Good video, I have been changing sparkplugs in small engines since I was 12 yrs old. I am 79 now. You answered my many questions about the actual condition of those spark plugs. Your explanation of how to test them is the best I've ever heard. Richard Thank you!
Your video saved me a lot of time. Yamaha Beartracker 250 ran great after carb cleaning and then would not fire 4 days later. I assumed the carb again, cleaned and rebuilt again with new kit. Still not firing. I checked for spark with inline tester and the tester was getting spark. My spark plug was intermittently failing and your video told me how to confirm the plug was shorted. Thank you.
Don't know if you'll get to see this comment. I would like to thank you for your video. I have been flabbergasted trying to get my multi function strimmer going. I always thought I was good with engines. I had a good spark on my coil according to my tester; although my plug didn't seem so good. I reset the flywheel gap, changed the carburetor and just about tried everything but change the plug. I had two plugs which looked in perfect condition, but after doing your test with my own multi meter they both had a zero reading, but a plug from a different machine had a 5+ ~ a bit of a coincedence the two plugs being duds. A lot of people would have given up and put it into a repair shop; who would have charged well over for a repair. I still need to get a plug and try the machine but it seems my problem (fingers crossed) could be solved thanks to you.
Great video. Very informative. I used to test spark plug wires by grabbing a hold of them. After getting shocked I sure learned my lesson. Always wear a helmet in case you bang your Head on the hood
Sorry to say but,,,, the test is incomplete but fun to play with a multimeter. Think of your spark plug like the canary in a coal mine. It will let you know how things are going inside. Garden equipment is notorious for fouling from dirty oil and plugged air box and OLD ETHANOL GAS. add sea foam conditioner to stabilize your fuel . SO, look closely to the tip of the plug where it sparks. A black tip can be from no air flow causing a rich condition or too much fuel or lean is pure white from a vacuum leak likely a hose or carb is loose. Wet is not ...working at all or very little so ideally you want to see off white to very light grey. Oil fouling is obvious from the blue smoke if it runs. If the insulator is cracked and an issue it will back fire or misfire especially under a load . Visually you will see a crack line and feel a crack and see that carbon is in the crack from the arching to ground. USE YOUR MULTIMETER to test the resistance of your leads or plug wires too, if you don’t your test is incomplete. If it misfires under load the wire could be cracked and will be grounding under load. ZAP ZAP ! Take a good look by flexing the wire to open a crack. It will also have a carbon build up from arching to ground. Do a little brake stand in a vehicle or engage the drive on a mower to put a load on the engine warmed up no more than 30 seconds or you will damage your trans. If you have this condition do plugs first, then move on if it is still there and seek a pro for a second opinion. The helmet is a great idea especially if you are standing on wet ground or better yet leaning on a chrome wheel trim in your boxers if you are bare handing a wire. As a friend or neighbor to hold it while you crank it over. Clean some plugs on a small block 100k beauty or stant 6 sure, not a modern car please. The electrode tip where it makes a spark was much bigger, now smaller and fancy metal so it self cleans. Wire brushing or wire wheeling will scratch the porcelain and weaken it . It will look cleaner but won’t last very long like say 20 thousand miles stuff. So, leaving your oil change too long way past 50 % , which also means only 50% of your oil is kind of healthy right ? NO , NOPE , NOT AT ALL, HOT DIRTY OIL , ok I made my point, will not have any lubrications so you can feel it in your fingers. Off of your dipstick feel it compared to fresh. Like your toothpaste the grit is fine. Unlike toothpaste it has to work when it is so hot it will start to smoke dirty oil smokes inside and then stuff happens because it won’t lube the metal to metal anymore so bye bye timing gears and chain on your double overhead variable valve aluminum machine. Please remember what you promised to your mom to wear your helmet.🤠
Me too. This was fantastic although I chased everything else for the better part of two days during this time off from work. Oh well it kept off the streets and out trouble.
Great video for ruling out the plug itself ..... Although your multimeter leads are insert wrongly lol..... Black goes into the COM port ..... But in a resistance or continuity test it doesnt matter..... But in a current test it does
Here’s something new. I didn’t know people test spark plugs anymore. I haven’t been in an engine compartment in decades let alone know where the spark plugs are, this from a guy who used to be a shade tree mechanic back in the day in Florida. It is good to know that this technology is still available. Good video.
Thanks for this very useful info. At the VW workshop, we had a spark plug tester back in the day where we tested ALL spark plugs, weather old or new. Now you gave me another way to test them....thanks a million☝️🙏
It's a nice video. In my opinion, in order to check whether the spark plug has failed or not, it is necessary to check the insulation resistance between the stud terminal and the shell (ground) in addition to the internal resistance. Insulation resistance is to check whether there are any defects that reduce insulation performance, such as internal cracks or pinholes, and can be measured using a mega-tester. In most cases, carbon deposition in the spark plug firing end is caused by incomplete combustion of fuel injected into the combustion chamber due to misfire caused by various factors other than the spark plug's defects. Please note.
Well, I learned something! The 'megga-tester'......your regular VOM tester only puts out about 9 volts max. Megga testers can put out up to 1,000 volts. The higher voltage forces insulation resistance problems to show up faster.
great video sir, this video is very helpful. My generator would not start it only backfires so i thought the engine has spark if it's backfiring but upon testing the plug as you showed, sure enough, the plug was faulty. you saved me from buying a new Generator. thankyou.
This spark plug ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx-6W-PtUzBRTmACHywsECak2ToY2OpjxN is a quality made replacement for the old Briggs and Stratton 799876 which has been discontinued. This plug fits most Briggs and Stratton 625 engines made since 2011. Most of these engines also have the air gap set to .020, but it is highly recommended to check in your user manual for actual application.
Great video. Just want to add something from my own experience. I had a petrol lawn mower that started great and ran for 5 mins, then died. Did this everytime, time after time. Once it had cooled enough for me to check, the spark plug appeared fine. - sparked strong, no carbon, etc. So I spent hours checking the carb and fuel lines thinking the problem must be there. Last shot, I decided to order and put in a new spark plug anyway. Problem sorted! So, a cold/cool spark plug may test as fine, but the same plug when warmer, or hotter (metal expands!), may be faulty. You live and learn :D
Great video, thanks. Nice and clear. My good old dad taught me a lot about stuff, but not that! And I now know yes, my lawnmower’s spark plug is indeed bust!
How to test spark plug resistance in one minute. There are several other factors that can affect spark plug failure even though the resistance may be good The insulator may be cracked the spark plug may be fouled or worn out. Check the ceramic insulator on the inside of the spark plug with a light and a magnifying glass. Look for carbon tracking leading from the electrode along the insulator to the body. The shape of the electrode should have a squared edge on the end of it, as the spark plug wears the end of the electrode becomes rounded. A squared edge give a much better cleaner spark than a rounded edge. Also check the insulator on the inside of the spark plug for wetness or oil fouling as these things may provide a path for the spark to bypass the insulator. Last but not least the gap is important. Also the shape of the grounding tab that you bend for the gap this can also be rounded or thinned out on a well worn spark plug. Dont bend it back and forth more than necessary to simply set the gap, you dont want that thing falling off inside the engine
I'm gonna disagree on the square edge gives a better spark. If that is correct, then about every racer from smoky yunick to Richard petty has been wrong. Electricity like air and water, flows easier across rounded edges, square edges cause turbulence and hot spots, which are both bad.
@@prestongodsey3567 when you buy a new spark plug the electrode has a nice sharp square edge on it, never heard of rounding the electrode off on purpose. I'm not so sure what Richard Petty does to his race car spark plugs but I know he doesnt enter any race with a lawnmower engine.
