I have researched a large number of rust removal processes and your molasses demonstration is, by far, the clearest example of how it performs. Excellent video work and close-ups of the pitting that shows the effectiveness. And a good follow-up with the phosphoric acid pickling. I started to derust a motorcycle gas tank this week and I'm excited to see how it works on my own projects now.
Excellent video. A friend of mine has been doing this for nearly 25 years and swears this was the best method. He salvages 67-69 Camaro parts in a kiddy pool of this concoction
Excellent video! I've been using this method to restore antiques for nearly forty years! It gets severe oxidation off copper, brass and bronze, but turns it pink, and needs a bit more work with the steel wool/scourer. WARNING - don't put aluminium or alloys in there - they disappear! My mate tried it on his wife's aluminium frypan, and all that was left was the handle. He wasn't popular! p.s. Holdens rule!
just watched a show about rust removal from plastic media, sand, shell, soda, chemical, sanding and they all are not environmentally ideal methods. your video confirms there is a safe, effective way to get this arduous task done. cheers!
When molasses is mixed with water to those ratios, it's perfect for biological fermentation. If left to its own device, the wild yeasts will convert the sugar to ethanol and the acetobacter will convert the alcohol to acetic acid (or vinegar). What you see here is a very cheap way to make a strong vinegar solution and that will definitely remove the oxides. It probably works better after a few weeks and it stops working when all of the acetic acid has been neutralised.
I have been using Molasses to remove rust for more than 25 years and totally swear by it. It's not exactly quick but it is cheap and gives excellent results, feed grade is best IMO sold at feed stores all over. I have a "brew" that's been in constant use for nearly 2 years topped up occasionally but as it gets older the tendency for massive mold growth gets less. I treat bare steel with wax after use to stop rust.
When I saw the molasses for rust removal title I envisioned a huge regiment of ants attracted to the molasses and carrying away particles of rust as they made their rounds, and ending with you covered with ants and molasses as you battle to reclaim your rim. Happy to see the process didn't amount to that. I've got to try this. Thanks for the insight -- this is all new to me.
Fantastic Video Mate! I currently have the very rusty components of an old warn winch sitting in a molasses bath at the moment. Can't wait to see how it goes!
Thank you, the video was very informative. The comparisons were well-executed and clearly demonstrated the differences between the various solutions. I will try it on brass and steel.
Hey! Great video. So i'm trying to derust my motorcycle gas tank with this method and I can't seem to find any information. Could you help me out? What kind and how much molasses should I use for a 4 gallon tank? What should I do to help the tank from flash rusting after I clean out the molasses?
10 years later I'm still using your video. So good. It's funny to hear an Englishman talking while looking at palm tree shadows on the ground as you work. So which is it, Florida or Kalifornification? I'm from the later, so I feel conscious free saying that.
Hey buddy can you answer me one important question. How long can you leave the molasses and water in a container before they no longer work/clean rust? I was wondering if I mix 1:10L and leave it for months with the occasional use, will it be efficient or does it need replacing constantly?
great video thanks for sharing there are so many expensive products on the market especially toxic rust convertors that claim to convert the rust and dry to a black colour sealing rust from resurfacing the ones i use to buy in a bottle or trigger gun didnt allow the primers to stick properly a risk on panel work of a bad spray job but technology has changed i use to restore cars 15 years ago old xw-xy falcons i have been out of the game a while now thank you mate you demonstration explains this and you say that the molasses purchased from your supermarket is stronger than say from a farming supply after this treatment i presume you wash the part and make sure its clean then you apply a epoxy primer i wish there was a set up to dip the whole rolling shell of a car with this process then use a pressure cleaner theres other methods in the USA soda blasting but if your is a one off project its an expensive option cheers
I don't recall brands, but I did notice the grocery store jar seemed stronger than the pet feed stuff. It doesn't matter considering the pet feed was one dollar a liter and a quarter of the price of the grocery store jar. If you want strength I recommend reducing 5/1 then drain and replenish as soon as it stops frothing, hope this helps.
I have rust on the underside of my car and wheel wells. If I mix this in a spray bottle and keep spraying it on the car will it work. Love that it's not toxic
+Isa Isa No it won't work, the work really needs to be submerged.. If you would consider sand blasting you can use garnet which is also non toxic. I have a video on sand blasting in case you are interested. Thanks for the comment.
Very impressive. What was your step after thorough washing and drying? Did you say you painted it with phosphorous acid? I thought maybe using a hair dryer, followed by a spray painting of clear sealer. thx for posting!
I have been using a heat gun to aid drying and help avoid flash rust. It's also nice to do the washing up on a nice sunny day. These wheels were stored bare in doors for a while until I got around to painting them with an epoxy two pack primer. thanks for your comment.
Yes indeed, well done vid. Thank you. The flash rusting problem is one I experienced too, but on a cast iron bench plane, so the smaller scope of the project made it possible to contain the flashing by quickly toweling the parts off and immediately hitting them w/ a heat-gun so as to really, really complete the drying. This leaves me wondering if we could do the sludge removal w/ the pad or a stiff brush plus something like WD-40. In lieu of a petro lube, I would likely follow with a rust convertor since the flash-rust is so superficial and the convertor would then be primable, or even better would be a convertor primer :-). My plane parts only took about 3 or 4 days to get very well cleaned, there was no foam or funky fermentation, and I followed up with a cheapo pot-scrubber, like the vid. My results we similarly impressive, maybe tiny bit not quite as good, but completely comparable after the scrubbing/rinse.
So does this molasses method harm paint? Suppose I had a car part that's mostly painted but has some rust on it as well? Can I smear the molasses all over it, and hope that it will remove rust without harming the paint?
