Ask Lattice: EP.10 Pull Up Training For Climbing
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- Опубліковано 4 січ 2020
- The humble pull up has been a staple of climbing training for decades, yet there is still plenty of confusion around whether it's useful and what types of pull up variation are good for climbing.
The short answer is that this is a great basic tool for climbing training and the long answer is that the variation of pull up you use, all depends on what you're trying to improve on, what part of your training season you're in and how strong you are already!
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Haha, you got me with the sketch in the beginning. I was like "damn I didn't know he was that strong" :D
Really??! We thought it was so cheesy it was way too obvious :-D
form was too good... should have had a cuppa or beer in the other hand 😂
@@LatticeTraining i noticed your hand was turned the wrong way but i thought you were just THAT much stronger xD
@@LatticeTraining wouldn't have guessed, except that you've done it before 🤣
Everybody talking about the beginning, im impressed that the tea mugs go with the jackets :D
Amazing video you guys! Thanks for the high quality information :) keep up the good work!
Hey Lattice, you did it again, awesome content for both beginner and intermediate/elite climbers!! Thank you!
This is great information you boys are portraying. Everything you mention is what my physio/climbing coach wants me to do! I really do hope climbers of all types use this information correctly to further their training.
Again, thank you for taking the time :)
This is absolute gold material, thanks again guys :)
24 years climbing and I did one arm pull-ups ( not anymore... XD). Pretty weak at pull ups right now, now I see myself revisiting the basics since I got injured my epicondyls, and basically the flexors of my forearms. Thanks guys, super good knowledge, I am definitely subscribed
To add to the lock of stuff mentioned, to train specificity I tend to do a circuit of boulders of all holds types but make my movement as slow as I can and even hold positions above the next hold before grasping it, this doesn't only train your lock off but full body tension
Insanely valuable! Thanks guys👍🙏🍻
Realy realy helpfull thx guys!!
I'm always confused about how I'm supposed to do these training exercises, every other training exercise, and still rest multiple days after each one.
Hey! Thanks for the very nice and informative videos! How many times a week would you recommend to do these pull up exercises? I know you have talked about some core exercises previously but would be really cool to see a similar type of video about core as well, with some good exercises and maybe a longer plan and how to make it more harder gradually :)
I was like "one... ok two ... three... damn ! ...four ?!"
Thank you so much for this will try a plan based on this video during the next 12 weeks.
Gym training plan after climbing:
- Mon: 3x5 normal grip pull up (add weight until reaching limit of completion)
- Wed: Wide grip pull up
- Sat: Offset pull up
Right now I can do roughly 7x3 proper pull ups chest to bar, will be interesting to see my progression!
great video
I have one adjustment for progressive overload on pull ups
I would rather recommend adding each week maximum 1 kg
Indicated 500 g because if you start with 2kg and add 2 kg each week for 12 weeks maybe you will get away with that if you have very high quality recovery and even then you are at an higer risk of injury because your tendons and ligaments do not addapt as quickly as the muscles do.
If you got 12 weeks with adding like 0.5kg for ex at the end you will be able to lift an extra 6.5 kg and at least you know that you gave your tendons time to addapt. This would be my personal and safer approach. Verry important to test yourself and see what is your 1-2RM and choose (50-75%) of that weight as your starting point.
In the end it comes down to what you see it works the best for you, that is just my opinion.
Great instructive video. Are there any benefits using a pull up bar (other than more range variations) compared to doing the pullups on a hang board?
Nice 1 arm pull up mod at the start!!!! Lol I think I can do those for days!!! Lol
I should have done a one arm pull up by now then... damn. Not sure what I'm doing wrong, but I'm inspired to train now!
What helped me the most was one arm negatives, good luck!
Very helpful, Tnx
Hey Lattice, excellent vid!
Could you pls advise, for the 5 sets of 3 reps and 2/3min rest, what sort of intensity (%) are we looking at given a 1 or 2 rpm (weighted pull)? Thanks!
