So what do you think? Does it make the most sense for a homeowner or DIYer to get one of these clamp meters? Or does it still make a lot of sense to have the other tools or at least some of them?
I have all 3 already. So not much impetus to buy a new device. But I do like the clamp on feature for checking amps. And my very old Radio Shack multimeter has probes that are breaking down inside (the plastic inner sheathing is getting brittle). I have been thinking of getting one of these, but just have not convinced myself I'd use it enough.
the PROBLEM with almost all NON Fluke clamp ons is the screen and dial arrangement are UPSIDE DOWN. while holding in left hand, the dial should be ON THE BOTTOM, as the screen is above and NOT covered by the hand as is the reverse. with the dial on top you cover the screen with your hand, ergonomics are not to be compromised
Great video! As an electrician myself I use a fluke but the problem with them is they are really expensive. These are perfect for the homeowner and DIYer. Not too expensive and work really well! Really thinking about making a video on my channel as well on the topic of multimeters. Thanks for taking the time to share! You’re bringing value to many!
As an electrician in a very large plant we could get almost any test equipment furnished by the company. My favorite tester was the Fluke t5-1000. Almost impossible to damage or destroy electrically. AT least to the 480 volt 3 phase circuits I have tried it on. It does miss the capacitor tester but seldom is there a need for it.
@landerselectric really glad to hear you liked it. Yeah Fluke makes great products! You should do it! Some good videos on multimeters are always needed. I really appreciate you taking the time to leave this feedback!
I just learned this now. The 10x on the splitter is designed that way to allow for better resolution for low current readings. The hot wire is wraped 10 times on that side.
Great video! I still have a handy device I made over 20 years ago to make it easy to use my clamp-on ammeter on any appliance or equipment that plugged in to a standard outlet. I took a short grounded heavy duty extension cable and with my box cutter I carefully separated the three wires inside the cable for a distance of about 8 inches. Then I just used the modified extension cable to plug in the appliance, and I clamped the ammeter around either individual hot or neutral wire to measure the current draw. I can't count the number of times I've used it over the years.
Sometimes though when measuring a motor's current draw, it's nigh on impossible to get their cables separated enough at the terminal block, for inserting the leg of a clipon, especially where armourced conduit is used. But it has to be done. Sometimes it's better to grab the outgoing neutral (or another phase wire) and recalculate anything that may detract from a correct reading. Another way of getting such readings, especially for motor circuits, where the cable into the otor terminal block is too tight) - is to measure the current loading on that cable, as it leaves the switchboard, where most often there is plenty of cable to allow a clip-on to get around a wire. However stray circuits OUTSIDE the clip-on's legs can alter readings, so if needs must - trip all other circuits nearby to only get the one wire's current reading.
I've used Fluke the majority of my 28 years in the commercial/industrial career, but I found myself helping a friend one day and he didn't have a meter. I ended up buying the Klein CL800 and fell in love with it. At work I carry the Fluke 376FC, but for my home tools I use the Klein CL700 now after leaving my CL800 on the bumper and driving off (talking about being pissed). It's more than the average home owner will ever need, but they make less expensive models that works just fine. I do keep my "Idiot stick" AKA non-contact voltage sensor in my pocket nearly 100% of the time for those tight spots. Also, I wouldn't recommend an inexperienced person to even own a non-contact voltage sensor. They CAN be unreliable or even outright fail if they're damaged or the battery is weak and that can get you hurt!!!
Very helpful for us rookies interested in learning and assessing tool options. Would definitely like to see more real world situational examples and demos on how these work. Thank you.
@14:08 quick note for folks shopping around: Not all splitters multiply by 10. The purpose of that feature is to get more accuracy on low current loads. Some splitters will just be 1x with no math needed, and I've also seen them were one side of the splitter was 10x and the other side was 1x so you could do either. You can also DIY your own splitter by taking a generic extension cord that has the two wires visible with the groove down between them and carefully cut between them with a knife (while it's not powered) and make an opening large enough to get your clamp on either wire. If you make it large, you can coil one side so it passes through the clamp multiple times and then you'll get a reading that is times the number of turns.
I have so many Klein testing tools including everything in the video except the clamp meter. More even, I've worked professionally with DC current, I don't mess around with electricity. I will own the clamp meter, it's a little pricey so I spread out when I buy stuff. There's another Klein meter that traces the wires to the panel, that's fairly inexpensive. Everybody should get one, it's awesome.
The amount of information spoke on this video is insane and I’m extremely grateful to you for sharing. Glad I stuck around for the whole 16 mins of the video. I immediately subscribed. Really good content…
My tone generator really is so valuable, I use it often at work. Low voltage guy, fire alarms and supression systems. It saves me so much time in trying to troubleshoot and find wiring or device issues.
The condition I have at home is for me to do a project, I get to buy the best tool(s) to do it with. (friends can't wait for the estate sale) However I only learned to do what I needed to with the tools. This video is awesome. I had no idea what a clamp meter could do, obviously ignoring all the obvious on the face of it. Thanks. Love the channel. None better. PS...I have always fumbled with the multimeter, and never knew to snap the red lead to the meter.....duh. That is a gold nugget.
wanted to thank you for all the help on explaining my electrical issues and slowly buildin up my equipment! my house is really REALLY old! i'm in the process of replacing all the 2 prong, 2 outlet and even a few 3 outlet receptacles! 😲 ..yes, THAT OLD! i've bought all Leviton receptacles and green grounding wires, i'm assuming i will need one for each! i was wondering if you could explain to me why while using my circuit breaker finder is showing the same two or three breakers box beeps for all my outlets..?? electrical is one of my least fav types of DIY, but i'm trying to learn! ..so any additional help will be very appreciated! 👍
As someone whose done residential electrical work, but when I am thinking with my home owner hat on, I would probably start with an outlet tester/circuit breaker finder, because I feel like that covers a lot of early projects, then I would go with a contactless probe for generally finding hot wires and then I would go with the clamp to cover the functionality of a multimeter. But that’s just me
Great video Adam.. I have that same clamp meter. Before I retired I had a Fluke-87 and it had an amp clamp that plugged right into the multimeter. It was a nice meter but the cost of a fluke is pretty steep.