Power secrets by smoky yunick. There is an entry about preparing spark plugs. Also 20yrs of n2o foxbody mustangs + 35yrs of 2stroke bikes and quads has taught me plenty about plugs
Most often I can tell what fuel and how much of a spray is being used by looking at the plugs. They say 10k hrs to be a master, I'm a grand master of plugs at this point
Probably because they are testing for different problems. The test he performed checks for a bad resistor or other problem with the inner electrode. The other test checks for a conductivity between the inner and outer electrodes which shouldn't exist. Having a bad inner electrode doesn't mean testing the outer electrode will confirm the problem. Once he found the first problem, he stopped.
Just because the plug passes a resistance test does not mean that it will fire correctly under combustion. Fouled plugs can cause shorting through the insulator at the firing end without you knowing unless you have a special plug tester/ cleaner. These testers were used many decades ago before mechanics realized it was a waste of time. Just buy a new plug and correct the fouling problem.
i am 88 yrs old worked on engs a long time can not remember last i bought a new plug i just blast old dirty oily plugs to restore like new ( small blaster harbor freught sells works very good at 100 psi with fine media then rinse in a little gas to remove any media laying around the post------- i read this carbon path only on highest ohm scale try it next time
Absolutely agree. No doubt this technique will find _some_ failures, but I’ve had a couple cases were the plugs will only fail hot. A mechanic friend of mine confirmed that this is not all that uncommon. Presumably, there can be some internal fractures that somehow open up - perhaps by being pulled apart by the expanding steel on the ends. Regardless, this test would be useless on them. Even in this economy, the hit to the wallet by a new plug is much preferred over a headache from a dodgy one.
@@frankdavidson9675 I usually hit fouled plugs with a bit of brake cleaner and a wire bush. A blaster does sound like an effective plan, if you have one available.
The problem with this test shown is that the multi meter will only apply around 6V to the spark plug and does not test the ceramic insulator integrity. The spark plug runs in the kilovolt x 10 range which increases as as load is placed on the engine which is why many ignition faults such as spark breakdown occur under load like driving up a hill. Contaminants on the insulator, carbon deposits wear of the electrode and cracking of the ceramic insulator often cause faults. The best way to observe the real performance of an ignition system is by using an oscilloscope. A Megga (insulation tester) could be used but even that is only testing at around 1.0kv….
@@karhukivi set your ohmeter on the highest ohm setting if you get a reading tiptop to bottom hook its carbon buildup on the post at bottom of plug you can clean that carbon out by by blasting plug is good as new been doing this for years
Gotta use a plug cleaner/tester. They can test the plug's performance under pressure. Any aircraft repair shop has one. Bike shops used to, but most probably don't anymore.
Pretty cool test! When I was much younger, and still in the military, I only had a motorcycle for transpo and I tried sandblasting my plugs to clean them. It ruined them, altho they came out very clean! I still don’t know why that occurred.
old tester machines use to have a sandblaster cleaner section on the machine but they found that the grit left in the plug would be deposited into the cylinder....
Note that this test may identify a 'plug that needs replacing, but it cannot identify a 'plug that is fit for further service. The reason for this lies within ordinary multimeters, which will typically be applying perhaps 6 to 8 volts during the test. A spark plug operates at a pressure somewhere between 8 and 11 atmospheres, and is fed many thousands of volts. A crack in the porcelain insulator will not allow undesirable current leakage from positive to negative electrodes until the 'plug sees this high operating voltage.....which this meter is not able to supply. A failed suppression resistor within the body of the 'plug can however be isolated by this test. Unfortunately there is no substitute for a dedicated spark plug testing machine, (try finding a garage that has one of these now!) and the charge for using this would cut into your budget for buying a new 'plug...so it's not worth it unless the 'plug is rare or very expensive. Not a great idea to clean 'plugs with a wire brush, steel from the brush can potentially deposit onto the porcelain insulator tip and set up unwanted conduction of electricity. Sorry to be so negative!
i use a tiny blaster from harbor freight works like majic that is the only to clean the carbon from porcelain that is pathof least res. wire brush will not go down in there ir rinse after blasting just like new plug when i finish
Thanks! even tho i may not totally understand. - all info seen & read here, can't HtURT. : } TRUTH may HtURT sometimes, but LIES Always do. TRUTH Has Value some refuse to Invest.
spot on Fran , some people don't know what they don't know ..the test will only find a total failure , proper testing often needs to be done under operating conditions , to find intermittent faults or partial failure his requires an oscilloscope .
On German Bosch Spark plugs R0, R1, R5 means Zero resistance, 1000 ohms resistance and 5000 ohms resistance respectively. Spark plugs are best tested using an engine Analyser with Oscilloscope when they are under load, meaning when the engine is running and on different load conditions.
You must be a mechanic, as I have experience in this also. You are correct. However, few people have such access. He is using the meter most people would have to make a generalized assessment as to the plug being within the range of useful life.
Sounds like a *_Catch-22_* where you "test under load" while the engine is running, yet you cannot get the engine to start because the *_Spark Plug_* might be bad ? ...Or, do you take the *_spark plug_* out & put it into a known good engine ?
Any piece of metal with two ends, you're simply testing the integrity of the metal ore causing electrical "Resistance." A single wire strand 10 inches long, touch tester leads to each end (doesn't matter) of the wire strand in OHMS Measuring on your multimeter tool.
In the motorcycle workshop I worked in we had a machine that could supposedly test plugs. You could watch a plug on test sparking away merrily on the rig, yet back in the bike the misfire returned until we put a new set of NGKs in, and in many cases it was problem solved. We didn't have the time to sit and wonder why. You just go with what works when your pay packet depends on it.
When checking resistance; use the apex of the probe to pierce the metal being measured, 'you don't touch the side as you can ground out the probe like you seem to have, use the tip! Also, setting the meter at the Lowest setting will Not damage the meter when checking components out of circuit, there's no voltage! . I use to check out components on an old analog Simpson Meter, It gives a better sense of current flow, when you can see the meter deflection! With a digital meter the numbers are not as easy to read and easily mis-read.
As the electrode gap erodes away, it takes more saturation of the coil for the spark to jump the gap. Don’t bother testing or cleaning or re-gapping old spark plugs. If you’re going to go to the trouble of removing them, put new ones in. I never never never use Champion spark plugs in anything I ever own if I can help it. They do not recover after the first heat cycle to 100% performance..I have experienced it first hand when I roadraced motorcycles.. I won six championships, two time national champion racing motorcycles. Champion gave me boxes of spark plugs free. I tried them, I experienced 300, sometimes 500 RPM loss after the first heat cycle. They are like firecrackers. They’re only good once
That is the biggest load of horse shit ive ever heard. Now just for one minute here come back down to reality for me and have a think about this... If that were true, how would champion still be in business after all these years?
Champion were the word ,the main man in plugs Long time ago,NGK.no problem ever,never had a bad one,44 years in the industry, looking back,ring condensers and points were a pain always failing,cbs bounce causing ignition timing problems, connecting a timing light, the strobe would be erratic, old mini's.
Very nice and informative video but You indeed forgot one thing. If porcelain is broken below the metal surface, most likely you will not get any ohm reading but still when the spark plug working, the voltage which produces a spark is very high 10k or more volts, and such voltage will jump to the ground there where is the closest spot. Cracked porcelain inside of spark plug will cause spark jump there not where it should.
kind of far fetched the ground of a spark plug is where the threads are along with hook on the bottom when a plug fails its easyer for current to flow in the carbon to gd that jump a gap so no spark if you clean that dirty plug its good as new can remember last time i bought new plugs been cleaning with blaster for years
Yes, and he should refer to the reading correctly. It is 5K (5,000) ohms to 6K (6,000) ohms not 5 to 6 ohms! Most quality meters (and even some that are "budget" meters) will show a "K" (thousand) or "M" (Million) or no indication for the actual reading. 1 ohm (no indicator or the ohms [Omega] symbol), 1K (1,000), 1M (1,000,000 or 1 Mega-ohm).
