Having used thousands of feet of this stuff as an industrial electrician I can tell you that the 1-5/8” version is much stiffer than the 7/8” you show here, there’s also 3-1/4” deep if you really need stiff stuff. In addition, they sell heavy square washers so you can use the strut with the flat side against the wood to minimize denting of the wood.
The washers are great, I recently discovered those during a random stroll through my local HD. I’m aware of the larger sizes but those are more expensive and probably overkill for most glue ups unless you need to go really wide. Thanks for the tips, very helpful. I love when the viewers are smarter than me!
As a former plumber I’ve used superstrut in the thousands of meter range. Installed equivalent amounts of pipe on ‘m, also used it to create mounting solutions in awkward situations and spaces, for all kinds of appendages. These struts are also excellent for making mounting points in basements, without having to drill once into the basement walls. On the deep end, I’ve used superstrut to reenforce the inside ‘retaining’ walls of my version of an Earthship, where I wasn’t allowed to use discarded tires at the specific location. On the use of the carriage bolts, that’s of course a viable option. However, when one flips the strut with the smoothest side to the be glued object, the true value of the strut can be used. With the open side of the strut available, one can use threaded rod to length, put a slide nut on the rod, put this through the hole of the strut closest to the workpiece and then place the slide nut in position on the ‘fingers’ of the ‘C’. Following, this position can be fixed in position with a similar washer and hex nut. It secures the bolt at the location for several work pieces of the same width. Much easier than sliding the carriage bolt from underneath. Absolutely agree with Kevin Stenger on the 1 5/8” version being much stronger, and for heavy duty the 3 1/4” is indeed excellent. Equivalent in metric R2 15mm, R2 20mm, R3 40mm, R4 46mm, R6 60mm. Of which the R3 version is a double sided (thick) strut, which may be an option for super heavy duty. Cheerio
I expect the enlightenment when watching UA-cam vids, but when it also comes with HUMOR... wow... WOW hands down the best way to teach someone like me! Great idea, GREAT VIDEO
Hey, so not that you asked but here's a mod to this that would help keep them flat. For each caul, set a small offcut from the piece being clamped (same thickness) on the other side of each bolt to counteract any flex that would bow out the middle.
This is a great suggestion. I was worried about the possible bulge in the middle too. But it is probably not an issue for 2.5 ft, more of an issue for wider boards. In those cases, you could also load the middle with plywood sheets or dumbbells 😅
they taught us back in school, you know back in the old days when they actually taught shop classes in school, anyways they taught us to put paper towel between any glue joins you didnt want permanent. you could easily break the glue join and sand off any excess glue. would be a good option should you choose the wooden cauls
Omg I don't even know where to start! Ok, so first as a woodworker: I wasn't expecting much from a video showing how to make some cauls. Boy was I wrong! What a great idea! I actually learned something and I will hit the hardware store this weekend and try to copy this! As a content creator: The editing is on another level! Wow! Yet again, there is so much to learn! The quick angle changes without beeing overwhelming, the great application of your humor, the flawless audio and light, the sharp and crisp video quality, the cleverly applied effects and filters, I mean every aspect is spot on! As an impatient content consumer: I wasn't bored for a second! This was perfect in length and very entertaining! This Video is an absolute banger! I appreciate how much time and effort you put into this, thank you for sharing this jewel with the youtube woodworking community!!👌👍
Gosh Adrian, this may be the nicest comment I have ever gotten on a video! 🥲 I know YOU know how much work all this takes, it feels good that someone recognizes it. You know I'm a big fan of yours and so it definitely means a lot.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Also mad props for being able to make a great video. You strike a nice balance in your humour, teaching and video length.
Hey Lee, I've been using unistrut as cauls for years and its great to see a quality video showcasing the different ways to go with this. I would add that there is also a deeper throat version of the strut which is what I had used in the past, especially for wider glue ups. One way to save a bit and have an even more flexible system is to use all thread which you can but in 5 or 10' lengths and cut it to length for thicker projects with 2 bolts and 2 washers per side. Few more pieces but it really gives an additional level of flexibility. Great video!
The all-thread is a good idea, but I like the carriage bolts because you don't need to hold a wrench on the bottom nut. I like Unistrut too, but it's not as easy to find for most people (most of the big box stores don't carry it). I used to know a guy who worked for the city in Public Works back when I lived in Maine, and he used to give me old green sign posts to use!
I found many struts I'm using on junkyards -that's the cheapest option, I guess. I don't remember how I came to struts, but it was years ago. Funny presentation. 😉
Great idea! ...and, to be a little extra with the longer ones, putting a small bow in each bar will help make sure that the center of the panel receives optimal pressure.
I don’t really find putting a bow on these is necessary. These are really stiff (especially the larger ones) and if you are tightening enough to bend them you’re going way too hard.
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworks I wouldn't do it for smaller sections, but some simple tests will tell you how much bow to put in for a particular length. (i.e. clamps at either end, tightened with just a little extra chooch and a single point in the middle. I would copy the resulting deflection, if there is any.)
Ok you got a subscription from me for this one, only the second one of yours that I watched. I just did my first glue-up with these new cauls. Amazing! No more struggling, juggling wooden cauls with tape on them just to have to adjust them and they fall off to start over again. I did take your advice and get wing-nuts as well as hex-nuts, but I ended up threading the hex-nut on the bolt after putting it through the bottom bar, therefore keeping the bolt in place. I love how you can loosen them up and slide them around without falling apart. The only thing is....now I have to make about three more! Thanks man!
That is certainly a good 'off label' use. Gotta say, I have found the Rockler panel clamps darn easy to use, not fiddly at all, they even used some sort of paint that allows any glue that runs out onto them to be knocked off easily. With a couple of shims, I'm using them lately to clamp up some coopered chair seats, saving me having to build a special jig for the job. All the Best to you. -Veteran '66-68
I use this method. Two suggestions. 1. Turn the unistrut over so that the perforated face is against the timber - this spreads the load and avoids marking the timber. 2. Stick some PTFE/ Teflon tape on the face of the unistrut to make it totally glue resistant.
