Great video. I've done this a few times before and I have an additional bit of advice. The 5.4l engine came in many different versions - 2v,3v,4v and different variants of each of those. I do know that my 2006 3v came with the black boot and it's a different length than the brown boot. If yours came with a black boot you should replace with same. I know u did this three years ago, but if anyone is watching and about to do this procedure they might find it useful. You did say that you got it from the dealership so I would hope they got it right, but they do make mistakes too. When I've ordered aftermarket ones online, some manufacturers actually list the boot colors too as another way to verify. Anyway, thanks and keep up the great videos
Great video. I just dropped a ridiculous amount of money at the dealer to change the plugs in my 06. they charged me 150 to replace the #3 COP. Now that i have new plugs, i'm just going to replace all the COP's myself. Thank you.
Live and learn, in 1983 I was in line at the cashier at the chevy dealer the girl in front of me had a bill for 180$ for a exhaust manifold replacement on a new car they told her the warranty does not cover this repair and she paid the bill ! I learned ealry research and do your own repairs for nearly nothing!
Just a little bit of info for everyone . their are 3 generations of the 5.4l At 12:31 when he talks about the boot size being shorter/longer depends on what gen 5.4l you have. These are coils from 2 different gen 5.4's The easiest way to make sure you get the correct coils is the boots came in two different colors therefor two different lengths and voltage output. Your boot will be Brown or Black Get the correct coil. Just a tip to spare someone a headache. Not all 5.4 are the same.Thanks for the video nice detail on a coil change. PS: don't loose the 7mm bolt holding the coil down. These are a ford only thread you wont have a replacement in your bucket of bolts. When you order one from Ford well Mine was $21 for 1........Just saying.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy No Problem I love this motor I have a 97 f150 xlt !st year of 5.4l and a2010 F150 fx4 last year of 5.4l I know this motor in and out. If you would like a few pointers I learned over the years about the 5.4 only. Let me know there a a few upgrades that you will actually see/feel difference but most 5.4l upgrades the gains are minimal they may look cool but when tested. Performance is minute if any at all. Not to say bling is bad. But if purchasing aftermarket upgrades expecting performance unless throwing a Roush supercharger. "one of my dream builds" There only a few I'd spend $ on. This advice is my opinion only based on 1st hand trial and error thing that have met or beat expectation and thing I wasted $$$$ on. Just let me know. Have a good one.
The other thing to mention is that the intech 5.4l doesn't use a screw to secure the COP's - at least not the older 32valve - they are secured by a cover for all 4 on the side... Ford made something so easy so hard... thanks ford lol - Im dreading doing it, but at 160K they all need to be done - One tip - only use MOTORCRAFT plugs... I heard the early tritons had problems with plugs breaking off in the head... OMG what I nightmare that would be!
@@josephbagio7930 You have to - it's all one unit - Stupid not to do both and all 8 if you get the covers off and are in there anyways - mine runs like new again now!
My 1997 E350 5.4l with 178000 miles on it was misfiring on minor acceleration. It would stumble, unless I almost floored it. I got a pack of 8 coils on eBay with a 5 year warranty for $50.00 total. It was a bear to change the coils on that van. Yet, it did solve the problem! I was stoked that for less than half a C note, my old beater was markedly running better. Thanks for the video.
2007 ford f150 has 206000 miles it also stumbles at minor acceleration and it makes this nasty loud rattling,tapping noise and it shakes so bad, it fells like it's gonna fall apart. It started doing this about onth ago while going up a hill. Did yours shake and make noises? Thanks I'm desperate to get this truck back on track.
@@j.carlos146 my truck didn’t shake or make rattling noises, it just struggled to run strong and consistently. You might have an issue with some aspect of timing, either ignition or camshaft.
@@j.carlos146 same here on my 04.f150- Put all 8 motorcraft coils on -still missing-scanner reads missing on primary coil A and E and secondary coil B and H??? Idk. I'm ready to pull what hair i have left OUT
8 coil packs for $50 dollars equates to Chinese knock off parts and not genuine Motorcraft replacements. These parts are everywhere on Ebay and now Amazon. There are videos on You Tube to help spot the fakes and save ones self from a lot of grief. If your $50 eight pack lasts, consider yourself very fortunate.
Great youtute (youtubetutorial), I am always blown away when I read comments hear or on forums, So many people think the dealership is the answer to their problems, You may as well get a handful of money, get in your car/truck, get on the freeway, roll your window down and throw that money out the window. All you need to do is take a look at the building and the employees at any dealership, Then ask yourself how much money it would take to make payroll and open the doors to that building everyday?, You will then realize dealerships HAVE to gouge their customers, that is the only way they can afford the overhead and stay in business. So...If your first move is the dealership? Your second move should be a mental institution!
I dropped a cylinder on my Crown Vic. It lost power and stuttered all the way home. CEL came on. Ticket writer at the dealership would have a field day with this one. Instead, I pulled a coil at the junk yard. Tested it with a DVM (not fool proof but better than nothing). Problem fixed for $21.
Good description and video. I've got to do the #1 coil on my Ford Five Hundred and it's one of the ones underneath the intake manifold on a transverse V-6, so it's a little challenging to get to. I'm going to swap it with the #2 coil next to it just to test it also. I did this with my Jaguar XJ6 several times and only needed to replace coil twice in 360,000 miles. They don't necessarily fail one after another like some people suggest. Wish this car was a easy to get to as the Jaguar though.
That’s why I like my edge programmer. It shows me which cylinder. It does a diagnostic test for you.Been running a custom tune on my truck for 7 years now.Changed everything to MSD like my race cars.towing package setting is awesome pulling my car hauler.No problems.Plug it up to your laptop download the upgrades.
The evo? Tells you how spark is on each cylinder ? I have a 06 and just messed with the evo for a while I have original coils on new plugs at 92k miles Thinking I should do new coils
@@joesmith-fi1sx Yes it shows the codeAnd tells you on which cylinder has a misfire primary/secondary msd 8243 coils. The multimeter showed coil was good new platinum plugs. Check the cylinder with my ridgid Ca-25 everything good. Pulled the coil and spark while running. Boot had a microscopic crack. Only 50,000 miles on coils. Can upgrade with downloading tunes
Have a Ford 500 Limited with the Duratec V-6. 4, 5 and 6 are right in front. 1, 2 and 3 in the back you can't even see. Intake removal, etc, etc. A completely different job. Checked the front 3 and they were fine. That figures, right? I'll end up cleaning the injectors, changing plugs and replacing all the coil packs. Don't want to be doing this again in 6 months. The car has been meticulously maintained. Never missed an oil change and never had a problem with it. Thanks for the video.
Tony? I did it! I replaced #2 coil pack. (the one my long time mechanic should have replaced) I cleared the codes. They never came back after many key cycles. However!!!!! My 03 expedition still "bucks" a little going up grades. I think another coil is misfiring, but not enough to throw a code. The electrical connection gave me the biggest headache. I could not squeeze hard enough to release. I gently used pliers! I thought the coil came out from the plug "too easy". Im used to standard plug wires "clicking" to connect and "popping" off when removed. The same feeling when putting on new coil. No click.....no sound.... Not sure if it connected correctly in blind plug hole. Took me about 10 minutes. The professionals charged me $76 and changed the wrong coil pack (throwing away a good coil). And I brought them the coil! They claimed it took 45 minutes to swap coils on cylinder #1. Bull*hit! That's the easiest one to change. I need to diagnose and repair 4 wheel drive (not communicating). Do you have a video for that?
Hello! I do not have a 4x4 video for your particular vehicle but it’s likely the switch itself or the actuator on the transfer case. As far as the coil goes, they just sit on top of the spark plug, there will not be any click or anything like you’re used to on older cars where the wire clips directly to to spark plug. If it’s still bucking, my guess is either bad spark plugs or another bad coil. Not sure what engine you have, but this 5.4 triton was bucking even after this coil replacement and I ended up doing all 8 spark plugs which fixed it.
@@teddydabear242 Hey go for it man, throw all the comments you want out here haha. I can’t promise I’ll be super helpful on the specific topics since I work on such a broad range of vehicles, but I’ll do my best!
I was told to just replace them all, so I ordered a set of 8 trq’s from 1a auto for $125. Last time I changed a 2 bad coils at 100k miles and they were $60 each coil for aftermarket. I usually only replace what’s bad but figured for the price I would replace them all.
The OEM has coils are expensive and is what everybody recommends that’s why people don’t usually do all of them even though it makes me feel better lol
U can reset the engine light by turning the key to the on position ....3 times...insert key..turn key to start position without starting it ...wait each time for bells whistles to stop........3 times repeat...neat little trick....
Nice trick. Another trick is to read the DTC using Gage Engineering mode. Hold down the trip reset button on the instrument cluster and turn ignition on without engine start. When display says "Gage", release the button and it will enter Gage Test mode and test all the dials. When complete, you can then use the button to toggle through the messages until you get to DTC. I wish I knew what the data displays mean or how useful the DTC readout is. This works on my 08 Crown Vic. I've read this being done with other Ford models. Now that I know the three key turn trick clears DTC codes, it is possible to do emergency repairs without a scanner or code reader.
I have a ford truck with 240,000 miles , every so often you will get a misfire, and throw no code. Going up a hill you will feel it chug with low power, or decelerating you will feel the drivetrain pulsing, you will have a bad idle and power loss. The amount of labor involved to change 1 coil and plug with the possibility of doing this 7 more times as each fails makes it worth it to do it once and do all 8. If one fails the other 7 will fail very soon. The cheapest and best route is to go to JEGS and buy all 8 JEGS brand coil packs for `130$ motorcraft plugs are also very cheap to buy. When you install all 8 you have 8 new coils firing the same and the engine will run smooth and you wont have to do this same repair for a few years . The JEGS coil packs are better than the motorcraft coils for 1/3rd the price.