Thanks John! Fluke makes great products! But you’re right, they come at a really steep price. I can see getting one if it’s what you do day in and day out. As always, appreciate the input!
I was going to mention the fluke 87v coupled with a Amp loop but then I looked up the current price and then that unit you had makes a lot more sense or rather cost a lot less cents lol. So probably a far more practical purchase...
I just use a meter with a no-contact voltage detection function - and it's half the price (Extech 330 vs Klein Tools CL440). However, the point of an outlet tester is to be fast and convenient, rather than having to carry around and fuss with a multimeter. If you are a home inspector or similar, you aren't responsible for fixing issues, or diagnosing beyond a very basic level of "good" vs "bad" - you even talked about this some in your video, how it's a dedicated tool for a dedicated task. Its inclusion in being "replaced" thus seems frivolous, and it really seems more like "let's replace one multimeter with a different multimeter" rather than "replace all your tools with one".
Thank you for this video - I always see the HVAC guys using the clamp tool and I have always been skeptical. Did not know about all the other things you can also do with them.
I just keep all four on hand. 😉 And call me overly observant, but didn't notice a probe holder on one jaw of the clamp meter. 🤔 Really handy to have, unless you have 3 hands. LoL. Enjoy your videos. Keep up the good content!!
I don't agree. the clamp meter is bulky. I'm working around pipes and rafters etc. But good information on how to use the clamp meter. Good luck on your channel.
Definitely found value in this video. Subscription earned! Also, can you please do one of these videos covering the best meter to use to trace an AC outlet to its panel breaker?
If you are thinking about a generator or a back up supply the watt meter can help you figure out what size you need to run what you want. Add them all up and that will put you where you need to be, but of course I would go over you don't want to max out your generator or back up supply
The"clamp" meter is a multi meter. With a couple of extra features. Depends on the brand/ model. I use an SC680 from Fieldpiece. But, it is not the end all tool.
I have a bunch of meters including the SC680. It's my goto. Great meter. The voltage detect beeping is a little annoying though. Wish there was a way to toggle that off.
As usual, you supplied some really good, useful information here. 👍👍👍 Some years ago I tried to find a meter that would do it all. I couldn't find anything that did everything that I wanted it do beyond household power applications. I wanted something for electronics and automotive work too. I went with the ES 597IR with 20 A fuse protection. It's made to endure rough handling and tests everything I want it to test, except for clamp style current measurements. It comes with an IR thermometer to measure surface temperature up to around 1000 deg F and is CAT III to 1000 V safety rated too. So the only thing left is the clamp meter function for current tests. I have an old Amprobe Clamp Meter with an analogue readout, so a digital improvement would be great. The Klein CL-900 is pretty nice; maybe that one is on my wish list or a less expensive clamp on if I just want the clamp on test measurement more than anything else.
The plugin socket tester can't tell if the neutral and earth (ground) are transposed however so be careful on that front. The ONLY way to test if everything is the connected the right way is by using an independent earth test
I found two things these clamp meters can't do. 1) NCV testing below ~50v. Many of these have a sensitivity of 50 volts and up. In order to check sources of voltage in consumer or car electronics, I use my Southwire NCV tester which has a 12v button which alters the sensitivity to detect low voltage sources. 2) DC current draw with the probes. This may vary per unit, but the inclusion of the clamp can dictate that the design intends you to use the clamp exclusively for DC current. That's a problem because small currents are swamped by noise from magnetic fields. An example is finding a parasitic draw from a car battery. I resorted to an inexpensive Innova 3320 and connected it in series with the negative terminal to measure current draw.
For small voltages/currents, use the probes that come with it and plug in to the bottom of the device. I assume that’s why this device will read micro amps based on the dial. Considering your examples the clamp would be a 95% answer while being more convenient… right?
When using a non-contact voltage detector, always check it against a known energized source to verify that the detector is working. I was taught to do that with any source from 48 volts and higher. Even with sources up to 100,000 volts with the proper equipment.
It just shows you how people will use a $10.00 tool and actually trust that tool so as not to hurt you or someone else or burn someone else's house down. Rather then buy a real tool and to it right. You see you have real electricians and you have helpers that really think they are electricians.
Yes, a Live-Dead-Live test. After you check on a known live source. Check that your target circuit is dead. And then check again on a known live source. A requirement at my power plant.
I don’t believe this bs. UA-cam removes the need for those types of “tools” (electricians) they can be really expensive and they aren’t making them in North America at the same rate that they are being retired. It takes years to make a basic one and how do you know if it’s a good one? So no, just watch UA-cam. Same thing with “doctors” Jk of course
I have the clamp version that does DC and AC amperage. The one thing that drives me nuts is the Auto off shuts the meter down within 1 to 2 minutes. You can defeat the auto shutoff by holding mode down while turning the meter on. It still beeps at you like it is about to turn off but doesn’t turn off.
Yeah the clamp meter I showed in the video won’t read dc amperage, the mm700 that I compared it to will up to 10 amps. I rarely need DC but can definitely see how you would. Thanks for the input!
I've been able to get the amperage by clamping just the very ends of it part way over the cable. Easier to do when the cable insulation shows a clear definition between the two wires. Harbor freight sells a plug in splitter by Ames, but it's huge compared to that one. It has 2 windows to clamp around, one for 1X, & one for 10X. I don't know the point in having both. It also has voltage check test points for multimeter probes, marked N, E, & L. I used a multimeter and read continuity to learn that N is neutral (as I expected), but found that E is actually for ground (Earth ground) and not for EMF like I had thought, & L is for Line (hot), which I couldn't figure out earlier since I thought the E was going to be hot as in EMF. I just figured that maybe it was one of those cheapo companies that does stuff weird and brushed it off. Personally I would've gone with H, N, G or at least put the earth ground symbol, and maybe color coded each letter black, white, & green. The test points only read to the prong (male) side of the device.
Nice video and presentation. The one multimeter I longed for is one I can see the display without my hand holding it. It either suspended at my chest, magnet hang on sheet metal or both. I also want to rid of the probes that tide up both of my hands when I need to climb a short ladder. The conventional wisdom must be changed to more practical one.
Really like Fieldpiece HS33 Expandable Manual Ranging Stick Multimeter for HVAC/R. It is specifically made for hvac it is a base for clamp, mano meter, flow meter, temp clamp, etc and it will do everything except DC amps the only disappointment. Nothing replaces a outlet tester.
