I have watched so many videos on testing coils, if only I found your video first. No crap, no music, no sponsors just you explaining how to test coils. Thank you
As stated in another comment, you could replace just the boot and spring. Another common problem is the boots cracking and the spring shorting to the block. Which is why they are supposed to be replaced when you change your plugs. You can buy eight boots/springs for the price of 1 coil. Thanks for the vid showing this.
No kidding. No nonsense help. Thanks from Alberta. Mine read .5 ohms on the primary side. Make sure your meter is set to x1000 for checking the secondary side.
This is exactly how I test them, forwards and backwards, and keep track of the numbers. I'm dealing with a misfire in the 8th cylinder, E150 van, I just dropped it off at a local mechanic to give me a price to fix it, but if it's too much, I'm just gonna do it myself, vans are just a pain in the ass to work on and I'd much rather pay someone instead of me out here busting my knuckles in the cold, in waiting for the call with that number, that's why I'm watching videos on this stuff right now, if this dude says "$1,000" to change the plugs and coils in my van, fuck that I'll do it myself. Good video brother, not too many people know you can check the resistance on coils using the method you just showed👍👍
I was having this problem this morning...i thought I was going to be all day...until I saw your straight forward and two the point video... Thanks SOOO Much. Mike D. In Houston TX
Thank you, you are the only person that was very direct and gave information without me having to wonder what I was looking for. I have a Jeep instead of a ford, but I get it. Thank You so much. God Bless.
Dear William, What this video needed was you thanking your sponsor at the start for almost as long as the actual video, loud annoying music over the top making your voice almost impossible to hear, then you advertising your PayPal/Patreon at the end for just as long as you thanking your sponsor at the start, therefore actual program content is no more than third of actual video length!! (Sarcasm). Cheers mate, this was like the Old UA-cam, where you could click and solve a problem. Thank you and best wishes from an Englishman in a French forest. 🏆
Sir you are a blessing. Your video is and was the exact information that I needed. Nice to know that there is someone who actually made a pretty much self explanatory video. You extremely helped a simple old country boy from Tennessee. Yall be good. God bless you and your family.
THANK YOU for this video, I have been following advice of several people and testing many different things. Started suspecting the worst as she may have run low on oil. Tonight at the advice of a mechanic friend I checked the coil's like I saw in another video and they all came back good, damn another thing it isn't. Until I read the top comment saying that was the wrong way to do it. I came to your video and did it your way and just found one that's bad!!!! Thank You! Now I can do a super charger instead of a rebuild cause I know she's got good compression.
Thanks William , I appreciate your help. I feel better about this part of my search to figure out whats going on with my 4.6 and what Ryan Roy says below as well.
Thank you for sharing your findings. Always appreciate the time ppl take to do that especially with the detail. Really does help if you're troubleshooting. Take care sir.
You can pull that boot off and pull the Spring and there is a little metal clip the spring hooks to. if you clean that Connection then put the Spring back on you probly get back to 5.1oms the coil its self is good it's just get a bad connection at the Spring
Did this exact thing awhile back and ohms showed good. Reinstalled with no trouble. Fyi come to find out auto zone sells replacement boots and coils. Just saying
There is actually 2 pieces. The coil and sparkplug boot. The two are connected together by a spring clip. Separate the two and you may find that the connection is separated by corrosion, rust , most of the time it will be pitted by sparks jumping that connection and then finally not being able to jump across. Easy to separate and clean with an Emery board or fine sandpaper. When a shop test a coil pack it always in one piece and the bad one will fail, but and if they (they won't) separate the two , most of the time the coil pack will pass. These coil packs are pretty solid , it the connection that's not, it moves through vibration and temperature changes. All it takes is one spark jump to start the process of failing that will just get worst . Nice video on how to check. But try this and it could be a permanent solution for the do it yourselfers...
Thank you for posting this reply. You are absolutely correct. I have heard of so many folks that throw money away replacing a coil pack when all they needed to do was some maintenance cleaning to the business end of the assembly like you have illustrated here. The test across the leads inside the wire connector tests the coil's primary windings only, so it tested good. The intermittent loss of connection showed up with the test of the full assembly at the secondary (boosted ) high voltage end going to the spark plug, almost always corrected with a little cleaning of the corrosion to the spring and high voltage terminal at the outlet end of the coil pack.
