My daily is a 2000 with the 2v, did all plugs and coils at 150 000 and both exhaust manifolds shortly after. Got almost 300 000 now and it still runs quiet and smooth, body is rotting away but hell, I took her moose hunting 1400 kms up north last September and she never skipped a beat. I’ll drive it until the motor or transmission fail. 75,000$ for a new truck???? I’ll pass
@@waltercrigler6732 had the same issue! I used a obd reader to shoot the codes first. It kept telling me bank 7 and bank 2 misfire. I just order all 8 plugs and 8 coils. Did em all. I didn’t want to replace just the bad ones, she had 200k at that point I figured the other ones weren’t far behind. Put a new air filter on and an oil change and she’s good to go. Runs smoother than it ever ran I think lol. It’s too bad she’s rusting away!
If you want that truck to stay on the road longer than 300k with a repair that will save you alot of money here it it..... Above your oil filter is a aluminum oil cooler heat exchanger . Inside the heat exchanger is a port for oil and another port for coolant .. When this part goes the oil pressure will pump oil out the engine into the coolant system as the coolant system has less pressure. The radiator cap will plug with oil and the coolant system will blow somewhere after the oil fills it and the engine runs dry of oil ... The first sign of this failure is you will hear bubbling gurgling in the dashboard from the heater core then oil pressure will drop
I've had "0" problems with my 2 valve 5.4, in my book best engine ever built, everything goes wrong this is just minor issues, ford should have never discontinued these engines.
I had an 01 with the 5.4 and only had to do could packs at about 140,000 miles and a radiator weld due to a small crack. Other than that it was a great truck! Now I have a 2000 super duty with the same engine.
170k miles only had number one but thats from someone not putting the bolts on even its a work truck i haul 5 ton all the time the engine is a mule just the gear ratio is very low meaning shes sluggish but powerful
I must be lucky, as I've only had to replace the ALT, the MAF and (I think) 6 coils over the last 10 years. No blown plugs, no coolant or vacuum leaks, just an exhaust tic that goes away after running for a minute or so. 208,000 miles and still going strong.
Mine is a 2002 Ford E350 van with the 5.4L. I have a misfire in one cylinder and after changing all plugs and coils, it is still there . I am a retired auto mechanic and thinking now of doing head gaskets and timing components and all new spark plug thread inserts and a water pump while it is dismantled. Engine has 176,500 miles. No smoke or leaks and runs well despite that one cylinder misfire....once I find that...and I get the steering tightened up and responsive....I will take this van on a 5000 mile bucket list trip before settling down in lower eastern Michigan fo summers and Daytona Beach Florida in winter!
My 5.4L March 2022- 402K Miles. Original Motor, Tranny, Starter, Driveshaft. I can not recommend this HIGHLY enough- change all the coils at the same time & make sure they are the highest quality you get get your mitts on. NO CHEAP EBAY KNOCKOFFS ! Get Original or better. Top end Coils will keep your 5.4L running smooth and purring like a kitten. My truck is 21 years old 402K Miles and last tank of gas : 16.4 mpg. I track the mileage fanatically. I can not hear or barely feel my motor when it's running ! If you buy cheap coils you will suffer endlessly......misfires , check engine lights galore, rough running, etc.
@@darrenthoreson3924 One full year with top end coils. Running like a dream. Cheap coils were throwing codes all the time. Ran rough. I'm getting the same MPG now as when it was new.
@@ajmedeiros77 Denso coils. I can not stress enough how incredible the truck had been running since I put these in. I was using cheapo ebay coils. This truck has 406k miles & has been purring like a kitten with those coils. While you're in there put new plugs in too. Any top rated plug will do. I used Motocraft. The person that recommended the Denso is a 30 year Ford mechanic. A real fanatic too. Good luck.
2003 Lariet, had to change the plastic intake at 150k miles because the crossover tube was leaking coolant into cylinder one spark plug tube, fouling out the coil pack. When I had the intake off replacing it, I did the plugs, injectors and all new German high output coil packs. Been running like a champ ever since. 250,000 miles and going.
I've owned my 2001 f150 harley since 2004 it has over 400,000 kms and still drives like new. All I've done is normal maintenance and it's healthy as could be.
Be ready to drop 3 to 6 grand on timing chain complete replacement oil pan cleaning and gasket ,timing cover oil seal and cover seals 2 timing chains ford oem chain guides oem chain tensioners new oil sump tube screen gets clogged with metal and plastic new oring for pickup tube big bottle of blue loctite valve cover gaskets with bolt grommets new coil packs new spark plugs with bag of antiseize new fuel filter new air filter cam holding tools 1/4,3/8,1/2 torque wrenches crankshaft socket new water pump new high volume oil pump by melling suction fill syringe for oil pump orfice priming and while your at it change you trans filter and fluid some have reusable gasket 3 gallons of new yellow antifreeze and 3 gallons of distilled water .I installed a new fan clutch and cam followers and watch out for needing new cams to if worn these engines will last a very long time if you keep up on the timing chains oh and 2 new oil filters and a oil can for prelube and grey silicone I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things but it's a huge dirty job 80 percent of this job is cleaning the metal and gunk out of the oil pan oh an better get 2 or 3 gallons of oem ford trans fluid mine took 2 gallons I had a seal leak all fluid leaked out while sitting when doing timing job i also got new battery and alternator cost me u.s.d 3500.00 and 2 month of couple hours a day after work a total night mare but the shop would not have done this job the right way if you want it done right do it your self .now on to the axle bearing and seals that are shot 😭 oh and by the way my 2002 4.6 f 150 had 250,000 miles timing chains were fine it's the loss of oil pressure due to oil pickup screen getting clogged from chain tensioners eating themselves yep total self destruction and I kept my oil clean ya cant see the oil pickup screen clogged unless you jack the engine to the ceiling and take oil pan off it's a bear to do trans bell housing is in the way it took a miracle to get it out and 3 bottle Jack's 2 ramps and a floor jack ..
I have a complete 2003 super charged drive train sitting in my garage from a 2003 harley . The day this one shits the bed it will give me all the more reason to do the swap lol
My dad owns a 07 e350 with the 2v 5.4 and the only major problems it has had over the 12 years of ownership was bad catalytic Converters and a probelm with the coil packs causing the engine to randomly shutoff at any time, we found out that the coil packs (which we had recently replaced) were defective, so we reinstalled the factory coil packs and its been running fine since then.
97 f150 5.4. I spent 2 years and at least a grand chasing lean code on both banks. No vacuum leak, plugs and coils good ,changed egr, throttle body and maf sensor twice. It always ran great but mpg was terrible. Finally take to a real mechanic, he asked when I changed maf did I also change the housing. Nope. He showed me that Ford requires the maf a d housing needs to be matched and flowed together. Put it on and cleared codes and it runs like new. Bought from Napa, about 265.00.
100% I’m not great when it comes to mechanical stuff but regardless of what vehicle I always recommend changing the housing and sensor at the same time
@larrymclain no, it was lean codes on both banks. Tried all kinds of shit to fix. Even changed maf sensor to no avail. Finally changed maf sensor and housing as a matched unit. Codes gone and all is good since....
Love my F250 SD, It has 398K, It has blown a plug, and leaked coolant but still it runs strong. I do often pray for my truck to run well. Thank you, Jesus.
@@wskripka1 For about $30 at the parts store, I bought a helicoil kit and fixed it myself. Took about 1 1/2 hours and it has held now for about 10 years.
You forgot one thing on those misfires. Coolant crossover the plastic mold busting out are cracking and then the gasket blows out which causes antifreeze to get down into the Spark plug whales and causes bark plug the foul out or cold pack to go out as well lotta times you won’t see The engine coolant leak if it’s not a bad leak it could go on for six months to a year I’ve just barely leaking into those spark plug wells and just follow spark plug here and there. I know this because it happened to me. I’ve got a 2001 F150 bought it with 42,000 miles in 2005 it’s got 250,000 on it now. Knock on wood and a pretty good truck overall, it’s been good enough that I wanna keep it and I also all of the work to it. As of so far. The only issues I really had that was serious is the intake manifold. Also if you’re changing that it’s also good to go ahead and take the throttlebody and clean it really well while you have it off. My truck at the engine service light on from like 160 to 170,000 miles up until I change the intake manifold the last time and I clean the throttle body real well. Which I have not had a light come back on since. Which is wild because it still has the original exhaust and original 02 sensors as well.
@@KonaBlueSVT You're very welcome !!! My only question is this- when I take it to the repair shop here in Woodiinville, WA, will they be able to cut new threads into that spark plug hole ?? ( It's the furthest back spark plug, on the passenger side ) I could barely reach the coil with my hand. I am concerned that they may have to pull the engine to make this repair, because there is such a small amount of room. Can the thread cutting tools fit into that small space ?? Thanks for your reply !!!
Ford wanted to buy Lotus Motors. They refused to sell. Ford then contacted their employees and offered more money to come to Ford. The engine they first designed was the 4.6/5.4 two valve.
A mechanic told me that the metal pipes on the left side of the engi e were known to corode and bust a hole where coolant would spit out. Reason, too much water to coolant ratio. 4 years later, it happened to me. It requires the manifold to be taken off.
Very awesome content brother. I have sprayed carb cleaner around the back in my '98 E250 van, but couldn't really get around the front because of all the over-emissioned crap in the way... but after changing plugs, coil packs, injectors, fuel filter,... ran great for a couple days, now it's running very sluggish, weak as hell, and now I have no check engine light...
No I haven't, I am realizing now I should have bought a scanner, or paid a shop first... before throwing parts at it.. lol,,, but since I hadn't changed plugs, coils, or injectors, or oil for ten years, it couldn't hurt... HA!
However, I got a guy, that knows a guy, he's gonna hook me up to get it scanned... as long as I can get the van down there...👍 And thank you for getting back to me. I have all the tools in the world, so I like to fix my own sh%t, but I do get stumped...👍
I've had 2 F-150 5.4 2Vs, a '97 and an '03. Both had exhaust manifold gasket leaks on the right rear side, same place on both. Both required new exhaust manifolds, gaskets and stud bolts-nuts. I had both sides done on both trucks and each truck cost about $1,100 parts and labor.
@@thewhomphlew I get that, it’s fair obviously for having somebody else do your dirty work. My point was for such a simple task it’s ridiculous that somebody would pay another man to work on their own vehicle when it can easily been done yourself. I still think the price is a little steep but definitely fair.
