I made the other type of DIY track, instead of a channel where the saw glides, like this one, the guide just have a straight edge on the same side of the motor of the saw and the other side the saw disc cuts flush with the edge of the board, eliminating the need to plunge the saw to make the initial cut and drilling those big holes to see and align the track to the line you will be cutting. Another advantage is that you can easily make the track longer. In my case I tried to use sandpaper to make the track stay on the surface, eventually it failed. My solution was to add a strip of wood to the track with some pocket holes and made it wider. Now I can easily put some clamps and the saw doesnt hit them. For the ones criticizing and saying it doesnt do the same as a track saw, well, first you deserve some prize for being captain obvious... you nailed it. Of course isn't the same as real track saw but I can tell you it does almost the same work, cuts straight like a track saw and works just as easy as a track saw. If you're worried that the cut "won't look as good" as a cut made by a real tracksaw then there's a good solution for this. Get a disc for your circular saw with a high teeth count, that will give you a cleaner cut. After I made my jig I stopped thinking about getting a track saw, no need for a tool I will use occasionally, all are overpriced and doesnt have the many uses a circular saw has.
I had a jig like you described (door board jig) and I would occasionally drift away from the fence. The tape I used is designed for traction in slippery areas so it should hold up really well. Thanks for taking the time to comment and for watching.
@@chichidouglas5078: yes, but you made the jig because you wandered off your own line, eh? And you’re board tipped at the end of your cut and that was a failure of 1) care, 2)was very dangerous, and as education negligent!
@@HouseDoctorRay you are lying about a company wanting to take it down, that means clickbait and a defamation lawsuit waiting to happen. Not sure how that is the best way to get your foot on the door.
@@kg6198 Jeez, people need to lighten up.... whats with all the haters, truly youtube comments sections & social media in general have become a cancer on society... 🙄😒
@@peterfitzpatrick7032 i pointed out the problem of having a misleading and defamatory title. I don't understand why you had to go on a rant about me pointing out what could be the issue with his title. Am I wrong??
Thanks for the idea. I built one today and it works great. I was a little hesitant to trust the grip tape, but I made a few long cuts with no issues with the guide slipping. I made a few modifications: 1) I made mine 7ft long because I have a project needing 6ft cuts 2) I added a dab of construction glue every few inches to the "mesh" area of the tile edge, just to make sure it doesn't move in the future 3) I used small 3/8in plywood blocks at the ends rather than the metal - I wanted a hole on one end from which to hang the guide when I am not using it.
You don't need to resort to bogus claims like "Festool wants to ban this" type titles for your videos - Festool couldn't care less if someone makes their own jig - You can just say "great idea for a DIY tracksaw" and people will still click on it because it legitimately is a great idea for a DIY tracksaw. Thanks for sharing the idea
Unfortunately the way YT and viewers work if you don't have ridiculous titles and thumbnails you have little chance of being seen. This video was out for almost 3 months with very few views. I changed the title and picture and viola!
Yes he does have to resort to these types of titles because 90% of people respond to them. I mean please tell me you make this comment on all the other videos you watch? Good video dude, it was interesting
I made this today - very easy and it works great. Thank you for your time and trouble. I shouldn't lose any sleep over the self-righteous A-holes hating on you - they need to get over themselves. All the best.
I've seen a few of these. One issue is that you have to drop into them all of the time. With a small modification it can be shorter, cut farther, be more stable, and allow you to cut from the end. What you do is, at the end instead of more of the aluminum, put a thick piece of wood on the underside, perhaps 2x2. That will act as a catch at the end of your piece to allow it to be even more stable and not slip. Then, as long as you don't cut down into it too far, you can start your cuts right at the end in a conventional manner.
@@martinmeasures829 A bench hook method would work so long as you make sure it's 100% accurately straight. I've done this, because even though I really really want Santa to bring me a Festool for Christmas, I can't see it happening and can't afford to pull the trigger on that yet.
@@martinmeasures829 I think it would be better to not depend on the end pieces being perfectly square to use them as bench hooks. Instead I would not have them contact the sides of the workbench and then line the slot up with the line to be cut.
that is a decent idea as well, the problem with it though is if the cut is longer then the track then it wont work because when you slide the track up it will be resting on the 2x2, if the cut is more or less then 90 degrees it makes that lip a hindrance as apposed to a convenience,
I have tried many types of variations on this theme, including just using a couple pieces of plywood and making a 0 clearance track. Works pretty good, but once you buy a track saw (in my case a Makita) there is no going back, especially when you add an attachment like a TSO edge guide. It just makes your life so much easier and frustration free. True not everyone can afford one, or even wants one, but for my type of workworking, that saw, track and square has saved me a ton of time. Don't get me wrong, I am no tool snob, and spent years using just okay tools, that's why it is such a joy to get better at your craft, so you can sell your work and invest in nice tools...and who of us doesn't love nice tools?
Enjoyed your video! Excellent idea with the tile edge. I built exactly the same way, although i went one step further and made my plywood 12" wide..this allowed me to actually place 4" tile and grout up to edge. With the added weight it has i avoided having to use the underside tape. And...my wife loves it too...she picked the tile!
I had no idea where this was going but by the end, I'm convinced of it's geniusness. I super appreciate the "bootstrapping" here without much additional other things, e.g., table saw. This is a total win, and I'll be building this myself. Again, GENIUS.
@@daveortwine2641 what’s wrong with you? Are you jealous? Or maybe you are one of those rich kids with every single piece of gear of the most expensive brand? Get a life, the idea is great and we are saving tons of cash. Bye.
You sound a bit 'jealous' mate. Just take it on the chin, the fact that you never came up with this idea. Never mind, you can work on a revolutionary 21st century bog brush, and put your name to it.
I’m a finish carpenter. This exact build wouldn’t work for me when dealing with a finished product but it has given me some good ideas for building something similar. Thank you!
@@christophercharles9645 actual track saws use rubber on their tracks, black rubber. I suppose one can always come up with a setting in which otherwise perfectly fine tool/DIY solution wouldn't work. When you work with some delicate finished surface that you must cut but leave no marks whatsoever on it, perhaps circular saw (in any form) isn't even the right tool?
If your a finish carpenter and you don't actually have a proper track saw then you have been missing out for years. This is a great DIY hack, but that's it, it has no place in a professionals tool box (or anyone who doesn't want to compromise).
I came across this video and it was exactly what i was looking for. I got the tracks at my local Lowes and ordered the tape. After i installed the tracks and the tape i put some Johnson paste wax on the plywood to help the saw slide. Thanks for posting this.
