I'm a pro, over 20 years experience in the field, and 28 years in the electrical wholesale business. Everything you're showing your audience is spot on correct, and it's how I do it👍🏻
Ok : you a pro than you should have seen the push button light switches , knob and tube wiring , UF cable with out ground , and copper coated steel wire !!
@@bowersj Ok , I do make valid points And if you don't belive me look up "mobile home " electrical supplies " you will see the modular duplex receticals and wall switches ! I have a few of them ! if you look up old house wiring you should see the push button light switches ! And yes meny homes still use " Fuse Boxes "
Ok : Anybody who is a ( pro ) in Residential Wiring should be familure with 1) breaker pannels , 2) fuse boxes, 3) modular type duplex recepticals and wall switches, 4) alluinum wiring, 5) the push button wall switches, 6) UF cable without a ground , 7) copper coated steel wire, 8) nickle coated copper wire !! Also a pro should know 4 ways to feed both legs of a 220v ac curcuit !!
Excellent tutorial! I am a DIYr and have been doing electrical for over 40 years. I started learning when I was 10 and helped my dad. He would let me do all of the switches and outlets which I would leave hanging out so that he could review my work. What you are teaching is HUGELY valuable to all DIYrs. Great job and keep up the great work.
Pro having been a licensed General Contractor and wiring hundreds of houses I wanted to comment that these videos are fantastic. For anyone whether replacing an outlet or doing inspection this is fantastic information. I recently purchased an older home (1955) build and am upgrading all of the electrical. It has been so very interesting to see all of the different ways people have wired outlets over the years! When going through apprenticeship I was trained to always put the ground down on a outlet.
16, trade school attending DIYer here, I knew of speed wiring (and the higher danger associated with it), side wiring (the standard for my class), but had never knew of back wiring being a thing as I haven't worked with commercial grade receptacles yet. Thankyou for the new information that we haven't covered in class, I'll definitely speak with my instructors for deeper understandings of some of the concepts you spoke of in the video, thanks mate!
DIYer here who didn't realize point no 3 that the speed wiring terminal was for a one time use only. I agree, I don't trust this feature and never use it. For item 4, never noticed the hook for bending the wire around the screw. For Item no 9, after working for Underwriters Laboratories for years, I was taught that receptacles should always be installed with ground prong toward the bottom so that if a plug begins to fall out of an outlet, the ground pin will be last to loose contact. This is also the reason why the ground pin on the plug is a little longer.
Speed wire reminds me of sharkbite plumbing fittings. The other ground pin view is install ground up so that if something falls down onto a loos plug, the ground pin is the first to touch instead of shorting between the pos/neg prongs.
Hospital code 1990 ;ground hole on receptical was top of outlet ; if conductor fell on plug/ outlet breaker trip assured.Nurse at bedside wearing bracelet ,jewelry fell off wrist hit electricity- nurse burned before breaker tripped. That is the story as published.Amazing things happen with people and electricity.
But ground up incase the prongs are falling out of the receptacle and say a butter knife falls down on top of it all. The knife would hit the ground first.
A combination of 2 of these points is Switched Outlets and Ground Terminal facing Up. In a previous home, nearly all receptacles were installed with ground facing down. The exception was the switched outlets. These were installed with ground facing up so that it was instantly identifiable as to which outlet was controlled by the switch, and it was always the top outlet of the upside down or ground up receptacle that was controlled by the switch. I found that to be very cool and helpful when we moved in.
i have also seen that when i was was younger. it made identification of the switched receptacle very easy and as you said the one that was switched was indeed always the top one.
This is one common identifying scheme, but as with a preference for ground up or ground down, there is no standard. I'll also note that switched outlets, a.k.a. half hots, are still common with some builders. What is no longer common is having ONLY a half hot in a room. I wired up lots of bedrooms with a three gang switch: one for the overhead light, one for the overhead fan, and one for the half hot(s). As a general rule the half hot (and sometimes more than one) will go in a location where a bedside lamp would go, if in a bedroom.
@@MichaelClark-uw7ex - have you even seen a Schuko plug and outlet? It's one of the more common types, having been adopted in much of Europe. With Schuko, ground is generally up _and_ down. Then there's the traditional Italian, sometimes still used in other countries such as Uruguay, where ground is in the middle. In the United States, ground is usually up in commercial settings but down in residential settings, but it can also be left or right. There is no official requirement.
Pro 2. If you’re just switching half of the receptacle there’s no need to break the tab on the neutral side. Also, “speed wiring” or back stabbing as it’s commonly referred to is never a good idea, I’m glad you said that more than once, it’s worth repeating. I have been a licensed electrician for 35+ years and have repaired many overheated loose connections due to back stabbing.
Retired Pro. You don't like speed wiring but if you think about it there is nothing difference between speed wiring and when you plug something into the outlet. When you plug into a outlet it is just pressure holding the plug into the outlet just like speed wiring.
@@williambaker6630 when you plug something in, the blades and pin on the plug have a huge amount of surface area compared to the amount of wire that touches that little tab in the back of the outlet. Get close to the amperage rating for that outlet and it's gonna heat up where you backstabbed it. Because the plug blades are so much larger they won't. That's the reason older plug ends heat up. They've worn out and lost some of that surface area.
@@buckkruszewski1059 That is incorrect and you can see why in the video where he shows you the internals of the speed wiring setup. The opposite side from the clip makes full contact with the full length of the wire. If it was a over heating risk no company would risk including them in their design, as even one house fire could completely bankrupt them. The fact that virtually every receptacle made includes them is a testament to their safety.
It is really incredible that it is still an acceptable (approved) method, being that is so universally not recommended. I have NEVER heard 'speed wiring' to be recommended.
DIY - 1. I had a custom home built years ago and the electricians oriented switched receptacles with the ground up so they are easily identified. I loved this idea as a best-practice and applied it to subsequent remodel projects I've done. Keep these great videos coming!
I used to be a pro I went to electrical trade school and learned all this there over 30yrs. ago. It's nice to see someone informing others the right terminology. NEVER EVER USE the quick/ speed wiring I've seen them fail and cause more problems then there worth.
The worse troubleshooting call was stab-lock plug with aluminum romex wire behind a bookshelf! I was a electrical contractor since 1985, I am retired now, but I used to go out on service calls when I worked for someone. The wire had burned up the wall, but had put itself out.
AGREE! Not only are they poor, they really can mess you up in troubleshooting as just the act of removing the receptacle from the box can cause the circuit to complete again. As a matter of course when I see the speed method used, I rewire to at least the side method.
The speed wire is horrible. As you push the receptacle back in it makes the wire disconnect. Then it doesn't work. Remove it, and then the spring re-engages. DIY-2.
Pro in HVAC and Constrution while I’m not a licensed electrician- being in the fields I am for the number of years, Ive picked up a wealth of knowledge in most facets associated with most areas associated with construction. (3) stripper, bending Shepard’s hook and insulation gage. Vid was nicely done , though it did a great job of explaining all the features but kept it simple to understand for those with little experience. While I’ve been doing construction over 35 years I’m a big believer in continuous education since material and techniques are continuously changing which prevents anyone from knowing everything about everything, channels like this are great to keep up with both.
@@aztecabrnsoyyo1167 it certainly doesn’t hurt having me around when it comes to anything home related. Just don’t let me near your car, not so much lol.
DYI Dude! You just fixed my living rooms "mystery switch." My home was built in '61. We bought in' 90. No idea why the living room switch didn't work?! Now I do. I fixed it thanks to you. You are da man!
Love the people that lived in a house for 20 30 years and just figured out what the switch did in the room. Rented an apartment with a switch many many years ago that had such a switch. I plugged a light in every outlet to figure out that the switch worked one of them. And no I didn't figure out it on my own I mentioned it to my grandfather and he told me it probably worked an outlet.
DIY. Watched my father DIY literally everything like an expert. Excellent video for me. I am changing all receptacles in house on my own as a 62yo female. Love it!
PRO 1, Almost 30 years of wiring and I never heard of the "nickel-dime" sizing technique. That will be very useful for my customers. Thank you for that! FYI it's not just a receptacle, it's a DUPLEX receptacle! Great video!!!
Learned that when I was an electricians helper, in the 70s, went on to get my journeyman's license and then my Master electricians license, and at almost 70 years old I'm still learning, I love learning and helping others to learn more. Great field to work in , but you have to keep up with the changes.
I study Spaceweather.. May 20 2021 was the 1 00 year mark of a major solar storm..Because early electric use was DC the energy followed the lines undamped.. fires began from the intensity of the current..I remember unplugging electric use during storms many times.. then AC was standard.. question is how to protect electric from large spikes?
@@spaceweather2020 … they make whole panel surge suppressors now but if your panel is very old they might not be available for that. They might be built in now (not sure) but mine looks like a double pole breaker, recommended to be placed nearest the feeder wires. Luckily my panel could spare the two spaces.
That is an excellent idea. Now I just need to go back and find the receptacle I forgot to remove the little jumper on. Then I can switch it ground up...........
Ground down, because some wall-warts and power cords are made for the weight and cord to go down. For example my UPS cord is a right-angle plug, and it's better for it pointed down towards the floor. I also have a big wall-wart that's also right-angle with the body, and the cord that comes out of it, also pointed towards the floor. Pointed up the weight would cause it to pull away from the receptacle. Another thing some receptacles come with a neon bulb indicating that outlet is energized.
My house (from mid 80s) was wired with "ground hole up", but I've flipped a few for reasons cited here - big wall warts and hair dryers with GFI in plugs that just work better with cord going down instead of up.
Where I live grounds are up in hospitals and medical offices etc. Other than that, I look around at existing recepticles to see how they are installed.
DIY 9. I've replaced a lot of receptacles and I always bent the shepherds hook with pliers. I thought that there must be an easier way. Thanks for showing it to me. Also, I emphatically agree about speed wiring. I lived in a house for 30 years that was totally speed wired and I had to rewire a lot of receptacles while living there. Most were malfunctioning when I moved into the house which, at the time, was only 3 years old. Thank you.
Good feedback. I've also gone back to outlets that I side-wired 10-15 years ago, and found that even those tend to loosen with age/use (maybe in part due to the softness of copper wire). So I assume speed-wired outlets will be much worse and there is no way to "retighten" those connections.
DIY 5. Speed wiring a common issue I have come across when having to do electrical repairs of a former home owner DIYer. I suspect most of the problems are the result of failing to understand that it is a one time use only feature. Great video, keep ‘em coming.
I would never use it, my dad taught me how to bend the wire using electrician's pliers. Out of respect for my dad I will continue doing so. Long nose pliers is much better for bending copper wire. But each one has their own views which don't make either one more right.
@@bmxerkrantz it's ok you don't have to be a pro to change a duplex outlet. Just follow the video, black on the gold color screw and white on the silver color screw. Green or bare wire on the green color screw. Make sure the unused screws are tightened down. Stay away from using the quick connect terminals unless it's the type that the screw tightens the wire. You will find them on more expensive outlets. Also make sure the old outlet didn't have any tabs taken off the ones where the screw terminals are. Those are split circuit outlets like for lights and other dedication circuits.
DIY for 50 yrs. I am an electronics tech, retired, so I have always been comfortable around things electrical. I have worked with some high voltage that will fry you quickly if you're not careful. 3 things I learned from the video: Starting the hook in the wire using the outlet itself to start it; never use the speed wiring (I don't); and turning over the receptacle to indicate a switched outlet. Well done video, clear and informative. BTW, I have a hard time getting the receptacle to release wires that have been plugged into the speed holes. Difficult to find a tool that will fit in there well. I know you can cut them off, but often there is already barely enough wire.
If you twist the wire back and fourth wile pulling on it it will come right out. What I do is after removing the two screws holding the receptacle start twisting the receptacle left and right wile pulling on it and the wires will start popping off one at a time.
DIYer 5,6,7 - love these kinds of informational vids as well as the how-to’s. I’ve always been someone who needs to know the how AND the why. Knowing the “why” helps a lot in figuring out what to do when I run into something I wasn’t expecting.
DIY 7, I’ve done a few small electrical repairs in my home, but watching and learning here makes me feel more confident doing more - really enjoying your diy-er videos!
I’m a DIY’ER and I thought I knew pretty much everything about wall “receptacles” there was. But you taught me some more new things that I did not already know, that I needed to know. Thank you very much. Now I also have learned how to add “receptacles” anywhere I need one. Been needing an extra couple, too. Makes me happy to learn new things.
Pro 1. Didn't know the nickel/ dime thing, but its pretty easy to tell the difference once you've worked with it for a while. Also jackets are color coded now white, yellow, orange but when I started everything was white. I've seen the thing about the built in wire stripper, but I have never tried it myself and don't know anyone who has. I was also taught that the two ears top and bottom can be broken off and used as shim washers to level the outlet to the wall. I think the ground up/down was more of a regional thing, at least 20 or 30 years ago. I like to put them ground down because some polarized wall wart type power supplies tend to unplug themselves if the ground is up.
DIY - Learned 4 things. Using nickel/dime to determine wire size, tab on side for switched outlet, using groove to bend my j hook, concave front to guide plug into slots. I have a bunch of receptacles to replace & I'm going to try the bending thing. That was the most useful tip. Thanks.
I'm a DIY'er for over 50 years and knew all of what you spoke of. Nevertheless, this was a very concise and well explained video, great job. One more fact worth mentioning is another difference between the standard duplex and decor styles and that is the lack of a center screw hole on the front of the decor outlet. Having a center hole, which usually holds the trim plate on, is a necessity when attaching external receptacle expansions, whether it's to increase the number of devices that can be connected or in combination with night lights and USB outlets. Using the center hole screw that comes with most of these will help ensure they stay firmly attached when unplugging power cords.
That makes sense I have a duplex type with six outlets and both grounds and prongs are used I don't like when the manufacturer cuts corners and has only one plug for all them outlets at least mind only have 3 outlets per plug. I do use the center screw when using these adapters. Between two plugs and the center screw the adapter stays plugged in. 73
I replaced 6 outlets in 3 rooms that had mystery switches. Now they work correctly! My wife is so excited I figured it out. She just doesn't understand it took me 30 years to do it. I blame beer.
DYI 8, now... was in new construction, residential, for about 5 years 30+ years ago. Never did any electrical work. This is a great info video! You have removed a lot of unwanted "fears" of the basic with electricity. Thank you. I am now a subscriber. Great job!
Pro 3. Nickel trick (although I’ve done so much I intuitively know the difference 14-12. Flat vs concave. Wire stripping function of mounting. Don’t think I’ll ever use it. Instead of using the tab on the outlet to form the crook I use the hole near the fulcrum of the strippers. For me much quicker. Great video. Please keep ’em coming. Doesn’t matter how long we’ve done it or how smart we are we should and can still learn something new every day.
Sir, your skill level and number of unknown facts is missing. The man exhibited superior ability and passion for electrics by producing this channel. Did you give a thumbs up? Subscribe? Go ahead and come back in and take care of these points of discrepancy, that we might honor you as an elder. Thank you, sir. DIY / PRO-in-a-pinch --- 3
I’m a DIY’er, but I have no idea how I wound up here. I was watching space related videos- but hey, your videos are getting recommended! Watched the whole thing and I only knew one.