@@jmtGAMING That's only around $40 higher than my estimates for the same job, new studs and everything. No mechanic ever opened shop to give people basement bargains prices, it's to make a living, and alot of people have no desire to start wrenching on their vehicle. Nothing wrong with that.
Hey brother. I don’t mean to step on your comment, but Ford issued a service bulletin on this probably 18 years plus ago now. It’s not that your comment is incorrect because it’s not. After my blowout just outside of warranty I did the research on this because I was pretty pissed. Ford acknowledged that incorrect machine work was the true culprit. There was only 2-3 threads machined into the heads for the plug to grab and hold. To give you a idea of how inadequate that is, in the Air Force if there wasn’t at least 3 threads showing on a nut it was a safety violation. So if you allow a minimum of 4 threads in the nut plus the 3 it’s obviously 7 threads. Granted, we’re talking about equipment considerably more expensive than a F-150 but it shows how far they missed the mark. They admitted the problem, and this was pre kit repair so I had to pay a dealer almost $2k to pull the head and repair it. They had you by the nuts back then. If they would’ve issued a recall they were looking at bankruptcy, so they let all of us absorb it. Not quite like changing some rusty gas tank straps. But as I said you are correct, the others were torqued to spec and I haven’t had a problem since. But with the trauma of the initial failure I do a torque check about every 20k miles give or take. Call it paranoia. Luckily the trucks 22 now and driven less than 2k a year. Sorry so long but I kinda was ranting on Ford. But I’ve purchased 5 more Fords since. I’m not sure if I’m loyal or stupid, but the rest have been very dependable nice vehicles.
@@scottjones8737 excellent overview and correct information. I own a 2001 F150 5.4 and have blown out two plugs at different times. Luckily my mechanic used the kit and it’s worked out. Good advice to double check the torques periodically. Thanks!
You don’t ever put a Helicoil in a Triton cylinder head period. The proper procedure is using a spark plug thread insert with a lip that tightens onto the flat seat area of the cylinder head.
Appreciate your video. I have an ‘03super duty with the 5.4 mated to a 6 speed manual transmission. Bought it used 10 years ago with 39k miles. Never has been a daily driver, religiously maintained, now has 85k. I did a “preemptive strike” regarding the spark plug issue, having seen a video about that. The plugs were all changed out 10k ago by a guy who claimed to be familiar with the 5.4 issue. This week I am pulling a 20’ empty car hauler many miles from home and the rear most plug on the pas. Side blows out of the head, damn!! My luck, the mechanic is out of town so I am dead in the water. I watched a video today that recommends motor craft only and over tighten them from 13 lbs to 23, claiming they will never come out, and, if you do not do that, it’s just matter of time before they do. What say you?
On an annual basis I perform a PM on all my equipment. On my 5.4 truck the annual PM now includes re-torquing the spark plugs. In addition to checking brake pads, differential oil, coolant condition, greasing suspension, suspension wear checks, filters, etc..
Put 1 drop of loctite or superglue on top of one side of the threads AFTER you tighten the sparkplug. This will allow you to break the glue when changing the spark plugs but will keep the plugs from backing out.
2000 f150 5.4 HD. Currently trying to tackle lean codes. There is a lot of crud buildup around the intake manifolds, above the coils etc. also the valve cover gaskets are leaking. No coolant loss or leaking from what I can tell. I’ve checked all vacuum hoses and replaced 1 that was iffy. No misfires either. Truck runs good but I need to pass smog here in CA. Hoping a new manifold, coils, plugs, and valve cover gaskets fix the lean codes. Also the truck has an aftermarket K&N cold air intake. It seems to be using the stick maf sensor but am currently looking for a stock intake hose.
My daily is a 02 5.4 f250 super duty all original engine and transmission just did a fuel pump finally at 330,000 miles also did a alternator few months ago doesnt leak any oil but burns alittle lol hellava truck 1 owner as well
Hey, Thanks for the vid. I have a 1997 F250 5.4 runs on CNG. 7 bolt rims. It was one of Fords fleet offerings at the time. Yer truck looks great by the way! Nice to see folks keeping the old stock running.
I had a coil misfire problem when I first got my 01 5.4 Ford. I replaced all the coils but found the problem was the clips that connect the electrical to the coils. The clips cost as much as the coils but have had no trouble since replacing them. My 5.4 2V now has over 250,000 miles and going strong.
My lower intake manifold was leaking. When the mechanic pulled it off, it had a Dorman manifold. The mechanic replaced it with another Dorman manifold. Best advice use Motorcraft.
Coolant loss problem I just learned to accept it like a cup to 2 cups every 3 to 4 days depending on how far I drive it Also I kept getting a misfire in # 1. cylinder after 2 shops diagnosed the problem after replacing plugs all 8. All 8 boots replaced on #1 cylinder the injector and the coil pack replaced still there was a misfire and check eng light still on. And scanner read misfire at start up both shops said it’s a blown head gasket coolant leaking into cly #1. They said I needed a new motor Motor and truck have 200,000 miles well I kept driving it since it was only stalling at start up but then cleared after warm up To make a long story short it ended being my coolant cap I disconnected the battery cable which cleared the check eng light. Then reconnected it. Then I bought a new cap installed it. Like I turned hand tight only no clicking sounds just snug. Well it’s been 200 miles and I’m sure the computer has recycled and the check engine light is still off and I’m keeping on eye on my anti freeze and oil level. Truck runs as good as new Some pple may disagree but I don’t have 8,000$ for rebuilt long block labor and parts. I’m just gona drive it till it dies. My truck is 2002. Ford F-150 XLT. SuperCrew 4.6 automatic The Coolant cap was bad and not venting causing excessive pressure inside the motor and cylinder heads probably forcing coolant into cly #1 causing that misfire at start up. Good luck to all. First On Race Day
Did your misfire ever come back? I keep getting cylinder #1 misfire comes and goes. Replaced coils, spark plugs, I even swaped out Injectors and it still came back for like 2 minutes and then went away idk what else to think lol pulled the coil and spark plug out and it's bone dry and looks super clean! Swaped out plugs too. You ever figure out the issue?
@@golpherboy13 Hi I sure did it was something so simple. My dad made the same comment to me watch it will be something simple. He was an equipment mechanic gas and diesel for Santa Fe Railroad back in the day, and on weekends I would help as a kid work on the family cars trouble shooting tune ups or engine overhauls we did it all , so now as an adult I don’t get Into rebuilding but the rest of it trouble shooting tune ups change parts I do get into it and love it. My dad was a Ford man also!! Any way it ended up being the coolant cap it was holding to much pressure or not venting and caused my coolant system to overheat like a volcano it was causing enough pressure in the left side head gasket to leak Into cylinder #1 So during the day it ran fine but when it sat at night under pressure that’s where it would relieve itself and piss coolant into that 1 cylinder causing a misfire every morning and the check engine light would come on. But once it burned the coolant it ran fine. I changed plugs boots checked all the wires on all the injectors coils on all 8 cylinders I replaced the the #1 coil and injector and plug and boot and still no luck . Also I was loosing coolant and I couldn’t figure out why it wasn’t leaking no leaks any where. I refilled my coolant burping it correctly slowly replaced the coolant, bought a new coolant cap tightened only finger tight do not let it click click or lock in place and that solved the whole problem That coolant cap was now breathing off the side of the cap and from the vent it’s been maybe 6 months problem never came back. Good luck!!
@@joecarreon4824 did you ever do a compression check? It's hard for my thoughts to go to: If the cooling system created enough pressure to push coolant through the head gasket, then the gasket would have to be shot. When the cylinder fires there will be far more pressure on the head gasket than the cooling system could ever create, so wouldn't there be an overheating condition happening? If it is working, great! I would continue driving it as well.
@@markchidester6239 Hi Mark. Yes I had a mechanic check the compression and it was fine all equal all pistons, It was the weirdest thing In my years of owning cars and trucks but it’s been running in top shape since I repaired the truck. I’m at 200,000 miles and going strong no overheating issues summer or winter or towing or off-road. Thanks for your comment
My 2000 4.6 2v has 297,000 and has had most of these except exhaust and issues with popping plugs. Most frustrating for me was an intermittent idle at 2300 rpm. IAC was opening...it wasnt the IAC or ECM...TPS wiring harness was shorting out and forcing IAC wide open. Runs perfectly now.
Hi would that cause misfire. I’ve trying to trouble shoot a misfire. Did full tune plugs and coils, maf sensor, cleaned out throttle body, and checked for vacuum. Leaks. Still scratching my head!. I unplugged the TPS today and I noticed the idle changed but went back to normal when I reconnected.
Before either of those check the hard vacuum lines going around the engine. The green and the white lines do the egr. (White lines may look yellow.) I had an egr code did all of the Cleaning above changed both the sensor, valve and solenoid to no avail. Wound up being a rotted vacuum lines behind the battery.
Excellent kit. Borescope and fine tooth ingersol ratchet as recommended by Calvin is a must. I use a small plastic tube to blast the chips out. Also grease on drill and tap to catch most of the chips. Also Loctite red seems to work better than JB weld on the inserts.
Replaced the coil packs on my 5.4 and fixed the misfire and fixed what I thought was a transmission problem. Used a good set of msd street fire coils. Had to get the light offf to pass inspection. It’s passed inspection then the light came back on a week or so later. I wonder what caused this.
Coolant crossover breaks on intake manifold, broken exhaust studs. Also, when you change the coils the retaining tabs break in the plugs (pigtails) and will misfire without zip ties or strong tape holding it in. Head gaskets fail - there are videos of useless coolant passages being welded closed to prevent the common spots. Also, there was a TSB on some heads from one of two plants that had burrs at the passenger rear and driver front leaking oil from faulty robotic machining - if you have oil on your starter and exhaust, make sure to machine the heads when replacing the gaskets. The driver side leaks behind the timing cover. Besides the motor, I've read carrier bearings go bad too if you have one and the odometer going out is a cluster ground needs resolder - same on Windstars, which also have coolant crossover leaks. leaky updated intake gaskets, and PS pump can have a trapped bolt which you have to take the others out and spin it around to get to, plus transmissions always go out and the suspension is trash. TSB on some years falling apart at highway speeds.
I have a 1999 expedition 5.4l 191k miles. Runs great, tons of power. Has a subtle knocking noise sounds like a quiet desil motor. Everything ive seen with similar noise was on the 3v phasers. What could be causing this on my 2v? Gets quieter after it warms up to temp. After 1200 rpm i can't hear it over the engine. Louder when colder outside.