All I could think after watching this video was "Wow, I like that". They look so professional and the options seem almost limitless. One of the best hacks I've ever seen. Thanks. SUBSCRIBED!
This was my first video of yours that I have seen...and I LOVED IT! Great practical and cost saving solution, and I was extremely entertained by your sense of humor...you had me quite literally laughing out loud! Keep up the good work. And thanks to all the folks who offered great additional tips in the comments.
Allright, Old-School, you got my subscription. I like your style, editing, and personality. You kept my attention, and I learned something. I would like to see more, please, so keep it comin'!
I'm really not a fan of clickbait titles/thumbnails, but yours struck the perfect balance to actually make me curious about the video. Your presentation and clear explanation got me to subscribe. I'm in the process of boxing in a trailer, and seriously considering framing it with that U-channel. It just makes so many built-in opportunities for securing work areas and cargo.
I’ve used it to build shelving frames, very easy to work with and it’s all nuts and bolts so no welding necessary! (You can weld it of course, but I suck at welding unfortunately)
Good idea. Went to Lowes today, bought the parts, and made a set of 30" cauls, with the little "end caps" ( added 20$ to the price just for the plastic end caps.!) but looks nicer with them. Thanks for the idea.
Wow….just….wow. I’ve made culls out of 2x4’s turned on edge, with 10” of threaded rod on each end. Not exactly stiff enough, not adjustable. My dad always said “simpler is ALWAYS better”. This is genius. Thanks
I was going to post that, take the wood and plane off each end just a few times from about a third from the edges to form a slight "bow". Then, when you tighten the ends down, you'll get more consistent clamping force across the entire width. I was also thinking to turn the wood caul on edge instead of the "flat" side as it should be stronger and less chance of flex.
Listen my dude. I am only at 1:13 of the video. Had to pause to let you know that because of your comical editing I am subscribing to the channel. So for so good. Cheers
One add-on for the sticklers out there; you could add some blue tape (or other thin shims) to the middle if you're concerned about getting full pressure at the middle. Unistrut is a great idea - I never got the hang of making a curved caul on the jointer anyway and you're right, you need 6 hands to put them in place.
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworks Or some more threaded fasteners, outboard of the existing ones, to act as spreaders and induce a gentle bow in the opposite direction? (Sorry I'm late to this party, only just had this video recommended to me!)
Good stuff sir. I often purposely create more work for myself because Ive never used cauls. My stuborn pride results in more time milling and using unnecessary fasterns or techniques to keep wood as flat as possible. This is one of those simple and affordable solutions we ALL should be using. Also, never gets old using and sayig "wingnuts."
I busted a rib from coughing a while back. This video got me laughing so hard, its busted again! Thanks for making my day a little better and giving me a way to save some money while you're at it!
Great idea and how-to. I've been using the non-stick backing from mailing labels to protect my wooden cauls from glue, but this idea is better. And I can still use the backing paper if I feel nostalgic. I really like the mountable cam-clamps. richard -- Don’t aggravate someone serving you a foamy drink.
Loved the video and immediately bought a 10' piece of the 12 gauge. I leaned the 10 against a shelf and noticed that it flexed somewhat where the 12 did not. Also bought the end caps for that 'Rockler' effect. The nut choice I made was to go with a handle nut. I found them on McMaster Carr. They give wrench leverage without a tool. Brilliant design Lee.
Hate to disagree but the heavy smoker's voice is like fingernails on a chalkboard to me. The over-the-top goofiness doesn't transfer to comedy on anyone's level very well. If you remove the grating, annoying silliness, the substantive content (which is actually pretty good) could have been made in about three minutes.
@@kerryflatt5391 I don’t smoke but I did have cancer. Radiation treatments in my neck almost left me with no ability to speak at all, so I’m grateful for whatever voice I have left. Sorry about that 😢.
I have used wood cauls in the past that worked ok but found I had to create a slightly crowned surface in order to clamp flat because of board flex. This looks more resistant to flex. Nice touch with the quick clamp instead of the wing nut. Think I’m going to get some of this next time I have a glue up. Thanks!
A couple of things I didn't mention in the video... for one, they have two larger sizes that are even more flex-resistant if you are doing something like a large table or whatever. Second, they make spring nuts (kind of expensive though) that make the setup a little quicker as well. Thanks for stopping by, really appreciate it 😊
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworks thanks for the tip... very cool when you find products from other use cases that work perfectly for woodworking. Similarly, I was upgrading my 5 gallon bucket on my smaller dust separator, and had issues of the bucket collapsing. I found for like $25 you can get a big sump pump basin that has a great top and beefy plastic walls too that has worked out excellent. haha!
You Lee missed your true calling as a comedian. Your delivery is flawless. Facial expressions dead on. Also have the "believe you me" presence . Very entertaining.
Never thought of using those. I work in a data center, and when we have the contractors come in to do electrical work. They use them and toss a bunch out. Soi can get it free. BUT I have a better idea. Why not use the camps through the holes like you did with the wooden ones. Thanks for the video.
Because I only showed the F-clamps as an example of what I used to do. Nothing stopping anyone from using those but it makes the solution a bit more expensive.
Yep, made my set of these. Found the spring loaded nuts for the rails work well. Make lots of calls to keep from denting your work piece. Thanks for the video!
35 years ago when I bought my Shop Smith I got 2 of their caul - clamps. These will clamp and put pressure on the flat sides at the same time. It works for glue ups that are 16 inches or less. Then somewhere I found generic ones so now I have 4 and I remember seeing the clamping parts (no wood included) somewhere in a book...
Excellent idea! As you say, some of the off-the-shelf solutions are overengineered, and overpriced.I just love affordable, clever alternatives that can be modified to suit. Thanks for sharing.
Here’s another quick and easy workshop tip! One hour Miter Saw Fence: Part 1 ua-cam.com/video/gP7AVmdyzlM/v-deo.html and Part 2 ua-cam.com/video/aZWcFabXnGk/v-deo.html
Great idea. I noticed that he filed the cut ends smooth even though he didn't mention it. As an electrician I recommend that you file the ends. Those things can get really sharp burrs that cut pretty bad.
