Woodturning | From scrap wood to a beautiful resin pen
Вставка
- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- Come check out our brand new shop launch! formanwoodwork...
_____________________________________
Check out my Instagram! www.instagram....
_____________________________________
Today's video:
The pens in this video were made from scrap pieces of oak, maple, and jatoba cut-offs I had lying around my workshop. To turn the cut-offs into thin strips that would fit into my pen moulds, I took a chisel to the pieces and sort of split them like you would with an axe to make kindling (not shown in video). I did my best to place the wood pieces in the moulds in the most haphazard way I could, although I probably could have still done a better job with that; I think the more random the placements, the more beautiful the final piece will be. For resin, I used Alumilite's Amazing Clear Cast epoxy resin, and for the dyes, I used Black Diamond's mica pigments. In hindsight, I should have used more pigment than I did, as in certain light and at certain angles, you can see a shimmer of the brass tubes beneath the epoxy. Always use more pigment than you think is necessary when casting pen blanks! The blanks then cured in a pressure pot for 24 hours (not shown) before I cut the blanks in half, bored out the tube holes on the lathe (if you don't have a drill press, this method works really well, and it's a lot cheaper than buying a quality press; see equipment below for the chuck I use), and then set them up with their brass tubes. After waiting 24 more hours for the CA glue to be fully cured, I turned the blanks down on the lathe to their approximate shape and then sanded them down to 600 grit. Wanting a glossy finish, I finished the pens with thin CA glue, wet sanded down to 12000 grit with micro-mesh, and then ended by polishing them with some plastic polish. Which one is your favourite, and which wood/resin combo do you think I should use in the future? Comment down below!
If I were to do things differently:
Because the resin gets so thin towards the ends of the pen blanks (the tip of the pen and the end), it's very easy to see the brass tubes beneath if you don't use enough pigment. To make sure you have enough, I think when mixing, you should be able to withdraw your stir stick from the resin and still not be able to see the wood (or silicone) showing through beneath. I know some people also try painting their tubes a similar colour as the resin they'll be using. Admittedly, I haven't tried this method yet. If you have, let me know in the comments if it's worked for you. What kind of paint do you use?
Key equipment/products I used:
Rikon 70-220 VSR Midi Lathe: www.leevalley....
Pen Mandrel: www.amazon.ca/...
Woodstock 1/2 inch bowl gouge: www.amazon.ca/...
Alumilite clear cast: www.alumilite....
Black Diamond mica pigments: www.blackdiamo...
Ballpoint pen kits: www.penblanks....
Pen Blank Chuck: www.amazon.ca/...
Pen Press: www.amazon.ca/...
Music provided by Epidemic Sound
On a clear morning - Sunfish Grove
The end - Sture Zetterberg
Running Circles - Cody Francis
Amazing! ❤ Good job! I was hooked from start to finish. My fingers were itching to hold them.😊
Nicely done. I actually like the lighter translucent look you got on these pens. I do backpaint my blanks with acrylic resin blanks if I am concerned about the tubes showing (I also have a few that show and I'd prefer that they not). I use simple acrylic hobby paint with good results. You only need a few colors and you can mix almost anything you need. The trick, and I learned it the hard way is that you really need to let the paint dry at least overnight if not at least 24 hours to let the paint cure. I use epoxy to glue my tubes in, so I am sure if CA would cause a problem with that paint that Epoxy doesn't. Also, if I the tubes are fitting a bit lose, I mix a few drops of that same acrylic paint into the epoxy to tint it for a little additional piece of mind. Keep up the good work!
Thanks, David! And thanks for the tips. I've been meaning to experiment with tube painting myself at some point (haven't tried it out yet)
GOOD JOB WELDONE
Lots of detailed information so I can do it myself! Thanks.
Just gorgeous
They are absolutely stunning
Loving those!
Beautiful!!
Those are absolutely amazing!!!!
Beautiful
I like them all just fine
They're beautiful. Now I have to find scraps.
outstanding work!
Very Cool. Turned out better than I thought it would. I'm subscribed
Thank you, Larry! I sincerely appreciate the support!
Wowww Brilliant Work 👌
Amazing work Davis!! 🔥🔥🔥 Subbed 😎
Thanks, buddy!
Those pens look fantastic! I have to try this. I think I can find some scrap wood 😀 Nice video too!
Thanks so much!
Great looking pens~!
Thank you, Andrew!!
Hermoso, que genialidad!!!! 👏👏👏💖💖💖🇦🇷🇦🇷🇦🇷
I guess the only thing missing in the description is the silicone mold itself … ? Your pen’s look great btw … been thinking about some type of hobby to get into. Thanks great video !
Damn, liek tolly pro craftsman
These are lovely. Can I ask - what's the thinking behind the use of a final coating of super-glue, rather than polish/varnish?
How is your first video this professional?!
that is a very nice pen and a great idea. for your epoxy did you put it in a pressure pot or just leave it out overnight in the air. and what kind of epoxy did you use, please and thanks
Thank you, Jim! For the resin, I used Alumilite's clear cast epoxy resin. And yes, I left the pen moulds to sit in a pressure pot for 24 hours before de-moulding.
great job 🔥🇦🇲sorry does anyone know where i can buy the pen products ?
What was the brand name of the resin?
After you sanded, what product did you apply?
Hi Orion! Once sanded, I finished these pens with multiple coats of thin cyanoacrylate glue (super glue) and further wet sanded that up 12000 grit before polishing
Where's you beautiful face? :)))