Nice work🔥👍💪💪💪
Thanks for the video, guys! I may have missed this, but any info you could share on frequency of pulling training sessions and how to effectively work them into or in between climbing sessions during a week would be great!
MattyS the simplest, broad answer is that you need to do it enough to create overload, but not so infrequently that you detrain between sessions. For many this will be 2x/week, for more advanced and well trained individuals it may be 3-4x.
Great video. I have a question on pull-up testing on Crimpd app. Please share the reasoning for doing 2RM vs 1RM testing on the app.
Great video! At 17:20 you mention the eccentric training and adequate rest. As I am always 'struggling' with resting I wonder what you see as 'rest'. Is it total rest, no climbing at all, or just rest from that type of training? Maybe you can elaborate on that a bit. Thanks :)
Did I miss the part where you recommend how many times a week to do the pull up workout? Should this be done once per week, or twice per week? Thanks
Lock off for a couple of days :D
Lattice, we want that singe hand pull up video!!
Great content thanks ! Starting to structure my pull-ups training, progress comes fast !
One question though: during the sets, in between each pull up, should I go all the way down to fully extended arms (resting on the bones) ?
I feel like when doing that it's a bit hard on the shoulder joints (especially with added weight), also feeling the shoulders tend to dislocate a bit ; so I stop right before that, staying with the shoulders engaged, same position as when hangboarding, what would you advice ?
Lockoff exercises actually help elbows? That's great news! I thought it was just coincidence that holding each move 3 seconds on easy toprope climbs feels right when my elbows aren't feeling 100%
1:38 what you came for
dogo
and 2:04
Great video!! Are all these exercises supposed to be done in one single workout session and how often should this session be done?
You should talk about scapular engagement rather than shoulders. Great video.
So if this is how you can build strength, what is the use of doing pull up reps till failure? Have the training lean towards endurance ? and if so where would you add such a training if this one has to be done with high frequency?
You should do one of these for wrist/forearm exercises!
Since I fractured the tops of both my ulnar's(yep same year, both arms xD) I've had to train my forearms to help stabilise and strengthen my wrists. A video might help others in similar positions.
..."and he needs to lock of for.. a couple of days" ahahahhaha xD
so is tendonitis arthritis a myth? whats the difference between over use ware and tare and strengthening?
DOG... Another great video chaps thank you.
Eliot Webb ah you spotted Finn the dog!
Did they just recommend 100 pullups in 10 minutes???
If you're a fit, elite level climber this is a workout that is possible, but when you first try this exercise, many start at 3/4/5 pull ups on the minute :-)
I've done 8 every minute for 30 minutes while being far from an elite climber (climbing 7a+ and V5). Took me 2 years to get to this point, however.
To be honest, most people cannot do it
This is an incredible guide. Very insightful. I only have 1 real question, as someone who lives an hour from their climbing gym and only gets to go once or twice a week. Is it practical to train pull ups, in the way you suggest, after a bouldering session? Or would you advise using a pull up bar at home to train on days when I don't climb? Thanks.
Matthew Fox would definitely advise on getting a pull up bar at home 💪💪 much better use of your time and bigger potential for improvement
Hi guys, in the case of doing this pull up drills on a gym (not a climbing gym), what would you recommend in terms of warming up? Cheers
I was wondering how the hell he was doing one armers so straight on like a regular pull up
Great intro 👍😂😂
Hey guys, im wondering how much losing weight interacts with building up strengh. im at like 12% bodyfat right now and im doing ropeskipping twice a week for 20 minutes on days on which i dont train for climbing. should i only focus on losing bodyfat until i got to like 10% or can i keep on doing both things during the week?
I once knew a 15 year old kid doing seven one arm pull-ups like the beginning of this video but without any help. I think he could have done seven more, never seen anything like that since.
Cool.
Hey, great video. I can't do the full range of movement when doing pull ups. I dislocated my right elbow when young and it no longer has its full range. It basically hurts towards the end of a full pull up. Any suggestions?