GREAT CALL!!! This is the kind of stuff I do all the time! Rockler's out of it's MIND and so are their customers! It cracks me up when I see shops full of Rockler crap! they have a few useful pieces that aren't too bad on the wallet when there's a sale, but it's NOT the place for impulse shopping, unless your impulse is to be repulsed...
You're just like my dad : incredibly funny, have increadibly good ideas and tricks, and also takes 10 minutes to explain things that could've taken 30s. Love it.
My first time seeing one of your videos. I'm very impressed with your production skills, not to mention humor and absent of useless filler talk. YES, I subscribed without hesitation!!! Thank you very much!
Great video. Reminds me a bit of The Science Guy when I was a kid. Well done! I am literally shopping for these today and your video saved me a ton of money. Thank you! God bless!
Thank you so much, I had a rough weekend, I clicked this video expecting just some explanation but you did more than explaining something, you put a smile on my face. Thank you for that, I loved this video and I’m a new subscriber now
Hey Lee, this is pretty darn cool. Tks. But are you not a bit concerned that the metal will mark the wood you are glueing up, or is that why you only suggested 2 wing nut turns to tighten…and not to over tighten. I’d feel better with some sort of protection between my wood surface and the 2 channels of the strut . Thoughts?
I hear you on that. I don't usually crank down on these that hard, but if you really need to, you can flip the struts over, which gives you a lot more surface area. I do find having the open side down is easier, and it’s not usually an issue as long as you don’t over tighten them. If you put the flat side down, the wing nuts don’t fit, so you’d have to modify the clamping mechanism. They make specialty nuts that fit in these channels. They're kind of expensive, but make it so you can have the open side facing away from the wood.
I did furniture repair for 25 years, what i used to keep glue from sticking was formica blocks. I kept several blocks around that were different lengths and widths. I got mine from old counter tops that were 3/4" thick which is plenty strong for glueing anything. Never in 25 years did I have any issues with glue sticking to the formica blocks.
Just found this! Great idea on the strut material Lee, although I was always taught that a caul should have a slight almost imperceptible curve to the clamping face that ensures a uniform pressure from the centre outwards across the glue up board as you tighten them down, (flat ones tend to just clamp on outer edges only )so here's an idea, you could always try planing a curve onto a softwood board, then rip it into strips, & cover them with tape or wax, to attach to the struts as a sacrificial non marring glue proof face,
I wish I had mentioned in the video that they also make two thicker sizes of struts for larger glue ups. As long as you don't overtighten them, these will not flex, so I have never found the curve necessary. A few others have offered similar ideas as you mention here though.
if you walk into a hardware store or home center and call it super strut they may not know what your talking about . the trade names are known by unistrut and kindorf they also come in 3/4 thick and 1 1/2 in thick. most of the time you find it in galvanized but i have also seen it come with some kind of green coating. there are threaded fittings that slide inside the track so that you can slide threaded rods or bolts to any spot on the track. this allows you to get in right next to the edge of your project.
Unistrut is a similar competing product. They aren’t the same and the sizes are slightly different. Most home centers don’t carry it on the shelf (at least not in the US) but specialty trade suppliers will.
Thanks so much for the video. I almost went out to Rockler to buy what they sell. Glad I didn't. I saved your video for when I'm ready to make one. I have everything in my cart at Home Depot. I think you're very funny and I'm a new subscriber now :)
Hi Lee, Thanks for the super idea. Your video is terrific. Makes me feel as if I've been practicing woodworking in a dark cellar for 50 years and someone just turned the light on for me.
Worked 35 years in piping, electrical. Uni strut, Universal Strut, Super Strut is used exclusively throughout the trades of Electricians and pipe fitters. There are many varieties and additional add ons that can be found. Try Grainger, Ferguson for starters. Electrical wholesale Stores as well. Not cheap though. For basic use at home , got to Home Depot or Lowe’s . Amazon has better selection of additional bolts, square and round washers. I built a pipe, strut reinforcement backside support for a vinyl fence every other post that was on a slope that is currently holding up to a hurricane Debbie right now.
Hi Lee. I saw this a couple of weeks ago and filed it in the old memory banks. I now have a need for these and amazingly remembered your video. This is great info. & I love your humor and presentation. Good enough to get me to subscribe. I'm looking forward to seeing more. Tomorrow I'll be busy at my local big box store....
I like to use tapered hardwood cauls that end up keeping steady pressure all the way across the glue up. I wouldn't mind trying these, though, but the thicker stuff is definitely going to be the better choice. Even a little bit of bow/flex in the middle can allow panel movement.
Great idea, I have a 28" square panel I need to glue up from 4 smaller panels and was going to use wooden cauls/calls?? Now I'm headed to home store for some of those rails and bolts and 'wingnuts'😊. Thanks for the video.
Valid and useful information combined with a slightly demented (in a good way) sense of humor and killer delivery. Now this is what I’m looking for , useful information and having a great time learning it!!! Thanks dude!!!
Great idea. I did some searching and found some even taller Superstrut. A-1200 looks like what Home Depot sells now for $42/10-ft, which is 1-5/8" square. The next taller is the E-1200, 2-7/16" tall. You can even get the H-1200 at 3-1/4" tall. The taller the better to keep the strut from flexing. This should help keep wider boards flatter when gluing up. Something I'd also try is using HDPE inserted into the strut slot to keep the strut from creating grooves in the wood, especially softer wood. HDPE doesn't stick to wood glue and could be inserted into the strut in sections or different lengths, allowing it to fit the width of the glued up board. No matter what you end up getting, it will always be less expensive than the commercial ones that, as you said, are over engineered. A lot of times KISS is the best and least expensive way to do things.
All good suggestions! My channel is focused around economical solutions, so I always try to present the cheapest option for things. I really should have mentioned in the video that they do make much taller struts if you need those. One way to prevent marking the wood is to flip these over, as there is more surface area there; although I find that if you use reasonable pressure, even soft woods like pine won't dent. No need to go too tight. Just "double ugga" like I say in the video! 🙂
Thanks for this. You gave me an idea for another application I have been trying to figure out. I have been looking for a way to make consistent router groves for the Microjig dovetail clamps for large surfaces. It appears these superstruts are very heavy duty, nice and long and will stay in place once you screw them down. All I would need to do is place square templates made of MDF on each side, make sure the measurement is consistent throughout, and route my t track slot. From what it appears by the thickness there shouldn't be any flex at all. Thanks!