Dude You have helped me out emminslly. I've been a Carpenter for year's. What we use to do was clamp thick enough wood on the opposite side of saw so it don't slide around or vibrate to much. Sometimes that works good. But your method is easier. My eyes ain't what they use to be at age 50. So I need precision cuts that's easier to use than a miter saw. Thank you
I made one pretty much the same a few years ago, what I did differently regarding the saw was, I dedicated an old yard sale saw to the track, removed the spring loaded guard, installed a spring in the height adjustment slide and now have an old saw that acts like an actual track saw, also depending on the make and age of the saw, you can utilize the fan air and direct that air down a small Polley tube to blow the dust away from in front of your saw, it looks janky, but it works.
I have a tracksaw, but I'm making this as well for my circ saw. But I'll bump out the tile edging so I can place it against the benchdogs (perfectly squared using UJK parf guide). This way, I don't have to fight the long tracks anymore. Very practical and simple - the best DIY solution for tracksaw I've seen to date. Thanks. I would caution anyone though, @8:17 support your pieces so it doesn't collapse and pinch the blade.
Ditto I have a Kreg Accu Cut and most likely making one of these instead. Accu Cut is ok at best, PITA to reset saw after first use in the same location and even with saw flush against top surface doesn’t make perfectly square cuts?
After building 3 different similar saw guides I appreciate your innovation using the tile edging. Ultimately I bought a Kreg track saw and guides for the dust collection capabilities. My shop is only 400 sq ft so keeping the sawdust under control is important. It’s a good video; no need for the clickbait title.
I love this idea! I’ve been a carpenter for over 40 yrs. I can pop a chalk line or use a pencil line and freehand the cut and it is difficult to tell which edge is factory!You must like the saw you use and use the proper speed consistently!
I'm with you! If you've been at it long enough like me and have a saw and a blade that your good with go for it. I just make sure my cord is not going to get caught and I can make the complete run without stopping. But building cabinets I cut about an 8th inch bigger and then clean the smaller pieces up on the table saw. Just saying.
I’ve had one of these jigs for 30 years. Best thing I ever built. I wish I could remember who showed it to me. I’m sure it was from shop notes or something similar. No such thing as UA-cam. Mine was simpler but works basically the same.
What a great tool, thanks for the details, ill be making this . I also just connect my Henry Vav as my dust extraction for power tools, you just have to position the hose to avoid clashing. Also use the Henry Fabric bags, not cheap on line paper bags as the dust seems to pass through paper.
Man, that's kind of genius. That's a nice simple, elegant way to make a dead straight cut! And it's cheap enough that you (i.e. me) could make them in a variety of lengths, and even with different saws for different purposes. Thanks!
Not yet. A few of the better suggestions here are non slip silicone tape or Flex Seal. Another is routing a groove on the bottom for clamps. Maybe the MicroJig Match Fit clamps.
I've since then built a track for my circular saw, and am satisfied. Instead I repurposed old entry way trim ( that's inside the door way). I appreciate your help
Honestly I've been contemplating a track saw my whole house build so far but couldn't justify it. This tho sir is stellar and will be seeing use in Paradise. Thank you for sharing!
I built a couple of saw tracks similar to this a few years ago. I used them constantly while rebuilding a house in Arizona. There are many different methods, but this one looks really nice because it keeps the saw straight without having to force it up against the jig. I lost (or maybe just left) my tracks when I moved to Oregon, so now I have to build new ones (one for the full 8' length of a sheet of ply, and another shorter one for the width). I might even build a shorter one for smaller pieces of ply. These things are so cheap that you can build several of them for different uses and locations. I'm a real estate investor, so when I have properties that I'm working on, I can leave a set in the house I'm remodeling. I'd MUCH rather someone break into my shed or an empty house and steal a $8 home-made track than a $800 Festool!
totally Agree that's awesome that you've built something like this! I'd also much prefer getting a $8 item stolen than my nice tools, which is sadly part of the business now a days as real estate investors
Great idea and wonderful step by step teaching on how to do the build. You’ve made it simple enough for this farm kid to do it with no problem. Thank you!
For years I have just been clamping a piece of MDF to the work and running my saw along it. I think it's cool that Festool has all these neat gadgets but let's face it, they did not invent running a tool along a straightedge. Works great with routers too if you want to get a finished edge.
You are full of a lot of great ideas!!! Thank you! Never bought one of those because they seem so expensive. I'm either clamping down my level or looking for a straight piece of wood when I need to cut something with my worm drive. Thanks for aonther great idea!
Love this video & the jig. I like it that I don't need expensive table saws etc. to make it. Not all of us can afford those expensive tools. This is perfect for simple DIYers like me. Thanks very much. More simple videos please.
This is sweet. The open structure of the tile edging seems easy to work with--you can place the screws at various inside corners and get a very accurate fit. Great tip, thank you 🙏🏻
ingenuous!!! Thanks for posting. I was at my local tool yesterday and stood in front of the expensive track saws there on display. Should I? Should I not? After about 10 minutes I decided, not today - maybe next week. But after watching what you made I will be going back to the store to buy a sheet of plywood and what I need to make your jig.
I’ve never had a problem clamping down a straight edge. I learned that as an apprentice. Great I dea for DYI RS. When doing on site built in cabinets. I usually cut a narrow strip off one of the many sheets of plywood purchased for the build💭a few finish nails will hold in place sufficiently. Get to know your saw ie: distance from edge of plate to of blade and add or subtract that to use as an offset. Measure twice is always nice.
Thank you for the video. You inadvertently solved one of the hardest problems in track saw deigns (DIY and professional), and did not even mention it. If you were to place one of the bottom anti-slip tape segments (sand paper of neoprene) right over the cut line, you would virtually eliminate tear out from the circular saw blade as it would be supported, as in a zero clearance sacrifice piece. even good track saws only support the work on one side (ex Festool), which is fine if the discard piece is observed nd not needed. This design (with the small tweak) protects both the keep and discard side of the cut from tear out. One can still add an additional piece of tape on the board to be cut for double/added tear out protection.
Excellent video. I'm going to make this for my circular saw. The straight edge I currently own, I found out, is almost an 1/8" off, when the two pieces are connected in the middle.
Great idea to use the tile trim as guide. One thing I find inconvenient with this design is that I have to draw a line to line up with the jig. Using the shootboard design, I only need one little mark on each end.
I saw a similar jig where the guy used plexiglass inserts along the cutline. That might make drawing the line unnecessary. But plexiglass scratches really easily.
@@HouseDoctorRay i think i saw that video as well. I believe the plexiglass just make the alignment a bit more accurate, but we still need to draw a line for alignment.
Track saws can be expensive for the average home shop woodworker. I've got a track saw, definitely not green will never own green anything, use it often and it's safe. Your version is the best I've seen. Thanks for sharing your version. I'm sure a lot of them have been built.
You are absolutely right! Green is over rated and way over priced! To be cost effective you would need to be using it every day in a professional / commercial setting. There are too many ideas out there, just like this one from House Doctor Ray, to fill the void for the occasional user and produce the same result.... A STRAIGHT CUT.
