
PB Swiss cautions against storing their screwdrivers in an air tight location.
If Mrs. Magdad happens to have an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner, try the ammonia in it with the screwdriver. You just might see some action.
Ammonia is what I use for my wife's wedding band and other jewelry, mixed about 1 part ammonia to 2 parts water. )full strength would be fine, too). It works a whole lot better than the jewelry cleaner that is sold for that purpose. It makes the gold, and diamonds really shine, and sparkle and it doesn't damage the steel basin or the jewelry, either.
It's cool to watch, too. The ammonia melts skin, and for the first minute or so in the ultrasonic cleaner, a cloud of melting skin "explodes", moving away from the jewelry. (It's dead skin cells that make the jewelry look dirty and dingy. (I don't think that she realizes that I "Borrow" the cleaner occasionally to use in the garage.))
I have no idea what that "Mange" stuff is. I've got Craftsman screwdrivers that my Dad had before I was born (in 1960), and just about all ages between then and now, and I've never seen anything like that on any of them. That is a problem that I wasn't even aware of. What causes it?
Thanks for the video. I hope I never have this problem and hope that you can get rid of it.
Thanks for the info. Unfortunately the ammonia did not cure the stink.
@@357magdad I've turned a few things over in my head, trying to picture what the surface would look like on the molecular level, and haven't come up with much.
It seems like PBlaster or WD-40 could possibly penetrate the surface enough to get the residuals that the ammonia didn't get. I don't know.
An alternative "Cleaner" that was overlooked was one of the best, Gasoline. Also, Zippo (or Ronsonol) type lighter fluid. I generally use a small artist paint brush or a toothbrush when using these, depending on what I'm cleaning. Sometimes terry cloth or paper towels, or just soak in a small container (greasy bicycle wheel bearings).
Seeing how it's basically wood, some sort of sealer may help contain the smell. Maybe clear nail polish, or clear model paint, thinned down with mineral spirits or paint thinner, using either a fine brush or an air brush. Two or three super-fine coats may seal the smell in, but I don't know how it would affect the grip. Maybe just a coat of some sort of wax would help.
Again, I've never seen a screwdriver in that condition, have no idea how it got that way or what it smells like.
It even occurred to me to get a large bottle of the cheapest, loudest perfume I could find on the clearance shelf at Macy's (Chanel #5 would do it but the cost is prohibitive. Might as well throe the driver away and buy several new sets)
Well, I'll let you go. I feel a brain cramp coming on. Have a great week!
@@tinkerscorner54 I bought 5 more mangy screwdrivers at the flea market so I can try some more cures.
I use a general biocide/fungicide of neem oil, potassium bicarbonate, copper acetate and copper sulfate. A few of my dipped handles on unused pliers get mildew as well.
A problem with lots of things like alcohol is that while they may harm living fungi, the spores are often unaffected.
Ammonia is stripping the fat (lipids) out much the way bleach or lye does. You can feel the sickness on your fingers as it turns you into soap. Microbes don't handle that very well.
I'm glad you found a formula that works for you.
Ammonia worked great. Thanks for the tip!
Thanks! I wish it helped with the stink!
Very good educational video, much better than scraping, Cheers !
Thanks!
I always learn something from your videos MagDad. Thanks for posting this informative video!
Thanks Bill! It was fun playing mad scientist!
I have two sets of screwdrivers same make one flat blade the set philips the philips which are blue are fine the flat blades which are red handles are decomposing. I also have some black handles for nearly 40 years and they are fine too so dark colours seem best.
I think the solid color plastic is a different formula.
I worked for 40 years on elevators, never once had this happen to the craftsman screwdrivers I used everyday. They were exposed to a lot of oil, grease, solvents and wiped clean often. Now some of my craftsman screwdrivers in my tool box at home grew this white chalky you call mange. They were used a lot less. My Klein's have never done this.
It seems to be triggered by heat and moisture. Being confined in a tool box with a lid seems to also make it worse.
I came across a few screwdrivers like this while reorganizing the garage. I cleaned them up with 99% alcohol and a rag. They look perfect now and I don't notice any smell. I didn't even know this had a name, or a smell.