I going to say something that I'm sure many of you will laugh like hell and say bull crap. But here goes, when you get a reading on your checker that coils are operating at, say 80%, there's far better and cheaper fix. Clean the frigging complete throttle body system before you buy any coils. Dealerships will not tell you this. However is the code is the coil pack then change it. Got 318,000 miles on my 2003 Expedition 5.4, Eddie Bauer an have only replace one coil at a time, just the one that needed. Since I bought the Expedition, I have replace only had to replace five coil packs in total. Be sure to understand what may have caused the coil pack to go bad. Example #4 could go bad because of anti freeze leaking form that little by pass hose, hanging over #4. Replacing number 4 and 8 are a real pain in the but.
I also have a 05 f150 with 5.4 and it has 225,000 miles, my truck does the same thing it show's no code and the service light does not come on but when its under load like going up hill in high gear you feel a chug or miss every once and a while .If I let up on the gas a little it stops,when I change plugs it stops this problem, I have only had one coil go bad since the truck was new.RockAuto has good coils for the best price.
Absolutely helpful! I have a 2002 f-150 that i have had to change CP's so many times, And i have a 1999 f-150 w/over 300k & have not change any CP's in it!! A.J.S.U.K. i have a hearing problem but you were so clear & plain even i could understand you , lol
You Sir did a very good job explaining yourself. About a C+ on camera work. I didn't have to take motion sickness pills to watch this video. Pretty good job editing. Your next video have somebody else film it and also use a tripod for stability for mono pod
Haha. Yeah, with my schedule, it's not easy to find a camera man. I did recently get a DJI Osmo gimbal to help smooth things out a bit and I'll be getting a few tripods and go pros in the future.
Tony, your comparison of the old coil to the new one with the longer spring sticking out is probably because of years being compressed plus the heat relaxed the tension, therefore making it shorter
Yeah the back ones definitely are not fun lol. It’s just a space issue though, same steps as all the other ones. Just going to take more time and patience.
This isn't an issue on gen 11 5.4s. I guess Ford saw their design flaw and reconfigured the engine bay for more room .Kinda late for a company that's been around for a over a century and they can't even figure out how to keep sp plugs from blowing out the head. F.IX O.R R.EPAIR D.AILY!!?
Very good. I always though position of componants was from your position in drivers seat. Had 307 code replaced coil not fixed. Guess i did # 2. Swap tomorrow
Here is hopefully a helpful comment for anyone that is changing the plugs on the Intech 5.4L version - the factory plugs have less threads than the newer ones - when I pulled them, I thought I bought the wrong replacements but they are the correct ones... I guess Ford changed it so the plug would have more "meat" or maybe to fit more things, etc... not sure but it's what they went to now... I know this was about coils, but in my opinion it's silly to only do the COP's on these without also replacing the plugs just my opinion.
I have a misfire on #8... I changed out the plugs on the entire side of 4-8 & Still have the misfire.... My ford tech buddy then tells me that I changed out 1-4 !!! What a funny guy he is... at least I got #8 done. All. plugs 1-4 weren't hardly hand tight....
Yeah haha, Ford numbers their cylinders weird. I believe cylinder 1 is the front passenger side and then as you go towards the rear, it’s cylinder 2, 3, 4. Then 5-8 are on the drivers side bank. May be a coil issue if you’re still having problems after plugs.
Can you check primary resistance by getting an old female clip from junk yard, stripping the wires then substituting it onto your existing coils one at a time and checking with multimeter. Seems this would be helpful for rearmost ones.
This video is a little old but I thought I'd ask a question. maybe you can throw out an idea. I have a 2002 Ford Harley f150. Comes with a 5.4 supercharged motor. At 24,000 miles Ford replaced the motor with a brand new factory long block which included their new 7 thread heads. Long story short is that within roughly 20,000 additional miles the truck developed a slight miss. It never threw a code and the truck was still very drive able. I finally decided to contact my local Ford dealership to see what they thought the problem might be. Without a code showing they said it would be hard to diagnose. Seems the idiot light is also for them. They told me that when the new motor wen't in the original spark plugs and coil packs were used. They recommended that I should change them. I agreed to do so. So $1,500 later my wife picks up the truck and puts it in the driveway. When I got home I went out to start the truck. When I do it's barely running and the engine light goes on. The next day I contact Ford to ask if they crossed the wires. They told me to check the pick up receipt and look at the notations. I do and it claims my #4 cylinder is dead and I need a new motor. I won't get into the furious comments I replied to them with. Phones were hung up and the truck has sat ever since. I tried to put a code reader on the truck but I can't get it to bring anything back up. I also can't get the truck to run well enough to make it throw the code again. Any thoughts on this one?
Ugh. Sorry to hear about the struggle. I think at this point, your best bet is to buy or rent a compression tester. Remove 1 spark plug and check for compression 1 cylinder at a time. This should let you know if you have damaged pistons or valves. If the compression check turns out good, you’re probably looking at fuel or electrical. I know the “fuel pump drivers” on the F150 is notorious for going out.
I may be late but your problem sounds like the fpdm.fuel pump driver module.these trucks fuel pressure at all vacuum controlled make sure you have no vacuum leaks.
Hey thanks man I got the engine light driving a four hour trip, put scanner and it gave me code p0354 primary coil. parked it for a week and it won’t turn on going to change coil soon will it turn on ?
@@ramone.1021 Turn on? You mean the truck won’t start? Is it not even trying to crank? Because if that’s the case then you probably have a bad starter or dead battery. If it cranks but won’t start, then maybe the coil will fix it, but if it ran before, it may be something new that is the issue.
@@ramone.1021 It’s going to be something else then not the coil if it’s not even crying to crank. Would need to check for power down at the starter while someone else tries to start it to see if starter is getting power
These coils have a life expectancy of 90,000 miles was at 90,000 changed my plugs yea twice in never one broke 07 f150 . One a month failed after 2 changed them all 2 years later no problem. These things are like popcorn put 8 kernels in the kettle you hear 1 or 2 pop at the same time but when its all done all 8 are done the kettle is at maximum heat at 100,000.
Jason joncas I have 270,000 on my 07 F150 replaced spark plugs 3 times, just now starting to change coils. Probably should of replaced coils a few miles ago..
I would have, but I didn’t have access to the correct specifications, so I’d just have to compare them to each other which doesn’t help much if there’s several coils that are bad.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy Here is the best kept secret about the south, North Va. Beach, it never gets hot because of the on shore breeze from the Chesapeake bay. I spend two hours a day everyday walking on the beach in the summer I walk in the evening though because of my fair skin.
Hey Tony, thank you for doing this video!!! I only have a $50 Topdon but it does tell me that there is a cylinder 1 misfire. My engine light is on and I can feel a little lumpiness in the engine. I found needing more power while climbing up a grade the the engine light flashes, the lumpiness gets worse. When the call for power ends the engine goes back to the slight lumpiness and the engine light stops flashing and goes back to constant on. WITH ALL THIS SAID......... do coils vary their output based on demand?? Also, do coils get weak or do they just totally crap the bed?? Buying 4 new OEM Motorcraft coils and plugs as we speak. 180K miles, it's time. 2009 Escape 2.5L. Thanks again!!!
Coils should always apply the same energy each time they fire as far as I’m aware. Usually they just stop working all together, or are making an intermittent connection with the spark plug which could also cause a sputtering. As long as that cylinder 1 coil is getting hood power and ground, the spark plug and coil should fix it.
I was having the lumpiness in 5th gear only. Then after letting someone look it started under load as early as second gear. Me and my neighbor tinkered with it and found the connection right to the coil was not completely clipped…so he somehow got them to actually click in…all the lower gear lumpiness gone…fast forward 3 days I have two coils replaced now we have lumpiness and flashing cel under extreme load… I’m fkkn lost atm
@@kevinhuguet9675 Well that blows. Kind of need something to act up to know where to go haha. This truck was kinda the same thing though. It took quite some time of it running like crap before it threw a light. I ended up replacing all the spark plugs and a few of them were cracked. You may have that issue as well, but these plugs can be a major pain to replace. They’re notorious for breaking off.
Chuck Urgitus, I have the same thing going on. Although after changing the coil packs, it doesn't misfire as much. But it still does, a little bit. I've considered that it might be the spark plug wire, but I can't seem to find anything definitive to support this. You got any ideas??
Thanks for the vid. DANG! Ya'll been mudding in that thing right? I get nervous when working around plug wells with too much crud that might fall in there.
Good video. I have a 2000 Lincoln LS V8 I changed out all 8 spark plugs cause I have a misfire. It ran well for about a good week and ended up with the misfire again. So now im going to change all 8 coils but any way by any chance did you put connector grease on those coils you replaced?
I didn’t but typically a bit of electrical grease on the end of the coil that contacts the spark plug won’t hurt anything. I don’t really mess with adding any to the actual electrical connector.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy okay and another thing this car has been sitting for about a good 2-3 years without running. When took the right side of the coils out the # 6-8 coils have like this brownish liquid on the coil. Would you happen to know what that is?