Great job explaining. As a "pro" and HS instructor, I teach ground up. The reasoning came from a Leviton rep who explained that if either the plate was loose or the plug was loose in the receptacle, you are not exposing the hot spade. Also, the ground socket does not crack with the mass of the middle of the receptacle, supporting a three-pronged cord unlike if you installed ground down. I think we all have seen a lot of receptacles with the bottom of the ground socket broken away due to a loose or heavy cord\plug.
DYI here for about 50 years. Several years ago I was a new home warranty technician and later a draftsman/designer for a residential builder. I have always done my own home wiring including repairs, additions, etc. Was nice to learn a couple extra things about receptacles. Thanks for the video. The review of the other items was nice too.
My dad added several outlets in each bd-rm and also had a couple of them connected to a wall switch. He has the ones that go to the switch with the ground up, and the others are ground down. This makes it easy to know which are going to the wall switch. He was a brilliant man.
Pretty common in new builds in Ohio at least. The last two "new" houses I had, they installed the switched outlets "ground up" and the rest "ground down."
my parents home when I was younger had all the switch receptacles with the ground up, that was in CO. very good way to identify the switched receptacles. actually just bought a house and planned on turning the receptacles that were on switches upside down just to help better identify... always a pain when you go plug in a charger or light and wonder why it isn't working then quickly remember you gotta turn the switch on lol
DIY 2 - Wasn't aware of the stripper, nor the nickel/dime wire gauge technique, though I've been around enough to differentiate between 12g and 14g by sight/feel. Nice video. Thanks!
67 year old female, DIY... Right now, there is an electrician (son's father in law) at my home doing some work. My husband and son were quite impressed that I knew most of what you were demonstrating. I tried to show them on a receptical, but, they made me google it to prove I didnt make it up! Thank you for backing me up! Great video!
Pro. I got another. The black side goes on the "Gold"/brass-colored screws and white on the silver ones. edit: Decided to put quotes around the word gold and add brass. I know it's brass. I just put what the common person would call it.
Is the green screw bonded to the 'silver' screws? Why is that? What is double insulated? What's the difference between bonded and grounded? Many out there know so much about electricity, and it's fundamentals, is there any wonder why there are so many electrical fires. I can tell everyone electricity has no conscience, it's always looking to ground it's self, and everything works on a short basis. Not all electricians are really electricians...
Pro knew 8. They been color coding the screws for decades. About the ground up/down. Ground up is a safety factor. Most generally electrical wall outlets or electric device receptacles are installed around one foot off the floor. So physically you are bending or squatting while your are plugging a device into the receptacle. A person is more likely to be subjected to a fall in such a position. So I ask, " if you were to loose your balance while plugging something. Which rather you choose to fall on; the hot and neutral prongs or the ground prong............................... I would choose the preceding. It feels great having E120 i15 P1800 @ 60hz flowing through your internals.
@@undeserved1781 Is the green screw bonded to the 'silver' screws? No. Why is that? So that you don't have objectionable current on the EGCs. What is double insulated? If you are meaning with cord connected tools/appliances; they have the outer casing that users make physical contact with insulated from the internal parts(some of which are current carrying). What's the difference between bonded and grounded? If something it bonded, then it is connected in a way to establish an electrically conducive path to the thing that it is bonded to. When something is grounded, it is connected to earth or bonded to an electrical path that is connected to earth.
Pro. I'm a licensed electrician. I did not know about the wire stripper. I've got a new one for you to add. It's something that I started noticing often enough to think it's a real thing, but I've never heard it from any other electrician and I've asked a lot about it. I even asked all the electricians in an electrical CE class. It's regarding switched receptacles. At one point I had to do a LOT of home inspections and that's when I started putting this together. If you walk into a room with a wall switch, but there is no ceiling light, look for a receptacle that is upside down. It's easier to spot if it is grounded, but newer ungrounded versions have one "fat" blade so the receptacle is "polarized" and I've spotted them that way too. The upside down receptacle will be connected in whole or in part to the switch. If the receptacles have been changed out you are much less likely to find this. At least twice I've had a homeowner tell me that they had a switch but didn't know what it went to. I'll do a slow turn in the room and point to an outlet, and sure enough, half of it is switched. Far more often, when someone says that, the receptacles have been changed and the terminal bridge has not been removed on the switched receptacle. Another one, did you know that the terminal bridge on a 15Amp is rated to carry 15Amps? It is a code violation to daisy-chain 15Amp receptacles in 20Amp circuit by using only the side terminals for the circuit connections. You must complete the circuit using (typically) wire nut connections that include a "pigtale" the supplies that outlet, but does NOT carry the load of the overall circuit. Another one, the "ears" on the yoke of the receptacles are designed to break off so that the outlet can be mounted more "flatly" when installed in a "rework" or "cut in" box that has a flange that goes on the outside of the wall. Also, the ears used to always be round (years ago) and electricians would save them because they were free #6/8 washers useful sometimes when an old box wasn't quite flush or plumb on the front. The longer I sit here the more I think of. All outlet have some sort of wafer or disk to retain the #6 mounting screw. In the last few years you may have noticed that one of the #6 screws has a springy metal retainer instead. Screw retention is a secondary benefit of something designed for another purpose. This is a "self-grounding" receptacle. The idea is that if you have a metal box, you ground the metal box and the brass-colored spring is rated for providing the ground connection. I'm not sure I'm a fan of this feature. Just like "quick wiring" a receptacle using the barb-spring. BTW, when we find that (quick-wire) feature used, we call it being "stabbed in the back" or someone "stabbed the home-owner in the back."
@@benmughal - yes, you can daisy chain 15 amp circuit to 15 amp outlets and 20 amps to 20 amp circuit, you can oversize wire, receptacles and conduit but it’s expensive, but not a protection device’s.
My entire 2003 built house used the stabbed in the back method on ALL outlets and switches. I replaced them all (with decora, BTW). They also mounted the front of the electrical boxes flush with the stud, not mounted to be flush with the drywall. UGH on all the spacers I used.
I had a previous homeowner backstab a pigtail off of a GFCI. He used the wrong stripper size and eventually the hot wire broke at the surface of the hole, but it still touched enough to deliver current with a much higher amp pull. The pigtail fed my refrigerator outlet, high amp and constant start/stop. My electrical bill was much higher than my neighbors with similar family size. After a very long troubleshoot of the whole house I found that flaw. My electric bill dropped $70 a month just from that one repair. I assumed it may have damaged the refrigerator so I replaced it and saved another $20 a month after that.
I guess it's possible that the fridge was trying to start constantly and only succeeding sometimes and the starting surge was using the extra current? But that's a lot of juice and if the outlet had been consuming it, I think it would have been burned to a crisp>
DIY 6. Never knew the little hook to help bend the wire around the screw. Very helpful. Also didn't know that backstabbing was a no-no. Very helpful. Thank you!
Experienced electrician and design engineer here and you have a great video here. Pro-0 level (knew all about these receptacles but always look to learn something new).That nickel dime thing is kinda cool. Thanx for that. I wanted to fill you in though about that "quick" wire hole method and why to not use it. If you use that to wire, you run the risk of connection failure and cause arcing and could cause a fire with it. That connection is illegal in a lot of jurisdictions and if you're in one and that caused the fire, your insurance won't pay off. As oft times it happens, people overload receptacles which cause heat. That heat causes that connection to deform and takes away the spring pressure of the tab. It will eventually fail as a connection and often arc. I've seen wires pull out of those connections on their own and cause a fire. Just put the extra time to make good connections. The life you save could be your family and it could save you a whole lot more trouble getting that insurance payment for your fire loss.
DIYer 2 and 8. I’m a maintenance technician at a children’s hospital and always have my ground up on metal boxes because if the outlet cover becomes loose from use it trips to ground immediately. Great video, thanks for making it.
The Canadian electrical code has diagrams of receptacle configurations, and standard 15 (and 20) amp 120v receptacles are shown with the ground at the top.
@@robbbenedict Pretty sure the standard for 120v 15, 20A circuits is ground down. However large aperture 30A and above the cords with 90deg plugs have ground at the outside. These outlets maybe oriented ground up so the cord with 90deg plug hangs down. 90deg plugs have the advantage of being able to slam the plug into the outlets to get a good connection. The orientation of higher Amperage circuits is planning for safe attachment of the "short" cord to the motor or other load. Why not wire these motors direct. Servicing safety. Unplug the cord when servicing, and the breakers are not insight.
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:NEMA_simplified_pins.svg I subscribe to the safety aspects of orienting the ground at the top when possible, though note that certain types such as range outlets require orienting differently due to connecting plugs.
ALSO...those little rings (looks like mouse ears) are scored so they can break off easily. They are like washers, and can be used as spacers to help position the outlet flush with the wall if the box is set in too far.
Yes you can use the rings as spacers, but they make spacers just for that purpose. When using an " old work" box, you break off the tabs so the device is set back closer to the wall. Sometimes if you dont Break off the rings, the cover plate will not fit flush, or tight against the wall.
That's not correct. There are plastic bushings for that - the 1/16” you'll get from the ears is not useful. What those are _actually_ for is removal for use in single-gang or cut-in boxes
What I always use to us was I would buy a roll of clear tubing the size of the screws, ( I don't remember the size, to many years ago for an old fart in a nursing home). Cut of a piece and put it on the screw and as you screw in the plug the tubbing will compress and you stop when it is flush. No screwing around with washers. It makes it very quick and easy. That is what I liked. Making up tricks to make things quick and easy. Hmm!! Quick and easy. Sounds like the girls way back in school!! Yes old farts did it too!! And never speed wire. Real men do not speed wire. That is for the girly men that do not know how to do it right. I wonder what idiot invented speed wire and just what was he thinking. If you are to lazy to bent the wire and screw it you should be in the kitchen baking. A speed one was just for in the back of the 57 Chevy before the cops pulled up and lite you up with a flashlight.
DIY-er Trained electrician but never worked in the industry. Got into sales my whole life but my training has stayed with me all these years. I like the ground UP!
DIY - 3 I was always taught “Ground end down”. When I wired my house, I did a bunch of research and found that the ground side should be up due to safety concerns (e.g. metal plate touching the ground first). After living in the house for a short period of time, I regretted not following my training. I found that all of the low-profile, 3-pronged plugs were designed for “ground end down”. When plugging these wires into my receptacle, the wire went up and then looped back down, due to gravity. The causes extra stress on those cables and resulted in premature failure. I have actually rotated the receptacles in the common places that those 3-pronged plugs are used (e.g. by the bathroom sink). But now I have some receptacles with ground up and some with ground down, and that, my friend, drives me crazy!!! 😖😖😖 Thanks for the video!
Yeah. Just a civilian here but I don't understand the ground end up logic for many reasons, one of which you mentioned but another is that you can see the prongs that might get electrified before fully inserted if the ground end is down but if the ground end is up you see the ground plug better than the actual electrified prongs which isn't as ideal.
DIY 7. Ground down makes more sense when you have a plug with the big rectangular transformers, as upsidedown they aren't very sturdy in the receptacle and tend to fall out.
There's a few reasons why you might want the ground on top, transformers are 1 reason, directional plugs are another and the safety aspect is another. That's all I can think of at the moment.
The ground was originally down because of flooding they want the water levels to hit the round first, of course if flooding’s that high that probably your last worry lol
As a Licenced Electrician from Scotland/UK and also in Canada (Master Red Seal 309A), there are good reasons for ground up (I've yet to see a really good one for ground down other than habit). The principle of ground up is that if the plug is partially pulled out, in a ground down scenario, anything falling into that gap (like a metal knife) would cause a short between live & neutral. Ground up in the same scenario would be completely safe. In a similar vein, if you're installing your outlets (receptacles - yes I was paying attention) sideways, then it is safer to install with the (wider) neutral slot at the top, as opposed to the live. That said, there's nothing in the Codes to dictate these methods in North America. #StaySafe
Pro with 20+ years of residential wiring and aware of 9 of the tip except for the receptacle stripping feature -- I would never suggest anyone use it. We all thank you for your well-done DIY tutorials, I would trust sending my friends and customers your videos.
DIY 2. I would LOVE for you to share the dangers of "daisy chaining", especially with speed wiring. Most people don't understand how dangerous a fire hazard it is. Pigtails only. In my house, every Outlet I rewired I changed to a Decora Outlet. That way I could instantly tell whether I had fixed the outlet or not.
Excellent tip there. I've changed a few in a townhouse I own and now don't remember which ones. Probably worth doing. Or else go in and check them all. I have a few weeks with it empty where I may just do that as well as fix a few which don't sit flush with the faceplates.
@@coeneschamaun1735 Basically, you are running the circuit THROUGH the receptacles instead of just the wires. What this does is make the receptacle a "point of failure" which could break the circuit and it also means you are introducing a lot more resistance to the circuit (compared to just twisting wires together). Twisting the wires together, then running a pigtail to the receptacle means that the wires will maintain the circuit even if the receptacle fails or is broken. (DISCLAIMER: I am NOT an electrician, just an old, retired IT guy who has had to "wire" a lot of computer shit together over the years...any electricians out there may have a better description).
@@donknowles2531 I also am not an electrician, and I dont think I could have explained it better. Examples of points of failure would be if a wire came loose, everything "down stream" of that receptacle would lose power, or (as was the reason I rewired my moms basement to have all pigtails) It can burn the first outlet of the chain, which leads to a fire hazard. Also an added benefit to pigtails would be an easier install of the receptacle in the box, as its easier to push back 3 wires over trying to push back 9 if the receptacle is the "junction" of two branches and one feeder
Dyi, didn't know 5-8. I don't care what the pros say. It makes a lot more sense to call it an outlet. It lets you take power out. Receptacle means receive power. I'm sorry but my outlets don't receive power from my plugs.
I am a DIY electrician. In '03 I confered with a state inspector to see how much of my shop I could wire myself to save a huge amount of money. He said I could do it all myself as long as it was done correctly and to code. I had studied a few books on semi-advanced wiring situations and mapped out romex runs, switches and outlets. When I was almost done, I called for the inspector to come check my work. He pointed out a few simple things that needed corrected. Three weeks later, I called him back. His comment to me was for an amature I had done a first class job. In fact better than some licenced pros. I made sure the breaker box was clearly labled as to where the wires would go. After they hooked up my power, a neighbor came over to ask me to wire up his hot tub. I had to refuse because I was not a qualified electrician and I didn't want to get into trouble. I think I have known about most of these things regarding duplex outlets. And I always side wire for safety. Bob
@@UA-camuser1aa Well, I've stabbed myself with a screw driver. Scraped my fingers and knuckles, but always make sure the power is off on whatever it is I'm working on. I'm replacing bearings on my old 50 yr old PC router. Looks easy enough but must remember to unplug the machine , HA HA!!
@@UA-camuser1aa well you would not believe the hassle, the cirular holders and clamps I had to come up with and engineering apparatices to make taking tese two pieces apart. I borrowed an eight pound slide hammer from a co-worker and wacking on this puppy would still not bust this loose. I'm afraid this router will have to be sent to the great gunny bag in the sky, where in I will be purchasing a brand new router motor from Porter Cable -- alas, easy come, easy go as that is the phrase on wheel of fortune.