@Bassmaster1256 yeah I really like their tools obviously. I am not sponsored by them or been sent anything for free. But if they wanted to do a sponsorship I would be open to it 😂. I just buy their electrical tools as most your pros are using them, they are good quality, and yet affordable. I have that same tool. It’s awesome. Have yet to make a video on it though 🤔
Thanks for saying Klein does not sponsor you. Your shoutout to them is great; however, based on the number of accusatory comments, your credibility might take a hit. Is there an inexpensive meter I can buy just to test my A/C (your A/C videos are amazing but the testers are beyond my budget)? Thanks!
There are just some things in life we cannot control. People’s opinions of us are one of those things. I give as good and honest information as I can. What everyone does with it is on them. Everyone wants to know what tools and materials I use, so I take the time to supply it. As long as I know I’m doing that, I sleep great at night. It depends on what you are wanting to test on the ac. Some of the things that I show in my AC videos require multimeters that have capabilities that standard multimeters don’t have. Unfortunately that usually means they cost more. But again, it just depends on what you’re wanting to test.
@@CajunCoding Thanks very much. It's $56.99 on Amazon Canada. I would still prefer a tester that is less expensive. Do I need to measure soft start (not sure I watched a video on that)? I added a new comment that includes a link to photos of my unit. If you have a chance to look at it, I would really appreciate it!
@@chick-flick-cherry you aren't measuring the "soft start", you are measuring the "inrush current" of a device that has an inductive load (e.g. compressor, motor, etc.). That is one of the main features that bumps the pricing up is the ability to measure in-rush current. You don't necessarily need it, but it's an indispensable feature when you do. I had 3 different multi-meters before I realized I should have just gotten a better one -- buy-once-cry-once. Some examples of why you'd want inrush is if you had a solar generator (e.g. those new LifePo batter power banks by anker, ecoflow, bluetti, etc.) and wanted to know if it could run your Refridgerator or Freezer... well those have compressors so you'd have to measure the Inrush to know if the battery can support the max current needed. Same for a Window A/C unit you might want to run when power is out from a Hurricane (very common here in Louisiana), you'd have to be able to reliably measure the inrush of the Window A/C. So anything with a compressor, or motor has an Inrush spike that you'd need to know.
The only thing I seen different is on Klein meter the extra toner. I knew everything else. What are the main things I look on a clamp meter can I get those batteries in AA or AAA since the most common one you'll find immediately is 9 volt which means you need to buy a battery some of the time when you need it on the job site. That's why I I spent extra time making sure I had a different battery size in my clap meter. I also like it the show positive and negative on voltage just in case if my electrical outlet tester is missing or broken. The next thing I liked on mine is temperature probe and 1000v rated I got mine on Amazon though not fluke brand since that would be way too out of budget to buy fluke. I've also made a cord for using with the clamp meter before though I do have a line splitter too. The only fluke tool which was all right on price was toner kit.
@@TurdFerguson149 they work by detecting a changing magnet field they don’t detect DC, and they don’t detect a capacitive charge... The tester WILL NOT detect voltage if: • The wire is shielded. • The operator is not grounded or is otherwise isolated from an effective earth ground. • The voltage is DC. The tester MAY NOT detect voltage if: • The user is not holding the tester. • The user is insulated from the tester with a glove or other materials. • The wire is partially buried or in a grounded metal conduit. • The tester is at a distance from the voltage source. • The field created by the voltage source is being blocked, dampened, or otherwise interfered with. • Operation may be affected by differences in socket design and insulation thickness and type. • The frequency of the voltage is not a perfect sine wave between 50 and 500Hz. The tester may detect at a different threshold at different conditions, or may not detect at all unless: • The tip of the tester is within ¼" (6 mm) of an AC voltage source radiating unimpeded. • The user is holding the body of the tester with their bare hand. • The user is standing on or connected to earth ground. • The air humidtty is nominal (50% relative humidity - non-condensing). • The tester is held still. Etc... do some research
I think the non-contact voltage tester is good for a double-check or second opinion. I have often made measurements where the voltmeter isn't reading because of oxidation or an intermittent connection. Whenever making any electrical measurement, I have made it a habit to always do a double-check, even when safety isn't an issue. For example, when measuring resistance, I always reverse the leads and measure again. When measuring a DC voltage, I always flip the multimeter into AC mode and measure again, then back to DC mode and re-measure. Surprises are common when you do this, which tells me it's worth doing; the better you understand the circuit and your measurement assumptions, the better off you are. I think it actually save time in the long run, less tail-chasing.
I don't believe you talked about the "LoZ" function some multimeters have, which is useful for killing "ghost voltage" issues. (Have you explained ghost voltages in a previous video? If not, I think that would be an excellent topic to cover, with live examples.) Personally, I wouldn't want to rely on a multimeter without it. It looks like the Klein CL700 thru CL900 have the LoZ mode; the CL800 also has DC current measurement, another absolute must for me these days, since I sometimes work on stuff with lead-acid or lithium battery packs. Most of my clamp meter experience has been with Fluke clamp meters. With the Fluke clamp meters, you ALWAYS have to carry around at least an additional multimeter, since they lack needed features. For example, none of the clamp meters measure above a few thousand ohms. What's with that??? That missing feature (megohms measurement) has caused me some misdiagnosis grief, and that's the kind of stuff that sticks in your mind when shopping for a new measurement tool. Anyway, your video has sold me on upgrading to the Klein CL800. It's missing inrush current, which I use on occasion, so I guess at least one of the Fluke clamp meters would still have a purpose. (Yes, I see that the CL900 has inrush current, but it lacks the 60A current range with 10mA resolution, and it's physically larger.)
i will stick with my fieldpiece stick meter. it does all of that and has heads to do my HVAC work. i still have all the other tools. they can be faster to set up and find a problem and time is money.
Probably depends on whether it's running the fan only or both fan & compressor when he took each of the readings. Also, it could be the difference between low fan & high fan.
Great video. I am curious about the amperage readings you got. When you clamped around the wire to the outlet, it showed 3.3 amps. When you used the splittir, it showed 66.4, devided by 10 equals 6.6 amps, which is twice the first reading. Any clue why?
