The Strong Shoulder Pad - Is It Back? 2022 (Mugler, Armani, Rick Owens, and McQueen)
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- Опубліковано 11 гру 2022
- In the men’s world of suiting, with its dress shirts, buttons, sport coats and neckties, there’s little room for flair. Savile Row tailors, like Anderson and Sheppard, Benson and Clegg, and Gieves and Hawkes, have spent their lives perfecting the padded shoulder. How did it come to represent women in the 80’s? Today, we’re looking into the world of large shoulders on women, and the fashion designers who made it special, making statements on seduction, power, and independence in their runway shows. Designers include Rick Owens, Thom Browne, Virgil Abloh, Alexander McQueen, Martin Margiela, Thierry Mugler, and Giorgio Armani. Fashion week isn’t the same without padded shoulders. Menswear and womenswear collide in this week’s episode.
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so nobody saw the message at 01:23 huh? 🤔
you wish:)
I could only visually spot an Alexander McQueen show. Do I get a point?
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
@@stevezytveld6585 Cathy and Steve, representing Ottawa, are in the lead 💫💫
Raise your hand if you felt up your shoulder: 🙋
Middle American here…too much blubber
Maybe I missed it bc your video is still playing while typing this, but I can’t believe you forgot to mention the biggest known for the shoulder pads Claude Montana who inspired many big name designer like JPG and McQueen. Montana gave up on fashion decades ago, but made a huge impact on the 80’s and 90’s high fashion scene. The big 3 back in the 80’s was Armani, Versace and Montana. Don’t forget the legends!
for anyone on the fence about the patreon its so worth it i pay £3 a month and learn so much it’s inspired me to go study fashion design in uni next year too and its not like other discords where the owner dips bliss is always there when he can interacting with people everyone is so nice and helpful by far the best community let alone discord ive been apart of
Bliss I want to point out a observation. You analyze these topics in a really really fun way and I like your takes about them. Your videos from two years before tho... You used to give a lot of quotes from books and articles from designers and critics as well and I kinda miss those times. I used to read your book or article recomentidation and quotes all the time. Maybe you would concider to give those again some day. Great work as always, much love.
I've been trying to design a more androgynous wedding outfit, and sleeves and shoulders are where I'm stuck right now (if I want sleeveless, or sleeves, or what material). It's neat seeing so many ways that things have changed and ideas that have come up, but most of my sewing books are from the 90s where big shoulders were a big part of formal wear, and modern designs don't often have that. I really like how each designer kind of took an idea, and then took it a step further in their own direction. I guess I'm just looking for my direction as I just like to sew for myself.
I am gradually learning and teaching myself about suit tailoring so I have the skillset to start messing about with the shoulder fun in my own sewn creations...
It's interesting - the designers in the 80's were directly quoting from the 1930's for an aesthetic that fit more with the 1940's drive to bring women into a diminished workforce. You could not be an adult in that time period without living a two income household - it was this weird amalgam of not only wanting to work outside of the home (thank you Third Wave Feminism), but a necessity to achieve the Middle Class dream of owning ones own home. Those 18% interest rates were not joking around...
Basically - 80's shoulder pads come down to what the Kids would call a 'Gender %$#@'. There was pushback - I remember commentators wishing that 'women would just dress like women'. If a woman could take on aspects of what is considered belonging to men, then it brings up the question 'what is a man?'. Throw in the early struggle with AIDS and, to my mind, you have the beginning of the gender fluidity that we see on the runways today.
There's also the aspect of women being allowed and encouraged to 'take up space'. It's something, to our eyes, that's almost revolutionary. Something we haven't really seen since bustle pads and side paniers. A statement that there is a person in the room and their space is securely mapped out around the form. Clothing as boundary. Clothing as armor for whatever battle comes next. Battle On, Zena...
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
Wow and thanks and that was insightful info and was hit with the 80’s high fashion as a teen back then.
@@jacknjill3000 I remember the pads got as thick as 2" in the 1980's. And, thanks.
- C.
The line in Working Girl (1989) "Finally, a woman who isn't afraid to dress like a girl"...was the reaction to the reaction...