Oh yeah, there's a thousand uses for this stuff! Very stiff and straight! I've used it for shelving, fencing, you name it. They make it in two larger sizes, for big heavy duty jobs too.
I just watched this. Thank you! I subscribed. For not much money I will have four 2-1/2 foot long cauls. Perfect! I will be going to Lowes this weekend.
Dude, you're funny! I thoroughly enjoyed watching you and this video!! The info is awesome! You are a bit like in using tools/materials from different industries. I actually used to be a Commercial Electrician, but I never thought of this, and I WAS considering those Rockler clamps. But alas! No more you have shown me the way!!! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
Be sure to check out the follow-up sequel to this video here! ua-cam.com/video/KoCJ4V_ySmM/v-deo.html
Thank you
@@Eduardo_Espinoza very welcome
Having used thousands of feet of this stuff as an industrial electrician I can tell you that the 1-5/8” version is much stiffer than the 7/8” you show here, there’s also 3-1/4” deep if you really need stiff stuff. In addition, they sell heavy square washers so you can use the strut with the flat side against the wood to minimize denting of the wood.
The washers are great, I recently discovered those during a random stroll through my local HD. I’m aware of the larger sizes but those are more expensive and probably overkill for most glue ups unless you need to go really wide. Thanks for the tips, very helpful. I love when the viewers are smarter than me!
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworksthere are magnetic washers too for uni strut. Makes placing them much easier.
@@akbychoice really? I've never seen the magnetic ones. Gonna have to check those out!
As a commercial plumber who has also used thousands of feet of this, I came to say the same.
As a former plumber I’ve used superstrut in the thousands of meter range. Installed equivalent amounts of pipe on ‘m, also used it to create mounting solutions in awkward situations and spaces, for all kinds of appendages. These struts are also excellent for making mounting points in basements, without having to drill once into the basement walls. On the deep end, I’ve used superstrut to reenforce the inside ‘retaining’ walls of my version of an Earthship, where I wasn’t allowed to use discarded tires at the specific location.
On the use of the carriage bolts, that’s of course a viable option. However, when one flips the strut with the smoothest side to the be glued object, the true value of the strut can be used. With the open side of the strut available, one can use threaded rod to length, put a slide nut on the rod, put this through the hole of the strut closest to the workpiece and then place the slide nut in position on the ‘fingers’ of the ‘C’. Following, this position can be fixed in position with a similar washer and hex nut. It secures the bolt at the location for several work pieces of the same width. Much easier than sliding the carriage bolt from underneath.
Absolutely agree with Kevin Stenger on the 1 5/8” version being much stronger, and for heavy duty the 3 1/4” is indeed excellent. Equivalent in metric R2 15mm, R2 20mm, R3 40mm, R4 46mm, R6 60mm. Of which the R3 version is a double sided (thick) strut, which may be an option for super heavy duty. Cheerio
I expect the enlightenment when watching UA-cam vids, but when it also comes with HUMOR... wow... WOW hands down the best way to teach someone like me! Great idea, GREAT VIDEO
Wow, thank you! 🙏 Glad you enjoyed it! Some people don’t appreciate the humor part but it makes it more fun - especially for me 😁
Everything about this video is great. The teaching, the humor, the idea, the production quality. Thank you for sharing!
You’re welcome! Appreciate you giving me a watch 😁
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworks He gave you a watch? What brand, Rolex or Timex? Sorry, I couldn't resist. LOL
@@jerrysmigiel7998 smart 🫏
Yup, gave him a sub.
Thank you! @@AvianArmada
Hey, so not that you asked but here's a mod to this that would help keep them flat. For each caul, set a small offcut from the piece being clamped (same thickness) on the other side of each bolt to counteract any flex that would bow out the middle.
Amazing suggestion, especially for the wooden cauls.
@@kkarllwt also a great suggestion 👍
This is a great suggestion. I was worried about the possible bulge in the middle too. But it is probably not an issue for 2.5 ft, more of an issue for wider boards. In those cases, you could also load the middle with plywood sheets or dumbbells 😅
Genius. Like all the best ideas, it’s obvious in retrospect but I didn’t think of it.
they taught us back in school, you know back in the old days when they actually taught shop classes in school, anyways they taught us to put paper towel between any glue joins you didnt want permanent. you could easily break the glue join and sand off any excess glue. would be a good option should you choose the wooden cauls
Omg I don't even know where to start!
Ok, so first as a woodworker:
I wasn't expecting much from a video showing how to make some cauls. Boy was I wrong! What a great idea! I actually learned something and I will hit the hardware store this weekend and try to copy this!
As a content creator:
The editing is on another level! Wow! Yet again, there is so much to learn! The quick angle changes without beeing overwhelming, the great application of your humor, the flawless audio and light, the sharp and crisp video quality, the cleverly applied effects and filters, I mean every aspect is spot on!
As an impatient content consumer:
I wasn't bored for a second! This was perfect in length and very entertaining!
This Video is an absolute banger! I appreciate how much time and effort you put into this, thank you for sharing this jewel with the youtube woodworking community!!👌👍
Gosh Adrian, this may be the nicest comment I have ever gotten on a video! 🥲 I know YOU know how much work all this takes, it feels good that someone recognizes it. You know I'm a big fan of yours and so it definitely means a lot.
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworks I am glad I could add something positive to your day, you deserved it without a doubt!
I absolutely LOVE practical, simple solutions like this that are also cost effective. Well done!!
We agree!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Also mad props for being able to make a great video. You strike a nice balance in your humour, teaching and video length.
I appreciate that! The encouragement means a lot to me ❤️
Hey Lee, I've been using unistrut as cauls for years and its great to see a quality video showcasing the different ways to go with this. I would add that there is also a deeper throat version of the strut which is what I had used in the past, especially for wider glue ups. One way to save a bit and have an even more flexible system is to use all thread which you can but in 5 or 10' lengths and cut it to length for thicker projects with 2 bolts and 2 washers per side. Few more pieces but it really gives an additional level of flexibility. Great video!