Probably just some old dielectric grease. Doesn’t hurt anything so long as the metal coil can still contact the spark plug. If the car has been sitting that long, I would also see if there’s a fuel filter you can change.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy alright that was going to be my next solution the fuel filter. But hey Thanks Tony I appreciate the help I'll let you know if there's no more misfire
i have a 4 cylinder and the cylinder 3 stop working and left me stranded I have a scanner and that's what the scanner said and it said don't drive and so we had it towed hopefully if I change all the coils and spark plugs maybe that will do the trick I hope I have a 2010 Hyundai Tucson just rolled over 90000 miles the light didn't come on until it started choking what do you think
A lot of things could cause a misfire. Low compression, bad plugs, coils, or wires, lack of fuel supply, etc. Does the car start at all? I would also check your oil level to make sure the engine didn’t go dry and starve for oil. If that looks good, plugs and wires are cheap enough to replace that I would probably do that next.
On the 2008 F-150's is when Ford decided to redesign the spark plugs. When they did that, they switched to the "brown" colored boot that had the new design plug. All other F-150's from 2004 until about September/October build date time frame in 2008 had old design plugs that would seize and snap in the head when you would try to remove them. They also had the "black" boots on those. That's how you know if you have the newer or older design plugs. The newer plugs look more like a regular spark plug whereas the older plugs have that ground shield on them.
Hello Tony i bought a new 2007 F 150 5.4 only owner and driver, and i use it rarely. I do run it often. I only use Chevron gas. This truck only has 59K The last few months it seems to missfire??? It does it at higher speeds or uphills. No check engine light on. this truck has been babbyed. I had the truck serviced at the dealer at 50K all was done except the fuel filter... The dealer wants around $800 to change the coils if that is even what it is? I'm now more on a budget and my neighbor the weekend mechanic said hed do it. The real motorcraft seem to run $60 each. Plugs i think run $12 each. Should i do all of them as he suggested, and should i guess??? Thanks for on-line info Mark retired
Had the exact same symptoms on an ‘06 that was my ex’s and it ended up being a combination of 2 things. The spark plugs were cracked and causing misfire under load, but wouldn’t throw an engine light. Then after that it was having issues with the torque converter staying locked up so I changed the solenoid for that. I would start with plugs and inspect the coils for any cracks or damage while doing the plugs. But be.m careful, the plugs on these engines are notorious for breaking upon removal.
Sorry to be so off topic but does anyone know a method to log back into an Instagram account? I somehow lost my password. I love any tricks you can offer me.
@Titus Tyson thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and I'm in the hacking process atm. Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
So if i replace all the plugs in my '00 5.4 litre and it still runs crappy can I remove one coil at a time and notice if there's any appreciable difference until no noticable depreciation in engine performance ...? Would this be ok to do?
I have an issue where no spark is getting transferred to all 4 spark plugs on an 07 ford escape yet no check engine codes. Im not sure where to look now. Maybe just replace coil packs first?
That’s very strange if none of the 4 are getting spark. I would get one of the coil on plug testers that you hold on top of the coil and it lights up if the coil is getting power. If you’re getting power to the coil but no spark then the coil is likely bad but I have a hard time believing that all 4 went out at the same time. If you’re not getting power to the coils then I would verify good battery connection. The engine ECU likely supplies power to the coils so there could be an issues there as well but I always start with the basics.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy I thought it was strange too. However, I pulled each spark plug out and tested individually by turning the engine over and touching it to the frame or metal and got nothing. I also found it hard to believe all four went out at the same time as well. I had the problem after a -7° degree night. Is there a way to test the two wires that go in the coil for power? I have a multi meter, maybe just check volts when I'm cranking the engine?
Well get this, I just went outside and it fired up! Something got frozen I guess and thawed out this morning. Thanks for replying and helping out buddy.
...to clear a code on my truck, all I do is disconnect the negative cable of the battery and let it off for about three to five minutes...works ok for me all the time...I do have a scanner... prefer cable off...
I have a 2006 Ford Expedition. I just had all 8 spark plugs changed and put in a new coil. Cylinder 6 was the misfire and the code was P0353 - ignition coil C primary/secondary unit. The code came right back on and it's still running rocky during acceleration. I unplugged and plugged back in. Any thoughts or advice?
Switch the suspected bad coil to a different cylinder then clear codes. If the code comes back for the same cylinder, you know it’s not the coil, and if the code follows to the cylinder you moved that coil to, you know it’s the coil. Also double check the cylinder layout. Ford is usually weird and their “bank 1” is the passenger side as opposed to chevy and most others where bank 1 is drivers side. I believe for also numbers them in numerical order vs firing order.
You have to depress the tab on the bottom side of the connector at the same time you're trying to unplug the connector. Wiggling while you pull usually helps because dirt and other debris gets in there and makes it harder to disconnect. It also helps sometimes to actually push the connector ON, then depress the retainer tab and try to unplug it. If there's any tension on the retainer tab, it won't release when you depress it. Last option would be to use a small pick or screwdriver to wedge under the retainer tab and then you can focus on wiggling and pulling on the connector.
You mean disconnected the battery and then touching the ground and power cables together? Could try it. Or even just disconnecting the battery might work. Some vehicles that works and some it doesn’t. Worth a shot!
What if I dont have any codes but have similar issue? Also I have an 06 colorado plugs are underneath a breather box and when the box is disconnected truck only runs for a second (not long enough for me to test coils lol
Unfortunately I’m not familiar with Colorado’s, never had to work on one surprisingly lol. It could be many things including spark plugs or coil. Doesn’t always throw a code for stuff like that but like I said there’s many possible causes.
good luck if you change the plugs.... I have a F150 5.4 2005. and a explorer 4.6 2007. out of 16 plugs 14 out of 16 broke off... what a pain in the ass... a 3 day tune up...
Wayne Garrison pull your coil pack off, vacuum or blow out the plug tubes with compressed air to remove any dirt or debris. Spray the tube with a shot of PB Blaster or any penetration oil. Let it set overnight and the next day, those puppy will slide right out. Haven't broke a plug off in 2-3 years.
2004-late 2007 3 valves have this issue...2 piece plug welded shell plug was a idiotic idea- try and remove normally, they will snap- read the TSBs. warm engine, crack loose, pour carb cleaner arond threads, let sit, back and forth at not over 30 ftlb as long as it takes...crunching/creaking/gaining 1/16 of a turn each reversal... got all out of my 06 mustang at >90k miles, but DID use the OTCcollet/support tool that actually also grips the tip, gives a tiny bit more torque-ability by helping turn the center too... thankfully didnt need the Lisle extractor(bought both expecting the worst). go slow, they can come out. if you ge a Lisle extractor, be sure it has three or four marking grooves in the shell- earlier ones with one or two groove markings were known to snap off the extractor in the plug...pulling a head off to remove that would really be upsetting!
@Biana Doubt those though were still one piece- the problem the 2 valves had was there were only three threads, and they would pretty easily strip, or work loose/blow the threads out of the heads... sad how two sequential designs had something as simple as spark plug hole coulda been so screwed up... but the three valve I swear was a planned obsolescence item- they never get swapped till out of warranty, and 'normal' removal is prettymuch guaranteed to twist off the stupid welded shell. really all these shoulda been a recall- there were so many 5.4/4.6 2 valves that had blow out issues, and probably 3/4 of the three valves ran into twist-offs... pretty pathetic how ford hid behind TSBs on both issues :(
Trouble code showed misfire on #2 cylinder. So they put a new coil pack on #1. Yesssssss that will definately fix #2 misfire. NOT! When confronted about this glaring mistake? They got huffy and hung up the phone.
Do negative numbers mean misfiring? So ideally you would've replaced the coil pack on #8 also? What are the numbers a measurement of? Thanks for the vid!
I wouldn’t worry about a negative number so much as a number that it way off from the other numbers. The -33 on cylinder 1 was definitely the outlier. #8 may have been low due to trying to compensate for #1 for all we know. These numbers are basically just calculated contribution of that cylinder, and the higher the number, the better it is.
I need help, what happens if the screw holes for the fuel injectors are broken on the valve cover for a 2005 f250 V10, the injectors are just sitting there without anything holding it down the valve cover, it’s misfiring and I’ve done the tune up 2 times in less than 6 months trying to fix the problem because the way it was running was terrible the whole truck has been shaking pretty bad and I can heard the piston misfiring from the exhaust, the code comes out to bad fuel injectors but i think It might be the spark plugs what should i do?
So the holes for the bolts that hold down the fuel rail are stripped out? I assume that’s the intake manifold that the bolts thread in to. If there’s still material there, you can try to drill and tap it for a slightly bigger bolt. Otherwise the intake manifold would need to be replaced.
Tony The Truck Guy So if the ignition coils are just sitting on top of the spark plug but they are loose and nothing is holding it snug, for 3 of my cylinders could that be causing the misfiring
Oooookoo. That I’m not sure then. Didn’t they replace the 5.4 with the 5.0 in 2011? I thought you could only get the 5.4 in 2012 and newer if it’s a F-250 or higher. I guess I’m not positive on that one, but when I just did a google search for “5.4 triton fuel pressure”, I found multiple places saying 35 +/- 5.
New plugs new coil packs new injectors new fuel rail. Still has a miss and popping through exhaust. compression is even across cylinders on cranking. Any ideas?
I usually don’t mess with them unless it starts throwing codes for misfire. I can’t remember how much they cost but I do have them in the video description.
Correct it’s not a perfect method but it’s your best shot with not much knowledge and just renting a scan tool. It took a while for this truck to finally throw an engine light. It also had bad spark plugs though.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy My 2004 Triton 4.6 runs fine except after a good rain or at highway speed under a slight load, so I'm sure it is a "weak" spark coil. Just need to know which one.