I'm glad it worked for you!
love this. My dad used to say "the maaaange" when describing something gross.
I'm glad you enjoyed it!
informative video, but I enjoyed it lots more after I went into settings and cranked it up to 2x speed. I'm going to try the ammonia dip, and then consider applying some sort of preventative coating, like polyurethane, or try shrinking a thin walled plastic bottle onto the handle with a heat gun.
Thanks for watching! Let me know how you make out!
My father bought me a set of Craftsman tools when I graduated HS in 1969. I still have and use those tools. The gray plastic box containing the small socket set still smells like "vomit" to this day.
It's hard to get rid of the stink!
I usually just spray paint my handles anyway. Red for flat, blue for Philips, green for most others.
I like the translucency of plastic.
Back in the past when nearly all screwdrivers had black handles, I used to dip my screwdrivers in a liquid rubber made specifically for this purpose that came in various dayglow or neon fluorescent type colors. It made it easier to find a missing screwdriver within the black hole of a vehicle with dark carpeting, or to spot it if it ended up in somebody else's toolbox. If you make your tools sufficiently ugly, nobody else won't want to steal them anyway! Nowadays you can buy screwdrivers and nut drivers in all kinds of bright colors but back in my youth it seems every tool handle was black......
Random thought but perhaps applying a resin based coating in several layers after using the ammonia to remove the mange would help to mask scratches as well as prevent reoccurrence of the bacteria by sealing it. I have no experience so take this with a few grains of salt but just wanted to throw another suggestion to try
Thanks!
Boy don’t let those glasses find their way back into the kitchen after those tests or Mrs. Magdad will have your hide. Cool testing and comparisons!
I bought glasses special for the testing. They will stay in the shop.
For the smell, try exposing the handles to the hot summer sun for a day. That method works for many items.
Thanks!
Appreciate your scientific approach. Seems no long term solution(s) have been discovered. Great video as always.
Thanks! Another good reason to own wood handle tools!
The garden stuff for mildew is copper oxychloride and available pretty much pure in big box stores.
Organic from ebay would be potassium bicarbonate.
Zinc oxide mixed into linseed oil. Cooked down castor oil adds "rubber" to it. Early tool dip. One of many, just antifungal af. Copper sulfate soap is a thing, used it on ropes.
Wow! That's a lot of chemicals.
The ammonia cure worked the best but, because the handles are *SOLID* Cellulose Acetate Butyrate (CAB), I think all cures will all be temporary fixes.
I agree.
@@357magdad - 👍
Yeah some CAB is just no good. well, all of it may be no good but some's worse than others.
I wonder if you can seal the handles after you've cleaned them with water thin CA, Cyanoacrylate glue, which bonds very well to anything containing cellulose.
@@goodun2974 I don't think CA glue holds up too well to solvents. I know acetone dissolves CA glue.
I'm 64, have a well tooled garage and never in my life have I ever seen that... In the 60's my dad had a screwdriver, that had a distinctive, almost fruity smell to the grip, but never the white coating...UK
Viewers from the UK an Australia have commented that they haven't experienced the mange in their area.
@@357magdad Yes never seen that, very strange... Clearly a global regional thing...
Thank heavens you've warned us,
thus preventing the end of the world!
Thank you! Thank you!
I'm just doin' my part to help...
Might try denatured alcohol next or just regular IPA. A rust remover might be worth a try as well, something like Rustoleum Rust Remover in a spray bottle. A waterless hand cleaner like GoJo might be worth a try as well. Since ammonia worked so well I wonder if regular treatments with ammonia based window cleaner like Windex would help prolong the effects
Great ideas! Give them a try and let me know what you find out!
Thanks for taking the time to test these methods and share the results Magdad, it's worth trying anything once to try to cure the dreaded CAB rot ! Good to see that the ammonia worked at least, I wonder if there are any chemists out there who can advise on reducing the stench ! I have a box set of Record Irwin Chisels and when you open the box there is the disgusting whiff, however as yet there is no white residue just the handles are a little tacky !