If I was earning a living building cabinets or doing installs I'd buy a proper track saw. But for DIY and occasional builds it's not worth it. Thanks for watching.
Green & Grey is overpriced. It's nice to have if you're making good money with wood, but in the end it's just another way of pleasing yourself because it will take a very long time for the working speed difference to make up for the cost difference compared to older and simpler quality tools.
I just completed mine today using 3/4 MDF” and Schluter 1/2” edges. Tip: if you’re gonna be cutting typical 1/4”, 1/2” or 3/4” sheets; make it 62-64” long.
I also thought of using the tile edging, (had some extra after doing the bathroom), but it never occurred to me to use 2, to make an actual track. Great vid.
Hi Ray - I was contemplating buying a tracksaw and guides for an upcoming kitchen cabinet project where I need to cut a lot of melamine coated MDF but as I own a decent Makita circular saw I'm going to build a similar guide to yours and give it a whirl. Thanks for sharing this neat jig.
I have no doubt that a major manufacturer would not like this video 😮 some ppl can think imagine and create easy fun to build tools that work very very well 😮 thank you ! For the ideas,all you diy ppl are great imho ! ❤ helps ppl save money in all the corrupt banking times we are in at this moment in time 😊
I used 1/4 inch plywood and made it 5 inches wider than my saw. I then put the track about 4 inches in from one edge (not cutting side) and screwed it down (glued it too) and then on my first run the saw cuts off the other edge and you have a perfect edge to line up on your mark. The overhang on the other side can be used with simple spring clamps and they don't get in the way. I think I have made two or three of various lengths now and they work great especially if you wax them with car wax. Good video.
If I understand you correctly you made what is commonly called a Door Board Jig. I've sometimes had trouble with the saw veering away from the fence with those. I picked up an aluminum straight edge at Harbor Freight that works ok if you don't forget to include the offset when measuring. You can see it in my Lumber Cart video. ua-cam.com/video/BIk2OX7-y14/v-deo.html
One trick for less saw dust while working, is to make a vacuum box table out of MDF peg board that is usually used while sanding projects. They’re usually a smaller design, but I don’t know why they wouldn’t work on a larger scale, as long as your dust collection system would be up to the challenge! Mark Dougherty Toronto, Ontario.
You might need to add multiple vacuum ports to get even suction over the entire area, but you could make it as big as you want. But as you mentioned, your dust collector would need to be powerful enough. For a 4x8 table, I'd think you'd need at least 1500 CFM, if not more.
@@garrisonawYou could just section off part of the table to be a vacuum box, since you're not necessarily going to be running your saw over the whole table
Nice I made one like that a couple years ago but I used wood where you used that much better idea metal that is much lighter won’t warp over time or swell up. Just overall much better idea. And the non stick tape underneath was a smart addition I didn’t implement before I watched this video. Which after the fact seems so obvious I can’t believe I hadn’t thought of that yet. Very nice work. You got a new subscriber brother.
Simple ideas are always best. 👍 Not sure about the anti slip tape. there are other 'gentler' options but it's a neat tool so thank you for posting. One thing that does bug me is the title. Its weak clickbait.
Thanks. The grip tape is a little harsh but if you're not dragging it across your workpiece it should be fine. You could spray some 3M and stick a milder sandpaper to the bottom...
Love this idea. I never seem to have a straight, flat, and long enough piece of wood to hide my cut so I end up clamping my long level. Of course clamping a level only works when you can keep the blade side of the saw nearest to the guide, otherwise you end up dealing with clamp interference. Your solution seems like a no-brained. Muchas gracias señor!
@@freespeechfinland I appreciate the tip. Occasionally I need to run a bit on a narrow piece which can make clamping the straight edge a bit more complicated. Could probably still rig something up that works with the spacer. Much obliged for the insight.
Make a spacer block whose width equals the distance between the side of the saw shoe and the blade (teeth). Store it with your saw. For a perfectly straight cut, place the spacer block and the guide (a level or some other rigid piece with a straight edge) on your work piece. Holding the spacer block firmly against the side of the guide, position the opposite edge of the spacer block at your cut mark. Clamp the guide against your work piece. Do these same at the other end. Check with your spacer block that both ends are correct and adjust if needed. Clamp tight. Cut your piece keeping the saw shoe firmly against the guide. If the blade veers off, just cut again.
@@philiphoule7170 ^ sorry, i reposted that edit after you already commented on a previous version. But it basically had the same content. Looks just confusing now. 😀
@@philiphoule7170👍 Good point. Working with narrow pieces, this can get challenging. If a couple small holes in the work piece are acceptable, you could use a brad nailer (if one is at hand) to temporarily fasten material at the cutting setup to improve cutting stability and safety. Shoot them well in (to avoid scraping the saw shoe) and, after the cut, pull out from the other side.
Great video..,.while looking at it I had an idea to substitute round wooden curtain poles for the lengths of Aluminium...the poles are pushed against the saw base plate on on the cut the saw is locked down...of course I had to leave one end open to get the guide to work but so far so good ...many thanks to you....u are one clever man...stay safe....
I made a similar guide. I used a high lubricity and wear resistant Teflon tape attached to the guides. This assures there is no appreciable wear of the aluminum guide strips following frequent use.
Great video. I've been looking around for a long time on DIY track saw guides and this is the best one yet. Very generous in providing a detailed build without having to purchase plans. I've already purchased the tile edging and lath screws and am ready to go. Will probably make it wider to allow the use of clamps. Thank you very much!!!
Love the approach. The festool click bait was unnecessary. I might try this but I will likely still use a clamp just for peace of mind. Pretty sure I can rig something that’s clamps from below with no more profile on top than the edging. Good stuff!
I'm with you dave, the clickbait title was annoying. Watched about 30 seconds and left the video because it was false advertising. Festool could give a crap about what this guy is doing
I agree as to the clickbait Festool comment. Festool isn't perfect but feature for feature is far ahead of this video. There are several other companies that make tracks equal to Festool but cheaper so even cost is not huge
I had a similar idea to use metal edging with this design, but I used the upright rails that shelf brackets go into. Those were cheap, long, sturdy, and easy to find without flaws (i.e., no bends, rust, etc. like you find with metal stock). The only problem I ran into was that they were a little too high on the board, so the saw's motor bumped into them. I had to route a channel in the base in order to recess the rails, but otherwise I'm happy with it.
That's probably better than a Festool. The one thing I would have done differently is to not worry about drilling holes to see the line. I would have just cut a slot in the opposite direction to create a slot. This would make the jig double-sided and give you the ability to line up the edge of your track with the line you want to cut, no matter how long the cut. This is one of the best features of a track saw. The edging you used was genius. Great video!
Could you please elaborate on this? I don't understand how a 2nd slot making the saw reversible (not double-sided) allows you to line up an edge. Thanks.