The all-thread is a good idea, but I like the carriage bolts because you don't need to hold a wrench on the bottom nut. I like Unistrut too, but it's not as easy to find for most people (most of the big box stores don't carry it). I used to know a guy who worked for the city in Public Works back when I lived in Maine, and he used to give me old green sign posts to use!
I found many struts I'm using on junkyards -that's the cheapest option, I guess.
I don't remember how I came to struts, but it was years ago.
Funny presentation. 😉
@@m1ha1mateescu junkyards are full of of cool stuff! I should do a junkyard video!
I was going to say something snarky, but then I finished watching the video. This is a brilliant solution. Thanks for this!
You can still say the snarky thing if you want 😊
Super glad UA-cam Recomended your Channel! Thank you Lee!
Welcome Rich! Thanks for stopping by! 👋
As a general contractor and finish carpenter, I mostly ignore all these DIY channels, but I have to admit, that this is a great solution!
Thank you! Keep watching, there's more coming 😉
Great idea, low cost, flexible, and easy to use! You nailed it.
Everything I strive for when I make a video! Checked all the boxes ✏️ ✅
Great idea! ...and, to be a little extra with the longer ones, putting a small bow in each bar will help make sure that the center of the panel receives optimal pressure.
I don’t really find putting a bow on these is necessary. These are really stiff (especially the larger ones) and if you are tightening enough to bend them you’re going way too hard.
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworks I wouldn't do it for smaller sections, but some simple tests will tell you how much bow to put in for a particular length. (i.e. clamps at either end, tightened with just a little extra chooch and a single point in the middle. I would copy the resulting deflection, if there is any.)
Ok you got a subscription from me for this one, only the second one of yours that I watched. I just did my first glue-up with these new cauls. Amazing! No more struggling, juggling wooden cauls with tape on them just to have to adjust them and they fall off to start over again. I did take your advice and get wing-nuts as well as hex-nuts, but I ended up threading the hex-nut on the bolt after putting it through the bottom bar, therefore keeping the bolt in place. I love how you can loosen them up and slide them around without falling apart. The only thing is....now I have to make about three more! Thanks man!
Awesome! So glad these are working for you! ❤️
That is certainly a good 'off label' use. Gotta say, I have found the Rockler panel clamps darn easy to use, not fiddly at all, they even used some sort of paint that allows any glue that runs out onto them to be knocked off easily. With a couple of shims, I'm using them lately to clamp up some coopered chair seats, saving me having to build a special jig for the job.
All the Best to you. -Veteran '66-68
"Off-label" use? Oh no 😱 please don't tell the FDA
I use this method. Two suggestions. 1. Turn the unistrut over so that the perforated face is against the timber - this spreads the load and avoids marking the timber.
2. Stick some PTFE/ Teflon tape on the face of the unistrut to make it totally glue resistant.
Both excellent suggestions, thanks
As a plumber, I’ve been cutting unistrut for years.
And this is genius!
I hope you can cut it straighter than me 😬
All I could think after watching this video was "Wow, I like that". They look so professional and the options seem almost limitless. One of the best hacks I've ever seen. Thanks. SUBSCRIBED!
Yay 👏 so glad you found this useful!
This was my first video of yours that I have seen...and I LOVED IT! Great practical and cost saving solution, and I was extremely entertained by your sense of humor...you had me quite literally laughing out loud! Keep up the good work. And thanks to all the folks who offered great additional tips in the comments.
Awesome! My viewers always offer extra tips, love that ❤️
Allright, Old-School, you got my subscription. I like your style, editing, and personality. You kept my attention, and I learned something.
I would like to see more, please, so keep it comin'!
Appreciate that! Shooting more footage as we speak! 🎦
Just found your channel and love your style (and your workshop)! Thanks for keeping it both entertaining and informative.
Welcome! 🙏
🤯mind blown. Saved us $100 from rockler and $600 from woodpeckers. Calling this the real Clampzilla.
Saving that cash 🤑 is what it's all about brother!
I'm really not a fan of clickbait titles/thumbnails, but yours struck the perfect balance to actually make me curious about the video. Your presentation and clear explanation got me to subscribe.
I'm in the process of boxing in a trailer, and seriously considering framing it with that U-channel. It just makes so many built-in opportunities for securing work areas and cargo.
I’ve used it to build shelving frames, very easy to work with and it’s all nuts and bolts so no welding necessary! (You can weld it of course, but I suck at welding unfortunately)
Good idea. Went to Lowes today, bought the parts, and made a set of 30" cauls, with the little "end caps" ( added 20$ to the price just for the plastic end caps.!) but looks nicer with them. Thanks for the idea.
Yeah, I have no idea why those end caps are so expensive 🤷🏻♂️
Wow….just….wow. I’ve made culls out of 2x4’s turned on edge, with 10” of threaded rod on each end. Not exactly stiff enough, not adjustable. My dad always said “simpler is ALWAYS better”. This is genius. Thanks
Glad it helped!
Personally I use wooden cauls rounded on one side to keep pressure in the middle, but good tip, and I love your style! Hitting subscribe right now!
Cool, appreciate the sub! 👍😊
I was going to post that, take the wood and plane off each end just a few times from about a third from the edges to form a slight "bow". Then, when you tighten the ends down, you'll get more consistent clamping force across the entire width. I was also thinking to turn the wood caul on edge instead of the "flat" side as it should be stronger and less chance of flex.
Listen my dude. I am only at 1:13 of the video. Had to pause to let you know that because of your comical editing I am subscribing to the channel. So for so good. Cheers
I appreciate that! The world needs a little more light-heartedness, don't you agree?
One add-on for the sticklers out there; you could add some blue tape (or other thin shims) to the middle if you're concerned about getting full pressure at the middle.
Unistrut is a great idea - I never got the hang of making a curved caul on the jointer anyway and you're right, you need 6 hands to put them in place.
Yep - shims, tape, even some strategically placed nylon washers might do the trick!
