I don’t get why no one knows what these numbers mean
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Curious if you should buy a drill or driver? This is for you
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It is so refreshing to hear you state that most DIY'ers wont notice the difference in performance and looked at the bigger picture. So many people fanboy out on brands rather than being realistic about the end use.
Secondary tools are definitely the factor for choosing a brand. But this video title is clickbait...impact drivers are awesome except for hex head barn siding screws where they chip the paint off of the fastener.
@@deereboy8400 Oooh, I hate that.
Yeah, it's the ecosystem that matters and how quickly the damn battery packs go toes up! One cell dies and the whole pack is toast - that sucks!
Most of my tools are makita , needed new lawn mower and Makita had "40 year in Finland sale", so i picket that and a leaf blower, because that kit had batteries.
Framing nailer of mine is Hitachi, old name because they sell so few 21° framing nailers, that kit came with batteries and a drill on top of that .
Makita garden shears are too expensive, so i got DeWalt instead and a battery adapter, it does not need much power, so there is no risk with battery adapter.
Also laser levels and equipment for those, all type of brands, red and green glasses were same, the cheapest ones for €5 or brand name for €25, exactly same product.
20+ years ago I drove a screw with an impact driver and have never gone back to driving screws with a drill.
Strange how no one needed an impact driver until 20 years ago. They still don't.
@@Mark-l9k9q 30 years ago no one needed a mobile phone. They still don't. 🤣
@@mattanderson2074
True, and neither impact drivers, nor mobile phones have improved anything.
@@Mark-l9k9q I disagree.
I screwed down deck boards all day (about 600 screws) and at the end of the day I practically had to use my left hand to unwrap my fingers from the drill grip. It was a couple of days before I could hold my beer in that hand without any pain. With a drill you have to fight against and counter the torque.
The two years later I did another section, twice the size, and just happened to have an impact driver. I didn't really know much about them, but it was available so I decided to give it a try. That new section took me about the same amount of time as the first, smaller section, and had no pain or cramping from holding the tool all day.
Saying no one needed them 20 years ago is like saying no one needed a power drill 100 years ago, and they still don't. The whole point of tools is to augment human capabilities.
My girlfriend has no trouble helping with home construction projects with the impact driver. If she uses the drill she's good for about 3 minutes and says that's it.
Drills can't be beat for drilling but are far inferior to impact drivers for any kind of construction screw.
@richadent968 exactly my experience
Something that gets overlooked is 12v vs 18/20v.
When I'm working on something, I find myself reaching for my 12v tools more. They provide enough power for 80% of what I do and are notably lighter. For an average, weekend DIYer, I usually say to save a few dollars and get the 12v.
I think that’s a really good point I missed!
I don’t know: my 12 V drill weighs 1.1 kg, my 18 V drill 1.5 kg - a difference, but it’s not significant unless you use those things all day. But it is smaller, which can be a real advantage.
However, I quickly switched from 12 V to 18 V for the reason that is given in the video: I have the same weed whacker and a bunch of other tools that use the same batteries as the drill. Among them a handheld vacuum cleaner, which at 18 V just about sucks enough to make it useful.
I’m not unhappy that I’m set up for the 12 V system, but I could probably do without it.
Also depends very much on how the tool is designed. My Metabo 12V is WAY more powerful than my milwaukee that I bought because someone kept preaching about how great they are ._. TLDR dont buy em. Too expensive for what they provide
Came here to say the exact same thing. I have an M18 drill but have barely touched it since I bought the M12 Fuel drill/driver set. The M18 only comes out these days if I'm using a hole saw or a big masonry bit.
I will second that. 12v pocket drill/drivers are the best option for any DIYer or Pro. Cheaper, better ergonomics, plenty of power for mostly any type of project, and safer for the user and the project. I have corded drills and a press for the heavy duty stuff.
The electric clutch drill sounded like a clown car horn when the clutch engaged! 🤣
I did not expect that😆😆
#1) The bag/box keep your tools clean when stored in the garage - no dust, sawdust, spiders, bugs, leaves, etc on the tools. #2) The bag/box keeps all related stuff organized and together. The drill, battery, extra battery, charger, bits, extensions, etc are all together. No hunting or forgetting. Grab the bag and you've got everything you need.