Yeah in addition to the bad coil, this truck also was bucking and shuttering in overdrive under light load conditions like a small hill but wasn’t throwing a light. That was fixed after doing all 8 plugs.
Update. My valve cover gaskets were leaking causing my coil packs and spark plugs to fail. Replaced all packs and plugs as well as the upper intake gasket and valve cover gaskets. I’m pretty sure the plugs were the original and my Expedition had 194k miles on it. If that helps anyone. Now my thermostat housing cracked and I need to replace the upper intake and that’s not gonna be fun to do again. Thank you for your video and information. 💪🫡
I would recommend also changing the plug with the coil if the same coil keeps going bad. Also try OEM Motorcraft coil and put some dielectric grease on the little metal spring in the coil boot that contacts the spark plug. Sometimes the coil can arc to the head.
mark kouba no,! Mine was cylinder #8. These F150s are 8 cylinder engines. # 1,2,3,4 are on the passenger side of the engine #5,6,7,8 are on the driver side of the engine. #4 and #8 on on the back side of the engine. #4 is on the back passenger side and #8 is on the back driver side.
I had a similar issue. I replaced all 8 spark plugs and I got a code. My code was P0352 I replace the coil from 2 to 1 and code went away BUt it still hesitating when I want to accelerate and every time I get out of the truck and touch the body it zaps me. I hacked the wiring nothing is shorting so it’s really strange Any ideas ? Thanks
I would verify all of the plugs are still tight and make sure they didn’t come loose for some reason. You shouldn’t be getting zapped unless there’s a poor ground. If all the plugs are tight I would probably replace the #2 coil. Also not sure if you already knew or not but the cylinder layout on Fords are different than the typical engine. I’d look up your engine’s cylinder layout to make sure you’re messing with the right cylinder.
I agree with Tony the truck guy on checking plugs & changing coil. I would suggest for the problem about you getting zapped & I know it sounds stupid. Get an old bungee strap, preferrably a flat one & fasten it to the truck somewhere metal, running board bumper, any as such & leave it long enough to touch the ground when stopped. Do NOT leave the hooks on it. That way everytime you stop it will touch the ground if only by an inch or so. Bet you will find within a day or so unless your clothing is causing a static build up that it will stop zapping you.I had an older 80's Chevy pickup 7 an early 90's Freightliner do the same thig & that little trick stopped both of them from doing it. Worth a try anyways. Good luck.
Why make it difficult if you wanna find outy which coil isnt working strt the vehicle let it get to operating temperature and then listen to motor for a minute get a feel of how it sounds before you do anything so that you know when something changes do one at a time unplug a coil if the sound of motor doesnt change then most likely that coil is bad hook it back up move to next one and so on till you get to last one..
You mentioned the truck is your gf's...and you're not a fan. What, specificlly, are the issues you have in regards to this particular year(s), model, etc?
It just seems like every time I work on a Ford in general, I have a hard time due to poor design. The 5.4 in particular has its fair share of issues from spark plugs breaking to cam phasers going out.
Just installing the little bolts that hold the coils down? I believe I just started them by hand first, but you could also put a little gob of grease in your socket to hold them for you. They also make extensions that have small magnets on the end, or you could just glue a small magnet to your extension.
Those coils are not OEM ford pieces! They would say Motorcraft on top if they were Factory Ford coils. I snag as many as I can at pick & pull and i happen to know the real deal from the fakes! I hear tell that if you purchase coils from E-Bay that they are not real ford parts.
I just noticed she only had a 1/4 tank of gas, tell her coming from another woman she needs to keep it filled more because I messed up several fuel pumps doing that even after my mechanic dad got on to me lol.
I can’t talk too much cause I typically fill my tank all the way and run it to damn near empty 😂 I know it’s harder on the fuel pump I just hate stopping for fuel when it’s not actually needed haha
I have a 2010 f150 5.4 and only when I am going up hill it seems to have a slight miss. I can get on it going uphill and it doesnt miss or anything it's only when I'm gradually going uphill. It's got 90k on it i just replaced plugs on it. I'm thinking it might be a bad or weak coil. It's just weird how it will only do it while driving up a hill.
Yeah it’s weird but when it’s an issues related to something like this, it seems to do worse when going light on the throttle under load. This truck would run a bit better if you floored it, but you could feel it hiccuping if just cruising and you hit a small hill. This truck ended up having multiple cracked spark plugs. I’d double check all your plugs are tight, then swap around coils if needed and see if any codes pop up or switch locations.
Automotive design sucks and should include the mechanics in mind. Build these trucks were you have room to work on them. Don't lay a/c, wires and vacume tunes over the coils.
Wish my daughter was dating a guy whose mechanically inclined but unfortunately he is a dumbass so therfore I have to fix everything lol. Thanks for the video
It's not new! I heard a mechanic complaining about dirty older cars! You shouldn't have to do much to a new vehicle but thats what everyone works on today!
Yeah the truck sat outside a lot. I'm not a fan of pressure washing engine bays though, I've seen water cause too many issues with computers and electrical connectors.
Great video. I've done this a few times before and I have an additional bit of advice. The 5.4l engine came in many different versions - 2v,3v,4v and different variants of each of those. I do know that my 2006 3v came with the black boot and it's a different length than the brown boot. If yours came with a black boot you should replace with same. I know u did this three years ago, but if anyone is watching and about to do this procedure they might find it useful. You did say that you got it from the dealership so I would hope they got it right, but they do make mistakes too. When I've ordered aftermarket ones online, some manufacturers actually list the boot colors too as another way to verify. Anyway, thanks and keep up the great videos
Excellent points!
Which version of coils would I need for 2004 f-150?
I would just call the Ford dealer with your VIN and get the part number directly for them, or look up by year/make/model on Napa, O'Reilly, etc.
Great video. I just dropped a ridiculous amount of money at the dealer to change the plugs in my 06. they charged me 150 to replace the #3 COP. Now that i have new plugs, i'm just going to replace all the COP's myself. Thank you.
Live and learn, in 1983 I was in line at the cashier at the chevy dealer the girl in front of me had a bill for 180$ for a exhaust manifold replacement on a new car they told her the warranty does not cover this repair and she paid the bill ! I learned ealry research and do your own repairs for nearly nothing!
Just a little bit of info for everyone . their are 3 generations of the 5.4l At 12:31 when he talks about the boot size being shorter/longer depends on what gen 5.4l you have. These are coils from 2 different gen 5.4's The easiest way to make sure you get the correct coils is the boots came in two different colors therefor two different lengths and voltage output. Your boot will be Brown or Black Get the correct coil. Just a tip to spare someone a headache. Not all 5.4 are the same.Thanks for the video nice detail on a coil change. PS: don't loose the 7mm bolt holding the coil down. These are a ford only thread you wont have a replacement in your bucket of bolts. When you order one from Ford well Mine was $21 for 1........Just saying.
Awesome addition of information, thanks!
@@TonyTheTruckGuy No Problem I love this motor I have a 97 f150 xlt !st year of 5.4l and a2010 F150 fx4 last year of 5.4l I know this motor in and out. If you would like a few pointers I learned over the years about the 5.4 only. Let me know there a a few upgrades that you will actually see/feel difference but most 5.4l upgrades the gains are minimal they may look cool but when tested. Performance is minute if any at all. Not to say bling is bad. But if purchasing aftermarket upgrades expecting performance unless throwing a Roush supercharger. "one of my dream builds" There only a few I'd spend $ on. This advice is my opinion only based on 1st hand trial and error thing that have met or beat expectation and thing I wasted $$$$ on. Just let me know. Have a good one.
The other thing to mention is that the intech 5.4l doesn't use a screw to secure the COP's - at least not the older 32valve - they are secured by a cover for all 4 on the side... Ford made something so easy so hard... thanks ford lol - Im dreading doing it, but at 160K they all need to be done - One tip - only use MOTORCRAFT plugs... I heard the early tritons had problems with plugs breaking off in the head... OMG what I nightmare that would be!
I'd rather buy the entire ignition coil
@@josephbagio7930 You have to - it's all one unit - Stupid not to do both and all 8 if you get the covers off and are in there anyways - mine runs like new again now!
My 1997 E350 5.4l with 178000 miles on it was misfiring on minor acceleration. It would stumble, unless I almost floored it. I got a pack of 8 coils on eBay with a 5 year warranty for $50.00 total. It was a bear to change the coils on that van. Yet, it did solve the problem! I was stoked that for less than half a C note, my old beater was markedly running better. Thanks for the video.
2007 ford f150 has 206000 miles it also stumbles at minor acceleration and it makes this nasty loud rattling,tapping noise and it shakes so bad, it fells like it's gonna fall apart.
It started doing this about onth ago while going up a hill.
Did yours shake and make noises? Thanks I'm desperate to get this truck back on track.
@@j.carlos146 my truck didn’t shake or make rattling noises, it just struggled to run strong and consistently. You might have an issue with some aspect of timing, either ignition or camshaft.
@@j.carlos146 same here on my 04.f150- Put all 8 motorcraft coils on -still missing-scanner reads missing on primary coil A and E and secondary coil B and H??? Idk. I'm ready to pull what hair i have left OUT
8 coil packs for $50 dollars equates to Chinese knock off parts and not genuine Motorcraft replacements. These parts are everywhere on Ebay and now Amazon. There are videos on You Tube to help spot the fakes and save ones self from a lot of grief. If your $50 eight pack lasts, consider yourself very fortunate.