I have a 03 the check engine light comes on and it's reading the sensor on the transmission and missing out mechanic said it's the sensor on the side of trans the safety internal switch that's my only problem good truck for 300.000 miles
I got 1 of this 03 ford f150 my po171 code was from my exalt clamp from my manifold was loss on the passenger side in also found that using the red & gray Eddie brok coil kit gives me the best 🔥
I have a 98 f150 with a 5.4 extended cab 4x4 and it has 268,724 miles as of right now. Only issue I have seen is rear main failure, dipstick housing broke off in the block and exhaust manifold cracked making a leak. All this happened at 242,288 miles. No other issues with the engine.
I have a weird problem. 2001 F150 Lariat 5.4L. Crank and no start. Was sure it was the fuel pump, replaced it and still same issue. no pressure on the fuel rail. Relay and fuses good. Command side of the relay getting 11.7v when the key is to ON. 30 pin have 11.7v but 87 pin have 6.5v when key is to ON. Good signal from PCM. Inertial switch is good but have 6.6v going to inertial switch when key is to ON. PLEASE HELP! I am going nuts. Thanks
Have you verified power to the fuel pump plug? Should have battery voltage on the pink/black wire and ground on the black wire, while cranking the engine.
100k on ours stripped the heads trying to get out the plugs out, next oil got into the coolant replaced the gasket behind the oil filter mount, next thermostat stuck popping a hole in the radiator due to over pressure, the list will just go on and on from here.
That and the oil pressure sensor go out on these 5.4 engines. Some vacuum hoses and gunk gets on the air pressure sensor piece but simple two screws remove and clean with carb cleaner - cheap to fix .
(2001 Ford F150 Lightning 5.4lL) Had a blown spark plug in #3. Replaced head. Truck started to shake around 35-40mph and up. Found they replaced the coil pack with a non oem, witch does not have same fire times. Replaced all coil packs. Had a P171, cleaned air intake and filter, no engine light so far. Now my OBD2 will not read, has power. but My truck now shakes around 40 mph and up. Does not shake when in 2nd gear. Still trouble shooting. Also had a ABS light and turn signals would not work, due to a leaky front window. Water was entering the cab running down to the fuse box under the dash. A quick kick to under the dash to vibrate any water on the wires it goes out. Any idea of the shaking at 40mph and up with no engine light or obd2 reading or a hard crank but will start problem would help alot
Terrific video, Thanks! My 2001 F150 eng 5.4 has Motor craft OEM ignition coil part# F7TU-12A366-CD are the following the same replacement F7TU-12A366-BA or F7TU-12A366-AB Thanks in advance, Albert D.
Thanks. Are you a certified mechanic? I am thinking of helping a friend out and buying his old F150. It is having misfire/spark plug related issues. Would it be worthwhile to buy it from him for a dirt cheap price? He just can't afford parts and labor at the moment. Lastly, how much do you think an engine rebuild costs on this truck? THANKS IN ADVANCE
It depends on alot of factors, year, condition, options, mileage, how cheap you can get it, etc. These things are super reliable, but not all that valuable unfortunately. Rather than trying to rebuild, it would likely be cheaper to just buy a reman engine. Last time I looked, you could get one for around $2800.
I have a 2002 F-150 Kingranch with the 2v and ive had to completely rebuild the intake with new parts and my pcm getting fried after 300k miles and a lot of abuse from the previous owners. Ive already gone througu the whole fuel system and timing system.
i have an 01, 5.4 . i keep getting missfire on cyl #3. mech said bad coil and replacedit. ran good for appx 3 weeks and bad #3 coil again. He replaced coil and ran fine for another 3 weeks, then agin missfire on # 3. He said they had a recall on the brand he was using, he put in a different coil and good for a month then same thing. he did a pressure test, no coolant in cylinder, plugs looked good. Now I have it on # 4 cyl. this seems to happen when it RAINS. The day after the rain truck runs fine ,with same coils, until next rainy day. I have taken the shroud off between windshield and hood, no clogged drain holes, ive caulked this shroud, caulked the ground screw holes in the firewall, checked the wiring harnesses for skint insulation, ive caulked the washer spouts on the hood, sprayed the water hose over truck for 30 mins, checked under hood and no visible water around the coils, or any where else. dry todat and truck runs fine????? Ive looked at the fuel control ? box above the spare tire doesnt look corroded or cracked. HELP pls
So I have a question on this engine, I have an 03 f150 with this engine, and 193000 miles. If I take the oil fill cap off while the engine is running, it almost dies. It also has developed a pretty bad misfire, and is pushing the antifreeze past the reservoir cap. Any tips?
Running rough when the oil cap is removed is pretty normal. On the coolant side, I would check for a head gasket problem, cracked intake, or leaking intake gasket.
I’ve got a 99 Super Duty 5.4 2v with 210k. Previous owner seems To have taken good care of truck and power train as it’s My daily and runs excellent. The only thing is the motor sounds like one of those big box delivery vans/ UPS vans on acceleration. Like the fan is blowing air into radiator unusually loud. Is that normal?
I am not sure if the super duty used a different fan clutch, but on the F-150s that's a sign that your fan clutch needs replaced. I've seen it a few times.
If you don't mind the noise, it won't cause you any problems. My 99 f-150 did the same thing, I tried 2 different brand aftermarket ones and they both did the same thing new out of the box. I bought an OEM one and it never did it again.
I have Ford f150 2003 Triton 5.4L v8 it cranks but no start codes system to lean in banks 1 and 2. codes for oxygen sensor and fuel pump circuit high. It has new fuel pump, fuel ,filter ,fuel pump relay , fuel injectors, plugs and coil packs. but is still crank no start. already spent lots of money on her but not starting any ideas
Same thing was happening to my 04 expedition until I found the issue was the fuse/relay box had corrosion on some parts causing bad connectivity with relays. Connected fuel pump directly with a shut off/on fuse and issue solved.
The misfire problem on mine (03 F250 5.4L 2v) is proving very difficult to diagnose. Changed fuel filter, did not help. Checked ECM with scanner, no codes and the O2 sensors are showing the proper voltage. Finally changed ALL the coils with brand new Edelbrock coils and new Autolite plugs. She ran great for 3 days, but now the misfire came right back. Runs rough, low power, feels like a misfire. I guess I'll have to recheck every plug and replace each coil one-by-one until I find the problem. Going to start with #4, then #8, then #7, and so on (hardest ones first). If it still has a misfire, then maybe I'm just going to replace the ECM.
@@KonaBlueSVT Well it's misfiring all the time. The idle is decent, but you can still feel it. When you say fuel trims, you mean looking at the live data stream on the scanner?
@@KonaBlueSVT Well it's all over the place but at idle I have 4.7 on LTFTRM1 and -12.5 on LTFTRM2. At 2200 RPM I get 4.7 on LTFTRM1 and -6.3 on LTFTRM2. On deceleration Bank 2 went as high as 15.49 while Bank 1 was at 0.0.
I blew the plug, but I didn't do the helicoil because I felt it was an intense job, I took it to a mechanic because it was over 116 degrees outside, and it was Cylinder fkn 8, right under the damn dash! There are a few ti es in my lifetime where I will concede.
My 01 Eddie Bauer expedition 2wd is sputtering while accelerating. it's the first one I bought so idk the whole in's and out's of it.. I did the plugs, air filter, fuel filter, cleaned the tank (didn't replace fuel pump though)... If I replace the pump and it still does that what does that mean internally? Im used to carburators I don't know fuel injection too well but I get it. Its check engine light is on btw. It runs great but it could run better. I got it for $600 from a family friend and he took care of it from what I can tell. Fluids are good, start up is good, idle is good, but I was just looking for advice on the motor and troubleshooting. This video was great BTW
I have issues with 98. Mainly #4, I've replaced coil and boot but can't get the plug to break loose. I moved fuse block out of the way still not enough room
2 things I have had luck doing on stubborn spark plugs. The first is to perform a fuel induction service, it helps break up any carbon inside the cylinder that is holding the plug in. The 2nd is get the engine to operating temperature and then fill the spark plug well with penetrating lube, let it set for a couple days and then try to get it out.
Hey man please reach out to me I think my oil pump went bad but my oil pressure is at 0 and oil light is on no noise coming from engine no tick jus sounds like it’s running ruff please reach out seams like you have a lot of knowledge 2002 f150 v8 triton 5.4
I would start by manually checking the oil pressure to make sure you don't just have a dead wire from your sensor. If you truly had no oil pressure it should be making some noise.
Just bought a 2000 e350 5.4 for 500 bucks from a university in OH has 167,xxx on the dash starts runs ands drives no check engine but gives a ticking sound when I hit the gas. Not even sure where it’s coming from. Plan on replacing all plugs and coils hoping to get 150k miles from it
I have a 1997 f15@ and I floored it and after I let go of the gas the radio and gages started to glitch out and turn off and on then the motor turned off what should I do
I am dealing with a coolant leak into the cab. I found a puddle on the floor of the driver side inside the truck. There is a smell in the air conditioning but hot air and cold seem to work ok. There is also a bit of fog in the AC when it is on. I’m thinking it could be the heater core but I’m not sure. Truck is a 2002 5.4 Supercrew fx4
@@KonaBlueSVT Thank you. We'll be driving it this way for a bit until I save enough to get it fixed. Or I might try to just buy the part and do the scary job myself. I'm thinking about it.
@@KonaBlueSVT I replaced the heater core last fall on my 2001 F150 5.4L 2 valve. You need to be confident enough to remove the entire dash. Watch the available videos, several times. There are different tips on different videos. the professionals who are doing it repeatedly can get it out in 15-20 minutes, but they KNOW where all the difficult bolts are, and how to get to them. I took about two hours to get mine out, referring back to the video several times. I had chopped off the hoses in the engine compartment and bypassed the heater core last spring, knowing that in Texas I wouldn't need heat until late fall fall. So it stopped the leak until I had time to take it apart and replace the core. I was 67 at the time, not a professional mechanic, but I have done a lot of car repairs in my time. Then i replaced the radiator, the intake manifold, drilled out and tapped two additional spark plugs that blew out, and now this week I have to replace the timing chains and tensioners, oil pump and valve ccover and timing cover gaskets and I may have to drop the oil pan as well. 22 yr old ride w/313,000 +miles. Can't complain too much,
I have a 2003 expedition 160k miles. been getting misfire on cylinder 1 that comes and goes. Codes are p0301 and p0316. I Replaced plugs and coils, swapped out injectors and it went away and today it came back for like 2 minutes and then went away. Check engine didn't even come on I felt it misire when i started it checked on my scanner and it was back. Drove it and now it feels fine again. Took out the plug and its dry no coolant, looks super clean as it's new. No milkshake in the oil as I did an oil change and oil looks brand new still. Don't know what else it could be. Last time I got misfire was about a week ago.