Get some Klein toolbags for the accessories. Amazon has different types and sizes that are amazing high quality at a good price. Chuck a couple of silica gel packets in all your bags.
The bag/box is for filling with rocks ducttaped together so they feel likenthey are full of tools and batteries. Padlock them closed and leave them accessable so theives looking fkr targets of opportunity geab them first and run hoping to nab a few batteries they can sell. But just get rocks instead.
@@jamesbarisitz4794the Amazon tool bag (large) is perfect for a drill, 2 batteries and a 50pc bit set.
Also, thanks for the tip about the silica gel! Will grab some from work tomorrow!
@Crayma800
Glad to help. 👍
Bro I needed this like 5 years ago when I started buying my first tools 😭Either way still nice to learn some of this stuff in more detail now. Love you and your videos, keep em coming
Ryobi gets a lot of flack but I used a $150 18v drill/driver combo set from them to build out a 800sqft basement, 16x10 shed, 12x12 deck, and build a bunch of furniture. I’ve no complaints
They work quite well. They are just a very ugly color lol. I believe the problem comes where they claim to be budget, yet are not much less than something like a dewalt usually.
Agreed. For me as a non-trade user, Ryobi has served me well.
My 20 y/o blue Ryobi driver is still going strong!
Ryobi will outwork 90% of consumers needs.
Ryobi is like 33% cheaper than DeWalt across Canada so as a DIY/hobby guy they're my absolute go-to
Do Not buy over powered drills or drivers, for 99% of my usages I use my M-12 drill and/or driver over my M-18 drill or driver. The M-12 are much lighter and smaller and lighter therefore easier to use.
My M12 impact can fully sink timber screws. The M18 can probably sink them faster but the difference probably isn't worth the price or weight
Beware of generalizations. Some tasks require serious power, like removing CV axle nuts, shaft yoke bolts and damper bolts. Again not everyone is just hanging pictures. Light tools for light work and heavy hitters for more demanding work make each task dramatically easier.
@@Comm0ut
You appear to be equating an impact driver with an impact wrench, they are vastly different I highly doubt that my M-18 impact driver would remove lug nuts where as my 1/2” impact wrench no sweat
@@monteglover4133 You are correct that you need an impact wrench to remove lug nuts. I have the Milwaukee M-18 Impact wrench Model # 2863-20, it has 1400 ft lbs of torque! I used it to remove a CV axle nut, when nothing else would budge it. It also makes quick work when removing any large bolts from the car. This impact wrench can use the same M-18 batteries I use on my Drill and my Impact driver. I find the M-18 impact driver is actually pretty light weight for the power it has and better balanced than the M-12 impact driver we have at work. Plus the M-18 batteries last much longer than M-12 when putting in deck screws or anything that requires a lot of run time, even when using the smallest M-18 batteries.
One other note on impact drivers: if you work on cars, appliances, etc (anything with bolts that you’d use a socket set and ratchet with), an impact driver is amazing for that.
Can confirm
Yup, indispensible, especially for zipping out the 35 8mm bolts holding on the engine shields covering the top of your engine.
Just make sure you're using impacts for undoing fasteners only, use a torque wrench (or the correct size ratchet and feel/experience) for tightening or you'll strip threads and shear bolts.
@chemistrykrang8065 THey work fine for zipping on connectors, you just leave a few turns to contact and torque by hand
As car wrenching mechanic I can confirm impact is superior on nuts and bolts... Drills are for drilling
Bro, you’ve made it. Festool driver, under cabinet microwave and delivery meal plans! Well done man.
Lmao right. You can tell when tuber's hit a certain point. Its when those companies approach them.
13:04 This deserves more attention. It's where the combo really shines. Any project with multiple screws to sink will go way easier with the combo.
