VW T4: 2.5L with bad fuel pump
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- Опубліковано 31 жов 2015
- Seat & carpet removal:
• VW T4: 2.5L AAF ACU Fu...
Thomas
P.O. Box 83041
4827 Kingsway
Burnaby, BC
V5H 0A4
Canada
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Please keep making videos they are the best DYI VW videos on UA-cam.Thanks
I will try to do so... thanks for watching!
Thomas you are a very smart guy.......thank you for sharing!!
Kind of you to say... thank you for watching!
Good work Thomas and the waveform on the new pump looked pretty good.
+stuzman52 The current probe is a great tool to have as you know... thanks for dropping in!
Always a pleasure to leave a comment on your channel Thomas, and don't work too hard this week!
+Thomas EXOVCDS amp clamp is one of my favorite tools, I own 2 older and new versions both snap on could not live without them
+Michael Berg I use one to find a bad rad fan once (intermittent overheating in stop & go driving)... can be used on a lot of stuff, yet I always forget to use it first! D'oh!
Thanks again. Will check all that
Hi Thomas. The relay at the bottom RHS IN FUSE PANEL IS MARKED NUMBER 167 and seen that on a web site. Cheers Herman
Thanks.
I have a 2002 VW beetle, I'm looking for the "lower relay panel" located under the dash. The load reduction relay has no feed(voltage)going into it. Do you know where I can find this part,besides the dealer?
Thanks for reply Thomas. I have yet to fit fuel pump but wonder if there is a relay to control (switch on ) pump.
It's for a 1997 VW T4 transporter van with 2.5 lit 5 cylinder petrol engine
Fuse #18 is the fuel pump fuse (ua-cam.com/video/wNHW80PwgRg/v-deo.html)... the Fuel Pump Relay is the one at the bottom right corner to the right of the 53 relay (ua-cam.com/video/wNHW80PwgRg/v-deo.htmlm45s)
Hello Thomas,
Your videos are a real help for all of us with VW campervans.
I noticed that the fuel pumps in this video and your other Eurovan AAF ACU Fuel Pump Removal video are different. The one that came out of my 1993 2.5L gasoline engine Eurovan looks different than this one. Would you be able to help me with a part #?
Thanks again! I will try to follow any Amazon links or tool links you have to repay your hard work!
Send me a picture of what yours looks like. Click on fkh161 link in the description and then click "tool request" to send me the picture. Doesn't look like this?
www.ecstuning.com/b-vemo-parts/fuel-pump/1h0919651p~vem/
Good Fix!
+N Smith Time will tell.... haha, ha... cough, cough.
What is name od that OBD tester? I could use a different one cause current one doesnt have real time data only option to read and delete DTC's.
+cihuaua That's not a OBD tester / scanner... it's a digital scope.
Do you know if the 1999 Eurovan pump is the same as this 2.5L? Thanks for these awesome vids.
Yes, part numbers seem to be the same... check with whomever you buy it from (if that is true).
Hi Tomas I have sent a few messages but I do not see them
posted. I have been trying to show you the fuel pump I have that it shoots out the top wanting to know if that is just normal ? Thank you.
Post a video on your channel. I'm at work right now. Once I get a message that you uploaded a video... I'll check your channel..
Good work, very informative video.
if after replacing the pump; when you start cold The passenger compartment fills with the stench of petrol, what can this mean?
Thanks for any advice you can give me.
Check for leaks... make sure that the sealing ring is sitting correctly. Was it reused? Make sure that the pump cover is not cracked and that the collar nut / ring is tight.
@@EXOVCDS Thank you :-),
I'll have it checked, but the fact that you only feel on cold starts isn't weird?
The only way to know what it is... is to follow the smell whenever the smell is present. Why only cold & not when warm is irrelevant... in both / all cases, follow the smell to its source... then you can determine why it's only happening at certain times.
@@EXOVCDS Clear,
Thank you :-)
Great
Thank you for watching!
