Hot take: bernard arnault has been on the verge of crashing big name luxury brands for maybe the last 20 years. The reason luxury was luxury in the 90s was because it FELT untouchable. The prices were actually more accessible than they are today, but they FELT exclusive. Arnault popularised luxury goods to the point where they are now very saturated in the market, but at the same time lowered the quality of the goods. They are more costly and worse quality now than in the 80s or 90s. By over exposure and underdelivery of these brands is causing the brands to lose value to their initial customer and it's undoubted that that has started to come through to the mass market already. I think itll eventually see less and less sales until they change their focus to be away from never ending growth and aquiesce to just making quality goods again to stop cheapening the brands
You and youtuber are clueless on LVMH. Its arguable that LVMH has actually done more to preserve high fashion than anyone else and hence why they lead the market with their brands. Its not a coincidence. Fashion was cheapen by America. It was called Accessible Luxury and was pushed by social media. If you actually take a look, LVMH doesnt own an “accessible” luxury brand. No LVMH brand does discounting. Arnault is very clear that he believe luxury is for those who can afford high quality. Further, if you took time to actually look through, LVMH doesnt outsource its supplies. They own all the facilities that source their supplies and ingredients for their brands. They literally bought the manufacturer that supplies Tiffany’s just last week. This is for the specific purpose of meeting their quality standard and gives them full control over that. Both of you are clueless.
@@Philosific Sorry, but I think you may have misunderstood. The percieved accessibility of the brands comes from a cultural awareness of the brands and how many products are sold/seen in public. The prices, as I mentioned, are higher, so they are, in theory, less accessible, but yet they FEEL so much more. What he did was make the brands famous, he made them more for the average person than they were before. Today everyone wants to, and many people do, own a Louis Vuitton, or other, bag, whereas in the 80s it was something only those interested would invest in. What LVMH (and others, not just them) have done is make luxury *culturally* accessible, which reduces its exclusivity and therefore its perceived value to those who were the original customer. This is why brands like Roger Vivier and Loro Piana have also seen an increase in sales, because those original customers are unpersuaded by the fame of the big names now. In regards to them not outsourcing, you are half right, LVMH owns nearly all of their production line and really was a leader in that regard, but each individual business outsources to another to get what they need, a good example is that Thelios makes all the sunglasses for all the LVMH brands, so Louis Vuitton outsources sunglass production to Thelios. They all run independantly and charge each other for their services, so it is not done in house.
Speaking of the quality of luxury goods dwindlin in recent years, Arnault harassed a goup of french journalists for showing that lvm bags weren't produced in France like what they claim but they were fabricated in a factory in romania with low wage salaries.
So many bags now say "Made in China" that they are absolutely crazy to charge the prices they are. This is how brainwashed the consumers are in still buying their products. You can argue that they buy it simply because they can afford it, but when is enough enough?
By harassed do u mean blacklisted? I used to work in the industry, ppl kill over “get” gigs too. Killary Clinton isn’t the only one out their suiciding ppl.
Your comment about taking fashion as seriously as we take food, shelter, and water brings me to a point on the importance of fiber in clothing. Most people have no idea what their clothes are made of. A majority of clothing is made with harsh chemicals and plastic. It’s interesting that the same people who will refuse to eat anything nonorganic are willing to wear the furthest thing from organic. It demonstrates how differently we view clothes versus other essentials.
Your point about LVMH basically controlling the fashion media is so important. It upholds the brainwashing, for lack of a better word, that these brands have intrinsic value and are worth the high $$$. I hope that as we go into this recession, people care less about designer brands and consume less. I've been consuming fashion media (from magazines to the internet) since I was in elementary school, and I still am trying to unlearn some of these hyper-consumerist ideas we've all been fed.
Reading fashion articles wether in print or online lately has been just shopping lists! The covers are so incredibly boring now that with that and word salad that roughly describes the pieces briefly there's nothing of value anymore to take from it. It's incredibly tired everywhere I look! There is no more authors voice or personality. I miss looking forward to articles from particular journalists. There is no personality in runway, on paper, or even advertisement anymore.
unfortunately, there is for example China - full of people where brand so imprinted into the way of life- arguably perhaps due to lack of good education and critical thinking- young people idolise the actors and hooked on shows where these brands invest lots of money - which result in huge long queues in front of branded stores… I hear now stories where lots of young Chinese get themselves into huge debts and struggle to live without parents’ help ….how about the bloggers who ‘advertise’ the branded stuff and if they don’t have sponsors such as the appropriate wealthy ancestors or husbands - have side jobs (often murky - prostitution etc)
All these rich people who own these companies are satanic pedophiles. I've been seeing the pattern and it runs also throughout other industries like music, entertainment (hollywood), financial institutions, academia, adult entertainment, sports, etc. These people are pure evil and sick. Fashion is dead, along with hip-hop, and politics and so many other things. Life is getting so corupted with social media and technology. We need to go back to the simpler days.
Arnault destroyed and continues to destroy the brands in this space. His latest acquisition, Tiffany has already lost its heritage and heart. You can see it and feel it in their ad campaigns and stores.
Not only fashion but all makeup brands have been scooped up by Estee Lauder. Corporations kill all things cool, innovating and progressive. All we are left with is homogenized crap that is over priced with no style. All of these corporations are all interlinked and it is one huge circle jerk that removes any chance of true style!
Didn't Estee Lauder buy Tom Ford for 2.8 billion recently? I'm watching to see if they start merging lines or stay with identifiable distinction of brand lines? 💄
EL own many but not all cosmetics, there are still lots of indie brands that are more popular than ever and the quality is amazing. Many cosmetic companies, even indie brands can have their products made by Italian manufacturers, Hermes have recently launched their own brand, there are also a lot of brands owned by celebrities and celebrity make up artists. Estée Lauder do own a lot of the popular fragrances also, which would be the main reason they acquired TF, sadly. The quality will only diminish now, like everything else they have purchased.
@@SerenityChaos1975 This is very true. The lowered quality of high end and cosmetic counter brands are making it really difficult to make exclusivity and high pricing worth the purchase. Several of the indie brands are of good quality and is creatively branded. "Boutique" marketing like Sephora is popular for a reason. People still like "hands on" sales and marketing campaigns for cosmetics and fragrances though.
@@CogMarks youth dew was the original perfume? It was strong and (I believe) obnoxious? Very few others, I really didn't care for... the fragrance market is volatile (pun intended). Marc Jacobs, Ed Hardy, along with some of the original design houses like Chanel, had the best consistency in the fragrance lines.
His model is vertical integration to achieve economies of scale. When you bought a brand like Dior for example, you were buying the Craftsmanship of French artisans, who made the products in France by hand in ateliers, the European quality materials, the Dior know-how and history and the brand image. Now, you are just buying the brand image and nothing else. He buys independent houses, vertically integrates them (so that basically most of the products for all the brands just come from the same factories in Vietnam, he just slaps a different brand name on them), and creates economies of scale. It has made him rich but also destroyed everything that was good about these products. It was a huge opportunity that he spotted: ''China and new markets in the East are opening up. I can expand the product ranges by slapping the brand on lower quality products to make way more money. These brands are too small and dont have the capital to expand enough to scale to meet this demand. If i buy them up, i can just get rid of the costly French work shops with expensive French workers, make everything from the same factories in Asia and just put the brand names on the products accordingly, i'll increase profit margins AND take advantage of the huge markets opening up in China and the East, which are thirsty for these kind of products''. Yeah.
You summed it up perfectly. I feel like buying vintage is the way to go now. Most of the pieces coming out of these brands today are tacky anyway. I can't believe how well Gucci did with their awful looking clothing. Nouveau riche taste, yet was trendy enough to also influence old money to buy. It's like the whole world is hypnotized.
A lot of these brands are going to end up in the toilet, because the unlimited growth model absolutely necessitates a decrease in creative risk-taking, a reduction in the use of quality material, and reducing the cost of labor by utilizing a smaller, overworked, cheap labor force. You can only squeeze so hard before these conglomerates squeeze these brands dry until the illusion of luxury and art fades away to reveal a commodity that is unrecognizable from its origins. Case in point being Chanel increasing the costs of its handbags for example, while clients have grumbled that there’s been a noticeable drop in quality.
It’s wild Chanel had three price increases in 2021 when their quality continues to decrease. They are selling low quality imprecise machine made goods at Hermès handmade prices. A brand like Hermès has incredible handmade craftsmanship but clearly isn’t as big as Chanel as a brand. Chanel has become very commercial. Even their Haute Couture shows look commercial. People who always wanted the classic Chanel flap bad no longer want to buy it because of the low quality and increasing prices. It’s just not worth it.
it's funny too because now that they've gotten a large swathe of the market accustomed to paying higher premiums, they actually allow positions for competition to come in with an ACTUAL premium product, at the inflated cost required to make something with actual quality now being more accepted by customers. For me indie/cottage brands will always be more interesting.