Yes it can harm paint, see my video (molasses gone wrong). No you can not brush the molasses on to remove rust, it will not work without the soaking, hope this helps.
@@StopTheRust Hi, I asked because I saw this video here: ua-cam.com/video/DquP9IXPbo4/v-deo.html That person had mixed the molasses with vinegar, and brushed that onto his Fiat 500 vehicle. He put plastic wrap on top, to keep it from drying out. Then later after some time, he cleaned it all off and the rust was gone. Do you think that maybe the vinegar made the difference, and enhanced the reaction?
I've been using it since the late 70s. What the best part about this method is you can mix up a whole bathtub full for pennies and throw in a complete car door. This would cost a small fortune with small bottles of proprietary treatments.
You are right that it would be a very important video. Unfortunately I am not going to make it any time soon. Right not it's all paint and body work on the Chevelle.
I have used this for the most nasty rust you can think of like a ww2 ax head found in the dirt after decades of rusting, clean as new. I have removed rust on car parts without taking off the parts by making packet bags to hold solution on the metal for a week or so. A rusted roof a of a car say, you can make a rim around the roof and fill it up with solution, while it sounds strange it does work.
what if you made a container with thick 6 mill poly and dipped parts. would poly be ok and not melt or fall apart.? that way I could make shallow container to fit trunk , hood,etc with 2 x 4 and poly liner.
bobinsky Not sure what poly it. I used the plastic sheet used when laying concrete, I built a timber frame for it lined with plastic and soaked two fenders and two doors at the same time.
Do you scoop the scum off and let it dry on newspapers before it goes into the trash? How many times can the molasses be used, or is it entirely sacrificial in one use?
My wash off goes down the drive way or into the garden. I didn't notice any grass dying so don't consider it much of a hazard. The molasses would have a finite amount of chemical energy potential. This means that a certain amount of molasses would remove a certain amount of rust. To make it more complicated the removal process would likely slow down as the molasses approaches exhaustion. You may not want to fully exhaust your molasses at a great cost of time.
yes and no. It will eat out the rust where it has already opened up the chrome, but you probably have some blistering where the chrome is about to go, the molasses won't get here. For a long term repair you might need to do more. If you were doing Molasses for other things, throw in your rusting chrome, it can only help.
it worked great for me when restoring my ferguson 35,on tin work and wheels and lots more only draw back is it takes a bit of time depending on the severity of the rust, i made the soaking tank from wood battens and lined it with heavy duty polythene.
I hope to do some blasting soon, and a pressure pot blaster is not that expensive. But you do want the biggest compressor you can get and it's a different kind of mess.
I use a water/molasses soak to refinish vintage tools. it's mild enough to not eat into the steel but man it smells badly after a while. Never use vinegar as it will eat into the steel and discolor the metal.
People like you will help the planet, and thus our souls when we have to explain to Allah one day why we were polluting it. Good job for sharing thanks,
I have a Temporary fence business and some of the fences which are Galvanized have gone rusty. Will the Mollasses eat the Gal paint away? Once i take the panel out of the solution and hose it down ,to stop the oxidization ,do you recommend to use the vinegar ? I will be either painting the fence with more Gal paint which is expensive and time consuming or i may paint the fence in kill rust.. Its a experiment to save the expensive panels !
Molasses will not eat paint so go ahead. Vinegar will not work as a rinse, you will get flash rust. I had better luck with a spirit based degreaser or consider a water dispersant like penetrene.
that is impressive! I've seen several vids on electrolysis too. have you tried it? if so, how does it compare? btw Just tonight I put an antique doorknob in a cup of molasses water. it will be interesting to see it work.
It's pet feed or livestock feed. Go to a large pet store or a stock feed supplier, then you can get it 20 litres at a time. thanks for the comment, and good luck
living near the ocean ,and owning a few hot rods I've had my battles with rust. I say I've never heard this method. I'm gonna try it next time for a small project ,but if you got a lot of surface to cover renting a 30hp air compressor with a pot feed sand blaster is the most time efficient. What is your opinion on those electronic rust prevention tricklers?
We need a chemist to tell us if it is the same type of acid vinegar/molasses or they may conflict. You could use Molasses mixed stronger say 5/1 with a large enough vat it should eat anything in a week.
All I can ad , from my own experience, you need to hose them with very hot water, then the water almost instantly evaporates leaving a dry surface that will not flash rust . On small parts I boil a kettle.
BTW, you need to heat the wheel up with the boiling water sufficiently for a couple of min's...then the residual heat in the wheel will quickly evaporate off the rest of the water.
I wonder if a comment I read about rinsing with distilled water will stop the flash rusting after taking it out and rinsing it first. The water you use for your iron from the supermarket.Pour it over for final rinse and dry it.
hi... my firearm is rusted badly. ive managed to take it apart but the rust has built up badly in some places. must i just soak parts molasis and hot water ( 10 to 1 ratio for a month in a sealed container and follow the other steps accordingly?
Sounds like a good plan, or consider a five to one ratio. Mire important than the ratio is how much molasses you use. If you want to finish the job first soak I think five liters of molasses. I'm sure your not going to put any timber or leather in because you know it would never smell the same.
how about acetone and transmission fluid? I heard that a 50/50 mix would bring better results than anything. I'll try both and get back with you. Thanks!!
In general I noticed that immediately after treatment the metal comes nice and clean but how do you prevent flash rust from coming back? Of course, my question is in light that after you do the immersion process, followed by cleaning, you do not apply a coat of primer to seal the metal?
+akshairtube wash thoroughly, rinse in hot water with bi carb soda to kill acid. Dry it with heat or air or wipe it dry depending on what it is. Some steels are very prone to flash rust, if it still flash rusts wipe it with phosphoric acid and scotch brite, gives a very nice finish.