@KonaBlueSVT checked this morning and misfire is gone even from the scanner p0301 but I still have p0316. I am having a rough start as it sounds like the starter might be going out or maybe the crank position sensor. Sometimes the starter just spins. But after I start it, it sounds really good and driving it feels great has good power and is super smooth and quiet. Cant figure out the problem. Gonna add some marvel mystery into the spark plug hole see if it clean anything up in there that could be causing it to misfire. Gonna go check to see if the starter is bad because it sounds pretty bad when starting. Hoping the flywheel is fine and the teeth aren't grinded down.
@KonaBlueSVT last night when I was checking everything again I took out the spark plug and it was clean and looked good. I did notice my coolant was a bit low and got somewhat worried but as I checked I noticed dried up coolant on passenger side coils. Seemed to be coming from the heater control valve so I ordered a new one and im going to replace it. I'm wondering if possibly some coolant got into cylinder 3 or 4 and caused a little misfire to occur. I have heard of people having a misfire on cylinder 1 reading but replace a spark plug or coil for another cylinder and it fixes the problem. Could it be a faulty ECU reading?
I have a 2003 F150 Lariat super cab. Sometimes it won't start. The key chip indicator flashes instead of coming in and staying on steady. The motor spins but that's all. Using the command start works. Is there a connection problem with the chip reader? Can this be changed out? I assume that the command starter bypasses the chip reader to allow starting without the key. Is it possible to bypass the chip to cure the problem permanently? Sometimes these safety/ helpful ideas by Engineers drive me draft! Lol
Do you have another key to try? The security light should flash rapidly for 60 seconds, then it will flash a 2 digit code. This may give you a place to start.
@@KonaBlueSVT Thank you. What happened was that a previous owner put in after market interior lights. They wired it upto the ignition system. When the lights shorted out. So did the ignition system. So the shop that I put it into took out the after market lighting but also disabled the command start. I took it back in after the ignition wouldn't work. They hooked it up but after a couple of trips it again has security chip connection malfunctions. My next chance is with the shop that put in the command start. I think that it is a programming problem. Because a command start has to bypass the chip to enable the motor to start without a key in the ignition. I hope that this works. I have a back up key from a lock shop. The original and the back up key have the same issues. So it is chip connectivity problem. I think.
Repeated misfires in cylinder 3. Cannot figure this out. Changed all coils plugs and an injector. Ran perfect for months. Then intermittently cylinder 3 again starts to misfire. Now it’s doing it all the time. I’m extremely frustrated with this. I’ve played musical coils tested injector connectors for voltage all good. Why’s this keep happening?
@@KonaBlueSVT Haven’t checked fuel trim thanks for the tip. Coils were TRQ’s. I moved them around same problem. I’m getting power at the injector when engines running. I’m going to check again to see if it pulses with a better test light.
Looking at a 2005 F250 with the 5.4 but I don't know how to tell if a 2v or 3v engine from photos. Looked up the VIN on Autocheck and it just said "5.4 V8 SMPI"
Hey wondering how your gas mileage was in the 5.4 f150 I recently bought one just trying to base it off of similar trucks mine is the 03 f150 7700 with the beefer 7 lug rims an I believe on f250 frame
I have a 2003 f150 5.4 triton heratage an its spuing oil an ovee heating oils brand new an all over my block (street ).I replace the thermastate bot shur whats up at all.
Someone plz help I have a 1998 f150 5.4 and I've replaced radiator cap,radiator,water pump,and thermostat and it still blows coolant from the cap idk what else to do besides pour gas on it and watch it burn
That's a lot of miles for anything, it's a dice roll. It could go another 100k, or it might be at the end of its road. How's the maintenance been? How's the rest of the truck holding out?
I have a 1998 Ford F-250 with the 5.4 triton. It has an issue with the engine shutting off when I stop at a red light. It has no idle problems, and is throwing no codes, the engine just shuts off all of a sudden. Any idea what could be causing that? Thanks.
I had a bad idle it would bounce on my 99 f150, I switched my spark plugs about 2 -3 months ago. I don’t drive it much. I switch the EGR valve pressure sensor it calmed it down. But I ordered the egr valve to which came in later in the week. Once I installed it and turn the truck on I felt like a pressure was released while turning the truck on now When I accelerate I hear a hissing sound. Idk what it could be anyone know? Or have an idea. The truck sit most of the time vacuum lines all looked fine switched mainly all of them.
I need help. I have a 2001 f150 5.4 litre Tritan V8. I got a code 307 and changed plug and coil on cylinder 7. Then I got code for EGR sensor. Now I am getting two codes. 307 and 174. Need advice please. I have good power but real rough idle and hesitation.
Just bought a 2001 lariat 5.4 supercrew with 200k and paid 3400 bucks. Because it had a p304. Swapped the pack and now it runs absolutely perfect.
My daily is a 2000 with the 2v, did all plugs and coils at 150 000 and both exhaust manifolds shortly after. Got almost 300 000 now and it still runs quiet and smooth, body is rotting away but hell, I took her moose hunting 1400 kms up north last September and she never skipped a beat. I’ll drive it until the motor or transmission fail. 75,000$ for a new truck???? I’ll pass
Great video for all of us 5.4 2V owners thank you for taking time to do this video.
@SteveReneMedia Thanks for the comment!
I have 2000 f150 and it has 160,000mi. It just started to miss fire really bad. Did changing the spark plugs and coils help you with this issue?
@@waltercrigler6732 had the same issue! I used a obd reader to shoot the codes first. It kept telling me bank 7 and bank 2 misfire. I just order all 8 plugs and 8 coils. Did em all. I didn’t want to replace just the bad ones, she had 200k at that point I figured the other ones weren’t far behind. Put a new air filter on and an oil change and she’s good to go. Runs smoother than it ever ran I think lol. It’s too bad she’s rusting away!
If you want that truck to stay on the road longer than 300k with a repair that will save you alot of money here it it..... Above your oil filter is a aluminum oil cooler heat exchanger . Inside the heat exchanger is a port for oil and another port for coolant .. When this part goes the oil pressure will pump oil out the engine into the coolant system as the coolant system has less pressure. The radiator cap will plug with oil and the coolant system will blow somewhere after the oil fills it and the engine runs dry of oil ... The first sign of this failure is you will hear bubbling gurgling in the dashboard from the heater core then oil pressure will drop
I've had "0" problems with my 2 valve 5.4, in my book best engine ever built, everything goes wrong this is just minor issues, ford should have never discontinued these engines.
This and the 4.6 2v engines are the best engines Ford has ever made, and they certainly won’t EVER make anything better than these engines.
I had an 01 with the 5.4 and only had to do could packs at about 140,000 miles and a radiator weld due to a small crack. Other than that it was a great truck! Now I have a 2000 super duty with the same engine.
Bullet proof!
The government keeps demanding better gas mileage and emissions so the motors have to continue to evolve. It’s awful.
My 2001 Ford f150 5.4 l just turned over 401,000 MI
1.Exhaust manifold leak
2.Spark plugs blowing threads out usually after becoming loose.
3. Coolant leaking at intake manifold
4. Vacuum lines leaking
I'm at 201,000 miles and have had #1, #2 and #4; additionally I'm on my 3rd alternator.
Plastic sides on the radiator package ended up replacing it
170k miles only had number one but thats from someone not putting the bolts on even its a work truck i haul 5 ton all the time the engine is a mule just the gear ratio is very low meaning shes sluggish but powerful
#3 💯😔
I must be lucky, as I've only had to replace the ALT, the MAF and (I think) 6 coils over the last 10 years.
No blown plugs, no coolant or vacuum leaks, just an exhaust tic that goes away after running for a minute or so.
208,000 miles and still going strong.
Best engine ever. My 2003 5.4 Ext. Cab has zero issues. I've had it for 20 years!
Mine is a 2002 Ford E350 van with the 5.4L. I have a misfire in one cylinder and after changing all plugs and coils, it is still there . I am a retired auto mechanic and thinking now of doing head gaskets and timing components and all new spark plug thread inserts and a water pump while it is dismantled. Engine has 176,500 miles. No smoke or leaks and runs well despite that one cylinder misfire....once I find that...and I get the steering tightened up and responsive....I will take this van on a 5000 mile bucket list trip before settling down in lower eastern Michigan fo summers and Daytona Beach Florida in winter!
My 5.4L March 2022- 402K Miles. Original Motor, Tranny, Starter, Driveshaft.
I can not recommend this HIGHLY enough- change all the coils at the same time & make sure they are the highest quality you get get your mitts on. NO CHEAP EBAY KNOCKOFFS ! Get Original or better. Top end Coils will keep your 5.4L running smooth and purring like a kitten. My truck is 21 years old 402K Miles and last tank of gas : 16.4 mpg. I track the mileage fanatically. I can not hear or barely feel my motor when it's running ! If you buy cheap coils you will suffer endlessly......misfires , check engine lights galore, rough running, etc.
That's impressive, thanks for sharing!
Yeah I made the mistake of buying cheap coils. Never do it.
@@darrenthoreson3924 One full year with top end coils. Running like a dream. Cheap coils were throwing codes all the time. Ran rough. I'm getting the same MPG now as when it was new.
@@matt75hooper motor craft or another brand?
@@ajmedeiros77 Denso coils. I can not stress enough how incredible the truck had been running since I put these in. I was using cheapo ebay coils. This truck has 406k miles & has been purring like a kitten with those coils.
While you're in there put new plugs in too. Any top rated plug will do. I used Motocraft.
The person that recommended the Denso is a 30 year Ford mechanic. A real fanatic too.
Good luck.
2003 Lariet, had to change the plastic intake at 150k miles because the crossover tube was leaking coolant into cylinder one spark plug tube, fouling out the coil pack. When I had the intake off replacing it, I did the plugs, injectors and all new German high output coil packs. Been running like a champ ever since. 250,000 miles and going.
I've owned my 2001 f150 harley since 2004 it has over 400,000 kms and still drives like new. All I've done is normal maintenance and it's healthy as could be.