Also, besides coming out of depression as you mentioned, in the 40s women's shoulders got stronger bc they have been occupying job positions left by men who were fighting the war :).
The way Bliss Talks about each fashion topic on his channel is just like a ride on a fashion roller coaster haha and it's so swag
My first attraction to power shoulder or technically known as PAGODA SHOULDERS was during ‘09 during Decarnin’s strong era in Balmain. The power formula of supermodels + band jacket + blogging was the perfect recipe during that time to fully embrace that deviation to the normal codes of dressing. Power shoulder will always be seen as something risque and different because of the exaggerated protrusion and how it warps the anatomy of the wearer. Speaking of the anatomy I love Rick’s description of the Power Shoulder during his previous EDFU collection. The Parenthesis-like shoulder was made not only to create a strong look but also to elongate the arms and I find that really really clever as he was the only designer who pointed it out. It’s true though, that if a garment has an upward peak shoulder detail, the arms are elongated, giving the wearer a new form , a new type of body and beauty. In my previous video, I was wearing the Margiela peak narrow jacket mentioned in this video and I love love love it. The higher the shoulder, the closer to god❤
You’re such an amazing teacher, I learn so much from you! It makes me appreciate fashion even more and I didn’t think that was actually possible. Thank you 😊👍🏼💖
Wow, thank you! 🦾
@@BlissFoster 💖
I don’t know a lot about tailoring so the bit about the different “main” style of shoulders was very helpful !
But also, I wanted to point out that the shoulders with the high bump are found in some 16th century styles (see Elizabethean shoulders and their variety for men AND women) and 19th century has a lot of pretty strong shoulders too.
Wake up the kids, Bliss posted! Darling, they need to understand fashion.
I wouldn't say the shoulder pad is back per se just because a few designers are experimenting with it. For shoulder pads to be declared officially "back," they have to be utilized by many designers including lower-end clothing brands such as Target. They'd have to stick around for at least a full decade. And they would need to be everywhere to the point they become ubiquitous. During the 1980s, shoulder pads were used from high-end designers such as Giorgio Armani and Claude Montana, to even clothes found at your local K-Mart. You could find shoulder pads in jackets, t-shirts, sweatshirts and sweaters. You could also buy them separately to add to your pad-less garments. They gave your upper body more volume.
During the '80s, it took a lot more than shoulder pads to make someone look powerful. In addition to the shoulder pads, you also had bold jewelry, makeup, tight skirts, voluminous hair, fur coats, ornamentation, logos, layering, strict tailoring and body hugging clothes. All these elements came together to form what we called "power dressing" or "establishment dressing." To look "powerful" was to look your best. To look professional. To look dressed for success no matter the occasion. Shoulder pads weren't just about power, they provided structure and shape to the jackets and tops as it meant looking polished from head to toe. They also made a person's waist appear smaller. Women wanted to look capable in the boardroom but still GLAMOROUS. The models of the '80s were "glamazons" (glamour + amazon).
Most fashion of the '80s was considered conservative and mostly inspired by the 1940s rather than the 1930s. Also, we can't talk about shoulder pads and the 1940s without mentioning actress Joan Crawford. It wasn't just about having wide shoulders, but also having creating a horizontal shoulder-line that looked great on Ms. Crawford. During the '80s, fashion designers were selling us the fantasy of looking like a wealthy socialite or the aspirational corporate go-getter who could kick butt in the office while getting that big promotion. We started seeing more BMW, Mercedes, Volvo and Porsche on the road which were the ultimate status symbols of the time. So, people needed a wardrobe that reflected the new wealth. Wearing shoulder pads, and looking a little like Joan Crawford, certainly helped.
I think the main reason shoulder pads aren't noticed in menswear as they are in womenswear is because men already have large shoulder so padding doesn't draw much attention to your eyes as they do on women. Putting shoulder pads on a man will enhance his appearance but it won't change it. But since women have smaller shoulders, the effect of shoulder pads will be more dramatic - almost to the point of looking unnatural. When you mention the 3 areas of menswear as: "military-inspired designs, suits and work-wear..." you forgot to mention a fourth area - athletics. Menswear is more functional which is why it doesn't change much. Menswear is evolving, but it happens more slowly... with or without shoulder pads.