Unfortunately I think the stink is gonna be with us forever!
Yeah I have a set of Proto nut drivers and they stink to the high heavens. But they only get a little hazy. They never get the heavy white powder on them. I cleaned them after I watched this video. Not with ammonia though. I just used a cleaner on them. I just gave them a little whiff and they're still ripe. Not as bad as sometimes though.
XCellite nut drivers with handle shapes which I love, but eew the white stuff, and I always keep ammonia on hand yay!
I Buff these to clean up and then use 2k clear coat in 3 coats over the entire handle and at least a 1/4" down the driver shaft. I wait to get several that I want to restify and then do them all at once since I use a rattle can 2k clearcoat 38 261 with the internal hardener from scamazon. It works and keeps the handles isolated from the atmosphere and they Stink no more!
Thanks!
I wonder if you can see all the handles after cleaning them with water thin super glue. Woodworkers who turn pens out of wood on a lathe often seal them with thin super glue.
Several applications of quality hard wax might stop the off gassing. And it might also seal out any bacterial/fungus penetration of the plastic.
The projects I've waxed still stink.
Baking soda, liquid dishwashing detergent, and very fine scotchbrite. Silicone spray & scotchbrite a close second. Wd40/liquid wrench and Scotchbrite #3.
Unfortunately, none of those will cure the stink.
Same thing on old radio and tv knobs. A disgusting waxy white coating. If you clean it with regular soap and water, it just comes right back. You have to physically scrape it off, it is very tough to remove.
Try ammonia!
@@357magdad thanks, I'll try it !
The only thing ive had last "long term" (4 years so far) is removing the existing mange, spraying two heavy coats of *dewaxed* shellac as a sealer and odor blocker, then essentially encasing the whole handle with a layer of floor epoxy. I suspect the last part is what makes the lasting difference, which stinks because it's not cheap. Sometimes I wonder if I should just paint all my old handles with an oil based sealer primer--even though I'd hate to do so
Love the experiment vids.
I'm glad you enjoyed the video!
I like the clearness. For me painting the handles would take away from the look.
My young sons bought me a black plastic Sears utility box filled with new screwdrivers from Sears thirty years ago. My sons are adults now and the plastic handles never had any visible “mange” but always smelled like vomit. They still work fine but I always wash my hands after I use them.
PB Swiss adds vanilla to their CAB handles to mask the stink.
Ammonia for the win. Nice.
I tried many of these and got really mixed results. I found the perfect solution and it is P & S Brake Buster. This contamination is the same leach of oils from the tires and similar brake dust stuck to the rims. So, I tried P & S Brake Buster and it worked perfectly. Just spray it on full strength and use a paint brush to work it in. I works in seconds to a minute or two, and just spray it off with water. It will make it look brand new and does not affect any paints and lettering. This is a car detailing treatment and if car people use this for their expensive tires and rims, it will not damage or discolor your tool handles. Once you try this, you will not be looking for another solution. But, this does not prevent this from happening again as the plastic will still have oils being leached. You will just have to do this again maybe 5 to 10 years later. Find P & S Brake Buster at your auto detailing shop, or Amazon. Buy a small bottle to see for yourself.
Does it get rid of the stink?
@@357magdad It does get rid of the stink, as it is in the contamination. The only way that I know to prevent this, is to use your tools often. With your constant handling of the tools, your hands will be rubbing of the trace amounts each time. Maybe an air conditioned room may prevent this too. But, there is no way to dissolve all of the embedded oils, and you may not want to do this. The oils are the properties of the selected plastics and removing them, it may start yellowing and cracking (advance aging). This will be the end for your tool handles. I have a set of Xcelite nut drivers, where the metric handles have minimal issues. But, my SAE handles get very crusty. If I clean them every 3 to 5 years, it take no more than a minute per handle with the P & S Brake Buster. In 15 minutes I am finished with both sets in a touchup. Hope this helps...
Try putting a light coating of motor oil on your tool handles. I never saw this with my dad's tools; they always seemed to be coated with a fine coat of motor oil; I wonder if this prevented the mange.
Maybe!