Hi Thomas thanks for the great vid, my pump is working ok but is quite loud and whiney. I do have a spare facet pump im thinking of deploying instead of the in tank drama..what do you reckon..?
I have no experience with converting to an external pump... if that is what you meant. You'd have to remove the in tank pump to ensure that it is not obstructing flow, so if you're in there anyways... might has well put the right pump in.
Its something I have done on a beetle, but not this van, its just I have a pump already vs buying a nice new bosch pump! But yes, you are right, I would at least have to run a fresh hose to the bottom of the tank from the outlet of the sender unit!
old pump hasn't died yet, he is loud, whiney AND I noticed fuel pump relay is quite HOT....I'm gonna change the filter (new van to me) any other idea's? Indicative of pump failure or maybe a blocked filter?
what the name off that tool you use to remove the fuel pump cover
ua-cam.com/video/Qh3k7IKOmVM/v-deo.html
Cheers for the upload. I have a t4 with a 1z 1.9tdi conversion. It's been running great till today its started chugging like its running out of fuel. My first thought was the diesel pump was packing up. Could this be the issue. I have vcds can the pump health be checked by that ? 🤔
1z tdi does not use a fuel pump in the tank... unless someone put a "low pressure lift pump" in the tank. I would start with setting the engine to TDC to make sure that the camshaft & crankshaft are "in time" and then check pump timing. Also change the fuel filter if it hasn't been changed in a while.
@EXOVCDS cheers for the reply. The fuel filter has been replaced recently. I wasn't sure if the sender has a pump built into it. Another idea I had was possibly the 12v solenoid. I've done thousands of miles in it since the conversion and this is the first time something has gone wrong. I did notice a little drip of oil coming from the cam belt cover at the bottom where the diesel pump is. 👀
Interesting - what is the brand/model of the current monitor you used ?
You can use any Multimeter to check current draw... a scope is nice because you can see the waveform.
This is a Snap-on Vantage Pro... with a current clamp attached.
Should you hear the fuel pump priming for a second before the key is in the run position? Similar sound to when you were turning it on and off with the relay ?
Yes.
If the engine runs, I wouldn't worry about it.
@@EXOVCDS I’ve been having a stalling issue after it’s driven a little, put a new coil and it seemed to solve it but i don’t hear the pump priming when the key is in and almost in the start position.
@Jkidd123
Put your hand on the fuel pump relay (bottom right corner of relays).
If the relay clicks when you turn the key to ignition on, then the pump is getting power.
@@EXOVCDS okay, i did just recently replace the relay due to it wasn’t turning over
@Jkidd123
A bad relay can cause a no start or stalling... but should not prevent the engine from cranking / turning over.
If the engine isn't cranking / turning over when the key is in the crank / start position... then it's usually a faulty ignition switch.
Thomas, I've been chasing a battery drain which has brought me to what I believe is the fuel pump. I was pulling a half amp with the car off and asleep and when I pull a red wire on the back of my fuse panel it drops back to .02 amps. I can turn the starter over with this wire out but will not start. So I believe it is power to the fuel pump?
When I connect the battery I hear a hard click inside the pump as well. Any thoughts? Car starts and drives fine other than the drain... and the alternator not working... :D
Red wire at the back of the fuse box supplies power to a number of components. The fuel pump is powered by the fuel pump relay. How can you hear the pump... it is inside the tank. Fuse 18 I think is for the pump. Remove the fuse to check if the drain goes away.
@@EXOVCDS Oddly enough pulling the 20amp Fuel pump CB does not change anything... Looking at the engine manual it says its injection pump actually (my mistake). But I can hear and feel a click with my hand on it when I connect battery power, and bam!, a .47 amp draw.
Pulled all CBs and Relays first before turning over my fuse panel to pull any thick red wires that might pull that much and found what I think is the problem.
I'm running a hybrid between as US Eruovan and the European 2.5 TDI ACV engine so I'm having a real fun time studying two diagrams to chase it down. The main red wire off the positive side of the battery spilts a few ways on the back of my fuse panel also.