They are different AC units. From what I see in the video… The 3.3 amp version has a door within a few inches of the receptacle while the unit reading 6.6 amp does not.
Thank you for your videos. I do have an unusual question that I might have previously asked but did not receive an answer. I have what I think is an unusual problem. I have this full size freezer in the garbage which I know from the manual requires a 15 amp circuit breaker fuse. The lowest amp fuses in my fuse box are all 15 amp. The following morning after the freezer was plugged in and working fine, I thought that there would not be any complications; however a week later and the freezer is off with the outlet not with any power. Problem is that none of the circuit breakers are tripped. I checked all GFCI outlets in the entire house and all have power, so to me that is not the problem. So now with the outlet and entire circuit that the freezer was plugged into no longer has any power. Why is it that the circuit breaker did not trip? Very frustrating on what I am supposed to do to solve this? Any ideas?
The clamp meter should have been designed such that the clamping accessory attaches to the main unit via a sturdy 3 prong receptacle plug .The female end of which would be part of the clamping accesory while the exposed male plug would protrude from the main unit (at the connedction point). This would allow the main unit (minus the clamp) to plug into the receptical. How does this not make total sense?
Just saying that checking for ground is just as simple as testing for voltage. Everyone knows the round hole is ground. For correct polarity, yes they would need to know which side was hot vs neutral.
Your video content is always informative and interestingly presented. However, if you're open to constructive criticism, a tool or product you're discussing does not need to be shaken or moved about to emphasize your oral presentation; it just makes it more difficult to see. Please keep them coming, as I learn from each of your posts.
Electrician question: I have under the cabinet halogen lights in the kitchen. I have two strings both separate power switch. When I turn one string on the lights are normal bright. After a 15-30 second time frame the lights go dim and stay dim. Why? When I turn on kitchen lights and turn on same under cabinet switch, kitchen led lights fade and go bright quickly. Why? With all lights mentioned above are off the other string of under cabinet lights are switched on the lights sometimes come on or are super dim. Same circuit breaker. As other string. Separate issue. I have a light switch that is in a group of 3 other switches. It has 113v on it. The rest in the group are 120. Why? Additionally I can’t figure out what it goes to. Do you have a recommendation for a “ringer tool” to help search where the wires terminate at? Thank you in advance
electrician here......i keep an old school solenoid tester, hi zoot digital hvac tech style. a widowmaker (non conact) and a cheapo continuity tester (easier to see).....sorry you cannot do it all effectively with one tool there are too many things to check for.....i also use a tone generator to find nodes on dead circuits......
Do tools such as these have versions for working with 240v circuits. I've run a 240v line to my garage from the box and would like an outlet tester to double-check. I believe I used a 30 volt plug. Thanks!
When I started we used a pig tail and a 220 volt light bulb. Had plenty of amp probes, now I have 2 flukes and an old recording amp probe. The old school amp probes we never used the leads, cuse the fuse wouldn’t blow fast enough.
So what do you think? Does it make the most sense for a homeowner or DIYer to get one of these clamp meters? Or does it still make a lot of sense to have the other tools or at least some of them?
I have all 3 already. So not much impetus to buy a new device. But I do like the clamp on feature for checking amps. And my very old Radio Shack multimeter has probes that are breaking down inside (the plastic inner sheathing is getting brittle). I have been thinking of getting one of these, but just have not convinced myself I'd use it enough.
I have all of those plus a ground meter as well.. lol..
yes. get one of these clamp meters
@@maple856 I've had one for a few years, honestly don't use it much but the couple of times that I needed it, it was worth it. 👍🏽
the PROBLEM with almost all NON Fluke clamp ons is the screen and dial arrangement are UPSIDE DOWN. while holding in left hand, the dial should be ON THE BOTTOM, as the screen is above and NOT covered by the hand as is the reverse. with the dial on top you cover the screen with your hand, ergonomics are not to be compromised
Great video! As an electrician myself I use a fluke but the problem with them is they are really expensive. These are perfect for the homeowner and DIYer. Not too expensive and work really well! Really thinking about making a video on my channel as well on the topic of multimeters. Thanks for taking the time to share! You’re bringing value to many!
As an electrician in a very large plant we could get almost any test equipment furnished by the company. My favorite tester was the Fluke t5-1000. Almost impossible to damage or destroy electrically. AT least to the 480 volt 3 phase circuits I have tried it on. It does miss the capacitor tester but seldom is there a need for it.
On sale at HD right now !
Fluke is premium.
@@Tsitris46 I agree!
@landerselectric really glad to hear you liked it. Yeah Fluke makes great products! You should do it! Some good videos on multimeters are always needed. I really appreciate you taking the time to leave this feedback!
I just learned this now. The 10x on the splitter is designed that way to allow for better resolution for low current readings. The hot wire is wraped 10 times on that side.
Great video! I still have a handy device I made over 20 years ago to make it easy to use my clamp-on ammeter on any appliance or equipment that plugged in to a standard outlet. I took a short grounded heavy duty extension cable and with my box cutter I carefully separated the three wires inside the cable for a distance of about 8 inches. Then I just used the modified extension cable to plug in the appliance, and I clamped the ammeter around either individual hot or neutral wire to measure the current draw. I can't count the number of times I've used it over the years.
I did the same thing and I get the direct reading and not have to do math (x 10 is ridiculous) LOL
Sometimes though when measuring a motor's current draw, it's nigh on impossible to get their cables separated enough at the terminal block, for inserting the leg of a clipon, especially where armourced conduit is used.
But it has to be done.
Sometimes it's better to grab the outgoing neutral (or another phase wire) and recalculate anything that may detract from a correct reading.
Another way of getting such readings, especially for motor circuits, where the cable into the otor terminal block is too tight) - is to measure the current loading on that cable, as it leaves the switchboard, where most often there is plenty of cable to allow a clip-on to get around a wire.
However stray circuits OUTSIDE the clip-on's legs can alter readings, so if needs must - trip all other circuits nearby to only get the one wire's current reading.
