Rob, ive got one of the Tino Saatchi single bladed reamers. Tbh i don't find it that great to use as the blade struggles to cut the material. Either the blade slides across the surface and does nothing or jams into the surface/leading edge. How i have ended up using it is to identify the high points, allowing you to sand then use the tool to re-check the shoes are central all over. You could fabricate an arm which sits of the layshaft and has an adjustable holder for a dial feeler gauge to do the same to do it and use a sander to gentle knock the high points down.
Would modifying that TS brake reaming tool to have two handles instead of just one make it easier to twist and turn about the brake pads, "more" leverage to turn?...Might require 2x metallic parts instead of just one continuous circular squeezed at just one end...Just thoughts and I also have been eyeing the tool to possibly purchase! Cheers nice video!
@@kickbackgarage You are putting pressure on just one side though with one handle bending the apparatus from being true circle...Even if you weld a second handle to opposite side the turning factor would eliminate some of the bending caused by force of using just one handle thus evening the pads smoother and effort needed to do so!
Could you not take a knackered rear hub, machine out on a lathe the braking surface then glue sand paper to it. Start the engine then put in a jack stand to raise the wheel and put it in gear and ream the shoes away. Or have I got it wrong?
The best on the marked is the casa disk and it comes complete. Bgm/lth/jockies are good at a slightly lower price. ua-cam.com/video/sQ1jO8uPBdg/v-deo.htmlsi=w9W6AwKdnoX9TZTy
Here in the States the grinding of brakes shoes has been band since 1980's due to the asbestos dust causing cancer if you must do it should be done out doors and use a good filter mask
Well done, excellent video, as the brake pads never touch the drum square, I only shave a bit off the leading edge of the shoe. Run it for 50 ish miles and adjust, let it settle in again and adjust if needed.
Great job done Rob, nothing is ever straight forward concerning a Lambretta, as we all know. Happy New Year to you & your Family mate 👍👍🍺🍺
Rob, what is the diffrence between LD 125 and LD 150 interms of the engine. Does both share same sparepart?
I have no Idea!
@@kickbackgarage thanks.
Rob, ive got one of the Tino Saatchi single bladed reamers. Tbh i don't find it that great to use as the blade struggles to cut the material. Either the blade slides across the surface and does nothing or jams into the surface/leading edge. How i have ended up using it is to identify the high points, allowing you to sand then use the tool to re-check the shoes are central all over. You could fabricate an arm which sits of the layshaft and has an adjustable holder for a dial feeler gauge to do the same to do it and use a sander to gentle knock the high points down.
I thought it looked too good to be true!
Just fitted new SIP brake pads and they don’t need sanding at all.
I fit sip pads on the original tv175 I did last year and needed to sand them. Did you use your old used hub?
@@kickbackgarage yes it was my old hub
Then it's possibly a new hub and pad at the same time problem.
Would modifying that TS brake reaming tool to have two handles instead of just one make it easier to twist and turn about the brake pads, "more" leverage to turn?...Might require 2x metallic parts instead of just one continuous circular squeezed at just one end...Just thoughts and I also have been eyeing the tool to possibly purchase! Cheers nice video!
The reason why it sticks to the pads is because the hose clamp twists and bends.
@@kickbackgarage You are putting pressure on just one side though with one handle bending the apparatus from being true circle...Even if you weld a second handle to opposite side the turning factor would eliminate some of the bending caused by force of using just one handle thus evening the pads smoother and effort needed to do so!
Could you not take a knackered rear hub, machine out on a lathe the braking surface then glue sand paper to it. Start the engine then put in a jack stand to raise the wheel and put it in gear and ream the shoes away. Or have I got it wrong?
That would also work! I don't have a knackered octopus rear hub though.
I didn't realise you had an octopus set up!
Happy new year!
Hi Rob Can you do vid on adjusting inboard hydraulic front brake please? 🇦🇺
Wish I could but I don't know anyone that has one here.
@@kickbackgarage ok, thanks mate. struggling... scootrs type
I had a club member that had one with the taffspeed conversion and it wasn't thst great .
@@kickbackgarage can you recommend something rob?
want to ditch this, its crap
The best on the marked is the casa disk and it comes complete. Bgm/lth/jockies are good at a slightly lower price. ua-cam.com/video/sQ1jO8uPBdg/v-deo.htmlsi=w9W6AwKdnoX9TZTy
Here in the States the grinding of brakes shoes has been band since 1980's due to the asbestos dust causing cancer if you must do it should be done out doors and use a good filter mask
They dont use asbestos in brake shoes anymore! Don't do this with original no's shoes!
How I can buy this tool please ?
How many you are adjust the Torque wrenches rear hub please ? How I can buy the tool please ?
Send an email to Tino at info@lambretta.it
Mikino I think what they are called. Also have that TS tool, fooking rubbish 😉
Dont tighten the tool so hard at the start mate. 😘
It was completely slack. Yours was easier to use.
@@kickbackgarage sometimes I also need to bend/manhandle it back to shape/roundness. 🤷🏼♂️
Still better than nothing!
@@kickbackgarage 💯% agreed mate ! 👍
Well done, excellent video, as the brake pads never touch the drum square, I only shave a bit off the leading edge of the shoe. Run it for 50 ish miles and adjust, let it settle in again and adjust if needed.