So, I don't think shoulder pads are back. Rarely does something make a comeback in the same capacity as it did the first time. Only if we see them at every price-point for at least a decade, I'd say shoulder pads are back. But until then, I'll just enjoy watching whatever the designers come up with.
Editing is 💯 Bliss is in his element 🔥
My problem with shouldery designs is that it forces an attitude. The power shoulder requires (imo) the power strut and power attitude. And I want my clothes to serve me, not them to limit my expression to "embody power".
That’s a great thought 💫💫
Loved this episode 🔥
I used to HATE shoulder pads during the eighties. I was punk and wore nothing but vintage clothing, I mean old, 1920's, 30's clothing. All the antiestablishment people despised the shoulder pads, or basically all the 80's clothing back in the day,. I've definitely warmed up to them in recent years though.
EXCEPTIONAL AS ALWAYS BLISS
Great Video
As always, great video
Great work once again
Amazing video Bliss! Superb work❤
Amazing episode
i like this one alot bliss
Love your videos some much
Ugh I love your videos and the respect & joyful severity you give to fashion and art; keep doing what you're doing!
i don't want to embarrass myself by trying to name the runway shows lol, great video
Grace Jones as the thumbnail??? I’ve never clicked faster
edit: challenge accepted😎 (🖤 - personal fav)
0:00 - 0:04 :
1. Rick Owens SS23, look #6
6. Olivier Rousteing via Jean Paul Gautier FW22 Couture, look #33
12. Olivier Rousteing via Jean Paul Gautier FW22 Couture, look #43
16. Schiaparelli FW22 Couture, look #7
17. Louis Vuitton Womenswear SS23, look #1
21. Rick Owens Womenswear FW21, look #14 (🖤🖤)
25. Schiaparelli FW22 Couture, look #23
26. Jacquemus FW22, look #61
0:06 - Maison Margiela SS20, look #39
0:08 - Versace SS95, look #42
0:15 - Schiaparelli SS22 Couture, look #17
0:33 - Givenchy SS16, looks #1-3
0:34 - Alexander McQueen SS01, look #1
0:38 - Mugler SS21, look #34
0:43 - Olivier Rousteing via Jean Paul Gaultier FW22, look #26 (🖤)
0:47 - Area FW22, look #23 (shout out to Bliss’ latest Patreon vid cuz I never woulda got this one otherwise🙌🏽😩)
0:53 - Mugler FW95 Couture, opening looks (Laverne Cox recently wore one of these gorgeous ensembles to the Mugler exhibit in NYC; highly suggest taking a look at her IG to see the details!)
1:00 - Rick Owens SS22 Menswear, look #6
1:03 - Louis Vuitton FW21 Menswear, look #15 (🖤; highly rec Bliss’ vid on this collection!)
1:08 - Mugler FW95 Couture, look #44
4:10 - Yves Saint Laurent FW88, can find this at the 0:59 mark of Fashion Channel’s video of this runway show
7:02 - Mugler FW98/99, can be found at 25:47 on Fashion Channel’s video (🖤🖤🖤🖤)
11:22 - Alexander McQueen SS01, look #65 (🖤)
12:47 - Commes des Garçons SS23, look #12
12:50 - same as above, look #4
12:55 - same as above, look #7
12:58 - Commes des Garçons FW16, look #17
13:28 - Rick Owens FW21 Womenswear, look #36 (🖤)
14:43 - Rokh SS23, look #1 (🖤)
14:49 - Bottega Venetta SS23, look #52
14:51 - Botter FW22, look #15 (🖤🖤🖤; another wonderful vid by Bliss)
15:01 - Schiaparelli FW21, look #10
15:09 - Gucci SS23, looks #58 & 59
15:18 - Balmain SS23 (RTW section), look #4
16:24 (also #15 in intro quick montage!) - Bianca Saunders SS23, look #1 (me 🤝 Bliss waxing poetic about Bianca Saunders & her work)
Major anatomy nerd here just wanting to say that the “bump” referred to at 10:04 is called the acromioclavicular joint! It’s where our clavicle (the acromial end, or the lateral/side end of it) reaches around to touch the top part (acromion) of our shoulder blade (scapula) so that our arm is attached to our torso!