I'm buying one just like what u have u think it's a good buy
Depends on all the details. Price, options, miles, etc.
Be ready to drop 3 to 6 grand on timing chain complete replacement oil pan cleaning and gasket ,timing cover oil seal and cover seals 2 timing chains ford oem chain guides oem chain tensioners new oil sump tube screen gets clogged with metal and plastic new oring for pickup tube big bottle of blue loctite valve cover gaskets with bolt grommets new coil packs new spark plugs with bag of antiseize new fuel filter new air filter cam holding tools 1/4,3/8,1/2 torque wrenches crankshaft socket new water pump new high volume oil pump by melling suction fill syringe for oil pump orfice priming and while your at it change you trans filter and fluid some have reusable gasket 3 gallons of new yellow antifreeze and 3 gallons of distilled water .I installed a new fan clutch and cam followers and watch out for needing new cams to if worn these engines will last a very long time if you keep up on the timing chains oh and 2 new oil filters and a oil can for prelube and grey silicone I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things but it's a huge dirty job 80 percent of this job is cleaning the metal and gunk out of the oil pan oh an better get 2 or 3 gallons of oem ford trans fluid mine took 2 gallons I had a seal leak all fluid leaked out while sitting when doing timing job i also got new battery and alternator cost me u.s.d 3500.00 and 2 month of couple hours a day after work a total night mare but the shop would not have done this job the right way if you want it done right do it your self .now on to the axle bearing and seals that are shot 😭 oh and by the way my 2002 4.6 f 150 had 250,000 miles timing chains were fine it's the loss of oil pressure due to oil pickup screen getting clogged from chain tensioners eating themselves yep total self destruction and I kept my oil clean ya cant see the oil pickup screen clogged unless you jack the engine to the ceiling and take oil pan off it's a bear to do trans bell housing is in the way it took a miracle to get it out and 3 bottle Jack's 2 ramps and a floor jack ..
@@matthewcrews4034 You can get a complete reman engine for around $3000......
I have a complete 2003 super charged drive train sitting in my garage from a 2003 harley . The day this one shits the bed it will give me all the more reason to do the swap lol
My dad owns a 07 e350 with the 2v 5.4 and the only major problems it has had over the 12 years of ownership was bad catalytic Converters and a probelm with the coil packs causing the engine to randomly shutoff at any time, we found out that the coil packs (which we had recently replaced) were defective, so we reinstalled the factory coil packs and its been running fine since then.
97 f150 5.4. I spent 2 years and at least a grand chasing lean code on both banks. No vacuum leak, plugs and coils good ,changed egr, throttle body and maf sensor twice. It always ran great but mpg was terrible. Finally take to a real mechanic, he asked when I changed maf did I also change the housing. Nope. He showed me that Ford requires the maf a d housing needs to be matched and flowed together. Put it on and cleared codes and it runs like new. Bought from Napa, about 265.00.
100% I’m not great when it comes to mechanical stuff but regardless of what vehicle I always recommend changing the housing and sensor at the same time
Thanks for your advice man!
(1997 f150,5.4,automatic,4x4)
Ok but did the MAF sensor trip the MIL?
@larrymclain no, it was lean codes on both banks.
Tried all kinds of shit to fix. Even changed maf sensor to no avail.
Finally changed maf sensor and housing as a matched unit. Codes gone and all is good since....
Did you have any misfire issues?
Love my F250 SD, It has 398K, It has blown a plug, and leaked coolant but still it runs strong. I do often pray for my truck to run well. Thank you, Jesus.
How much to fix the blown plug ? $$$$ Thanks
@@wskripka1 For about $30 at the parts store, I bought a helicoil kit and fixed it myself. Took about 1 1/2 hours and it has held now for about 10 years.
@@wskripka1 Just pray on it brutha.
If you pray to Jesus for your truck you have a bad coil yourself
@@tracydrum6733 Talk to me. You can't believe all this stuff created itself?
03 FX4 here, 5.4 just hit 250K never had a plug issue. I am on my third plastic intake! Been a great truck, plan to drive it another 22 years!
You forgot one thing on those misfires. Coolant crossover the plastic mold busting out are cracking and then the gasket blows out which causes antifreeze to get down into the Spark plug whales and causes bark plug the foul out or cold pack to go out as well lotta times you won’t see The engine coolant leak if it’s not a bad leak it could go on for six months to a year I’ve just barely leaking into those spark plug wells and just follow spark plug here and there. I know this because it happened to me. I’ve got a 2001 F150 bought it with 42,000 miles in 2005 it’s got 250,000 on it now. Knock on wood and a pretty good truck overall, it’s been good enough that I wanna keep it and I also all of the work to it. As of so far. The only issues I really had that was serious is the intake manifold. Also if you’re changing that it’s also good to go ahead and take the throttlebody and clean it really well while you have it off. My truck at the engine service light on from like 160 to 170,000 miles up until I change the intake manifold the last time and I clean the throttle body real well. Which I have not had a light come back on since. Which is wild because it still has the original exhaust and original 02 sensors as well.
Excellent video, thank you !!! I discovered just yesterday that my 2000 Ford Expedition has a blown plug. Your video helped me diagnose my problem !!!
Glad it helped! Thanks for the comment!
@@KonaBlueSVT You're very welcome !!!
My only question is this- when I take it to the repair shop here in Woodiinville, WA, will they be able to cut new threads into that spark plug hole ?? ( It's the furthest back spark plug, on the passenger side ) I could barely reach the coil with my hand. I am concerned that they may have to pull the engine to make this repair, because there is such a small amount of room. Can the thread cutting tools fit into that small space ?? Thanks for your reply !!!
@DanielGoodness87 They should be able to do any of them with the engine still in the truck. They make a special kit to fix these.
@@KonaBlueSVT I am so relieved, thanks so much for this !!! When a guy is on Social Security, like I am, car repairs are scary.....
Ford wanted to buy Lotus Motors. They refused to sell. Ford then contacted their employees and offered more money to come to Ford. The engine they first designed was the 4.6/5.4 two valve.
He 4.6 and 5.4 were designed off the 2.3 pinto Motor back in the 70s
@@DaveyJones-h5k Too bad they didn't use a timing belt. It might have been as good as Toyotas 4.7
A mechanic told me that the metal pipes on the left side of the engi e were known to corode and bust a hole where coolant would spit out. Reason, too much water to coolant ratio. 4 years later, it happened to me. It requires the manifold to be taken off.
Very awesome content brother. I have sprayed carb cleaner around the back in my '98 E250 van, but couldn't really get around the front because of all the over-emissioned crap in the way... but after changing plugs, coil packs, injectors, fuel filter,... ran great for a couple days, now it's running very sluggish, weak as hell, and now I have no check engine light...
Also... now it's having a hard time starting...
Have you checked fuel trims and fuel pressure?
No I haven't, I am realizing now I should have bought a scanner, or paid a shop first... before throwing parts at it.. lol,,, but since I hadn't changed plugs, coils, or injectors, or oil for ten years, it couldn't hurt... HA!
However, I got a guy, that knows a guy, he's gonna hook me up to get it scanned... as long as I can get the van down there...👍
And thank you for getting back to me.
I have all the tools in the world, so I like to fix my own sh%t, but I do get stumped...👍
@faronsquare4911 hope you get it figured out! Come back and comment what the fix was!
Big problem a had was the intake manifold cracking by the crossover and leaking coolant on the center block.
I've had 2 F-150 5.4 2Vs, a '97 and an '03. Both had exhaust manifold gasket leaks on the right rear side, same place on both. Both required new exhaust manifolds, gaskets and stud bolts-nuts. I had both sides done on both trucks and each truck cost about $1,100 parts and labor.
That’s an absolutely ridiculous price, if you did it yourself it would have cost you about $300 and a days worth of work with no lift.
@@jmtGAMING price seems fair to me. If you can't do it yourself you have to respect the guy that will do it for you and not itch over the cost.
@@thewhomphlew I get that, it’s fair obviously for having somebody else do your dirty work. My point was for such a simple task it’s ridiculous that somebody would pay another man to work on their own vehicle when it can easily been done yourself. I still think the price is a little steep but definitely fair.
@@jmtGAMING That's only around $40 higher than my estimates for the same job, new studs and everything. No mechanic ever opened shop to give people basement bargains prices, it's to make a living, and alot of people have no desire to start wrenching on their vehicle. Nothing wrong with that.
@@jmtGAMING Yes, the price is a bit steep, but it takes a long time.... and it is not easy
The reason they blow spark plugs is under torquing of the plugs. Torque to 25 lbs dry and you'll never have a problem.
It helps, but is not a cure all.
Hey brother. I don’t mean to step on your comment, but Ford issued a service bulletin on this probably 18 years plus ago now. It’s not that your comment is incorrect because it’s not. After my blowout just outside of warranty I did the research on this because I was pretty pissed. Ford acknowledged that incorrect machine work was the true culprit. There was only 2-3 threads machined into the heads for the plug to grab and hold. To give you a idea of how inadequate that is, in the Air Force if there wasn’t at least 3 threads showing on a nut it was a safety violation. So if you allow a minimum of 4 threads in the nut plus the 3 it’s obviously 7 threads. Granted, we’re talking about equipment considerably more expensive than a F-150 but it shows how far they missed the mark. They admitted the problem, and this was pre kit repair so I had to pay a dealer almost $2k to pull the head and repair it. They had you by the nuts back then. If they would’ve issued a recall they were looking at bankruptcy, so they let all of us absorb it. Not quite like changing some rusty gas tank straps. But as I said you are correct, the others were torqued to spec and I haven’t had a problem since. But with the trauma of the initial failure I do a torque check about every 20k miles give or take. Call it paranoia. Luckily the trucks 22 now and driven less than 2k a year. Sorry so long but I kinda was ranting on Ford. But I’ve purchased 5 more Fords since. I’m not sure if I’m loyal or stupid, but the rest have been very dependable nice vehicles.
@@scottjones8737
Well put, thank you
@Kurtis Waskey 🤣 your joking right. Your overdrive had noting to do with it. 🤣 that like telling the new guy to change the blinker fluid.
@@scottjones8737 excellent overview and correct information. I own a 2001 F150 5.4 and have blown out two plugs at different times. Luckily my mechanic used the kit and it’s worked out. Good advice to double check the torques periodically. Thanks!
You don’t ever put a Helicoil in a Triton cylinder head period. The proper procedure is using a spark plug thread insert with a lip that tightens onto the flat seat area of the cylinder head.
