It’s the beauty of UA-cam, whenever you watch the video look into the comment section because majority of the time that’s when you get the bulk of the information. Sometimes the initial video just get the thought process going, and then the community on UA-cam come up with excellent solutions.
God forbid a UA-camr acknowledging the audiences genius and then giving credit where credit is due. Cool accessory for cutting crown. Sadly, I stick with my slider😂😂😂
Just found your channel and watched part one. Then I looked through your videos and saw this video! What a GREAT follow-up! Fantastic that you give credit to those viewer ideas and share them all with us. You, sir, are awesome!
Lee, Thank you for the plug. You did a much better job of the dovetail grooves than I did. I really like the tape measure idea. Now I have to order the tapes and add them.
Watched your first video on this miter saw fence several weeks ago and purchased all of the materials. I’m going with a 3’ fence on each side. Just found this video and will purchase the mending plate today. Can’t wait to assemble it all this weekend!!
I just found your channel today, 8/25/24. This is only the second of your videos that I have watched, and already you have saved me the time and expense of building a miter station. Thanks. I look forward to watching more of your videos.
Lee, I LOVE the videos... BUT, I have always been told, when cutting always "maintain control" of the piece of wood that is between any stop and the blade. Control= holding on to, a clamp, push stick, etc. In your vid you are cutting stock with you holding on to the wood on the left side of the blade while showing the the piece of wood between the stop and the blade. The idea is, the piece of wood could easily get bound up and kick out and is the one needing control, while the other side NOT bound and will usually just bump out of the way. I managed a shop that cut stretcher/picture frame molding. We used a system that had two people and two chop/mitersaws independently cutting next to each other. Nothing fancy, just two people with two Makita saws standing next to each other. The saws were about 24 inches part. Standing facing the saws, the one on the left would pre-trim/miter cut the end and then slide it to the person on the right and they would cut it to length using a fence stop block.The person on the right side would have the piece under control because it was between the fence stop and the blade. After 6 years and well over a *million (seriously) cuts we only had 12 recorded kickback moments. Of those 12, 10 were from the person on the right not holding/controlling the block. Take notice I believe of your second cut. As the saw returns to the upright position the piece between your stop block and the blade starts to lift slightly. Of the 10 kickback we had, 7 were from the person letting go after the cut and allowing the saw to return to the upright position, without holding the cut piece in place. Once the blade was no longer in contact with the piece, raising above material, obviously in wasn't a problem. *Million... okay I really didn't count, but during our rush holiday season we would make 30,000+ frames (plus the other 8 months of the year x 6 years). Each frame has 8 cuts... that my friend is a LOT of miter cuts!!! Soooooo, if I'm wrong... PLEASE correct my thinking on this one!!!
Great video Lee. I believe a lot of times we as humans look for the most difficult ways to do things when the simplicity is there in plain view. This was one of your best. Thanks for the insight.
I love this. I built a fence system into my outfeed for my mitre saw and it has been a huge pain because when I take the saw off to do baseboards (bring it to the room) etc I have to reset everything. Not to mention the fence takes up 1/3 of the useable space on the bench.
If you bevel the wooden stop, so the relief is towards the fence face, you won't get as much build up of saw dust on it, and thus greater repeat accuracy.
I made something for my old table saw that had a horizontal feed guide base that was attached at a 90 degree angle to the 6 foot auxiliary fence that was connected by F-Clamps. The base was only for the sections that were before and after the table itself, but it helped to keep the wood from moving around constantly. Instead of the angle bracket connected in the back of yours, what about a flat board connected to the bottom and was kept at a true 90 by a couple of metal right angles. If it was a thin enough melamine, it would allow the wood to slide, yet be supported and not weigh too much. By the way, cool video. I just thought this might help. Bust a knuckle!
These are good ideas. I thought about adding a horizontal board to the bottom at 90°, maybe even using pocket screws, but wanted to keep it as simple and inexpensive as possible. Nothing stopping anyone from doing that though!
Nice mods and great video. I plan to do this with my saw. Thanks for the video!! One suggestion on the angle bracket support. If you are using the L-bracket style you showed, I would add a chamfer to the bottom backside of that fence. The L bracket has a crimp/bump in the inside middle of the 90degree angle to give added support. Without a chamfer, the support portion of the L will be pushed down due to that crimp/bump.