6:14 wish I could spend one day in New York in the 80’s. Just to see all or the different fashion
Wishing you a ton of views :)
Great video. I was there the first time in the 1980s. Hated the big shoulders then and still hate them now but it was really interesting listening to your history and analysis of this trend.
This INTRO though!!!!!
Whenever things get bad, pad out women's shoulders, so women will be taken seriously when they start fixing things. A high collar and neckline emphasizes the power that is needed.
This was super interesting! I usually don't pay much attention to shoulders since mine are nice and strong and I tend to have fit issues if I go with more structured ones, but it's definitely something I'm going to start paying more attention to now.
Gilbert Adrian is credited with putting shoulder pads on Barbara Stanwyck's costumes to balance her figure. Hollywood mythmaking has it that Stanwyck had the first shoulder pads on a dress in the 1930s.
Fantastic video. To me margiela made his shoulder like this to make the illusion that the shoulderline was small, in contrast of dior making the illusion of the waistline being small. It’s to this day the most beautiful shoulder ive ever seen
Banger
genuinely the best fashion video of 2022, 60 seconds in and you can just tell
how much effort was put into this project. top notch from the start
That means a ton to me, Marco 🙏🙏
Just wanted to say that jacket you're wearing is incredible
hi bliss foster
I learned so much on this one! Great research and education Bliss! Now let me start a New Years habit by participating in the discord…I’m already a Patreon, I need to focus in more on fashion knowledge and commit to replacing mindless scrolling with the things I love most!
I’m so glad you’re on there! That means a lot to me! And yea! Get on that discord! We were having a great talk today actually 🦾
Can you please start putting the references of the fashion shows or at least the designers ? It would be so helpful. I love your channel ! Thank you
You seem to forget claude montana in the 80s. He and mugler were like the 80s version of yohji and rei, or mcqueen and galliano,
i haven’t even watched the vid yet but just know that margiela shoulder is most inspiring (to me)
Shout out to the pleasing thumbnail
0:37 ann demeulemeester fall2020 spotted!
Sybrand is in the lead 🦾
Suits are the ooooooonly pieces of fashion worth it, ya'll can keep your ripped tshirts and apple bottom jeans
Yes, of cource strong shoulders are back!!!
(I can only afford thrifted blazers)
I’m about to get my first job(i’m 16) and i’m definitely using my money to join your patreon channel
you left out Claude Montana who was the pioneer of the power shoulder.
I don't know much about any of this so bear with me, but there is something that always bothered me about Armani, or rather how his suits are percieved.
I was always familiar with the giant shoulders thing as part of the power suit etc. and I definitely see how the design of Armani inspired that or how Armani even designed that.
HOWEVER, the late 70s, early 80s Armani menswear collections do not strike me as particularly "powerful" or "dominant".
Because of the almost scarf-like lapels sometimes, or very failling lapels, the broad shoulders that end up with a lot of fabric just flowing down, like in that "Images of Man" book, the first thing that comes to mind to me is "soft". It feels like a softening of the male figure, it becomes more like blanket you want to cosily roll into.
I feel a bit alone in that feeling however haha
GIVE ME SHOULDERS AND KISS PLATFORM BOOTS SO I CAN DIE ON THIS EARTH IN FASHION! lol ok that's major hyperbole. Love ya Bliss, Great job!
the suit in your Grace Jones thumbnail is an Armani suit Grace had tailored.
Speaking of power suit in the 80s, one designer should mention it as Mugler and Giorgio Armani is Claude Montana. Unfortunately, Claude Montana design wasn't like by US press. Poor Claude, After 3 years of Lanvin and he muse kill herself. He leaves Lanvin and addicted drugs and alcohol.
The amount of images is unbelievable! The research!!!!!
Does the shoulder promote gender-fluidity in clothes?