Is it any good testing something that works on over 1000volts with a 9vòlt multi meter /i don't think so/ how can you do a imsulation break down test with 9volts imposible /not posible joker
I wasn't able to tell where you were Touching on the non ceramic side of the plug because of camera angle etc. Is it the outermost edge of the plug consisting of the angle shape piece of metal or the tip that is just enclosed By that metal piece? Thx
Just a technicality, you said there was no resistance between the center electrode and the ground (screw in portion). This isn't quite accurate since resistance is the amount of blockage offered to the flow of electricity, you do still have resistance (in fact, a lot of it). It should actually be infinite resistance. Had you said no continuity between the center electrode and ground, I'd agree with you.
Faulty spark plugs were always a bit of a mystery to me, especially since most of them look shiny and new. Now that I know how to test them, it sure will reduce the guesswork and help to separate the fishing anchor from the good ones. 👍
Testing a spark plug with dc continuity on low voltage is a test that is not rely testing the plug to the fullest. For instance the insulation might have a crack in it and the spark could be sparking inside the plug and not where it is suppose to, or a false positive test. And a high voltage AC current jumps across where DC can not cross. And checking the gap to be the correct distance is also important.
But if the test done like shown and the continuity reads zero then the plug is defective regardless if it would somehow work by bridging over gaps using higher voltages.
Spark plugs can can have fire when tested outside of the combustion chamber. and can loose fire in the combustion chamber under compression although it's rare. and the tip you referred to is known as the electrode.
I’ve seen it many times. Mostly with champion plugs, even new out of the box. It’ll make you pull you’re hair out chasing an issue when you know you just replaced the plugs.
That’s all well and good but you didn’t even mention gapping the plug. Used plugs need to be checked for the proper gap between the electrode and the ground (hook). Even new plugs should be checked and adjusted. For the price of plugs, I always toss the old ones and replace with new when doing an engine service.
Great how to check. I've found there are 2 resistor types the good one, they have a solid core, the bad ones have carbon grains in the these are deceptivly nasty as they grains over time break down into smaller pieces and settle. Once this happens it sparks internally slowly destroying the grains and the longer they are used the worse it gets plus you get carbon tracking internally making them "look good" even if the gap is now to big to actually fire. Unless you have something like electronic ignition with similar output to a cars (they just keep ramping up the voltage until it can spark but also making for hard starting even on cars).
must correct you on resistance and continuity,if there's a low reading at the base the threaded part and electrode it means it has high continuity not high resistance .
There is a lot more goes wrong with sparkplugs than a faulty resistor. Testing a sparkplug at 20 deg C and a few volts is not a good indication that it is OK at 400+ deg.C and 30,000 Volts. Misfires will destroy a catalytic convertor in a very short time.
nice video man, if you'd want to check a spark plug before you put it in said small engine.. this is a great way to check a spark plug on resistance value and whether or not it is still okay to use. i checked my plug right after this vid, and its still a-okay.
You say for the second spark plug "there's no reading so there's no resistance" . In fact, no reading means an infinite resistance ( because no current can pass in the electrode). the higher the number is, the highest the difficulty to current to travel. From an old motorcycle mecanic.
If you are not familiar in the automotive industry with the Ohms symbol, start preparing to look for another line of work, not even for a weekend warrior....I test my spark plugs by telling my helper to hold it with the cable in the " distributor " while I crank the engine to check for spark, now be sure you can outrun the helper....🙂🤙
Oldest trick in the book. Still a good one. The other was to charge a condenser, then toss it to the "new guy" saying "catch!" Yep, he gets 20,000 volts for a fraction of a second. And hates you. Until he pulls the same trick on the next new guy...
For short circuit with points other than tip of the spark plug, why don't you set multimeter to short circuit test setting, with symbol of diode? Which gives out a beep in case of a short circuit...
This is a good video and thanks for making it. However folks need to know that this simple test can detect a bad plug - BUT - most bad plugs can also pass this simple test. So like a lot of reviewers have said below, it’s really not a good way to test spark plugs.
What if the multimeter jumps all over the place while doing this test? Jumps between 7 and 19 and everything in between. When I did the multimeter test, it did drop to zero so I think the multimeter is good.
Just because it sparks doesn't necessarily mean that the spark plug is good. It has to be a strong healthy bluish white spark to be good. I would class an orange spark as a weak spark and might not be strong enough to do the job. I've had this on motorcycles that I have had, the plug sparks but not strong enough 😁👍
Thanks man. Needed a quick refresher. Not getting any spark on an old leaf blower. Hoping it’s a easy spark plug, but it may be more than that. Keep up the good work
It's pretty much impossible to get a spark plug apart without destroying it, and therefore destroying evidence of the failure. Even cutting it in half would likely shatter the porcelain and the fragile center electrode.
sorry my meter dont read max it onle reads ohms any reading is bad top post to gd or threads if you esee nothing that is good if you have a carbon path youwill see it on highest scale that what i mean by any res. i dont know how to say it any clearer
one more time --- a bad test on a spark plug is with 1 clip on top of plug the other conn. to hookon the bttom with your meter on its highest scale on ohms 200.000- 300.000 what ever on an analog meter the needle will show somthing -move off infinity that tells me the plug will miss fire because of the carbon build up on the post at the bottom of the plug if you get no reading that tells me the plug is good --- the only to save that plug with the carbon buildup is the small sand blaster plug cleaner with 90 lps press. it will clean that plug as good as new i use this method often
@@deanshafer2699 I would have to disagree. Ohms tells you the strength or weakness of the resistance in a circuit. Continuity just tells you theres a connection between two points.
Hey, I am using 20k settjng and getting 5,35, 4,94, 4,78 and 4,64. All the same brand, has R on it. I am wonder if these readings below 5 may impact fuel economy in any way? No resistance anywhere else besides the tip.
allow me to shed some light on cleaning and testing spark plugs 99% of the time a plug fails from carbon build up around the center post on the bottom of the plug test it this way set meter on highest ohm scale touch the leads togeather should read zero now connect i lead to top of plug the other lead to the (hook) bottom of plug if you get any reading at all you are reading threw the carbon buildup is the bottom i use a small plug cleaner (sand blasterT harbor freight to clean my plugs like new now after cleaning the dirty plug test again the reading will be gone its just like new i have had this same blaster 5 yrs cain not remember last time i bought a new plug
I’m sorry but that is total rubbish yes if your plugs are caked with carbon then your mixture is out………plugs wear on the tip simply because 250000 v flowing through
Thanks for your time and help, I have 3.0 liters engine ans the 6 spark plugs, iridium give me a reading of 3200 all of them, Are they bad or are ok you say 5 to 15, and now i worry
To explain that better, different types and brands will have different readings that are their normal. Does the number on your spark plug start with an R like his did?
Just a caution the more expensive iridium and platinum plugs used in automobiles are coated on the tips with those metals respectively. You are not supposed to check the gap on those plugs because these metals can be so easily scraped off by a gapping tool. If you are touching the tip with a volt-ohm meter probe, then you are taking a risk of damaging the tip by removing some of these metal coatings. However, the spark plugs shown in this video are used in gas powered lawnmowers, weed whackers, chainsaws, and leaf blowers, and are generally the cheaper type of plug that y can test this way. You can spray off the carbon deposits on the iridium & platinum plugs, but again using a brush, sandpaper, or any other thing to scrub these coated metal tipped plugs is a no no.