I've used Fluke the majority of my 28 years in the commercial/industrial career, but I found myself helping a friend one day and he didn't have a meter. I ended up buying the Klein CL800 and fell in love with it. At work I carry the Fluke 376FC, but for my home tools I use the Klein CL700 now after leaving my CL800 on the bumper and driving off (talking about being pissed). It's more than the average home owner will ever need, but they make less expensive models that works just fine. I do keep my "Idiot stick" AKA non-contact voltage sensor in my pocket nearly 100% of the time for those tight spots. Also, I wouldn't recommend an inexperienced person to even own a non-contact voltage sensor. They CAN be unreliable or even outright fail if they're damaged or the battery is weak and that can get you hurt!!!
Very helpful for us rookies interested in learning and assessing tool options. Would definitely like to see more real world situational examples and demos on how these work. Thank you.
@14:08 quick note for folks shopping around: Not all splitters multiply by 10. The purpose of that feature is to get more accuracy on low current loads. Some splitters will just be 1x with no math needed, and I've also seen them were one side of the splitter was 10x and the other side was 1x so you could do either.
You can also DIY your own splitter by taking a generic extension cord that has the two wires visible with the groove down between them and carefully cut between them with a knife (while it's not powered) and make an opening large enough to get your clamp on either wire. If you make it large, you can coil one side so it passes through the clamp multiple times and then you'll get a reading that is times the number of turns.
I have so many Klein testing tools including everything in the video except the clamp meter. More even, I've worked professionally with DC current, I don't mess around with electricity. I will own the clamp meter, it's a little pricey so I spread out when I buy stuff.
There's another Klein meter that traces the wires to the panel, that's fairly inexpensive. Everybody should get one, it's awesome.
That tracing tool has been on my shopping list for a while (I spread out purchases as well).
Harbor Freight has the original Circuit Detective by Hi Tech for 24.99, very useful item
13:35 I have one of those splitters that's also an outlet tester. So kind of a perfect compliment for the clamp meter.
The amount of information spoke on this video is insane and I’m extremely grateful to you for sharing. Glad I stuck around for the whole 16 mins of the video. I immediately subscribed. Really good content…
A signal generator to trace wiring is also an invaluable tool to own!
I really like my Ideal circuit breaker finder (61-534). The price has DOUBLED from $75 to about $145 over the past 5 years.
Tone generator and tone wand. Amazon it.
Absolutely agree
My tone generator really is so valuable, I use it often at work. Low voltage guy, fire alarms and supression systems. It saves me so much time in trying to troubleshoot and find wiring or device issues.
Agree, there could a whole other episode on low voltage wiring and testing
Love your videos. The way you jump right in without intros. Right to the point. Thanks 👍
The condition I have at home is for me to do a project, I get to buy the best tool(s) to do it with. (friends can't wait for the estate sale) However I only learned to do what I needed to with the tools. This video is awesome. I had no idea what a clamp meter could do, obviously ignoring all the obvious on the face of it. Thanks. Love the channel. None better. PS...I have always fumbled with the multimeter, and never knew to snap the red lead to the meter.....duh. That is a gold nugget.
wanted to thank you for all the help on explaining my electrical issues and slowly buildin up my equipment!
my house is really REALLY old! i'm in the process of replacing all the 2 prong, 2 outlet and even a few 3 outlet receptacles! 😲 ..yes, THAT OLD! i've bought all Leviton receptacles and green grounding wires, i'm assuming i will need one for each!
i was wondering if you could explain to me why while using my circuit breaker finder is showing the same two or three breakers box beeps for all my outlets..??
electrical is one of my least fav types of DIY, but i'm trying to learn! ..so any additional help will be very appreciated!
👍
As someone whose done residential electrical work, but when I am thinking with my home owner hat on, I would probably start with an outlet tester/circuit breaker finder, because I feel like that covers a lot of early projects, then I would go with a contactless probe for generally finding hot wires and then I would go with the clamp to cover the functionality of a multimeter. But that’s just me
Great video Adam.. I have that same clamp meter. Before I retired I had a Fluke-87 and it had an amp clamp that plugged right into the multimeter. It was a nice meter but the cost of a fluke is pretty steep.
Thanks John! Fluke makes great products! But you’re right, they come at a really steep price. I can see getting one if it’s what you do day in and day out. As always, appreciate the input!
I was going to mention the fluke 87v coupled with a Amp loop but then I looked up the current price and then that unit you had makes a lot more sense or rather cost a lot less cents lol. So probably a far more practical purchase...
I just use a meter with a no-contact voltage detection function - and it's half the price (Extech 330 vs Klein Tools CL440).
However, the point of an outlet tester is to be fast and convenient, rather than having to carry around and fuss with a multimeter. If you are a home inspector or similar, you aren't responsible for fixing issues, or diagnosing beyond a very basic level of "good" vs "bad" - you even talked about this some in your video, how it's a dedicated tool for a dedicated task. Its inclusion in being "replaced" thus seems frivolous, and it really seems more like "let's replace one multimeter with a different multimeter" rather than "replace all your tools with one".
Thank you for this video - I always see the HVAC guys using the clamp tool and I have always been skeptical. Did not know about all the other things you can also do with them.
I just keep all four on hand. 😉 And call me overly observant, but didn't notice a probe holder on one jaw of the clamp meter. 🤔 Really handy to have, unless you have 3 hands. LoL. Enjoy your videos. Keep up the good content!!
clamp the meter onto something handy, and hold the probes in your hands.
I don't agree. the clamp meter is bulky. I'm working around pipes and rafters etc. But good information on how to use the clamp meter. Good luck on your channel.
Definitely found value in this video. Subscription earned! Also, can you please do one of these videos covering the best meter to use to trace an AC outlet to its panel breaker?
It is easier just to make a short cord with a plug on one end and an outlet on the other. Then just have the three wires separate. Very easy.
Brilliant!
I’m not an electrician but I have been around it a lot and a multimeter is all you need.
I also have a seperate amp clamp probe for my Fluke multimeter. It doesn't have to be a whole new device.
If you are thinking about a generator or a back up supply the watt meter can help you figure out what size you need to run what you want. Add them all up and that will put you where you need to be, but of course I would go over you don't want to max out your generator or back up supply
I have that Klein Amp clap multi meter and didn't know all the features it has. Thanks for the info
Great meter! You’re very welcome. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
The"clamp" meter is a multi meter. With a couple of extra features. Depends on the brand/ model. I use an SC680 from Fieldpiece. But, it is not the end all tool.