So there is no fuel pump in the tank then, as the injection pump does the sucking, yes? If you know which relay clicks, then you just have to check the control circuit for that relay. Could also be that there is more than one draw... adding up to x-amount of amps that you measured. Keep digging, I'm sure you'll find the cause(s).
My T4 has been stuttering for the last 6k miles or so. Nothing too bad, I'd say once per hour of driving, a quick stutter that only lasts 2 sec. I replaced the fuel filter and added injector cleaner to the fuel. Than it was gone for a while, now it's coming back. Recently I also noticed it doesn't always start right away. But then if I wait a few seconds, turn contact on/off, it starts up no problem. Is this a sign of the fuel pump going bad? Or maybe the relay? Idk... Any thoughts anyone?
I don't think quick sputters are due to a fuel pump issue. Checking fuel pressure, flow / delivery rate for 30 seconds and fuel pump current draw... can tell you the health of the pump.
It could be an ignition issue or a map sensor issue... but I could be wrong. Which engine?
@@EXOVCDS thanks for the reply! I have a 2.5 TDI, 88hp. Don’t know engine code/type exactly. Checking fuel pressure/current draw sounds like a good place to start. Maybe cleaning mass airflow sensor aswel?
@markhensens5989 this is why correct information is important, to not waste your & my time (typing stuff that doesn't apply / help). My initial reply was based on gasoline engines. You can ignore that information.
Hi Tomas. Still can not get van to start in Park only in neutral out of the blue . I have checked the multifunction connector on trans. with connecting the pins( no change ) and pulled the PNP relay and cover it is clean and you see and hear the solinoid working. I did notice on the dashboard there is NO position highlighted. What else is there ?
Mount a push button on the dash... wire the button to battery power and the starter. Push the button when you want to start the engine.
@@EXOVCDS Well , lol , that would work no doubt , but I probably should fix it somewhat properly . Would like to figure out why the dash shifter position does not appear on the dashboard. Thank you.
@martinmiller1943 one of my first replies to you... asked if the dash shows if P is indicated. You said yes.
Fault codes in TCM? ECM?
@@EXOVCDS It was working just fine. Now the dash does not show position indicated. Makes me think perhaps a ground problem. Where would I look for this ?
@@EXOVCDS Well now it appears it is that switch behind the key cylinder or a wire. I have replaced that at least 3 times in 22 plus years of owning . But before the symptoms were slow to evolve and you could manipulate the key pressure and get it to start. What my neighbor discovered he grabbed the wires and pushed them toward that switch and it allowed the dash to show park and then starts. But it will only start while someone is manipulating the wires toward the switch otherwise I could push and pull the key and nothing . Maybe the switch screw is loose, I have to find a jewelers screwdriver I think thats what I used before or purchase a new switch.
Wish I could bring you my EV!!!
+obscura films. There are a lot of good shops out there. Look for one in your area by entering your info in the search box of the following link: iatn.net/repair If that does not hep, talk to VW owners you see in a parking lot / on the street. I think most people that want to bring their car to me, just want to see their car on youtube! LOL
Sorry, had to write this again.. I accidently deleted my first reply to you.
Hi, when i have half tank of diesel My car dosnt start, but when i put tank full car start. Do i have to chance pump or fix it somehow? Tnx
I don't think that your Van has a fuel pump in the tank... but the fuel hose could be broken or the clamp is not tight, which then lets air into the fuel line when the level gets low. The only way to know is to remove the sending unit cover and have a look what is going on.
@@EXOVCDS yes i have
2.5L TDI or 2.4L Diesel?
We don't have the 2.5L TDI in Canada... the wiring diagram for the 2.5L TDI does not show a fuel pump in the fuel tank.
Both 2.4L Diesel & 2.5L TDI use the "injection pump" to pull fuel from the tank.