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworks Or some more threaded fasteners, outboard of the existing ones, to act as spreaders and induce a gentle bow in the opposite direction? (Sorry I'm late to this party, only just had this video recommended to me!)
@@cooperised excellent idea my man. I may steal it for the Part 2 video I’m working on 😁
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworks Sure!
Verry god, simple and effective - Adorei aqui do Brasil esta solução ...
Obrigado, você é muito gentil
You just won a case of my latest lager for having THE best woodworking tool tip I've seen over the last year. Woot yeah!!
Download that lager straight to my face hole sir 😋
Good stuff sir. I often purposely create more work for myself because Ive never used cauls. My stuborn pride results in more time milling and using unnecessary fasterns or techniques to keep wood as flat as possible. This is one of those simple and affordable solutions we ALL should be using. Also, never gets old using and sayig "wingnuts."
Takes a wingnut 👈 to know a wingnut!
I busted a rib from coughing a while back. This video got me laughing so hard, its busted again! Thanks for making my day a little better and giving me a way to save some money while you're at it!
Glad you enjoyed! Just don't hold me responsible for the medical bills! 🤕
Great idea and how-to. I've been using the non-stick backing from mailing labels to protect my wooden cauls from glue, but this idea is better. And I can still use the backing paper if I feel nostalgic. I really like the mountable cam-clamps.
richard
--
Don’t aggravate someone serving you a foamy drink.
Go with the doilies, trust me, the wife will love you for it ❤️
30 seconds and you taught me something that solved a frustration for years. Thank you.
I’ve had a lot of years to come up with this stuff 😂
Loved the video and immediately bought a 10' piece of the 12 gauge. I leaned the 10 against a shelf and noticed that it flexed somewhat where the 12 did not. Also bought the end caps for that 'Rockler' effect. The nut choice I made was to go with a handle nut. I found them on McMaster Carr. They give wrench leverage without a tool. Brilliant design Lee.
@@MrFixmeister handle nut is a great idea. I’m working on a part 2 for this video and I might just put those in!
This is my first time watching you and I have to say, love your presentation!! Also, I'm building me a few of these. This was awesome and so simple.
Welcome aboard! Simple solutions are kind of my jam 😁
I stumbled onto your channel and I really enjoyed the video. Great production quality, I get your humor, and most importantly, it's a great solution.
Welcome aboard! If you truly get my humor, you are in very rare company indeed. 😊
Yes I, too, stumbled on your channel. Very interesting clamping system. Thank you, Lee.
dude, your contest is fab and you present it in such a fun way you deserve FAR more subs!!!!
Thanks dude! Spread the word for me! 😊
He totally does.
Hate to disagree but the heavy smoker's voice is like fingernails on a chalkboard to me. The over-the-top goofiness doesn't transfer to comedy on anyone's level very well. If you remove the grating, annoying silliness, the substantive content (which is actually pretty good) could have been made in about three minutes.
@@kerryflatt5391 I don’t smoke but I did have cancer. Radiation treatments in my neck almost left me with no ability to speak at all, so I’m grateful for whatever voice I have left. Sorry about that 😢.
@@kerryflatt5391 Not a George Carlin fan, are you?
I have used wood cauls in the past that worked ok but found I had to create a slightly crowned surface in order to clamp flat because of board flex. This looks more resistant to flex. Nice touch with the quick clamp instead of the wing nut. Think I’m going to get some of this next time I have a glue up. Thanks!
A couple of things I didn't mention in the video... for one, they have two larger sizes that are even more flex-resistant if you are doing something like a large table or whatever. Second, they make spring nuts (kind of expensive though) that make the setup a little quicker as well. Thanks for stopping by, really appreciate it 😊
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworks thanks for the tip... very cool when you find products from other use cases that work perfectly for woodworking. Similarly, I was upgrading my 5 gallon bucket on my smaller dust separator, and had issues of the bucket collapsing. I found for like $25 you can get a big sump pump basin that has a great top and beefy plastic walls too that has worked out excellent. haha!
Sheet of Teflon or Teflon spray to keep glue from sticking when you don't want it to stick. Good video, I give it a thumbs up.
Thanks for the 👍
You Lee missed your true calling as a comedian. Your delivery is flawless. Facial expressions dead on. Also have the "believe you me" presence . Very entertaining.
Why won't anyone give me a TV show? 🤷♂️😂
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworks They're not the brightest bulbs!
Never thought of using those. I work in a data center, and when we have the contractors come in to do electrical work. They use them and toss a bunch out. Soi can get it free. BUT I have a better idea. Why not use the camps through the holes like you did with the wooden ones. Thanks for the video.
Because I only showed the F-clamps as an example of what I used to do. Nothing stopping anyone from using those but it makes the solution a bit more expensive.
Lee, these videos are outstanding. Your idea far exceeds the idea I had. Thanks.
Awesome! These really work, trust me!
Yep, made my set of these. Found the spring loaded nuts for the rails work well. Make lots of calls to keep from denting your work piece.
Thanks for the video!
Gotta try those spring loaded nuts on my next glue up
35 years ago when I bought my Shop Smith I got 2 of their caul - clamps. These will clamp and put pressure on the flat sides at the same time. It works for glue ups that are 16 inches or less. Then somewhere I found generic ones so now I have 4 and I remember seeing the clamping parts (no wood included) somewhere in a book...
Im not even a wood worker and im excited. 😂
Maybe we can teach you. It’s fun! 🤩
Excellent idea! As you say, some of the off-the-shelf solutions are overengineered, and overpriced.I just love affordable, clever alternatives that can be modified to suit. Thanks for sharing.
That's what I like to do on this channel!
Just wondering, if you put the caul with the rails facing down, what about marring the wood from the pressure being focused through the rails?
As I say in the video, you don’t need to crank down on them that hard…
Sweet idea! I love your humor, you're not a stick in the mud kind a guy. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thanks, and blessings to you too Keith!
An incredibly humorous approach. Great stuff. Can’t believe you don’t have 100K followers.
Maybe one day! 😁
Adding a subscriber right now
There’s my doilies 👉🏼 caught red handed.