Trail gear is the name of coils i put on my truck. Got them on Amazon for $37.99 been on my truck for on year and haven't ho any problems with them .. the first one was Accel.. lasted about three months. At $230.00 ..the cheep one i recommend..
I just went ahead and changed all mine to have all new ones. Now i don't need to worry about them failing. I'm about to change all my injectors as well.
Thank you for getting straight to it. I’ve watched a dozen videos this morning where they’d tell the viewer the whole history of spark ignition, how a COP worked, and assorted yammering. I just wanted to know what values on the multi meter meant a coil was good or bad. Thanks again.
The first ones I got frome advance they gave me the ones for a 4.6 not 5.4 I wind up getting them of line for 37.99 trail gear was the name and they are still on my truck..
Most vids do not test resistance on the spark plug end. Good tip. I used this technique at LKQ to test some coils from a wreck with 159k miles. I got similar readings so I bought a couple of them at $18 each. They were Motorcraft OEM. Did the swap and the cylinder is back to normal. On a side note, I tested the bad coil and it returned stable reading at the coil end of 5.85 Ohm. This was higher than any of the others. Reading did not jump around like the bad coil in the vid. I suspect mine has a thermal related fault that causes it to loose spark at operating temperature. It fires fine when cold but starts to miss after a few miles.
Thanks for the video I’m hoping to apply your method today. I’m getting ready to replace my coils for the 5th time in 13 months. It won’t stop running like shit when it wants to. One day it’s fine the next it’s bucking and missing so bad you think the motor is gonna come loose from the motor mounts and 5 seconds later it’s running like a new truck. Also I’ll add sometimes it will throw a code and check engine light will come on other times it won’t. I’ve used $600 motorcraft coils $300 AutoZone coils $250 roc auto coils 3 different cheap brands from Amazon only to find the motorcraft VS Amazon $40 per set coils all run the same way and that’s pretty sad. Also will add plugs have been changed 3 times now all plugs have been motorcraft brand. And each time it’s a cylinder misfire code it’s usually the same cylinders doing so. I can pull the bad code - misfire coil and move to another cylinder and sometimes the misfire moves with the coil and other times it doesn’t follow the coil. Not sure how a coil can misfire in cylinder 5 but be fine in cylinder 6 etc. I’ve even went as far as replacement of all coil pigtail clips thinking it was a wiring problem no such luck. ANYONE have a clue what’s wrong here I’d greatly appreciate any advice. Oh sorry forgot to add my current set is the yellow set you appear to be using right now.
Sounds like you may have other problems... just so you know my truck had a bad iddler gear that caused the same problem as the coil.. it was making a little noise but I thought it was a bad coil again.. changed the gear and it cleared up.. hope you find the problem I wouldn't buy no more of them coils..also make sure your motor is 3 valve or 2 valve it will say it on top of motor..the coils are bought compliance with the valve..
The bottom to top test shows you if it's shorting to ground on the secondary coil wire. ▪︎ Primary coil: the top connector is supposed to be 1.0Ω or less ▪︎ Secondary coil: Top to bottom is supposed to read between: 5.5-8KΩ (2pin, 2 wire types) 12-15KΩ (waste type)
Marwell Grimes I learned Ford coils act up from heat and never throw an engine light. If they are just weak. Unless they are totally shorted. A cold coil will always test good. I had the dealer spend a week trying to figure out what was wrong with my 05 T-Bird and they changed basically put a fuel pump for free because in their guess work they damaged the old one and couldn't reinstall it. Finally they told me I needed a computer. They charged me $175 which I later got back. Just 4 shitz and giggles I decided to buy an eight pack of coils 32 bucks on eBay. Instant relief from hot starting issue. . Naturally the cheap coils started going bad down the road but at least I knew what the problem was for sure.... PS don't ever buy NGK coils and expect them to last long. The $32 coils lasted longer than the NGK coils.