That is not the way to check a spark plug, checking for continuity or resistance tells you very little. There are lots of similar videos on youtube and they are all as clueless. Similarly checking a spark plug by removing it from a cylinder head, leaving it connected and earthing it to check for a spark is also wrong. You may get away with these methods for a while but the day will come where you will be suckered by them and you will end up tearing your hair out or tearing your engine apart looking for the fault when all along it was the spark plug. Why your method is not correct is because you are using the very low voltage of your DMM. High voltages can and will arc across carbon deposits which can either weaken the spark or earth the spark altogether. Using the other method of testing outside a cylinder for spark also tells you very little. Faulty spark plugs can spark in free air, but under compression they can fail completely or give a very weak spark that's easily affected by fuel or oil. It takes more voltage to produce a spark under compression than it does in ambient. In order to test a spark plug in ambient pressure the spark gap must be increased according to the engine's compression ratio. DMM's are not spark plug testers (or coil testers), you might as well just replace the spark plug with a new one if you suspect it and that will tell you, it's also easier.
@@metalhalide4043 No not over complicated, but maybe over your head. Read what I said. A typical DMM uses 5 to 12 volts for the ohms check function. A small engine can produce 20,000 60,000 volts on the ignition. That sort of voltage can easily make a short in the plug over carbon deposits either completely or partially. What is so hard to understand about that?
@@metalhalide4043 I'm not sure why I am bothering with you, nothing else to do right now I suppose. We are talking about spark plugs, not correcting issues by re-conditioning engines. You go ahead and test spark plugs with a DMM if it makes you happy because thinking beyond that is beyond your comprehension. However if one day you if see a spark plug tester and want to expand your thinking a bit buy a spark plug tester. Some even allow you to set them so you can account for compression of air. Personally the method I use is to substitute the old spark plug with a new one.
@@metalhalide4043 I haven't changed the iridium spark plugs in my SUV for years, though I do check them from time to time, I only replace them when they get too worn. However I do have small engines and a 4WD that does not use computerized crap and you do need more mechanical knowledge than simply changing oil and an air filter on those machines if you in the very least do your own services. I repair all of my stuff, from mechanical to electronic. I have a workshop with tools for just about everything. I was lucky enough to have a father who was a top engineer with caterpillar and I did my "apprenticeship" under him. My formal education was in electronics and I have a full pro lab for that. I did spend some time servicing vehicle ECU's, lucrative but a bit boring as most faults are mostly related to moisture or water ingress and subsequent corrosion, conformal coatings used on them will only last so long before they break down. Other common problems are with driver parts, again, pretty basic stuff.
@@allansmith6140 You are wasting your time my friend, it is obvious that some people will not comprehend it and are hell bent to bugger on with their beliefs so trying to explain to them is futile.
Good video but it's really only part of the picture. I've had plugs that leaked around the porcelain, either cracked insulator or bad manufacturing. I had a set of new plugs in my car once and opened the hood at night and you could see 'corona' around the insulator body where it meets the metal part of the plug. Car ran fine but the plugs were leaking voltage.
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Good information. Did not know how to test a spark plug using a multimeter earlier.
I'm using AC Delco iridium.
I avoid Bosch platinum on American cars.
Hello
Good
Good video, I have been changing sparkplugs in small engines since I was 12 yrs old. I am 79 now. You answered my many questions about the actual condition of those spark plugs. Your explanation of how to test them is the best I've ever heard.
Richard
Thank you!
You’re welcome.
do some research. this is not a good method at all. read some of the other replies here where they explain why this is wrong.
No you're thinking of your mom who uses a mule to get plowed
@@stephenlotto4364 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Your video saved me a lot of time. Yamaha Beartracker 250 ran great after carb cleaning and then would not fire 4 days later. I assumed the carb again, cleaned and rebuilt again with new kit. Still not firing. I checked for spark with inline tester and the tester was getting spark. My spark plug was intermittently failing and your video told me how to confirm the plug was shorted. Thank you.
I’m glad you figured it out!
Don't know if you'll get to see this comment. I would like to thank you for your video. I have been flabbergasted trying to get my multi function strimmer going. I always thought I was good with engines. I had a good spark on my coil according to my tester; although my plug didn't seem so good. I reset the flywheel gap, changed the carburetor and just about tried everything but change the plug. I had two plugs which looked in perfect condition, but after doing your test with my own multi meter they both had a zero reading, but a plug from a different machine had a 5+ ~ a bit of a coincedence the two plugs being duds. A lot of people would have given up and put it into a repair shop; who would have charged well over for a repair. I still need to get a plug and try the machine but it seems my problem (fingers crossed) could be solved thanks to you.
I’m glad you were able to get it fixed! Thanks for following along!
4 yrs later, and still helping people.
Thank you!🖖😎👍
Glad to help
Great video. Very informative.
I used to test spark plug wires by grabbing a hold of them. After getting shocked I sure learned my lesson. Always wear a helmet in case you bang your Head on the hood
😅😅😅
Sorry to say but,,,, the test is incomplete but fun to play with a multimeter. Think of your spark plug like the canary in a coal mine. It will let you know how things are going inside. Garden equipment is notorious for fouling from dirty oil and plugged air box and OLD ETHANOL GAS. add sea foam conditioner to stabilize your fuel . SO, look closely to the tip of the plug where it sparks. A black tip can be from no air flow causing a rich condition or too much fuel or lean is pure white from a vacuum leak likely a hose or carb is loose. Wet is not ...working at all or very little so ideally you want to see off white to very light grey. Oil fouling is obvious from the blue smoke if it runs. If the insulator is cracked and an issue it will back fire or misfire especially under a load . Visually you will see a crack line and feel a crack and see that carbon is in the crack from the arching to ground. USE YOUR MULTIMETER to test the resistance of your leads or plug wires too, if you don’t your test is incomplete. If it misfires under load the wire could be cracked and will be grounding under load. ZAP ZAP ! Take a good look by flexing the wire to open a crack. It will also have a carbon build up from arching to ground. Do a little brake stand in a vehicle or engage the drive on a mower to put a load on the engine warmed up no more than 30 seconds or you will damage your trans. If you have this condition do plugs first, then move on if it is still there and seek a pro for a second opinion. The helmet is a great idea especially if you are standing on wet ground or better yet leaning on a chrome wheel trim in your boxers if you are bare handing a wire. As a friend or neighbor to hold it while you crank it over. Clean some plugs on a small block 100k beauty or stant 6 sure, not a modern car please. The electrode tip where it makes a spark was much bigger, now smaller and fancy metal so it self cleans. Wire brushing or wire wheeling will scratch the porcelain and weaken it . It will look cleaner but won’t last very long like say 20 thousand miles stuff. So, leaving your oil change too long way past 50 % , which also means only 50% of your oil is kind of healthy right ? NO , NOPE , NOT AT ALL, HOT DIRTY OIL , ok I made my point, will not have any lubrications so you can feel it in your fingers. Off of your dipstick feel it compared to fresh. Like your toothpaste the grit is fine. Unlike toothpaste it has to work when it is so hot it will start to smoke dirty oil smokes inside and then stuff happens because it won’t lube the metal to metal anymore so bye bye timing gears and chain on your double overhead variable valve aluminum machine. Please remember what you promised to your mom to wear your helmet.🤠
Do you piss on an electric fence to see if it's working too? 😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅
@@嶋田佳子-f5f
Wow, let's do business, are you in?
😂😂sorry bro
I've never had a spark plug go bad until today. Fantastic video!!! I was able to determine that one spark plug failed.
Thanks! I’m glad it helped!
Me too. This was fantastic although I chased everything else for the better part of two days during this time off from work. Oh well it kept off the streets and out trouble.
Swap them.over,easy .
What made you check?
Great video for ruling out the plug itself ..... Although your multimeter leads are insert wrongly lol..... Black goes into the COM port ..... But in a resistance or continuity test it doesnt matter..... But in a current test it does
😂
Most informative video I've ever watched on how to test something. Voice tone and cadence make it very easy to digest info. Well done ol chap!