13:20 If the tool came in a bag, I use the bag. It keeps the tools clean and convenient, easy to carry to the job. The hard cases, though, are really useless. I don't know why. Just harder to put the tools back. I don't use them except one I repurposed to hold my pop rivets and tool.
The combo kits are marketed well during the holidays. You get a choice of one tool, one battery, or two tools, two batteries, at about the same price (for the homeowner brands).
@@adamdejesus4017 Yep. That was my first combo: 2 batteries, a driver, a drill, a charger, and the bag, on special for Christmas.
I got regular tool boxes for my cordless tools. I have one with all my drilling/driving tools and one with all my cutting tools, with bits, drills, and blades inside. Charger and batteries ae in another bag. I grab two boxes and one bag and have everything needed to work.
... and I feel stupid now.. do you know how many projects I have worked on and kept switching out out the bit?
I like the hard cases with certain tools; like your pop rivet case - if the tool needs a bunch of accessories, like a rotary hammer with all your SDS+ or SDS max bits, sanders with all different grit sanding pads, oscillating multi-tool with all of the bits, rotary tool with all of the little Dremel bits. and of course the battery.
Your videos are great, straight to the point, no fluff, and humor inserted as needed LOL ALSO I appreciated that you kept working and showing what you were changing on the dial even while doing the food promo. I know content providers get income from ads that allow them to keep making videos for us viewers so I understand the interruptions here and there but i didn't even have to fast forward here!
The bags are now my husband's luggage. He can always spot them on the carousel. ❤❤❤
I used a large Milwaukee combo tool bag as luggage. It went missing at the airport and never made it to the carousel. Luckily, it was found near a dumpster, opened and abandoned. The thief was a baggage employee spotted on camera. I figure he thought it was a bag full of new Milwaukee tools. Haha. I switched back to a regular bag. Thx.
I live in Australia. Your videos are essential in helping me sort stuff out. By not over investing in stuff i do not need.
Living in Canada , most people use the Robertson screw head. 'Square' hole and MUCH better at reducing ruining a Screw Head under pressure. Not sure if they are used much in US but maybe you should do a video on the comparison between Phillips Head and Robertson Head screws. Of course almost all drywall screws are Phillips Head but we manage!
I learned about Robertson heads building sets in theater. Here in the states, we generally just get square drive, which is similar but avoids some expensive licensing issues. I get mine from McFeelys, good quality stuff. Another advantage is you can just stick the screw on the end of the bit and put it where you want, it'll tend to stay there and not fall off. They also were a minor plot element in the animated film The Mitchells vs The Machines.
Used to stock the Robertson screws but switched over to torx. Cheap sheet rock screws generally are no problem when going into 2 by 4" studs.
So disappointed Jon! You said there were links to all the products in the description. So after the video I checked but for the life of me I could not find an affiliate link to the pasta sauce! My day is ruined and my spaghetti is sauceless!
Maybe change the title to "no impact driver for fine woodworking". But I use mine all the time, maybe my finger is calibrated.
I have a dewalt brushless impact. I’m a professional electrician. The tool lasted me over 7 years of daily use and abuse. Absolutely love impacts and would never even consider swapping with a drill.
However I do not use my impact as a drill.
Dedicated drill for drilling lol. Use tools as they were intended and they will last forever
Great advice on the hammer setting. I bought a set of drill/driver and it did not have a hammer setting. Three years later, I needed it so now I have three drills/drivers - but hey same batteries! Good video and thanks!
Next is the 1/2" drill for coring out apples. I mean, beams. Beams. Yes. Also best if you need to drill thru an autos frame. You'll burn up all your batteries with a 3/8th drill trying to get thru that shit.
I recommend going to habitat or goodwill for a solid old drill that comes with the extra side handle, just to keep as a dedicated mixer.
Grab an extra angle grinder or two while ur there. It's sooo much nicer, and faster, to just have dedicated grinders.
I have a drill with a hammer setting. I also now have a hammer drill because the hammer drill is at least 10 times faster than my drill with the hammer setting when working concrete.
If you get an impact driver, make sure the collar is a simple "push in to lock" operation. Some require you to pull the collar while inserting the bit and it gets old real fast.