DYIer. I bought an older home years ago with the understanding that some of the rooms had to be rewired. I began with the advice and help of a pro friend and lots of reading material. I was able to successfully wire the home and when inspected I was told that I had done a good job and that it met code. Fast forward 28 years and another home onto which I've added another room. I am ready to run the electrical switches and recepticals. I must admit, I'm feeling a little overwhelmed. Your channel has been immensely helpful. I especially like how you stress the safety aspects of working with electricity. Unlike rewiring existing recepticals and switches, I do not have a dedicated power source. Is it possible to run wiring by extending the power from existing recepticals in the older parts of my home, to new switches or recepticals in the addition, to power LED type lighting?
@@jamesradcliffe2496 You need to respect a LOT more rules in code than the old days. Do yourself a favor and buy a homeowner's guide from Home Depot for your area, and spend a few nights reading it and mapping out your install. Pay special attention to spacing, device counts, receptacle box types and wire gauges. It's no longer simple.
DIY guy here. knew most of this but you pointed out the fine points that make me confident I have done it properly. About 3 things I did not know at all like the built in stripper and leviton recepticals
@@JCLJN I have a ranch built in 71, and wiring makes no sense to me. If the BR receptacle goes out or (GFI) trips then the living room goes out also as one example. Also if one receptacle goes out the whole circuit goes out. I learned this from the first time it happened and I needed to call and electrician.
@@bobbyd6680 Generally, to save money in wiring and breakers, since most people are not going to turn on all of the high amp devices they have plugged in at the same time, they will wire all of the receptacles in one large room or two smaller rooms together in parallel and power them from one breaker. So if the breaker is cutting off current, you have either installed something that overloads the breaker when other devices are running at the same time or, since the house is 50 years old and the breaker is probably just as old, the breaker has weakened with age and can not carry the amperage it was rated to carry anymore.
In Germany we only have the speed wiring method. The ar no screws anymore. We do not need a screwdriver to remove them. There are buttons you can press with your finger. These buttons also prevent to press too deep. So after removing the wire it is safe to reuse it, because you can not damage the speed wiring. Greetings from Germany.
I've used German wiring methods many times for control wiring in industrial control panels. We prefer the through type (screw down) terminal blocks over the "speed wiring" quick connect type, because of the high resistance connection and poor reusability. However CSA/UL have a much higher level of safety than CE, and you can tell just by looking at the cheap European plastic equipment vs the quality metal equipment we use. European systems also do not provide the air space to dissipate heat (box fill) that north American systems do. NEMA is much better quality than IEC.
@Green Mamba Games "Americans are loathe to spend money on things that are logical and safe" ... really? What is the insinuation here? US building standards, particularly electrical / NERC are far more strict in the United States than they are in the whole of Europe. Europe and the US follow a similar model. The EU sets a blanket standard that the individual countries must work within. The Federal government sets some regulatory standards the all states must meet at a minimum, but most states have exceeded these requirements. Homes in South Florida example are made of solid concrete... literally built like military bunkers of the 1950s. They also have windows that can withstand a projectile at 125mph and not pierce or break the windows. People in Europe can violate code restrictions as much as Americans can violate code restrictions. Like, I really don't know where you come off with this. Have you ever lived in a foreign country and seen some of the things they've done? In Afghanistan... if the home even has electrical in it, they use whatever wiring and gauge is available. Literally, white, black, green... doesn't matter... it can all be used for hot, ground, or neutral... regardless... this is what many 3rd world countries do.
Doesn't Germany use 240V? I couldn't imagine the catastrophic failure that would happen with US engineered receptacles. German engineering is way better. That's why I bought an Audi. All the new American cars are already rusting when there less than a decade old. 😆 And we say Chinese made is crap.
@@allenhoekstrajr Yes we use 240V with max of 16A. And in Germany the only American car you see is sometimes the Dodge Challenger and very often the RAM 1500. The 2500 doesn't fit in any Parkingslot xD
As someone that has used various electrionic devices over the years with transformers that plug into the wall, ground down is what you are expected to have. My house has gound up and it makes plugging some things in not work well, such as heavy duty UPS systems that have plugs designed to run partly along the wall are very annoying to use when the cord is going up instead of down
I do ground up as a DIYer (3) and I noticed certain things are like that. The reason I do "ground up" is I used to work in a government nuclear reactor and that is how they had them. This is why I'm surprised at the comments on "ground down" for commercial. I'm selling this older house which I have replaced every receptacle in and I think I may change that in the future. I think I will also pay the extra for the commercial receptacles since I really like the clamping of the wire.
I am familiar with the ground up reason. I am also familiar with the complaint of ground up plugs falling out of CHEAP receptacles. I say CHEAP because the lack of clamping force of cheap receptacles is why the plug wants to fall out. Change the receptacle to a commercial grade. Problem solved.
What is interesting is that 6-50 plugs and receptacles are meant to be ground up. That is a 240v 50A setup which is pretty much standard for smaller welders and plasma cutters. Most available plugs are right angle and the cord goes down, or opposite the ground pin. My Miller Mig and plasma are straight plugs but the cord sticks way out vs. Right angle. I can't cut them off because they are dual voltage plugs. The hypertherm 65 came without a plug since it runs single or 3 phase and my miller 330abp tig is hard wired to a 100 amp circuit since it draws 104 amps at 230 volts. The 6-50 receptacle is common for residential garages and commercial shops with portable welding equipment.
1 month of my apprenticeship and I'm a 33 year old looking to learn a new trade and electrician is my dream job I love it , thanks for the info helped me a lot
DIY 3. I prefer ground facing down since that's what practically all power bars, UPS and other stuff with flush plugs are designed for, otherwise the cable shoots up and that puts unnecessary extra stain on everything.
I’m a master electrician/contractor with 21 years in the trade. The reason that receptacles are sometimes “upside down” in hospitals is in case the cord end plugged into the receptacle wasn’t fully engaged and the metal face plate came loose, it would rest on the ground prong of the cord end, rather than on the hot and neutral prongs of the cord end and trip the breaker, on a piece of life support equipment. More importantly, Jesus was born of a virgin, lived a sinless life and was crucified for our sins and raised by the Father on the third day as it is written in the scriptures. He was seen by over 500 people after being raised from the dead. He is the only way to the Father.
i've never seen anyone do that with the receptacle either. it's honestly something that's there but nobody ever notices 😂. but i feel like it sticks out too far for my liking
I could really use your expertise. Just bought a house and was using a carpet washer while my son was vacuuming in the adjacent room, both outlets were running on the same circuit and overloaded the circuit. Went to the breaker to see it didn't trip. Have pulled out all the outlets and switches in the circuit to see if any had burned up in the daisy chain. Found the last outlet in the chain but couldn't narrow down the first outlet in the chain to see where I have lost power. Either way none of the leading wires to the couple outlets I have narrowed down to being the first outlet in the chain for this circuit. No gfis nor junction boxes I could find anywhere in the house even in bathrooms. House was built in 71'. I tested all the single breakers in the box with a meter and all showing 124 volts so looks like the breakers are good. Since the wire out the breaker is showing 124 volts but none of the outlets on that circuit are showing any power coming into the outlet, I can only assume the wire has burned up somewhere in between the breaker and the first outlet in the chain. What do you think and what direction would you go from there?
I have often wondered why outlets are installed ground prong down. It makes more sense to me to install ground prong up - for the reason you mentioned. Thanks
I've very much appreciated every outlet in the last many years says on the back "white/neutral" and "black/hot" next to the screws, and GFCIs also stamp which is the "line/supply" and "load".
I'm a DIYer. With many years in remodel and home repair, I knew all this, sort of, but it sure is good to have it explained again. Keeps my edges sharp. Thanks.
DIY 8: I have always used wire strippers when doing this kind of work, but never realized some outlets had a built in wire stripper as a last resort. Very informative video; thank you!
Hack shit the reason why we have to go back n fix shit speed wiring on a home run knocked out two whole bedrooms lights n outlets both i wrapped it around the screws problem solved
always a pain in the butt to open up a box and finding stabbing has been used. actually against code in my jurisdiction but home owners 'maintenance' do it and intermittents are a pain to chase down. Sometimes plug insertion make pops and small flashes. Scares the shit out of them. "The breaker tripped!!! The breaker tripped!!!" yes as it is supposed to do.
@@DoctorSkillz It is against the code and If I were the inspector I would pull your licence and you could then go work with the plumbers and pipe shit.
I never "back stab" a receptacle. One's just asking for problems down the road. I sometimes see where someone has changed an outlet and tried to straighten the wires from the side screws and then jam them into the back of the new outlet. Just do it right.
Good point. I just moved into a new house and they have about 4 or 5 receptacles per room and only 1 is switched. Since I didn't see it with furniture, I had to track down each outlet that was switched lol.
Ground up isnt to indicate its a switched outlet. The the code was to ground up upnfor this assinine reason, if the plug comes loose and a metalic object like a coin or hairpin falls on the outlet,it will hit the ground, instead of across the hot and neutral there by preventing a short duhhhhh.just becuae u can install an outlet ,it dont mean u are an elcetrician
Former pro. Knew all of these except the Eaton stripper. I don't think those were around back when I was working though. We always stocked Leviton. I was trained that receptacles should be installed ground up so as not to expose the hot and neutral to falling objects if the cord end was loose, but we typically installed them ground down because that is how most customers preferred them. Another point is to make your hooked end so that it starts on the left and goes around clockwise so that the hook tightens as you tighten the screw. Also, for the reasons you stated, I never "back-stab" a receptacle.
So, falling objects are the reason for ground up? I never heard of this. I assumed it was because the ground prong was heavier than the other to prongs and it was a stability issue.
When I was wiring my garage, ESA made me install up quoting safety. Since we plug/unplug with thumb on top, if it touches the ground there is no problem where with ground down, you could contact the hot. I prefer ground down since I'm used to it
DIY 2. I recently rewired my older home from two-conductor to three-conductor wiring. The metal box for the receptacle is small so rather than crowding a pair of #12 wires in daisy-chain, I added a junction box in the basement, and thus only the "pigtail" needed to be pulled into the receptacle box. The inspector had no problem with that.
DIY. 10... which is a number that really surprised me. There were a few things that I had some knowledge of, but most of these facts were completely new to me. Great information, and nice to see professionals supporting your information. Thanks to all the pros out there who take the time to comment!
DIY 3 - In my region it was common to wire receptacle ground down "unless" it was a switched outlet whereby the Electrician wired ground up for identification. I was very appreciative of this in my last home. Some people get around using the Leviton brand by calling them Decorator.
DIYer ... Something I have found interesting is that every house I have lived in in AZ every outlet was wired using speed wiring. It surprises me because of how many electricians say how its terrible yet home builders seem to love it (Must go along with quantity over quality at that point) . So whenever I replace outlets I wrap the wires around the screws. :)
DIY. 4. Thanks for all your great videos. Your number 9, ground up or ground down. I’m glad you mentioned that one. I replaced a garbage disposal and the replacement I purchased was a better disposal but required me to install an electrical outlet to plug it in under my sink where the original didn’t plug into an outlet. A couple years after installing it I noticed I had installed the receptacle ground up and the builder had installed all other outlets in the house ground down. I had it on my to-do list to switch it around but it sounds like it’s not necessary if it’s not code and it’s an outlet that really isn’t seen anyway being inside a cabinet under the sink.
DIY with 25yrs construction experience here. We do ground down, because then when adversity comes to town the ground is the last prong to be ripped from the outlet (as in, when something is dropped or stepped on so cord is forced downward until plug pulls out). Would make sense then to use ground-up to designate switched outlets. Hadn't really thought of that before. Have just always used location as the designator, outlets that would typically be inaccessible with furniture but close to where you'd want a lamp would be switched. Or in the case of switched outlets in the shop, they just get a different color of duplex or get marked some other way as switched. Usually "S1" then "S2" to designate each outlet to its switch. Same for tagging the wire leads, to save on trace time when the next conversion happens for the electrical supply
Pro. I've always oriented my outlets with ground down as I'm a resi sparky. It seems to be more common in commercial to have ground up. I've heard of 2 reasons why to orient the ground up. First to identify the outlet as half hot (Switched outlet). The second would be a safety issue. If you have a piece of art on a wall and it were to fall it would strike the ground first. Ground down it could strike the hot and neutral and create a short.
Also ground up looks less like a "face " to not tempt children to poke the eyes with something
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Placing ground down usually places on the back side of the outlet the ground screw at the lowest part of the box where grounds are not likely to come down on any conductors. And second , right angled cord ends wont have the cord ends facing awkwardly in an up and looping position, possibly causing a snag point for passer byers .A thought .
Explain half hot, like only the switched recepticls (aka half hot) with the bar broke would be ground up? That's interesting and I've never seen that done, but makes perfect sense. Personally I think it looks wonky as Hell having them upside down and always wanted to know why commercial applications did that. Figured it was something stupid like ease of use for 3-prong plugs until reading comments here saying safety factor...still stupid as Hell IMO DIY 1 I didn't know, built in stripper & multi-gauge at that. Here's a fun fact; Puerto Rico doesn't use 14g wire or 15amp breakers😎
@@wowchad Yes, half the outlet is switched for table lamps. Not so common anymore. I always run 12 for my outlets and 14 for lighting. The built-in strippers are very lame and could potentially ring the wire...Check out the writing on an outlet. Is ground up really upside down? I always install ground down.
I'm a DIY - 4. I tend to work more with smart switches and outlets, which generally have the wires already attached. Not being an electrician, and less familiar with conventional electrical switches and receptacles, I'm rather cautious about determining which wires are hot, travelers, neutral and ground. BTW, I only do side-wiring on the conventional switches and receptacles and prefer push-in or lever connectors over wire nuts. Working with smart switches and outlets might make for an interesting video, since they can pose a different set of challenges.
DIY 2. Have been for 30+ years and I want to thank you for your videos. Point #3 about speed wiring the receptacles only once. I have never used that feature but it is good to know.
Ground down creates more stability, however, when useing a metal cover you should do ground up. That way if the plate becomes loose it hits the ground first.
@@wab18 5 years and never seen a short from a metal plate that dropped and hit the neutral and hot? I have several times. Most of what I worked with was places that required stainless steel covers for food grade requirements. I only worked as an apprentice for 4 years. So apparently you just lucked out. But I can speak for fact it does happen.
PRO: 1. Useful tips -- very nice. 2. Stick connections or "speed wiring" (in my experience) should be banned. It is the weakest connection of all and is the cause of most modern day residential wiring & receptacle issues. Just think about the overall actual contact point to point surface area verses the other two methods. Due to internal bite tab weakening over time; and thereby resulting in loose connections that cause internal arcing, burning, internal heating, low voltage/intermittant issues, and potential fire. 3. I prefer to strip the wire and loop around the screw without cutting the wire when wiring a string of receptacles or a gang of them for a single circuit. 4. Yes -- Ground Port Down is the preferred method to match most commercially molded angled plugs; however, Ground Port UP provides the strongest plug support and longest receptacle life. UP places the fulcrum pressure or weight of the plug (w-cable) towards the back of the receptacle while securing full face to face contact between plug and receptacle. I most often find receptacles that have broken faces between Ground Port and receptacle face edge due to Ground DOWN position. Any painted, cracked, or broken receptacle, switch, etc. is always a violation of the Electrical Code and must be replaced ... it will never pass inspection. 5. Do NOT forget the latest tamper proof receptacles that are meant to try and protect children from sticking things into the receptacle ports.