Thank you!
the best explanation and detailed I have ever seen on UA-cam
Here’s something new. I didn’t know people test spark plugs anymore. I haven’t been in an engine compartment in decades let alone know where the spark plugs are, this from a guy who used to be a shade tree mechanic back in the day in Florida. It is good to know that this technology is still available. Good video.
Thanks for this very useful info. At the VW workshop, we had a spark plug tester back in the day where we tested ALL spark plugs, weather old or new. Now you gave me another way to test them....thanks a million☝️🙏
@Andries Viljoen my mk1 is burning a lot more fuel then it used to, any ideas what could be the cause(injected 1.6)
@@maharaj87 your O2 sensor has failed, telling the ECM to inject more fuel than it needs
or a temp sensor is telling the ECM the engine is at -90°C
It's a nice video. In my opinion, in order to check whether the spark plug has failed or not, it is necessary to check the insulation resistance between the stud terminal and the shell (ground) in addition to the internal resistance. Insulation resistance is to check whether there are any defects that reduce insulation performance, such as internal cracks or pinholes, and can be measured using a mega-tester. In most cases, carbon deposition in the spark plug firing end is caused by incomplete combustion of fuel injected into the combustion chamber due to misfire caused by various factors other than the spark plug's defects. Please note.
Well, I learned something! The 'megga-tester'......your regular VOM tester only puts out about 9 volts max. Megga testers can put out up to 1,000 volts. The higher voltage forces insulation resistance problems to show up faster.
It's Megger.
I made a bench top spark slug tester from an old CRT TV EHT circuit,
Make a video 🤠
great video sir, this video is very helpful. My generator would not start it only backfires so i thought the engine has spark if it's backfiring but upon testing the plug as you showed, sure enough, the plug was faulty. you saved me from buying a new Generator. thankyou.
Great! I’m glad it worked for you!
This spark plug ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx-6W-PtUzBRTmACHywsECak2ToY2OpjxN is a quality made replacement for the old Briggs and Stratton 799876 which has been discontinued. This plug fits most Briggs and Stratton 625 engines made since 2011. Most of these engines also have the air gap set to .020, but it is highly recommended to check in your user manual for actual application.
Great video. Just want to add something from my own experience. I had a petrol lawn mower that started great and ran for 5 mins, then died. Did this everytime, time after time. Once it had cooled enough for me to check, the spark plug appeared fine. - sparked strong, no carbon, etc. So I spent hours checking the carb and fuel lines thinking the problem must be there. Last shot, I decided to order and put in a new spark plug anyway. Problem sorted! So, a cold/cool spark plug may test as fine, but the same plug when warmer, or hotter (metal expands!), may be faulty. You live and learn :D
Interesting. I’ve never heard of that happening.
Not only can that happen on the plug but other ignition components such as the windings in a magneto.
Great video, thanks. Nice and clear. My good old dad taught me a lot about stuff, but not that! And I now know yes, my lawnmower’s spark plug is indeed bust!
Thanks! Glad you had a good dad too!
How to test spark plug resistance in one minute. There are several other factors that can affect spark plug failure even though the resistance may be good The insulator may be cracked the spark plug may be fouled or worn out. Check the ceramic insulator on the inside of the spark plug with a light and a magnifying glass. Look for carbon tracking leading from the electrode along the insulator to the body. The shape of the electrode should have a squared edge on the end of it, as the spark plug wears the end of the electrode becomes rounded. A squared edge give a much better cleaner spark than a rounded edge. Also check the insulator on the inside of the spark plug for wetness or oil fouling as these things may provide a path for the spark to bypass the insulator. Last but not least the gap is important. Also the shape of the grounding tab that you bend for the gap this can also be rounded or thinned out on a well worn spark plug. Dont bend it back and forth more than necessary to simply set the gap, you dont want that thing falling off inside the engine
I'm gonna disagree on the square edge gives a better spark. If that is correct, then about every racer from smoky yunick to Richard petty has been wrong. Electricity like air and water, flows easier across rounded edges, square edges cause turbulence and hot spots, which are both bad.
@@prestongodsey3567 when you buy a new spark plug the electrode has a nice sharp square edge on it, never heard of rounding the electrode off on purpose. I'm not so sure what Richard Petty does to his race car spark plugs but I know he doesnt enter any race with a lawnmower engine.
Power secrets by smoky yunick. There is an entry about preparing spark plugs. Also 20yrs of n2o foxbody mustangs + 35yrs of 2stroke bikes and quads has taught me plenty about plugs
Most often I can tell what fuel and how much of a spray is being used by looking at the plugs. They say 10k hrs to be a master, I'm a grand master of plugs at this point
Sadly EV's are making that knowledge redundant at an extremely quick pace.
This is the only video I've seen testing spark plugs. It was worth it!!!
Thanks! Glad you liked it!
Why did you not test the entire metal cvr of the busted splug to confirm damage inside, tnx for response nice video?
Probably because they are testing for different problems. The test he performed checks for a bad resistor or other problem with the inner electrode. The other test checks for a conductivity between the inner and outer electrodes which shouldn't exist. Having a bad inner electrode doesn't mean testing the outer electrode will confirm the problem. Once he found the first problem, he stopped.
Comprehensive,short,smart,simple briefing ,thanks
Just because the plug passes a resistance test does not mean that it will fire correctly under combustion. Fouled plugs can cause shorting through the insulator at the firing end without you knowing unless you have a special plug tester/ cleaner. These testers were used many decades ago before mechanics realized it was a waste of time. Just buy a new plug and correct the fouling problem.
i am 88 yrs old worked on engs a long time can not remember last i bought a new plug i just blast old dirty oily plugs to restore like new ( small blaster harbor freught sells works very good at 100 psi with fine media then rinse in a little gas to remove any media laying around the post------- i read this carbon path only on highest ohm scale try it next time
Yeah ser thats the problem with "mechanics" that only know to change things
@@manolomanoki9915 Our intelligence is revealed by the reasoning of our statements and spelling correctness or lack of.
Absolutely agree. No doubt this technique will find _some_ failures, but I’ve had a couple cases were the plugs will only fail hot. A mechanic friend of mine confirmed that this is not all that uncommon. Presumably, there can be some internal fractures that somehow open up - perhaps by being pulled apart by the expanding steel on the ends. Regardless, this test would be useless on them. Even in this economy, the hit to the wallet by a new plug is much preferred over a headache from a dodgy one.
@@frankdavidson9675 I usually hit fouled plugs with a bit of brake cleaner and a wire bush. A blaster does sound like an effective plan, if you have one available.
The problem with this test shown is that the multi meter will only apply around 6V to the spark plug and does not test the ceramic insulator integrity. The spark plug runs in the kilovolt x 10 range which increases as as load is placed on the engine which is why many ignition faults such as spark breakdown occur under load like driving up a hill. Contaminants on the insulator, carbon deposits wear of the electrode and cracking of the ceramic insulator often cause faults. The best way to observe the real performance of an ignition system is by using an oscilloscope. A Megga (insulation tester) could be used but even that is only testing at around 1.0kv….
True but people generally do have a multimeter and not a oscilloscope
Agreed, a multimeter cannot test for HV breakdown which is how most sparkplugs fail.
@@karhukivi set your ohmeter on the highest ohm setting if you get a reading tiptop to bottom hook its carbon buildup on the post at bottom of plug you can clean that carbon out by by blasting plug is good as new been doing this for years
@@frankdavidson9675 Thanks!
Gotta use a plug cleaner/tester. They can test the plug's performance under pressure. Any aircraft repair shop has one. Bike shops used to, but most probably don't anymore.