@@cakeman58 Yes. I probably should have added that you need to cut out a rectangle with the two slots being the long sides of the rectangle by cutting to connect the ends of each slot. The long rectangle would fall away giving you the ability to line up your jig with the line to cut. Does that make sense? The genius behind this jig is that there's no slop that needs to be adjusted and the saw will stay on track.
@jimberg98 so you would cut out a rectangle from the center of this jig, so that the saw sits on two wooden rails between the metal guides? And the edges of the wooden rails are the saw cut lines. I think that is clear now. Thank you so much for your reply.
Ray, I like the idea of using skateboard tape or similar footing to keep the device from sliding as it is being used. I think that trick can be used on the older idea of having a cutting jog made out of hardboard and I using a piece of 3/8- or 1/4-inch straight edge -- and the grip-tape minimizes need for clamps.
I am building a mini home with nickel lap siding made out of plywood, you idea will wok great! I will epoxy a piece if aluminum to ride in the groove from the prior cut so my spacing will be uniform. I wouldn’t have thought about the metal you used for your tracks. Genius idea and execution!
Great job, thank you for allowing me to think outside of the box and not have to go purchase everything! And realize I have the skill set to make my own products! Thanks again
I tried many different DIY tracks in the past they all work fine but when I got a Makita cordless track saw I just regret why I didn’t got it years before, better precision, quality of the cuts, dust control and if you also get a GRS16 guide rail square you can do perfect square cuts for cabinets or furniture.
I cannot believe the sheer brilliance of using Tile rails for twin guides. I'm doing door panels and have a 12' schluter sitting in my garage, while I'm wondering how the eFF I'm going to get a minimum 8' straight-edge... awesome!
@@HouseDoctorRay festool could care less about your little video and diy tracksaw. If you actually care about your viewers and subs and have some honesty, Stop misleading and lying to people.
@@daveortwine2641 lmfao, it's just a clickbait title, yes it may have a lie in there, however every youtuber does this with success in drawing in more viewers. Give the guy a break. Where are your videos? If you can do better prove it.
I love your idea and this actually gives a lot more freedom and flexibility cutting things for what I want to do. I only wish if I discover your channel sooner. Good job!
I finally bought a track saw ua-cam.com/video/Y-To7yXHXpc/v-deo.htmlsi=tC_QRpy3QjKBc5n0
I made the other type of DIY track, instead of a channel where the saw glides, like this one, the guide just have a straight edge on the same side of the motor of the saw and the other side the saw disc cuts flush with the edge of the board, eliminating the need to plunge the saw to make the initial cut and drilling those big holes to see and align the track to the line you will be cutting. Another advantage is that you can easily make the track longer.
In my case I tried to use sandpaper to make the track stay on the surface, eventually it failed. My solution was to add a strip of wood to the track with some pocket holes and made it wider. Now I can easily put some clamps and the saw doesnt hit them.
For the ones criticizing and saying it doesnt do the same as a track saw, well, first you deserve some prize for being captain obvious... you nailed it. Of course isn't the same as real track saw but I can tell you it does almost the same work, cuts straight like a track saw and works just as easy as a track saw. If you're worried that the cut "won't look as good" as a cut made by a real tracksaw then there's a good solution for this. Get a disc for your circular saw with a high teeth count, that will give you a cleaner cut. After I made my jig I stopped thinking about getting a track saw, no need for a tool I will use occasionally, all are overpriced and doesnt have the many uses a circular saw has.
I had a jig like you described (door board jig) and I would occasionally drift away from the fence.
The tape I used is designed for traction in slippery areas so it should hold up really well.
Thanks for taking the time to comment and for watching.
@@HouseDoctorRay if you pay attention to the saw it won't wander
@@chichidouglas5078: yes, but you made the jig because you wandered off your own line, eh?
And you’re board tipped at the end of your cut and that was a failure of 1) care, 2)was very dangerous, and as education negligent!
😢
I'm a Festool-representative and the Company has no intention in getting this video banned!
A little bit as a click bait due to the title of the video. This will be more of a video for making your own diy Kreg track. Awesome job by the way.
@@the3in1workshop 100% click bait. 8:24 And I wonder why he didn't cut all the way through the piece...
@@HouseDoctorRay you are lying about a company wanting to take it down, that means clickbait and a defamation lawsuit waiting to happen.
Not sure how that is the best way to get your foot on the door.
@@kg6198 Jeez, people need to lighten up.... whats with all the haters, truly youtube comments sections & social media in general have become a cancer on society... 🙄😒
@@peterfitzpatrick7032 i pointed out the problem of having a misleading and defamatory title. I don't understand why you had to go on a rant about me pointing out what could be the issue with his title. Am I wrong??
Thanks for the idea. I built one today and it works great. I was a little hesitant to trust the grip tape, but I made a few long cuts with no issues with the guide slipping. I made a few modifications: 1) I made mine 7ft long because I have a project needing 6ft cuts 2) I added a dab of construction glue every few inches to the "mesh" area of the tile edge, just to make sure it doesn't move in the future 3) I used small 3/8in plywood blocks at the ends rather than the metal - I wanted a hole on one end from which to hang the guide when I am not using it.
Nice. I still have mine leaning against the wall. I need to drill a hole in it.
Thanks
@@HouseDoctorRay I guess you could use one of the 1" holes to hang it from? Nice vid by the way. I subscribed about halfway through it. Thanks!
Thanks for the sub! I think if you hung it from one of the holes it might spread the slot out.
I still wouldn't trust grip tape. There is no replacement for proper clamping. Safety and precision are what is important.
You don't need to resort to bogus claims like "Festool wants to ban this" type titles for your videos - Festool couldn't care less if someone makes their own jig - You can just say "great idea for a DIY tracksaw" and people will still click on it because it legitimately is a great idea for a DIY tracksaw. Thanks for sharing the idea
Unfortunately the way YT and viewers work if you don't have ridiculous titles and thumbnails you have little chance of being seen. This video was out for almost 3 months with very few views. I changed the title and picture and viola!
Yes he does have to resort to these types of titles because 90% of people respond to them. I mean please tell me you make this comment on all the other videos you watch?
Good video dude, it was interesting
Thanks for backing me up Nicholas.
And now your channel is getting forever blocked from my feed for clickbait titles. You win some you lose some I guess.
😢
This has got to be THE best cirular saw jig ive ever seen, thanks bud
I made this today - very easy and it works great. Thank you for your time and trouble.
I shouldn't lose any sleep over the self-righteous A-holes hating on you - they need to get over themselves. All the best.
Thanks Jerry. Glad it worked for you.
I don't mind the negative comments. They still are clicking on the video and interacting. Helps me out.
I know, right?
This is perfect for cutting plywood sheets to patch water damage on the roof where the table saw is impractical.