I worked in electronics most of my work career and I always think of the size of the conductor in a 20 amp fuse plus a safety factor. . The push tab doesn’t meet that criteria in my thinking. I also use a square drive bit to tighten the screws. I’m a DIYer that has built 3 houses in the last 20 years. Where I live building your own home doesn’t require inspections if a bank isn’t used. I get accused of over building by my friends in the trades. Ground down.
Thats funny considering the replacement for wire nuts is a push in connector just like the speed connector. If the wire is stapled to the stud in the wall appropriately what do you think some gremlin is going to pull on the wire. Even if it did come loose its inside a J box what could possibly happen? It could short to neutral or ground and pop a breaker, lions and tigers and bears oh my!
@@GregariousAntithesis Having had to rewire two homes I've lived in, I hate stapled wíre. It's so much easier to replace wire by attaching new wire to old and then pulling it through stop blocks, studs, rafters etc, without cutting holes or removing drywall of paneling. Stapled wire requires you to remove drywall, etc to replace it. Arrrgh!
@@libertypastor1307 by code General Cable Support Runs of NM cable must be supported at least every 54 inches. 1 They also must be secured within 12 inches of an electrical box that includes a cable clamp or within eight inches of a box or enclosure without a cable clamp.May 30, 2021. You should not have to be pulling new wire to begin with, what you are saying makes zero sense.
@@libertypastor1307 if you replacing wire in drywall covered walls, you fish tape new wire and abandon old, no staples involved. If you are having to rewire a whole house you should be removing the drywall and start with new everything.
Former electrician 1. Found the information helpful, useful and explained well. I wish you would have covered pig tails versus wiring in on one screw and out on the other screw for wiring multiple receptacles in a row. Many people don't realize the benefits of using pigtails instead of one screw incoming and other screw, on the same side, as outgoing to next receptacle. As obvious as it may seem, it can't be understated enough to turn all power off to the circuit in use and still checking the wires are infact not hot prior to any receptacle replacing. Also, it never hurts to mention breaker size as it relates to wire size. Finally, loose wires equal heat. And heat equals fire. Well done sir.
Almost forgot, you should also cover the significance of screw colors: brass screw hot wire(black), silver screw neutral wire(white) and green screw ground wire(bare or green). Just trying to help your viewers.
I live in Sacramento CA. My house was built in 1987 and every outlet was daisy chained. It took me awhile but I eventually rewired every single outlet.
Thanks for all the info. always great videos. I am DYI 3 . But i did not know anything about electricity, wires, and receptacles. I am learning every day thanks to your videos and tutorials.
Pro, 1. Besides their use for (half-switched) "outlets", a common usage is on a residential kitchen receptacle that the dishwasher and garbage disposal are plugged into. Only the hot side link is removed. A three conductor + ground "romex" cable, typically 14 gauge is used, with the neutral connected as normal at the distribution panel and each hot wire (black and red) wired to a to 2 pole circuit breaker with each pole connected to opposite sides of the 240 volt / 120 volt hot bus rails.
It would have been perplexing to me if someone isolated a duplex receptacle by breaking off the tab; would have thought it was a failure rather than intentional. Useful to know, as it might come in handy in the future to save on installing two separate receptacles.
That would work before title 24 requiring gfci and afci protection. Waste of $90 for a 2 pole afci/gfci breaker and main panels fill quickly doing that. Just put a 2 gang box with 2 $15 plugs. We run mc flex 12-3 to metal 2 gang box. This allows for a tandem breaker saving space and 2 afci/gfci receptacles. Also saves money and title 24 compliant. We do this at dryer/washer, garb disposal/dishwasher, and the 2 counter top circuits.
DIY 2 - In utility areas (shop, garage, laundry) I prefer to install receptacles in pairs with one ground up and one down. This allows for the use of any configuration plug.
DIY-1 Calling the thing on the wall an "outlet" is proper and descriptive. In the same sense as calling the power connector on the back of your computer is an "inlet". Love your videos.
Good to remind DIYers about the split receptacle. Once when I was a kid, I surprised my parents with upgraded Decora outlets to update the look in the kitchen. I wired the outlets exactly as it was in the older receptacles, but did not notice that several of the older receptacles had the split receptacle tabs removed. Well you can guess what happened next after I turned the circuit breakers back on: Sparks flew and the circuit breakers not only tripped but were broken after that. That's when I learned of the split receptacles. It was dangerous. Thank you for your excellent video.
You might have gotten away with it if both line sources went to the same side of the transformer leg. But it would seem that you shorted one leg to the other and slammed the 110 breakers with 240. BOOM or maybe ZAP! Sounds scary. I went to help someone hook up a kitchen sink disposal and failed to understand that the box had 2 separate power sources going into it. I stuck my meter in there and had someone flip breakers till I lost power. Then with the greatest confidence that the box was safe, I stuck my fingers in there to start moving thing around. ZAP!! I got a surprise shock from the still live second circuit, ouch!
DIY 9 - Beginning to do more and more DIY projects. Especially scary, venturing into the electrical wiring realm. Project 1, replace all fluorescent fixtures with LED fixtures. Long overdue. Just found your channel, EHR! Watched several videos. So clear, concise, and applicable to the things I need to learn. Thank you!
Regarding #10, a receptacle is still an outlet. The distinction is that "outlet" is not a descriptive term for product advertisement purposes. An outlet is defined by the NEC as "A point on the wiring system at which current is taken to supply utilization equipment.". So it's correct to call a receptacle an outlet, but many other things are outlets such as edison screw lightbulb sockets. Pro - 1 - but only because of previous videos!
DYI 3 wire stripper and nickel and dime trick. Most importaltly I learned not to reuse the fast wiring outlet. I have done that a number of times and the wire seemed snug but it could have been weakened. Gradually learned the other things over 60 years of home repairs. Great presentation
I use the Ears on the outlets for spacing, but NOT BY REMOVING THEM. I simply bend them down on the scored line as much as needed for boxes that are slightly or very recessed. They sit against the front edge of the box perfectly. Quick and easy depth adjustment. Try it! I always thought that’s what they were for. I didn’t know the wire strippers function. That’s a sweet design.
I put the ground facing up for a couple of reasons: 1. It holds the plug better; you’ll know this if you had a weak receptacle. 2. If something metal plate etc were to fall off of a nightstand and hit the plug it could lodge on the hot and neutral prong. Whereas if the ground prong is facing up it is less likely to happen. Thanks for the video, enjoyed it.
Although I've installed many outlets (receptacIes!), I knew maybe one of the facts covered in the video. I love the side-wiring method of wrapping the bare wire around the screw using the built-in hook. I've always struggled to make the J, but it looks like those days are over. I had no idea that speed-wiring was a one-time option; what a great thing to know. I've never seen the commercial receptacle that combines speed-wiring with clamping down the wire with the side-screw--that's for me from now on. And now I can explain to my wife why the beveled receptacles are superior-easier to plug into-although she will insist on the "Decora" (and I will comply). Thanks for this clear and helpful presentation.
please fella don't use the speed wire method...it's like playing Russian roulette with 5 cartridges in a 6 shot revolver! They are notorious for poor connections and melting themselves when used! The odds just are not in your favor believe me! Btw look for the hole on either side of your strippers that is a wire bending hole for making the hook and you probably have the strippers out and use them to strip the wire so bend the hook right after efficiency at its finest.
Diy and just replaced all 82 switches and receptacles with the Decora and every room has at least 1 USB lighted receptacle and even though it was expensive it's great to have a lighted, USB in every room and including the 3 bathrooms with also a lighted GFI. I would like to see more of what's available including smart receptacles and switches today. It has really improved the look over the old Ivory toggle style switches that was built in 1995. Great job on your videos
DYI - 2 - since I did my first install I was taught to use the "J" method therefore I never had any attraction to do the straight connection - did not have the confidence that would hold the wire (that is me only). Thanks for your time demonstrating this features.
DIY 1 - I didn't know there was a catch to help form the sheppard's 'hook' loop. Very handy :) I'm pleased to say I knew all the other tips though. I typically position the receptacle ground-down, which is pretty common in Canada. I know in the UK it's typical to install ground-up. One other tip about receptacles is the colour of the screws. Brass for the black (hot) wire and aluminum for the white (neutral) wire.
DIY 3 Regarding whether the ground should be up or down, whenever I’ve seen a right angle plug, it’s designed for the ground down position. Another item to consider is whether the ground should be to the left or the right when receptacles are installed laterally.
DIY, 1 - I didn’t know that speed wiring was a one-and-done feature. Your showing the inner workings and explaining why was very helpful and will make it stick!!!
I am a professional DIYer. Ok so not a professional however my dad was a general contractor and not only taught me but often had me assist his electricians. That being said I knew about back wiring and not much else. I have always used the hole in the wire stripper to form my loop on the wire and then fight to get it around the screw. I can't wait to try what I saw. On your previous video ground up or down, I don't know if anyone gave you reasons but my dad always taught me ground down because when you plug in a transformer style plug, he called them wall warts, if the ground is up the bulk of the plug is up and it wants to pull out of the socket. I had a commercial contractor tell me that ground up is correct for safety. He said basically if a thin metal object where to fall parallel to the wall and actually get between the receptacle and the plug if the ground is down it would rest on the hot and neutral prongs of the plug. To me this seems like such an unlikely scenario I am more concerned with the transforming plugs hanging correctly but maybe there is a situation out there where people are loosely hanging sheet metal on the wall above electrical outlets. You got me on that one.
My comment on ground up/down is similar -- but you have a second reason for "down". :) Note that sometimes there's a hole in the ground lug that can be used to make your loop.
NEC leaves it up to personal preference (of the installer or end user/property owner). However, Underwriters Laboratory (UL) only tests receptacles in the ground up position, so they are technically only UL Listed for use in that orientation. Does that matter? 🤷♂️ I install them so they match the ones visible around them or to meet the personal preference of whomever I’m installing them for. (I used to be dogmatic about the ground up, but found that to be of no real value.) I have found that most people prefer the ground down orientation. It just feels better/more comfortable to them usually without any other explanation. I agree. They look nicer that way, but it still bothers me because of the consensus of other reasons to put the ground up. In short, 🤷♂️. They work fine both ways (except for when the plug dictates ground down such as transformers, fridges, etc.) (Electrical contractor and professional homeowner)
I have seen a coin fall off of a dresser and land precisely in the prongs of a ground-down outlet behind the dresser. If it's going to be behind something like that, I install ground-up. If it's just in a random hallway or something, ground down.
@Penny Popper I agree, I prefer Ground Down because of the wall wart issue, they typically have a Ground Down orientation. Although, I usually use a short extension cord with multiple receptacles so that the bulk of the transformer is supported on the floor.
The reason for the outlet being upside down was in hospitals emergency rooms/in Porten rooms where any tools cannot fall and hit both of the top neutral and ground at the same time
I always prefer and recommend ground up. I was measuring in a bathroom once, and my tape measure fell over a long distance, and came into contact with a plug that wasn't plugged in all the way. Tripped the breaker and put two burn marks and semi holes in my tape measure (still usable, but now very fragile).
@@codyabernethy4086 I always put ground up. The ground pin is longer and holds the pos and neg in place. The outlets in the receptical loosen over time faster when installed ground down.
if you install ground up you're going to end up with p.o.'ed customers because their power bricks, nightlights, air fresheners, smart plugs and anything made since the turn of the century are designed for ground down.
home DIYer. knew 3 of these. I've tried to stay away from electrical because it's clear that I don't know a lot. Every video I watch on it, I learn something new that I never would have realized was important.
I'm a pro, over 20 years experience in the field, and 28 years in the electrical wholesale business. Everything you're showing your audience is spot on correct, and it's how I do it👍🏻
Ok : you a pro than you should have seen the push button light switches , knob and tube wiring , UF cable with out ground , and copper coated steel wire !!
Hey Darrin, is *T*W* W*!* FOS or does he make valid points? Thanks, -jb
Also, on a half hot do you have to break the hot and neutral or just the hot. Thx, -jb
@@bowersj Ok , I do make valid points And if you don't belive me look up "mobile home " electrical supplies " you will see the modular duplex receticals and wall switches ! I have a few of them ! if you look up old house wiring you should see the push button light switches ! And yes meny homes still use " Fuse Boxes "
Ok : Anybody who is a ( pro ) in Residential Wiring should be familure with 1) breaker pannels , 2) fuse boxes, 3) modular type duplex recepticals and wall switches, 4) alluinum wiring, 5) the push button wall switches, 6) UF cable without a ground , 7) copper coated steel wire, 8) nickle coated copper wire !! Also a pro should know 4 ways to feed both legs of a 220v ac curcuit !!
Excellent tutorial! I am a DIYr and have been doing electrical for over 40 years. I started learning when I was 10 and helped my dad. He would let me do all of the switches and outlets which I would leave hanging out so that he could review my work. What you are teaching is HUGELY valuable to all DIYrs. Great job and keep up the great work.
That is amazing!
Absolutely agree, this presentation is priceless!
Pro having been a licensed General Contractor and wiring hundreds of houses I wanted to comment that these videos are fantastic. For anyone whether replacing an outlet or doing inspection this is fantastic information. I recently purchased an older home (1955) build and am upgrading all of the electrical. It has been so very interesting to see all of the different ways people have wired outlets over the years! When going through apprenticeship I was trained to always put the ground down on a outlet.
16, trade school attending DIYer here, I knew of speed wiring (and the higher danger associated with it), side wiring (the standard for my class), but had never knew of back wiring being a thing as I haven't worked with commercial grade receptacles yet. Thankyou for the new information that we haven't covered in class, I'll definitely speak with my instructors for deeper understandings of some of the concepts you spoke of in the video, thanks mate!
DIYer here who didn't realize point no 3 that the speed wiring terminal was for a one time use only. I agree, I don't trust this feature and never use it. For item 4, never noticed the hook for bending the wire around the screw. For Item no 9, after working for Underwriters Laboratories for years, I was taught that receptacles should always be installed with ground prong toward the bottom so that if a plug begins to fall out of an outlet, the ground pin will be last to loose contact. This is also the reason why the ground pin on the plug is a little longer.
Speed wire reminds me of sharkbite plumbing fittings. The other ground pin view is install ground up so that if something falls down onto a loos plug, the ground pin is the first to touch instead of shorting between the pos/neg prongs.
I don't agree. A loose three prong plug can end up with its ground prong broken off. That won't happen with a ground up receptacle.
Hospital code 1990 ;ground hole on receptical was top of outlet ; if conductor fell on plug/ outlet breaker trip assured.Nurse at bedside wearing bracelet ,jewelry fell off wrist hit electricity- nurse burned before breaker tripped. That is the story as published.Amazing things happen with people and electricity.
But ground up incase the prongs are falling out of the receptacle and say a butter knife falls down on top of it all. The knife would hit the ground first.
Some electricians use ground up to signal that it's a switched outlet.
A combination of 2 of these points is Switched Outlets and Ground Terminal facing Up. In a previous home, nearly all receptacles were installed with ground facing down. The exception was the switched outlets. These were installed with ground facing up so that it was instantly identifiable as to which outlet was controlled by the switch, and it was always the top outlet of the upside down or ground up receptacle that was controlled by the switch. I found that to be very cool and helpful when we moved in.
i have also seen that when i was was younger. it made identification of the switched receptacle very easy and as you said the one that was switched was indeed always the top one.