I have a bunch of meters including the SC680. It's my goto. Great meter. The voltage detect beeping is a little annoying though. Wish there was a way to toggle that off.
As usual, you supplied some really good, useful information here. 👍👍👍 Some years ago I tried to find a meter that would do it all. I couldn't find anything that did everything that I wanted it do beyond household power applications. I wanted something for electronics and automotive work too. I went with the ES 597IR with 20 A fuse protection. It's made to endure rough handling and tests everything I want it to test, except for clamp style current measurements. It comes with an IR thermometer to measure surface temperature up to around 1000 deg F and is CAT III to 1000 V safety rated too. So the only thing left is the clamp meter function for current tests. I have an old Amprobe Clamp Meter with an analogue readout, so a digital improvement would be great. The Klein CL-900 is pretty nice; maybe that one is on my wish list or a less expensive clamp on if I just want the clamp on test measurement more than anything else.
The plugin socket tester can't tell if the neutral and earth (ground) are transposed however so be careful on that front. The ONLY way to test if everything is the connected the right way is by using an independent earth test
I found two things these clamp meters can't do. 1) NCV testing below ~50v. Many of these have a sensitivity of 50 volts and up. In order to check sources of voltage in consumer or car electronics, I use my Southwire NCV tester which has a 12v button which alters the sensitivity to detect low voltage sources. 2) DC current draw with the probes. This may vary per unit, but the inclusion of the clamp can dictate that the design intends you to use the clamp exclusively for DC current. That's a problem because small currents are swamped by noise from magnetic fields. An example is finding a parasitic draw from a car battery. I resorted to an inexpensive Innova 3320 and connected it in series with the negative terminal to measure current draw.
For small voltages/currents, use the probes that come with it and plug in to the bottom of the device. I assume that’s why this device will read micro amps based on the dial. Considering your examples the clamp would be a 95% answer while being more convenient… right?
I just ordered the kit. Thanks for the tutorial hopefully i can find the short on my Peterbilt.
excellent. You could have mentioned that the clamp meter shines when dealing with DC current say on a car to be testing amps.
When using a non-contact voltage detector, always check it against a known energized source to verify that the detector is working. I was taught to do that with any source from 48 volts and higher. Even with sources up to 100,000 volts with the proper equipment.
It just shows you how people will use a $10.00 tool and actually trust that tool so as not to hurt you or someone else or burn someone else's house down. Rather then buy a real tool and to it right. You see you have real electricians and you have helpers that really think they are electricians.
Yes, a Live-Dead-Live test. After you check on a known live source. Check that your target circuit is dead. And then check again on a known live source. A requirement at my power plant.
The one tool I always use: a good electrician, bc I don’t want to electrocute my not-an-electrician a$$ or die in an you’re-not-an-electrician fire. 😅
expensive tool
Skill issue
Why are you watching and leaving pointless comments on this video then?
@ I’ll have to research that and get back to you.
I don’t believe this bs. UA-cam removes the need for those types of “tools” (electricians) they can be really expensive and they aren’t making them in North America at the same rate that they are being retired. It takes years to make a basic one and how do you know if it’s a good one? So no, just watch UA-cam. Same thing with “doctors”
Jk of course
Very good video, thanks. Should have mentioned if the clamp feature works for DC amps. Many do not.
A multimeter is the only one really needed. It'll do it all but of course the others make some tests/checks much easier.
Excellent videos. The best in home security.
For only $17 more your can get the Klein CL800 and have DC clamp current eesding and other features
Nice. I bought the Klein Tools CL120 kit 6 months ago.
Price
I have the clamp version that does DC and AC amperage. The one thing that drives me nuts is the Auto off shuts the meter down within 1 to 2 minutes. You can defeat the auto shutoff by holding mode down while turning the meter on. It still beeps at you like it is about to turn off but doesn’t turn off.
For the DIY, Klein is a good brand and most are made in the USA
I upgraded to the kline that also reads DC amps. I repair appliances. I love it. And have the older one for back up.
Yeah the clamp meter I showed in the video won’t read dc amperage, the mm700 that I compared it to will up to 10 amps. I rarely need DC but can definitely see how you would. Thanks for the input!
Thank you. Now we need a video on power factor and those other rare / unknown statistics please!
I've been able to get the amperage by clamping just the very ends of it part way over the cable. Easier to do when the cable insulation shows a clear definition between the two wires. Harbor freight sells a plug in splitter by Ames, but it's huge compared to that one. It has 2 windows to clamp around, one for 1X, & one for 10X. I don't know the point in having both. It also has voltage check test points for multimeter probes, marked N, E, & L. I used a multimeter and read continuity to learn that N is neutral (as I expected), but found that E is actually for ground (Earth ground) and not for EMF like I had thought, & L is for Line (hot), which I couldn't figure out earlier since I thought the E was going to be hot as in EMF. I just figured that maybe it was one of those cheapo companies that does stuff weird and brushed it off. Personally I would've gone with H, N, G or at least put the earth ground symbol, and maybe color coded each letter black, white, & green. The test points only read to the prong (male) side of the device.
Nice video and presentation.
The one multimeter I longed for is one I can see the display without my hand holding it. It either suspended at my chest, magnet hang on sheet metal or both. I also want to rid of the probes that tide up both of my hands when I need to climb a short ladder. The conventional wisdom must be changed to more practical one.
Really like Fieldpiece HS33 Expandable Manual Ranging Stick Multimeter for HVAC/R. It is specifically made for hvac it is a base for clamp, mano meter, flow meter, temp clamp, etc and it will do everything except DC amps the only disappointment. Nothing replaces a outlet tester.
Klein makes good stuff. You sponsored by them? lol BTW, I do own and use the Klein CL120 tool and amperage devices.
The best Klein tool I have is the one with the outlet transmitter and the receiver tool for locating that circuit breaker.
@Bassmaster1256 yeah I really like their tools obviously. I am not sponsored by them or been sent anything for free. But if they wanted to do a sponsorship I would be open to it 😂. I just buy their electrical tools as most your pros are using them, they are good quality, and yet affordable. I have that same tool. It’s awesome. Have yet to make a video on it though 🤔
Thanks for saying Klein does not sponsor you. Your shoutout to them is great; however, based on the number of accusatory comments, your credibility might take a hit. Is there an inexpensive meter I can buy just to test my A/C (your A/C videos are amazing but the testers are beyond my budget)? Thanks!