@@majorkursk780 I am in agreement with your assertion on principle, yet I did shop around for the brand that offered a warranty, which was 5 years.
Great youtute (youtubetutorial), I am always blown away when I read comments hear or on forums, So many people think the dealership is the answer to their problems, You may as well get a handful of money, get in your car/truck, get on the freeway, roll your window down and throw that money out the window. All you need to do is take a look at the building and the employees at any dealership, Then ask yourself how much money it would take to make payroll and open the doors to that building everyday?, You will then realize dealerships HAVE to gouge their customers, that is the only way they can afford the overhead and stay in business. So...If your first move is the dealership? Your second move should be a mental institution!
I dropped a cylinder on my Crown Vic. It lost power and stuttered all the way home. CEL came on. Ticket writer at the dealership would have a field day with this one. Instead, I pulled a coil at the junk yard. Tested it with a DVM (not fool proof but better than nothing). Problem fixed for $21.
Excellent video and communication. Straightforward and detailed.
Good description and video. I've got to do the #1 coil on my Ford Five Hundred and it's one of the ones underneath the intake manifold on a transverse V-6, so it's a little challenging to get to. I'm going to swap it with the #2 coil next to it just to test it also. I did this with my Jaguar XJ6 several times and only needed to replace coil twice in 360,000 miles. They don't necessarily fail one after another like some people suggest. Wish this car was a easy to get to as the Jaguar though.
That’s why I like my edge programmer. It shows me which cylinder. It does a diagnostic test for you.Been running a custom tune on my truck for 7 years now.Changed everything to MSD like my race cars.towing package setting is awesome pulling my car hauler.No problems.Plug it up to your laptop download the upgrades.
The evo? Tells you how spark is on each cylinder ? I have a 06 and just messed with the evo for a while I have original coils on new plugs at 92k miles Thinking I should do new coils
@@joesmith-fi1sx Yes it shows the codeAnd tells you on which cylinder has a misfire primary/secondary msd 8243 coils. The multimeter showed coil was good new platinum plugs. Check the cylinder with my ridgid Ca-25 everything good. Pulled the coil and spark while running. Boot had a microscopic crack. Only 50,000 miles on coils. Can upgrade with downloading tunes
Have a Ford 500 Limited with the Duratec V-6. 4, 5 and 6 are right in front. 1, 2 and 3 in the back you can't even see. Intake removal, etc, etc. A completely different job. Checked the front 3 and they were fine. That figures, right? I'll end up cleaning the injectors, changing plugs and replacing all the coil packs. Don't want to be doing this again in 6 months. The car has been meticulously maintained. Never missed an oil change and never had a problem with it. Thanks for the video.
Hah, it’s NEVER the bank that’s easy to get at 😂 good luck!
Tony? I did it! I replaced #2 coil pack. (the one my long time mechanic should have replaced)
I cleared the codes. They never came back after many key cycles.
However!!!!! My 03 expedition still "bucks" a little going up grades. I think another coil is misfiring, but not enough to throw a code.
The electrical connection gave me the biggest headache.
I could not squeeze hard enough to release. I gently used pliers!
I thought the coil came out from the plug "too easy". Im used to standard plug wires "clicking" to connect and "popping" off when removed. The same feeling when putting on new coil.
No click.....no sound.... Not sure if it connected correctly in blind plug hole.
Took me about 10 minutes.
The professionals charged me $76 and changed the wrong coil pack (throwing away a good coil). And I brought them the coil!
They claimed it took 45 minutes to swap coils on cylinder #1.
Bull*hit! That's the easiest one to change.
I need to diagnose and repair 4
wheel drive (not communicating).
Do you have a video for that?
Hello! I do not have a 4x4 video for your particular vehicle but it’s likely the switch itself or the actuator on the transfer case. As far as the coil goes, they just sit on top of the spark plug, there will not be any click or anything like you’re used to on older cars where the wire clips directly to to spark plug. If it’s still bucking, my guess is either bad spark plugs or another bad coil. Not sure what engine you have, but this 5.4 triton was bucking even after this coil replacement and I ended up doing all 8 spark plugs which fixed it.
Mine is same engine.
@@teddydabear242 By bet is plugs then but can’t say for sure without checking it out
I wish I could talk to you further on mechanical aspects of my expedition.
But I don't want to monopolize your post on coil pack replacement.
@@teddydabear242 Hey go for it man, throw all the comments you want out here haha. I can’t promise I’ll be super helpful on the specific topics since I work on such a broad range of vehicles, but I’ll do my best!
I was told to just replace them all, so I ordered a set of 8 trq’s from 1a auto for $125. Last time I changed a 2 bad coils at 100k miles and they were $60 each coil for aftermarket. I usually only replace what’s bad but figured for the price I would replace them all.
The OEM has coils are expensive and is what everybody recommends that’s why people don’t usually do all of them even though it makes me feel better lol
U can reset the engine light by turning the key to the on position ....3 times...insert key..turn key to start position without starting it ...wait each time for bells whistles to stop........3 times repeat...neat little trick....
Nice trick. Another trick is to read the DTC using Gage Engineering mode. Hold down the trip reset button on the instrument cluster and turn ignition on without engine start. When display says "Gage", release the button and it will enter Gage Test mode and test all the dials. When complete, you can then use the button to toggle through the messages until you get to DTC. I wish I knew what the data displays mean or how useful the DTC readout is. This works on my 08 Crown Vic. I've read this being done with other Ford models.
Now that I know the three key turn trick clears DTC codes, it is possible to do emergency repairs without a scanner or code reader.
I have a ford truck with 240,000 miles , every so often you will get a misfire, and throw no code. Going up a hill you will feel it chug with low power, or decelerating you will feel the drivetrain pulsing, you will have a bad idle and power loss. The amount of labor involved to change 1 coil and plug with the possibility of doing this 7 more times as each fails makes it worth it to do it once and do all 8. If one fails the other 7 will fail very soon. The cheapest and best route is to go to JEGS and buy all 8 JEGS brand coil packs for `130$ motorcraft plugs are also very cheap to buy. When you install all 8 you have 8 new coils firing the same and the engine will run smooth and you wont have to do this same repair for a few years . The JEGS coil packs are better than the motorcraft coils for 1/3rd the price.
Whirl Wind really??? have you bought fuel injectors?? which one do you like and how long have you had them on??
I going to say something that I'm sure many of you will laugh like hell and say bull crap. But here goes, when you get a reading on your checker that coils are operating at, say 80%, there's far better and cheaper fix. Clean the frigging complete throttle body system before you buy any coils. Dealerships will not tell you this. However is the code is the coil pack then change it. Got 318,000 miles on my 2003 Expedition 5.4, Eddie Bauer an have only replace one coil at a time, just the one that needed. Since I bought the Expedition, I have replace only had to replace five coil packs in total. Be sure to understand what may have caused the coil pack to go bad. Example #4 could go bad because of anti freeze leaking form that little by pass hose, hanging over #4. Replacing number 4 and 8 are a real pain in the but.
Would a coil or plug make the truck jerk going up a hill
I also have a 05 f150 with 5.4 and it has 225,000 miles, my truck does the same thing it show's no code and the service light does not come on but when its under load like going up hill in high gear you feel a chug or miss every once and a while .If I let up on the gas a little it stops,when I change plugs it stops this problem, I have only had one coil go bad since the truck was new.RockAuto has good coils for the best price.
@@andyhodge2568 Yes it will try plugs first.
Thanks man! Helped me fix the G coil on my 2008 f150 with 200k+ miles...
I dunno how I'd get at some of those coils, though.
Yeah they don't make it fun on some of them lol. Glad you got it fixed!
Absolutely helpful! I have a 2002 f-150 that i have had to change CP's so many times, And i have a 1999 f-150 w/over 300k & have not change any CP's in it!! A.J.S.U.K. i have a hearing problem but you were so clear & plain even i could understand you , lol
@@victorbunch7725 Thank you very much for the positive feedback! Glad I could help!
You Sir did a very good job explaining yourself. About a C+ on camera work. I didn't have to take motion sickness pills to watch this video. Pretty good job editing. Your next video have somebody else film it and also use a tripod for stability for mono pod
Haha. Yeah, with my schedule, it's not easy to find a camera man. I did recently get a DJI Osmo gimbal to help smooth things out a bit and I'll be getting a few tripods and go pros in the future.
Lmao
I just did an '07 Expedition, and it used numbers to denote which cylinder.
Super consistent I see lol
Thank! I’ll be replacing #6 COP on my 5.4 2003 Expedition when it stops raining.
I highly recommend disconnecting the negative connection from the battery before working on any electrical parts.
Why? Explain why.. you HIGHLY recommend.. 🙄
@@shaffydaffy3050 Google is your friend
Tony, your comparison of the old coil to the new one with the longer spring sticking out is probably because of years being compressed plus the heat relaxed the tension, therefore making it shorter
Except that other new packs don't extend down that far.
I have to do this on my 5.4 2V , but I'm honestly overwhelmed with how difficult it looks like to reach all of the ones stashed in the back
Yeah the back ones definitely are not fun lol. It’s just a space issue though, same steps as all the other ones. Just going to take more time and patience.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy thanks for the encouragement , lol. I have to do it
This isn't an issue on gen 11 5.4s. I guess Ford saw their design flaw and reconfigured the engine bay for more room .Kinda late for a company that's been around for a over a century and they can't even figure out how to keep sp plugs from blowing out the head. F.IX O.R R.EPAIR D.AILY!!?