Gotta wonder who in the heck first figured out that Molasses would remove rust? Maybe it was someone in the sugar factories that were often near the sea.But I agree this is the best method of all - no worries about toxicity; no worries about getting electrocuted or leaving the part soaking too long and almost zero effort as the solution does all the work. Smell and the couple weeks is the only disadvantage. My experience is more in the three week range - but probably I had deeper rust. A skim coat of epoxy over the pitting before painting is helpful afterwards as the moisture will get less of a foothold.
Stop The Rust Do you think that would be right then for an old steel gun barrel and mechanism that's quite heavily covered in surface rust from many years underground, but is still good underneath? it's an old German rifle from WW2.
Im interested in this to clear rust in the inside of of my wheel arches and the under car gutters, basicaly some impossilbe to pop off and soak places... could I clean up the area and simply paint on the mollasses or 1:1 with water- its pretty much like underboady seal in textures anyway? Reapply if it rains etc? Thanks so much for the vids really helpfull
Hi, Nice video. Have you ever tried applying the molasses at full strength to a rusted body panel with a paint brush? I ask because there are many rust situations where it simply isn't practical to remove the part and soak it for several weeks. Looking forward to hearing your reply. Tom
***** It won't work, you need the oxygen from the water to get fermentation and conversion from sugar to acid. They make a jelly with Photsphoric acid in it, can't remember the name, you can apply it upside down. Expect to need to scrub and reapply several times depending on how deep your rust is. Even better would be sand blasting, I have a video on sand blasting at home.
@@StopTheRust think hydroblasting no dust fadter bladt area cleaned,use leaf blower then ospho in a garden sprayer. Liquid rust converter kills flash rust now.
If restoring steel wheels, is there anything you can do about the pitting in the surface? I'm thinking I'll do this to restore some steel wheels to suit a 240z but want to paint them black once restored but obviously pitting will be an issue. Anything you can do about that? I'm thinking filler but not sure if that would be an issue? Also wonder if wheel balancing will be a problem? Any ideas?
Tires will be more out of balance than you wheel so I wouldn't worry about the wheel being balanced. First you have to decide if the wheels are structurally compromised. If not then I would use filler. good luck.
Stop The Rust thanks I'm looking for very specific early wheels that have a date stamp on them. So it's going to be a challenge to find them let alone find ones without some form of rust.
There is a wheel wright in Heidelberg Melbourne who could put a new rim on your center or something like that. Might cost less than you think. First thing is to clean back the rust and see how bad it is.
Yeah thanks, I was thinking widened steelies might be a good option also. Give it the old school race car look. :). I quite like the look of them without hubcaps on and white lettering on some fat profile tyres :).
Great video, could someone tell me if I can use molasses and water on a patio set that might be made of steel or iron, not sure, but it is rusted badly. I want to get the rust off but I do not want to ruin the table and chairs! Thanks in advance. Donna
+Stop The Rust similar item that I have but has some ornate brass motifs (although could be copper - haven't looked at it in a while), welded into the majority steel table and chairs. Do you think the molasses would have any negative effect on these softer metals. I looked at using electrolysis but more concerned about doing damage to that softer metal. Cheers.
Chunky Savage When I'm painting wheels I start by priming the whole lot, then I brush on a thick coat of tar under where the Tyre goes, allow drying time, sand, then top coat. The wheels are not on my daily driver and they are ok. Thanks for the comment.
Your going to use tar? Just curious cause I have leaky rims myself. I used primer and lacquer paint but I think I scuffed it up while reinstalling the tire. My uncle said he had luck with just running a thin coat of silicone on the beed and was successful!
Chunky Savage I don't fit my own tyres. I believe tyre fitters use a lubricant which may help with sealing. Lost of rims rust around the valve wholes, you may want to make sure it is neat around there.
Hey Sir, please give me more information about the molasses. What kind of molasses? Here in Brazil, the molasses I understand and know is made of sugar cane. It is a sub-product of sugar cane. Is this one you used to remove the rust? Regards
+Fabrizio Fracaroli Hi Fabrizio, 'Stop The Rust' must be busy and so I'll try to help you. Molasses is one of the the by-products of sugar production and your Brazilian molasses is the same as "Stop" is using. I've used this method before with excellent results. The only thing that I did differently was to take the items out every couple of days and give them a quick going over with a stiff brush. A floor scrubbing brush or a nail brush will do the job nicely. This removes flaky bits quicker allowing the mix to get down to the rust underneath. It also keeps you up to date on how much longer the items need to be in the solution. Order and Progress.
good stuff,Stop the Rust, thanks for showing this video. there was one more suggestion here from Chris Kendall for a magic rust removal : 26.5 l water (7 gallons) 3.8 l muriatic acid (1 gallon) 1/3 cup of salt 1/2 cup of vinegar Have you, Stop the Rust or other guys tried this one out? Would be great to hear / see of results
No I have never tried muriatic acid, a quick search suggests it's also known as hydrochloric acid. I'm not sure how you will need to dispose of it but I'd like to hear about results. Thanks for the comment.
I see this is an old video, but want to ask about vinegar vs. molasses. Is there any reason why molasses is preferred? Seems the vinegar wouldn't have that fermented smell that turns some people off. Not to mention the attraction of bears.
Well, first thought trough my noggin seeing these pictures is "...how did the ol' paint leave the scene ?..." Did you scotchbrite a LOT, or did the molasses dissolve that too ?