1
This is one common identifying scheme, but as with a preference for ground up or ground down, there is no standard. I'll also note that switched outlets, a.k.a. half hots, are still common with some builders. What is no longer common is having ONLY a half hot in a room. I wired up lots of bedrooms with a three gang switch: one for the overhead light, one for the overhead fan, and one for the half hot(s).
As a general rule the half hot (and sometimes more than one) will go in a location where a bedside lamp would go, if in a bedroom.
45 years as a master electrician
Ground is down the world around.
@@MichaelClark-uw7ex - have you even seen a Schuko plug and outlet? It's one of the more common types, having been adopted in much of Europe. With Schuko, ground is generally up _and_ down.
Then there's the traditional Italian, sometimes still used in other countries such as Uruguay, where ground is in the middle.
In the United States, ground is usually up in commercial settings but down in residential settings, but it can also be left or right. There is no official requirement.
Pro 2. If you’re just switching half of the receptacle there’s no need to break the tab on the neutral side. Also, “speed wiring” or back stabbing as it’s commonly referred to is never a good idea, I’m glad you said that more than once, it’s worth repeating. I have been a licensed electrician for 35+ years and have repaired many overheated loose connections due to back stabbing.
Retired Pro. You don't like speed wiring but if you think about it there is nothing difference between speed wiring and when you plug something into the outlet. When you plug into a outlet it is just pressure holding the plug into the outlet just like speed wiring.
@@williambaker6630 when you plug something in, the blades and pin on the plug have a huge amount of surface area compared to the amount of wire that touches that little tab in the back of the outlet. Get close to the amperage rating for that outlet and it's gonna heat up where you backstabbed it. Because the plug blades are so much larger they won't. That's the reason older plug ends heat up. They've worn out and lost some of that surface area.
@@buckkruszewski1059 That is incorrect and you can see why in the video where he shows you the internals of the speed wiring setup. The opposite side from the clip makes full contact with the full length of the wire. If it was a over heating risk no company would risk including them in their design, as even one house fire could completely bankrupt them. The fact that virtually every receptacle made includes them is a testament to their safety.
It is really incredible that it is still an acceptable (approved) method, being that is so universally not recommended. I have NEVER heard 'speed wiring' to be recommended.
Are wagos pushin connectors equivalent to backstabbing?
DIY - 1. I had a custom home built years ago and the electricians oriented switched receptacles with the ground up so they are easily identified. I loved this idea as a best-practice and applied it to subsequent remodel projects I've done. Keep these great videos coming!
That way IS marginally safer for unlikely accidents.
My Virginia family home built in 1963 was the same and it is very useful to figure out if it is switched.
DIYer, I didn't know anyone those. Now I do, thanks. Great video BTW
I used to be a pro I went to electrical trade school and learned all this there over 30yrs. ago. It's nice to see someone informing others the right terminology. NEVER EVER USE the quick/ speed wiring I've seen them fail and cause more problems then there worth.
The worse troubleshooting call was stab-lock plug with aluminum romex wire behind a bookshelf! I was a electrical contractor since 1985, I am retired now, but I used to go out on service calls when I worked for someone. The wire had burned up the wall, but had put itself out.
I've seen houses burned down because of speed wiring and improper insulation installation.
@@kingjames4019 I never used one, we only used spec grade.
AGREE! Not only are they poor, they really can mess you up in troubleshooting as just the act of removing the receptacle from the box can cause the circuit to complete again. As a matter of course when I see the speed method used, I rewire to at least the side method.
The speed wire is horrible. As you push the receptacle back in it makes the wire disconnect. Then it doesn't work. Remove it, and then the spring re-engages. DIY-2.
Pro in HVAC and Constrution while I’m not a licensed electrician- being in the fields I am for the number of years, Ive picked up a wealth of knowledge in most facets associated with most areas associated with construction. (3) stripper, bending Shepard’s hook and insulation gage. Vid was nicely done , though it did a great job of explaining all the features but kept it simple to understand for those with little experience. While I’ve been doing construction over 35 years I’m a big believer in continuous education since material and techniques are continuously changing which prevents anyone from knowing everything about everything, channels like this are great to keep up with both.
@@aztecabrnsoyyo1167 it certainly doesn’t hurt having me around when it comes to anything home related. Just don’t let me near your car, not so much lol.
DYI Dude! You just fixed my living rooms "mystery switch." My home was built in '61. We bought in' 90. No idea why the living room switch didn't work?! Now I do. I fixed it thanks to you. You are da man!
Hahaha, nice!
Love the people that lived in a house for 20 30 years and just figured out what the switch did in the room. Rented an apartment with a switch many many years ago that had such a switch. I plugged a light in every outlet to figure out that the switch worked one of them. And no I didn't figure out it on my own I mentioned it to my grandfather and he told me it probably worked an outlet.
@@robertsmida9601 I still have a couple of mysterious outlets too and a room I've never been in. Long story...
I have a switch above my kitchen sink that will turn off the ceiling fan in the living room
DIY. Watched my father DIY literally everything like an expert. Excellent video for me. I am changing all receptacles in house on my own as a 62yo female. Love it!
PRO 1, Almost 30 years of wiring and I never heard of the "nickel-dime" sizing technique. That will be very useful for my customers. Thank you for that! FYI it's not just a receptacle, it's a DUPLEX receptacle! Great video!!!
Watch the entire video. At 8:46 he shows and says duplex for a duplex outlet.
Aye aye kapin'
After 30 years I'd hope you can tell the difference just by looking at it.
AND breaking the tab off makes it a split circuit not switched
RIGHT!! ME TOO
Learned that when I was an electricians helper, in the 70s, went on to get my journeyman's license and then my Master electricians license, and at almost 70 years old I'm still learning, I love learning and helping others to learn more. Great field to work in , but you have to keep up with the changes.
Dont get me started on the “Smart” plugs they have now.
I study Spaceweather.. May 20 2021 was the 1 00 year mark of a major solar storm..Because early electric use was DC the energy followed the lines undamped.. fires began from the intensity of the current..I remember unplugging electric use during storms many times.. then AC was standard.. question is how to protect electric from large spikes?
@@spaceweather2020 … they make whole panel surge suppressors now but if your panel is very old they might not be available for that. They might be built in now (not sure) but mine looks like a double pole breaker, recommended to be placed nearest the feeder wires. Luckily my panel could spare the two spaces.
DIY 3. When I replace outlets, I do ground down, unless it's a switched outlet. Those I do ground up, so they are easily identifiable
That is an excellent idea. Now I just need to go back and find the receptacle I forgot to remove the little jumper on. Then I can switch it ground up...........
Diy 0 not known 10 known
Ground down, because some wall-warts and power cords are made for the weight and cord to go down. For example my UPS cord is a right-angle plug, and it's better for it pointed down towards the floor. I also have a big wall-wart that's also right-angle with the body, and the cord that comes out of it, also pointed towards the floor. Pointed up the weight would cause it to pull away from the receptacle. Another thing some receptacles come with a neon bulb indicating that outlet is energized.
My house (from mid 80s) was wired with "ground hole up", but I've flipped a few for reasons cited here - big wall warts and hair dryers with GFI in plugs that just work better with cord going down instead of up.
Where I live grounds are up in hospitals and medical offices etc. Other than that, I look around at existing recepticles to see how they are installed.
DIY 9. I've replaced a lot of receptacles and I always bent the shepherds hook with pliers. I thought that there must be an easier way. Thanks for showing it to me. Also, I emphatically agree about speed wiring. I lived in a house for 30 years that was totally speed wired and I had to rewire a lot of receptacles while living there. Most were malfunctioning when I moved into the house which, at the time, was only 3 years old. Thank you.
Good feedback. I've also gone back to outlets that I side-wired 10-15 years ago, and found that even those tend to loosen with age/use (maybe in part due to the softness of copper wire). So I assume speed-wired outlets will be much worse and there is no way to "retighten" those connections.
DIY 5.
Speed wiring a common issue I have come across when having to do electrical repairs of a former home owner DIYer.
I suspect most of the problems are the result of failing to understand that it is a one time use only feature.
Great video, keep ‘em coming.
DIY-4. The built-in wire bending is a GREAT one that I had no idea about. That would have saved me a ton of time. Thanks!
Agreed
I would never use it, my dad taught me how to bend the wire using electrician's pliers. Out of respect for my dad I will continue doing so. Long nose pliers is much better for bending copper wire. But each one has their own views which don't make either one more right.
The built in wire stripper is a new one on me. I thought that was to make a better ground contact on metal plates.
@@lb3406 plus, odds are there was not enough lead left to use the built in bender. (I just fix stuff around the house, not a pro)
@@bmxerkrantz it's ok you don't have to be a pro to change a duplex outlet. Just follow the video, black on the gold color screw and white on the silver color screw. Green or bare wire on the green color screw. Make sure the unused screws are tightened down. Stay away from using the quick connect terminals unless it's the type that the screw tightens the wire. You will find them on more expensive outlets. Also make sure the old outlet didn't have any tabs taken off the ones where the screw terminals are. Those are split circuit outlets like for lights and other dedication circuits.
DIY for 50 yrs. I am an electronics tech, retired, so I have always been comfortable around things electrical. I have worked with some high voltage that will fry you quickly if you're not careful. 3 things I learned from the video: Starting the hook in the wire using the outlet itself to start it; never use the speed wiring (I don't); and turning over the receptacle to indicate a switched outlet. Well done video, clear and informative.
BTW, I have a hard time getting the receptacle to release wires that have been plugged into the speed holes. Difficult to find a tool that will fit in there well. I know you can cut them off, but often there is already barely enough wire.
If you twist the wire back and fourth wile pulling on it it will come right out. What I do is after removing the two screws holding the receptacle start twisting the receptacle left and right wile pulling on it and the wires will start popping off one at a time.
@@toadsauce8091 ...."while!"
DIYer 5,6,7 - love these kinds of informational vids as well as the how-to’s. I’ve always been someone who needs to know the how AND the why. Knowing the “why” helps a lot in figuring out what to do when I run into something I wasn’t expecting.
DIY 7, I’ve done a few small electrical repairs in my home, but watching and learning here makes me feel more confident doing more - really enjoying your diy-er videos!
Pro 1 didn’t know about the wire stripper. But then I’ve only been doing it for 48 years, lol.
Same here but I am a noob at only 41 years.
As a pro I can attest that a wire stripper is typical carry tool(ergo: no need for supply type)
We dont have Eaton product in my area. But i have forgotten more important stuff in the last 40+ years.
Damn and I thought I was an old timer at 36 years in the trade. 🤣
I would be embarrassed telling somebody that. Retired IBEW 292 40+ years
I’m a DIY’ER and I thought I knew pretty much everything about wall “receptacles” there was. But you taught me some more new things that I did not already know, that I needed to know. Thank you very much. Now I also have learned how to add “receptacles” anywhere I need one. Been needing an extra couple, too. Makes me happy to learn new things.
Lol a diy'er thinking he knew pretty much everything 💀
This video is NOT all you need to know to make changes to your electrical system safely (adding "outlets" for "lights" or whatever).
Pro 1. Didn't know the nickel/ dime thing, but its pretty easy to tell the difference once you've worked with it for a while. Also jackets are color coded now white, yellow, orange but when I started everything was white.
I've seen the thing about the built in wire stripper, but I have never tried it myself and don't know anyone who has.
I was also taught that the two ears top and bottom can be broken off and used as shim washers to level the outlet to the wall.
I think the ground up/down was more of a regional thing, at least 20 or 30 years ago. I like to put them ground down because some polarized wall wart type power supplies tend to unplug themselves if the ground is up.
DIY - Learned 4 things. Using nickel/dime to determine wire size, tab on side for switched outlet, using groove to bend my j hook, concave front to guide plug into slots. I have a bunch of receptacles to replace & I'm going to try the bending thing. That was the most useful tip. Thanks.
I'm a DIY'er for over 50 years and knew all of what you spoke of. Nevertheless, this was a very concise and well explained video, great job. One more fact worth mentioning is another difference between the standard duplex and decor styles and that is the lack of a center screw hole on the front of the decor outlet. Having a center hole, which usually holds the trim plate on, is a necessity when attaching external receptacle expansions, whether it's to increase the number of devices that can be connected or in combination with night lights and USB outlets. Using the center hole screw that comes with most of these will help ensure they stay firmly attached when unplugging power cords.
?
That makes sense I have a duplex type with six outlets and both grounds and prongs are used I don't like when the manufacturer cuts corners and has only one plug for all them outlets at least mind only have 3 outlets per plug. I do use the center screw when using these adapters. Between two plugs and the center screw the adapter stays plugged in. 73
I replaced 6 outlets in 3 rooms that had mystery switches. Now they work correctly! My wife is so excited I figured it out. She just doesn't understand it took me 30 years to do it. I blame beer.
Finally someone honest. I like that.
Beer. The cause of, and solution to All of life's problems
Beer is never the problem to anything, it is the solution!
😂
You’re proof that you’re never to old to learn. Congratulations!
DYI 8, now... was in new construction, residential, for about 5 years 30+ years ago. Never did any electrical work. This is a great info video! You have removed a lot of unwanted "fears" of the basic with electricity. Thank you. I am now a subscriber. Great job!
Pro 3.
Nickel trick (although I’ve done so much I intuitively know the difference 14-12.
Flat vs concave.
Wire stripping function of mounting. Don’t think I’ll ever use it.
Instead of using the tab on the outlet to form the crook I use the hole near the fulcrum of the strippers. For me much quicker.
Great video. Please keep ’em coming. Doesn’t matter how long we’ve done it or how smart we are we should and can still learn something new every day.
This video was not for Electricians, but for the common individual. I thought that you did a great job.
Sir, your skill level and number of unknown facts is missing. The man exhibited superior ability and passion for electrics by producing this channel. Did you give a thumbs up? Subscribe? Go ahead and come back in and take care of these points of discrepancy, that we might honor you as an elder. Thank you, sir.
DIY / PRO-in-a-pinch --- 3
There is a big difference between electronics and electrical.
False. He said the pros don't even know. Which would tell tradesmen there might be something here to see...there is not
I’m a DIY’er, but I have no idea how I wound up here. I was watching space related videos- but hey, your videos are getting recommended! Watched the whole thing and I only knew one.
Great job explaining. As a "pro" and HS instructor, I teach ground up. The reasoning came from a Leviton rep who explained that if either the plate was loose or the plug was loose in the receptacle, you are not exposing the hot spade. Also, the ground socket does not crack with the mass of the middle of the receptacle, supporting a three-pronged cord unlike if you installed ground down. I think we all have seen a lot of receptacles with the bottom of the ground socket broken away due to a loose or heavy cord\plug.
DYI here for about 50 years. Several years ago I was a new home warranty technician and later a draftsman/designer for a residential builder. I have always done my own home wiring including repairs, additions, etc. Was nice to learn a couple extra things about receptacles. Thanks for the video. The review of the other items was nice too.