That type of growth model is whats ruining the economy as a whole. The elite in charge are so detached from reality that they don't realize it's approaching the breaking point.
@@piscinaiv7937 I wholeheartedly agree with you. The only people still buying from these brands have no style or taste and rely solely on the name to make them feel good. It's horrible how low these houses have sunk.
I want to believe you but i don't. With current media and capitalism people consumers with no real interest in fashion will continue to support these brands
All these rich people who own these companies are satanic pedophiles. I've been seeing the pattern and it runs also throughout other industries like music, entertainment (hollywood), financial institutions, academia, adult entertainment, sports, etc. These people are pure evil and sick. Fashion is dead, along with hip-hop, and politics and so many other things. Life is getting so corupted with social media and technology. We need to go back to the simpler days.
luxury houses are just expensive fast fashion at the end of the day . thats why so many designers are leaving the big houses to start their own labels.
This is so interesting as someone who's rly into fashion and is a business student- fashion rly starts to feel so fake from the business perspective of branding to make more money.. i love the creativity and beauty, but trends cycles will keep going on and on wasting so much resources, and to make more money. Unfortunately most ppl in the creative side of fashion don't have the business knowledge to grow and keep companies succesful to the extent these business people do, and the result is this. I wish more people studied business theory just to understand how the biggest organizations in the world work.
I agree, from what I've heard from some fashion students, they are barely taught much business which I think is an absolute shame and really not setting them up for success. Art is hard as it is to be successful in.
Actually this big corporations (LVMH French fashion and Kerig the ones that own saint Laurent Balenciaga and Italian fashion etc)persecutes small new businesses... they have their ways to take them off the spot
Another excellent video bro! 🖤 One thing I’ve noticed in the past few years is hiker/sustainable fashion becoming an exploitative niche in fashion. I’m a huge Patagonia fan and always thought their stuff was semi expensive but justified because they’re using more sustainable methods to produce products, lifetime warranty, and extremely generous return policy. So then comes Nike and other larger brands who are charging more for their hiking/“sustainable” products. Which doesn’t make sense in my head because of all the outsourced working conditions we alway hear about them and the amount of product they flood the market with. No way are their methods more expensive with the amount of factories they own and business they get. But I’d be a hypocrite if I if I said I don’t own some of their pieces. 😔 I guess the difference being is that when I put on a Patagonia product on I never question if it will hold up to the elements…unlike Nike which is pure aesthetic.
@dafinkarnik counterpoint: Patagonia offers lifetime warranty and free repairs. That's what justifies Patagonia's high price for me. I also prefer Patagonia's more classic styles because I know I'll still be able to wear them 10 years out over Nike's overly trendy styles.
Buying secondhand/vintage fits my beliefs of sustainable fashion, conscious consumption, focus on quality of trends, and originality. Instead of playing the Hermès game or buying expensive LV bags, I found bags from Delvaux and Mark Cross (Belgian and US heritage from 1829 and 1865) for under $50 - 500 that still look perfect though they were made in 1980-1990. Such quality is rare and I can't wait to give them to my daughter in 20 years 😊
I have few leather bags of Belgian brand Mazarin. They’re are 10 years old already and I still have them, they’re unkillable 😂 I don’t see the point of buying super expensive bags rather than to impress people.
One thing I do like about this business model/arnault is that I believe it allows for Haute Couture to continue at most houses with a great budget even if it’s extremely unprofitable.
There are some seemingly positive aspects to the model for sure, you could also mention the LVMH prize for young fashion designers, although I personally feel like haute couture would still continue if the model changed and could even become more profitable if people are start valuing artisanal clothing again. Therefore, I don't feel like I can attribute haute couture as a positive benefit of this current business model but rather a tradition that these brands must uphold to keep their heritage.
I love this topic and cannot recommend reading "Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster" by Dana Thomas enough. It definitely dives into Bernard Arnault's exploits and the fashion+fragrance industry as a whole.
you speak the truth! Having worked for a few larger fashion conglomerates it's risky to have a youtube...and I had to make a choice to speak my mind and have a youtube or obey the company
if you want to see true over consumption to the point of debt, look at fragrance community. its downright sad, and there, people are persuaded to spend more easily
Really enjoyed your commentary on this topic! I was at the YSL museum in Marrakech a few weeks ago and being there made me remember why I fell in love with fashion as a teen - and why I fell out. There was this video showcasing the history of ysl and the stories behind the clothes and it was so touching - real art! And then it got to the current age and yeah... That's why I fell out. Feel the same way! New sub here :)
Is it a stretch to say this phenomenon has affected almost all consumable mediums of art? Tv, movies, music...everything seems increasingly bereft of real artistic expression. Instead, I feel there is just some checklist that is checked off by market analysis to produce things for massive consumption. You cannot have real art without taking artistic risk!
As a watch owner and enthusiast this really makes sense. LVMH owns Hublot and Tag watches and both brands have become overpriced and stale in their design language in the last 5 years. To the extent people in the watch community now openly mock people wearing them. Tag Heuer in particular has a fantastic heritage of motorsport in past collections to draw on and yet the latest big hype realise is a watch with Mario Cart pictures on it for £26,000. It’s shameful 😢
This is BRILLIANT! So well researched. So thoughtfully delivered. BRAVO! Make your next episode about Anna Wintour and her destruction of Fashion Magazines!
This was an almost impossibly good summary of why the fashion industry has been in decline for a few decades now. As someone who has worked in fashion and media for those decades, I have to congratulate you for doing such a fantastic job. Nailed it.
The reason why is called the "Vebel Effect" it goes against normal demand, as the desire for something grows the more expensive it is. "Luxury items" have this effect
Only thing I’ve ever liked Bernard for is helpin Galliano’s rise as a designer. His neoliberal model for the fashion industry has really made me sad tho, it’s kinda why my passion for fashion has been dyin a bit.
Keep your passion brodie. Dgaf about these conglomerates or industries. There’ll come a time when grassroot art/fashion has it’s place at the top. As time passes more and more people will be less inclined to buy from these weird ass soulless fashion houses.
This aspect makes the Japan or even Antwerp's way of doing fashion business are somewhat more interesting for me. Their work are not screaming greed or devalued the art form for profit sake.
Interesting Japanese fashion does come off very well made and made with substance, however Japan is a very consumerist society mainly because of how they sort of idolized the US post WW2 and their culture. Artistically made things can also be exploited unfortunately, I think limited quality does wonders when it comes to making things truly special.
@@fashionlover4 How is Japan any more consumerist than Europe or the US? If the Japanese were influenced by the Americans, shouldn’t Americans be more consumerist than the Japanese?
the thing you said about buying used bad garments at the end of the video is so true, for the last 2 years i have in my mind where i want to be in how i dress but ive been stuck in a loop of selling stuff i dont like anymore because my taste change, and then buying new stuff that i dont like again. i just bought some lanvin curbs and when they arrived i didnt even know why i bought them. the silhouette is cool but not effective at all if youre not trying to look like a hypebeast who wears tight lanvin text tshirts
Stop making choices like spending £500 on hype shoes and find a designer you love and spend that money you clearly have on runway pieces and runway pieces only. Problem solved
@@saul1491 Your " taste " isn't supposed to drastically life alteringly change every few months, if it does you're a victim of the micro trend cycle overconsumption effect the brands u buy from perpetuate. The more u spend on clothes the more u actually have to think about it. Most people don't think 4 times before buying a garment bc like OP said, you can "sell it on", everything is disposable apparently
@@saul1491 His taste didn't change lol, he subconsciously bought something with no character, based on trends, doesn't resonate with his self expression without thinking about it properly
Buy only second hand/thrift and dont spend hundreds on a piece. Hold only a limited amount of clothes and limit how many you can buy a year. Only buy things you think you need not want. I know the urge of wanting somthing really bad but if you just dont buy it you will forget it, because you lived life without it so why couldn you not do that now?
love your content & recs!! i have an interview with dior this week and i was already second guessing about working under such an enormous parent group… idk if i should take this vid as a sign lol
Best of luck, I understand that it's hard to exist without somewhat participating in the current system. Get insight, experience and contacts and maybe down the line you can join or start something you believe in more.
Mcqueen brought life, excitement, and moving art to fashion. No one wanted to go to other fashion shows. They all wanted front seats at McQueen's I am really suspicious about his death. Look at his brand now. Not the same. Another designer that rule the 80s died suspiciously as well.
I've covered photo and video of the New York Fashion Week runways from about 2004 through 2019 and I stumbled on your UA-cam Fashionlover 4 post and learned a lot of what I did not know. Thank you for letting the industry know what was going on behind the scenes. If you have time, please let me know what you think of my runway show videos. Over the years I have noticed changes. I posted them on UA-cam as an online archive and I am still working on it.