I never use the clutch when running screws into wood. The torque needed for a flush screw varies too much. When working with metal, the clutch can come in handy, though.
LOVE the Cyber Truck joke!!!!!
If you own one of these drivers and still have trouble driving the screw into hard wood try dragging the screw across a small bar of hand soap and you will probably say, wow, why didn't i think of that.
I had a wasp nest under a board of my deck. Made the mistake of using the impact driver to take the screws off the deck board… got stung. lol. Love the impact driver for fast screwing. But the drill has its place. Avoiding the disturbance of wasps I learned is one of them.
I 100% agree with all of this. My only Add is screw choice.
I find standard cheap wood screws will snap with an impact driver almost always, whereas almost any other screw wont... My experience, I use my drill to screw in these screws.
I never use the screws that come with products. For example, window blinds. Those screws are not only dull, but they snap even with a normal drill and often cam out easily.
You can fit larger than half inch drill bits into a half inch chuck, btw.
Hammer mode on these drills is trash. A cheap hammer drill from habor freight is substantially better than drill with hammer setting.
Usually so. I seems a hammer drill can do up to a 1/4 -5/16 okay. Over that, hope you only need to put in one or two. But my old blue ryobi is a better hammer drill the newer gutless green one. Everything on the old blue one is massive.
It's easy if you're a european = drill, if you're an american = driver 🤣
Beautiful video, very well done and informative with a little Lincoln Street flare💜
Keep up the great work brother🙌⚡️🙌
@13:00 The time saved by having a dedicated drill for piiot holes+counter sinking and a driver for the screws is an oft underrated luxury. Like having a dedicated palm router with a round over bit or having a GlueBot. 😂.
This is mostly about convenience, not time. Sometimes I end up having to switch a lot instead of being able to drill all the holes first, and while I don’t really care if it takes 30 minutes or 38, it’s really annoying,
@@mm9773Time is money on a jobsite. Having both at hand saves time, which of course is more convenient.
In the uk, it's common to purchase a 2 pack drill and impact driver
Don’t let the availability of a particular tool decide which manufacturer the rest of your 18v tools will be simply due to battery compatibility. These days there are battery adapters available allowing one to mix and match 18v tools and batteries. Now one can get the best tool for the job without worrying about stocking a veritable plethora of batteries and chargers to use it.
Great stuff and even better advice. I get so tired of tool brand snobs. Are some tools better than others? Of course. Does every weekend warrior need to take out a loan for tool when there are much less expensive options? Heck no! I 100% agree with you, pick a battery platform and stick with that as the norm. I still prefer a couple tools to be corded so for those I can choose whichever I want.
I've actually literally never thought about throwing out those bags... I'll throw mine out if you throw out yours :P
electronic clutch is supposed to be used at second speed
I have a floor to ceiling shelf that is full of empty cases!!! I really do enjoy your channel. Timothy
That m12 driver w modes essentially sloves the one issue you've pointed out with using a driver instead of a drill (too much power and the risk of shearing screw heads). With it's ability to power through or operate with finesse, in my opinion it is absolutely the best choice for either purpose. Before this brilliant product came out, a separate drill was a must. Since it's introduction, my drill collects dust. There is a learning curve to the modes and their proper implementation, but once you got it figured out there's no looking back.
Wow!Wow! WOW!!! This has been the most comprehensive explanation of the difference of the two tools I've seen, not to mention how to properly use the myriad of settings. Very clear and fully informative. Excellent video Thank you very much!
I spent 10+ years working professionally as a woodworker. I absolutely will not ever go without a 1/4" impact driver ever again. I literally only use a drill for drilling holes, and I only drill pilot holes when necessary. I already have my setup, but for most household use, I would definitely buy a 1/4" impact driver before I bought a drill, but I find that household uses call for driving screws far more often than drilling holes.
Thanks for your great descriptions. Cheers
ooh, new camera. fancy pants over here. the production value has increased, panning shots of products, well centered, etc. Also, that's the best way to get people to stick through an ad read. keep doing things relevant to the video content...brilliant!