Sorry not sorry 😆
We just started a Patreon page. It's free to join! patreon.com/BustedKnuckleWoodworks
Here’s another quick and easy workshop tip! One hour Miter Saw Fence: Part 1 ua-cam.com/video/gP7AVmdyzlM/v-deo.html and Part 2 ua-cam.com/video/aZWcFabXnGk/v-deo.html
Excellent tip & well thought out & shown!! Thank you Busted Knuckle!!
💯 🎯
😅i made an entire greenhouse spanning 20' of pure glass using strut. It's strong. On my channel.
@@TheRainHarvester I will check that out!
i like this cuz its a kind of answer where you get, where others have said "CANT BE DONE"
@@rebeccachambers4701 thanks Rebecca, really appreciate that 🙂
Great idea. I noticed that he filed the cut ends smooth even though he didn't mention it. As an electrician I recommend that you file the ends. Those things can get really sharp burrs that cut pretty bad.
I did file those. And the blue inserts offer some protection as well.
You must to patent it!!!😊
GREAT CALL!!! This is the kind of stuff I do all the time! Rockler's out of it's MIND and so are their customers! It cracks me up when I see shops full of Rockler crap! they have a few useful pieces that aren't too bad on the wallet when there's a sale, but it's NOT the place for impulse shopping, unless your impulse is to be repulsed...
They have sales so often, I feel like their regular prices are meaningless. I have no idea what’s going on there half the time.
You're just like my dad : incredibly funny, have increadibly good ideas and tricks, and also takes 10 minutes to explain things that could've taken 30s. Love it.
😂 thanks! I have found 30 second videos don’t do well on UA-cam 😉
My first time seeing one of your videos. I'm very impressed with your production skills, not to mention humor and absent of useless filler talk. YES, I subscribed without hesitation!!! Thank you very much!
@@Jeff82556 I needed to hear this today! Thank you so much 😊
Great video. Reminds me a bit of The Science Guy when I was a kid. Well done!
I am literally shopping for these today and your video saved me a ton of money. Thank you! God bless!
Cool 😎 love it! Thanks!
I firmly believe Rockler makes those for beginner wood workers. This is a great idea
They make a lot of stuff for beginners for sure
Thank you so much, I had a rough weekend, I clicked this video expecting just some explanation but you did more than explaining something, you put a smile on my face. Thank you for that, I loved this video and I’m a new subscriber now
Sorry about the rough weekend. We all have those from time to time. Glad I could make you smile for a little while! 🙂
Watched a couple of episodes and your video production is great. So is the content. Keep up the good work, it’s much appreciated.
@@gerrydawson oh my, thank you a million!
Hey Lee, this is pretty darn cool. Tks. But are you not a bit concerned that the metal will mark the wood you are glueing up, or is that why you only suggested 2 wing nut turns to tighten…and not to over tighten. I’d feel better with some sort of protection between my wood surface and the 2 channels of the strut . Thoughts?
I hear you on that. I don't usually crank down on these that hard, but if you really need to, you can flip the struts over, which gives you a lot more surface area.
I do find having the open side down is easier, and it’s not usually an issue as long as you don’t over tighten them. If you put the flat side down, the wing nuts don’t fit, so you’d have to modify the clamping mechanism. They make specialty nuts that fit in these channels. They're kind of expensive, but make it so you can have the open side facing away from the wood.
THANK YOU! As a beginner woodworker I really wanted something like that Rockler clamp but didn't want to shell out $260+ for 2!
I know right! Me neither!
That was most excellent, used superstrut in the hvac world for years, never thought about it. Thank you
Love these crossover ideas 💡 for sure!
I did furniture repair for 25 years, what i used to keep glue from sticking was formica blocks. I kept several blocks around that were different lengths and widths. I got mine from old counter tops that were 3/4" thick which is plenty strong for glueing anything. Never in 25 years did I have any issues with glue sticking to the formica blocks.
Interesting idea. Most here probably don’t have access to a supply of old countertops though 🤔
Just found this! Great idea on the strut material Lee, although I was always taught that a caul should have a slight almost imperceptible curve to the clamping face that ensures a uniform pressure from the centre outwards across the glue up board as you tighten them down, (flat ones tend to just clamp on outer edges only )so here's an idea, you could always try planing a curve onto a softwood board, then rip it into strips, & cover them with tape or wax, to attach to the struts as a sacrificial non marring glue proof face,
I wish I had mentioned in the video that they also make two thicker sizes of struts for larger glue ups. As long as you don't overtighten them, these will not flex, so I have never found the curve necessary. A few others have offered similar ideas as you mention here though.
UA-cam served this video up to me at random and the tip was so good, I decided to subscribe. That doesn't happen very often! Thanks for this!
Thank you Tom! Sometimes UA-cam gets it exactly right! 🤌
if you walk into a hardware store or home center and call it super strut they may not know what your talking about . the trade names are known by unistrut and kindorf they also come in 3/4 thick and 1 1/2 in thick. most of the time you find it in galvanized but i have also seen it come with some kind of green coating. there are threaded fittings that slide inside the track so that you can slide threaded rods or bolts to any spot on the track. this allows you to get in right next to the edge of your project.
Unistrut is a similar competing product. They aren’t the same and the sizes are slightly different. Most home centers don’t carry it on the shelf (at least not in the US) but specialty trade suppliers will.
Thanks so much for the video. I almost went out to Rockler to buy what they sell. Glad I didn't. I saved your video for when I'm ready to make one. I have everything in my cart at Home Depot. I think you're very funny and I'm a new subscriber now :)
I like Rockler but geez, they do sell some overpriced, unnecessary tools sometimes...
That's an excellent solution for making clamping cauls. Thanks for sharing your idea.
You bet, it was a fun video to do. And I got to wear my lab coat again! LOL
Great! Saludos from Mexico! 🇲🇽
Saludos desde Austin! 🤠
It’s “easy” to throw money at a problem. It’s brilliant to get quality result with limited resources! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Yeah buddy, you get it! 🫵
Great video Lee, I'll be making these this weekend!
Cool, love ❤️ it!
Hi Lee, Thanks for the super idea. Your video is terrific. Makes me feel as if I've been practicing woodworking in a dark cellar for 50 years and someone just turned the light on for me.