I probably used paint stripper. The molasses soak will compromise paint after a long soak, but then you would feel obliged to remove all that compromised paint. Check my video (Molasses gone wrong)
As acid is the 'solvent' of rust, caustic is therefore the opposite. I dip in hydrochloric acid, it's fast acting and cheap etc. But I wash of with caustic (sugarsoap aka caustic soda) which is again cheap etc. It has something to do with ionisation, which in reality give you more time up your sleeve before flash rust sets in.
Very interesting. I'm going to try an experiment using a molasses and vinegar mixture as a natural (i.e. non-chemical) drain cleaner. Here is a description of my experiment: I have a garbage disposal in the kitchen sink drain of my apartment. It seized up and no longer works. I don't want to replace it because I am planning to sell the apartment soon. However it gets plugged up with food particles every few months and I have to clear it with a drain cleaner liquid. I used to use chemical drain cleaners but I want to get away from keeping chemicals in my apartment. So I have been searching for a non-chemical drain cleaner. I have used baking soda and vinegar in the past. But that doesn't work very fast and I have read that the chemical reaction that occurs when the two are mixed actually produces a non-acidic product which reduces it's effectiveness to dissolve food. So I tried vinegar only, but that just runs through the disposal unit fairly quickly and down the drain, so it doesn't do much to dissolve the food particles either. I figure I need a viscous liquid that will coat and stick to the interior surfaces of the disposal and can be mixed with vinegar. Just today I thought about using molasses. It is a very viscous liquid, is acidic itself so shouldn't react with vinegar like baking soda does, and dissolves in water, so it should mix with vinegar. I just need to get the proportions of molasses to vinegar correct so that the viscosity is similar to something like liquid soap and sticks to the surfaces of the drain. Also, I plan to use "cleaning vinegar" with 10% acetic acid content. It is still a food-grade vinegar, just double the strength of regular vinegar. I'm pretty sure it will work and I can't wait to try it actually.
In this case pitting is from the rust. Be careful with cast iron. The molasses will etch iron. It can also attack some paints. I have a video called (Molasses gone wrong)
Soaked 13 very rust crusted camp ovens for 1 week in molasses & water -wow out came new looking camp ovens -washed in hot water and detergent ,rinsed dried well and coated with cooking oil ,left in summer sun for I week --this was 10 years ago and have had no signs of rust since --molasses and water also cleans up rusty screws nails etc that somehow always get left out in open .Anything steel now showing rusty signs gets the molasses treatment -save to use
After the cleaning use Metal Glow paste. It will of itself remove rust but contains a special rust inhibitor wax which seals the poors in the metal preventing the flash rust and moisture from reaching the metal again and having rust reappear. Works great on rusted over chrome rims and other parts. See tube Jay Lenos Garage - Rust Remover.
Hey mate,,,, maybe try soaking parts in a tub with a mixture of bi carb soda in water directly after you pull out of the molasses. It works not bad for neutralising acids
I have researched a large number of rust removal processes and your molasses demonstration is, by far, the clearest example of how it performs. Excellent video work and close-ups of the pitting that shows the effectiveness. And a good follow-up with the phosphoric acid pickling.
I started to derust a motorcycle gas tank this week and I'm excited to see how it works on my own projects now.
Excellent video. A friend of mine has been doing this for nearly 25 years and swears this was the best method. He salvages 67-69 Camaro parts in a kiddy pool of this concoction
Excellent video! I've been using this method to restore antiques for nearly forty years! It gets severe oxidation off copper, brass and bronze, but turns it pink, and needs a bit more work with the steel wool/scourer. WARNING - don't put aluminium or alloys in there - they disappear! My mate tried it on his wife's aluminium frypan, and all that was left was the handle. He wasn't popular! p.s. Holdens rule!
just watched a show about rust removal from plastic media, sand, shell, soda, chemical, sanding and they all are not environmentally ideal methods. your video confirms there is a safe, effective way to get this arduous task done. cheers!
When molasses is mixed with water to those ratios, it's perfect for biological fermentation. If left to its own device, the wild yeasts will convert the sugar to ethanol and the acetobacter will convert the alcohol to acetic acid (or vinegar). What you see here is a very cheap way to make a strong vinegar solution and that will definitely remove the oxides. It probably works better after a few weeks and it stops working when all of the acetic acid has been neutralised.
I have been using Molasses to remove rust for more than 25 years and totally swear by it. It's not exactly quick but it is cheap and gives excellent results, feed grade is best IMO sold at feed stores all over. I have a "brew" that's been in constant use for nearly 2 years topped up occasionally but as it gets older the tendency for massive mold growth gets less. I treat bare steel with wax after use to stop rust.
When I saw the molasses for rust removal title I envisioned a huge regiment of ants attracted to the molasses and carrying away particles of rust as they made their rounds, and ending with you covered with ants and molasses as you battle to reclaim your rim. Happy to see the process didn't amount to that. I've got to try this. Thanks for the insight -- this is all new to me.
When I heard you mention molasses I thought you were kidding, but wow. I am truly amazed...
Ta heaps mate!
Great video, no bull, no hype, definitive recommendation.
Organic safe solution - ideal!
Nice Work.
To protect used borox , sodium carbonate or best lime water to stop iar/water light corrosion.
Fantastic Video Mate! I currently have the very rusty components of an old warn winch sitting in a molasses bath at the moment. Can't wait to see how it goes!
Very interesting video. The smell description below makes me want to look for a commercial product.
Excellent video, well presented and explained. Also loved the Old Time song.
Thank you, the video was very informative. The comparisons were well-executed and clearly demonstrated the differences between the various solutions. I will try it on brass and steel.
Hey! Great video. So i'm trying to derust my motorcycle gas tank with this method and I can't seem to find any information.
Could you help me out?
What kind and how much molasses should I use for a 4 gallon tank?
What should I do to help the tank from flash rusting after I clean out the molasses?