My dad added several outlets in each bd-rm and also had a couple of them connected to a wall switch. He has the ones that go to the switch with the ground up, and the others are ground down. This makes it easy to know which are going to the wall switch. He was a brilliant man.
that is a clever idea i hope you don't mind if i use it
Pretty common in new builds in Ohio at least. The last two "new" houses I had, they installed the switched outlets "ground up" and the rest "ground down."
my parents home when I was younger had all the switch receptacles with the ground up, that was in CO. very good way to identify the switched receptacles. actually just bought a house and planned on turning the receptacles that were on switches upside down just to help better identify... always a pain when you go plug in a charger or light and wonder why it isn't working then quickly remember you gotta turn the switch on lol
Ya'll can't just remember that shit?
I use a black marker to color the half that is switched.
DIY 2 - Wasn't aware of the stripper, nor the nickel/dime wire gauge technique, though I've been around enough to differentiate between 12g and 14g by sight/feel. Nice video. Thanks!
67 year old female, DIY... Right now, there is an electrician (son's father in law) at my home doing some work. My husband and son were quite impressed that I knew most of what you were demonstrating. I tried to show them on a receptical, but, they made me google it to prove I didnt make it up! Thank you for backing me up! Great video!
Pro. I got another. The black side goes on the "Gold"/brass-colored screws and white on the silver ones.
edit: Decided to put quotes around the word gold and add brass. I know it's brass. I just put what the common person would call it.
Very important indeed. As now most devices are using neutral as safety ground or earthing, without using a ground pin.
Is the green screw bonded to the 'silver' screws? Why is that? What is double insulated? What's the difference between bonded and grounded? Many out there know so much about electricity, and it's fundamentals, is there any wonder why there are so many electrical fires. I can tell everyone electricity has no conscience, it's always looking to ground it's self, and everything works on a short basis. Not all electricians are really electricians...
Pro knew 8. They been color coding the screws for decades.
About the ground up/down. Ground up is a safety factor. Most generally electrical wall outlets or electric device receptacles are installed around one foot off the floor. So physically you are bending or squatting while your are plugging a device into the receptacle. A person is more likely to be subjected to a fall in such a position. So I ask, " if you were to loose your balance while plugging something. Which rather you choose to fall on; the hot and neutral prongs or the ground prong...............................
I would choose the preceding.
It feels great having E120 i15 P1800 @ 60hz flowing through your internals.
@@undeserved1781 Is the green screw bonded to the 'silver' screws? No. Why is that? So that you don't have objectionable current on the EGCs. What is double insulated? If you are meaning with cord connected tools/appliances; they have the outer casing that users make physical contact with insulated from the internal parts(some of which are current carrying). What's the difference between bonded and grounded? If something it bonded, then it is connected in a way to establish an electrically conducive path to the thing that it is bonded to. When something is grounded, it is connected to earth or bonded to an electrical path that is connected to earth.
@@MrBluelock Cool, I've done electrical work 45 years, it's good to know some are carrying on with knowledge.
Pro. I'm a licensed electrician. I did not know about the wire stripper. I've got a new one for you to add. It's something that I started noticing often enough to think it's a real thing, but I've never heard it from any other electrician and I've asked a lot about it. I even asked all the electricians in an electrical CE class. It's regarding switched receptacles. At one point I had to do a LOT of home inspections and that's when I started putting this together. If you walk into a room with a wall switch, but there is no ceiling light, look for a receptacle that is upside down. It's easier to spot if it is grounded, but newer ungrounded versions have one "fat" blade so the receptacle is "polarized" and I've spotted them that way too. The upside down receptacle will be connected in whole or in part to the switch. If the receptacles have been changed out you are much less likely to find this. At least twice I've had a homeowner tell me that they had a switch but didn't know what it went to. I'll do a slow turn in the room and point to an outlet, and sure enough, half of it is switched. Far more often, when someone says that, the receptacles have been changed and the terminal bridge has not been removed on the switched receptacle.
Another one, did you know that the terminal bridge on a 15Amp is rated to carry 15Amps? It is a code violation to daisy-chain 15Amp receptacles in 20Amp circuit by using only the side terminals for the circuit connections. You must complete the circuit using (typically) wire nut connections that include a "pigtale" the supplies that outlet, but does NOT carry the load of the overall circuit.
Another one, the "ears" on the yoke of the receptacles are designed to break off so that the outlet can be mounted more "flatly" when installed in a "rework" or "cut in" box that has a flange that goes on the outside of the wall. Also, the ears used to always be round (years ago) and electricians would save them because they were free #6/8 washers useful sometimes when an old box wasn't quite flush or plumb on the front.
The longer I sit here the more I think of. All outlet have some sort of wafer or disk to retain the #6 mounting screw. In the last few years you may have noticed that one of the #6 screws has a springy metal retainer instead. Screw retention is a secondary benefit of something designed for another purpose. This is a "self-grounding" receptacle. The idea is that if you have a metal box, you ground the metal box and the brass-colored spring is rated for providing the ground connection. I'm not sure I'm a fan of this feature. Just like "quick wiring" a receptacle using the barb-spring. BTW, when we find that (quick-wire) feature used, we call it being "stabbed in the back" or someone "stabbed the home-owner in the back."
Thanks for the info Ed. Informative. Can you daisy chain 15A if you’re using 20A outlets?
Thanks
@@benmughal - yes, you can daisy chain 15 amp circuit to 15 amp outlets and 20 amps to 20 amp circuit, you can oversize wire, receptacles and conduit but it’s expensive, but not a protection device’s.
My entire 2003 built house used the stabbed in the back method on ALL outlets and switches. I replaced them all (with decora, BTW). They also mounted the front of the electrical boxes flush with the stud, not mounted to be flush with the drywall. UGH on all the spacers I used.
@@benmughal you cannot daisy chain receptacles at all by code.
I had a previous homeowner backstab a pigtail off of a GFCI. He used the wrong stripper size and eventually the hot wire broke at the surface of the hole, but it still touched enough to deliver current with a much higher amp pull. The pigtail fed my refrigerator outlet, high amp and constant start/stop. My electrical bill was much higher than my neighbors with similar family size. After a very long troubleshoot of the whole house I found that flaw. My electric bill dropped $70 a month just from that one repair. I assumed it may have damaged the refrigerator so I replaced it and saved another $20 a month after that.
I guess it's possible that the fridge was trying to start constantly and only succeeding sometimes and the starting surge was using the extra current? But that's a lot of juice and if the outlet had been consuming it, I think it would have been burned to a crisp>
DIY 6. Never knew the little hook to help bend the wire around the screw. Very helpful. Also didn't know that backstabbing was a no-no. Very helpful. Thank you!
Experienced electrician and design engineer here and you have a great video here. Pro-0 level (knew all about these receptacles but always look to learn something new).That nickel dime thing is kinda cool. Thanx for that. I wanted to fill you in though about that "quick" wire hole method and why to not use it. If you use that to wire, you run the risk of connection failure and cause arcing and could cause a fire with it. That connection is illegal in a lot of jurisdictions and if you're in one and that caused the fire, your insurance won't pay off. As oft times it happens, people overload receptacles which cause heat. That heat causes that connection to deform and takes away the spring pressure of the tab. It will eventually fail as a connection and often arc. I've seen wires pull out of those connections on their own and cause a fire. Just put the extra time to make good connections. The life you save could be your family and it could save you a whole lot more trouble getting that insurance payment for your fire loss.
DIYer 2 and 8. I’m a maintenance technician at a children’s hospital and always have my ground up on metal boxes because if the outlet cover becomes loose from use it trips to ground immediately. Great video, thanks for making it.
Yes, glad other people properly ground. I am DYIer i used to do farm barns.
The Canadian electrical code has diagrams of receptacle configurations, and standard 15 (and 20) amp 120v receptacles are shown with the ground at the top.
@@robbbenedict
Pretty sure the standard for 120v 15, 20A circuits is ground down.
However large aperture 30A and above the cords with 90deg plugs have ground at the outside. These outlets maybe oriented ground up so the cord with 90deg plug hangs down.
90deg plugs have the advantage of being able to slam the plug into the outlets to get a good connection.
The orientation of higher Amperage circuits is planning for safe attachment of the "short" cord to the motor or other load.
Why not wire these motors direct. Servicing safety. Unplug the cord when servicing, and the breakers are not insight.
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:NEMA_simplified_pins.svg
I subscribe to the safety aspects of orienting the ground at the top when possible, though note that certain types such as range outlets require orienting differently due to connecting plugs.
ALSO...those little rings (looks like mouse ears) are scored so they can break off easily. They are like washers, and can be used as spacers to help position the outlet flush with the wall if the box is set in too far.
Now there's one I didn't know and wish I had. Thanks.
Thank you Party… , you also taught me something new.
Yes you can use the rings as spacers, but they make spacers just for that purpose. When using an " old work" box, you break off the tabs so the device is set back closer to the wall. Sometimes if you dont Break off the rings, the cover plate will not fit flush, or tight against the wall.
That's not correct. There are plastic bushings for that - the 1/16” you'll get from the ears is not useful.
What those are _actually_ for is removal for use in single-gang or cut-in boxes
What I always use to us was I would buy a roll of clear tubing the size of the screws, ( I don't remember the size, to many years ago for an old fart in a nursing home). Cut of a piece and put it on the screw and as you screw in the plug the tubbing will compress and you stop when it is flush. No screwing around with washers. It makes it very quick and easy. That is what I liked. Making up tricks to make things quick and easy. Hmm!! Quick and easy. Sounds like the girls way back in school!! Yes old farts did it too!!
And never speed wire. Real men do not speed wire. That is for the girly men that do not know how to do it right. I wonder what idiot invented speed wire and just what was he thinking. If you are to lazy to bent the wire and screw it you should be in the kitchen baking. A speed one was just for in the back of the 57 Chevy before the cops pulled up and lite you up with a flashlight.
DIY-er Trained electrician but never worked in the industry. Got into sales my whole life but my training has stayed with me all these years. I like the ground UP!
DIY - 3
I was always taught “Ground end down”. When I wired my house, I did a bunch of research and found that the ground side should be up due to safety concerns (e.g. metal plate touching the ground first). After living in the house for a short period of time, I regretted not following my training. I found that all of the low-profile, 3-pronged plugs were designed for “ground end down”. When plugging these wires into my receptacle, the wire went up and then looped back down, due to gravity. The causes extra stress on those cables and resulted in premature failure. I have actually rotated the receptacles in the common places that those 3-pronged plugs are used (e.g. by the bathroom sink). But now I have some receptacles with ground up and some with ground down, and that, my friend, drives me crazy!!! 😖😖😖
Thanks for the video!
Do you live in Chicago or belong to local 134? The grnd dwn is a union thing even though it is incorrect.
I believe the receptacle manufacturers put the ground down because it looks like a scary face which may help keep the children away
3 I did not know thanks
Last I checked there is no code requirement either way.
Yeah. Just a civilian here but I don't understand the ground end up logic for many reasons, one of which you mentioned but another is that you can see the prongs that might get electrified before fully inserted if the ground end is down but if the ground end is up you see the ground plug better than the actual electrified prongs which isn't as ideal.
DIY (but father was a senior field engineer for GE). I learned something from every one of the ten things. Thank you!
DIY 7. Ground down makes more sense when you have a plug with the big rectangular transformers, as upsidedown they aren't very sturdy in the receptacle and tend to fall out.
There's a few reasons why you might want the ground on top, transformers are 1 reason, directional plugs are another and the safety aspect is another. That's all I can think of at the moment.
The ground was originally down because of flooding they want the water levels to hit the round first, of course if flooding’s that high that probably your last worry lol
Ground up in this area means switched. Easy to look at and see right away
As a Licenced Electrician from Scotland/UK and also in Canada (Master Red Seal 309A), there are good reasons for ground up (I've yet to see a really good one for ground down other than habit).
The principle of ground up is that if the plug is partially pulled out, in a ground down scenario, anything falling into that gap (like a metal knife) would cause a short between live & neutral. Ground up in the same scenario would be completely safe.
In a similar vein, if you're installing your outlets (receptacles - yes I was paying attention) sideways, then it is safer to install with the (wider) neutral slot at the top, as opposed to the live.
That said, there's nothing in the Codes to dictate these methods in North America. #StaySafe
@@DavidCraig1965 diy.3
Pro with 20+ years of residential wiring and aware of 9 of the tip except for the receptacle stripping feature -- I would never suggest anyone use it. We all thank you for your well-done DIY tutorials, I would trust sending my friends and customers your videos.
DIY 2. I would LOVE for you to share the dangers of "daisy chaining", especially with speed wiring. Most people don't understand how dangerous a fire hazard it is. Pigtails only. In my house, every Outlet I rewired I changed to a Decora Outlet. That way I could instantly tell whether I had fixed the outlet or not.
Excellent tip there. I've changed a few in a townhouse I own and now don't remember which ones. Probably worth doing. Or else go in and check them all. I have a few weeks with it empty where I may just do that as well as fix a few which don't sit flush with the faceplates.
Can you explain daisy chaining?
@@coeneschamaun1735 Basically, you are running the circuit THROUGH the receptacles instead of just the wires. What this does is make the receptacle a "point of failure" which could break the circuit and it also means you are introducing a lot more resistance to the circuit (compared to just twisting wires together). Twisting the wires together, then running a pigtail to the receptacle means that the wires will maintain the circuit even if the receptacle fails or is broken. (DISCLAIMER: I am NOT an electrician, just an old, retired IT guy who has had to "wire" a lot of computer shit together over the years...any electricians out there may have a better description).
@@donknowles2531 I also am not an electrician, and I dont think I could have explained it better. Examples of points of failure would be if a wire came loose, everything "down stream" of that receptacle would lose power, or (as was the reason I rewired my moms basement to have all pigtails) It can burn the first outlet of the chain, which leads to a fire hazard. Also an added benefit to pigtails would be an easier install of the receptacle in the box, as its easier to push back 3 wires over trying to push back 9 if the receptacle is the "junction" of two branches and one feeder
@@donknowles2531 - Buying Decora outlets buy box is cheap. Last time I bought a box it was $14 for 10. Not bad. 😊
Pro 1. That using the outlet to bend the wire in the side post was a amazing piece of information thanks
When i was shown that, it felt life changing haha
Diy #3
Same!!!
Pro. 0
Dyi, didn't know 5-8. I don't care what the pros say. It makes a lot more sense to call it an outlet. It lets you take power out. Receptacle means receive power. I'm sorry but my outlets don't receive power from my plugs.
I am a DIY electrician. In '03 I confered with a state inspector to see how much of my shop I could wire myself to save a huge amount of money. He said I could do it all myself as long as it was done correctly and to code. I had studied a few books on semi-advanced wiring situations and mapped out romex runs, switches and outlets. When I was almost done, I called for the inspector to come check my work. He pointed out a few simple things that needed corrected. Three weeks later, I called him back. His comment to me was for an amature I had done a first class job. In fact better than some licenced pros. I made sure the breaker box was clearly labled as to where the wires would go. After they hooked up my power, a neighbor came over to ask me to wire up his hot tub. I had to refuse because I was not a qualified electrician and I didn't want to get into trouble. I think I have known about most of these things regarding duplex outlets. And I always side wire for safety. Bob
This inspired me do to do my own shop and now I am in the hospital. Rick.