Physical therapy?
By the way. It’s training “regimen” not “regime”. A regime is a political term for the ruling government. A regimen is a prescription for a training goal. 😁🤙 Thanks for doing what you do. You fellows keep me cranking.
Thanks so much!! It’s terrible we’ve been using that word incorrectly for so long 😬. Right, no more! 😂
Lattice Training I like you guys too much to let it slide. Crank on and thanks for keeping me inspired.
@@MasterEngraverTV Regime is also defined as, "a regular pattern of occurrence or action." -merriam webster
With the isometrics would it be advisable to take a few kg off to ensure a full 5s hang? and vary the hang elbow degree of flexion, i.e 120, 90 and 45?
nick emery yes certainly could be a good idea. We use the varied angle of flexion in particular, quite a lot with clients 😊
I cant do a one arm lock off !! what shall i do ??
So, when you say 10 pull-ups on the minute for 10 minutes, do you mean 100 pull-ups total? Also, when doing a pull-up, do you recommend disengaging the shoulders between each reps?
Do you have any advice about the grip? I seem to be able to do lots of pulls ups on a jug or finger board, but really struggle to hold a round bar
maybe try some hand wrist training then.
Please help! I did this and I'm seeing improvement, BUT Now I'm starting to feel tennis elbow. Can you help me find a remedy on this? Anything I could do to train the antagonist or stretch ?
Back off intensity and work in some flexbar work with the Tyler Twist. A good antagonist exercise to balance is dips.
So first off: Nice video.
Regarding the content, I'm always confused about "adequate rest". Especially when you also have your normal climbing sessions, that also work those muscles to some extent.
You mention several days for one arm eccentric work, but you mention "multiple sessions throughout the week" during other exercises. I used to do and try all sorts of pullup variations last year and in an attempt to get some more structure, I recently switched to just weighted pull ups at 90% intensity, 5 reps for 5 sets per session. That stuff feels pretty intense and each session is barely doable, however I don't have aching arms or shoulders the next day, so I just go for 3 sessions a week. In addition, I tend to switch between wide and narrow grip throughout the sets within one session.
Now the interesting part ist: Is that too much work? Would 2 sessions a week be more appropriate? This is a maximum effort exercise after all.
Also: How do these things interfere with climbing? Let's say I want to do some hangboarding, some pull up training, some campus board and obviously some more climbing throughout the week. Right now I tend to do my climbing and the occasional campus session on the same days while in the gym, while I do the hangboarding and the pull ups at home. The simple reason: I have a hang board and a pull up bar at home, I can't go climbing every day and on the non climbing days I have a couple hours for my self on most nights. But is this a smart thing to do? Does climbing one day and hangboarding/pull ups the next day or vice versa fuck with my effective rest in a meaningful way? Would it be smarter to combine those things into one day and rather take more full rest days? Right now I have two proper rest days throughout the week, while the rest is filled with climbing and/or pull up and hangboard stuff.
I guess the real question comes down to: How do you structure a training period in a sensible way? You aren't doing JUST pull ups for 12 weeks after all.
edit: I also do a bunch of core and flexibility work, but I figure that doesn't interfere with my effective rest for the upper body and fingers at all.
Hi! Not from lattice, but I do have a lot of experience with combining climbing and pull-up training myself. I actually had the same problem of finding a balance between training and climbing and I honestly pushed the training to a degree that it didn't really help my climbing anymore. At least the pull-ups. Anyhow, I don't think that there is a definitive answer to the maximum amount of training that you should be doing. However, I think there are a few key points to look at:
1. Overuse and posture-related injuries: Make sure that you have external rotation exercises for your shoulders (I love face pulls!!!) and some finger/wrist extensor work in your training regime. Also re-evaluate your training if you feel tweaks or re-occuring injuries.
2. Are you actually training exercises that still benefit your climbing? To me that key moment was when I noticed that one of the best climbers in my bouldering gym is about at the same level as I am with weighted pull-ups. He climbs about a number-grade (!) better than me, so it is glaringly obvious that pull-up training will not benefit my climbing to a huge degree...