@@EXOVCDS hei, sorry main english IS no good i have 2,5tdi une Yesterday i have chek und fund it
@@EXOVCDS i tink IS injection but the look saime
👍
Thank you for watching!
Hei, i have 2.5tdi 2003
Howdy Thomas. The fuel pump/tank rubber seal seems to have swollen alot as now it does not allow the top of the fuel pump to fit. Do you have any suggestions on what I could do with out buying something else ? Thank you kindly.
The one for the collar ring that is spun on? Let it dry out for a day or so... that might help? Grab one off of a wrecked vehicle? Not very expensive.
www.ecstuning.com/b-hamburg-tech-parts/fuel-pump-tank-seal/95520113301~ham/
@@EXOVCDS .Hello. I replaced the rubber seal and was not expensive . Now it gets more weird . After recently draining the tank and putting in the new pump and adding 2 gallons of fuel today in it would not start. The relay is good , fuse good. Then my neighbor said try tapping the (NEW) pump with a long screw driver. It started humming ! I closed the lid and turned the key and it started BUT making the same loud as it did in the video I posted before , the same sound is occuring as the old pump, uuuugggghhhh. I noticed with the old pump the grommets degraded in the housing that holds the pump in place and thought maybe that was why the sound. I noticed the new pump housing did not appear super tight but of course has the grommets. What is this , it is still loud, this is driving me crazy.
On top of this all of a sudden it wont start in park, it worked fine everyday for 22 years and just minutes before !!! My neighbor was in there maybe he bumped something ??? It will turn over in neutral.
Weird.
@@EXOVCDS Any idea what that sound could be ??? Ans then I watched another one of your videos where something in the shifter area ( rub plate ) wears down and keeps van from cranking , but I just don't see this happening out of thin air , what do you think ? Thank you.
Howdy .My 95 EVC has been sitting but it started and drove about 2 months ago. When I went to start it today engine cranked but did not fire up. I realized I did not hear the fuel pump do its thing like usual , fuse is good.. I pulled the carpet and got to the tank and removed the hoses and power clip looked down in the tank knocked a few things . Put power clip back in turned key half way and no fuel pump sound but gas flowed out of hose furthest from the power clip . I don't understand what is happening , any ideas , thank you ?
If you have power at the red / yellow wire, but no pump sound, then the pump is bad.
"Fuel flowing out" doesn't mean anything to me. You need to check for quantity of fuel flow (1/2L in 30 seconds) and pressure of at least 30psi. If the pump is old, it's probably a pump issue. If flow & pressure are ok... then it's something else (as long as the fuel is good).
I added a few gallons of fuel a couple months ago but the other fuel had been sitting in the tank for a long long time. But it also started and drove recently no problem..@@EXOVCDS
Yes, you already mentioned that.
How much fuel pressure does the pump produce?
How much fuel flow in 30 seconds into a container from the outlet hose at the pump cover... when you crank the engine for 30 seconds?
I do not have anything to check pressure but I will try your other idea. I just don't hear the fuel pump like I normally do as in a click and a buzz when you turn key half way.@@EXOVCDS
As I said in my first reply. If you have power at the power wire of the connector, but the pump doesn't buzz... the pump is bad.
Where are the check valves at ?
tomeejr In the pump.
The fuel pressure regulator is the check valve for the return line.
My fuel pressure of 41psi bleeds off almost immediately when engine is turned off. Any troubleshooting hints ? Thanks.
Pinch the return hose or the feed hose at the rail (the rubber hose)... pinch one at a time. If the pressure continues to drop, pinch the other one. The one that stops the pressure drop is the one that has the bad valve. If there is not enough rubber hose to pinch, add a temporary extension to that hose. If pressure drops on both hoses, pinch both at the same time. If pressure continues to drop... you might have a leaky fuel injector.
it was at 4:15
+Sasuke Uchiha There are links for where to buy that tool in the description of this video: ua-cam.com/video/Qh3k7IKOmVM/v-deo.html
Excellent video.
Thank you for watching.