Thank you for making this, it’s so important. Also, I recommend the book “Deluxe: How Luxury Lost its Luster” by Dana Thomas, it’s really a good read on the same theme.
quickly becoming one of my favorite youtubers each and every video has been super thought provoking really helping me understand more than just the world of fashion
Bernard Arnault said that Apple isn’t a luxury brand. I think he’s just jealous that Apple has super high profit margins on their products. Profit margins only luxury brands like Hermés can pull off. There’s somewhat of a hasty and bitter aftertaste to his comment. He underestimates Apple’s luxury position, because Apple doesn’t shout luxury to people, and that’s by design; to not scare people away. Arnault’s products are dependent on being exclusive and expensive. Sell too much in the market and risk saturating the exclusivity of the brand. Apple can sell as many as they want without diluting its brand. Because the “luxury” experience is in its software user-experience. It’s not just the tangible product that is the “luxury” aspect. It is the access to the services and the infrastructure that Apple built. And the price of admission is $800 - $1000. You can’t make calls, browse the internet, and listen to music on a $1500 Neverfull tote bag.
Well done ! That’s a great summary of the events. To me, a question is : « Luxury Industry », contradiction in terms ? The only fashion brand that Arnault tried to create was Christian Lacroix, and it was a financial disaster. He also tried to be an entrepreneur in the internet in the late 90s and he lost 2 billions. The guy has no talent. He is purely a financial investor, he financed his acquisition of company shares through debts, and therefore he also has an extremely high level of personal debts. So it might not be that easy for his 5 children (from 2 different mothers btw, you can guess who on the family picture and imagine future tensions) when he will pass away and the debts will have to be paid. Marcel Boussac that you mentioned was also the richest man in France in the 50s, he even made the cover of Time Magazine but his Empire got ruined after his death because he had too many debts. So we will see. There was a book « How luxury lost its luster » published a few years ago about the lower quality in this industry. And HERMES went in the same trend after Mr Jean-Louis DUMAS passed away. I have family objects of the 1980s from luxury brands and I can tell you the level of quality is so bad now. And the worst is probably ..... Chanel. Yes, Chanel, and the extremely greedy Wertheimer brothers....
kering is the reason why hedi slimanes reign at saint laurent was cut short. selling off the the beauty line to l’oreal, cheapening the brand as well as never reestablishing the couture line at saint laurent were all reasons why hedi left. such a shame to see what could’ve been more fall apart so sudden.
My mum is a CEO, and so she is the ideal target consumer for these luxury houses, and even she said that these fashion brands are now so common that it's like shopping in " insert equivalant mid-price store in your hometown".
It is shocking to me when people are buying LVMH collabs and believe it is something woww They do zero research and have no idea that these collabs are selling tricks of LVMH
Arnault's business strategy is to create a fashion monopoly. He buys the competitors, thereby stifling the competition. Capitalist never like to compete. Some LVMH brands are clearly preferred, and get most of the company's resources allocated toward them, while others have their creativity held in abeyance.
I would hire you in a heart beat to work for our brand as an advisor! You are terrific, and a completely decent human being! Thank you again for this information breakdown.
I really appreciated this video and the time/research you took to make it. It's not important to me that everything you said is true in an absolute way, I more appreciate being pushed to think about this in a way I had not before. Thanks!
Great video - agree 100% with everything you’ve said. Have worked in fashion for about 30 years. Was very passionate about it from my teens in the 1980s onwards. Don’t think I would be now if I was a teenager; I find it a bit homogeneous if I’m honest. Almost too slick and perfect which can be boring. Ok, so we’re not gonna recreate the fashion world of the 70s through to the 90s BUT what everyone can do is buy from local independent designers and dressmakers. I’m sure there are hundreds of them in your area crying out for your support. You will get a unique garment and enjoy a more personal shopping experience.
very interesting video! Even though YSL is under another big conglomerate, I feel better that my first luxury purchase bears that brand's logo (it was a used bag) and is not under LVMH. actually, I remember when I started researching which bag to get, I saw/read a lot that said YSL has excellent quality bags and they were on the "cheaper" end of the prices. Obviously YSL was never unheard of, I have to say that in the few years since I've gotten my bag, their popularity has grown quite a bit and they're prices are really starting to rise. I'm absolutely NO expert, but I'm starting to feel like Dior is becoming the new Chanel (esp with the plethora of quality issues from Chanel's recent bags) and YSL is becoming the new LV (good quality for more accessible pricing).
I had to freeze frame it when you mentioned that he was going to pass the business down to his 5 children.. Just take a look at how they are dressed in that family portrait! How can you run all the fashion houses in the world and have suits that fit that badly and be dressed so boringly! We are in big trouble if these kids are the future of fashion!!
I think the new phase of fashion for men is going to be practical outerwear. I was shocked seeing the price of some pretty boring overcoats at Burberry that were stiff and unshapely.
I think you conclusion and recs is great. This is what I do, and I’m glad you mentioned it. But again, most consumers don’t want to do what we both believe. They want Gucci they are not fashion and art people
I wish I could express how incredible this video is. Considering all the topics you’ve touched, it’s amazing how articulate, concise and nuanced you’ve managed to keep this. Wonderful!!
i think an interesting point about the decline of genuine critical fashion journalism is really nicely countered through videos like your own, most of the information i have about fashion and brands is from youtube videos by people who aren't being paid to tell me anything besides why i should use squarespace or manscaped or whatever, like you'd never find a Frugal Aesthetic video, or anything of that sort, that had been sponsored by Luis Vuitton or something. So i think youtube and especially content like this is really one of the last bastions of proper fashion journalism, so keep up the good work :)
I don't fashion, I don't why people are so big into it, I don't get what people are looking at or seeing but I understand business and this video is brilliant because not only is it completely on point regarding business and marketing but it's really helped me to understand even just a little about what fashion is and why it's important. Great stuff.
Absolutely right. Glad I listened. I also decided to not pursue fashion. I’m an independent seamstress. However I think every industry is being run like this. I don’t understand people running after these logos in order for their prestige to somehow rub off … and giving these huge corporations much more money than they are worth. Just one comment is for you to choose a blank background or something a lot tidier, I almost disregarded your video due to my eyes bleeding j/k.
Sooo true. Still I really love the work that is done by designers at these big houses even these days but now that I've got a job and can occasionally afford a couple pieces, man I realized I get so much more joy out of learning to make my own items and working up to quality materials and purchasing goods made by independent sellers than this high fashion crap. Think about how much gorgeous material you can buy with the prices they charge for these things -- the upmark is not worth it. On another note it does make me sad how creating for yourself is so far far far lower than what fashion houses design. People who teach you how to craft, usually have no style at all. They don't even know what it is. -- You go look for patterns or tutorials or embroidery files and guess what it is? The ugliest, frumpiest people telling you how to make the ugliest frumpiest things from poodle and baby yoda fat cotton quarters. Come on! Why is there THAT much of a disconnect? I suppose they're still better than the LV neverfull dior scarf girls...
Oh yeah, and it's funny to me all these y'all semi-communist kids in the chat. The world is made of money. You're a cog in the money machine as well, just cause you spit a little of your disgust at suited businessmen trading the world away doesn't make you "above" it all. I agree it's bitter but it's not sunshine and rainbows in the 90s fashion world either even though it sure feels that way. There's nothing but conglomerates these days because independent designers don't need them anymore. The internet makes you free.
Great points! I've been there too and have just gone to making my own patterns but I know that all takes a lot of work. I would recommend modeliste studio for unique and well made patterns although they don't usually include the whole pattern just like an interesting sleeve, so you still have some work to do. In future, when I start up my own brand I had the idea of selling full patterns to the clothes for people to make them themselves.
It’s my understanding that Hermes is the only luxury brand because of the quality of materials, they only accept the best leathers, they grow their own silk and vetiver and their leather items are hand sewn using traditional saddlery techniques. The rest are fashion brands, you did say that at the end. 😊
Excellent information and well researched! But please slow down when you talk - your work is superb and deserves to be slowly absorbed. Thank you again!
For someone who doesn't know a thing about fashion your video was very informative, interesting and enjoyable! You have gained a subscriber! Keep up the great work!!
I currently go to fashion school and this entire topic along with seeing the likes of Raf Simmons leave his company and seeing how many designers that we all look up to go away over the years has genuinely really disheartened my interest in pursuing fashion as a whole I hope it gets better
I love fashion. My mom and dad were very fashionable people. My mom made a lot of her clothes. I sat by her side for hours as she made her clothes and draperies and other items on her sewing machine. She always had a Vogue pattern or McCalls pattern to cut and sew. She even made clothing for me. I love clothes. But I wear Westwood, JPG, RO, etc. I never wear Gucci or any of those types of brands. I realize what was happening to fashion and what it’s come to now. Your article was facts and on point. Thank you.
Totally agree. The other day I was shopping and I've noticed that the same brands I used to buy just have higher prices, bigger logos and lower quality. The lack of taste and quality is pandemic at the social media generation.