Appreciate your video. I have an ‘03super duty with the 5.4 mated to a 6 speed manual transmission. Bought it used 10 years ago with 39k miles. Never has been a daily driver, religiously maintained, now has 85k. I did a “preemptive strike” regarding the spark plug issue, having seen a video about that. The plugs were all changed out 10k ago by a guy who claimed to be familiar with the 5.4 issue. This week I am pulling a 20’ empty car hauler many miles from home and the rear most plug on the pas. Side blows out of the head, damn!! My luck, the mechanic is out of town so I am dead in the water. I watched a video today that recommends motor craft only and over tighten them from 13 lbs to 23, claiming they will never come out, and, if you do not do that, it’s just matter of time before they do. What say you?
Tightening to the higher Torque spec helps, but it's still not a guarantee. I had one personally that still blew out afterwards.
@@KonaBlueSVT how about some sticky locktite goo?
That might help, but then you will have trouble getting them out if you needed to for a misfire or anything.
On an annual basis I perform a PM on all my equipment. On my 5.4 truck the annual PM now includes re-torquing the spark plugs. In addition to checking brake pads, differential oil, coolant condition, greasing suspension, suspension wear checks, filters, etc..
Put 1 drop of loctite or superglue on top of one side of the threads AFTER you tighten the sparkplug. This will allow you to break the glue when changing the spark plugs but will keep the plugs from backing out.
Tip for anyone looking for ignition coils. The MotorCraft coils are made by DENSO.
Get factory quality coils without the markup.
DENSO #673-6000 is the part number.
Had to change the computer at 225000 miles. Been a fantastic truck.
2000 f150 5.4 HD. Currently trying to tackle lean codes. There is a lot of crud buildup around the intake manifolds, above the coils etc. also the valve cover gaskets are leaking. No coolant loss or leaking from what I can tell. I’ve checked all vacuum hoses and replaced 1 that was iffy. No misfires either. Truck runs good but I need to pass smog here in CA. Hoping a new manifold, coils, plugs, and valve cover gaskets fix the lean codes. Also the truck has an aftermarket K&N cold air intake. It seems to be using the stick maf sensor but am currently looking for a stock intake hose.
My daily is a 02 5.4 f250 super duty all original engine and transmission just did a fuel pump finally at 330,000 miles also did a alternator few months ago doesnt leak any oil but burns alittle lol hellava truck 1 owner as well
My lean code was dirty throttle body and some pluged up holes behind throttle body
Hey, Thanks for the vid. I have a 1997 F250 5.4 runs on CNG. 7 bolt rims. It was one of Fords fleet offerings at the time. Yer truck looks great by the way!
Nice to see folks keeping the old stock running.
Hey, I appreciate it!
I have a 99 f250 5.4.2valve 7 lug.. and I've been having misfire issue, vacuum leaks and overheating
I had a coil misfire problem when I first got my 01 5.4 Ford. I replaced all the coils but found the problem was the clips that connect the electrical to the coils. The clips cost as much as the coils but have had no trouble since replacing them. My 5.4 2V now has over 250,000 miles and going strong.
Sometimes when the plastic intake goes bad coolant will fill the spark plug well and cause a misfire also.
Also rusts the plug & cause issues getting a socket on it . Gotta scrape it & blow to get out
@@richardstrange2432 Absolutely!
My lower intake manifold was leaking. When the mechanic pulled it off, it had a Dorman manifold. The mechanic replaced it with another Dorman manifold. Best advice use Motorcraft.
Coolant loss problem I just learned to accept it like a cup to 2 cups every 3 to 4 days depending on how far I drive it
Also I kept getting a misfire in # 1. cylinder after 2 shops diagnosed the problem after replacing plugs all 8. All 8 boots replaced on #1 cylinder the injector and the coil pack replaced still there was a misfire and check eng light still on. And scanner read misfire at start up both shops said it’s a blown head gasket coolant leaking into cly #1. They said I needed a new motor
Motor and truck have 200,000 miles well I kept driving it since it was only stalling at start up but then cleared after warm up
To make a long story short it ended being my coolant cap
I disconnected the battery cable which cleared the check eng light. Then reconnected it. Then I bought a new cap installed it. Like I turned hand tight only no clicking sounds just snug. Well it’s been 200 miles and I’m sure the computer has recycled and the check engine light is still off and I’m keeping on eye on my anti freeze and oil level. Truck runs as good as new
Some pple may disagree but I don’t have 8,000$ for rebuilt long block labor and parts. I’m just gona drive it till it dies. My truck is
2002. Ford F-150 XLT. SuperCrew 4.6 automatic
The Coolant cap was bad and not venting causing excessive pressure inside the motor and cylinder heads probably forcing coolant into cly #1 causing that misfire at start up. Good luck to all. First On Race Day
Did your misfire ever come back? I keep getting cylinder #1 misfire comes and goes. Replaced coils, spark plugs, I even swaped out Injectors and it still came back for like 2 minutes and then went away idk what else to think lol pulled the coil and spark plug out and it's bone dry and looks super clean! Swaped out plugs too. You ever figure out the issue?
@@golpherboy13
Hi
I sure did it was something so simple. My dad made the same comment to me watch it will be something simple. He was an equipment mechanic gas and diesel for Santa Fe Railroad back in the day, and on weekends I would help as a kid work on the family cars trouble shooting tune ups or engine overhauls we did it all , so now as an adult I don’t get Into rebuilding but the rest of it trouble shooting tune ups change parts I do get into it and love it. My dad was a Ford man also!!
Any way it ended up being the coolant cap it was holding to much pressure or not venting and caused my coolant system to overheat like a volcano it was causing enough pressure in the left side head gasket to leak Into cylinder #1
So during the day it ran fine but when it sat at night under pressure that’s where it would relieve itself and piss coolant into that 1 cylinder causing a misfire every morning and the check engine light would come on. But once it burned the coolant it ran fine. I changed plugs boots checked all the wires on all the injectors coils on all 8 cylinders I replaced the the #1 coil and injector and plug and boot and still no luck . Also I was loosing coolant and I couldn’t figure out why it wasn’t leaking no leaks any where. I refilled my coolant burping it correctly slowly replaced the coolant, bought a new coolant cap tightened only finger tight do not let it click click or lock in place and that solved the whole problem
That coolant cap was now breathing off the side of the cap and from the vent it’s been maybe 6 months problem never came back. Good luck!!
@@joecarreon4824 did you ever do a compression check?
It's hard for my thoughts to go to:
If the cooling system created enough pressure to push coolant through the head gasket, then the gasket would have to be shot. When the cylinder fires there will be far more pressure on the head gasket than the cooling system could ever create, so wouldn't there be an overheating condition happening?
If it is working, great! I would continue driving it as well.
@@markchidester6239
Hi Mark. Yes I had a mechanic check the compression and it was fine all equal all pistons,
It was the weirdest thing In my years of owning cars and trucks but it’s been running in top shape since I repaired the truck. I’m at 200,000 miles and going strong no overheating issues summer or winter or towing or off-road.
Thanks for your comment
Calvan spark plug repair kit. I DID ALL 8 IN MY ENGINE .Best in the market.
My 2000 4.6 2v has 297,000 and has had most of these except exhaust and issues with popping plugs. Most frustrating for me was an intermittent idle at 2300 rpm. IAC was opening...it wasnt the IAC or ECM...TPS wiring harness was shorting out and forcing IAC wide open. Runs perfectly now.
Hi would that cause misfire. I’ve trying to trouble shoot a misfire. Did full tune plugs and coils, maf sensor, cleaned out throttle body, and checked for vacuum. Leaks. Still scratching my head!. I unplugged the TPS today and I noticed the idle changed but went back to normal when I reconnected.
@makinmusikpro I wasn't seeing a misfire with the high idle. It was scary as heck coming to a stoplight though.
Alot get egr codes too.Either the egr valve,the pressure sensor or clogged ports.
Before either of those check the hard vacuum lines going around the engine. The green and the white lines do the egr. (White lines may look yellow.)
I had an egr code did all of the Cleaning above changed both the sensor, valve and solenoid to no avail.
Wound up being a rotted vacuum lines behind the battery.
calvan kitting my whole engine currently. Hardest part is making room and getting majority of chips out of cylinder. It is an awesome DIY kit!
I installed cal-van inserts on our 5.4 2v 6k miles ago. Excellent kit. Very confident in the repair being permanent.
On the spark plugs? I just bought the spark plug kit and I’m about to do the job, what other kits did you buy
Excellent kit. Borescope and fine tooth ingersol ratchet as recommended by Calvin is a must. I use a small plastic tube to blast the chips out.
Also grease on drill and tap to catch most of the chips. Also Loctite red seems to work better than JB weld on the inserts.
Replaced the coil packs on my 5.4 and fixed the misfire and fixed what I thought was a transmission problem. Used a good set of msd street fire coils. Had to get the light offf to pass inspection. It’s passed inspection then the light came back on a week or so later. I wonder what caused this.
Yes, happened on My Excursion V10 2v was getting codes on shifter. changed all COP original 167K , fixed.
Need to replace all COPs not just the failed one.
I would also like to add if an unfortunate overheat issue occurs. Then you will experience head gasket issues as well.
That's driver error
Coolant crossover breaks on intake manifold, broken exhaust studs. Also, when you change the coils the retaining tabs break in the plugs (pigtails) and will misfire without zip ties or strong tape holding it in. Head gaskets fail - there are videos of useless coolant passages being welded closed to prevent the common spots. Also, there was a TSB on some heads from one of two plants that had burrs at the passenger rear and driver front leaking oil from faulty robotic machining - if you have oil on your starter and exhaust, make sure to machine the heads when replacing the gaskets. The driver side leaks behind the timing cover.
Besides the motor, I've read carrier bearings go bad too if you have one and the odometer going out is a cluster ground needs resolder - same on Windstars, which also have coolant crossover leaks. leaky updated intake gaskets, and PS pump can have a trapped bolt which you have to take the others out and spin it around to get to, plus transmissions always go out and the suspension is trash. TSB on some years falling apart at highway speeds.
BROKEN TIMING CHAIN GUIDES AND TENSIONERS
Water pumps lose their fins from electrolysis
I have a 1999 expedition 5.4l 191k miles. Runs great, tons of power. Has a subtle knocking noise sounds like a quiet desil motor. Everything ive seen with similar noise was on the 3v phasers. What could be causing this on my 2v? Gets quieter after it warms up to temp. After 1200 rpm i can't hear it over the engine. Louder when colder outside.