Unfortunately, coils with perfect resistance measurements can be bad too. The best way to check is with a spark gap tester. The coil is only good if it can produce a spark that jumps a 30 KV gap in the tester. Three of my coils with perfect resistance measures were not able to produce a spark that jumped 10 KV while the other three jumped 30 KV. Resistance measurements were identical on all of them. I measured primary coil, secondary coil and resistance from primary coil to ground. Do not put the coils back in unless you test the with spark gap tester.
@@williamcarter4875 You can simply remove the coils when the engine is warmed up and test them. If a coil can produce a spark that jumps a 30 KV gap while hot it is good. Even if one of the coils is bad I'd replace all. I got the 6 pack for about $35 from Ebay. I have driven 3K miles on it so far with no issues. Before that the car wasn't even starting.
mine is same as you f150 5.4ltr- my primary readings vary on my new coils they are 1.0ish and secondary range between 5.60 and 5.72 are these numbers too high? but my old ones are consistently, primary 1.0ish and secondary's are 5.44 they are all the same
Good luck getting those Accel coil packs back off if one goes bad. They Definitely don't just pop off easy like the OEM motorcrafts do. They pull apart before they come off the plug.
I have toyota 4 pin coils. They show different. Three pins on top show ohm values. But pin to boot shows 0 values on new coil. Bad coil will show values on 3 pins to boot.
Appear to ahm. bad from my experience. the one that is being checked should be the same as new one.if not I would say it's bad and install the new one..
Does anyone think I mighty as well replace all coils and plugs even if I can successfully diagnose one? Since im down there I hear its a pain to get to. misfire cyl 7
When he did the spark side, he should've tested without the old spring contact. It was probably bad, causing the low reading. The coil could still b good.
I'm having a bit of trouble. I can only get a reading on the top terminals, If I use 200 0hms. (3.3)...Then if I switch to 2000 K, then I can get a reading from the terminal to spring at (5.4). Been screwing forever with it! It's minus 22 and just had a storm blow thru. Any help would be nice. 🇨🇦
Thanks for the video, I got a cheap ohmmeter at harbor freight for $6 and tested all my old coils, 7 of the 8 read 5.61 and 5.51, only one read 5.45 which I think is still fine, I'll test the newer ones on the truck and see if they are within the same range. Truck has been misfiring under load at 45mph-60mph and I already changed the plugs and coils with no success.
Set on mill amps.. that setting should pick up resistance on you... try it by holding the two leads one in left hand and one in right hand.... then its the right setting..
That does sounds like the coils...my truck under a load was acting like trans was going out ..kind of like vibrating when under a load...about 45mph and up
@@williamcarter4875 I am having the same problem with my Expedition. It is more than likely torque converter shudder. How many miles you have? Likely just needs new fluid. You could also try Lubeguard instant shudder fix which comes in a 2oz tube. It's a friction modifier. That actually helped improve mine quite a bit so I am sure it's just contaminated fluid so I plan to do a filter and fluid change next weekend and pretty sure that will put it to rest. No codes, just feels like you are driving over a series of very small bumps in the road at right about 45 to 50mph. Any time besides that no symptoms at all. If that does not work then apparently there is a change to the valve in the vale body that send pressure to the torque converter.
@@williamcarter4875 So my problem is fixed. The shutter went away when I did a transmission pan drop and replaced the filter and atf (mecronSP). A couple months later my transmission started to misshift really harsh to the point where it wouldn't move at times. I took it to two transmission shops expecting the worst and both said it needed a new transmission. The shops said it was giving off code U0101 which means the TCM wasn't communicating with the PCM. I typed the code on Google and thanks to UA-camr FordTechMakuloco he diagnosed the issue being aftermarket coils causing interference with PCM and TCM, replaced them with OEM Motorcraft coils ($350) and the truck never gave me issues again, no shuttering no misshifting and engine idles so much smoother now. Hope it helps anyone out there.
Aight bro mine gave on the multimeter one 10.6 four 6.5 and the other 3, 5.6 whats the right range...is a v8 for f150 2001, i do not have power going up hills..
Never had one 10.6.. I would change it..make sure all gets plugged back in all the way .. if it's not a tight fit it will misfire...I used zip ties to hold mine tight
They worked ok i got them at advance auto.. you can get them a little cheaper at Amazon.. make sure you get the ones to fit your 5,4 some are 3 valve and some are 2 valve
The ones they sold me at advance was for a two valve . And recently changed the again ....i got a cheaper set 38 dollars off of Amazon. They seem to be doing good...