Very good. I always though position of componants was from your position in drivers seat. Had 307 code replaced coil not fixed. Guess i did # 2. Swap tomorrow
Typically you’re right, but Ford likes to do things backwards and make it complicated 😂
Here is hopefully a helpful comment for anyone that is changing the plugs on the Intech 5.4L version - the factory plugs have less threads than the newer ones - when I pulled them, I thought I bought the wrong replacements but they are the correct ones... I guess Ford changed it so the plug would have more "meat" or maybe to fit more things, etc... not sure but it's what they went to now... I know this was about coils, but in my opinion it's silly to only do the COP's on these without also replacing the plugs just my opinion.
I have a misfire on #8... I changed out the plugs on the entire side of 4-8 & Still have the misfire.... My ford tech buddy then tells me that I changed out 1-4 !!! What a funny guy he is... at least I got #8 done. All. plugs 1-4 weren't hardly hand tight....
Yeah haha, Ford numbers their cylinders weird. I believe cylinder 1 is the front passenger side and then as you go towards the rear, it’s cylinder 2, 3, 4. Then 5-8 are on the drivers side bank. May be a coil issue if you’re still having problems after plugs.
Can you check primary resistance by getting an old female clip from junk yard, stripping the wires then substituting it onto your existing coils one at a time and checking with multimeter. Seems this would be helpful for rearmost ones.
@@CharlesGwinn-ep9pb Coukd be worth it if owning the vehicle long term!
if you swap coils, you will know immediately whether plug or coil by using the COP tester, no waiting to throw a code.
This video is a little old but I thought I'd ask a question. maybe you can throw out an idea. I have a 2002 Ford Harley f150. Comes with a 5.4 supercharged motor. At 24,000 miles Ford replaced the motor with a brand new factory long block which included their new 7 thread heads. Long story short is that within roughly 20,000 additional miles the truck developed a slight miss. It never threw a code and the truck was still very drive able. I finally decided to contact my local Ford dealership to see what they thought the problem might be. Without a code showing they said it would be hard to diagnose. Seems the idiot light is also for them. They told me that when the new motor wen't in the original spark plugs and coil packs were used. They recommended that I should change them. I agreed to do so. So $1,500 later my wife picks up the truck and puts it in the driveway. When I got home I went out to start the truck. When I do it's barely running and the engine light goes on. The next day I contact Ford to ask if they crossed the wires. They told me to check the pick up receipt and look at the notations. I do and it claims my #4 cylinder is dead and I need a new motor. I won't get into the furious comments I replied to them with. Phones were hung up and the truck has sat ever since. I tried to put a code reader on the truck but I can't get it to bring anything back up. I also can't get the truck to run well enough to make it throw the code again. Any thoughts on this one?
Ugh. Sorry to hear about the struggle. I think at this point, your best bet is to buy or rent a compression tester. Remove 1 spark plug and check for compression 1 cylinder at a time. This should let you know if you have damaged pistons or valves. If the compression check turns out good, you’re probably looking at fuel or electrical. I know the “fuel pump drivers” on the F150 is notorious for going out.
I may be late but your problem sounds like the fpdm.fuel pump driver module.these trucks fuel pressure at all vacuum controlled make sure you have no vacuum leaks.
Hey thanks man I got the engine light driving a four hour trip, put scanner and it gave me code p0354 primary coil. parked it for a week and it won’t turn on going to change coil soon will it turn on ?
@@ramone.1021 Turn on? You mean the truck won’t start? Is it not even trying to crank? Because if that’s the case then you probably have a bad starter or dead battery. If it cranks but won’t start, then maybe the coil will fix it, but if it ran before, it may be something new that is the issue.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy yes not even trying to crank battery is good lights ect, statert is new.
@@ramone.1021 It’s going to be something else then not the coil if it’s not even crying to crank. Would need to check for power down at the starter while someone else tries to start it to see if starter is getting power
@@TonyTheTruckGuy thanks for the help 🙏
These coils have a life expectancy of 90,000 miles was at 90,000 changed my plugs yea twice in never one broke 07 f150 . One a month failed after 2 changed them all 2 years later no problem. These things are like popcorn put 8 kernels in the kettle you hear 1 or 2 pop at the same time but when its all done all 8 are done the kettle is at maximum heat at 100,000.
Jason joncas I have 270,000 on my 07 F150 replaced spark plugs 3 times, just now starting to change coils. Probably should of replaced coils a few miles ago..
I was truly hoping you would put an olm meter on the coils to see what readings you got.
I would have, but I didn’t have access to the correct specifications, so I’d just have to compare them to each other which doesn’t help much if there’s several coils that are bad.
Good demonstration, thank you.
Great video than you .. it will help me my car I drive alot. Thamks
You have a Northern rust belt vehicle, If you love your car or truck move south and you will have them for a lifetime!
It should be illegal to use road salt here lol. South is looking more and more tempting, but I really hate the heat.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy Here is the best kept secret about the south, North Va. Beach, it never gets hot because of the on shore breeze from the Chesapeake bay. I spend two hours a day everyday walking on the beach in the summer I walk in the evening though because of my fair skin.
Thanks for your time brother 🙂🙂
Hey Tony, thank you for doing this video!!! I only have a $50 Topdon but it does tell me that there is a cylinder 1 misfire. My engine light is on and I can feel a little lumpiness in the engine. I found needing more power while climbing up a grade the the engine light flashes, the lumpiness gets worse. When the call for power ends the engine goes back to the slight lumpiness and the engine light stops flashing and goes back to constant on. WITH ALL THIS SAID......... do coils vary their output based on demand?? Also, do coils get weak or do they just totally crap the bed?? Buying 4 new OEM Motorcraft coils and plugs as we speak. 180K miles, it's time. 2009 Escape 2.5L. Thanks again!!!
Coils should always apply the same energy each time they fire as far as I’m aware. Usually they just stop working all together, or are making an intermittent connection with the spark plug which could also cause a sputtering. As long as that cylinder 1 coil is getting hood power and ground, the spark plug and coil should fix it.
I was having the lumpiness in 5th gear only. Then after letting someone look it started under load as early as second gear. Me and my neighbor tinkered with it and found the connection right to the coil was not completely clipped…so he somehow got them to actually click in…all the lower gear lumpiness gone…fast forward 3 days I have two coils replaced now we have lumpiness and flashing cel under extreme load… I’m fkkn lost atm
@@kevinhuguet9675 Any codes?
Atm no codes no cel nothing. Tuner isn’t picking up anything either.
@@kevinhuguet9675 Well that blows. Kind of need something to act up to know where to go haha. This truck was kinda the same thing though. It took quite some time of it running like crap before it threw a light. I ended up replacing all the spark plugs and a few of them were cracked. You may have that issue as well, but these plugs can be a major pain to replace. They’re notorious for breaking off.
Wow! That engine is really dirty! I live in Oregon so they don't salt the roads on the west coast.
Good to know, I've replaced all 8 coils on my 06 f150 twice and still having issues, not OEM coils.
You may also have bad plugs if you haven’t changed those lately.
Tony The Truck Guy already replaced with all new plugs but thanks
computer is bad
Chuck Urgitus,
I have the same thing going on. Although after changing the coil packs, it doesn't misfire as much. But it still does, a little bit. I've considered that it might be the spark plug wire, but I can't seem to find anything definitive to support this. You got any ideas??
Make sure to use plenty of dielectric grease on the plug boots it prevents spark jump
Good video very helpful
Thanks man you helpme good 💯
Great vid
Where did you buy that coil tester with the long handle you lay on top of coil to test it
Link in video description! It should be the first link - yellow looking goofy thing haha.
Thanks for the vid. DANG! Ya'll been mudding in that thing right? I get nervous when working around plug wells with too much crud that might fall in there.
Nope, pavement princess. Mud ruins things lol.
Good video. I have a 2000 Lincoln LS V8 I changed out all 8 spark plugs cause I have a misfire. It ran well for about a good week and ended up with the misfire again. So now im going to change all 8 coils but any way by any chance did you put connector grease on those coils you replaced?
I didn’t but typically a bit of electrical grease on the end of the coil that contacts the spark plug won’t hurt anything. I don’t really mess with adding any to the actual electrical connector.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy okay and another thing this car has been sitting for about a good 2-3 years without running. When took the right side of the coils out the # 6-8 coils have like this brownish liquid on the coil. Would you happen to know what that is?
Probably just some old dielectric grease. Doesn’t hurt anything so long as the metal coil can still contact the spark plug. If the car has been sitting that long, I would also see if there’s a fuel filter you can change.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy alright that was going to be my next solution the fuel filter. But hey Thanks Tony I appreciate the help I'll let you know if there's no more misfire
i have a 4 cylinder and the cylinder 3 stop working and left me stranded I have a scanner and that's what the scanner said and it said don't drive and so we had it towed hopefully if I change all the coils and spark plugs maybe that will do the trick I hope I have a 2010 Hyundai Tucson just rolled over 90000 miles the light didn't come on until it started choking what do you think
A lot of things could cause a misfire. Low compression, bad plugs, coils, or wires, lack of fuel supply, etc. Does the car start at all? I would also check your oil level to make sure the engine didn’t go dry and starve for oil. If that looks good, plugs and wires are cheap enough to replace that I would probably do that next.
Can coils act up after they get hot?
Definitely possible since the components likely expand with heat
@@TonyTheTruckGuy 👍
What's the difference between the brown boots and the black coil boots?
I’m not sure to be honest. Unless they changed manufacturers or materials. But as long as they’re the same part number should be fine.