@@UA-camuser1aa Well, I've stabbed myself with a screw driver. Scraped my fingers and knuckles, but always make sure the power is off on whatever it is I'm working on. I'm replacing bearings on my old 50 yr old PC router. Looks easy enough but must remember to unplug the machine , HA HA!!
@@UA-camuser1aa well you would not believe the hassle, the cirular holders and clamps I had to come up with and engineering apparatices to make taking tese two pieces apart. I borrowed an eight pound slide hammer from a co-worker and wacking on this puppy would still not bust this loose. I'm afraid this router will have to be sent to the great gunny bag in the sky, where in I will be purchasing a brand new router motor from Porter Cable -- alas, easy come, easy go as that is the phrase on wheel of fortune.
DYIer. I bought an older home years ago with the understanding that some of the rooms had to be rewired. I began with the advice and help of a pro friend and lots of reading material. I was able to successfully wire the home and when inspected I was told that I had done a good job and that it met code. Fast forward 28 years and another home onto which I've added another room. I am ready to run the electrical switches and recepticals. I must admit, I'm feeling a little overwhelmed. Your channel has been immensely helpful. I especially like how you stress the safety aspects of working with electricity. Unlike rewiring existing recepticals and switches, I do not have a dedicated power source. Is it possible to run wiring by extending the power from existing recepticals in the older parts of my home, to new switches or recepticals in the addition, to power LED type lighting?
@@jamesradcliffe2496 You need to respect a LOT more rules in code than the old days. Do yourself a favor and buy a homeowner's guide from Home Depot for your area, and spend a few nights reading it and mapping out your install. Pay special attention to spacing, device counts, receptacle box types and wire gauges. It's no longer simple.
DIY guy here. knew most of this but you pointed out the fine points that make me confident I have done it properly. About 3 things I did not know at all like the built in stripper and leviton recepticals
My house does ground down except for switched receptacles - they are ground up so it is easy to tell that they’re a bit different.
Thant's smart. I moved into my 1974 built house in 2005 and had 4 switches that didn't do anything and I had no idea what outlets they related to.
@@JCLJN I have a ranch built in 71, and wiring makes no sense to me. If the BR receptacle goes out or (GFI) trips then the living room goes out also as one example. Also if one receptacle goes out the whole circuit goes out. I learned this from the first time it happened and I needed to call and electrician.
@@bobbyd6680
Generally, to save money in wiring and breakers, since most people are not going to turn on all of the high amp devices they have plugged in at the same time, they will wire all of the receptacles in one large room or two smaller rooms together in parallel and power them from one breaker.
So if the breaker is cutting off current, you have either installed something that overloads the breaker when other devices are running at the same time or, since the house is 50 years old and the breaker is probably just as old, the breaker has weakened with age and can not carry the amperage it was rated to carry anymore.
I noticed many condos put the GFI protected receptacles ground up.
In Germany we only have the speed wiring method. The ar no screws anymore. We do not need a screwdriver to remove them. There are buttons you can press with your finger. These buttons also prevent to press too deep. So after removing the wire it is safe to reuse it, because you can not damage the speed wiring. Greetings from Germany.
I've used German wiring methods many times for control wiring in industrial control panels. We prefer the through type (screw down) terminal blocks over the "speed wiring" quick connect type, because of the high resistance connection and poor reusability. However CSA/UL have a much higher level of safety than CE, and you can tell just by looking at the cheap European plastic equipment vs the quality metal equipment we use. European systems also do not provide the air space to dissipate heat (box fill) that north American systems do.
NEMA is much better quality than IEC.
@Green Mamba Games "Americans are loathe to spend money on things that are logical and safe" ... really? What is the insinuation here? US building standards, particularly electrical / NERC are far more strict in the United States than they are in the whole of Europe. Europe and the US follow a similar model. The EU sets a blanket standard that the individual countries must work within. The Federal government sets some regulatory standards the all states must meet at a minimum, but most states have exceeded these requirements. Homes in South Florida example are made of solid concrete... literally built like military bunkers of the 1950s. They also have windows that can withstand a projectile at 125mph and not pierce or break the windows.
People in Europe can violate code restrictions as much as Americans can violate code restrictions. Like, I really don't know where you come off with this. Have you ever lived in a foreign country and seen some of the things they've done? In Afghanistan... if the home even has electrical in it, they use whatever wiring and gauge is available. Literally, white, black, green... doesn't matter... it can all be used for hot, ground, or neutral... regardless... this is what many 3rd world countries do.
Doesn't Germany use 240V? I couldn't imagine the catastrophic failure that would happen with US engineered receptacles. German engineering is way better. That's why I bought an Audi. All the new American cars are already rusting when there less than a decade old. 😆 And we say Chinese made is crap.
@@allenhoekstrajr Germany is a part of Europe - most, if not all areas is running 230volts AC
@@allenhoekstrajr Yes we use 240V with max of 16A. And in Germany the only American car you see is sometimes the Dodge Challenger and very often the RAM 1500. The 2500 doesn't fit in any Parkingslot xD
As someone that has used various electrionic devices over the years with transformers that plug into the wall, ground down is what you are expected to have. My house has gound up and it makes plugging some things in not work well, such as heavy duty UPS systems that have plugs designed to run partly along the wall are very annoying to use when the cord is going up instead of down
I was about to say the same. My house is ground up and it is a major pain.
I do ground up as a DIYer (3) and I noticed certain things are like that. The reason I do "ground up" is I used to work in a government nuclear reactor and that is how they had them. This is why I'm surprised at the comments on "ground down" for commercial. I'm selling this older house which I have replaced every receptacle in and I think I may change that in the future.
I think I will also pay the extra for the commercial receptacles since I really like the clamping of the wire.
I am familiar with the ground up reason. I am also familiar with the complaint of ground up plugs falling out of CHEAP receptacles. I say CHEAP because the lack of clamping force of cheap receptacles is why the plug wants to fall out. Change the receptacle to a commercial grade. Problem solved.
What is interesting is that 6-50 plugs and receptacles are meant to be ground up. That is a 240v 50A setup which is pretty much standard for smaller welders and plasma cutters. Most available plugs are right angle and the cord goes down, or opposite the ground pin. My Miller Mig and plasma are straight plugs but the cord sticks way out vs. Right angle. I can't cut them off because they are dual voltage plugs. The hypertherm 65 came without a plug since it runs single or 3 phase and my miller 330abp tig is hard wired to a 100 amp circuit since it draws 104 amps at 230 volts. The 6-50 receptacle is common for residential garages and commercial shops with portable welding equipment.
1 month of my apprenticeship and I'm a 33 year old looking to learn a new trade and electrician is my dream job I love it , thanks for the info helped me a lot
DIY 3.
I prefer ground facing down since that's what practically all power bars, UPS and other stuff with flush plugs are designed for, otherwise the cable shoots up and that puts unnecessary extra stain on everything.
That's true, it's literally assumed in flat plug designs.
I’m a master electrician/contractor with 21 years in the trade.
The reason that receptacles are sometimes “upside down” in hospitals is in case the cord end plugged into the receptacle wasn’t fully engaged and the metal face plate came loose, it would rest on the ground prong of the cord end, rather than on the hot and neutral prongs of the cord end and trip the breaker, on a piece of life support equipment. More importantly, Jesus was born of a virgin, lived a sinless life and was crucified for our sins and raised by the Father on the third day as it is written in the scriptures. He was seen by over 500 people after being raised from the dead. He is the only way to the Father.
Thanks! Always wondered that about hospital receptacles.
i've never seen anyone do that with the receptacle either. it's honestly something that's there but nobody ever notices 😂. but i feel like it sticks out too far for my liking
I could really use your expertise. Just bought a house and was using a carpet washer while my son was vacuuming in the adjacent room, both outlets were running on the same circuit and overloaded the circuit. Went to the breaker to see it didn't trip. Have pulled out all the outlets and switches in the circuit to see if any had burned up in the daisy chain. Found the last outlet in the chain but couldn't narrow down the first outlet in the chain to see where I have lost power. Either way none of the leading wires to the couple outlets I have narrowed down to being the first outlet in the chain for this circuit. No gfis nor junction boxes I could find anywhere in the house even in bathrooms. House was built in 71'. I tested all the single breakers in the box with a meter and all showing 124 volts so looks like the breakers are good. Since the wire out the breaker is showing 124 volts but none of the outlets on that circuit are showing any power coming into the outlet, I can only assume the wire has burned up somewhere in between the breaker and the first outlet in the chain. What do you think and what direction would you go from there?
I have often wondered why outlets are installed ground prong down. It makes more sense to me to install ground prong up - for the reason you mentioned. Thanks
I've very much appreciated every outlet in the last many years says on the back "white/neutral" and "black/hot" next to the screws, and GFCIs also stamp which is the "line/supply" and "load".
I’m a 74 year old woman who is trying to learn all I can. I am so glad that you are providing this information. Thank you!
@PM MM I like this channel but I really love Leah at See Jane Drill. She is awesome and explains and demonstrates in a very easy to learn way.
I'm a DIYer. With many years in remodel and home repair, I knew all this, sort of, but it sure is good to have it explained again. Keeps my edges sharp. Thanks.
DIY 8: I have always used wire strippers when doing this kind of work, but never realized some outlets had a built in wire stripper as a last resort. Very informative video; thank you!
I never use Strippers, my wife would kill me . Lol
Speed wiring is called “back stabbing” in my neck of the woods. Many electricians (myself included) will simply not speed wire.
Hack shit the reason why we have to go back n fix shit speed wiring on a home run knocked out two whole bedrooms lights n outlets both i wrapped it around the screws problem solved
always a pain in the butt to open up a box and finding stabbing has been used. actually against code in my jurisdiction but home owners 'maintenance' do it and intermittents are a pain to chase down. Sometimes plug insertion make pops and small flashes. Scares the shit out of them. "The breaker tripped!!! The breaker tripped!!!" yes as it is supposed to do.
I always do speed wiring. It saves time and allows me to fit more work in a day.
@@DoctorSkillz It is against the code and If I were the inspector I would pull your licence and you could then go work with the plumbers and pipe shit.
I never "back stab" a receptacle. One's just asking for problems down the road. I sometimes see where someone has changed an outlet and tried to straighten the wires from the side screws and then jam them into the back of the new outlet. Just do it right.
DIY 4. BTW, I like ground up to indicated it's a switched receptacle.
Good point. I just moved into a new house and they have about 4 or 5 receptacles per room and only 1 is switched. Since I didn't see it with furniture, I had to track down each outlet that was switched lol.
Ground up isnt to indicate its a switched outlet. The the code was to ground up upnfor this assinine reason, if the plug comes loose and a metalic object like a coin or hairpin falls on the outlet,it will hit the ground, instead of across the hot and neutral there by preventing a short duhhhhh.just becuae u can install an outlet ,it dont mean u are an elcetrician
Interesting spin on the idea. 👍🏻
@@anthonygallo3576 "the code"? What code would THAT be? Also, such a silly rule would have no impact on safety of any two-prong plugs.
DIYer for about 40 years - I knew 5 and learned about the other 5 in this video. I love your videos and always learn something new. Thanks!
Former pro. Knew all of these except the Eaton stripper. I don't think those were around back when I was working though. We always stocked Leviton. I was trained that receptacles should be installed ground up so as not to expose the hot and neutral to falling objects if the cord end was loose, but we typically installed them ground down because that is how most customers preferred them. Another point is to make your hooked end so that it starts on the left and goes around clockwise so that the hook tightens as you tighten the screw. Also, for the reasons you stated, I never "back-stab" a receptacle.
So, falling objects are the reason for ground up? I never heard of this. I assumed it was because the ground prong was heavier than the other to prongs and it was a stability issue.
When I was wiring my garage, ESA made me install up quoting safety. Since we plug/unplug with thumb on top, if it touches the ground there is no problem where with ground down, you could contact the hot. I prefer ground down since I'm used to it
So very true.
DIY 2. I recently rewired my older home from two-conductor to three-conductor wiring. The metal box for the receptacle is small so rather than crowding a pair of #12 wires in daisy-chain, I added a junction box in the basement, and thus only the "pigtail" needed to be pulled into the receptacle box. The inspector had no problem with that.
DIY. 10... which is a number that really surprised me. There were a few things that I had some knowledge of, but most of these facts were completely new to me. Great information, and nice to see professionals supporting your information. Thanks to all the pros out there who take the time to comment!
DIY 3 - In my region it was common to wire receptacle ground down "unless" it was a switched outlet whereby the Electrician wired ground up for identification. I was very appreciative of this in my last home. Some people get around using the Leviton brand by calling them Decorator.
My understanding, too.
DIYer ... Something I have found interesting is that every house I have lived in in AZ every outlet was wired using speed wiring. It surprises me because of how many electricians say how its terrible yet home builders seem to love it (Must go along with quantity over quality at that point) . So whenever I replace outlets I wrap the wires around the screws. :)
The coolest part of this video is that flat/phillips hybrid screwdriver!
Absolutely!!
Ok I thought the driver looked unique
yea ... i saw that too .. i want one ... thats bad a$$
Klein tools. I bought the 13 or 15 in 1. Plus it ratchets. It comes with that bit. It's more like a square (Robertson) and flat head if you ask me.
I believe its referred to as "posidriv" but i could be wrong. Would love to have one of these in 6" long impact bit
DIY. 4. Thanks for all your great videos.
Your number 9, ground up or ground down. I’m glad you mentioned that one. I replaced a garbage disposal and the replacement I purchased was a better disposal but required me to install an electrical outlet to plug it in under my sink where the original didn’t plug into an outlet. A couple years after installing it I noticed I had installed the receptacle ground up and the builder had installed all other outlets in the house ground down. I had it on my to-do list to switch it around but it sounds like it’s not necessary if it’s not code and it’s an outlet that really isn’t seen anyway being inside a cabinet under the sink.
DIY 3 - I prefer ground down except for switched outlets then ground up to identify which one is on the switch
Ooh, good idea. I'll keep that one in mind.
Is this a new code note?
NO PEOPLE...Ground up if its a metal faceplate!!! Ground down if its not metal!!!
DIY with 25yrs construction experience here.
We do ground down, because then when adversity comes to town the ground is the last prong to be ripped from the outlet (as in, when something is dropped or stepped on so cord is forced downward until plug pulls out).
Would make sense then to use ground-up to designate switched outlets. Hadn't really thought of that before. Have just always used location as the designator, outlets that would typically be inaccessible with furniture but close to where you'd want a lamp would be switched.
Or in the case of switched outlets in the shop, they just get a different color of duplex or get marked some other way as switched. Usually "S1" then "S2" to designate each outlet to its switch. Same for tagging the wire leads, to save on trace time when the next conversion happens for the electrical supply
DIY I only new 1 thing out of 10. Very informative
Pro. I've always oriented my outlets with ground down as I'm a resi sparky. It seems to be more common in commercial to have ground up. I've heard of 2 reasons why to orient the ground up. First to identify the outlet as half hot (Switched outlet). The second would be a safety issue. If you have a piece of art on a wall and it were to fall it would strike the ground first. Ground down it could strike the hot and neutral and create a short.
Also ground up looks less like a "face " to not tempt children to poke the eyes with something
Placing ground down usually places on the
back side of the outlet the ground screw at the lowest part of the box where grounds are not likely to come down on any conductors. And second
, right angled cord ends wont have the cord ends facing awkwardly in an up and looping position, possibly causing a snag point for passer byers .A thought .