Pretty cool test! When I was much younger, and still in the military, I only had a motorcycle for transpo and I tried sandblasting my plugs to clean them. It ruined them, altho they came out very clean! I still don’t know why that occurred.
You could have damaged the white part.
old tester machines use to have a sandblaster cleaner section on the machine but they found that the grit left in the plug would be deposited into the cylinder....
@@blueplasma5589 No grit if ya clean em good
Note that this test may identify a 'plug that needs replacing, but it cannot identify a 'plug that is fit for further service. The reason for this lies within ordinary multimeters, which will typically be applying perhaps 6 to 8 volts during the test. A spark plug operates at a pressure somewhere between 8 and 11 atmospheres, and is fed many thousands of volts.
A crack in the porcelain insulator will not allow undesirable current leakage from positive to negative electrodes until the 'plug sees this high operating voltage.....which this meter is not able to supply.
A failed suppression resistor within the body of the 'plug can however be isolated by this test.
Unfortunately there is no substitute for a dedicated spark plug testing machine, (try finding a garage that has one of these now!) and the charge for using this would cut into your budget for buying a new 'plug...so it's not worth it unless the 'plug is rare or very expensive. Not a great idea to clean 'plugs with a wire brush, steel from the brush can potentially deposit onto the porcelain insulator tip and set up unwanted conduction of electricity. Sorry to be so negative!
Good info, but air blow after wire cleaning is always best
i use a tiny blaster from harbor freight works like majic that is the only to clean the carbon from porcelain that is pathof least res. wire brush will not go down in there ir rinse after blasting just like new plug when i finish
Thanks! even tho i may not totally understand. - all info seen & read here, can't HtURT. : }
TRUTH may HtURT sometimes, but LIES Always do. TRUTH Has Value some refuse to Invest.
you are 100% correct. this guy is giving bad advice. he does not know what is wrong with what he is doing.
spot on Fran , some people don't know what they don't know ..the test will only find a total failure , proper testing often needs to be done under operating conditions , to find intermittent faults or partial failure his requires an oscilloscope .
On German Bosch Spark plugs R0, R1, R5 means Zero resistance, 1000 ohms resistance and 5000 ohms resistance respectively. Spark plugs are best tested using an engine Analyser with Oscilloscope when they are under load, meaning when the engine is running and on different load conditions.
You must be a mechanic, as I have experience in this also. You are correct. However, few people have such access. He is using the meter most people would have to make a generalized assessment as to the plug being within the range of useful life.
Sounds like a *_Catch-22_* where you "test under load" while the engine is running, yet you cannot get the engine to start because the *_Spark Plug_* might be bad ?
...Or, do you take the *_spark plug_* out & put it into a known good engine ?
I have never known to be able to test a plug , very informative.👍🏼
Any piece of metal with two ends, you're simply testing the integrity of the metal ore causing electrical "Resistance." A single wire strand 10 inches long, touch tester leads to each end (doesn't matter) of the wire strand in OHMS Measuring on your multimeter tool.
In the motorcycle workshop I worked in we had a machine that could supposedly test plugs. You could watch a plug on test sparking away merrily on the rig, yet back in the bike the misfire returned until we put a new set of NGKs in, and in many cases it was problem solved. We didn't have the time to sit and wonder why. You just go with what works when your pay packet depends on it.
@@timhancock6626 but one should know how it works.
When checking resistance; use the apex of the probe to pierce the metal being measured, 'you don't touch the side as you can ground out the probe like you seem to have, use the tip! Also, setting the meter at the Lowest setting will Not damage the meter when checking components out of circuit, there's no voltage! .
I use to check out components on an old analog Simpson Meter, It gives a better sense of current flow, when you can see the meter deflection! With a digital meter the numbers are not as easy to read and easily mis-read.
appreciate the thorough explaining of the sparkplug.
My pleasure!
Thxs nice too know......Does this also apply to plugs for a car??
I sure does.
Same thing
As the electrode gap erodes away, it takes more saturation of the coil for the spark to jump the gap. Don’t bother testing or cleaning or re-gapping old spark plugs. If you’re going to go to the trouble of removing them, put new ones in.
I never never never use Champion spark plugs in anything I ever own if I can help it. They do not recover after the first heat cycle to 100% performance..I have experienced it first hand when I roadraced motorcycles.. I won six championships, two time national champion racing motorcycles. Champion gave me boxes of spark plugs free. I tried them, I experienced 300, sometimes 500 RPM loss after the first heat cycle. They are like firecrackers. They’re only good once
it a shame a company wastes the world's resources on something not fit for its purpose (not the first time i have heard bad things about champion)
That is the biggest load of horse shit ive ever heard. Now just for one minute here come back down to reality for me and have a think about this... If that were true, how would champion still be in business after all these years?
@@5150powder perhaps you need to re-read his comment? You obviously didn't understand what he said. What he stated is 100% correct!
@@GripFreak he got a bad batch. Thats all.
Champion were the word ,the main man in plugs Long time ago,NGK.no problem ever,never had a bad one,44 years in the industry, looking back,ring condensers and points were a pain always failing,cbs bounce causing ignition timing problems, connecting a timing light, the strobe would be erratic, old mini's.
Very nice and informative video but You indeed forgot one thing. If porcelain is broken below the metal surface, most likely you will not get any ohm reading but still when the spark plug working, the voltage which produces a spark is very high 10k or more volts, and such voltage will jump to the ground there where is the closest spot. Cracked porcelain inside of spark plug will cause spark jump there not where it should.
kind of far fetched the ground of a spark plug is where the threads are along with hook on the bottom when a plug fails its easyer for current to flow in the carbon to gd that jump a gap so no spark if you clean that dirty plug its good as new can remember last time i bought new plugs been cleaning with blaster for years
Your meter is set to the 20K 0hms range, So when you say five ohms for instance, you mean 5k ohms, or 5,000 ohms correct?
Yes, and he should refer to the reading correctly. It is 5K (5,000) ohms to 6K (6,000) ohms not 5 to 6 ohms!
Most quality meters (and even some that are "budget" meters) will show a "K" (thousand) or "M" (Million) or no indication for the actual reading. 1 ohm (no indicator or the ohms [Omega] symbol), 1K (1,000), 1M (1,000,000 or 1 Mega-ohm).
thank you finally someone who explain it this good.
Glad it was helpful!
It was one of the best video in this regard.
Thanks!
Didn't know you could test plugs. I would always put plug in spark plug wire ground and hit starter to see how much spark there was. Thank you
Is it any good testing something that works on over 1000volts with a 9vòlt multi meter /i don't think so/ how can you do a imsulation break down test with 9volts imposible /not posible joker
I wasn't able to tell where you were Touching on the non ceramic side of the plug because of camera angle etc. Is it the outermost edge of the plug consisting of the angle shape piece of metal or the tip that is just enclosed By that metal piece? Thx
You aren’t touching the metal hook piece. It’s the tip of the plug
Learn something new every day. Thanks man.
Hello friend how you can know which setting you need to use on the multimeter when you check all these kind of stuff to electronics??
Just a technicality, you said there was no resistance between the center electrode and the ground (screw in portion). This isn't quite accurate since resistance is the amount of blockage offered to the flow of electricity, you do still have resistance (in fact, a lot of it). It should actually be infinite resistance. Had you said no continuity between the center electrode and ground, I'd agree with you.
Well said ! Now I don't have to . Thanks. :-)
any meter reading on highest ohm setting is bad needs cleaning ----center elec. and gd should be infi.
What about an automotive sparkplug, wouldn't it be about the same as they are resistor plugs too?
Yes. However I would replace those if there is any doubt.
What if the number jumps up to say 5.75 (tiller spark plug) and then immediately goes back to 0?
Spark plugs aren't diodes, so my guess it's your leads connection and maybe a dirty plug.