That is true. I actually ground that crimp off, I just didn’t show it in the video. A shallow chamfer on the fence is smart and probably an even better option! 👍
OMG!!!!!!!!!!!! This is AMAZING. I was just browsing YT for woodworking videos and you popped up. I love your approach and sense of humor. So happy to have found you. I will be building a TINY(12x10) woodworking shed and this miter saw set-up is going to work well in my shoe box shop. I look forward to watching the rest of your videos.
Another set of great ideas. I like improvements that make things repeatable. I hate seeing people jump through hoops every time they have to do something. It vastly improves everything after when you cut out failure points. Great job.
Love your ingenuity, Lee. Did you know that, if you use a 10 degree dovetail bit, your slot can accommodate Matchfit and Festool and T channel clamps and bolts? There's a guy who did a couple of videos on it. Gotta love a multitasker! Thanks for sharing.
I just spotted your channel, liked and subscribed so far. I have a 1 car garage shop with way toooo many tools. I'm heading to the shop after this video to start planning a fence like yours . Brilliant. I just wish I found your channel sooner because I hate making a temporary fence, stop blocks, you know the drill. Thanks, you saved my miter saw from a life of useless hiding in the corner.
Stop blocks should be always on the left side. Holding the cut piece with your left hand and cut with the right hand. This avoids pieces getting kicked out from the spinning blade, unless blade stops every time after every cut.
Good stuff here. I still prefer the tracks for mounting and stops (especially for mounting to the saw) because repeated install and removal will inevitably wear out the dove tail where it's clamped. In addition to that, the outfeed support should only be used with light trim, as the constant weight of the cut material (especially the farther away the support is from the cut) will lever your mounting hardware until it is sloppy. This is generally why the outfeed arms are part of a base system and not hung from the back stop, which we count on for precision. The obvious alternative is a simple roller stand, less that $20 as Harbor Freight, and is also mobile so it can be used as an infeed support for cutting long sticks of material into small bits. That Fastcap crown fence is awesome though... I might have to look into that thing.
I agree about the tracks. Far more durable for sure, but I wanted to present a lower-cost option for people who already own the Matchfit stuff (essentially free). Good observation on the outfeed support also. It never even occurred to me when I did the first video because I already have it on my stand but as I learned from the comments in the first video, there are many who don’t use a dedicated stand. I thought the ruler trick was brilliant though, and that one never even crossed my mind until I got the photo I showed.
I was thinking that just adding a leg to the end of the long fence would take care of that problem. Just make a piece a few inches longer than the height of your miter saw, add a slot to one end to allow for height adjustment if you use it on uneven ground, and attach it to the t-track/dovetail slot at the end of the fence. When not it use it should all fold together nicely for compact storage.
I have that same saw with that same base and have wanted some convenient way of setting up stop blocks that remained portable. I love this! I wonder if there's a way to rig up a holder on the bottom side of the base that would store the rails when the saw is folded up. The tricky part would be making sure it didn't interfere with the scissor mechanism.
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworks One quick question. If you put a gap under the board in order to handle dust. Wouldn't you want the L bracket being used as a support to have the same spacing from the support board instead of being flush? The board being cut would not be flat on the miter saw.
@@jeff1806 that’s a good point. The 1/8” gap under the fence is small enough that it doesn’t really matter. The L bracket is not that fussy and there’s gonna be a little play in it anyway.
I do a very similar thing, you will notice that over time that the supports will bow and sag making them all but useless. The good news is that they are easy enough to remake but that gets old too. I am now looking for enough bench space along a wall to do a more traditional and permanent setup.
You could always run a channel along the bottom and use an aluminum flip stop in a fixed horizontal position. I'll bet one (or two!) of those puppies won't sag!
I have Wally Kunkel's "How to Master the Radial Saw". My beloved got it for me to go with my Dad's '54 8" radial arm saw. I am in the process of building a new deck. The problem is making an accurate in/out feed tables that either fold down or attach. Amy suggestions? It's got to get through the 28 in door.
Some nice upgrades there. My miter saw was one of my first real woodworking tools, yet it remains my least used. Maybe with some upgrades that could change. Either way, it is a great excuse to get out in the shop and make some sawdust. Besides, now I know why I haven't thrown out those 2x2 scraps of walnut.