Don't give up, one day you will have to courage to throw the case away. It took me about 15 years to get the courage myself, but once you do, it is so liberating. Great video, thanks for sharing.
If you take the time to remove the form fitting bits from the hard cases, they're great as misc tool cases. I use them for go bags for the car (eg jumper cables, first aid, gloves, spare tools, fire extinguisher, etc)
I actually use my big soft sided case on the shelf to hold most of the set. It is wide open and keeps it all accessible. Never used it to carry them except when I moved to the next house. 😂
I still wonder why no one has ever made a drill/driver bundle with assorted drill and driver bits. I get that their profit comes from follow-up sales but that’s mostly other tools for the battery line since there is nothing forcing you to stay with the same brand for a bit set. It seems that the first to do that with a Black Friday bundle will get all the new power tool customers.
Nice one!
You forgot to write "first" 😅
The Festlool drill looks very unconfortable. Seems it gives a twist at your arm as the clutch engages!!
No I didn't. I bought all the right ones.
Noice
Actually, Keeping pasta sauce in the workshop is generally frowned upon by both cooks and tool enthusiasts alike. Otherwise, good stuff.
This is a fantastic introduction to Drill's and Drivers that will serve any newbie well. My biggest advice is choose a battery platform and stick with it. All my battery tools are Milwaukee. When it comes to corded tools, I am not a brand snob.
Actrually, you'll be quite surprised what people know. I personally have known what those numbers mean since I got my first drill.
Hello Lincoln ST Wood Works
I just found your channel and subscribed. Thank you for posting this video today. However, I already bought M12 combo kit from Home Depot a while back. I do use my tools. There's always something to learn. Thank you 😊
Good job on the info & explanation. A couple more details re inserts & holders.
Some insert holder, especially those w/ the slide sleeve for holding screws & allowing one hand screw driving, are aluminum, not steel. Only steel insert holders should be used w/ an impact driver.
It'll beat the alum holders to death.
Re cam outs in phillips heads. Not all cam outs are caused by too much torque. There are two types of phillips screws, one is shallower & is more frequently found in machine screws. It may be JIS, Japan(ese) Industrial Something or other. I also find differences in phillips sheet metal screws &/or in inserts.
If you look closely at phillips 1" long inserts, one will look like it's a smaller diameter. They both are #2 bits, (phillips sizing is 0-4, zero smallest, at least; may be a 00), but some wood type/sheet metal screws will cam out like crazy w/ the larger looking bit, but work fine w/ the other. Or... vice versa.
I was an early adopter of screws in construction, the early '90's, before there were readily available construction screws. I switched to screws as a remodeling carpenter/contractor.
I had to switch to screws because of shoulder problems from being an apprentice before nailing guns were normal. For 3-4 years I packed lumber, nailed studs during wall construction & hand nailed all the T&G 2 X 8 Subfloor & all the plywood wall & roof sheathing.
To get the old 'them damn nailers don't hold as good as a 16d/8d galv nail' curmugeon I worked for to accept nail guns, I bought a used setup from a retiring contractor & shamed the curmugeon into using it & buying it from me, (It might have helped change his mind when I slid a piece of 1/2" cdx into his metal tool box, under his lunch & put a couple of 1/2" crown sheathing stables into the subfloor. He about tipped over when he grabbed it at lunch & it didn't move.
I deadpanned from the stack of studs I was perched on, to eat: 'It's only got a couple of them staples that don't hold anything. You should be able to just pull them loose...'.
I've tried a half dozen times to definitively know about & be able to identify the different phillips screws & bits.
I gave up. I now just make sure I've got plenty of every different kind of phillips I can find & except for the screws I still haven't used up, I use primarily torx w/ some Roberson/square thrown in.
One last tip from an early adopting old timer. Those funny looking a symetric phillips? The one's w/ different length crosses? They dominate electrical stuff, but I find them elsewhere.