The plug has an intermittent open. The resistor is cracked. Throw it away and replace it.
Is the 5-6K ohm measure (for resistor spark plugs) valid for cars too or just for motorcycles and lawnmowers?
Thank you.
Faulty spark plugs were always a bit of a mystery to me, especially since most of them look shiny and new.
Now that I know how to test them, it sure will reduce the guesswork and help to separate the fishing anchor from the good ones. 👍
This test more shows bad spark plugs than identifies a 100% good one. It can’t stress test the plug.
@@TightWadDIY stress test is when it's under load,a multimeter can't do that.
@@TightWadDIY plug leads the same.
You cannot test spark plugs with a multimeter!
What about iridium spark plugs ? Does this procedure work on them as well?
Sorry I don’t know.
Testing a spark plug with dc continuity on low voltage is a test that is not rely testing the plug to the fullest. For instance the insulation might have a crack in it and the spark could be sparking inside the plug and not where it is suppose to, or a false positive test. And a high voltage AC current jumps across where DC can not cross. And checking the gap to be the correct distance is also important.
That's not rely testing? Surely it should read that's not really testing!
But if the test done like shown and the continuity reads zero then the plug is defective regardless if it would somehow work by bridging over gaps using higher voltages.
in some plugs there is a little thick spring inside the porcelain . I use NGK nickle V groove plugs
👍🏼
Spark plugs can can have fire when tested outside of the combustion chamber. and can loose fire in the combustion chamber under compression although it's rare. and the tip you referred to is known as the electrode.
I’ve seen it many times. Mostly with champion plugs, even new out of the box. It’ll make you pull you’re hair out chasing an issue when you know you just replaced the plugs.
@@harryharry3193 seriously?
That’s all well and good but you didn’t even mention gapping the plug. Used plugs need to be checked for the proper gap between the electrode and the ground (hook). Even new plugs should be checked and adjusted. For the price of plugs, I always toss the old ones and replace with new when doing an engine service.
hit the nail on th head right up.
Great how to check. I've found there are 2 resistor types the good one, they have a solid core, the bad ones have carbon grains in the these are deceptivly nasty as they grains over time break down into smaller pieces and settle. Once this happens it sparks internally slowly destroying the grains and the longer they are used the worse it gets plus you get carbon tracking internally making them "look good" even if the gap is now to big to actually fire. Unless you have something like electronic ignition with similar output to a cars (they just keep ramping up the voltage until it can spark but also making for hard starting even on cars).
Thanks.
must correct you on resistance and continuity,if there's a low reading at the base the threaded part and electrode it means it has high continuity not high resistance .
I too must correct him for posting video saying "in under one minute" but has 6:18 of video i didnt even watch it. Probably was entertaining.
yea he screwed the resistance thing up saying there should be no resistance when there should be high resistance .
what should the readings be for a motorcycle or car spark plug?
Title should be, "How to test spark plugs in 1 minute, 6 times"
I believe the illustration that you show was excellent keep up the good work
Thank you!
There is a lot more goes wrong with sparkplugs than a faulty resistor. Testing a sparkplug at 20 deg C and a few volts is not a good indication that it is OK at 400+ deg.C and 30,000 Volts. Misfires will destroy a catalytic convertor in a very short time.
pls read my pre . comments to clear up some points of testing frank davidson
nice video man, if you'd want to check a spark plug before you put it in said small engine..
this is a great way to check a spark plug on resistance value and whether or not it is still okay to use.
i checked my plug right after this vid, and its still a-okay.
Great!
You say for the second spark plug "there's no reading so there's no resistance" . In fact, no reading means an infinite resistance ( because no current can pass in the electrode). the higher the number is, the highest the difficulty to current to travel. From an old motorcycle mecanic.
@@georgeiceman867 and open circuit and a circuit with infinite resistance are the same exact thing . this is a dumb ass video
you are right
no resistance would read 0.0000 Ω
You are amazing !,,there's so much info on all your postings that for sure will keep me busy and repair when problem arises , thank you for you time
The résistance of the spark plug does from 6 kilo ohm to 15 kilo ohm, not 6 to 15 ohms.
3:34
Even better, 3:26 **lol**
@@citec123x Even even better, 3:24 - LOL
What should an auto be? Range in ohms?
If you are not familiar in the automotive industry with the Ohms symbol, start preparing to look for another line of work, not even for a weekend warrior....I test my spark plugs by telling my helper to hold it with the cable in the " distributor " while I crank the engine to check for spark, now be sure you can outrun the helper....🙂🤙
Oldest trick in the book. Still a good one. The other was to charge a condenser, then toss it to the "new guy" saying "catch!" Yep, he gets 20,000 volts for a fraction of a second. And hates you. Until he pulls the same trick on the next new guy...
😀
Like the video but got confused a lil why do you have the red hooked in the com I thought the black wire goes there
When checking threads to center you should be on the highest scale.
NB! Under high pressure they fail although they show as functioning in atmospheric pressure (if they have a fine invisible crack = short cut)
Had no idea some spark plugs had resistors in them. I'm a idiot, lol! New subscriber due to this video. Thanks for posting this! 😎
It's always good to learn.
For short circuit with points other than tip of the spark plug, why don't you set multimeter to short circuit test setting, with symbol of diode? Which gives out a beep in case of a short circuit...
Thank you. I learnt something I did not know before. It is truly helpful.
What would the OHM's be for an automobile plug ?
very useful. A question. How can you test the ignition coil (or spark plug boot)?.
This is a good video and thanks for making it. However folks need to know that this simple test can detect a bad plug - BUT - most bad plugs can also pass this simple test. So like a lot of reviewers have said below, it’s really not a good way to test spark plugs.
that's what makes it a bad video.
What if the multimeter jumps all over the place while doing this test? Jumps between 7 and 19 and everything in between. When I did the multimeter test, it did drop to zero so I think the multimeter is good.
Great but faulty spark plugs can be fine until under compression, hot or cold in the cylinder, it's far better just to replace them.
Good! Does this spark plugs with 6 ohm's generate electricity with magnet?
No. Spark plugs do not generate electricity.
@@TightWadDIY Then , what is the trick behind fk tech production of electricity with such spark plug with magnet.
Makes sense 👍 Never thought of this before. Thanks.
Thanks for clear explanation, I have chainsaw, 20 hp mercury outboard machine and also analog multimeter. Now I know what to do.
You’re welcome!
Thank You. I wish I had information like this years ago.
Wish I had correct grammar.
Whished?
What if my ohm reading for a snow thrower spark plug for resistance (center electrode) is 123.00. Should I replace it?
I just put the plug on the exhaust manifold while still connected to plug wire and crank the engine if it fires it’s good
Careful with that Bub, that a good way to get jolted outta yur shorts!
@@bobpress1235 only if you have no clue what you are doing; in which case you aught not be meddling/fiddling with it in the first place.
Just because it sparks doesn't necessarily mean that the spark plug is good. It has to be a strong healthy bluish white spark to be good. I would class an orange spark as a weak spark and might not be strong enough to do the job. I've had this on motorcycles that I have had, the plug sparks but not strong enough 😁👍
Thanks man. Needed a quick refresher. Not getting any spark on an old leaf blower. Hoping it’s a easy spark plug, but it may be more than that. Keep up the good work
Good video. Would've been nice to see a cutaway view of the bad plug to see how it failed.
It's pretty much impossible to get a spark plug apart without destroying it, and therefore destroying evidence of the failure. Even cutting it in half would likely shatter the porcelain and the fragile center electrode.
@@livewire2759 Diamond saw.
@@deeeeeeps Do you have a diamond saw? I sure as hell don't. LOL
Great Information! By the wat the "resistor" you spoke about is also there in many higher amp car relays too.