I've seen a few of these. One issue is that you have to drop into them all of the time. With a small modification it can be shorter, cut farther, be more stable, and allow you to cut from the end. What you do is, at the end instead of more of the aluminum, put a thick piece of wood on the underside, perhaps 2x2. That will act as a catch at the end of your piece to allow it to be even more stable and not slip. Then, as long as you don't cut down into it too far, you can start your cuts right at the end in a conventional manner.
That is a great idea. Thanks for posting.
Maybe silly question, is your suggestion so that it would act similar to a bench hook?
@@martinmeasures829 A bench hook method would work so long as you make sure it's 100% accurately straight. I've done this, because even though I really really want Santa to bring me a Festool for Christmas, I can't see it happening and can't afford to pull the trigger on that yet.
@@martinmeasures829 I think it would be better to not depend on the end pieces being perfectly square to use them as bench hooks. Instead I would not have them contact the sides of the workbench and then line the slot up with the line to be cut.
that is a decent idea as well, the problem with it though is if the cut is longer then the track then it wont work because when you slide the track up it will be resting on the 2x2, if the cut is more or less then 90 degrees it makes that lip a hindrance as apposed to a convenience,
Excellent DIY Track saw that you can use your own saw you already own rather than buying an expensive specialty saw with track!
I have tried many types of variations on this theme, including just using a couple pieces of plywood and making a 0 clearance track. Works pretty good, but once you buy a track saw (in my case a Makita) there is no going back, especially when you add an attachment like a TSO edge guide. It just makes your life so much easier and frustration free. True not everyone can afford one, or even wants one, but for my type of workworking, that saw, track and square has saved me a ton of time. Don't get me wrong, I am no tool snob, and spent years using just okay tools, that's why it is such a joy to get better at your craft, so you can sell your work and invest in nice tools...and who of us doesn't love nice tools?
Enjoyed your video! Excellent idea with the tile edge. I built exactly the same way, although i went one step further and made my plywood 12" wide..this allowed me to actually place 4" tile and grout up to edge. With the added weight it has i avoided having to use the underside tape. And...my wife loves it too...she picked the tile!
Excellent upgrade! It probably cuts down on the vibration from the saw.
I had no idea where this was going but by the end, I'm convinced of it's geniusness. I super appreciate the "bootstrapping" here without much additional other things, e.g., table saw. This is a total win, and I'll be building this myself. Again, GENIUS.
Thanks so much for the kind words.
You appreciate some guy lying to you? Wow that's weird.
@@daveortwine2641 what’s wrong with you? Are you jealous? Or maybe you are one of those rich kids with every single piece of gear of the most expensive brand? Get a life, the idea is great and we are saving tons of cash. Bye.
Thanks for that Julian.
You sound a bit 'jealous' mate. Just take it on the chin, the fact that you never came up with this idea.
Never mind, you can work on a revolutionary 21st century bog brush, and put your name to it.
This reminds me of reading old Popular Mechanics magazines.
I used to watch my grandfather use his "track saw", which was any circular saw with a bottom plate and a nice piece of 1x1.
Yup, that's what mine consists of.
I’m a finish carpenter. This exact build wouldn’t work for me when dealing with a finished product but it has given me some good ideas for building something similar. Thank you!
Use rubber mats instead
@@nikolairubinskii6450 Rubber leaves marks too. If he can find grey rubber sheeting or maybe Neoprene©.
@@christophercharles9645 actual track saws use rubber on their tracks, black rubber. I suppose one can always come up with a setting in which otherwise perfectly fine tool/DIY solution wouldn't work. When you work with some delicate finished surface that you must cut but leave no marks whatsoever on it, perhaps circular saw (in any form) isn't even the right tool?
Glue a strip of gym resistance bands along each long edge.
If your a finish carpenter and you don't actually have a proper track saw then you have been missing out for years. This is a great DIY hack, but that's it, it has no place in a professionals tool box (or anyone who doesn't want to compromise).
I came across this video and it was exactly what i was looking for. I got the tracks at my local Lowes and ordered the tape. After i installed the tracks and the tape i put some Johnson paste wax on the plywood to help the saw slide. Thanks for posting this.
Glad you found it useful.
Dude
You have helped me out emminslly. I've been a Carpenter for year's. What we use to do was clamp thick enough wood on the opposite side of saw so it don't slide around or vibrate to much. Sometimes that works good. But your method is easier. My eyes ain't what they use to be at age 50. So I need precision cuts that's easier to use than a miter saw. Thank you
Glad you found it helpful.
I made one pretty much the same a few years ago, what I did differently regarding the saw was, I dedicated an old yard sale saw to the track, removed the spring loaded guard, installed a spring in the height adjustment slide and now have an old saw that acts like an actual track saw, also depending on the make and age of the saw, you can utilize the fan air and direct that air down a small Polley tube to blow the dust away from in front of your saw, it looks janky, but it works.
Sounds cool. Ya gotta do what works.
Janky........ The story of my life. "0_o"
Ohhhhh cool idea! And I just happen to have several old yard sale saws collecting dust!
O
Look at my "Parallel Guided Power Saw"
I have a tracksaw, but I'm making this as well for my circ saw. But I'll bump out the tile edging so I can place it against the benchdogs (perfectly squared using UJK parf guide). This way, I don't have to fight the long tracks anymore. Very practical and simple - the best DIY solution for tracksaw I've seen to date. Thanks. I would caution anyone though, @8:17 support your pieces so it doesn't collapse and pinch the blade.
Thanks. I definitely had my blocks in the wrong place.
8:24 if you don't cut all the through your piece like he didn't, you won't have to worry about pinching the blade...
Ditto I have a Kreg Accu Cut and most likely making one of these instead. Accu Cut is ok at best, PITA to reset saw after first use in the same location and even with saw flush against top surface doesn’t make perfectly square cuts?
@@msk3905 yeah, it only works if you can dedicate a saw and leave it locked it after fitting it
Look at my "Parallel Guided Power Saw"
Thank you so much for this video. I just built it today following your instructions and it worked perfectly! Such a time saver for my current project!
Glad you found it useful.
I was totally impressed with that first cut you made wow.
After building 3 different similar saw guides I appreciate your innovation using the tile edging. Ultimately I bought a Kreg track saw and guides for the dust collection capabilities. My shop is only 400 sq ft so keeping the sawdust under control is important. It’s a good video; no need for the clickbait title.
Look at my "Parallel Guided Power Saw"
Thought i was being slick with a piece is finished 1/4 pine and couple of clamps
I tried this last night, excellent tutorial. Appreciate it. South Africa
Thank you.
I love this idea! I’ve been a carpenter for over 40 yrs. I can pop a chalk line or use a pencil line and freehand the cut and it is difficult to tell which edge is factory!You must like the saw you use and use the proper speed consistently!
Thanks Richard.
what?!!!!! no way!!! really?
It Looks ! Like ! Your ! Freehand ! Was ! Just ! So !! Bad ! A ! CUT !!