There is a bit specifically made for those; found it on Ali Express. Come in 3 sizes, buy all 3 & buy multiples. Once you use them, you'll want to give them to all your buddies & once co-workers try one, they'll steal 'em.
They are THAT good. Recall the 1st time you power drove a torx or square drive wood screw, that solid POWER drive feeling you got? These asymetric phillips bits feel like THAT!
GeoD
To be completely honest people waste so much money on so many things... Getting both a good impact and a good drill shouldnt be a concern. Different tools, for different applications, of you stay on the same platform i.e. Makita 18V LXT then you dont need to get a gazillion different battery either.
These are super sturdy, dont break from underusing them, dont really need maintenance so you can just chuck them in the garage and use it twice a year, no problem. Battery might die on you, but all major brands sell batteries for really old devices (or they dindt change the connection)
I think part of tool selection is how can I be more productive. At the end he points out something I'd like to amplify. Having both a drill and impact driver means you can quickly drill pilot holes and then drive the screws without having to change bits and (God forbid) change settings on the drill.
In my case I got a standalone drill first, then a combo set. So now I have two drills. I'm working on a project now that requires two drill bits to create the pilot holes and it's so nice to have three devices with each bit ready to use. Slam, bam, thank you ma'am.
I dumped dewalt. Milwaukee is better. If I COULD ONLY have one, would be the driver. Light and powerful. FYI, hammer drill function sucks. If you need to put holes in concrete, get an sds corded hammer drill. They are amazing! Love my bosch bulldog. It also works like a small jackhammer. Love my m18 driver. Small builder for over 20 years.
DeWalt #1
Edit: seriously though, it comes down to me buying some knee pads from DeWalt now I'm committed 😂
I recon my 10 Dollar mini screw gun from wal-mart that they call the 'HYPER TOUGH 4a' (they capitalized it, not me) could outdo all of these, and it's probably about a third of the size- chargeable with a USB-C cable- very convenient!
You would really throw those bags away? I’d pay for shipping and some extra money for your time if you sent them to me. I work for a family business installing awnings and electric roll screens we use those bags for all sorts of items to keep them organized in our two vans! We can’t seem to get enough of them so if you really are gunna throw them away I’d pay for the shipping and your time! The hard cases I can’t do much with them but the soft bags heck yeah!
Awesome, in depth education on the differences. I did not know the inner workings of each which was very interesting, thank you! Now my rant: Festool is SO OVER PRICED... and dare I say, overrated too. Just my opinion!
I have multiples of both these tools. I’ve never taken the time to actually learn what each setting on the drill is. Awesome video!
The small Makita impact now has 4 speeds and a couple of other touches. I got the drill/impact combo and flog them daily.
My son is a sparky, and in his work, he uses tools harder than I do. Needs some more specialised tools eg auto caable tie inserters etc, ert.
Milwaukee is his choice.
So many noobs buy "the best", based on 'religion' , never asking the question "best for what"?
Would you use a PORSCHE to move house? Or take a truck to the racetrack?
Buy what is appropriate, and in budget. A few uses per year? Get reasonable low cost tools.
It's not a male jewellry show with bragging rights ...
Not that it matters but is there a word missing in the title of the video? I'm assuming it should read "Most People Don't Know What These Numbers Mean"? Apologies if it's already been pointed out/corrected. Great video as always!
Your video was good until you made it into add while your working. Worse concept ever and I hope that doesn't catch on with other UA-camrs.. as it will kill the platform
I use the impact drive most of the time, even for drilling wood or masonry. Ease and quickness of changing bits is the main advantage. I use the drill mostly for specialized non-hex shank bits or when I want to control the depth of screws. I have even used the impact driver on plumbing faucets to remove frozen nuts that cannot be removed with hand tools. Other cordless tools I use are the oscillating multitool and circular saw. I have a dedicated corded hammer drill (which I purchased used/cheap).
The bags are useful to carry tools and supplies to multiple properties. I use one bag to carry the cordless tools and another bag to carry supplies and accessories. Previously, I put them all in the same bag, but it became unwieldy and more difficult to put the cordless tools into.