On the 2008 F-150's is when Ford decided to redesign the spark plugs. When they did that, they switched to the "brown" colored boot that had the new design plug. All other F-150's from 2004 until about September/October build date time frame in 2008 had old design plugs that would seize and snap in the head when you would try to remove them. They also had the "black" boots on those. That's how you know if you have the newer or older design plugs. The newer plugs look more like a regular spark plug whereas the older plugs have that ground shield on them.
Hello Tony i bought a new 2007 F 150 5.4 only owner and driver, and i use it rarely. I do run it often. I only use Chevron gas. This truck only has 59K The last few months it seems to missfire??? It does it at higher speeds or uphills. No check engine light on. this truck has been babbyed. I had the truck serviced at the dealer at 50K all was done except the fuel filter... The dealer wants around $800 to change the coils if that is even what it is? I'm now more on a budget and my neighbor the weekend mechanic said hed do it. The real motorcraft seem to run $60 each. Plugs i think run $12 each. Should i do all of them as he suggested, and should i guess??? Thanks for on-line info Mark retired
Had the exact same symptoms on an ‘06 that was my ex’s and it ended up being a combination of 2 things. The spark plugs were cracked and causing misfire under load, but wouldn’t throw an engine light. Then after that it was having issues with the torque converter staying locked up so I changed the solenoid for that. I would start with plugs and inspect the coils for any cracks or damage while doing the plugs. But be.m careful, the plugs on these engines are notorious for breaking upon removal.
I was hoping to see ohm values to diagnose slight, intermittent misfire without any codes.
Sorry to be so off topic but does anyone know a method to log back into an Instagram account?
I somehow lost my password. I love any tricks you can offer me.
@Briggs Major instablaster :)
@Titus Tyson thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and I'm in the hacking process atm.
Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Titus Tyson It worked and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my account :D
@Briggs Major happy to help :)
Thank you very awesome!
So if i replace all the plugs in my '00 5.4 litre and it still runs crappy can I remove one coil at a time and notice if there's any appreciable difference until no noticable depreciation in engine performance ...? Would this be ok to do?
Just don’t do it with the engine running, you might get zapped haha.
I have an issue where no spark is getting transferred to all 4 spark plugs on an 07 ford escape yet no check engine codes. Im not sure where to look now. Maybe just replace coil packs first?
Is it a 4 cylinder escape? And is there just 1 coil pack for all 4 spark plugs, or individual coil packs?
@@TonyTheTruckGuy they are individual and it's a 4 cylinder.
That’s very strange if none of the 4 are getting spark. I would get one of the coil on plug testers that you hold on top of the coil and it lights up if the coil is getting power. If you’re getting power to the coil but no spark then the coil is likely bad but I have a hard time believing that all 4 went out at the same time. If you’re not getting power to the coils then I would verify good battery connection. The engine ECU likely supplies power to the coils so there could be an issues there as well but I always start with the basics.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy I thought it was strange too. However, I pulled each spark plug out and tested individually by turning the engine over and touching it to the frame or metal and got nothing. I also found it hard to believe all four went out at the same time as well. I had the problem after a -7° degree night. Is there a way to test the two wires that go in the coil for power? I have a multi meter, maybe just check volts when I'm cranking the engine?
Well get this, I just went outside and it fired up! Something got frozen I guess and thawed out this morning. Thanks for replying and helping out buddy.
...to clear a code on my truck, all I do is disconnect the negative cable of the battery and let it off for about three to five minutes...works ok for me all the time...I do have a scanner... prefer cable off...
That usually works, but the codes will likely still be in there as stored codes. I prefer a clean slate is all.
I have a 2006 Ford Expedition. I just had all 8 spark plugs changed and put in a new coil. Cylinder 6 was the misfire and the code was P0353 - ignition coil C primary/secondary unit. The code came right back on and it's still running rocky during acceleration. I unplugged and plugged back in. Any thoughts or advice?
Switch the suspected bad coil to a different cylinder then clear codes. If the code comes back for the same cylinder, you know it’s not the coil, and if the code follows to the cylinder you moved that coil to, you know it’s the coil. Also double check the cylinder layout. Ford is usually weird and their “bank 1” is the passenger side as opposed to chevy and most others where bank 1 is drivers side. I believe for also numbers them in numerical order vs firing order.
I can't ever get electrical connector to disconnect.
Is there a trick to it?
You have to depress the tab on the bottom side of the connector at the same time you're trying to unplug the connector. Wiggling while you pull usually helps because dirt and other debris gets in there and makes it harder to disconnect. It also helps sometimes to actually push the connector ON, then depress the retainer tab and try to unplug it. If there's any tension on the retainer tab, it won't release when you depress it. Last option would be to use a small pick or screwdriver to wedge under the retainer tab and then you can focus on wiggling and pulling on the connector.
Thanks!
Camshaft position sensors two of them. How do I do that?
2654 engine camshaft position sensors, board expedition, two of them. How do I do that?
2006 5.4 expedition, camshaft position sensors to them. How do I do it?
ua-cam.com/video/rXRzO06y6vo/v-deo.htmlsi=Cx5iO-Rj2231WItl
Replacement ignition coil for 2005 Cadillac Escalade 5.3 litre #6
Good instructor.
Will disconnecting the battery and jumping the terminal cables like when resetting the computer clear the codes?
You mean disconnected the battery and then touching the ground and power cables together? Could try it. Or even just disconnecting the battery might work. Some vehicles that works and some it doesn’t. Worth a shot!
@@TonyTheTruckGuy
Yes,
I said with a jumper because sometimes the cables aren't long enough to reach over the battery.
Thx!
@@icicicles Got it haha. Good luck!
Good video, you covered it nicely.
What if I dont have any codes but have similar issue? Also I have an 06 colorado plugs are underneath a breather box and when the box is disconnected truck only runs for a second (not long enough for me to test coils lol
Unfortunately I’m not familiar with Colorado’s, never had to work on one surprisingly lol. It could be many things including spark plugs or coil. Doesn’t always throw a code for stuff like that but like I said there’s many possible causes.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy Thanks, Ill start with fuel filter and plugs
they should all be replaced at the same time. it will actually cost more to replace them individually as the others go bad.
@@safetydave720 Not when you’re doing the work yourself lol. Unless you somehow get a package deal on 8 could vs 1 at a time.
Some good tips here
I'm glad someone thinks so.
thanks, nice video.
good luck if you change the plugs.... I have a F150 5.4 2005. and a explorer 4.6 2007. out of 16 plugs 14 out of 16 broke off... what a pain in the ass... a 3 day tune up...
Wayne Garrison pull your coil pack off, vacuum or blow out the plug tubes with compressed air to remove any dirt or debris. Spray the tube with a shot of PB Blaster or any penetration oil. Let it set overnight and the next day, those puppy will slide right out. Haven't broke a plug off in 2-3 years.
Also run the engine to get it hot, plugs come right out.
2004-late 2007 3 valves have this issue...2 piece plug welded shell plug was a idiotic idea- try and remove normally, they will snap- read the TSBs. warm engine, crack loose, pour carb cleaner arond threads, let sit, back and forth at not over 30 ftlb as long as it takes...crunching/creaking/gaining 1/16 of a turn each reversal... got all out of my 06 mustang at >90k miles, but DID use the OTCcollet/support tool that actually also grips the tip, gives a tiny bit more torque-ability by helping turn the center too... thankfully didnt need the Lisle extractor(bought both expecting the worst). go slow, they can come out. if you ge a Lisle extractor, be sure it has three or four marking grooves in the shell- earlier ones with one or two groove markings were known to snap off the extractor in the plug...pulling a head off to remove that would really be upsetting!
@Biana Doubt those though were still one piece- the problem the 2 valves had was there were only three threads, and they would pretty easily strip, or work loose/blow the threads out of the heads... sad how two sequential designs had something as simple as spark plug hole coulda been so screwed up... but the three valve I swear was a planned obsolescence item- they never get swapped till out of warranty, and 'normal' removal is prettymuch guaranteed to twist off the stupid welded shell. really all these shoulda been a recall- there were so many 5.4/4.6 2 valves that had blow out issues, and probably 3/4 of the three valves ran into twist-offs... pretty pathetic how ford hid behind TSBs on both issues :(
@@AmandaVee83 ill need to try this, im dreading replacing the plugs.
I wish I had a guy like you nearby.
My local mechanic took me for a bundle.....but all my codes came back. Nothing fixed.
Ugh. I hate the ‘ol parts cannon approach
Trouble code showed misfire on #2 cylinder.
So they put a new coil pack on #1.
Yesssssss that will definately fix #2 misfire. NOT!
When confronted about this glaring mistake? They got huffy and hung up the phone.
Great video
Do negative numbers mean misfiring? So ideally you would've replaced the coil pack on #8 also?
What are the numbers a measurement of? Thanks for the vid!
I wouldn’t worry about a negative number so much as a number that it way off from the other numbers. The -33 on cylinder 1 was definitely the outlier. #8 may have been low due to trying to compensate for #1 for all we know. These numbers are basically just calculated contribution of that cylinder, and the higher the number, the better it is.
I probably would just hook. Each individual cop up and hook it up to a source and plug in a old spark plug. And grounded it😜
The coils on mine don't even stop working, they just all cracked off at the screw holes.
Lucky!!!!!
I need help, what happens if the screw holes for the fuel injectors are broken on the valve cover for a 2005 f250 V10, the injectors are just sitting there without anything holding it down the valve cover, it’s misfiring and I’ve done the tune up 2 times in less than 6 months trying to fix the problem because the way it was running was terrible the whole truck has been shaking pretty bad and I can heard the piston misfiring from the exhaust, the code comes out to bad fuel injectors but i think It might be the spark plugs what should i do?