When the tshirt for brands like Givenchy and Gucci out priced their tailored shirts 3x retail price, I felt something weird was going on. When I worked for MJ over a decade ago, the owner told us that LV does not spend more than 99 cents on the materials for their product (bags included). Fashion seemingly has a Beanie Baby crisis where the value held in the item is completely sustained by the public’s perceived value of the item. I will give LVMH credit for investing in retail creative and showmanship by the boatload - which absolutely helps maintain the perception of product value. I have worked downstream with public brands for CEO’s who have no idea how fashion psychology and runway/retail experience effects the consumer. Those companies have tanked.
Thank you for this amazing information breakdown. With the Balenciaga scandal, this breaks down the industry for me in an easy to understand format. The flow charts have been incredibly helpful! From Ohio!
I really enjoyed your video and I didn't know how much Bernard Arnault had an bad effect on fashion. Im french and actually i was born in the same city as arnault did but its far different now from when bernard arnault was younger. This city (Roubaix) now is the poorest city in france because all the textile factories closed from the decision of lvmh and others. People lost their jobs and basically this city never got better economicaly.
Factories closing all over not only in textiles in France but most importantly Europe all traditional crafts ,lace ,buttons knitwear handbags and haberdashery ,garments etc all moved to Indonesia and China . A big loss to manufacturing which took an upturn after the war and now all those people have passed on .Which means no jobs any more only sweat shops .Any baton ; passed to the person who rescued and saved these companies from liquidation doesn't necessarily pass the finish line first
You are doing great! Thank you, lad. I once a high-end fashion goer, but since '16, I was just hitting rock bottom in being nostalgic to inventors and Avant-garde innovators I once read about in my early childhood times. But anyway, thank you. Let's talk more
Fascinating! I’m a designer but I’ve found zero inspiration by couturiers for over 15 years…..now I know why the lack of real creativity has been so prevalent. I have been getting inspiration from historic clothing in different cultures in the past, where real craftsmanship and personal artistry was the foundation of personal style
Make your own clothing! All you need is a sewing machine, fabric, threads, etc and paper to make a pattern .... I started with 12 to make my own things and became a seamstress. I worked 38 years in the textile industry. I still make most of my clothing myself!
Very interesting pov! Instant subscribe ❤️ I totally agree about product quality going down and prices going up especially for LV buy other brands too Thanks for sharing 💫
Thank you so much for the content you're putting out there ! I don't know much about fashion & I mainly consume mainstream media so it's really nice to have some critical point of view as well
Was high fashion different at all before though? Maybe the artist's intention has been to express themselves but for the consumer it has always been about the status it brings to them, i doubt the consumer cares or has cared at all about the artistic vision when buying the product.
Honestly it's not like the designers and workers actually get paid that much... and it takes so much time, knowledge and money to launch a whole brand especially with this current media scape that the ai makes it harder to do
Sure, however designers aren't taught much in terms of business skills either, they're not being set up to start and run their own businesses. AI if anything could be something that levels the playing field for smaller brands that can't afford to hire more workers at first.
Because of this influence, somebody is buying everything, my interest on labels is nearly vanished. I don‘t like it anymore to give my money to almost one person to make him more and possesive. Now these labels for me look cheap in a way… not special. Dagobert Duck Style…
I can spend the whole day watching your material. been a fashion designer since age 11. been a fashion designer en miami for the last 18, you have great point and I agree in most of you opinion. I eat fashion like my bday cake... thanks again.
This was good. I think the same way you do about fashion. Never been a fan of Gucci or LV etc. I’m really into new designers coming out of Paris and London like MilesGeorgeDaniels and Paolo Carzana. I do like balenciagia boots. I have followed fashion for years. Vivieen Westwood is in my top 5.
Dude! You’re one hell of a smart dude. I sincerely believe you can be or do whatever you want. You have the smarts. I don’t know how talented a designer you are or could be but from this vantage point journalism would be well served by your talents. You’re convincing in your argumentation. Authoritative without seeming cocky or overly opinionated. Well researched but deliver with a sense of conviction buoyed by a deep grasp of the subject matter. Your narrative had the ring of “truth.” Whilst I underhand that the matter is highly subjective, it nevertheless came across as something you deeply believe and thus came across as truthful. Genuine. Success with whatever you do in the end. You’ll be great at it. This I believe.
i don't know anything about fashion and it is not really my domain, but i can tell you that what you described is happening in every field of life, in every industry. Late stage capitalism basically, very few big companies controlling everything and extracting all value soullessly. We can even imagine that eventually one big company willrun the whole world, if we stay under the same economical system. Something like amazon is the prime example of that.
Really a great video, I learned a few things I didn't know about Arnault and LVMH. Agree 100% on how we need to be more aware about how these things are made and how we're being fed a lot of crap to get us to buy stuff.
15:28 I completely left fashion industry for several reasons, but exploitation and lack of creativity and meaning are some of them. Now, I work in the tech industry and work with companies which have products which have a positive impact on the world in my opinion like an app helping MS patients. I am so much more happier, but sometimes, I miss fashion.
I met him on a beach in Spain once. He was carrying a suitcase of socks, sunglasses etc and kept trying to sell me them. Got to admire the hustle even if he was annoying
I'm completely uncreative but I defo noticed that conglomerates have destroyed the differences and risk taking in many creative fields, for example Disney with TV/movies
Interesting that it is even legal to have such a monopoly. There are several examples in history where companies where forced to split up. One of the most famous examples was the Standard oil by Rockefeller, which was forced to split in 1911. I work as designer in the watch industry where there exist several big groups, where LVMH is one of them. It is sad to see many of the family companies loose control and taken over by groups. I feel the creativity within the companies changes significantly and the identity becomes empty
Regardless of his background or education, Arnault remains the exemplar par excellence of someone who is only interested in himself and his net worth. He would not be able to design his way out of a doghouse.
You are adorable plus this content was very interesting I don't buy labels like that but I like seeing the evolution of fashion. Thank you for teaching me some stuff today!
You have beautiful thoughts. Love that you share your thoughts. You speak about thing I’ve been feeling for a long long time. Big hug from me and a big thanks you for your content
Constantly pushing so hard on the accelerator of ever higher prices, reduced quality, and psychological manipulation to try and sell it all is making folks wake up.
Hot take: bernard arnault has been on the verge of crashing big name luxury brands for maybe the last 20 years. The reason luxury was luxury in the 90s was because it FELT untouchable. The prices were actually more accessible than they are today, but they FELT exclusive. Arnault popularised luxury goods to the point where they are now very saturated in the market, but at the same time lowered the quality of the goods. They are more costly and worse quality now than in the 80s or 90s. By over exposure and underdelivery of these brands is causing the brands to lose value to their initial customer and it's undoubted that that has started to come through to the mass market already. I think itll eventually see less and less sales until they change their focus to be away from never ending growth and aquiesce to just making quality goods again to stop cheapening the brands
Good take tbh
You and youtuber are clueless on LVMH. Its arguable that LVMH has actually done more to preserve high fashion than anyone else and hence why they lead the market with their brands. Its not a coincidence.
Fashion was cheapen by America. It was called Accessible Luxury and was pushed by social media. If you actually take a look, LVMH doesnt own an “accessible” luxury brand. No LVMH brand does discounting. Arnault is very clear that he believe luxury is for those who can afford high quality. Further, if you took time to actually look through, LVMH doesnt outsource its supplies. They own all the facilities that source their supplies and ingredients for their brands. They literally bought the manufacturer that supplies Tiffany’s just last week. This is for the specific purpose of meeting their quality standard and gives them full control over that.
Both of you are clueless.
@@Philosific Sorry, but I think you may have misunderstood. The percieved accessibility of the brands comes from a cultural awareness of the brands and how many products are sold/seen in public. The prices, as I mentioned, are higher, so they are, in theory, less accessible, but yet they FEEL so much more. What he did was make the brands famous, he made them more for the average person than they were before. Today everyone wants to, and many people do, own a Louis Vuitton, or other, bag, whereas in the 80s it was something only those interested would invest in. What LVMH (and others, not just them) have done is make luxury *culturally* accessible, which reduces its exclusivity and therefore its perceived value to those who were the original customer. This is why brands like Roger Vivier and Loro Piana have also seen an increase in sales, because those original customers are unpersuaded by the fame of the big names now.
In regards to them not outsourcing, you are half right, LVMH owns nearly all of their production line and really was a leader in that regard, but each individual business outsources to another to get what they need, a good example is that Thelios makes all the sunglasses for all the LVMH brands, so Louis Vuitton outsources sunglass production to Thelios. They all run independantly and charge each other for their services, so it is not done in house.
@@Philosific”no LVMH brand does discounting”… Calvin Klein ???