You actually get max resistance from anode to ground. Not “any resistance”
sorry my meter dont read max it onle reads ohms any reading is bad top post to gd or threads if you esee nothing that is good if you have a carbon path youwill see it on highest scale that what i mean by any res. i dont know how to say it any clearer
@@frankdavidson9675 1 blank blank is infinite resistance.
@@frankdavidson9675 sorry for this late comment, but, I think no “continuity “ would be a better term, 👍
one more time --- a bad test on a spark plug is with 1 clip on top of plug the other conn. to hookon the bttom with your meter on its highest scale on ohms 200.000- 300.000 what ever on an analog meter the needle will show somthing -move off infinity that tells me the plug will miss fire because of the carbon build up on the post at the bottom of the plug if you get no reading that tells me the plug is good --- the only to save that plug with the carbon buildup is the small sand blaster plug cleaner with 90 lps press. it will clean that plug as good as new i use this method often
Will this work on Platinum plugs with a tiny Center electroid
Wow, much faster ways to test them !
Resistor also precents television from showing the engine running near it. Non resistor really messes with antenna reception!
By George I learned something new today, been working on cars since I was little .that entitles you to a subscribe from me ,well done
I never knew that there were resistors in some plugs. Thanks for the good tutorial.
In most plugs! Finding non-resistor plugs can be a challenge sometimes.
I had no idea that test even existed. I was wondering if that rod goes straight from top to bottom couldnt you also use continuity setting?
Hi... Ohms is a measurement of continuity... (same thing)
@@deanshafer2699 I would have to disagree. Ohms tells you the strength or weakness of the resistance in a circuit. Continuity just tells you theres a connection between two points.
Hey, I am using 20k settjng and getting 5,35, 4,94, 4,78 and 4,64. All the same brand, has R on it. I am wonder if these readings below 5 may impact fuel economy in any way? No resistance anywhere else besides the tip.
allow me to shed some light on cleaning and testing spark plugs 99% of the time a plug fails from carbon build up around the center post on the bottom of the plug test it this way set meter on highest ohm scale touch the leads togeather should read zero now connect i lead to top of plug the other lead to the (hook) bottom of plug if you get any reading at all you are reading threw the carbon buildup is the bottom i use a small plug cleaner (sand blasterT harbor freight to clean my plugs like new now after cleaning the dirty plug test again the reading will be gone its just like new i have had this same blaster 5 yrs cain not remember last time i bought a new plug
I’m sorry but that is total rubbish yes if your plugs are caked with carbon then your mixture is out………plugs wear on the tip simply because 250000 v flowing through
@@omriroberts137 just because you dont know how to read a ohm meter dont miss judge j my test been testing plugs about 70 = yrs has not failed me yet
I have 4 push on spark plug clear plastic adaptors.i just look to see the spark is same on ticking over in each adaptor.
very thorough and informative with good camera view so i could see. Thankyou
DJ C444 You are welcome. I’m glad you found it helpful.
Thanks for your time and help,
I have 3.0 liters engine ans the 6 spark plugs, iridium give me a reading of 3200 all of them,
Are they bad or are ok you say 5 to 15, and now i worry
If you engine turns on at all, they are definitely fine. If you have a misfire, start checking the plug wires and coils
To explain that better, different types and brands will have different readings that are their normal. Does the number on your spark plug start with an R like his did?
Just a caution the more expensive iridium and platinum plugs used in automobiles are coated on the tips with those metals respectively. You are not supposed to check the gap on those plugs because these metals can be so easily scraped off by a gapping tool. If you are touching the tip with a volt-ohm meter probe, then you are taking a risk of damaging the tip by removing some of these metal coatings. However, the spark plugs shown in this video are used in gas powered lawnmowers, weed whackers, chainsaws, and leaf blowers, and are generally the cheaper type of plug that y can test this way. You can spray off the carbon deposits on the iridium & platinum plugs, but again using a brush, sandpaper, or any other thing to scrub these coated metal tipped plugs is a no no.
Good info, thanks
spray them with what?
@@NHPhamousPolo carb and choke cleaner (or brake parts cleaner)
Only 1 question:
Shouldn't the black probe be in the " com" port? Just curious please correct me i stant to be corrected.
Yes
thanks, I have the meter but no idea how to use it.
There is a lot to learn about them. I don’t know everything. I learn new features as I need them.
Thanks it’s a good day whenever you gain a little knowledge ad today I learned something about Spark Plugs I did not know
Is you method works only for spark plug with a Resistance ?
Thanks, a lot every thing is clear , what is the best brand for digital voltmeter , and an Engine compression gauge for petrol engine ?
FLUKE is a major brand for multimeters. They can be a bit pricey though.
That is not the way to check a spark plug, checking for continuity or resistance tells you very little. There are lots of similar videos on youtube and they are all as clueless.
Similarly checking a spark plug by removing it from a cylinder head, leaving it connected and earthing it to check for a spark is also wrong. You may get away with these methods for a while but the day will come where you will be suckered by them and you will end up tearing your hair out or tearing your engine apart looking for the fault when all along it was the spark plug.
Why your method is not correct is because you are using the very low voltage of your DMM. High voltages can and will arc across carbon deposits which can either weaken the spark or earth the spark altogether. Using the other method of testing outside a cylinder for spark also tells you very little. Faulty spark plugs can spark in free air, but under compression they can fail completely or give a very weak spark that's easily affected by fuel or oil. It takes more voltage to produce a spark under compression than it does in ambient. In order to test a spark plug in ambient pressure the spark gap must be increased according to the engine's compression ratio. DMM's are not spark plug testers (or coil testers), you might as well just replace the spark plug with a new one if you suspect it and that will tell you, it's also easier.
@@metalhalide4043 No not over complicated, but maybe over your head. Read what I said. A typical DMM uses 5 to 12 volts for the ohms check function. A small engine can produce 20,000 60,000 volts on the ignition. That sort of voltage can easily make a short in the plug over carbon deposits either completely or partially. What is so hard to understand about that?
@@metalhalide4043 changing the subject now yeah? But to answer your question, no quite the opposite.
@@metalhalide4043 I'm not sure why I am bothering with you, nothing else to do right now I suppose. We are talking about spark plugs, not correcting issues by re-conditioning engines. You go ahead and test spark plugs with a DMM if it makes you happy because thinking beyond that is beyond your comprehension. However if one day you if see a spark plug tester and want to expand your thinking a bit buy a spark plug tester. Some even allow you to set them so you can account for compression of air. Personally the method I use is to substitute the old spark plug with a new one.
@@metalhalide4043 I haven't changed the iridium spark plugs in my SUV for years, though I do check them from time to time, I only replace them when they get too worn. However I do have small engines and a 4WD that does not use computerized crap and you do need more mechanical knowledge than simply changing oil and an air filter on those machines if you in the very least do your own services. I repair all of my stuff, from mechanical to electronic. I have a workshop with tools for just about everything. I was lucky enough to have a father who was a top engineer with caterpillar and I did my "apprenticeship" under him. My formal education was in electronics and I have a full pro lab for that. I did spend some time servicing vehicle ECU's, lucrative but a bit boring as most faults are mostly related to moisture or water ingress and subsequent corrosion, conformal coatings used on them will only last so long before they break down. Other common problems are with driver parts, again, pretty basic stuff.
@@allansmith6140 You are wasting your time my friend, it is obvious that some people will not comprehend it and are hell bent to bugger on with their beliefs so trying to explain to them is futile.
Good video but it's really only part of the picture. I've had plugs that leaked around the porcelain, either cracked insulator or bad manufacturing. I had a set of new plugs in my car once and opened the hood at night and you could see 'corona' around the insulator body where it meets the metal part of the plug. Car ran fine but the plugs were leaking voltage.