Mechanical clutch also allows you to use it as a pseudo-"impact" drive - I've needed that a couple of times; it's great for unscrewing old rusty screws without breaking them (note: sometimes you'll need to go back and forth in direction a few times).
Ryobi - impact driver + drill. Driver gets used 50% of the time but the drill is necessary too. Just as you advised, go with what works. And for the hammer drill? A corded Ryobi. It's not needed very often but for masonry, it can't be beat.
Cordless Industrial HILTI. Military grade. Not for the feint of heart. Good idea to use ear protection.
Legend says they're forged by elves.😉
Absolute BS Keyless chucks are horrible. Bits are also available smaller than a 3/8 chuck can hold. Why did you not just Philips heads on your torque example? (they cam out anyway)
I love my Milwaukee M18 Impact Driver. Ive used for drilling through harder metals, removing stuck bolts on my motorcycle, as well as a few other applications. The speed selector makes a huge difference. It made quick work of everything i through at it, some of which the drill struggled with. The drill still has its place, of course, but im using my impact driver 99% of the time over a drill for what i need to do.
You've convinced me. I'm buying a Impact/drill combo from Festool.
😂
I thought milwaukee was expensive lol
Lmao
😂🤣😂🤣
Excellent explanations--I like having the drill set up for pilot holes and the driver set up with a screw bit. But I have overdriven screws with the impact driver, splitting wood and breaking screws on occasion. And those bags that tools come in: if you have children, you can use the bags to put together a small tool kit for them when they move out. Granted, you might have to wait a few years depending on their ages . . . and their inclination to keep living at your house well into their 20s 🙂
Cross-brand battery adapters and systems, like Ceneer, allow you tochoose any brand power tool. Milwaukee driver, DeWalt drill, Ryobi edger using the same battery.
I worked at a garden center years ago for an owner was cheap to the point he would end up spending more.
One ways he was cheap was instead of hiring professional carpenters for building annual displays, pergolas, enclosures and tables, he would just have us build them and for some reason me specifically. I was 20 and had never built any thing or had a knowledge on wood working. While building a bunch of simple tables with butt joints and screws. We only had drill/drivers (what the owner referred to as screw guns)no impact drivers. The screws kept camming out until I noticed the clutch, played with it and I did not cam out another screw. However my employer came around to check on the progress and heard the drill clutch engage while I was driving a screw and told me to stop because I am breaking the drill. I told him it is supposed to do that and he said it isn’t and that I was breaking it.
When he walked away I continued using the clutch and the tool never broke.
A good general video. But you missed an important aspect. Been in the repair/construction trade for 55+ . All the new settings on a drill is just an effort to make a drill do more at the cost of longevity. A hammer drill, essential for drilling, Masonary, concrete or rock. The clutch setting for driving screws important to control screw depth. But where a true drill shines Is the infinitely variable speed of the trigger. When drilling hardwood or medals controlling the speed will keep from overheating and destroying drill bits. If you can afford, only one, A good drill with Settings. If you’re serious about your work and can afford it, get one of each. In the long run it will cost you less.
A quick tip for Anyone who has a collection of un used tool cases. Saw out the interior plastic that should hold the tool and you now have a sturdy case for things if you are on a job site or carry tools around. I myself have a case for screws a case for straps and a case for kit. They are nice to have because they are stackable and lock together.
Well, actually….😂 Just kidding great video. You are right though, the comment section is wild with “That Guy.” Keep it up.
Regarding the hammer drill functionality: since getting an SDS+ drill I've realized that all hammer drills are a joke, don't splurge, and instead rationalize the cash to get an SDS if you need one.
I have the Makita xgt drill and driver. They are fantastic. The drill has an electric clatch with multiple different settings and the driver as four different speed settings. The only thing I can say is that the driver is pretty over powered for some jobs e.g. cabinet making. Often I use an electric screwdriver for the finer install work. I do want one of the Milwaukee M12 installation drivers but I'm not paying $700 for one (new Zealand prices).