@@williamcarter4875ya I got a 2 valve. I seen those on amazon and debating on getting them. The price seem to good. How long have u had them on your truck so far. Thanks
Hi William, I'm having trouble with my 98 F150, scanners aren't showing anything but it's running rough like it has before when a coild has gone bad. Local ford dealership won't even scan it, they say it's too old, got coils,plugs, scanner+ other stuff coming, might need your help. Been subscribed since back when I had another miss in the engine.
Dont cair to help at all just tex and I'll get with you soon as I see it... just so you know I had another miss in mine and it was a iddler gear on the belt freezing up pulling the motor down I changed it and haven't had any trouble..
@@williamcarter4875 Going to get started real soon, been busy with work. That's crazy that you mention Idler arm, just got a new one about 2-3 days ago from RockAuto. I'm not real sharp on electronic stuff, what be a good tester for checking ignition coils? Have a good one and thanks. Mike
I have watched so many videos on testing coils, if only I found your video first. No crap, no music, no sponsors just you explaining how to test coils. Thank you
Thanks
Same here! I have been watching videos on and off the past two days! Wish I would found this on the first try! Thanks, Will!
As stated in another comment, you could replace just the boot and spring. Another common problem is the boots cracking and the spring shorting to the block. Which is why they are supposed to be replaced when you change your plugs. You can buy eight boots/springs for the price of 1 coil.
Thanks for the vid showing this.
Great video. Straight to the point/ No fluff and showed the spark side testing. Hats off to you.
Thanks glad to help..
I really liked that. usually we see people testing just at the plug terminal, not inside the coil as you did. great job!
Thank glad to help
Finally someone knows how to get the point and not give a huge line of bologna
Lol the longer the video the more money they get. UA-cam watches how long people watch videos. That's why those 10 hour videos exist
What do you set it multimeter to? Maybe I missed it
For the primary coil, should just be on ohms. For the secondary coil (plug side) should be on kilo-ohms.
@@dontreplyback1 a
Those are the people that are getting paid for views and getting you to watch all the ads.
No kidding. No nonsense help. Thanks from Alberta.
Mine read .5 ohms on the primary side. Make sure your meter is set to x1000 for checking the secondary side.
This is exactly how I test them, forwards and backwards, and keep track of the numbers. I'm dealing with a misfire in the 8th cylinder, E150 van, I just dropped it off at a local mechanic to give me a price to fix it, but if it's too much, I'm just gonna do it myself, vans are just a pain in the ass to work on and I'd much rather pay someone instead of me out here busting my knuckles in the cold, in waiting for the call with that number, that's why I'm watching videos on this stuff right now, if this dude says "$1,000" to change the plugs and coils in my van, fuck that I'll do it myself.
Good video brother, not too many people know you can check the resistance on coils using the method you just showed👍👍
I was having this problem this morning...i thought I was going to be all day...until I saw your straight forward and two the point video...
Thanks SOOO Much.
Mike D. In Houston TX
This helped out a lot! Didn't even think about testing the continuity to the spark plug side of the coil. Thanks for taking the time to put this up.
No problem glad to help you may wont to read coments also..
Any time glad ito. help
Always check the primary and secondary windings
@@rickysmallwood7407 how do you do that??
Never ohmed the spark side either…
Thank you, you are the only person that was very direct and gave information without me having to wonder what I was looking for. I have a Jeep instead of a ford, but I get it. Thank You so much. God Bless.
Dear William, What this video needed was you thanking your sponsor at the start for almost as long as the actual video, loud annoying music over the top making your voice almost impossible to hear, then you advertising your PayPal/Patreon at the end for just as long as you thanking your sponsor at the start, therefore actual program content is no more than third of actual video length!! (Sarcasm). Cheers mate, this was like the Old UA-cam, where you could click and solve a problem. Thank you and best wishes from an Englishman in a French forest. 🏆
It's 2021. A "smash the Like button" would have been nice, lol. And where is the ball trimmer info-mercial? Get with the times, DUDE!
Cut and dried! No bull! I love it. Thank you!