I don’t think the slots would line up with the holes in the miter saw, and the front wouldn’t be flat. I show a lot more about how to line it up in Part 1 of this video
Enjoyed both videos. Now can you do the same thing to simplify a table saw outfeed table? One that will work for a rear motor saw. That would be great.
If you're going to use MDF and route out a dovetail, I suggest making a couple quick passes down the table saw first to remove some material from the middle of where the dovetail will be. It will be much easier and safer to route out then.
Saw the first video & loved it! Got chuckles and a great idea & now improvements on the improvement - thanks for sharing the ideas that were shared by others!!! You've got a new follower! Soon as I get the parts I'm soooooooo making this!!!
I love your sense of humor man and great editing! I'm curious if you can please share or do a video on your French cleat wall. I'm trying to plan some cordless tool storage and love your setup.
I really like the idea of the in-set ruler, but I feel that the inside of the T-track is a bit too far away resulting in possible inaccuracies. I would probably just cut a shallow groove for the tape instead, going just a smidge too deep rather than leaving it proud so it won't interfere with your workpiece.
Great video and good ideas. I may be in the minority, but I would prefer a flip stop to hard stop. I realize there can be deflection but just my preference.
As long as the kerf doesn’t change you will be fine. The kerf should be 1/8” (there’s no reason to install a thin kerf blade on a miter saw). Of course you are correct in that the tape won’t be accurate for angle cuts.
Put a magnet in your adjustable stop and get a sacrificial feeler gauge. Then u can use the feelers on the magnet to make small adjustments without fiddleing with the adjustable stop screw. cheers!
I love FastCap products, but their Crown Stop Fence has a major design flaw. It was designed strictly for DeWalt 12” miter saws. Not all of us are fans of the yellow & black.
Don't know that I'd call that a "flaw." The DeWalt is the biggest-selling 12" miter saw out there among trim and finish carpenters, so it makes sense for them to support that one first. I am told they plan to make it for other saws soon, but no word as to which one(s).
I loved your 1st part and was thinking of building that. Now ill build that with your new improvements. Thanks My only improvement would be adding some sacrificial ends for zero clearance cuts, to minimize tear outs. That means you would have to eliminate the measuring tapes. Well more to think about while i build it.
Damn I love that crown fence… I would always just mark my fence with pencil and hold the crown to my line. And looking at the price I’m going to have to make my own or keep using my old pencil method lol (sucks being a very broke carpenter in 2024 hahaha :/). I think I can make my own fence very similar just out of scraps though. I haven’t ran crown in a while but a few years ago all I did was crown and stair work on $20 million dollar mansions outside of the Twin Cities.
3D printer and design/print the brackets. By rounding the edges, clumsy buckets like me won’t scratch and bleed from the L brackets. Still use the L brackets for strength inserting the 3D part flush with the L bracket. :P NEw to your channel, instant fan. I used to be a Finish Carpenter.
I went with the machfit solution since I had the router bit. $9 mdf 8' board, $4 of bolts/nuts, $4 for mending joint plates, and a few 3d printed parts to fit in the dovetail grooves and put knobs on the bolts. I am up and running with repeatable cuts and fast setup/takedown. And if my dovetails ever "tear out" (hasn't happened yet) I can buy many more mdf boards before I approach the cost of t-track.
We just started a Patreon page. It's free to join! patreon.com/BustedKnuckleWoodworks
Kudos taking feedback from your viewers and the L bracket is super simple yet effective. 👍
The viewers are way smarter than me!
It’s the beauty of UA-cam, whenever you watch the video look into the comment section because majority of the time that’s when you get the bulk of the information. Sometimes the initial video just get the thought process going, and then the community on UA-cam come up with excellent solutions.
Yep, that’s exactly what happened! Hive mind activated!
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworksnot only that, but now I am traveling backwards in time inside your shop.. binge watch mode activate!
Great ideas. I was planning to weld a steel mobile stand for my miter saw and am now going to add sliding out-feed brackets to the design.
That sounds amazing! I wish I knew how to weld 😢. If only there was some site where I could find videos to learn. Oh wait… 😉
HOLY BUCKETS. This video -- and all of the viewer-upgrades you shared -- ROCK.