Could be an exhaust leak, especially if it improves after warm up.
I have a 03 the check engine light comes on and it's reading the sensor on the transmission and missing out mechanic said it's the sensor on the side of trans the safety internal switch that's my only problem good truck for 300.000 miles
I got 1 of this 03 ford f150 my po171 code was from my exalt clamp from my manifold was loss on the passenger side in also found that using the red & gray Eddie brok coil kit gives me the best 🔥
Thanks for sharing
I have a 98 f150 with a 5.4 extended cab 4x4 and it has 268,724 miles as of right now. Only issue I have seen is rear main failure, dipstick housing broke off in the block and exhaust manifold cracked making a leak. All this happened at 242,288 miles. No other issues with the engine.
I have a 97 f150 5.4 with 250000 miles only have to change 8 coil over regular oil changes
Runs like new great truck
Sexy truck 🛻 The small hard plastic vacuum lines off brake boost can rub on intake if they don’t have a protective cover
Thanks!
I have a weird problem. 2001 F150 Lariat 5.4L. Crank and no start. Was sure it was the fuel pump, replaced it and still same issue. no pressure on the fuel rail. Relay and fuses good. Command side of the relay getting 11.7v when the key is to ON. 30 pin have 11.7v but 87 pin have 6.5v when key is to ON. Good signal from PCM. Inertial switch is good but have 6.6v going to inertial switch when key is to ON. PLEASE HELP! I am going nuts. Thanks
Have you verified power to the fuel pump plug? Should have battery voltage on the pink/black wire and ground on the black wire, while cranking the engine.
100k on ours stripped the heads trying to get out the plugs out, next oil got into the coolant replaced the gasket behind the oil filter mount, next thermostat stuck popping a hole in the radiator due to over pressure, the list will just go on and on from here.
Thanks for your video. Saw your Pitt State flag. I'm a Bearcat myself. Since we have the same truck I won't hold that against you lol
That and the oil pressure sensor go out on these 5.4 engines. Some vacuum hoses and gunk gets on the air pressure sensor piece but simple two screws remove and clean with carb cleaner - cheap to fix .
The coil and injector connectors are bad about deteriorating and causing a miss fire.
( 1997 F150,5.4 automatic,4x4)
(2001 Ford F150 Lightning 5.4lL) Had a blown spark plug in #3. Replaced head. Truck started to shake around 35-40mph and up. Found they replaced the coil pack with a non oem, witch does not have same fire times. Replaced all coil packs. Had a P171, cleaned air intake and filter, no engine light so far. Now my OBD2 will not read, has power. but My truck now shakes around 40 mph and up. Does not shake when in 2nd gear. Still trouble shooting. Also had a ABS light and turn signals would not work, due to a leaky front window. Water was entering the cab running down to the fuse box under the dash. A quick kick to under the dash to vibrate any water on the wires it goes out. Any idea of the shaking at 40mph and up with no engine light or obd2 reading or a hard crank but will start problem would help alot
Terrific video, Thanks! My 2001 F150 eng 5.4 has Motor craft OEM ignition coil part# F7TU-12A366-CD are the following the same replacement F7TU-12A366-BA or F7TU-12A366-AB
Thanks in advance, Albert D.
Thanks. Are you a certified mechanic?
I am thinking of helping a friend out and buying his old F150.
It is having misfire/spark plug related issues.
Would it be worthwhile to buy it from him for a dirt cheap price? He just can't afford parts and labor at the moment.
Lastly, how much do you think an engine rebuild costs on this truck?
THANKS IN ADVANCE
It depends on alot of factors, year, condition, options, mileage, how cheap you can get it, etc. These things are super reliable, but not all that valuable unfortunately. Rather than trying to rebuild, it would likely be cheaper to just buy a reman engine. Last time I looked, you could get one for around $2800.
Our 03 expedition just shuts off randomly it restarts but it’s doing it more and more lately
I have a 2002 F-150 Kingranch with the 2v and ive had to completely rebuild the intake with new parts and my pcm getting fried after 300k miles and a lot of abuse from the previous owners. Ive already gone througu the whole fuel system and timing system.
Thank you!!! I have a lean code, and it’s the Y on passenger side. Completely broken….sigh
i have an 01, 5.4 . i keep getting missfire on cyl #3. mech said bad coil and replacedit. ran good for appx 3 weeks and bad #3 coil again. He replaced coil and ran fine for another 3 weeks, then agin missfire on # 3. He said they had a recall on the brand he was using, he put in a different coil and good for a month then same thing. he did a pressure test, no coolant in cylinder, plugs looked good. Now I have it on # 4 cyl. this seems to happen when it RAINS. The day after the rain truck runs fine ,with same coils, until next rainy day. I have taken the shroud off between windshield and hood, no clogged drain holes, ive caulked this shroud, caulked the ground screw holes in the firewall, checked the wiring harnesses for skint insulation, ive caulked the washer spouts on the hood, sprayed the water hose over truck for 30 mins, checked under hood and no visible water around the coils, or any where else. dry todat and truck runs fine????? Ive looked at the fuel control ? box above the spare tire doesnt look corroded or cracked. HELP pls
So I have a question on this engine, I have an 03 f150 with this engine, and 193000 miles. If I take the oil fill cap off while the engine is running, it almost dies. It also has developed a pretty bad misfire, and is pushing the antifreeze past the reservoir cap. Any tips?
Running rough when the oil cap is removed is pretty normal. On the coolant side, I would check for a head gasket problem, cracked intake, or leaking intake gasket.
@KonaBlueSVT thank you very much.
Ive seen where the spark plug had cut into the spark plug hole threads.after it poped out.
Thanks for the updates
I have coolant leakage coming from somewhere on my 2002 5.4l F150
I’ve got a 99 Super Duty 5.4 2v with 210k. Previous owner seems
To have taken good care of truck and power train as it’s
My daily and runs excellent.
The only thing is the motor sounds like one of those big box delivery vans/ UPS vans on acceleration. Like the fan is blowing air into radiator unusually loud. Is that normal?
I am not sure if the super duty used a different fan clutch, but on the F-150s that's a sign that your fan clutch needs replaced. I've seen it a few times.
@@KonaBlueSVT Even if it doesn’t overheat?
If you don't mind the noise, it won't cause you any problems. My 99 f-150 did the same thing, I tried 2 different brand aftermarket ones and they both did the same thing new out of the box. I bought an OEM one and it never did it again.
I have Ford f150 2003 Triton 5.4L v8 it cranks but no start codes system to lean in banks 1 and 2. codes for oxygen sensor and fuel pump circuit high. It has new fuel pump, fuel ,filter ,fuel pump relay , fuel injectors, plugs and coil packs. but is still crank no start. already spent lots of money on her but not starting any ideas
Does it have good consistent spark? Have you verified fuel spray out of the injectors?
Same thing was happening to my 04 expedition until I found the issue was the fuse/relay box had corrosion on some parts causing bad connectivity with relays. Connected fuel pump directly with a shut off/on fuse and issue solved.
Like the content boss, but may I make a suggestion?? Recommended to anyone , disconnect the negative from the battery!!!!
Always a good idea!
The misfire problem on mine (03 F250 5.4L 2v) is proving very difficult to diagnose. Changed fuel filter, did not help. Checked ECM with scanner, no codes and the O2 sensors are showing the proper voltage. Finally changed ALL the coils with brand new Edelbrock coils and new Autolite plugs. She ran great for 3 days, but now the misfire came right back. Runs rough, low power, feels like a misfire. I guess I'll have to recheck every plug and replace each coil one-by-one until I find the problem. Going to start with #4, then #8, then #7, and so on (hardest ones first). If it still has a misfire, then maybe I'm just going to replace the ECM.
Have you looked at your fuel trims when it's misfiring?
@@KonaBlueSVT Well it's misfiring all the time. The idle is decent, but you can still feel it. When you say fuel trims, you mean looking at the live data stream on the scanner?
@@KonaBlueSVT Well it's all over the place but at idle I have 4.7 on LTFTRM1 and -12.5 on LTFTRM2. At 2200 RPM I get 4.7 on LTFTRM1 and -6.3 on LTFTRM2. On deceleration Bank 2 went as high as 15.49 while Bank 1 was at 0.0.
Check your exhaust back pressure. A plugged cat could cause opposing fuel trims.if that is OK, check compression, jumped timing could also cause this.
What was the issue?
What about Ground wire corrosion and PCM failures?
Not common on these, atleast in this part of the country.
I blew the plug, but I didn't do the helicoil because I felt it was an intense job, I took it to a mechanic because it was over 116 degrees outside, and it was Cylinder fkn 8, right under the damn dash! There are a few ti es in my lifetime where I will concede.
My 01 Eddie Bauer expedition 2wd is sputtering while accelerating. it's the first one I bought so idk the whole in's and out's of it.. I did the plugs, air filter, fuel filter, cleaned the tank (didn't replace fuel pump though)... If I replace the pump and it still does that what does that mean internally? Im used to carburators I don't know fuel injection too well but I get it. Its check engine light is on btw. It runs great but it could run better. I got it for $600 from a family friend and he took care of it from what I can tell. Fluids are good, start up is good, idle is good, but I was just looking for advice on the motor and troubleshooting. This video was great BTW
Definitely check the codes first, check fuel pressure before throwing a pump at it.
@@KonaBlueSVT will do, thanks 👍
I have issues with 98. Mainly #4, I've replaced coil and boot but can't get the plug to break loose. I moved fuse block out of the way still not enough room
2 things I have had luck doing on stubborn spark plugs. The first is to perform a fuel induction service, it helps break up any carbon inside the cylinder that is holding the plug in. The 2nd is get the engine to operating temperature and then fill the spark plug well with penetrating lube, let it set for a couple days and then try to get it out.
Hey man please reach out to me I think my oil pump went bad but my oil pressure is at 0 and oil light is on no noise coming from engine no tick jus sounds like it’s running ruff please reach out seams like you have a lot of knowledge 2002 f150 v8 triton 5.4
Have you verified the oil pressure with a manual gauge?
@@KonaBlueSVT no but I did change the oil sensor and change the oil
I would start by manually checking the oil pressure to make sure you don't just have a dead wire from your sensor. If you truly had no oil pressure it should be making some noise.