Excellent video mate. Thank you. The after shots are amazing
10 years later I'm still using your video. So good. It's funny to hear an Englishman talking while looking at palm tree shadows on the ground as you work. So which is it, Florida or Kalifornification? I'm from the later, so I feel conscious free saying that.
After you clean the rim set it in a bin if stove alcohol for a hour and pull out wipe off dry and the flash rust stops but get it primed asap
Hey buddy can you answer me one important question. How long can you leave the molasses and water in a container before they no longer work/clean rust? I was wondering if I mix 1:10L and leave it for months with the occasional use, will it be efficient or does it need replacing constantly?
great video thanks for sharing there are so many expensive products on the market especially toxic rust convertors that claim to convert the rust and dry to a black colour sealing rust from resurfacing the ones i use to buy in a bottle or trigger gun didnt allow the primers to stick properly a risk on panel work of a bad spray job but technology has changed i use to restore cars 15 years ago old xw-xy falcons i have been out of the game a while now thank you mate you demonstration explains this and you say that the molasses purchased from your supermarket is stronger than say from a farming supply after this treatment i presume you wash the part and make sure its clean then you apply a epoxy primer i wish there was a set up to dip the whole rolling shell of a car with this process then use a pressure cleaner theres other methods in the USA soda blasting but if your is a one off project its an expensive option cheers
I don't recall brands, but I did notice the grocery store jar seemed stronger than the pet feed stuff. It doesn't matter considering the pet feed was one dollar a liter and a quarter of the price of the grocery store jar. If you want strength I recommend reducing 5/1 then drain and replenish as soon as it stops frothing, hope this helps.
I have rust on the underside of my car and wheel wells. If I mix this in a spray bottle and keep spraying it on the car will it work. Love that it's not toxic
+Isa Isa No it won't work, the work really needs to be submerged.. If you would consider sand blasting you can use garnet which is also non toxic. I have a video on sand blasting in case you are interested. Thanks for the comment.
Very impressive. What was your step after thorough washing and drying? Did you say you painted it with phosphorous acid? I thought maybe using a hair dryer, followed by a spray painting of clear sealer. thx for posting!
I have been using a heat gun to aid drying and help avoid flash rust. It's also nice to do the washing up on a nice sunny day. These wheels were stored bare in doors for a while until I got around to painting them with an epoxy two pack primer. thanks for your comment.
Great Stuff ! Try hot pressure wash off molasses and the water will just evaporate off without oxidizing
Yes indeed, well done vid. Thank you. The flash rusting problem is one I experienced too, but on a cast iron bench plane, so the smaller scope of the project made it possible to contain the flashing by quickly toweling the parts off and immediately hitting them w/ a heat-gun so as to really, really complete the drying.
This leaves me wondering if we could do the sludge removal w/ the pad or a stiff brush plus something like WD-40. In lieu of a petro lube, I would likely follow with a rust convertor since the flash-rust is so superficial and the convertor would then be primable, or even better would be a convertor primer :-).
My plane parts only took about 3 or 4 days to get very well cleaned, there was no foam or funky fermentation, and I followed up with a cheapo pot-scrubber, like the vid. My results we similarly impressive, maybe tiny bit not quite as good, but completely comparable after the scrubbing/rinse.
Very good and thanks for posting this excellent "How To Do" Video!
So does this molasses method harm paint? Suppose I had a car part that's mostly painted but has some rust on it as well? Can I smear the molasses all over it, and hope that it will remove rust without harming the paint?
Yes it can harm paint, see my video (molasses gone wrong).
No you can not brush the molasses on to remove rust, it will not work without the soaking, hope this helps.
@@StopTheRust Hi, I asked because I saw this video here:
ua-cam.com/video/DquP9IXPbo4/v-deo.html
That person had mixed the molasses with vinegar, and brushed that onto his Fiat 500 vehicle. He put plastic wrap on top, to keep it from drying out. Then later after some time, he cleaned it all off and the rust was gone. Do you think that maybe the vinegar made the difference, and enhanced the reaction?
Good video. Question. My molasses says that it's unsulphured. Is that what you used? Does it make any difference?
I've had the same results with molasses on rusty tools. 1/10 ratio per size of the container. Better results without harmful chemicals.
Amazing! Great vid; before-after shots are great, Thank you!!!!
I've been using it since the late 70s. What the best part about this method is you can mix up a whole bathtub full for pennies and throw in a complete car door. This would cost a small fortune with small bottles of proprietary treatments.
Good video, thanks. Next, please compare electrolysis with molasses derusting.
You are right that it would be a very important video. Unfortunately I am not going to make it any time soon. Right not it's all paint and body work on the Chevelle.
I have used this for the most nasty rust you can think of like a ww2 ax head found in the dirt after decades of rusting, clean as new. I have removed rust on car parts without taking off the parts by making packet bags to hold solution on the metal for a week or so. A rusted roof a of a car say, you can make a rim around the roof and fill it up with solution, while it sounds strange it does work.
genious !
what if you made a container with thick 6 mill poly and dipped parts.
would poly be ok and not melt or fall apart.?
that way I could make shallow container to fit trunk , hood,etc with 2 x 4 and poly liner.
bobinsky Not sure what poly it. I used the plastic sheet used when laying concrete, I built a timber frame for it lined with plastic and soaked two fenders and two doors at the same time.
Do you scoop the scum off and let it dry on newspapers before it goes into the trash? How many times can the molasses be used, or is it entirely sacrificial in one use?
My wash off goes down the drive way or into the garden. I didn't notice any grass dying so don't consider it much of a hazard.