@Finesso the irony. We got nothing in Australia rn. Even dion lee is based in NYC. Gots to show some love for whatever we got left in Australia
Speaking of the quality of luxury goods dwindlin in recent years, Arnault harassed a goup of french journalists for showing that lvm bags weren't produced in France like what they claim but they were fabricated in a factory in romania with low wage salaries.
I agree
And the materials made in China...
So many bags now say "Made in China" that they are absolutely crazy to charge the prices they are. This is how brainwashed the consumers are in still buying their products. You can argue that they buy it simply because they can afford it, but when is enough enough?
By harassed do u mean blacklisted? I used to work in the industry, ppl kill over “get” gigs too. Killary Clinton isn’t the only one out their suiciding ppl.
Your comment about taking fashion as seriously as we take food, shelter, and water brings me to a point on the importance of fiber in clothing. Most people have no idea what their clothes are made of. A majority of clothing is made with harsh chemicals and plastic. It’s interesting that the same people who will refuse to eat anything nonorganic are willing to wear the furthest thing from organic. It demonstrates how differently we view clothes versus other essentials.
Molly Mae
Not even clothes, everything. Limited time and money make humans go coocoo which is why we're in such a shxtter nowadays
read Walden he touches on this in the book
I’ve only worn natural fibers.
This comment made me think… you’re absolutely right.
Your point about LVMH basically controlling the fashion media is so important. It upholds the brainwashing, for lack of a better word, that these brands have intrinsic value and are worth the high $$$. I hope that as we go into this recession, people care less about designer brands and consume less. I've been consuming fashion media (from magazines to the internet) since I was in elementary school, and I still am trying to unlearn some of these hyper-consumerist ideas we've all been fed.
❤️☺️
Pure Mk ultred
Reading fashion articles wether in print or online lately has been just shopping lists! The covers are so incredibly boring now that with that and word salad that roughly describes the pieces briefly there's nothing of value anymore to take from it. It's incredibly tired everywhere I look! There is no more authors voice or personality. I miss looking forward to articles from particular journalists. There is no personality in runway, on paper, or even advertisement anymore.
unfortunately, there is for example China - full of people where brand so imprinted into the way of life- arguably perhaps due to lack of good education and critical thinking- young people idolise the actors and hooked on shows where these brands invest lots of money - which result in huge long queues in front of branded stores… I hear now stories where lots of young Chinese get themselves into huge debts and struggle to live without parents’ help ….how about the bloggers who ‘advertise’ the branded stuff and if they don’t have sponsors such as the appropriate wealthy ancestors or husbands - have side jobs (often murky - prostitution etc)
All these rich people who own these companies are satanic pedophiles. I've been seeing the pattern and it runs also throughout other industries like music, entertainment (hollywood), financial institutions, academia, adult entertainment, sports, etc. These people are pure evil and sick. Fashion is dead, along with hip-hop, and politics and so many other things. Life is getting so corupted with social media and technology. We need to go back to the simpler days.
Arnault destroyed and continues to destroy the brands in this space. His latest acquisition, Tiffany has already lost its heritage and heart. You can see it and feel it in their ad campaigns and stores.
Yes i agree! Whoever thought jay z and Beyonce should be in Tiffany ad needs to be fired!
gatekeepers are funny
I’m looking forward to the next trophy Tiffany decides to ruin!
Tiffany is granny brand anyway
@@michaelbruno1330why shouldn’t JayZ and Beyoncé be in the ads? I’d like to understand what you’re trying to say.
Not only fashion but all makeup brands have been scooped up by Estee Lauder. Corporations kill all things cool, innovating and progressive. All we are left with is homogenized crap that is over priced with no style. All of these corporations are all interlinked and it is one huge circle jerk that removes any chance of true style!
Didn't Estee Lauder buy Tom Ford for 2.8 billion recently? I'm watching to see if they start merging lines or stay with identifiable distinction of brand lines? 💄
EL own many but not all cosmetics, there are still lots of indie brands that are more popular than ever and the quality is amazing. Many cosmetic companies, even indie brands can have their products made by Italian manufacturers, Hermes have recently launched their own brand, there are also a lot of brands owned by celebrities and celebrity make up artists. Estée Lauder do own a lot of the popular fragrances also, which would be the main reason they acquired TF, sadly. The quality will only diminish now, like everything else they have purchased.
@@SerenityChaos1975 This is very true. The lowered quality of high end and cosmetic counter brands are making it really difficult to make exclusivity and high pricing worth the purchase.
Several of the indie brands are of good quality and is creatively branded.
"Boutique" marketing like Sephora is popular for a reason. People still like "hands on" sales and marketing campaigns for cosmetics and fragrances though.
Estée Lauder reformulates the fragrances it buys. They generally come off as being watered down.
@@CogMarks youth dew was the original perfume? It was strong and (I believe) obnoxious? Very few others, I really didn't care for... the fragrance market is volatile (pun intended).
Marc Jacobs, Ed Hardy, along with some of the original design houses like Chanel, had the best consistency in the fragrance lines.
His model is vertical integration to achieve economies of scale. When you bought a brand like Dior for example, you were buying the Craftsmanship of French artisans, who made the products in France by hand in ateliers, the European quality materials, the Dior know-how and history and the brand image. Now, you are just buying the brand image and nothing else. He buys independent houses, vertically integrates them (so that basically most of the products for all the brands just come from the same factories in Vietnam, he just slaps a different brand name on them), and creates economies of scale. It has made him rich but also destroyed everything that was good about these products. It was a huge opportunity that he spotted: ''China and new markets in the East are opening up. I can expand the product ranges by slapping the brand on lower quality products to make way more money. These brands are too small and dont have the capital to expand enough to scale to meet this demand. If i buy them up, i can just get rid of the costly French work shops with expensive French workers, make everything from the same factories in Asia and just put the brand names on the products accordingly, i'll increase profit margins AND take advantage of the huge markets opening up in China and the East, which are thirsty for these kind of products''. Yeah.
You summed it up perfectly. I feel like buying vintage is the way to go now. Most of the pieces coming out of these brands today are tacky anyway. I can't believe how well Gucci did with their awful looking clothing. Nouveau riche taste, yet was trendy enough to also influence old money to buy. It's like the whole world is hypnotized.
A lot of these brands are going to end up in the toilet, because the unlimited growth model absolutely necessitates a decrease in creative risk-taking, a reduction in the use of quality material, and reducing the cost of labor by utilizing a smaller, overworked, cheap labor force. You can only squeeze so hard before these conglomerates squeeze these brands dry until the illusion of luxury and art fades away to reveal a commodity that is unrecognizable from its origins.
Case in point being Chanel increasing the costs of its handbags for example, while clients have grumbled that there’s been a noticeable drop in quality.
It’s wild Chanel had three price increases in 2021 when their quality continues to decrease. They are selling low quality imprecise machine made goods at Hermès handmade prices. A brand like Hermès has incredible handmade craftsmanship but clearly isn’t as big as Chanel as a brand. Chanel has become very commercial. Even their Haute Couture shows look commercial. People who always wanted the classic Chanel flap bad no longer want to buy it because of the low quality and increasing prices. It’s just not worth it.
it's funny too because now that they've gotten a large swathe of the market accustomed to paying higher premiums, they actually allow positions for competition to come in with an ACTUAL premium product, at the inflated cost required to make something with actual quality now being more accepted by customers. For me indie/cottage brands will always be more interesting.
That type of growth model is whats ruining the economy as a whole. The elite in charge are so detached from reality that they don't realize it's approaching the breaking point.
@@piscinaiv7937 I wholeheartedly agree with you. The only people still buying from these brands have no style or taste and rely solely on the name to make them feel good. It's horrible how low these houses have sunk.
I want to believe you but i don't. With current media and capitalism people consumers with no real interest in fashion will continue to support these brands
The last point is so good. Don’t just consume social media and media. Read books. Make up your own world, not just what tiktok and yt people say.
Idk some youtube people like this one are pretty good
This yt person is here to tell you to go take a flying leap
All these rich people who own these companies are satanic pedophiles. I've been seeing the pattern and it runs also throughout other industries like music, entertainment (hollywood), financial institutions, academia, adult entertainment, sports, etc. These people are pure evil and sick. Fashion is dead, along with hip-hop, and politics and so many other things. Life is getting so corupted with social media and technology. We need to go back to the simpler days.
Forgot fashions
😂😂 sweet summer child. Books are no panacea and can only take you so far!
luxury houses are just expensive fast fashion at the end of the day . thats why so many designers are leaving the big houses to start their own labels.
This is so interesting as someone who's rly into fashion and is a business student- fashion rly starts to feel so fake from the business perspective of branding to make more money.. i love the creativity and beauty, but trends cycles will keep going on and on wasting so much resources, and to make more money. Unfortunately most ppl in the creative side of fashion don't have the business knowledge to grow and keep companies succesful to the extent these business people do, and the result is this. I wish more people studied business theory just to understand how the biggest organizations in the world work.