There are just some things in life we cannot control. People’s opinions of us are one of those things. I give as good and honest information as I can. What everyone does with it is on them. Everyone wants to know what tools and materials I use, so I take the time to supply it. As long as I know I’m doing that, I sleep great at night. It depends on what you are wanting to test on the ac. Some of the things that I show in my AC videos require multimeters that have capabilities that standard multimeters don’t have. Unfortunately that usually means they cost more. But again, it just depends on what you’re wanting to test.
@@HowToHomeDIYThanks for your reply. I posted a new comment in case you don't see my response here.
@@CajunCoding Thanks very much. It's $56.99 on Amazon Canada. I would still prefer a tester that is less expensive. Do I need to measure soft start (not sure I watched a video on that)? I added a new comment that includes a link to photos of my unit. If you have a chance to look at it, I would really appreciate it!
@@chick-flick-cherry you aren't measuring the "soft start", you are measuring the "inrush current" of a device that has an inductive load (e.g. compressor, motor, etc.). That is one of the main features that bumps the pricing up is the ability to measure in-rush current. You don't necessarily need it, but it's an indispensable feature when you do. I had 3 different multi-meters before I realized I should have just gotten a better one -- buy-once-cry-once. Some examples of why you'd want inrush is if you had a solar generator (e.g. those new LifePo batter power banks by anker, ecoflow, bluetti, etc.) and wanted to know if it could run your Refridgerator or Freezer... well those have compressors so you'd have to measure the Inrush to know if the battery can support the max current needed. Same for a Window A/C unit you might want to run when power is out from a Hurricane (very common here in Louisiana), you'd have to be able to reliably measure the inrush of the Window A/C. So anything with a compressor, or motor has an Inrush spike that you'd need to know.
@@CajunCoding Thanks very much! I'm buying the Kaiweets you recommended.
Hi this outlet tester will be one for the uk plugs ? Thanks
The only thing I seen different is on Klein meter the extra toner. I knew everything else. What are the main things I look on a clamp meter can I get those batteries in AA or AAA since the most common one you'll find immediately is 9 volt which means you need to buy a battery some of the time when you need it on the job site. That's why I I spent extra time making sure I had a different battery size in my clap meter. I also like it the show positive and negative on voltage just in case if my electrical outlet tester is missing or broken. The next thing I liked on mine is temperature probe and 1000v rated I got mine on Amazon though not fluke brand since that would be way too out of budget to buy fluke. I've also made a cord for using with the clamp meter before though I do have a line splitter too. The only fluke tool which was all right on price was toner kit.
I'd get a Clamp On meter that can also measure DC Amps.... I just happen to have the Craftman make.
Those are exactly the same three tools I use to do electrical work. I don't see the need to replace mines with such a monster.
you can also take a small extension cord and separate out the wires to clamp around individual wires instead of buying that adapter.
Great video with excellent information.
I just built my own splitter with two plugs and some wire.
Instead of having a splitter, use a short flat extension cord [AC ext cord] and separate the three wires, and test the wiring that way.
Non-contact voltage testers are also referred to as death sticks...
Could you please explain that
@@TurdFerguson149 they work by detecting a changing magnet field they don’t detect DC, and they don’t detect a capacitive charge...
The tester WILL NOT detect voltage if:
• The wire is shielded.
• The operator is not grounded or is otherwise isolated from an effective earth ground.
• The voltage is DC.
The tester MAY NOT detect voltage if:
• The user is not holding the tester.
• The user is insulated from the tester with a glove or other materials.
• The wire is partially buried or in a grounded metal conduit.
• The tester is at a distance from the voltage source.
• The field created by the voltage source is being blocked, dampened, or otherwise interfered with.
• Operation may be affected by differences in socket design and insulation thickness and type.
• The frequency of the voltage is not a perfect sine wave between 50 and 500Hz.
The tester may detect at a different threshold at different conditions, or may not detect at all unless:
• The tip of the tester is within ¼" (6 mm) of an AC voltage source radiating unimpeded.
• The user is holding the body of the tester with their bare hand.
• The user is standing on or connected to earth ground.
• The air humidtty is nominal (50% relative humidity - non-condensing).
• The tester is held still.
Etc... do some research
I think the non-contact voltage tester is good for a double-check or second opinion. I have often made measurements where the voltmeter isn't reading because of oxidation or an intermittent connection. Whenever making any electrical measurement, I have made it a habit to always do a double-check, even when safety isn't an issue. For example, when measuring resistance, I always reverse the leads and measure again. When measuring a DC voltage, I always flip the multimeter into AC mode and measure again, then back to DC mode and re-measure. Surprises are common when you do this, which tells me it's worth doing; the better you understand the circuit and your measurement assumptions, the better off you are. I think it actually save time in the long run, less tail-chasing.
They are good to verify that voltage IS present. Not so much to verify it’s NOT.
@@tacotogoandbeaux4586 This right here
I don't believe you talked about the "LoZ" function some multimeters have, which is useful for killing "ghost voltage" issues. (Have you explained ghost voltages in a previous video? If not, I think that would be an excellent topic to cover, with live examples.) Personally, I wouldn't want to rely on a multimeter without it. It looks like the Klein CL700 thru CL900 have the LoZ mode; the CL800 also has DC current measurement, another absolute must for me these days, since I sometimes work on stuff with lead-acid or lithium battery packs.
Most of my clamp meter experience has been with Fluke clamp meters. With the Fluke clamp meters, you ALWAYS have to carry around at least an additional multimeter, since they lack needed features. For example, none of the clamp meters measure above a few thousand ohms. What's with that??? That missing feature (megohms measurement) has caused me some misdiagnosis grief, and that's the kind of stuff that sticks in your mind when shopping for a new measurement tool.
Anyway, your video has sold me on upgrading to the Klein CL800. It's missing inrush current, which I use on occasion, so I guess at least one of the Fluke clamp meters would still have a purpose. (Yes, I see that the CL900 has inrush current, but it lacks the 60A current range with 10mA resolution, and it's physically larger.)
I don’t think that clamp meter has a LoZ function. I have used this quite a few times at home.