The molasses would have a finite amount of chemical energy potential. This means that a certain amount of molasses would remove a certain amount of rust. To make it more complicated the removal process would likely slow down as the molasses approaches exhaustion. You may not want to fully exhaust your molasses at a great cost of time.
Could this work on chromed exhaust,excellent video.Many thanks
yes and no. It will eat out the rust where it has already opened up the chrome, but you probably have some blistering where the chrome is about to go, the molasses won't get here. For a long term repair you might need to do more. If you were doing Molasses for other things, throw in your rusting chrome, it can only help.
it worked great for me when restoring my ferguson 35,on tin work and wheels and lots more only draw back is it takes a bit of time depending on the severity of the rust, i made the soaking tank from wood battens and lined it with heavy duty polythene.
Glad it worked out for you. I'm about to do my biggest soak, I'm lining it with plastic sheet that concreters use.
I hope to do some blasting soon, and a pressure pot blaster is not that expensive. But you do want the biggest compressor you can get and it's a different kind of mess.
love the background old school blues.
I use a water/molasses soak to refinish vintage tools. it's mild enough to not eat into the steel but man it smells badly after a while. Never use vinegar as it will eat into the steel and discolor the metal.
That does look really great but how can we use it on parts that can't be removed.
I used the plastic liner for pouring concrete to submerge Chevy front fenders, might have done a vid. People also submerge entire car bodies.
People like you will help the planet, and thus our souls when we have to explain to Allah one day why we were polluting it.
Good job for sharing thanks,
will this hurt plastic or anything else that is part of metal thats being treated ?
Thanks for your input, where do you get your Hydrochloric acid ? keeping in mind I'm going to need at least 200 liters to submerge panels.
Excellent video. Thanks. I shall use this method to do my rusty motor bike tank.
I have a Temporary fence business and some of the fences which are Galvanized have gone rusty. Will the Mollasses eat the Gal paint away? Once i take the panel out of the solution and hose it down ,to stop the oxidization ,do you recommend to use the vinegar ? I will be either painting the fence with more Gal paint which is expensive and time consuming or i may paint the fence in kill rust.. Its a experiment to save the expensive panels !
Molasses will not eat paint so go ahead. Vinegar will not work as a rinse, you will get flash rust. I had better luck with a spirit based degreaser or consider a water dispersant like penetrene.
would vinegar be better for lighter rust or smaller objects ?
that is impressive! I've seen several vids on electrolysis too. have you tried it? if so, how does it compare? btw Just tonight I put an antique doorknob in a cup of molasses water. it will be interesting to see it work.
hey that's a great video
thaniks for doing this
question, where do you buy it ?
It's pet feed or livestock feed. Go to a large pet store or a stock feed supplier, then you can get it 20 litres at a time. thanks for the comment, and good luck
@@StopTheRust appreciate your assistance
have a great day
I always wondered if gumout would work on rust?
Great video! Thanks! I know vinegar works. I have used it overnight on some rusty tools and it does a great job.
living near the ocean ,and owning a few hot rods I've had my battles with rust. I say I've never heard this method. I'm gonna try it next time for a small project ,but if you got a lot of surface to cover renting a 30hp air compressor with a pot feed sand blaster is the most time efficient.
What is your opinion on those electronic rust prevention tricklers?
*****
Do you think baking soda in the cleaning would reduce the flash rust ?
We need a chemist to tell us if it is the same type of acid vinegar/molasses or they may conflict. You could use Molasses mixed stronger say 5/1 with a large enough vat it should eat anything in a week.
I wonder if it will get in between clamped parts, such as a transfer case chain. I have a rusty one I want to give a whirl.
All I can ad , from my own experience, you need to hose them with very hot water, then the water almost instantly evaporates leaving a dry surface that will not flash rust .
On small parts I boil a kettle.
BTW, you need to heat the wheel up with the boiling water sufficiently for a couple of min's...then the residual heat in the wheel will quickly evaporate off the rest of the water.
I wonder if a comment I read about rinsing with distilled water will stop the flash rusting after taking it out and rinsing it first. The water you use for your iron from the supermarket.Pour it over for final rinse and dry it.
I would think distilled water rusts just as well as regular tap water. I have not done a controlled test.
hi... my firearm is rusted badly. ive managed to take it apart but the rust has built up badly in some places. must i just soak parts molasis and hot water ( 10 to 1 ratio for a month in a sealed container and follow the other steps accordingly?
Sounds like a good plan, or consider a five to one ratio. Mire important than the ratio is how much molasses you use. If you want to finish the job first soak I think five liters of molasses. I'm sure your not going to put any timber or leather in because you know it would never smell the same.
how about acetone and transmission fluid? I heard that a 50/50 mix would bring better results than anything. I'll try both and get back with you. Thanks!!
Regen Ducere I think it will work.
In general I noticed that immediately after treatment the metal comes nice and clean but how do you prevent flash rust from coming back? Of course, my question is in light that after you do the immersion process, followed by cleaning, you do not apply a coat of primer to seal the metal?
+akshairtube wash thoroughly, rinse in hot water with bi carb soda to kill acid. Dry it with heat or air or wipe it dry depending on what it is. Some steels are very prone to flash rust, if it still flash rusts wipe it with phosphoric acid and scotch brite, gives a very nice finish.
+Stop The Rust ... I also found out that you can spray with an inhibitor, and thanks for your response-
You've got me wondering if it works that way on steel . How would the same idea work on Aluminum wheels ( not sealed) ?
It will etch the aluminum very hard, don't do it!
Love the Torana too!
could you possibly brush it on or does it have to be soaked?
i have a set of rusty extractors but i dont want the molases to get caught in the piping
You really have to take them off the car and submerge them to do this. I would also try not to have air pockets inside it when you put it in.