I agree, from what I've heard from some fashion students, they are barely taught much business which I think is an absolute shame and really not setting them up for success. Art is hard as it is to be successful in.
Actually this big corporations (LVMH French fashion and Kerig the ones that own saint Laurent Balenciaga and Italian fashion etc)persecutes small new businesses... they have their ways to take them off the spot
@@hiwelcometochillis2579almost like big sharks devouring small 🐟
Another excellent video bro! 🖤
One thing I’ve noticed in the past few years is hiker/sustainable fashion becoming an exploitative niche in fashion. I’m a huge Patagonia fan and always thought their stuff was semi expensive but justified because they’re using more sustainable methods to produce products, lifetime warranty, and extremely generous return policy. So then comes Nike and other larger brands who are charging more for their hiking/“sustainable” products. Which doesn’t make sense in my head because of all the outsourced working conditions we alway hear about them and the amount of product they flood the market with. No way are their methods more expensive with the amount of factories they own and business they get. But I’d be a hypocrite if I if I said I don’t own some of their pieces. 😔
I guess the difference being is that when I put on a Patagonia product on I never question if it will hold up to the elements…unlike Nike which is pure aesthetic.
@dafinkarnik counterpoint: Patagonia offers lifetime warranty and free repairs. That's what justifies Patagonia's high price for me. I also prefer Patagonia's more classic styles because I know I'll still be able to wear them 10 years out over Nike's overly trendy styles.
Buying secondhand/vintage fits my beliefs of sustainable fashion, conscious consumption, focus on quality of trends, and originality. Instead of playing the Hermès game or buying expensive LV bags, I found bags from Delvaux and Mark Cross (Belgian and US heritage from 1829 and 1865) for under $50 - 500 that still look perfect though they were made in 1980-1990. Such quality is rare and I can't wait to give them to my daughter in 20 years 😊
I have few leather bags of Belgian brand Mazarin. They’re are 10 years old already and I still have them, they’re unkillable 😂 I don’t see the point of buying super expensive bags rather than to impress people.
One thing I do like about this business model/arnault is that I believe it allows for Haute Couture to continue at most houses with a great budget even if it’s extremely unprofitable.
There are some seemingly positive aspects to the model for sure, you could also mention the LVMH prize for young fashion designers, although I personally feel like haute couture would still continue if the model changed and could even become more profitable if people are start valuing artisanal clothing again. Therefore, I don't feel like I can attribute haute couture as a positive benefit of this current business model but rather a tradition that these brands must uphold to keep their heritage.
I love this topic and cannot recommend reading "Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster" by Dana Thomas enough. It definitely dives into Bernard Arnault's exploits and the fashion+fragrance industry as a whole.
you speak the truth! Having worked for a few larger fashion conglomerates it's risky to have a youtube...and I had to make a choice to speak my mind and have a youtube or obey the company
I love this guys view point. Over consumption isn’t cool honestly enjoying art or falling in love with the things you already own
if you want to see true over consumption to the point of debt, look at fragrance community. its downright sad, and there, people are persuaded to spend more easily
Really enjoyed your commentary on this topic! I was at the YSL museum in Marrakech a few weeks ago and being there made me remember why I fell in love with fashion as a teen - and why I fell out. There was this video showcasing the history of ysl and the stories behind the clothes and it was so touching - real art! And then it got to the current age and yeah... That's why I fell out. Feel the same way! New sub here :)
Is it a stretch to say this phenomenon has affected almost all consumable mediums of art? Tv, movies, music...everything seems increasingly bereft of real artistic expression. Instead, I feel there is just some checklist that is checked off by market analysis to produce things for massive consumption. You cannot have real art without taking artistic risk!
As a watch owner and enthusiast this really makes sense. LVMH owns Hublot and Tag watches and both brands have become overpriced and stale in their design language in the last 5 years. To the extent people in the watch community now openly mock people wearing them. Tag Heuer in particular has a fantastic heritage of motorsport in past collections to draw on and yet the latest big hype realise is a watch with Mario Cart pictures on it for £26,000. It’s shameful 😢
That is so true! Highly agree with that😢
Wow, that is embarrassing 😳
This is BRILLIANT! So well researched. So thoughtfully delivered. BRAVO! Make your next episode about Anna Wintour and her destruction of Fashion Magazines!
Second this! Speak about this blight!
This was an almost impossibly good summary of why the fashion industry has been in decline for a few decades now. As someone who has worked in fashion and media for those decades, I have to congratulate you for doing such a fantastic job. Nailed it.
The reason why is called the "Vebel Effect" it goes against normal demand, as the desire for something grows the more expensive it is. "Luxury items" have this effect
Only thing I’ve ever liked Bernard for is helpin Galliano’s rise as a designer. His neoliberal model for the fashion industry has really made me sad tho, it’s kinda why my passion for fashion has been dyin a bit.
Great video also and I haven’t even finished it.
Keep your passion brodie. Dgaf about these conglomerates or industries. There’ll come a time when grassroot art/fashion has it’s place at the top. As time passes more and more people will be less inclined to buy from these weird ass soulless fashion houses.
Yes and they still own John Gallianos name. I wish John would leave Margiela and LVMH gave John his label again. Can you imagine!!
@@User61918 truth in this
@@jonnyfendi2003 actually they sold the Galliano label a while ago
This aspect makes the Japan or even Antwerp's way of doing fashion business are somewhat more interesting for me. Their work are not screaming greed or devalued the art form for profit sake.
Interesting Japanese fashion does come off very well made and made with substance, however Japan is a very consumerist society mainly because of how they sort of idolized the US post WW2 and their culture. Artistically made things can also be exploited unfortunately, I think limited quality does wonders when it comes to making things truly special.
@@fashionlover4 How is Japan any more consumerist than Europe or the US?
If the Japanese were influenced by the Americans, shouldn’t Americans be more consumerist than the Japanese?
@@MisterWebb he never said it was.
the thing you said about buying used bad garments at the end of the video is so true, for the last 2 years i have in my mind where i want to be in how i dress but ive been stuck in a loop of selling stuff i dont like anymore because my taste change, and then buying new stuff that i dont like again. i just bought some lanvin curbs and when they arrived i didnt even know why i bought them. the silhouette is cool but not effective at all if youre not trying to look like a hypebeast who wears tight lanvin text tshirts
Stop making choices like spending £500 on hype shoes and find a designer you love and spend that money you clearly have on runway pieces and runway pieces only. Problem solved
@@fiftyclown buying only runway doesn’t mean your tastes don’t change. your tastes do change.
@@saul1491 Your " taste " isn't supposed to drastically life alteringly change every few months, if it does you're a victim of the micro trend cycle overconsumption effect the brands u buy from perpetuate. The more u spend on clothes the more u actually have to think about it. Most people don't think 4 times before buying a garment bc like OP said, you can "sell it on", everything is disposable apparently
@@saul1491 His taste didn't change lol, he subconsciously bought something with no character, based on trends, doesn't resonate with his self expression without thinking about it properly
Buy only second hand/thrift and dont spend hundreds on a piece. Hold only a limited amount of clothes and limit how many you can buy a year. Only buy things you think you need not want. I know the urge of wanting somthing really bad but if you just dont buy it you will forget it, because you lived life without it so why couldn you not do that now?
love your content & recs!! i have an interview with dior this week and i was already second guessing about working under such an enormous parent group… idk if i should take this vid as a sign lol
Gain insight ND grow ur ting maybe
@@him4690 ty! maybe you’re onto smth……😳💪🏼
go for it i reckon. it’s an interview, and it would surely be cool to see how it’s run. you can’t exist without indulging in the system
@@saul1491 dude you’re right! reading your comment helped me realize my career path a bit better :)
Best of luck, I understand that it's hard to exist without somewhat participating in the current system. Get insight, experience and contacts and maybe down the line you can join or start something you believe in more.
Mcqueen brought life, excitement, and moving art to fashion. No one wanted to go to other fashion shows. They all wanted front seats at McQueen's I am really suspicious about his death. Look at his brand now. Not the same. Another designer that rule the 80s died suspiciously as well.
I've covered photo and video of the New York Fashion Week runways from about 2004 through 2019 and I stumbled on your UA-cam Fashionlover 4 post and learned a lot of what I did not know. Thank you for letting the industry know what was going on behind the scenes. If you have time, please let me know what you think of my runway show videos. Over the years I have noticed changes. I posted them on UA-cam as an online archive and I am still working on it.
Thank you for making this, it’s so important. Also, I recommend the book “Deluxe: How Luxury Lost its Luster” by Dana Thomas, it’s really a good read on the same theme.
quickly becoming one of my favorite youtubers each and every video has been super thought provoking really helping me understand more than just the world of fashion
Thank you! gonna try do more videos that relate fashion to the rest of the world and other topics!
Bernard Arnault said that Apple isn’t a luxury brand.