Thanks so much Daniel!
You´re a breath of fresh air... Funny and useful at the same time.
Thanks my good man!
God forbid a UA-camr acknowledging the audiences genius and then giving credit where credit is due. Cool accessory for cutting crown. Sadly, I stick with my slider😂😂😂
I have slowly come to realize I don’t know everything 🤷🏻♂️
Just found your channel and watched part one. Then I looked through your videos and saw this video! What a GREAT follow-up! Fantastic that you give credit to those viewer ideas and share them all with us. You, sir, are awesome!
My viewers are often way smarter than me!
Great video - I love how he considers feedback from viewers and shares it with everyone for constant improvements.
Thanks!
My viewers are usually way smarter than me!
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworks ❤
Lee, Thank you for the plug. You did a much better job of the dovetail grooves than I did. I really like the tape measure idea. Now I have to order the tapes and add them.
Thanks for the photos, really appreciate it!
Watched your first video on this miter saw fence several weeks ago and purchased all of the materials. I’m going with a 3’ fence on each side. Just found this video and will purchase the mending plate today. Can’t wait to assemble it all this weekend!!
Good stuff! That mending plate really helps for sure!
I just found your channel today, 8/25/24. This is only the second of your videos that I have watched, and already you have saved me the time and expense of building a miter station. Thanks. I look forward to watching more of your videos.
Keep watching, I think they’re getting better as I go 😊
Lee, I LOVE the videos... BUT, I have always been told, when cutting always "maintain control" of the piece of wood that is between any stop and the blade. Control= holding on to, a clamp, push stick, etc. In your vid you are cutting stock with you holding on to the wood on the left side of the blade while showing the the piece of wood between the stop and the blade.
The idea is, the piece of wood could easily get bound up and kick out and is the one needing control, while the other side NOT bound and will usually just bump out of the way.
I managed a shop that cut stretcher/picture frame molding. We used a system that had two people and two chop/mitersaws independently cutting next to each other. Nothing fancy, just two people with two Makita saws standing next to each other. The saws were about 24 inches part.
Standing facing the saws, the one on the left would pre-trim/miter cut the end and then slide it to the person on the right and they would cut it to length using a fence stop block.The person on the right side would have the piece under control because it was between the fence stop and the blade.
After 6 years and well over a *million (seriously) cuts we only had 12 recorded kickback moments. Of those 12, 10 were from the person on the right not holding/controlling the block. Take notice I believe of your second cut. As the saw returns to the upright position the piece between your stop block and the blade starts to lift slightly. Of the 10 kickback we had, 7 were from the person letting go after the cut and allowing the saw to return to the upright position, without holding the cut piece in place. Once the blade was no longer in contact with the piece, raising above material, obviously in wasn't a problem.
*Million... okay I really didn't count, but during our rush holiday season we would make 30,000+ frames (plus the other 8 months of the year x 6 years). Each frame has 8 cuts... that my friend is a LOT of miter cuts!!!
Soooooo, if I'm wrong... PLEASE correct my thinking on this one!!!
Kind of a bad habit of mine, I know. The potential of kickback is very low (much lower than on a table saw), but it definitely isn't "zero."
Great video Lee. I believe a lot of times we as humans look for the most difficult ways to do things when the simplicity is there in plain view. This was one of your best. Thanks for the insight.
Thanks Kevin, I overlooked a lot of this stuff when I made the first video!
I love this. I built a fence system into my outfeed for my mitre saw and it has been a huge pain because when I take the saw off to do baseboards (bring it to the room) etc I have to reset everything. Not to mention the fence takes up 1/3 of the useable space on the bench.
Miter saws are space killers. I wanted to make something that would be accurate yet portable...
Awesome upgrades! The L bracket is genius! Simple and effective... I would have overcomplicated that upgrade 😅
You and me both! 😁
Excellent video and it's exactly the kind of stuff I want to see when I watch UA-cam, You are a really resourceful guy and a great host! Well done!!!
Thanks Pierre, that’s quite a compliment coming from you 👍
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworks well deserved 🫵💪
Wow, that miter fence “rules” now! Well done!
😂 good one!