Sir you are a blessing. Your video is and was the exact information that I needed. Nice to know that there is someone who actually made a pretty much self explanatory video. You extremely helped a simple old country boy from Tennessee. Yall be good. God bless you and your family.
Yes, very excellent right to the point, no wind , no shaken camera, no bla bla bla about the Red Sox 👍
THANK YOU for this video, I have been following advice of several people and testing many different things. Started suspecting the worst as she may have run low on oil. Tonight at the advice of a mechanic friend I checked the coil's like I saw in another video and they all came back good, damn another thing it isn't. Until I read the top comment saying that was the wrong way to do it. I came to your video and did it your way and just found one that's bad!!!! Thank You! Now I can do a super charger instead of a rebuild cause I know she's got good compression.
Glad to be a help
Thanks William , I appreciate your help. I feel better about this part of my search to figure out whats going on with my 4.6 and what Ryan Roy says below as well.
Thank you for sharing your findings. Always appreciate the time ppl take to do that especially with the detail. Really does help if you're troubleshooting. Take care sir.
This really helped! Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Your welcome glad to help
Thanks man all the way from Saudi Arabia. This is a very accurate simple way to pin point the problem.
You can pull that boot off and pull the Spring and there is a little metal clip the spring hooks to. if you clean that Connection then put the Spring back on you probly get back to 5.1oms the coil its self is good it's just get a bad connection at the Spring
agreed
Yup.
Did this exact thing awhile back and ohms showed good. Reinstalled with no trouble. Fyi come to find out auto zone sells replacement boots and coils. Just saying
Correction : not coil (as in ignition coil) meant to say springs or whatever it is...coil...contactor?
Awesome video. Just help me alot here. I tested them on the one side . Never thought of looking/test both ends . Makes total sense.
👍👍
Thanks for the information William . It was very helpful .
I like the video keep up the good work I am an electrician and you can check the coils that way Cattails that the coil is burnt up
5 years later and still relevant to today. Thanks 2 bad coils here ohmed good on the primary side and nothing on the spark side.
There is actually 2 pieces. The coil and sparkplug boot. The two are connected together by a spring clip. Separate the two and you may find that the connection is separated by corrosion, rust , most of the time it will be pitted by sparks jumping that connection and then finally not being able to jump across. Easy to separate and clean with an Emery board or fine sandpaper. When a shop test a coil pack it always in one piece and the bad one will fail, but and if they (they won't) separate the two , most of the time the coil pack will pass. These coil packs are pretty solid , it the connection that's not, it moves through vibration and temperature changes. All it takes is one spark jump to start the process of failing that will just get worst . Nice video on how to check. But try this and it could be a permanent solution for the do it yourselfers...
Thanks .. sound like a good ideal..
Thank you for posting this reply. You are absolutely correct. I have heard of so many folks that throw money away replacing a coil pack when all they needed to do was some maintenance cleaning to the business end of the assembly like you have illustrated here. The test across the leads inside the wire connector tests the coil's primary windings only, so it tested good. The intermittent loss of connection showed up with the test of the full assembly at the secondary (boosted ) high voltage end going to the spark plug, almost always corrected with a little cleaning of the corrosion to the spring and high voltage terminal at the outlet end of the coil pack.
Thanks for the help! Can't afford to go to a mechanic this month.
Trail gear is the name of coils i put on my truck. Got them on Amazon for $37.99 been on my truck for on year and haven't ho any problems with them .. the first one was Accel.. lasted about three months. At $230.00 ..the cheep one i recommend..
Great video William. I had a few cylinders misfiring. This solved it
Thanks glad it helped.
Following your method as we speak.
Thank you sir
I just went ahead and changed all mine to have all new ones. Now i don't need to worry about them failing. I'm about to change all my injectors as well.
Thank you for getting straight to it. I’ve watched a dozen videos this morning where they’d tell the viewer the whole history of spark ignition, how a COP worked, and assorted yammering. I just wanted to know what values on the multi meter meant a coil was good or bad. Thanks again.
Ditto
awesome my truck check engine just start to blinking i never knew to check the spark plug side til this video thanks
Simple str8 to the point no bs....