Fantastic content 👌 👏 👍
That one does not appear to have Loz, a great way to minimize ghost voltages. Cheers
i will stick with my fieldpiece stick meter. it does all of that and has heads to do my HVAC work. i still have all the other tools. they can be faster to set up and find a problem and time is money.
I learned a lot.
Excellent, thank you
Straight to the point very nice. Lots of information thank u keep it up
So is the AC unit pulling 3.1 or 6.2 amps? You have different amperage with receptacle out and using the splitter.
Probably depends on whether it's running the fan only or both fan & compressor when he took each of the readings.
Also, it could be the difference between low fan & high fan.
Yup @nwil2003 is on the right track. The window ac is an inverter unit, so the compressor was pulling more current at that time.
Great information, thanks!
try using that to measure current in a populated distribution board !!
Great video. I am curious about the amperage readings you got. When you clamped around the wire to the outlet, it showed 3.3 amps. When you used the splittir, it showed 66.4, devided by 10 equals 6.6 amps, which is twice the first reading. Any clue why?
They are different AC units. From what I see in the video… The 3.3 amp version has a door within a few inches of the receptacle while the unit reading 6.6 amp does not.
"The air conditioner CURRENTLY is pulling 3.17 amps". I see what you did there :-)
Capacitance measurements is called resistance measured in ohms
Thank you for your videos. I do have an unusual question that I might have previously asked but did not receive an answer. I have what I think is an unusual problem. I have this full size freezer in the garbage which I know from the manual requires a 15 amp circuit breaker fuse. The lowest amp fuses in my fuse box are all 15 amp. The following morning after the freezer was plugged in and working fine, I thought that there would not be any complications; however a week later and the freezer is off with the outlet not with any power. Problem is that none of the circuit breakers are tripped. I checked all GFCI outlets in the entire house and all have power, so to me that is not the problem. So now with the outlet and entire circuit that the freezer was plugged into no longer has any power. Why is it that the circuit breaker did not trip? Very frustrating on what I am supposed to do to solve this? Any ideas?
the plug-in outlet testers are nice for testing gfi functions if it has that feature.
does this clamp multimeter have ac and dc amps or just ac?
The clamp meter should have been designed such that the clamping accessory attaches to the main unit via a sturdy 3 prong receptacle plug .The female end of which would be part of the clamping accesory while the exposed male plug would protrude from the main unit (at the connedction point). This would allow the main unit (minus the clamp) to plug into the receptical. How does this not make total sense?
Um, to check for open ground with the meter just put 1 probe in the hot slot and the other in the ground hole. There, it checks voltage and ground.
Yes I didn’t say it couldn’t do it, in fact I said the opposite.
Just saying that checking for ground is just as simple as testing for voltage. Everyone knows the round hole is ground. For correct polarity, yes they would need to know which side was hot vs neutral.
Awesome 👍 ty
Oh brother,they had an AMPROBE in the seventies and your just making this video now!!! Lol. Just kidding. Nice hidden features .great job
Your video content is always informative and interestingly presented. However, if you're open to constructive criticism, a tool or product you're discussing does not need to be shaken or moved about to emphasize your oral presentation; it just makes it more difficult to see.
Please keep them coming, as I learn from each of your posts.
great video
Harbor freight has the splitter at a reasonable price.
Electrician question: I have under the cabinet halogen lights in the kitchen. I have two strings both separate power switch. When I turn one string on the lights are normal bright. After a 15-30 second time frame the lights go dim and stay dim. Why?
When I turn on kitchen lights and turn on same under cabinet switch, kitchen led lights fade and go bright quickly. Why?
With all lights mentioned above are off the other string of under cabinet lights are switched on the lights sometimes come on or are super dim. Same circuit breaker. As other string.
Separate issue. I have a light switch that is in a group of 3 other switches. It has 113v on it. The rest in the group are 120. Why? Additionally I can’t figure out what it goes to.
Do you have a recommendation for a “ringer tool” to help search where the wires terminate at?
Thank you in advance
Why was the amperage reading 3 when going behind the outlet and 6 when using the splitter?
Can you make a video that it AUTOMATICCLY detects if it DC or AC with a clampmeter?
electrician here......i keep an old school solenoid tester, hi zoot digital hvac tech style. a widowmaker (non conact) and a cheapo continuity tester (easier to see).....sorry you cannot do it all effectively with one tool there are too many things to check for.....i also use a tone generator to find nodes on dead circuits......
I would have like to see the inrush amperage demostrated.
SO why is your AC unit pulling 3.17 amps when testing the wire directly but when using the splitter, it's showing 6.14 amps?
Just guessing but maybe unit was on low on first time and on high on second. Or perhaps compressor was engaged on second but not first.
You should point out that the multimeter will do dc voltages. If that is a feature someone looks for.
Do tools such as these have versions for working with 240v circuits. I've run a 240v line to my garage from the box and would like an outlet tester to double-check. I believe I used a 30 volt plug. Thanks!
you can just stick probe in each part of outlet to read the two 120 volt legs and across the 240 of both legs
Does the non contact clamp meter provide a better voltage reading?
The clamp part is only for measuring Amps. The voltage is measured same as with any other DMM and will likewise vary in accuracy from model to model.
Whyvwas the current for the AC reading multiplied by 10? and hence having to divide by 10.
That adapter he used is wrapped 10x
Makes it easier to measure small current
I've got an Ames clamp meter with non-contact voltage detection (where I just switch it to NCV), but it's TOO sensitive. It even picks up USB cables!
I’d
@@josiahmeyer7430 You'd?
Klein = goated
When I started we used a pig tail and a 220 volt light bulb. Had plenty of amp probes, now I have 2 flukes and an old recording amp probe. The old school amp probes we never used the leads, cuse the fuse wouldn’t blow fast enough.
😄👍Good To Know, Great Tips
I only use Fluke, buy it once, lasts 20 years.
I love my fieldpiece sc660
is there a splitter to handle a 20 amp breaker, when appliances require 20 , do they actually consume near 20, ?
12:45-14:00 - I'm confused though why one method of measuring the same thing is showing 3.2 amps and the other 6.2..?
Can the clamp meter measure DC amps?
Not this one in the video. Just DC voltage. They have some other models that can though.
You should inform model no. Of each Klein Tool