The advantage of using a T Track on the front of the fence is additional strength/rigidity to keep the fence straight.
That is true, though that’s not usually a problem with manufactured materials like MDF.
If you bevel the wooden stop, so the relief is towards the fence face, you won't get as much build up of saw dust on it, and thus greater repeat accuracy.
Excellent idea!
I made something for my old table saw that had a horizontal feed guide base that was attached at a 90 degree angle to the 6 foot auxiliary fence that was connected by F-Clamps. The base was only for the sections that were before and after the table itself, but it helped to keep the wood from moving around constantly. Instead of the angle bracket connected in the back of yours, what about a flat board connected to the bottom and was kept at a true 90 by a couple of metal right angles. If it was a thin enough melamine, it would allow the wood to slide, yet be supported and not weigh too much. By the way, cool video. I just thought this might help. Bust a knuckle!
These are good ideas. I thought about adding a horizontal board to the bottom at 90°, maybe even using pocket screws, but wanted to keep it as simple and inexpensive as possible. Nothing stopping anyone from doing that though!
Nice mods and great video. I plan to do this with my saw. Thanks for the video!! One suggestion on the angle bracket support. If you are using the L-bracket style you showed, I would add a chamfer to the bottom backside of that fence. The L bracket has a crimp/bump in the inside middle of the 90degree angle to give added support. Without a chamfer, the support portion of the L will be pushed down due to that crimp/bump.
That is true. I actually ground that crimp off, I just didn’t show it in the video. A shallow chamfer on the fence is smart and probably an even better option! 👍
Just saw your answer to the outfeed support in the 2nd video. Thanks!
Great, hope it helps
OMG!!!!!!!!!!!! This is AMAZING. I was just browsing YT for woodworking videos and you popped up. I love your approach and sense of humor. So happy to have found you. I will be building a TINY(12x10) woodworking shed and this miter saw set-up is going to work well in my shoe box shop. I look forward to watching the rest of your videos.
Awesome! Let me know what you think of them! (Make sure to check out part 1 of this video, it’s a good one. 👍) And good luck with your shed!
Another set of great ideas. I like improvements that make things repeatable. I hate seeing people jump through hoops every time they have to do something. It vastly improves everything after when you cut out failure points. Great job.
Thank you, that’s what I’m here for!
Love your ingenuity, Lee. Did you know that, if you use a 10 degree dovetail bit, your slot can accommodate Matchfit and Festool and T channel clamps and bolts? There's a guy who did a couple of videos on it. Gotta love a multitasker! Thanks for sharing.
Wow, did not know that! Super awesome tip! 👍
I just spotted your channel, liked and subscribed so far. I have a 1 car garage shop with way toooo many tools. I'm heading to the shop after this video to start planning a fence like yours . Brilliant. I just wish I found your channel sooner because I hate making a temporary fence, stop blocks, you know the drill. Thanks, you saved my miter saw from a life of useless hiding in the corner.
Oh yes I definitely do know that drill! This saved my miter saw from the horrors of being put up on Facebook Marketplace 😂
I like when people go to the essential. many youtubers present overkilled installations and tools indeed. Simple is beautiful.
Practicality and common sense beats expensive and flashy every time!
Sir!
This is an excellent video.
Your mother and I are so proud of you for giving credit to all of the commenters for their input.
They deserve it for sure!
This is absolutely genius. I'm gonna share it.
Please do! And thank you 🙏
Thanks for the shout out Lee.
Thanks for the photos sir!
You are seriously an underrated channel. Awesome!
My wife agrees 😄
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworks 👍❤️
Stop blocks should be always on the left side. Holding the cut piece with your left hand and cut with the right hand. This avoids pieces getting kicked out from the spinning blade, unless blade stops every time after every cut.
You can set up the stop block on either side for sure.
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworks true. Safer to hold the piece that is against the stop block, what ever side its on.
@@brucemiller1696 true dat 👍 I do have a bad habit of not doing that
Looks like you saved the best for the end of the year Lee. These are all fantastic ideas. Have a Happy New Year everyone! 🎉🎉🎉
Thanks! Happy New Year to you! 🎉
I would love to be this guys protégé! Probably my favorite woodworking channel cause it's so easy to get inspired by Lee
Thanks! 🙏 very kind of you to say 😁
Thanks for your effort and time, I wasn't familiar with Matchfit until now.