🙌🙌🙌
Bonjour Bliss,
Though I agree with you when it comes to the shoulder pads( I remember the trend very very well aka Dynasty ( the original series), I would say that when women started pants that this absolutly revolutionalised women's wardrobes and status in society.
It would be interesting for you to do a vlog on this. What brought women to start wearing pants? Fashion or something else...
Also bliss go pick and Willy chavarrias stuff. It's chicano style stuff but with a lot of ma and draping. You might like it and also Willy seems very nice.
MUGLEEER
Yay shoulders
what's the difference between an Edwardian Mutton sleeve and a contemporary designer roped sleeve? Also of note the context of designer clothing for women comes from couture - bespoke formalwear, whereas the context of designer clothing has changed
bliss how come u miss out claude montana -the lost legend?
Emm love that "speaking softly while carrying a big stick" bit 😆
Also you missed a trick by ignoring a true master of the shoulder, particularly the pagoda shoulder, Carol Christian Poell. His new shoulder is more severe and is exquisitely executed.
Amazing
Hello, can anyone recommend any books on shoulders, extension of armholes, waistline in relation to body?
Do you get kicked from the Discord if you cancel subscription
shoulder adjectives
First comment 💫💫
Adrian. Who copied someone else. His power suit was worn by Marlena, Joan, et. al.
Maybe the reason menswear is so slow to adopt elements of womenswear is society still looks to men to wear the metaphorical pants, Women, initially, wore pants and suits to signal them taking their place in the workforce and showing they can do everything a man can. For a man to wear lace or dainty outfits, it would signal that he is an object of desire and that's all he needs to be and I don't really see that happening in a major way. The idea of a man dressing seductively to the delight of women is a pretty new concept and what women tend to find sexy is usually tied to a man's capabilities (there's a reason every superhero movie has the shirtless man scene). Society still ties men's value to what they can provide and it hasn't opened the possibility that men can be "the prize"
There's a bit of mad shoulderplay in early Westwood that gets overlooked - the collections just after Pirate and Buffalo - while the 'brand' was still semi-subcultural rather than embedded in the fashion canon. Witches collection, also the armo(u)r jackets for men from around Time Machine era. These were the first pieces that Westwood designed in her own right, away from the partnership with McLaren.
Yall lucky I was too focused on the video I forgot to say first
haven’t watched yet but i better see the margiela cigarette shoulder in this
😬
I know that this has nothing to do with fashion but HOW DO YOU KEEP YOUR HAIR SO SHINNY? 🤣
bliss foster tries to get me into shoulders fetish
McQueen’s shoulders straight up looks like the DEVIL
YAY
join the patreon it’s legit worth it
How about a pro club dress idk. Willy chavarria get on that.
Can anybody ID the piece at 0:40 for me?
Olivier Rousting for JPG Couture 💫💫
@@BlissFoster Bless, Bliss
Imagina que estás tranquilo en tu casa y de la nada tu vecino grita ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
I live out in the middle of no where, they couldn’t hear me if I had a megaphone lmao
14:41 who is this model and what show is this?
Rokh SS23, I covered this show in my Paris fashion week video called “An Exclusive look at the best Paris Fashion Week Shows”. It’s an incredible brand, you should check it out 💫💫
Mathilda Gvarliani
Bliss u kept forgetting to mention the lost legend CLAUDE MONTANA?
Tell us about him! 🦾 how is he relevant to the video? 💫💫
👤
When fashion dudes talk menswear 🥴
😭
Yes spicy hot take werk
Feels like a nice opportunity for a video on "gendered" clothing and designers attempting gender neutral clothing.
agreed, male fashion is most of the time boring and the same in diffrent colors
@BlissFoster do you really think the suit is the most boring category of fashion?? What a horrible thing to say even in jest…
Talk about Balenciaga
Please please please don't do accents
Carti rolling loud
that comme on anna cleveland really is the height of mixing masc with fem! i love an unstructured shoulder on men and a structured shoulder on women. androgyny, svp
Wonderful analysis! I only wish you had more love for men's suits... 🥲
Haha I like it all 💫💫