Good video man
Thans read coments
Nice one buddy. I've got a coil playing up, I'll try this as well.😊
Very informative. Thanks for the video.
Great video! It definitely helped me out. Thank you for keeping it simple.
Thanks
Your welcome
Excellent video. Truly appreciate your taking the time. Helped me allot.
Thanks glad to help..
Thanks glad to help...
The first ones I got frome advance they gave me the ones for a 4.6 not 5.4 I wind up getting them of line for 37.99 trail gear was the name and they are still on my truck..
Huge help. Thank you!
Thanks man, straight to the point
Most vids do not test resistance on the spark plug end. Good tip. I used this technique at LKQ to test some coils from a wreck with 159k miles. I got similar readings so I bought a couple of them at $18 each. They were Motorcraft OEM. Did the swap and the cylinder is back to normal.
On a side note, I tested the bad coil and it returned stable reading at the coil end of 5.85 Ohm. This was higher than any of the others. Reading did not jump around like the bad coil in the vid. I suspect mine has a thermal related fault that causes it to loose spark at operating temperature. It fires fine when cold but starts to miss after a few miles.
The old 2 valve 5.4! I still have mine at 290000 miles
Thanks brother . Right to the point.
Thank you very much for showing that to us!
Awesome video sir, thank you!!
Good info, thanks for sharing!
thank ya man it`s simple and perfect
STRAIGHT, DIRECT INFORMATION!
INSTANT SUB!
TYSVM!!
Thanks for the video I’m hoping to apply your method today.
I’m getting ready to replace my coils for the 5th time in 13 months.
It won’t stop running like shit when it wants to.
One day it’s fine the next it’s bucking and missing so bad you think the motor is gonna come loose from the motor mounts and 5 seconds later it’s running like a new truck.
Also I’ll add sometimes it will throw a code and check engine light will come on other times it won’t.
I’ve used $600 motorcraft coils
$300 AutoZone coils
$250 roc auto coils
3 different cheap brands from Amazon only to find the motorcraft VS Amazon $40 per set coils all run the same way and that’s pretty sad.
Also will add plugs have been changed 3 times now all plugs have been motorcraft brand.
And each time it’s a cylinder misfire code it’s usually the same cylinders doing so.
I can pull the bad code - misfire coil and move to another cylinder and sometimes the misfire moves with the coil and other times it doesn’t follow the coil.
Not sure how a coil can misfire in cylinder 5 but be fine in cylinder 6 etc.
I’ve even went as far as replacement of all coil pigtail clips thinking it was a wiring problem no such luck.
ANYONE have a clue what’s wrong here I’d greatly appreciate any advice.
Oh sorry forgot to add my current set is the yellow set you appear to be using right now.
Sounds like you may have other problems... just so you know my truck had a bad iddler gear that caused the same problem as the coil.. it was making a little noise but I thought it was a bad coil again.. changed the gear and it cleared up.. hope you find the problem I wouldn't buy no more of them coils..also make sure your motor is 3 valve or 2 valve it will say it on top of motor..the coils are bought compliance with the valve..
Advance sold me for a 2valve and mine was a 3valve
Thankyou great video very educational
Thanks glad to help
Every mechanic should have your accent!!
The bottom to top test shows you if it's shorting to ground on the secondary coil wire.
▪︎ Primary coil: the top connector is supposed to be 1.0Ω or less
▪︎ Secondary coil: Top to bottom is supposed to read between: 5.5-8KΩ (2pin, 2 wire types)
12-15KΩ (waste type)
Marwell Grimes I learned Ford coils act up from heat and never throw an engine light. If they are just weak. Unless they are totally shorted. A cold coil will always test good. I had the dealer spend a week trying to figure out what was wrong with my 05 T-Bird and they changed basically put a fuel pump for free because in their guess work they damaged the old one and couldn't reinstall it. Finally they told me I needed a computer. They charged me $175 which I later got back. Just 4 shitz and giggles I decided to buy an eight pack of coils 32 bucks on eBay. Instant relief from hot starting issue. . Naturally the cheap coils started going bad down the road but at least I knew what the problem was for sure.... PS don't ever buy NGK coils and expect them to last long. The $32 coils lasted longer than the NGK coils.