Gotta wonder who in the heck first figured out that Molasses would remove rust? Maybe it was someone in the sugar factories that were often near the sea.But I agree this is the best method of all - no worries about toxicity; no worries about getting electrocuted or leaving the part soaking too long and almost zero effort as the solution does all the work. Smell and the couple weeks is the only disadvantage. My experience is more in the three week range - but probably I had deeper rust. A skim coat of epoxy over the pitting before painting is helpful afterwards as the moisture will get less of a foothold.
Probably a moonshiner left a rusty stirring iron in his mash barrel too long.
Whats the ratio of molasses to water that u think yields best results?
wow really impressed! Thanks putting up the video.
Also is it only rusty steel that this work on or other metals too? What about alloys?
is there a particular formula for the molasses to water? Impressive!
I like 5/1 water/molasses but I feel that a more important ratio is the quantity of rust to the quantity of molasses
thanks. I knew a bloke years ago who swore by the molasses and I'd forgotten his formula. Good stuff mate.
Stop The Rust Do you think that would be right then for an old steel gun barrel and mechanism that's quite heavily covered in surface rust from many years underground, but is still good underneath? it's an old German rifle from WW2.
can you just wipe molasses directly onto rusty spots and let it sit or does it need to soak in water?
It really needs to soak. If you need something to brush on look at navel jelly
Im interested in this to clear rust in the inside of of my wheel arches and the under car gutters, basicaly some impossilbe to pop off and soak places... could I clean up the area and simply paint on the mollasses or 1:1 with water- its pretty much like underboady seal in textures anyway? Reapply if it rains etc? Thanks so much for the vids really helpfull
I doubt you would get results by brushing on. I also have a video on sand blasting, if you can sand blast I recommend it.
I will check that out thanks again
Hi, Nice video. Have you ever tried applying the molasses at full strength to a rusted body panel with a paint brush? I ask because there are many rust situations where it simply isn't practical to remove the part and soak it for several weeks. Looking forward to hearing your reply. Tom
***** It won't work, you need the oxygen from the water to get fermentation and conversion from sugar to acid.
They make a jelly with Photsphoric acid in it, can't remember the name, you can apply it upside down. Expect to need to scrub and reapply several times depending on how deep your rust is. Even better would be sand blasting, I have a video on sand blasting at home.
Stop The Rust Thanks for the reply. If oxygen is the key, I wonder if hydrogen peroxide and molasses might work. Maybe I'll give it a test.
***** Naval gelly.
@@StopTheRust think hydroblasting no dust fadter bladt area cleaned,use leaf blower then ospho in a garden sprayer. Liquid rust converter kills flash rust now.
You can buy double strength vinegar ( 8% ) from Coles, works great on rust.
If restoring steel wheels, is there anything you can do about the pitting in the surface? I'm thinking I'll do this to restore some steel wheels to suit a 240z but want to paint them black once restored but obviously pitting will be an issue. Anything you can do about that? I'm thinking filler but not sure if that would be an issue? Also wonder if wheel balancing will be a problem? Any ideas?
Tires will be more out of balance than you wheel so I wouldn't worry about the wheel being balanced. First you have to decide if the wheels are structurally compromised. If not then I would use filler. good luck.
Stop The Rust thanks I'm looking for very specific early wheels that have a date stamp on them. So it's going to be a challenge to find them let alone find ones without some form of rust.
There is a wheel wright in Heidelberg Melbourne who could put a new rim on your center or something like that. Might cost less than you think. First thing is to clean back the rust and see how bad it is.
Yeah thanks, I was thinking widened steelies might be a good option also. Give it the old school race car look. :). I quite like the look of them without hubcaps on and white lettering on some fat profile tyres :).
was is the recipe as I would like to try it. thanks
Wow, molasses is amazing!
Great video, could someone tell me if I can use molasses and water on a patio set that might be made of steel or iron, not sure, but it is rusted badly. I want to get the rust off but I do not want to ruin the table and chairs! Thanks in advance.
Donna
Donna Gibbs Yes
+Stop The Rust similar item that I have but has some ornate brass motifs (although could be copper - haven't looked at it in a while), welded into the majority steel table and chairs. Do you think the molasses would have any negative effect on these softer metals. I looked at using electrolysis but more concerned about doing damage to that softer metal. Cheers.
Don't know for a fact but would suspect the more noble metals will be less effected.
What are the quantities for molasses and water? Thank you and have a great day.
+39LEGOTO I like 5/1 or 10/1
Nicely done. Thank you for sharing.
Any sealing issues with tires on those rims! I would assume so with all that pitting. Have issues of my own! Good video by the way!
Chunky Savage When I'm painting wheels I start by priming the whole lot, then I brush on a thick coat of tar under where the Tyre goes, allow drying time, sand, then top coat. The wheels are not on my daily driver and they are ok. Thanks for the comment.
Your going to use tar? Just curious cause I have leaky rims myself. I used primer and lacquer paint but I think I scuffed it up while reinstalling the tire. My uncle said he had luck with just running a thin coat of silicone on the beed and was successful!
Chunky Savage I don't fit my own tyres. I believe tyre fitters use a lubricant which may help with sealing. Lost of rims rust around the valve wholes, you may want to make sure it is neat around there.
Thanks I'll look into it and see if your idea of el-cheepo is as cheap as mine.
will this method work on old axe heads ? some of these axe heads have embossing on them and i dont want to loose this any suggestions thanks
The molasses will remove the rust and only the rust. if any of the detail is rusted away then you'll lose that, if its not you'll be fine.
Would this work well for my Aluminum rims?
How can I get the rust off the roof of my car, if I can't let it sit for weeks?