Definitely look into it, they have some cool stuff
Jeeze, I’m not a woodworker but holy mackerel those fences are so cool, with so many features!
Thanks man, appreciate you giving it a watch 😊
Good stuff here. I still prefer the tracks for mounting and stops (especially for mounting to the saw) because repeated install and removal will inevitably wear out the dove tail where it's clamped. In addition to that, the outfeed support should only be used with light trim, as the constant weight of the cut material (especially the farther away the support is from the cut) will lever your mounting hardware until it is sloppy. This is generally why the outfeed arms are part of a base system and not hung from the back stop, which we count on for precision. The obvious alternative is a simple roller stand, less that $20 as Harbor Freight, and is also mobile so it can be used as an infeed support for cutting long sticks of material into small bits. That Fastcap crown fence is awesome though... I might have to look into that thing.
I agree about the tracks. Far more durable for sure, but I wanted to present a lower-cost option for people who already own the Matchfit stuff (essentially free). Good observation on the outfeed support also. It never even occurred to me when I did the first video because I already have it on my stand but as I learned from the comments in the first video, there are many who don’t use a dedicated stand. I thought the ruler trick was brilliant though, and that one never even crossed my mind until I got the photo I showed.
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworks yes, the ruler trick is clever. Thanks for the great videos!
I was thinking that just adding a leg to the end of the long fence would take care of that problem. Just make a piece a few inches longer than the height of your miter saw, add a slot to one end to allow for height adjustment if you use it on uneven ground, and attach it to the t-track/dovetail slot at the end of the fence. When not it use it should all fold together nicely for compact storage.
I have that same saw with that same base and have wanted some convenient way of setting up stop blocks that remained portable. I love this! I wonder if there's a way to rig up a holder on the bottom side of the base that would store the rails when the saw is folded up. The tricky part would be making sure it didn't interfere with the scissor mechanism.
That’s an interesting question. I just drilled a 1/2” hole in the end and hang them on the wall. I will have to look next time I’m in the shop
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworks That would be awesome!
I'm glad I looked at this 2nd video. I have Matchfit hardware and will build this with those. Thanks for making this video.
Yeah that’s a great idea 💡
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworks One quick question. If you put a gap under the board in order to handle dust. Wouldn't you want the L bracket being used as a support to have the same spacing from the support board instead of being flush? The board being cut would not be flat on the miter saw.
@@jeff1806 that’s a good point. The 1/8” gap under the fence is small enough that it doesn’t really matter. The L bracket is not that fussy and there’s gonna be a little play in it anyway.
I do a very similar thing, you will notice that over time that the supports will bow and sag making them all but useless. The good news is that they are easy enough to remake but that gets old too. I am now looking for enough bench space along a wall to do a more traditional and permanent setup.
You could always run a channel along the bottom and use an aluminum flip stop in a fixed horizontal position. I'll bet one (or two!) of those puppies won't sag!
Between this video and your clamping caul video, the only 2 I’ve seen so far, you’ve made me a new subscriber, thanx!
Be sure to watch part 1 of the miter saw video. It’s really good! 😊
I have Wally Kunkel's "How to Master the Radial Saw". My beloved got it for me to go with my Dad's '54 8" radial arm saw. I am in the process of building a new deck. The problem is making an accurate in/out feed tables that either fold down or attach. Amy suggestions? It's got to get through the 28 in door.
I’m not sure I can help with that one, but maybe someone else can! Never owned a radial arm saw…
Very smart upgrades, Lee!!! Great job! ❤
Thanks Mila! ❤️
Some nice upgrades there. My miter saw was one of my first real woodworking tools, yet it remains my least used. Maybe with some upgrades that could change. Either way, it is a great excuse to get out in the shop and make some sawdust. Besides, now I know why I haven't thrown out those 2x2 scraps of walnut.
Unnecessary walnut must be included in every project. Don’t ask me why, I don’t make the rules. 🤷
Wow! I've been using the miter saw wrong all these year. Great video.
Not “wrong,” just different! 😁
Yes, the hard way different. Haha@@BustedKnuckleWoodworks
I made outfeed supports out of wood. I can take them off and reverse the T bolt and use them as stops on the front.