You hot straight to the point, Thanks A lot.
you seem from Kevin skinner's Hometown 🌱😊
Very helpful. Thank you.
Great video, Thanks
Great video thnks bud👍
Big help. Thanks.
Great info, thanks
Glad to help..
that s a big help. thanks
Thanks
Great bare bones video, thx
Unfortunately, coils with perfect resistance measurements can be bad too. The best way to check is with a spark gap tester. The coil is only good if it can produce a spark that jumps a 30 KV gap in the tester. Three of my coils with perfect resistance measures were not able to produce a spark that jumped 10 KV while the other three jumped 30 KV. Resistance measurements were identical on all of them. I measured primary coil, secondary coil and resistance from primary coil to ground. Do not put the coils back in unless you test the with spark gap tester.
How does it check when hot
@@williamcarter4875 You can simply remove the coils when the engine is warmed up and test them. If a coil can produce a spark that jumps a 30 KV gap while hot it is good. Even if one of the coils is bad I'd replace all. I got the 6 pack for about $35 from Ebay. I have driven 3K miles on it so far with no issues. Before that the car wasn't even starting.
Great video
Yes, it did help
Thanks William!
You welcome..
Thanks, man.
Thanks friend
mine is same as you f150 5.4ltr- my primary readings vary on my new coils they are 1.0ish and secondary range between 5.60 and 5.72 are these numbers too high? but my old ones are consistently, primary 1.0ish and secondary's are 5.44 they are all the same
The set of $67 ones I got for replacement for 2001 5.4L Excursion, all 8 read as follows:
Primary: 0.4 ohms
Secondary: 5,900 to 5,990 ohms.
But coils are weird. I know coils might show good. Until they get hot . Good point.👍
Real nice...I like the video. "To the point"...ahm ownna giver a try.
Thanks..Be sure to read coments
Thanks .. be sure to read coments
Thank you Sir.
Your welcome
Thank you sir
Thanks!!
Coals?
Thanks
that did fix the misfire motor runs good
What was the meter settings you were using.
And as a follow up did the misfire stay gone now that some time has passed
Thanks.
When setting the meter do you turn the knob to 2000k 200k 20K mm or 200 that would be the first thing to say in the video
His meter has auto range. If in doubt start at high range and click down one range at a time.
2000k unside down horse shoe
Turn to milli amps. Read comments
Good luck getting those Accel coil packs back off if one goes bad. They Definitely don't just pop off easy like the OEM motorcrafts do. They pull apart before they come off the plug.
Read my coments they never last no time done been replaced
Bouncing readings on coil = BAD thank you!!!
I have toyota 4 pin coils. They show different. Three pins on top show ohm values. But pin to boot shows 0 values on new coil. Bad coil will show values on 3 pins to boot.
Appear to ahm. bad from my experience. the one that is being checked should be the same as new one.if not I would say it's bad and install the new one..
Thanks cooter!!!
Does anyone think I mighty as well replace all coils and plugs even if I can successfully diagnose one? Since im down there I hear its a pain to get to. misfire cyl 7
The $5 DVM from Harbor Freight does the job.
When he did the spark side, he should've tested without the old spring contact. It was probably bad, causing the low reading. The coil could still b good.
Gotta take a the boot off to get a reliable reading of the coil
The test leads are horrible...Lol... I subscribe and am saving this into my ASE A8 Folder 📂 😎
I cant seem to get the coil to snap on back on the spark plug. I put it in but they wont snap snuggly on the plug like the 2 new ones do. Why?
Your old ones must be stretched..
I'm having a bit of trouble. I can only get a reading on the top terminals, If I use 200 0hms. (3.3)...Then if I switch to 2000 K, then I can get a reading from the terminal to spring at (5.4).
Been screwing forever with it! It's minus 22 and just had a storm blow thru.
Any help would be nice. 🇨🇦
Is that reading bouncing eradicate or holding steady
Coil packs are a Transformer Buddy... Therefore, there are 2 coil windings... a primary coil winding and a secondary coil winding...
Thanks for the video, I got a cheap ohmmeter at harbor freight for $6 and tested all my old coils, 7 of the 8 read 5.61 and 5.51, only one read 5.45 which I think is still fine, I'll test the newer ones on the truck and see if they are within the same range. Truck has been misfiring under load at 45mph-60mph and I already changed the plugs and coils with no success.