I think he’s just jealous that Apple has super high profit margins on their products. Profit margins only luxury brands like Hermés can pull off.
There’s somewhat of a hasty and bitter aftertaste to his comment. He underestimates Apple’s luxury position, because Apple doesn’t shout luxury to people, and that’s by design; to not scare people away. Arnault’s products are dependent on being exclusive and expensive. Sell too much in the market and risk saturating the exclusivity of the brand. Apple can sell as many as they want without diluting its brand. Because the “luxury” experience is in its software user-experience. It’s not just the tangible product that is the “luxury” aspect. It is the access to the services and the infrastructure that Apple built. And the price of admission is $800 - $1000. You can’t make calls, browse the internet, and listen to music on a $1500 Neverfull tote bag.
Well done ! That’s a great summary of the events. To me, a question is : « Luxury Industry », contradiction in terms ?
The only fashion brand that Arnault tried to create was Christian Lacroix, and it was a financial disaster. He also tried to be an entrepreneur in the internet in the late 90s and he lost 2 billions.
The guy has no talent. He is purely a financial investor, he financed his acquisition of company shares through debts, and therefore he also has an extremely high level of personal debts. So it might not be that easy for his 5 children (from 2 different mothers btw, you can guess who on the family picture and imagine future tensions) when he will pass away and the debts will have to be paid.
Marcel Boussac that you mentioned was also the richest man in France in the 50s, he even made the cover of Time Magazine but his Empire got ruined after his death because he had too many debts. So we will see.
There was a book « How luxury lost its luster » published a few years ago about the lower quality in this industry. And HERMES went in the same trend after Mr Jean-Louis DUMAS passed away. I have family objects of the 1980s from luxury brands and I can tell you the level of quality is so bad now. And the worst is probably ..... Chanel. Yes, Chanel, and the extremely greedy Wertheimer brothers....
Every family has that one person who will break the family's financial struggle, I hope you become the one 😊
Obviously trading in bitcoin is very volatile and risky to trade that's the reason most traders trade with a company
Now is the best time to purchase and invest in Bitcoin stop procrastinating
That's very impressive are you giving her your money or does it stays in your trading account? What's really the idea behind the copying trades?
"if you don't find a way to make money while you sleep you will have to work hard until you old".
This is not the first time I'm hearing about Catherine Woods and her trading exploits but I have no idea how to reach her
kering is the reason why hedi slimanes reign at saint laurent was cut short. selling off the the beauty line to l’oreal, cheapening the brand as well as never reestablishing the couture line at saint laurent were all reasons why hedi left. such a shame to see what could’ve been more fall apart so sudden.
My mum is a CEO, and so she is the ideal target consumer for these luxury houses, and even she said that these fashion brands are now so common that it's like shopping in " insert equivalant mid-price store in your hometown".
"It was only a small business of 1,000 people" How incredibly out of touch
We’re headed for cyberpunk dystopia aren’t we?
It is shocking to me when people are buying LVMH collabs and believe it is something woww
They do zero research and have no idea that these collabs are selling tricks of LVMH
Arnault's business strategy is to create a fashion monopoly. He buys the competitors, thereby stifling the competition. Capitalist never like to compete. Some LVMH brands are clearly preferred, and get most of the company's resources allocated toward them, while others have their creativity held in abeyance.
I would hire you in a heart beat to work for our brand as an advisor! You are terrific, and a completely decent human being! Thank you again for this information breakdown.
I'm curious about the relationship of the top brands in the fashion and the Natzis. There's a lot of dark money that runs through it all.
You gotta do one on Francois Pinault as well. He too owns a lot of fashion brands too.
Yes, please on one on him also.
Yes please
Thank you for reminding me why I didn't purdue a career as a patternmaker in the _fashion_ industry!
I really appreciated this video and the time/research you took to make it. It's not important to me that everything you said is true in an absolute way, I more appreciate being pushed to think about this in a way I had not before. Thanks!
Great video - agree 100% with everything you’ve said. Have worked in fashion for about 30 years. Was very passionate about it from my teens in the 1980s onwards. Don’t think I would be now if I was a teenager; I find it a bit homogeneous if I’m honest. Almost too slick and perfect which can be boring.
Ok, so we’re not gonna recreate the fashion world of the 70s through to the 90s BUT what everyone can do is buy from local independent designers and dressmakers. I’m sure there are hundreds of them in your area crying out for your support. You will get a unique garment and enjoy a more personal shopping experience.
Impressive video, I didn't expect it to be as deep and well-researched as it turned out - thank you, and keep it up!
very interesting video!
Even though YSL is under another big conglomerate, I feel better that my first luxury purchase bears that brand's logo (it was a used bag) and is not under LVMH. actually, I remember when I started researching which bag to get, I saw/read a lot that said YSL has excellent quality bags and they were on the "cheaper" end of the prices. Obviously YSL was never unheard of, I have to say that in the few years since I've gotten my bag, their popularity has grown quite a bit and they're prices are really starting to rise. I'm absolutely NO expert, but I'm starting to feel like Dior is becoming the new Chanel (esp with the plethora of quality issues from Chanel's recent bags) and YSL is becoming the new LV (good quality for more accessible pricing).
@Fashionlover004 um...ok?
I had to freeze frame it when you mentioned that he was going to pass the business down to his 5 children.. Just take a look at how they are dressed in that family portrait! How can you run all the fashion houses in the world and have suits that fit that badly and be dressed so boringly! We are in big trouble if these kids are the future of fashion!!
My thought exactly!
I love your honesty! I hope you have the opportunity to make a huge splash in fashion journalism.
I think the new phase of fashion for men is going to be practical outerwear. I was shocked seeing the price of some pretty boring overcoats at Burberry that were stiff and unshapely.
I think you conclusion and recs is great. This is what I do, and I’m glad you mentioned it. But again, most consumers don’t want to do what we both believe. They want Gucci they are not fashion and art people
I wish I could express how incredible this video is. Considering all the topics you’ve touched, it’s amazing how articulate, concise and nuanced you’ve managed to keep this. Wonderful!!
i think an interesting point about the decline of genuine critical fashion journalism is really nicely countered through videos like your own, most of the information i have about fashion and brands is from youtube videos by people who aren't being paid to tell me anything besides why i should use squarespace or manscaped or whatever, like you'd never find a Frugal Aesthetic video, or anything of that sort, that had been sponsored by Luis Vuitton or something. So i think youtube and especially content like this is really one of the last bastions of proper fashion journalism, so keep up the good work :)
I don't fashion, I don't why people are so big into it, I don't get what people are looking at or seeing but I understand business and this video is brilliant because not only is it completely on point regarding business and marketing but it's really helped me to understand even just a little about what fashion is and why it's important. Great stuff.
Absolutely right. Glad I listened. I also decided to not pursue fashion. I’m an independent seamstress. However I think every industry is being run like this. I don’t understand people running after these logos in order for their prestige to somehow rub off … and giving these huge corporations much more money than they are worth. Just one comment is for you to choose a blank background or something a lot tidier, I almost disregarded your video due to my eyes bleeding j/k.
Sooo true. Still I really love the work that is done by designers at these big houses even these days but now that I've got a job and can occasionally afford a couple pieces, man I realized I get so much more joy out of learning to make my own items and working up to quality materials and purchasing goods made by independent sellers than this high fashion crap. Think about how much gorgeous material you can buy with the prices they charge for these things -- the upmark is not worth it.
On another note it does make me sad how creating for yourself is so far far far lower than what fashion houses design. People who teach you how to craft, usually have no style at all. They don't even know what it is. -- You go look for patterns or tutorials or embroidery files and guess what it is? The ugliest, frumpiest people telling you how to make the ugliest frumpiest things from poodle and baby yoda fat cotton quarters. Come on! Why is there THAT much of a disconnect? I suppose they're still better than the LV neverfull dior scarf girls...
Oh yeah, and it's funny to me all these y'all semi-communist kids in the chat. The world is made of money. You're a cog in the money machine as well, just cause you spit a little of your disgust at suited businessmen trading the world away doesn't make you "above" it all. I agree it's bitter but it's not sunshine and rainbows in the 90s fashion world either even though it sure feels that way. There's nothing but conglomerates these days because independent designers don't need them anymore. The internet makes you free.
Yes preach !!
Great points! I've been there too and have just gone to making my own patterns but I know that all takes a lot of work. I would recommend modeliste studio for unique and well made patterns although they don't usually include the whole pattern just like an interesting sleeve, so you still have some work to do. In future, when I start up my own brand I had the idea of selling full patterns to the clothes for people to make them themselves.
😂😂😂 so true.
another amazing video i love your videos so much. thank you for deciding to post.
It’s my understanding that Hermes is the only luxury brand because of the quality of materials, they only accept the best leathers, they grow their own silk and vetiver and their leather items are hand sewn using traditional saddlery techniques. The rest are fashion brands, you did say that at the end. 😊
Excellent information and well researched! But please slow down when you talk - your work is superb and deserves to be slowly absorbed. Thank you again!