That's a super smart idea! Love it!
Perfect idea with great upgrades. Thanks man!
You bet!
Wow, this is all great. Most of all is your ability to accept suggestions/corrections.
Most of my videos, my viewers come up with great suggestions!
Great video jammed packed with tips and tricks, love it!
Don't own a miter saw but couldn't a track-saw track be used??? they do have T slots...
I don’t think the slots would line up with the holes in the miter saw, and the front wouldn’t be flat. I show a lot more about how to line it up in Part 1 of this video
Enjoyed both videos. Now can you do the same thing to simplify a table saw outfeed table? One that will work for a rear motor saw. That would be great.
Great suggestion! I may just do that if I find a rear motor saw to try it on.
If you're going to use MDF and route out a dovetail, I suggest making a couple quick passes down the table saw first to remove some material from the middle of where the dovetail will be. It will be much easier and safer to route out then.
Generally a wise idea... I would do that with hardwood but no need with MDF really.
Saw the first video & loved it! Got chuckles and a great idea & now improvements on the improvement - thanks for sharing the ideas that were shared by others!!! You've got a new follower! Soon as I get the parts I'm soooooooo making this!!!
Improvements on the improvements? 😮 NOICE! 😁 Send pics!
Cool information! I’ll have to watch this again.
Yes, please! Several times hopefully 😁
I love your sense of humor man and great editing! I'm curious if you can please share or do a video on your French cleat wall. I'm trying to plan some cordless tool storage and love your setup.
I have one planned for this summer! 👍😁
How bout Spring?! Hahaha
@@SGT._ROSIE maybe? 🤷🏻♂️
Merry Christmas, Lee! You're the man!
Those are photos of my actual arms in the thumbnail
Man I love the content, as someone who is just starting.
Lots more here, and more coming!
Great follow-up video. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great tips Lee Thanks for sharing
You bet, happy to have you here!
Does the addition of the additional fence throw off the angles?
Not at all
Very Nice Lee, thank you for sharing.
You bet 👍
I really like the idea of the in-set ruler, but I feel that the inside of the T-track is a bit too far away resulting in possible inaccuracies. I would probably just cut a shallow groove for the tape instead, going just a smidge too deep rather than leaving it proud so it won't interfere with your workpiece.
Yeah, that did cross my mind. The tape is totally flat, so you could actually just stick it on there and be done.
I have a small shop. You just gave me, the answer! I want to thank you for this insight.
You are so welcome. Small shops unite! ✊
Great video and good ideas. I may be in the minority, but I would prefer a flip stop to hard stop. I realize there can be deflection but just my preference.
Sure, totally doable if you install the track on top of the fence I would think.
This is just what I needed. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Great follow up!! Thanks!
@@s44577 told ya! Overcame those trust issues 😁
Great video, thank you, and happy new year
Happy new year 🎊 to you 🥳
Oh wow, I definitely gonna build this. Super useful! 🎉🎉🎉
You bet it is! 🏆
Reference the tape measure, won't you have to reset it each time you change the blade (and kerf) and each time you miter at an angle?
As long as the kerf doesn’t change you will be fine. The kerf should be 1/8” (there’s no reason to install a thin kerf blade on a miter saw). Of course you are correct in that the tape won’t be accurate for angle cuts.
Put a magnet in your adjustable stop and get a sacrificial feeler gauge. Then u can use the feelers on the magnet to make small adjustments without fiddleing with the adjustable stop screw. cheers!
Hey thanks, pretty good idea 👍 💡
I love FastCap products, but their Crown Stop Fence has a major design flaw. It was designed strictly for DeWalt 12” miter saws. Not all of us are fans of the yellow & black.
Don't know that I'd call that a "flaw." The DeWalt is the biggest-selling 12" miter saw out there among trim and finish carpenters, so it makes sense for them to support that one first. I am told they plan to make it for other saws soon, but no word as to which one(s).
I love this! Thanks for this... something else I love? Your podcast!!! 👊
Thanks, love ❤️ the podcast listeners! We’ve got another cranky one coming April 6! 🤬
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworks I can't wait!!!!
Nice Video. I like your track solution better than the trackless solution.