3. Are you still progressing with your pull-ups? If yes, your training is at least doing what it's supposed to do, so the dosing might not be too high.
4. Are your climbing sessions impacted to a significant degree? That was another epiphany for me when I noticed that I could climb a lot more hard routes in one session when doing only minimal training. This is at least a sign that reducing training for a while might be a good idea...
Okey
For hangboard sessions limit it to 2 to 3 times a week
The reason you are not aching the next day fron that pullups is because you are trading for strength. Muscle soreness comes more from heavy and slow eccentric load. The tipe of pull ups you do emphasize more on the requirement of the 2a and maybe 2b type of fibers (the fast twitch ones that fatigue moderately to fast )
I would suggest that if you want to do pull work after a climbing or campus session take 1 day off after it.
I would recommend to you to also train at least once a week the antagonist muscles like ( pushing muscles and wrist extensors) in order to keep a balanced and injury free body.
I want to ask if you are climbing at very high intensity or low to moderate intensity like 2-3 grades or 1 grade below your max?
If you climb at low intensity you can train at moderate-high intensity next day on pulling.
Also i would keep hangboard sessions later in the training because static motions are better after a dynamic style of training ( ex : do pull ups first and finish with hangboarding)
Also at the end of each workout put 2 sets of 10-12 quality reps of any rottator cuff and straight scapular strength exercise ( face pull, straight arm push down- you can find great indications of theese at Athlean-X channel by searching those exercises I have mentioned)
@@bogdansofiea7563 Well, typically I go the other way around. I will have a training day at home and then go climbing the next day, where I will then climb either close to my max or high volume a couple grades down. Since I don't feel sore/exhausted after a training session at home the following day, I figure it wouldn't impact my climbing too much. On the other hand I was worried that the day following an intense climbing session might make my fingers prone to injury when hangboarding. That could be wrong, I don't know. I do in fact do my hangboarding after my pull ups, since I noticed I get warmed up quicker to work on the edge and weight that I want to train if I have done the pull ups beforehand.
Regarding antagonist training: I am doing that to some extent, which means I regularly do a bunch of push ups at home or a few dips towards the end of climbing at the gym, but I'm not progressing that stuff. I used to get shoulder injuries a few months after I started climbing at which point I started doing some regular stretching and antagonist training and I haven't had trouble with shoulders ever since.
Thanks for the answers :)
When doing supersets, do you alternate between narrow and wide sets or do a couple narrow sets and then a cuouple wide?
Felix Backstedt yes that’s one form of supersets you can do... but there are many different types. Almost endless!
@@LatticeTraining Thanks!
What about muscle-ups?
When you film your training room, there is a fingerboard there with a cable attached to it? what is that?
I've been looking for a fingerboard that could track how much weight I'm actually putting on the system but such a device doesnt seem to exist in the market right now. Is that what it is?
Pedro Prego it’s a digital fingerboard. We mainly use this for research purposes and working with elite level athletes. You can find more info about it on our website 😊
2:05 💚
Can either of you guys actually do a one arm pull up??
I require immediate information pertaining to the name and whereabouts of the delightful sweet creature who appears at 1:40 🙏
Finn The Dog! He's Ollie's little delight :-)
@@LatticeTraining he's so fluffy!
10 reps on the minute for 10 minutes sounds really hard, to me! I can't imagine myself being able to do that. Should I then try for a lower amount of reps on the minute for that amount of minutes, so lets say 7-8 reps on the minute for 7-8 minutes? Untill I can do the ten, and then move up to strenght? Also, is it "neccessary" to go up to that amount, or can you do strenght before?