Just bought a 2000 e350 5.4 for 500 bucks from a university in OH has 167,xxx on the dash starts runs ands drives no check engine but gives a ticking sound when I hit the gas. Not even sure where it’s coming from. Plan on replacing all plugs and coils hoping to get 150k miles from it
Good chance it's an exhaust leak.
I have a 1997 f15@ and I floored it and after I let go of the gas the radio and gages started to glitch out and turn off and on then the motor turned off what should I do
Ok good video what kind coil should I get heavy-duty ones
I would go with the OEM coils. The aftermarket ones are hit and miss.
I am dealing with a coolant leak into the cab. I found a puddle on the floor of the driver side inside the truck. There is a smell in the air conditioning but hot air and cold seem to work ok. There is also a bit of fog in the AC when it is on. I’m thinking it could be the heater core but I’m not sure. Truck is a 2002 5.4 Supercrew fx4
Very likely the heater core
@@KonaBlueSVT Thank you. We'll be driving it this way for a bit until I save enough to get it fixed. Or I might try to just buy the part and do the scary job myself. I'm thinking about it.
Good Luck!
@@KonaBlueSVT I replaced the heater core last fall on my 2001 F150 5.4L 2 valve. You need to be confident enough to remove the entire dash. Watch the available videos, several times. There are different tips on different videos. the professionals who are doing it repeatedly can get it out in 15-20 minutes, but they KNOW where all the difficult bolts are, and how to get to them. I took about two hours to get mine out, referring back to the video several times. I had chopped off the hoses in the engine compartment and bypassed the heater core last spring, knowing that in Texas I wouldn't need heat until late fall fall. So it stopped the leak until I had time to take it apart and replace the core. I was 67 at the time, not a professional mechanic, but I have done a lot of car repairs in my time. Then i replaced the radiator, the intake manifold, drilled out and tapped two additional spark plugs that blew out, and now this week I have to replace the timing chains and tensioners, oil pump and valve ccover and timing cover gaskets and I may have to drop the oil pan as well. 22 yr old ride w/313,000 +miles. Can't complain too much,
Heater core
How much $$ to fix a blown plug & add the helicoil ?
Probably around $500 at an independent shop.
I have a 2003 expedition 160k miles. been getting misfire on cylinder 1 that comes and goes. Codes are p0301 and p0316. I Replaced plugs and coils, swapped out injectors and it went away and today it came back for like 2 minutes and then went away. Check engine didn't even come on I felt it misire when i started it checked on my scanner and it was back. Drove it and now it feels fine again. Took out the plug and its dry no coolant, looks super clean as it's new. No milkshake in the oil as I did an oil change and oil looks brand new still. Don't know what else it could be. Last time I got misfire was about a week ago.
Did you swap injectors from cylinder to cylinder, or replace them?
@@KonaBlueSVT swapped them from cylinder to cylinder
@KonaBlueSVT checked this morning and misfire is gone even from the scanner p0301 but I still have p0316. I am having a rough start as it sounds like the starter might be going out or maybe the crank position sensor. Sometimes the starter just spins. But after I start it, it sounds really good and driving it feels great has good power and is super smooth and quiet. Cant figure out the problem. Gonna add some marvel mystery into the spark plug hole see if it clean anything up in there that could be causing it to misfire. Gonna go check to see if the starter is bad because it sounds pretty bad when starting. Hoping the flywheel is fine and the teeth aren't grinded down.
@KonaBlueSVT last night when I was checking everything again I took out the spark plug and it was clean and looked good. I did notice my coolant was a bit low and got somewhat worried but as I checked I noticed dried up coolant on passenger side coils. Seemed to be coming from the heater control valve so I ordered a new one and im going to replace it. I'm wondering if possibly some coolant got into cylinder 3 or 4 and caused a little misfire to occur. I have heard of people having a misfire on cylinder 1 reading but replace a spark plug or coil for another cylinder and it fixes the problem. Could it be a faulty ECU reading?
If you moved the injector and the po301 didn't come back, it could be that injector. I would run a can of BG 44k through it and see how it does.
I have a 2003 F150 Lariat super cab. Sometimes it won't start. The key chip indicator flashes instead of coming in and staying on steady. The motor spins but that's all. Using the command start works. Is there a connection problem with the chip reader? Can this be changed out? I assume that the command starter bypasses the chip reader to allow starting without the key. Is it possible to bypass the chip to cure the problem permanently? Sometimes these safety/ helpful ideas by Engineers drive me draft! Lol
Do you have another key to try? The security light should flash rapidly for 60 seconds, then it will flash a 2 digit code. This may give you a place to start.
@@KonaBlueSVT Thank you. What happened was that a previous owner put in after market interior lights. They wired it upto the ignition system. When the lights shorted out. So did the ignition system. So the shop that I put it into took out the after market lighting but also disabled the command start. I took it back in after the ignition wouldn't work. They hooked it up but after a couple of trips it again has security chip connection malfunctions. My next chance is with the shop that put in the command start. I think that it is a programming problem. Because a command start has to bypass the chip to enable the motor to start without a key in the ignition. I hope that this works. I have a back up key from a lock shop. The original and the back up key have the same issues. So it is chip connectivity problem. I think.
I did put the Ford code reader on. It read codes 1000 and 1260. I haven't hot a hand book so I haven't found out what they identify.
how much would it cost to have a mechanic fix a blown sparkplug?
Depends on the shop, I've seen anywhere from 400-600.
01 Expedition 255,000. Reg oil/filt change. Not much else.. Still good. How many miles can I hope for?
I've seen lots between 300,000 & 400,000 !
Repeated misfires in cylinder 3. Cannot figure this out. Changed all coils plugs and an injector. Ran perfect for months. Then intermittently cylinder 3 again starts to misfire. Now it’s doing it all the time. I’m extremely frustrated with this. I’ve played musical coils tested injector connectors for voltage all good. Why’s this keep happening?
What brand coils did you buy? Have you checked fuel trims when it's happening?
@@KonaBlueSVT Haven’t checked fuel trim thanks for the tip. Coils were TRQ’s. I moved them around same problem. I’m getting power at the injector when engines running. I’m going to check again to see if it pulses with a better test light.
Looking at a 2005 F250 with the 5.4 but I don't know how to tell if a 2v or 3v engine from photos. Looked up the VIN on Autocheck and it just said "5.4 V8 SMPI"
I did this video to help determine the difference- ua-cam.com/video/-142udbX8ZE/v-deo.html
That one will be a 3v.
Mine keep showing bank 5 and 8 went light did come on, getting the light to come on is all most impossible
Hey wondering how your gas mileage was in the 5.4 f150 I recently bought one just trying to base it off of similar trucks mine is the 03 f150 7700 with the beefer 7 lug rims an I believe on f250 frame
My 03 does 17 on the highway on a good day. It's got 3.55 gears. My 99 with 3.73 gears never did better than 15.
also exhaust manifold bolts breaking Thanx
Good tip!
I have 485k on a 2003 expedition is it cheaper to swap with another motor or rebuild.
Swap
Good info! Does the 5.4 GT500 share the block as this one?
No, completely different. The 11 and newer gt500 are aluminum blocks.
@@KonaBlueSVT What about 07-10?
I believe they were the same block as the 3v 5.4. The 2v was similar, but not identical.
@@KonaBlueSVT ok, thanks man!
What years was the spark plug problems with it blowing out ?
I believe it was mid year 2002 that got the updated heads.
2002 5.4, blew the rear plug passenger side, can t even see the hole, is it worth fixing 200,000 miles
If it's been maintained well, yes. You have another 100k easily.
I have a 2003 f150 5.4 triton heratage an its spuing oil an ovee heating oils brand new an all over my block (street ).I replace the thermastate bot shur whats up at all.
Someone plz help I have a 1998 f150 5.4 and I've replaced radiator cap,radiator,water pump,and thermostat and it still blows coolant from the cap idk what else to do besides pour gas on it and watch it burn
Have you checked it for a head gasket problem?
@@KonaBlueSVT checking it next was hoping that wasn't the problem but it seems to be the problem
Try a different brand radiator cap the one you replaced could be defective.
About the spark plugs
It’s in all models?
Or just on that year?
I believe they fixed it in late 02.
hello I am French and I have a 1998 expedition, I have a code p304 with p171 and 174 it can also come from the cylinder 4 coil? THANKS
Fix the misfire code 1st. Switch cylinder 4 coil with another cylinder and see if the misfire moves with the coil or stays with cylinder 4.
I need some advice here. I have found one with 373,000 miles, should I buy it?
That's a lot of miles for anything, it's a dice roll. It could go another 100k, or it might be at the end of its road. How's the maintenance been? How's the rest of the truck holding out?
@@KonaBlueSVT He said it runs and drives. The body and frame are in perfect condition
Has the transmission been replaced? steering/suspension rebuilt? How often has the oil, coolant, and all the other fluids been changed?
Question! What about a clogged vent between the fire wall and the windshield? Will that cause it to misfire to?
I am not sure what you are referring to?
@@KonaBlueSVT the vent that's up by the wiper blades
That shouldn't have anything to do with runability. That is your fresh air for the climate control.
Just bought mine and everything was fine. Now I have a stupid knock at higher rpms and no load. Apparently that's a 5.4l issue too. Super annoyed.
I have a 1998 Ford F-250 with the 5.4 triton. It has an issue with the engine shutting off when I stop at a red light. It has no idle problems, and is throwing no codes, the engine just shuts off all of a sudden. Any idea what could be causing that? Thanks.
Low on trans fluid
Fill the radiator with pepsi
I had a bad idle it would bounce on my 99 f150, I switched my spark plugs about 2 -3 months ago. I don’t drive it much. I switch the EGR valve pressure sensor it calmed it down. But I ordered the egr valve to which came in later in the week. Once I installed it and turn the truck on I felt like a pressure was released while turning the truck on now When I accelerate I hear a hissing sound. Idk what it could be anyone know? Or have an idea. The truck sit most of the time vacuum lines all looked fine switched mainly all of them.
Bring back the 2 valve 5.4! Got 239,000 on mine. Do regular maintenance and also preventive maintenance
I need help. I have a 2001 f150 5.4 litre Tritan V8. I got a code 307 and changed plug and coil on cylinder 7. Then I got code for EGR sensor. Now I am getting two codes. 307 and 174. Need advice please. I have good power but real rough idle and hesitation.
Have you checked the fuel trim? I would look at the PCV hoses to check for a vacuum leak.
@@KonaBlueSVT thanks appreciate it. Will do.