Yeah I mostly use the track version since that’s what I’ve been using for years now
What stand are you using for your muted saw? Looks like a really good one
DeWalt DWX726 is the model number.
Glad Trevor Philips got into woodworking. Great advice!
I didn’t know who Trevor Phillips was and had to google it. Which proves I’m actually old enough to be Trevor Phillips.
Outstanding idea. Thanks.
You are welcome!
Great job, Lee. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!
I have two portable feed supports, fully adjustable, floor-suported
Did you make them? Would love to see a photo
Love the CA glue and bare hands. How many projects are you very attached to? :)
I glued myself to a chair two weeks ago, so just that one right now 😂
Need a hold down clamp on the the offcut side if using a stop or switch to left hand cutting.
Most saws do have a hold down clamp. You certainly want to be careful with how you go about it.
very informative I plan on buying the router motor.
I reviewed this router motor in a separate video. Very impressed with its performance!
Awesome , you could additionally add folding struts to support the work piece if like me, you dont have the base for it.
That’s an interesting idea. If you try it send me a photo!
That is awesome. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
I loved your 1st part and was thinking of building that. Now ill build that with your new improvements. Thanks
My only improvement would be adding some sacrificial ends for zero clearance cuts, to minimize tear outs. That means you would have to eliminate the measuring tapes. Well more to think about while i build it.
It would be interesting to see if you could do both zero clearance and keep the tape. I will have to give that some thought.
Great tips! I assume the measuring system only works for 90 degree cuts?
If you register it like I showed, yes. But I have a separate fence that’s registered for 45°, they’re cheap to make!
Great comments from the viewers on tips & tricks .......
The viewers are usually way smarter than me 😆
1:25 when making repetitive cuts using stops, always hold down the piece otherwise it will kick back and you'll have a bad day.
True. It’s a bad habit of mine.
Huey Lewis doing carpentry. UA-cam is awesome
Check out the video thumbnail that says “It’s Hip to be Square.” One of my best tunes. 😁
Great upgrades.
Thanks! Especially the ruler. Makes this even more useful
could you use the same dimensions of the dovetail bit to accomplish the job instead of paying $25 for a bit? found one for half the price
Yep, as long as it’s a 14° dovetail bit it will definitely work 👍
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworks what i assumed just wanted to double check :)
Man, your videos are killer, I love em!
Thank you so much, appreciate it! 😁
Excellent 🤟
Rock on! 🤘
Damn I love that crown fence… I would always just mark my fence with pencil and hold the crown to my line. And looking at the price I’m going to have to make my own or keep using my old pencil method lol (sucks being a very broke carpenter in 2024 hahaha :/).
I think I can make my own fence very similar just out of scraps though. I haven’t ran crown in a while but a few years ago all I did was crown and stair work on $20 million dollar mansions outside of the Twin Cities.
The crown fence is a nice invention, and the guys at FastCap are awesome to work with!
Don't you some deflection on the 4ft side, it wouldn't take much to make the cut out of square?
Not sure I follow you
Do you have a background in media? cinematography or other? These videos are so good.
Thanks! No background in video or cinematography at all. I just watch a lot of Netflix 🤷🏻♂️
Great Job Sir😉👍🏽
Thank you! Cheers!
3D printer and design/print the brackets. By rounding the edges, clumsy buckets like me won’t scratch and bleed from the L brackets. Still use the L brackets for strength inserting the 3D part flush with the L bracket. :P NEw to your channel, instant fan. I used to be a Finish Carpenter.
Shoot me an email, so I can provide an address for you to gift me a 3D printer 😂
Now, all you have to do is start working on dust collection, for the miter saw!
I have an idea for that. If it works I’ll make a video about it 👍
I went with the machfit solution since I had the router bit. $9 mdf 8' board, $4 of bolts/nuts, $4 for mending joint plates, and a few 3d printed parts to fit in the dovetail grooves and put knobs on the bolts. I am up and running with repeatable cuts and fast setup/takedown. And if my dovetails ever "tear out" (hasn't happened yet) I can buy many more mdf boards before I approach the cost of t-track.
Awesome! 👏 Very economical solution, especially if you already have the router bit!
Does it not sag? Feels like it'll have a bit of a droop
If the bolts are tight I find it’s okay. There might be a little bit of play but not enough to bother me.