All of your comments are perfect and correct. Anyone driving (or using) Phillips screws for anything deserves to cam-out. I hate them. (they are actually designed to cam-out, it's a feature)
I like Makita. You can find a lot more Chinese clones that use that same battery platform. I have a “makita” impact driver that’s orange from Ali express and it cost like $35 shipped. Been working for like 5 years so far. It’s super loud though. Not sure if a real makita would be a little quieter.
I like Makita. You can find a lot more Chinese clones that use that same battery platform. I have a “makita” impact driver that’s orange from Ali express and it cost like $35 shipped. Been working for like 5 years so far. It’s super loud though. Not sure if a real makita would be a little quieter.
Very insightful video. And you’re so right about the true difference between brand for the typical DIYer. However I believe certain criterias can favor a certain drill model vs another. For me its the weight, the price (deals) and two batteries and the charger. Went with Bosch but I dont plan on buying any of their other tool. I’m going with Ryobi if I ever need more power tools than what I have. And maybe I’m the only one but I use the bag that came with the drill pretty often😂.
"Begs the question" doesn't mean what you think it means. Look it up. If you say "raises the question" instead, you don't look quite so illiterate.
I broke both impact & non-impact rated bits & bit boots in a 1/4” hex Rigid 18v impact driver. Some breakage with the Rigid 18V drill on max torque too.
I've saved every screw, nut, bolt, and washer I've ever touched ... why in the hell would I ever throw out the cool bag or case the tool comes in? If nothing else, repurpose it. Then again, I guess that's why my shop looks the way it does ... haha! Great video as usual, Lincoln.
Thank frig he’s not plugging use your drill to put lag screws in and constantly burn out motors and batteries. Like most of the UA-camrs now putting in one screw “ LoOk It gO FAsTEr 🤪”
Moving from keyed to keyless was a terrible decision. The chuck is now the failure point of the drill. I probably tossed more than a half dozen for chucks no longer opening, hell we had 3 different drills that we used for months after the chuck failed until the bits wore out.
In that Makita you will find two profiled gears that engage with each other causing their teeth to 'jump out'. So it is not even hammering action. I know this because I am just repairing one. Advice: don't buy these tools to drill in concrete. It may work for bricks.
I am building a deck these days and have both from Ryobi. The drill does not have the clutch setting. I am fine with that but what surprises me is that the driver is much less "powerful" than the drill. So the screws don't go deep enough when I use the driver (the hole is pre-drilled). I have to finish them either manually or with the drill using torx bit. Is this normal with impact drivers?
I noticed a little kick when the festools clutch kicked in.
Getting an impact driver made a huge difference for general construction things around the house and garden, but it is strictly only for that. Driving screws into furniture and interior walls is where the combi drill and its clutch come in. You really need both, and I've had enough wrist yanks and rounded out screw heads to know I can't get away with just using a drill.
I'm having an extra marital affair with my Impact Driver. Use it for all applications--works perfectly!
I know what they mean. They're easy numbers, I learned them in preschool.
While I was skeptical of your title, your conclusion at the end was right on. Summary: if you only get one of those two type of tools, for sure get the drill. But, an impact driver is an amazing tool and I use it more frequently than my drill. If you can, get both in the first kit you get, saves money versus buying tools one at a time.
Impactor all the way, i dont care much for drills now i buy now drill bits designed for impactors .
The only thing i dont have are whole saws for impactor but otherwise I'd get rid of my drill.
All my tools are still in cases. Keeping unnecessary dust and moisture away from them. Because I dont have a heated UA-cam friendly clean shop to put them in. 😅
use a 12v.. When the battery goes out, strip the batteries out, attach 6 ft cord, and use a large gel 12V battery. Lighter, and no charge all day.
Last year the combos were a pretty good deal at the big box stores. From whenever they started their Black Friday until maybe after the new year.
The Cybertruck tows better than my F-150. Much more secure control, less trailer sway.
I stopped watching the second your food commercial started. I also turn off notifications and unsubscribed.
Most drills dont have the punch to drive long deck screws all day . They usually runn out of power , when the screw is half way down , impact gun drives them every time . Just sayin .