Explain half hot, like only the switched recepticls (aka half hot) with the bar broke would be ground up? That's interesting and I've never seen that done, but makes perfect sense.
Personally I think it looks wonky as Hell having them upside down and always wanted to know why commercial applications did that. Figured it was something stupid like ease of use for 3-prong plugs until reading comments here saying safety factor...still stupid as Hell IMO
DIY 1 I didn't know, built in stripper & multi-gauge at that.
Here's a fun fact; Puerto Rico doesn't use 14g wire or 15amp breakers😎
@@wowchad Yes, half the outlet is switched for table lamps. Not so common anymore. I always run 12 for my outlets and 14 for lighting. The built-in strippers are very lame and could potentially ring the wire...Check out the writing on an outlet. Is ground up really upside down? I always install ground down.
@@CaptainSardine yo i tried that as a kid LMAO
I'm a DIY - 4. I tend to work more with smart switches and outlets, which generally have the wires already attached. Not being an electrician, and less familiar with conventional electrical switches and receptacles, I'm rather cautious about determining which wires are hot, travelers, neutral and ground. BTW, I only do side-wiring on the conventional switches and receptacles and prefer push-in or lever connectors over wire nuts. Working with smart switches and outlets might make for an interesting video, since they can pose a different set of challenges.
DIY 2. Have been for 30+ years and I want to thank you for your videos. Point #3 about speed wiring the receptacles only once. I have never used that feature but it is good to know.
Ground down creates more stability, however, when useing a metal cover you should do ground up. That way if the plate becomes loose it hits the ground first.
Pro. The ground prong on a three wire plug is longer than the other two specifically for that reason
@@wab18 5 years and never seen a short from a metal plate that dropped and hit the neutral and hot? I have several times. Most of what I worked with was places that required stainless steel covers for food grade requirements. I only worked as an apprentice for 4 years. So apparently you just lucked out. But I can speak for fact it does happen.
@@jkmurphy3 for what reason? The prong is longer for keeping the plug in if that's what you're referring to.
PRO: 1. Useful tips -- very nice. 2. Stick connections or "speed wiring" (in my experience) should be banned. It is the weakest connection of all and is the cause of most modern day residential wiring & receptacle issues. Just think about the overall actual contact point to point surface area verses the other two methods. Due to internal bite tab weakening over time; and thereby resulting in loose connections that cause internal arcing, burning, internal heating, low voltage/intermittant issues, and potential fire. 3. I prefer to strip the wire and loop around the screw without cutting the wire when wiring a string of receptacles or a gang of them for a single circuit. 4. Yes -- Ground Port Down is the preferred method to match most commercially molded angled plugs; however, Ground Port UP provides the strongest plug support and longest receptacle life. UP places the fulcrum pressure or weight of the plug (w-cable) towards the back of the receptacle while securing full face to face contact between plug and receptacle. I most often find receptacles that have broken faces between Ground Port and receptacle face edge due to Ground DOWN position. Any painted, cracked, or broken receptacle, switch, etc. is always a violation of the Electrical Code and must be replaced ... it will never pass inspection. 5. Do NOT forget the latest tamper proof receptacles that are meant to try and protect children from sticking things into the receptacle ports.
I worked in electronics most of my work career and I always think of the size of the conductor in a 20 amp fuse plus a safety factor. . The push tab doesn’t meet that criteria in my thinking. I also use a square drive bit to tighten the screws. I’m a DIYer that has built 3 houses in the last 20 years. Where I live building your own home doesn’t require inspections if a bank isn’t used. I get accused of over building by my friends in the trades. Ground down.
Thats funny considering the replacement for wire nuts is a push in connector just like the speed connector. If the wire is stapled to the stud in the wall appropriately what do you think some gremlin is going to pull on the wire. Even if it did come loose its inside a J box what could possibly happen? It could short to neutral or ground and pop a breaker, lions and tigers and bears oh my!
@@GregariousAntithesis Having had to rewire two homes I've lived in, I hate stapled wíre. It's so much easier to replace wire by attaching new wire to old and then pulling it through stop blocks, studs, rafters etc, without cutting holes or removing drywall of paneling.
Stapled wire requires you to remove drywall, etc to replace it.
Arrrgh!
@@libertypastor1307 by code General Cable Support
Runs of NM cable must be supported at least every 54 inches. 1 They also must be secured within 12 inches of an electrical box that includes a cable clamp or within eight inches of a box or enclosure without a cable clamp.May 30, 2021. You should not have to be pulling new wire to begin with, what you are saying makes zero sense.
@@libertypastor1307 if you replacing wire in drywall covered walls, you fish tape new wire and abandon old, no staples involved. If you are having to rewire a whole house you should be removing the drywall and start with new everything.
Former electrician 1. Found the information helpful, useful and explained well. I wish you would have covered pig tails versus wiring in on one screw and out on the other screw for wiring multiple receptacles in a row. Many people don't realize the benefits of using pigtails instead of one screw incoming and other screw, on the same side, as outgoing to next receptacle. As obvious as it may seem, it can't be understated enough to turn all power off to the circuit in use and still checking the wires are infact not hot prior to any receptacle replacing. Also, it never hurts to mention breaker size as it relates to wire size. Finally, loose wires equal heat. And heat equals fire. Well done sir.
Almost forgot, you should also cover the significance of screw colors: brass screw hot wire(black), silver screw neutral wire(white) and green screw ground wire(bare or green). Just trying to help your viewers.
Pigtails required here in California
I live in Sacramento CA. My house was built in 1987 and every outlet was daisy chained. It took me awhile but I eventually rewired every single outlet.
Thanks for all the info. always great videos. I am DYI 3 . But i did not know anything about electricity, wires, and receptacles. I am learning every day thanks to your videos and tutorials.
DIY 9
You should mention the use of the crease on the receptacle ears. Commercial Electricians would know this.
Pro, 1.
Besides their use for (half-switched) "outlets", a common usage is on a residential kitchen receptacle that the dishwasher and garbage disposal are plugged into.
Only the hot side link is removed. A three conductor + ground "romex" cable, typically 14 gauge is used, with the neutral connected as normal at the distribution panel and each hot wire (black and red) wired to a to 2 pole circuit breaker with each pole connected to opposite sides of the 240 volt / 120 volt hot bus rails.
It would have been perplexing to me if someone isolated a duplex receptacle by breaking off the tab; would have thought it was a failure rather than intentional.
Useful to know, as it might come in handy in the future to save on installing two separate receptacles.
That would work before title 24 requiring gfci and afci protection. Waste of $90 for a 2 pole afci/gfci breaker and main panels fill quickly doing that. Just put a 2 gang box with 2 $15 plugs. We run mc flex 12-3 to metal 2 gang box. This allows for a tandem breaker saving space and 2 afci/gfci receptacles. Also saves money and title 24 compliant. We do this at dryer/washer, garb disposal/dishwasher, and the 2 counter top circuits.
DIY 2 - In utility areas (shop, garage, laundry) I prefer to install receptacles in pairs with one ground up and one down. This allows for the use of any configuration plug.
DIY-1
Calling the thing on the wall an "outlet" is proper and descriptive. In the same sense as calling the power connector on the back of your computer is an "inlet".
Love your videos.
Good to remind DIYers about the split receptacle. Once when I was a kid, I surprised my parents with upgraded Decora outlets to update the look in the kitchen. I wired the outlets exactly as it was in the older receptacles, but did not notice that several of the older receptacles had the split receptacle tabs removed. Well you can guess what happened next after I turned the circuit breakers back on: Sparks flew and the circuit breakers not only tripped but were broken after that. That's when I learned of the split receptacles. It was dangerous. Thank you for your excellent video.
You might have gotten away with it if both line sources went to the same side of the transformer leg. But it would seem that you shorted one leg to the other and slammed the 110 breakers with 240. BOOM or maybe ZAP! Sounds scary.
I went to help someone hook up a kitchen sink disposal and failed to understand that the box had 2 separate power sources going into it. I stuck my meter in there and had someone flip breakers till I lost power. Then with the greatest confidence that the box was safe, I stuck my fingers in there to start moving thing around. ZAP!! I got a surprise shock from the still live second circuit, ouch!
DIY 9 - Beginning to do more and more DIY projects. Especially scary, venturing into the electrical wiring realm. Project 1, replace all fluorescent fixtures with LED fixtures. Long overdue. Just found your channel, EHR! Watched several videos. So clear, concise, and applicable to the things I need to learn. Thank you!
Regarding #10, a receptacle is still an outlet. The distinction is that "outlet" is not a descriptive term for product advertisement purposes. An outlet is defined by the NEC as "A point on the wiring system at which current is taken to supply utilization equipment.". So it's correct to call a receptacle an outlet, but many other things are outlets such as edison screw lightbulb sockets.
Pro - 1 - but only because of previous videos!
Thanks for the clarification Paul, appreciate the help 👍
And the definition by the NFL just doesn’t stand up
DYI 3 wire stripper and nickel and dime trick. Most importaltly I learned not to reuse the fast wiring outlet. I have done that a number of times and the wire seemed snug but it could have been weakened. Gradually learned the other things over 60 years of home repairs. Great presentation
I use the Ears on the outlets for spacing, but NOT BY REMOVING THEM. I simply bend them down on the scored line as much as needed for boxes that are slightly or very recessed. They sit against the front edge of the box perfectly. Quick and easy depth adjustment. Try it! I always thought that’s what they were for. I didn’t know the wire strippers function. That’s a sweet design.
I put the ground facing up for a couple of reasons:
1. It holds the plug better; you’ll know this if you had a weak receptacle.
2. If something metal plate etc were to fall off of a nightstand and hit the plug it could lodge on the hot and neutral prong. Whereas if the ground prong is facing up it is less likely to happen. Thanks for the video, enjoyed it.
Although I've installed many outlets (receptacIes!), I knew maybe one of the facts covered in the video. I love the side-wiring method of wrapping the bare wire around the screw using the built-in hook. I've always struggled to make the J, but it looks like those days are over. I had no idea that speed-wiring was a one-time option; what a great thing to know. I've never seen the commercial receptacle that combines speed-wiring with clamping down the wire with the side-screw--that's for me from now on. And now I can explain to my wife why the beveled receptacles are superior-easier to plug into-although she will insist on the "Decora" (and I will comply). Thanks for this clear and helpful presentation.
please fella don't use the speed wire method...it's like playing Russian roulette with 5 cartridges in a 6 shot revolver! They are notorious for poor connections and melting themselves when used! The odds just are not in your favor believe me! Btw look for the hole on either side of your strippers that is a wire bending hole for making the hook and you probably have the strippers out and use them to strip the wire so bend the hook right after efficiency at its finest.
Diy and just replaced all 82 switches and receptacles with the Decora and every room has at least 1 USB lighted receptacle and even though it was expensive it's great to have a lighted, USB in every room and including the 3 bathrooms with also a lighted GFI. I would like to see more of what's available including smart receptacles and switches today. It has really improved the look over the old Ivory toggle style switches that was built in 1995. Great job on your videos
DYI - 2 - since I did my first install I was taught to use the "J" method therefore I never had any attraction to do the straight connection - did not have the confidence that would hold the wire (that is me only). Thanks for your time demonstrating this features.
STRAIGHT IN.... THAT'S FOR LAZY FOLK.
DIY 1 - I didn't know there was a catch to help form the sheppard's 'hook' loop. Very handy :) I'm pleased to say I knew all the other tips though. I typically position the receptacle ground-down, which is pretty common in Canada. I know in the UK it's typical to install ground-up. One other tip about receptacles is the colour of the screws. Brass for the black (hot) wire and aluminum for the white (neutral) wire.
Same here, DIY-1
DIY 3 Regarding whether the ground should be up or down, whenever I’ve seen a right angle plug, it’s designed for the ground down position. Another item to consider is whether the ground should be to the left or the right when receptacles are installed laterally.
DIY, 1 - I didn’t know that speed wiring was a one-and-done feature. Your showing the inner workings and explaining why was very helpful and will make it stick!!!
I am a professional DIYer. Ok so not a professional however my dad was a general contractor and not only taught me but often had me assist his electricians. That being said I knew about back wiring and not much else. I have always used the hole in the wire stripper to form my loop on the wire and then fight to get it around the screw. I can't wait to try what I saw. On your previous video ground up or down, I don't know if anyone gave you reasons but my dad always taught me ground down because when you plug in a transformer style plug, he called them wall warts, if the ground is up the bulk of the plug is up and it wants to pull out of the socket. I had a commercial contractor tell me that ground up is correct for safety. He said basically if a thin metal object where to fall parallel to the wall and actually get between the receptacle and the plug if the ground is down it would rest on the hot and neutral prongs of the plug. To me this seems like such an unlikely scenario I am more concerned with the transforming plugs hanging correctly but maybe there is a situation out there where people are loosely hanging sheet metal on the wall above electrical outlets. You got me on that one.
My comment on ground up/down is similar -- but you have a second reason for "down". :)
Note that sometimes there's a hole in the ground lug that can be used to make your loop.
NEC leaves it up to personal preference (of the installer or end user/property owner). However, Underwriters Laboratory (UL) only tests receptacles in the ground up position, so they are technically only UL Listed for use in that orientation. Does that matter? 🤷♂️
I install them so they match the ones visible around them or to meet the personal preference of whomever I’m installing them for. (I used to be dogmatic about the ground up, but found that to be of no real value.)
I have found that most people prefer the ground down orientation. It just feels better/more comfortable to them usually without any other explanation. I agree. They look nicer that way, but it still bothers me because of the consensus of other reasons to put the ground up.
In short, 🤷♂️. They work fine both ways (except for when the plug dictates ground down such as transformers, fridges, etc.)
(Electrical contractor and professional homeowner)
I have seen a coin fall off of a dresser and land precisely in the prongs of a ground-down outlet behind the dresser. If it's going to be behind something like that, I install ground-up. If it's just in a random hallway or something, ground down.
@Penny Popper I agree, I prefer Ground Down because of the wall wart issue, they typically have a Ground Down orientation. Although, I usually use a short extension cord with multiple receptacles so that the bulk of the transformer is supported on the floor.
Hi, I am a DIY and i did not know any of this and i learned everything you had on this clip, you are great thank you
Happy to help!
The reason for the outlet being upside down was in hospitals emergency rooms/in Porten rooms where any tools cannot fall and hit both of the top neutral and ground at the same time
I always prefer and recommend ground up. I was measuring in a bathroom once, and my tape measure fell over a long distance, and came into contact with a plug that wasn't plugged in all the way. Tripped the breaker and put two burn marks and semi holes in my tape measure (still usable, but now very fragile).
@@codyabernethy4086 I always put ground up. The ground pin is longer and holds the pos and neg in place. The outlets in the receptical loosen over time faster when installed ground down.
if you install ground up you're going to end up with p.o.'ed customers because their power bricks, nightlights, air fresheners, smart plugs and anything made since the turn of the century are designed for ground down.
@@plebiansociety I know what you meant.
In theory, a tool could still fall & hit the hot & ground terminals at the same time creating a short.
home DIYer. knew 3 of these. I've tried to stay away from electrical because it's clear that I don't know a lot. Every video I watch on it, I learn something new that I never would have realized was important.