I do sets of 5, pretty hard. I do 10x2 sets, with 5min rest between. I alternate on narrow/wide and so on. Check out hoseok video on his pullup training. My goal is 10 reps in the end. Curious to see if I can do it this year,,
@@yvindmathiassen7617 I will check him out! goodluck with the goal 💪💪
The usual answer is not to decrease reps and time, but instead decrease weight to a weight where it just barely can be done. But the difference between 10 for 10 at lower difficulty and 7 for 7 at body-weight is so small it probably doesn't matter.
Hello !! Would you recommend this for 15 year old ?
Depends on the 15 year old. Advice better taken on by a trainer, since some kids are caught on one of those 3 fases. Underdeveloped/in development/just shy out of developed.
Just to make it clear:
-underdeveloped: haven't grown up to an adult body weight and muscles.
- in development: it's either on a spurt growth or a muscle growth or a variety of mixes in between.
- just shy out of: have only been for a couple years or less with a grown man/woman's body and not yet adjusted to it, sometimes having motor problems (really good time to train technique for some kids)
And obviously: a difference between man and woman here with different growth fases, hormonal fases and development.
so i should be able to do 100 pull ups in 10 minutes before moving on? I am at 10 pull ups body weight maximum right now. to redo 10 pull ups I need about 5mins of rest between. to reach 100 in 10 is gonna take forever 😊 can i assist the progess with strength trainig? or is it smarter to first solely focus on those 10min sets?
racctor you want to build up to the 10x10 step by step! A good starting point for most climbers is 3/4/5 per minute and get the full 10 sets done. If you take it steady and be consistent with it you should be able to increase by 1 rep per month approximately
@@LatticeTraining thank you for your content! will check out the app now as well!
Hi, Are Chin-ups worth doing as well pull-ups for climbing to work more muscle groups?
Do you ever do undercling moves?
@@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 a fair bit outside and occasionally indoors.
@@quantumsheep3296 Therein lies the answer!
Probably not as worth it though because it focuses more on biceps than triceps( what pull ups do) you don’t wanna get too much weight on your body if your a climber and overall pull up strength is far more worth it than chin up because you are mainly just increasing your weight by adding muscle in your biceps when doing chin ups
Anyone got any advice on how to progress from a two handed lock off to a one handed lock off. Can't currently do a one handed lock off.
A few good options; 1. use a pulley to unload the one arm, 2. hold a resistance band in the other hand, 3. offset lock-offs.
@@LatticeTraining thanks so much!
Going into the strength phase, how do I find out how much weight and how many repetitions I should do?
Have you had a look at our free training app - Crimpd? You can get sessions and workouts specific to climbing on there :-)
4:42 Might have missed it, but what exactly does "10 reps on the minute, for 10 minutes" mean? Does that mean you do a pull up every minute? Doesn't sound right to me
BLAOWWW!! You do 10 reps at the beginning of each minute. If it takes you 20 seconds to do them then you get 40 seconds of rest but then if it takes you 40 seconds to do them you’ll only get 20 seconds of rest before you have to start again.
@@Nick-B78 Perfect, thanks for clarifying
with power pull ups make sure to not hit your head on the ceiling lol
Yup good point! Same again for if you do this close to a wall, don't hit your knees in front of you...
If you really think drawing navel to spine is the way to stabilise your trunk, I suggest you study Prof Stu McGills's work.
How about monkey bars?
160-170% of bodyweight With both arms for the onearmer pull-up??
*calculating
OMG!
i have to pull up an extra 50-60kg (110-135lbs)!? O_O
well, i am at ~30-35 kg extra, give me 10 more years then! :'D
doggo
10 reps on the minute for 10 minutes?!? so 100 pullups total in 10 minutes?!
cool. Dear god oh no
y’all can’t afford heating?
Julia Smith best conditions for training but NOT filming!! Ha!
@@LatticeTraining Airflow. Every cyclist lives by it. Put on a fan and warm yourselves if you wish. :) Maybe jackets just look cool
I don't understand how anyone takes these guys seriously, they do nothing but sit on the couch
?
@@MrOmnisciens I was making a joke about them being couch potatoes. Now I had to explain it, so you've ruined it.
@@rrrents k