For someone who doesn't know a thing about fashion your video was very informative, interesting and enjoyable! You have gained a subscriber! Keep up the great work!!
I currently go to fashion school and this entire topic along with seeing the likes of Raf Simmons leave his company and seeing how many designers that we all look up to go away over the years has genuinely really disheartened my interest in pursuing fashion as a whole I hope it gets better
I love fashion. My mom and dad were very fashionable people. My mom made a lot of her clothes. I sat by her side for hours as she made her clothes and draperies and other items on her sewing machine. She always had a Vogue pattern or McCalls pattern to cut and sew. She even made clothing for me. I love clothes. But I wear Westwood, JPG, RO, etc. I never wear Gucci or any of those types of brands. I realize what was happening to fashion and what it’s come to now. Your article was facts and on point. Thank you.
As a client advisor at LV... the quality is awful . Unless you get to the high priced ready to wear or exotics and hard sided...... dont even bother.
Totally agree. The other day I was shopping and I've noticed that the same brands I used to buy just have higher prices, bigger logos and lower quality. The lack of taste and quality is pandemic at the social media generation.
When the tshirt for brands like Givenchy and Gucci out priced their tailored shirts 3x retail price, I felt something weird was going on. When I worked for MJ over a decade ago, the owner told us that LV does not spend more than 99 cents on the materials for their product (bags included). Fashion seemingly has a Beanie Baby crisis where the value held in the item is completely sustained by the public’s perceived value of the item. I will give LVMH credit for investing in retail creative and showmanship by the boatload - which absolutely helps maintain the perception of product value. I have worked downstream with public brands for CEO’s who have no idea how fashion psychology and runway/retail experience effects the consumer. Those companies have tanked.
Thank you for this amazing information breakdown. With the Balenciaga scandal, this breaks down the industry for me in an easy to understand format. The flow charts have been incredibly helpful! From Ohio!
I really enjoyed your video and I didn't know how much Bernard Arnault had an bad effect on fashion. Im french and actually i was born in the same city as arnault did but its far different now from when bernard arnault was younger. This city (Roubaix) now is the poorest city in france because all the textile factories closed from the decision of lvmh and others. People lost their jobs and basically this city never got better economicaly.
Factories closing all over not only in textiles in France but most importantly Europe all traditional crafts ,lace ,buttons knitwear handbags and haberdashery ,garments etc all moved to Indonesia and China . A big loss to manufacturing which took an upturn after the war and now all those people have passed on .Which means no jobs any more only sweat shops .Any baton ; passed to the person who rescued and saved these companies from liquidation doesn't necessarily pass the finish line first
Thank you for your comment im really impressed how much people is aware about this issue
You are doing great! Thank you, lad. I once a high-end fashion goer, but since '16, I was just hitting rock bottom in being nostalgic to inventors and Avant-garde innovators I once read about in my early childhood times.
But anyway, thank you. Let's talk more
Fascinating! I’m a designer but I’ve found zero inspiration by couturiers for over 15 years…..now I know why the lack of real creativity has been so prevalent. I have been getting inspiration from historic clothing in different cultures in the past, where real craftsmanship and personal artistry was the foundation of personal style
Make your own clothing! All you need is a sewing machine, fabric, threads, etc and paper to make a pattern .... I started with 12 to make my own things and became a seamstress. I worked 38 years in the textile industry. I still make most of my clothing myself!
this!!!
Can you support yourself doing that?
I wish it were that easy. I simply have no talent for that type of work, but that would be a dream for me if I could.
Wanna start making my own clothes while selling some under my own label one day
@@pa5666 the only way to become good at it is to practice
Very interesting pov! Instant subscribe ❤️
I totally agree about product quality going down and prices going up especially for LV buy other brands too
Thanks for sharing 💫
fantastic video. well-reasoned and researched, and you are very articulate and well-spoken which makes this an easy watch.
Thanks for a good well thought out video, and for giving me another way of looking at fashion👍
Thank you so much for the content you're putting out there ! I don't know much about fashion & I mainly consume mainstream media so it's really nice to have some critical point of view as well
yo wheres your jumper from? also nice gaudi poster
Everything has been commoditized. It makes everyone who wants to participate feel better. Those that cannot become activists.
Was high fashion different at all before though? Maybe the artist's intention has been to express themselves but for the consumer it has always been about the status it brings to them, i doubt the consumer cares or has cared at all about the artistic vision when buying the product.
Honestly it's not like the designers and workers actually get paid that much... and it takes so much time, knowledge and money to launch a whole brand especially with this current media scape that the ai makes it harder to do
Sure, however designers aren't taught much in terms of business skills either, they're not being set up to start and run their own businesses. AI if anything could be something that levels the playing field for smaller brands that can't afford to hire more workers at first.
Because of this influence, somebody is buying everything, my interest on labels is nearly vanished. I don‘t like it anymore to give my money to almost one person to make him more and possesive. Now these labels for me look cheap in a way… not special. Dagobert Duck Style…
I can spend the whole day watching your material. been a fashion designer since age 11. been a fashion designer en miami for the last 18, you have great point and I agree in most of you opinion. I eat fashion like my bday cake... thanks again.
Conspiracy theory: He is the son of the coffee expert Buzzfeed featured a few years ago. Change my mind.
This was good. I think the same way you do about fashion. Never been a fan of Gucci or LV etc. I’m really into new designers coming out of Paris and London like MilesGeorgeDaniels and Paolo Carzana. I do like balenciagia boots. I have followed fashion for years. Vivieen Westwood is in my top 5.
So this is the guy that Kanye is always dissing
Dude! You’re one hell of a smart dude. I sincerely believe you can be or do whatever you want. You have the smarts.
I don’t know how talented a designer you are or could be but from this vantage point journalism would be well served by your talents.
You’re convincing in your argumentation. Authoritative without seeming cocky or overly opinionated. Well researched but deliver with a sense of conviction buoyed by a deep grasp of the subject matter.
Your narrative had the ring of “truth.” Whilst I underhand that the matter is highly subjective, it nevertheless came across as something you deeply believe and thus came across as truthful. Genuine.
Success with whatever you do in the end. You’ll be great at it. This I believe.
really like the editing of this video, imo makes the video way more casual
who are those 2 designers at 12:09
i don't know anything about fashion and it is not really my domain, but i can tell you that what you described is happening in every field of life, in every industry. Late stage capitalism basically, very few big companies controlling everything and extracting all value soullessly. We can even imagine that eventually one big company willrun the whole world, if we stay under the same economical system.
Something like amazon is the prime example of that.
Really a great video, I learned a few things I didn't know about Arnault and LVMH. Agree 100% on how we need to be more aware about how these things are made and how we're being fed a lot of crap to get us to buy stuff.
I like fashion/aesthetics but I find the fashion world disgusting....
Have you read „Gods and Kings“? I think you would love it. It’s about Alexander McQueen and John Galliano.
15:28 I completely left fashion industry for several reasons, but exploitation and lack of creativity and meaning are some of them. Now, I work in the tech industry and work with companies which have products which have a positive impact on the world in my opinion like an app helping MS patients. I am so much more happier, but sometimes, I miss fashion.
I met him on a beach in Spain once. He was carrying a suitcase of socks, sunglasses etc and kept trying to sell me them. Got to admire the hustle even if he was annoying
I'm completely uncreative but I defo noticed that conglomerates have destroyed the differences and risk taking in many creative fields, for example Disney with TV/movies
What´s your thouhgts on Goyard and their craftmansship?
My goyard card holder looks like its been run over by a cement truck. Its about 2 years old now.
@@Plupish lmao mine too! IMO Goyard is even a bigger rip off for their overprized canvas
@Fashionlover44 is it ligma?
Interesting that it is even legal to have such a monopoly. There are several examples in history where companies where forced to split up.
One of the most famous examples was the Standard oil by Rockefeller, which was forced to split in 1911.
I work as designer in the watch industry where there exist several big groups, where LVMH is one of them.
It is sad to see many of the family companies loose control and taken over by groups. I feel the creativity within the companies changes significantly and the identity becomes empty
Lose not loose. Lose control vs. loose change.
Regardless of his background or education, Arnault remains the exemplar par excellence of someone who is only interested in himself and his net worth. He would not be able to design his way out of a doghouse.
You are adorable plus this content was very interesting I don't buy labels like that but I like seeing the evolution of fashion. Thank you for teaching me some stuff today!
You have beautiful thoughts. Love that you share your thoughts. You speak about thing I’ve been feeling for a long long time. Big hug from me and a big thanks you for your content
Great video, your analysis is spot on.
Constantly pushing so hard on the accelerator of ever higher prices, reduced quality, and psychological manipulation to try and sell it all is making folks wake up.