I'm with you! If you've been at it long enough like me and have a saw and a blade that your good with go for it. I just make sure my cord is not going to get caught and I can make the complete run without stopping. But building cabinets I cut about an 8th inch bigger and then clean the smaller pieces up on the table saw. Just saying.
@@duelette the cord think gets me all the time 🤣
I’ve had one of these jigs for 30 years. Best thing I ever built. I wish I could remember who showed it to me. I’m sure it was from shop notes or something similar. No such thing as UA-cam. Mine was simpler but works basically the same.
WHO CARES !
@@ken4059 you it seems!😁😁😁
What a great tool, thanks for the details, ill be making this . I also just connect my Henry Vav as my dust extraction for power tools, you just have to position the hose to avoid clashing. Also use the Henry Fabric bags, not cheap on line paper bags as the dust seems to pass through paper.
I have used string for getting a straight line when tiling, but never thought of using it for wood. Thanks for that idea.
String, plumb bob, water level are cheaper and just as accurate as their modern counterparts.
Man, that's kind of genius. That's a nice simple, elegant way to make a dead straight cut! And it's cheap enough that you (i.e. me) could make them in a variety of lengths, and even with different saws for different purposes.
Thanks!
Thanks for watching.
It truly is genius. Hey Doc, have you thought of any improvements/adjustments since you posted?
Not yet. A few of the better suggestions here are non slip silicone tape or Flex Seal. Another is routing a groove on the bottom for clamps. Maybe the MicroJig Match Fit clamps.
Thanks very much, going to adapt for a Jigsaw, for my very basic beginner workshop build...
The tile edging is a good idea. You could fancy it up any way you want but the basic concept is solid to build on - or use as made. Good work!
Yo! That's awesome... 1st DIY tracksaw I've seen that is not overly complicated or too hard to build! That's great! Thank you!
Glad you like it!
I've since then built a track for my circular saw, and am satisfied. Instead I repurposed old entry way trim ( that's inside the door way). I appreciate your help
Honestly I've been contemplating a track saw my whole house build so far but couldn't justify it. This tho sir is stellar and will be seeing use in Paradise. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks a lot.
I built a couple of saw tracks similar to this a few years ago. I used them constantly while rebuilding a house in Arizona. There are many different methods, but this one looks really nice because it keeps the saw straight without having to force it up against the jig. I lost (or maybe just left) my tracks when I moved to Oregon, so now I have to build new ones (one for the full 8' length of a sheet of ply, and another shorter one for the width). I might even build a shorter one for smaller pieces of ply. These things are so cheap that you can build several of them for different uses and locations. I'm a real estate investor, so when I have properties that I'm working on, I can leave a set in the house I'm remodeling. I'd MUCH rather someone break into my shed or an empty house and steal a $8 home-made track than a $800 Festool!
totally Agree that's awesome that you've built something like this! I'd also much prefer getting a $8 item stolen than my nice tools, which is sadly part of the business now a days as real estate investors
Lifetime carpenter with Festool tracksaw, good guide design and video protection, 👍🏻
Thanks Greg.
Great idea and wonderful step by step teaching on how to do the build. You’ve made it simple enough for this farm kid to do it with no problem. Thank you!
Lovely. I added this video to my dozens of 'To do wood stuff' videos which i have not done .. lol
Good on you for being so resourceful and creative.
Thank you Derek.
Excellent. It is a simple design with great instructions and is much cheaper than buying a proprietary system.
Thanks.
Look at my "Parallel Guided Power Saw"
Glad i bought festool, all the issues are solved and the dust collection is flawless. Worth every penny
I made something like this years ago. I'm glad I upgraded to the Festool. Yes, worth.every.penny.
good for you money bags
Think about what you could of bought with the money you wasted.
Very simple and practical.... Thank you
Thank you and thanks for watching.
For years I have just been clamping a piece of MDF to the work and running my saw along it. I think it's cool that Festool has all these neat gadgets but let's face it, they did not invent running a tool along a straightedge. Works great with routers too if you want to get a finished edge.
You are full of a lot of great ideas!!! Thank you! Never bought one of those because they seem so expensive. I'm either clamping down my level or looking for a straight piece of wood when I need to cut something with my worm drive. Thanks for aonther great idea!
Thanks. Glad you liked it.
Yep! Good idea. Good video. "Straight" to the point. No extra nonsense.
Love this video & the jig. I like it that I don't need expensive table saws etc. to make it. Not all of us can afford those expensive tools. This is perfect for simple DIYers like me. Thanks very much. More simple videos please.
Thank you Anthony.
Thanks man that's just saved me a fortune 🙏
Never thought I'd watch a video made by a guy who has a total of 6 tools
One of the simplest and effective solutions out there. Great job
Thank you very much.
This is sweet. The open structure of the tile edging seems easy to work with--you can place the screws at various inside corners and get a very accurate fit. Great tip, thank you 🙏🏻
Thanks, glad you like it.
ingenuous!!! Thanks for posting.
I was at my local tool yesterday and stood in front of the expensive track saws there on display. Should I? Should I not? After about 10 minutes I decided, not today - maybe next week. But after watching what you made I will be going back to the store to buy a sheet of plywood and what I need to make your jig.
I did it all for you Bob.
The best part is the find of the aluminum tile rails; I will be building this.
Great idea for dust removal. Buy a festool.
I’ve never had a problem clamping down a straight edge. I learned that as an apprentice. Great I dea for DYI RS. When doing on site built in cabinets. I usually cut a narrow strip off one of the many sheets of plywood purchased for the build💭a few finish nails will hold in place sufficiently. Get to know your saw ie: distance from edge of plate to of blade and add or subtract that to use as an offset. Measure twice is always nice.
Thank you for the video. You inadvertently solved one of the hardest problems in track saw deigns (DIY and professional), and did not even mention it. If you were to place one of the bottom anti-slip tape segments (sand paper of neoprene) right over the cut line, you would virtually eliminate tear out from the circular saw blade as it would be supported, as in a zero clearance sacrifice piece. even good track saws only support the work on one side (ex Festool), which is fine if the discard piece is observed nd not needed. This design (with the small tweak) protects both the keep and discard side of the cut from tear out. One can still add an additional piece of tape on the board to be cut for double/added tear out protection.
You're correct. However a good blade, like Diablo, goes a long way in reducing chipout. Also not rushing through the cut.
whoaaa that remark is a gem!
Look at my "Parallel Guided Power Saw"
Thanks for that!!!
Excellent video. I'm going to make this for my circular saw. The straight edge I currently own, I found out, is almost an 1/8" off, when the two pieces are connected in the middle.
Great idea to use the tile trim as guide. One thing I find inconvenient with this design is that I have to draw a line to line up with the jig. Using the shootboard design, I only need one little mark on each end.
I saw a similar jig where the guy used plexiglass inserts along the cutline. That might make drawing the line unnecessary. But plexiglass scratches really easily.