You are too kind. Glad to have you here. I'll leave the light 💡 on for ya!
i like this guy... no overtures.... nice and practical and seems to be having fun doing it!
Thanks… having fun is the most important part!
Worked 35 years in piping, electrical. Uni strut, Universal Strut, Super Strut is used exclusively throughout the trades of Electricians and pipe fitters. There are many varieties and additional add ons that can be found. Try Grainger, Ferguson for starters. Electrical wholesale Stores as well. Not cheap though. For basic use at home , got to Home Depot or Lowe’s . Amazon has better selection of additional bolts, square and round washers. I built a pipe, strut reinforcement backside support for a vinyl fence every other post that was on a slope that is currently holding up to a hurricane Debbie right now.
I have a follow-up for this video where I’m mentioning many of these points. Good tips!
Hi Lee. I saw this a couple of weeks ago and filed it in the old memory banks. I now have a need for these and amazingly remembered your video. This is great info. & I love your humor and presentation. Good enough to get me to subscribe. I'm looking forward to seeing more. Tomorrow I'll be busy at my local big box store....
Excellent! You will definitely find these useful!
One of the best videos online..
I'll be going to Home Depot tomorrow.. thanks for sharing
Thanks for the kind words, glad it was helpful!
Best thing I've seen in the last 12 months. Love it.
So happy you liked it, that's why I do it! 😊
thanks for this great idea. im making them
You’re welcome 😊 Have fun!
Dude, you are soooo entertaining! Love it! Oh, and the info was also great. Thanks
Thank you Mary, much appreciated! 😊
I like to use tapered hardwood cauls that end up keeping steady pressure all the way across the glue up. I wouldn't mind trying these, though, but the thicker stuff is definitely going to be the better choice. Even a little bit of bow/flex in the middle can allow panel movement.
They make these in 1 5/8” and 3 1/4” that you could park a truck on. For larger glue ups those are always an option.
First time I watched this guy after randomly showing up on my feed. I subscribed before the video was done.
Great idea, I have a 28" square panel I need to glue up from 4 smaller panels and was going to use wooden cauls/calls?? Now I'm headed to home store for some of those rails and bolts and 'wingnuts'😊. Thanks for the video.
😂 yep! Or be like the dumb version of me and just “call” someone!
OMG I haven't seen a video this funny in forever thank you so much I'm making one of these two you are the best❤❤❤❤❤❤
@@terrylynn7396 haha I have even funnier ones. This is toned way down for me lol
my favorite woodworking channel by far - thank you for the entertainment and this awesome solution!
Wow, thanks! It’s my mom’s favorite channel too 😁
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworks ROFLMAO🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂!!! Have a great day man!
Best intro in the history of UA-cam. And I'm gonna make some of these!
Thanks 🙏! I bet you could have used these on that walnut desk build…
Sure could. You need to release videos faster!
Valid and useful information combined with a slightly demented (in a good way) sense of humor and killer delivery. Now this is what I’m looking for , useful information and having a great time learning it!!! Thanks dude!!!
Liked and subbed 👍
That's high praise! Thanks for watching!
Great idea. I did some searching and found some even taller Superstrut. A-1200 looks like what Home Depot sells now for $42/10-ft, which is 1-5/8" square. The next taller is the E-1200, 2-7/16" tall. You can even get the H-1200 at 3-1/4" tall. The taller the better to keep the strut from flexing. This should help keep wider boards flatter when gluing up. Something I'd also try is using HDPE inserted into the strut slot to keep the strut from creating grooves in the wood, especially softer wood. HDPE doesn't stick to wood glue and could be inserted into the strut in sections or different lengths, allowing it to fit the width of the glued up board. No matter what you end up getting, it will always be less expensive than the commercial ones that, as you said, are over engineered. A lot of times KISS is the best and least expensive way to do things.
All good suggestions! My channel is focused around economical solutions, so I always try to present the cheapest option for things. I really should have mentioned in the video that they do make much taller struts if you need those. One way to prevent marking the wood is to flip these over, as there is more surface area there; although I find that if you use reasonable pressure, even soft woods like pine won't dent. No need to go too tight. Just "double ugga" like I say in the video! 🙂
Going out to make these this weekend! How have I not heard of this channel until now?!
I think maybe UA-cam has been hiding me? 😉
Just found this channel. I like the video, but really like Lee. Funny and down to earth.
Thanks - great video! You can take this idea a little further by using wedges between the bolts and the work to add clamping pressure to the joints.
I know… a couple others suggested that also. I tried it and it definitely works!
AWESOME!!!!!! I've been looking for this solution forever. You're the Man!!!!!
Working on Part 2 right now. Lots of improvements!
Good caul.
Oh man 🤦🏻♂️ you guys are killin’ me
Thanks for this. You gave me an idea for another application I have been trying to figure out. I have been looking for a way to make consistent router groves for the Microjig dovetail clamps for large surfaces. It appears these superstruts are very heavy duty, nice and long and will stay in place once you screw them down. All I would need to do is place square templates made of MDF on each side, make sure the measurement is consistent throughout, and route my t track slot. From what it appears by the thickness there shouldn't be any flex at all. Thanks!
Oh yeah, there's a thousand uses for this stuff! Very stiff and straight! I've used it for shelving, fencing, you name it. They make it in two larger sizes, for big heavy duty jobs too.
Love this. Love how simple and organized this idea was presented. Definitely doing this in multiple sets/sizes. Thanks Lee!
I have these in a bunch of sizes too! They make even thicker struts, that helps with the really long ones.
I just watched this. Thank you! I subscribed. For not much money I will have four 2-1/2 foot long cauls. Perfect! I will be going to Lowes this weekend.
Thanks for the sub! You will find these very useful, trust me 🙂
Dude, you're funny! I thoroughly enjoyed watching you and this video!! The info is awesome! You are a bit like in using tools/materials from different industries. I actually used to be a Commercial Electrician, but I never thought of this, and I WAS considering those Rockler clamps. But alas! No more you have shown me the way!!! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
I love these struts because they are super handy, and also I suck at welding. All nuts and bolts, works for me!