Set on mill amps.. that setting should pick up resistance on you... try it by holding the two leads one in left hand and one in right hand.... then its the right setting..
That does sounds like the coils...my truck under a load was acting like trans was going out ..kind of like vibrating when under a load...about 45mph and up
@@williamcarter4875 I am having the same problem with my Expedition. It is more than likely torque converter shudder. How many miles you have? Likely just needs new fluid. You could also try Lubeguard instant shudder fix which comes in a 2oz tube. It's a friction modifier. That actually helped improve mine quite a bit so I am sure it's just contaminated fluid so I plan to do a filter and fluid change next weekend and pretty sure that will put it to rest. No codes, just feels like you are driving over a series of very small bumps in the road at right about 45 to 50mph. Any time besides that no symptoms at all. If that does not work then apparently there is a change to the valve in the vale body that send pressure to the torque converter.
My problem was the bad coil.. thats why i made the video..
@@williamcarter4875 So my problem is fixed. The shutter went away when I did a transmission pan drop and replaced the filter and atf (mecronSP). A couple months later my transmission started to misshift really harsh to the point where it wouldn't move at times. I took it to two transmission shops expecting the worst and both said it needed a new transmission. The shops said it was giving off code U0101 which means the TCM wasn't communicating with the PCM. I typed the code on Google and thanks to UA-camr FordTechMakuloco he diagnosed the issue being aftermarket coils causing interference with PCM and TCM, replaced them with OEM Motorcraft coils ($350) and the truck never gave me issues again, no shuttering no misshifting and engine idles so much smoother now. Hope it helps anyone out there.
Could you please tell me What’s the settings you’re using for the meter
Mill ohlms if you can touch the two leads to yourself and pick up olms it is the right setting
Aight bro mine gave on the multimeter one 10.6 four 6.5 and the other 3, 5.6 whats the right range...is a v8 for f150 2001, i do not have power going up hills..
Never had one 10.6.. I would change it..make sure all gets plugged back in all the way .. if it's not a tight fit it will misfire...I used zip ties to hold mine tight
How those coils working out for u? Did u get those from amazon?
They worked ok i got them at advance auto.. you can get them a little cheaper at Amazon.. make sure you get the ones to fit your 5,4 some are 3 valve and some are 2 valve
The ones they sold me at advance was for a two valve . And recently changed the again ....i got a cheaper set 38 dollars off of Amazon. They seem to be doing good...
@@williamcarter4875ya I got a 2 valve. I seen those on amazon and debating on getting them. The price seem to good. How long have u had them on your truck so far. Thanks
$28.99 far 8 coils on amazon
@@rotodan5712 trail gear was the name of the ones i got 37 99..
From terminals mine are Ohm at 1.3 consistently but from terminal to plug I’m not getting anything
Read the comments section
😀👍
When ohm from the spark plug end to the connector these 2 pins dies it matter which one you put the lead on?
No
Much easier- pull the coil with a good plug in it,ground the plug and it will spark if the coil is good when started.
That works but I got shocked.. lol.
@@williamcarter4875 if you can't see the spark very well,theres always the tongue test!
@@williamcarter4875 yupppp me toooo
@@Watchout1010 nope not that
@@williamcarter4875 you lay the plug on metal
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Thanks
Hi William,
I'm having trouble with my 98 F150, scanners aren't showing anything but it's running rough like it has before when a coild has gone bad.
Local ford dealership won't even scan it, they say it's too old, got coils,plugs, scanner+ other stuff coming, might need your help.
Been subscribed since back when I had another miss in the engine.
Dont cair to help at all just tex and I'll get with you soon as I see it... just so you know I had another miss in mine and it was a iddler gear on the belt freezing up pulling the motor down I changed it and haven't had any trouble..
@@williamcarter4875 Going to get started real soon, been busy with work.
That's crazy that you mention Idler arm, just got a new one about 2-3 days ago from RockAuto.
I'm not real sharp on electronic stuff, what be a good tester for checking ignition coils?
Have a good one and thanks. Mike
5.52 K ohms or M ohms on the spark side??
Yes