@@HouseDoctorRay i think i saw that video as well. I believe the plexiglass just make the alignment a bit more accurate, but we still need to draw a line for alignment.
You can add some wax to the wood, the aluminum sides and the bottom of the saw shoe to make it glide easier in the track. Thanks for the idea!
Thanks James but I think you didn't watch to the very end...
@@HouseDoctorRay lol. I stopped watching when you said thanks for watching. My bad. At least I know I was on the right track anyways. Thanks again
Beautiful job now we all can afford a track saw ver clever idea I’ll be watching for more intelligent ideas
Thanks Steven.
I work with small pieces of wood most of the time and rarely need to make a long cut but your jig is the best home made jig I have seen.
Thanks Matt.
Track saws can be expensive for the average home shop woodworker. I've got a track saw, definitely not green will never own green anything, use it often and it's safe. Your version is the best I've seen. Thanks for sharing your version. I'm sure a lot of them have been built.
Thanks.
Green is number 1
You are absolutely right! Green is over rated and way over priced! To be cost effective you would need to be using it every day in a professional / commercial setting. There are too many ideas out there, just like this one from House Doctor Ray, to fill the void for the occasional user and produce the same result.... A STRAIGHT CUT.
If I was earning a living building cabinets or doing installs I'd buy a proper track saw. But for DIY and occasional builds it's not worth it. Thanks for watching.
Green & Grey is overpriced. It's nice to have if you're making good money with wood, but in the end it's just another way of pleasing yourself because it will take a very long time for the working speed difference to make up for the cost difference compared to older and simpler quality tools.
I loved the video. I want to learn about carpentry and joinery, it's interesting. Thanks doc.😀
Thank you and thanks for watching.
I just completed mine today using 3/4 MDF” and Schluter 1/2” edges. Tip: if you’re gonna be cutting typical 1/4”, 1/2” or 3/4” sheets; make it 62-64” long.
Good tip. Thanks for posting.
I also thought of using the tile edging, (had some extra after doing the bathroom), but it never occurred to me to use 2, to make an actual track. Great vid.
Thanks.
What a brilliant idea, really great, I'll do it straight away.
Thanks. You won't be disappointed.
That is the best DIY track saw I have seen on you tube so far
Thanks Alan. Share it with your friends.
That’s why they wanna ban it.
Hi Ray - I was contemplating buying a tracksaw and guides for an upcoming kitchen cabinet project where I need to cut a lot of melamine coated MDF but as I own a decent Makita circular saw I'm going to build a similar guide to yours and give it a whirl. Thanks for sharing this neat jig.
Practice cutting that stuff, it chips really easily. Maybe try scoring it with a utility knife first.
Good luck!
Track saws have a chip edge that preserves the integrity of plywood. This won't do that. Get your wood filler and sander ready.
better yet get the Festool TSV 60 KEB-F-Plus. It has a scoring blade out front.@@InHisImage1161
Needed this 40 years ago when finishing my carpentry apprenticeship. 😅
I have no doubt that a major manufacturer would not like this video 😮 some ppl can think imagine and create easy fun to build tools that work very very well 😮 thank you ! For the ideas,all you diy ppl are great imho ! ❤ helps ppl save money in all the corrupt banking times we are in at this moment in time 😊
I used 1/4 inch plywood and made it 5 inches wider than my saw. I then put the track about 4 inches in from one edge (not cutting side) and screwed it down (glued it too) and then on my first run the saw cuts off the other edge and you have a perfect edge to line up on your mark. The overhang on the other side can be used with simple spring clamps and they don't get in the way. I think I have made two or three of various lengths now and they work great especially if you wax them with car wax. Good video.
If I understand you correctly you made what is commonly called a Door Board Jig.
I've sometimes had trouble with the saw veering away from the fence with those. I picked up an aluminum straight edge at Harbor Freight that works ok if you don't forget to include the offset when measuring.
You can see it in my Lumber Cart video.
ua-cam.com/video/BIk2OX7-y14/v-deo.html
Just what I needed for my home shop. Thank you.
One trick for less saw dust while working, is to make a vacuum box table out of MDF peg board that is usually used while sanding projects. They’re usually a smaller design, but I don’t know why they wouldn’t work on a larger scale, as long as your dust collection system would be up to the challenge!
Mark Dougherty
Toronto, Ontario.
You might need to add multiple vacuum ports to get even suction over the entire area, but you could make it as big as you want. But as you mentioned, your dust collector would need to be powerful enough. For a 4x8 table, I'd think you'd need at least 1500 CFM, if not more.
@@garrisonawYou could just section off part of the table to be a vacuum box, since you're not necessarily going to be running your saw over the whole table
Pro tip....I used a Festool track saw to make my jig....
Good idea Jeff.
Nice I made one like that a couple years ago but I used wood where you used that much better idea metal that is much lighter won’t warp over time or swell up. Just overall much better idea. And the non stick tape underneath was a smart addition I didn’t implement before I watched this video. Which after the fact seems so obvious I can’t believe I hadn’t thought of that yet. Very nice work. You got a new subscriber brother.
Thank you so much!
Simple ideas are always best. 👍 Not sure about the anti slip tape. there are other 'gentler' options but it's a neat tool so thank you for posting. One thing that does bug me is the title. Its weak clickbait.
Thanks. The grip tape is a little harsh but if you're not dragging it across your workpiece it should be fine. You could spray some 3M and stick a milder sandpaper to the bottom...
It was worth the click bait. It’s only bad if the video isn’t awesome like this one.
Thanks.
@@BOSS_DOG Joseph was a carpenter, so not a bad choice.
Love this idea. I never seem to have a straight, flat, and long enough piece of wood to hide my cut so I end up clamping my long level. Of course clamping a level only works when you can keep the blade side of the saw nearest to the guide, otherwise you end up dealing with clamp interference. Your solution seems like a no-brained. Muchas gracias señor!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
@@freespeechfinland I appreciate the tip. Occasionally I need to run a bit on a narrow piece which can make clamping the straight edge a bit more complicated. Could probably still rig something up that works with the spacer. Much obliged for the insight.
Make a spacer block whose width equals the distance between the side of the saw shoe and the blade (teeth). Store it with your saw.
For a perfectly straight cut, place the spacer block and the guide (a level or some other rigid piece with a straight edge) on your work piece. Holding the spacer block firmly against the side of the guide, position the opposite edge of the spacer block at your cut mark. Clamp the guide against your work piece. Do these same at the other end. Check with your spacer block that both ends are correct and adjust if needed. Clamp tight. Cut your piece keeping the saw shoe firmly against the guide. If the blade veers off, just cut again.
@@philiphoule7170 ^ sorry, i reposted that edit after you already commented on a previous version. But it basically had the same content. Looks just confusing now. 😀
@@philiphoule7170👍 Good point. Working with narrow pieces, this can get challenging.