So the holes for the bolts that hold down the fuel rail are stripped out? I assume that’s the intake manifold that the bolts thread in to. If there’s still material there, you can try to drill and tap it for a slightly bigger bolt. Otherwise the intake manifold would need to be replaced.
Tony The Truck Guy No no the valve covers, the cover for the cylinder head
Tony The Truck Guy I’m so sorry I feel retarded, I meant the Ignition coils not the fuel injectors
Oh ok, well those would be slightly easier than the intake manifold to replace of the drilling and tapping doesn’t work with a heli-coil kit
Tony The Truck Guy So if the ignition coils are just sitting on top of the spark plug but they are loose and nothing is holding it snug, for 3 of my cylinders could that be causing the misfiring
looks like cooling leak look at the white scaling around the plugs and inside the plug hole to.
best yet good job thank you
I take boot off. Leave plug in. Blow air in hole. Sometimes water gets in.
Definitely!
What is the correct fuel pressure for the 5.4?
35 PSI +/- 5
Thanks Tony! Just to make sure I forgot to tell the year is 2012. Ford redesigned their heads, It doesn't matter, right?
Oooookoo. That I’m not sure then. Didn’t they replace the 5.4 with the 5.0 in 2011? I thought you could only get the 5.4 in 2012 and newer if it’s a F-250 or higher. I guess I’m not positive on that one, but when I just did a google search for “5.4 triton fuel pressure”, I found multiple places saying 35 +/- 5.
New plugs new coil packs new injectors new fuel rail. Still has a miss and popping through exhaust. compression is even across cylinders on cranking. Any ideas?
Any codes? Also has the fuel filter been changed if it has one?
Tony The Truck Guy No codes. Filter changed last year.
Have you hooked up a pressure gauge to confirm fuel pressure? I know these F150’s have fuel pump driver module issues.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy Not yet. It has plenty of power on hills and towing. Just that popping in the exhaust. Like fuel igniting in the pipe.
I’d verify good fuel pressure and if that looks good then you may have a plugged up cat or a more severe engine problem such as cam phasers
How often should you replace the coils? Also are the coil packs expensive from the dealer. My 05 f250 has 59k on the motor
I usually don’t mess with them unless it starts throwing codes for misfire. I can’t remember how much they cost but I do have them in the video description.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy thank you
Christopher Karedis I just recently bought a coils for my 05 f250. I costed around 60$ for just one coil.
@@sebastiancastro986 wow!
Helpful
All of this assumes your missing engine throws a P30X code... Which may or MAY NOT be the case...
Correct it’s not a perfect method but it’s your best shot with not much knowledge and just renting a scan tool. It took a while for this truck to finally throw an engine light. It also had bad spark plugs though.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy My 2004 Triton 4.6 runs fine except after a good rain or at highway speed under a slight load, so I'm sure it is a "weak" spark coil. Just need to know which one.
Yeah in addition to the bad coil, this truck also was bucking and shuttering in overdrive under light load conditions like a small hill but wasn’t throwing a light. That was fixed after doing all 8 plugs.
That girlfriend of yours is smart to be able to afford that large tank.
Well she’s my ex now and the truck is for sale 😂
What if it’s intermittent?
Swap coil to different cylinder and see if code follows coil
Update. My valve cover gaskets were leaking causing my coil packs and spark plugs to fail. Replaced all packs and plugs as well as the upper intake gasket and valve cover gaskets. I’m pretty sure the plugs were the original and my Expedition had 194k miles on it. If that helps anyone. Now my thermostat housing cracked and I need to replace the upper intake and that’s not gonna be fun to do again. Thank you for your video and information. 💪🫡
@@AG-33- Glad you got it figured out! Sorry to hear about your series of bad luck with that thing!
Thanks sir
Parkway Drive - Karma
Is the intro music
I have a 2012 eco boost and keep losing cylinder #3 coil. Any one this problem or suggestions
I would recommend also changing the plug with the coil if the same coil keeps going bad. Also try OEM Motorcraft coil and put some dielectric grease on the little metal spring in the coil boot that contacts the spark plug. Sometimes the coil can arc to the head.
I had a misfire on cylinder 8 which was a pain in the @$$ to get to but it was doable
8? Try #4
mark kouba no,! Mine was cylinder #8. These F150s are 8 cylinder engines. # 1,2,3,4 are on the passenger side of the engine #5,6,7,8 are on the driver side of the engine. #4 and #8 on on the back side of the engine. #4 is on the back passenger side and #8 is on the back driver side.
I had a similar issue. I replaced all 8 spark plugs and I got a code. My code was P0352
I replace the coil from 2 to 1 and code went away BUt it still hesitating when I want to accelerate and every time I get out of the truck and touch the body it zaps me. I hacked the wiring nothing is shorting so it’s really strange
Any ideas ?
Thanks
I would verify all of the plugs are still tight and make sure they didn’t come loose for some reason. You shouldn’t be getting zapped unless there’s a poor ground. If all the plugs are tight I would probably replace the #2 coil. Also not sure if you already knew or not but the cylinder layout on Fords are different than the typical engine. I’d look up your engine’s cylinder layout to make sure you’re messing with the right cylinder.
I agree with Tony the truck guy on checking plugs & changing coil. I would suggest for the problem about you getting zapped & I know it sounds stupid. Get an old bungee strap, preferrably a flat one & fasten it to the truck somewhere metal, running board bumper, any as such & leave it long enough to touch the ground when stopped. Do NOT leave the hooks on it. That way everytime you stop it will touch the ground if only by an inch or so. Bet you will find within a day or so unless your clothing is causing a static build up that it will stop zapping you.I had an older 80's Chevy pickup 7 an early 90's Freightliner do the same thig & that little trick stopped both of them from doing it. Worth a try anyways. Good luck.
Clean ground on right framerail
Why make it difficult if you wanna find outy which coil isnt working strt the vehicle let it get to operating temperature and then listen to motor for a minute get a feel of how it sounds before you do anything so that you know when something changes do one at a time unplug a coil if the sound of motor doesnt change then most likely that coil is bad hook it back up move to next one and so on till you get to last one..
like!!!
You mentioned the truck is your gf's...and you're not a fan. What, specificlly, are the issues you have in regards to this particular year(s), model, etc?
It just seems like every time I work on a Ford in general, I have a hard time due to poor design. The 5.4 in particular has its fair share of issues from spark plugs breaking to cam phasers going out.
Yup number one best selling truck of all time? There's a lot of suckers out there.@@TonyTheTruckGuy
How did you hold the Coil BOLT in the drive extension without it falling out before you started threading???
Just installing the little bolts that hold the coils down? I believe I just started them by hand first, but you could also put a little gob of grease in your socket to hold them for you. They also make extensions that have small magnets on the end, or you could just glue a small magnet to your extension.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy Thank you !
@@Stevenshae77 Thanks !
Those coils are not OEM ford pieces! They would say Motorcraft on top if they were Factory Ford coils. I snag as many as I can at pick & pull and i happen to know the real deal from the fakes! I hear tell that if you purchase coils from E-Bay that they are not real ford parts.
Pretty sure these were directly from a Ford dealer and they did come in a Motorcraft bag but idk lol.
Apologies. Or a mono pod
My coil no spark g6 engine
Did you follow the video to troubleshoot?
I just noticed she only had a 1/4 tank of gas, tell her coming from another woman she needs to keep it filled more because I messed up several fuel pumps doing that even after my mechanic dad got on to me lol.
I can’t talk too much cause I typically fill my tank all the way and run it to damn near empty 😂 I know it’s harder on the fuel pump I just hate stopping for fuel when it’s not actually needed haha
I have a 2010 f150 5.4 and only when I am going up hill it seems to have a slight miss. I can get on it going uphill and it doesnt miss or anything it's only when I'm gradually going uphill. It's got 90k on it i just replaced plugs on it. I'm thinking it might be a bad or weak coil. It's just weird how it will only do it while driving up a hill.
Yeah it’s weird but when it’s an issues related to something like this, it seems to do worse when going light on the throttle under load. This truck would run a bit better if you floored it, but you could feel it hiccuping if just cruising and you hit a small hill. This truck ended up having multiple cracked spark plugs. I’d double check all your plugs are tight, then swap around coils if needed and see if any codes pop up or switch locations.
4:45 😂😂😂
Automotive design sucks and should include the mechanics in mind. Build these trucks were you have room to work on them. Don't lay a/c, wires and vacume tunes over the coils.
The new stuff is 100X worse, sadly.
Yes gen 10 Ford's were bad about clearance to get to rear plugs coils and injectors.
Wish my daughter was dating a guy whose mechanically inclined but unfortunately he is a dumbass so therfore I have to fix everything lol. Thanks for the video
😂😂 Tell him to watch the video and get to work haha
@@TonyTheTruckGuy lol!! Dude calls me to put his wiper blade on!
@@HUFF-N-PUFF-2024 Tell him I have videos on wiper blades as well 😂
Put a cover on that steering wheel.
You probably didn’t see it since it’s partially camo
So dirty engine bay
It's not new! I heard a mechanic complaining about dirty older cars! You shouldn't have to do much to a new vehicle but thats what everyone works on today!
Yeah the truck sat outside a lot. I'm not a fan of pressure washing engine bays though, I've seen water cause too many issues with computers and electrical connectors.
Oh my bad, it does have a steering wheel cover, dude you need to change that steering wheel cover.
Why?