ONECHANCETODOITRIGHT I doubt you can submerge your roof but it's flat and easily accessed so try a strip it disc or sand blasting.
What brand of Molasses do you use or think is the best to use?
Hey Sir, please give me more information about the molasses. What kind of molasses?
Here in Brazil, the molasses I understand and know is made of sugar cane.
It is a sub-product of sugar cane. Is this one you used to remove the rust?
Regards
+Fabrizio Fracaroli Hi Fabrizio, 'Stop The Rust' must be busy and so I'll try to help you. Molasses is one of the the by-products of sugar production and your Brazilian molasses is the same as "Stop" is using. I've used this method before with excellent results. The only thing that I did differently was to take the items out every couple of days and give them a quick going over with a stiff brush. A floor scrubbing brush or a nail brush will do the job nicely. This removes flaky bits quicker allowing the mix to get down to the rust underneath. It also keeps you up to date on how much longer the items need to be in the solution. Order and Progress.
+Terry Miff Thank you Terry, I got it, and I will try it here
+Terry Miff Also a pressure washer is good for periodic inspection.
good stuff,Stop the Rust, thanks for showing this video.
there was one more suggestion here from Chris Kendall for a magic rust removal :
26.5 l water (7 gallons)
3.8 l muriatic acid (1 gallon)
1/3 cup of salt
1/2 cup of vinegar
Have you, Stop the Rust or other guys tried this one out? Would be great to hear / see of results
No I have never tried muriatic acid, a quick search suggests it's also known as hydrochloric acid. I'm not sure how you will need to dispose of it but I'd like to hear about results. Thanks for the comment.
I see this is an old video, but want to ask about vinegar vs. molasses. Is there any reason why molasses is preferred? Seems the vinegar wouldn't have that fermented smell that turns some people off. Not to mention the attraction of bears.
Yea I wouldn't do this in bear country. Vinegar etches the metal harder. I have some videos on vinegar.
@@StopTheRust Ok, thx for the reply and the etching info. 👍
I must have missed seeing which one of of the rims you used vinegar on instead of the molasses. How did they compare?
Also, what molasses works best? Darker?
Oblithian I doubt there will be much difference from one molasses to another. Some of the comments below will disagree.
Oblithian Vinegar ended up in another video, if you check my channel I use vinegar in three videos I think.
Thanks!
What is the chemical process?
Well, first thought trough my noggin seeing these pictures is "...how did the ol' paint leave the scene ?..." Did you scotchbrite a LOT, or did the molasses dissolve that too ?
I probably used paint stripper. The molasses soak will compromise paint after a long soak, but then you would feel obliged to remove all that compromised paint. Check my video (Molasses gone wrong)
You removed the rust but some bubbles are still there and that wheel its not good anymore its got too many pores that will leak out air
As acid is the 'solvent' of rust, caustic is therefore the opposite. I dip in hydrochloric acid, it's fast acting and cheap etc. But I wash of with caustic (sugarsoap aka caustic soda) which is again cheap etc. It has something to do with ionisation, which in reality give you more time up your sleeve before flash rust sets in.
Did you try High pressure gun on it.
Very interesting. I'm going to try an experiment using a molasses and vinegar mixture as a natural (i.e. non-chemical) drain cleaner.
Here is a description of my experiment:
I have a garbage disposal in the kitchen sink drain of my apartment. It seized up and no longer works. I don't want to replace it because I am planning to sell the apartment soon. However it gets plugged up with food particles every few months and I have to clear it with a drain cleaner liquid. I used to use chemical drain cleaners but I want to get away from keeping chemicals in my apartment. So I have been searching for a non-chemical drain cleaner.
I have used baking soda and vinegar in the past. But that doesn't work very fast and I have read that the chemical reaction that occurs when the two are mixed actually produces a non-acidic product which reduces it's effectiveness to dissolve food.
So I tried vinegar only, but that just runs through the disposal unit fairly quickly and down the drain, so it doesn't do much to dissolve the food particles either.
I figure I need a viscous liquid that will coat and stick to the interior surfaces of the disposal and can be mixed with vinegar. Just today I thought about using molasses. It is a very viscous liquid, is acidic itself so shouldn't react with vinegar like baking soda does, and dissolves in water, so it should mix with vinegar.
I just need to get the proportions of molasses to vinegar correct so that the viscosity is similar to something like liquid soap and sticks to the surfaces of the drain. Also, I plan to use "cleaning vinegar" with 10% acetic acid content. It is still a food-grade vinegar, just double the strength of regular vinegar.
I'm pretty sure it will work and I can't wait to try it actually.
best of luck with your experiment.
is the pitting from the molasses or from how far the rust got through?
In this case pitting is from the rust. Be careful with cast iron. The molasses will etch iron. It can also attack some paints. I have a video called (Molasses gone wrong)
Soaked 13 very rust crusted camp ovens for 1 week in molasses & water -wow out came new looking camp ovens -washed in hot water and detergent ,rinsed dried well and coated with cooking oil ,left in summer sun for I week --this was 10 years ago and have had no signs of rust since --molasses and water also cleans up rusty screws nails etc that somehow always get left out in open .Anything steel now showing rusty signs gets the molasses treatment -save to use
Excellent Mate,
Great job of that video. No BS.
After the cleaning use Metal Glow paste. It will of itself remove rust but contains a special rust inhibitor wax which seals the poors in the metal preventing the flash rust and moisture from reaching the metal again and having rust reappear. Works great on rusted over chrome rims and other parts. See tube Jay Lenos Garage - Rust Remover.
Hey mate,,,, maybe try soaking parts in a tub with a mixture of bi carb soda in water directly after you pull out of the molasses.
It works not bad for neutralising acids
That is a cool way to remove rust.