If a couple small holes in the work piece are acceptable, you could use a brad nailer (if one is at hand) to temporarily fasten material at the cutting setup to improve cutting stability and safety. Shoot them well in (to avoid scraping the saw shoe) and, after the cut, pull out from the other side.
Great video..,.while looking at it I had an idea to substitute round wooden curtain poles for the lengths of Aluminium...the poles are pushed against the saw base plate on on the cut the saw is locked down...of course I had to leave one end open to get the guide to work but so far so good ...many thanks to you....u are one clever man...stay safe....
Should say..and on the cut the saw is locked down..
Scratch the poles! Bad idea,! Back to the Aluminium! Great idea!
Could I ask what you are rubbing into the wood at the end of the video pls? Thank you...
Car wax. Helps the saw slide better.
Great stuff! Will be making one very soon. My last attempt at one was no where near as good as this and I see where I went wrong. Thanks so much.
Glad you found it useful.
I made a similar guide. I used a high lubricity and wear resistant Teflon tape attached to the guides. This assures there is no appreciable wear of the aluminum guide strips following frequent use.
Great idea!
Look at my "Parallel Guided Power Saw"
First i was impress your nice idea cutting wood its not easy we end up buying table saw instead do same what you did keep it up your idea love it.
Thank you
Great video. I've been looking around for a long time on DIY track saw guides and this is the best one yet. Very generous in providing a detailed build without having to purchase plans. I've already purchased the tile edging and lath screws and am ready to go. Will probably make it wider to allow the use of clamps. Thank you very much!!!
Thanks and thanks for watching.
Love the approach. The festool click bait was unnecessary. I might try this but I will likely still use a clamp just for peace of mind. Pretty sure I can rig something that’s clamps from below with no more profile on top than the edging.
Good stuff!
Thanks. Check out the Match Fit dovetail clamps.
I'm with you dave, the clickbait title was annoying. Watched about 30 seconds and left the video because it was false advertising. Festool could give a crap about what this guy is doing
@@johnblack9038 agreed
I agree as to the clickbait Festool comment. Festool isn't perfect but feature for feature is far ahead of this video. There are several other companies that make tracks equal to Festool but cheaper so even cost is not huge
I have a straight edge I bought from Sears 25 yrs ago. It came with 2 small C-clamps Never in the way.
Good job! Very good for budget minded DIYers!
Thanks Darren.
Love this jig! I just started my own shop for custom furniture and this is such an indispensable tool to have on hand. Thank you!
Thanks and good luck with your new venture.
Great tool. I liked the video editing a very clever way to put the screws in and explain at the same time.
Thanks
Really Good Idea... Thank you, God Speed
This is genius. Was deciding between a circular saw (mine is crap) and a track saw for furniture or things I don't want to mess up. Thanks!
Thanks. I didn't like the designs that required bolting stuff to my saw.
Definitely go with a tracksaw then. You can always use your tracksaw as a circular saw.
You'll thank me later for not giving you bad advice.
Simple yet GENIUS. On my way to find some of that aluminum straight edge. Thank You for sharing.
There is a link in the description for what I used. It is a little lower profile than standard tile edging. I guess that is why it was less expensive.
I love it. Very useful video to cut a straight line without costing a lot of money.
Thanks Vernon.
I had a similar idea to use metal edging with this design, but I used the upright rails that shelf brackets go into. Those were cheap, long, sturdy, and easy to find without flaws (i.e., no bends, rust, etc. like you find with metal stock). The only problem I ran into was that they were a little too high on the board, so the saw's motor bumped into them. I had to route a channel in the base in order to recess the rails, but otherwise I'm happy with it.
These Aluminum rails wont rust
That's probably better than a Festool. The one thing I would have done differently is to not worry about drilling holes to see the line. I would have just cut a slot in the opposite direction to create a slot. This would make the jig double-sided and give you the ability to line up the edge of your track with the line you want to cut, no matter how long the cut. This is one of the best features of a track saw. The edging you used was genius. Great video!
Could you please elaborate on this? I don't understand how a 2nd slot making the saw reversible (not double-sided) allows you to line up an edge. Thanks.
@@cakeman58 Yes. I probably should have added that you need to cut out a rectangle with the two slots being the long sides of the rectangle by cutting to connect the ends of each slot. The long rectangle would fall away giving you the ability to line up your jig with the line to cut. Does that make sense?
The genius behind this jig is that there's no slop that needs to be adjusted and the saw will stay on track.
@jimberg98 so you would cut out a rectangle from the center of this jig, so that the saw sits on two wooden rails between the metal guides? And the edges of the wooden rails are the saw cut lines. I think that is clear now. Thank you so much for your reply.
@@cakeman58Yes. Exactly.
I made one of these today. It works great.
Ray, I like the idea of using skateboard tape or similar footing to keep the device from sliding as it is being used. I think that trick can be used on the older idea of having a cutting jog made out of hardboard and I using a piece of 3/8- or 1/4-inch straight edge -- and the grip-tape minimizes need for clamps.
Nice idea for breaking down sheet stock but the added thickness of your jig robs the blade of cutting depth for thicker material
I am building a mini home with nickel lap siding made out of plywood, you idea will wok great!
I will epoxy a piece if aluminum to ride in the groove from the prior cut so my spacing will be uniform. I wouldn’t have thought about the metal you used for your tracks. Genius idea and execution!
Thank you.
Great job, thank you for allowing me to think outside of the box and not have to go purchase everything! And realize I have the skill set to make my own products! Thanks again
Thank you and thanks for watching.
I tried many different DIY tracks in the past they all work fine but when I got a Makita cordless track saw I just regret why I didn’t got it years before, better precision, quality of the cuts, dust control and if you also get a GRS16 guide rail square you can do perfect square cuts for cabinets or furniture.
It's on my wish list.
Look at my "Parallel Guided Power Saw"
I cannot believe the sheer brilliance of using Tile rails for twin guides. I'm doing door panels and have a 12' schluter sitting in my garage, while I'm wondering how the eFF I'm going to get a minimum 8' straight-edge... awesome!
Thanks Kevin.
This is genius especially when one just starting woodwork and cant afford to buy a track saw thank you very much for sharing your idea .
Thank you for watching.
@@HouseDoctorRay festool could care less about your little video and diy tracksaw. If you actually care about your viewers and subs and have some honesty, Stop misleading and lying to people.
@@daveortwine2641 lmfao, it's just a clickbait title, yes it may have a lie in there, however every youtuber does this with success in drawing in more viewers. Give the guy a break. Where are your videos? If you can do better prove it.
Beautiful and simple build yet effective. Good job!
Thank you.
Out freaking standing. Thank you.
Thank you and thanks for watching
Awesome thanks a million🙂
I love your idea and this actually gives a lot more freedom and flexibility cutting things for what I want to do. I only wish if I discover your channel sooner. Good job!
Thanks Eric
Thank you for sharing. Everyone stay, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia