take to a dealer or someone that has the snap-on scanner with the proper program. clear all shifting sequences out and then tell it to relearn. drive it according to the process and it has to be at least warmed to 180 degrees. the computer remembers the drivers way of driving. when you take off from a stop, don't be afraid to step on it and get going, turbo lag is present , it's a diesel, drive it like one. Oh and 37 degrees is warm, we drive with windows open yet up here in western WI.
I know its a 4 year old video but could help others looking for same problem. For sure its either the transmission range selector for the blinking OD light or the wires that run to it are sometimes too close to the exhaust manifold and they dry out and get brittle. This will create hard jerky shifts everytime and sometimes combined with a bit higher idle.
Go down to a ford dealer go to the parts desk and order a transmission shifter. And take the old one out the wire will be chafed. That will take care of 99 precent of the problems. I know that because I had the same problem with an 01 5.4l gas v8. Ford could not find anything wrong with it. But overdrive would come out then check engine mil or light will come on. It is a problem with the 4r 100 or 5r110 transmission
Your low Sensor is going out and it’s over revving the transmission with a not enough drag on it mine is going through the exact same thing and you might have to have your transmission rebuilt
My 97 f-250 had a shift problem like yours in the video, It turned out to be a speed sensor $30 later its doing fine. my sensor is located on top of the rear end, you my want to take a stab at changing yours out before doing anything expensive. I hope this helps.
Not too long after I uploaded this video, my dad pulled a trailer with this, and after the trailer was unhooked and he was driving home, the whole trans blew on him. $3,000 later, got it completely overhauled along with a billet torque converter upgrade.
100% flush and replace or remove the remote transmission filter under the a/c This problem just cost me $3000! Mine is the 2001 f250 super duty v10 with the R4100. 500 bucks for 17 quarts of fluid the 2 filters an new pan gasket. It was to late.. I found 2 x 1/4 inch filter fibers so off to the shop it went. Note 2001 148000 miles found it had already had a re-manufactured trans....Thanks Car Fax! this truck gets used but babied.
You probly have this fixed. My 2000 f350 was going the same thing. Now i have to replace the transmission. If you develop a vibration when driving get it in a shop asap. Or you will end up replacing both transfure case and transmission like i have to.
My truck wouldn't start very well in colder weather so I tried replacing the batteries, then all of the original glow plugs (even though they tested okay) and it was only a slight improvement, then about a year and a half later I had a no start and it threw a glow plug controller code. I replaced the controller and it starts in about 2 seconds in freezing weather.
you need to check your injectors. they should have a gap of at least 6 thou. if thats the issue. purchace injector shim kits from Ebay S70.. My problems completely resolved. OR buy new injectors. $$$$.
l have 5.4 engine on 2005 f250, transmission issues only after drinking around 15 minutes, check engine light was on showing selenoy A , l install new selenoy but still same issues
That cold start "romp" issue can be cleared up with 5w40 syn. motor oil. That being a 2001 4r100 look into a "mechanical diode" if you havent fixed it already. They are a fail point for the 2001 4r100. To fix that issue you will need to replace or rebuild the transmission.
My 02 f350 has a remanufactured transmission with 18k on it, on cold days l get a delay and a jerk going into reverse, only once then it's ok until the next day when it's cold ?
If that light comes on starts flashing that's an indicator that there is a problem in the transmission electrical it's a transmission indicator just as the engine light is an indicator for the engine emissions if that light on the shift lever starts coming on you need to take it in for Diagnostics otherwise you just getting my guess and his guess what guess you want first LOL
Glow plugs stay lit even after wait to start light goes out. Give it at least 30-45 seconds. Your glow plugs are fine or it wouldn’t start at all at that temp no matter how many cycles you do. Normally you can hear the glow plug relay kick off when glow plugs are up to temp
I own 2, 99 7.3 230,000 stock miles, 4x4 Dually, crew cab, lariat, 4x4, and a 06, 6.0 diesel, SRW crew cab king ranch 4x4, 50, 000 on second motor, 400,000 miles on truck. They are notorious for developing hard start/cold start issues. Especially my 99, which is my baby, and the built one I haul with. So even tho we live in eastern NC, it hits 40 degrees or forecasted to drop below 40, she gets plugged in period. The 6.0 gets the same treatment. While my husbands 98.5 Dodge Ram 2500, the beast that she is, won’t miss a beat in a blizzard. Love all 3 of our girls, and each is here for specific reasons where they perform the best at.
@@johnproper2337 I never have issues with mine in Wisconsin. Use to start good at -15 without being plugged in but now if it’s gonna be below 0 I plug it in. Decided to be nice to the old girl lol
The overdrive is blinking because it has thrown a code. So something is wrong and when you get the code read it will tell you what that is. I would do that first and most likely it's what's causing the transmission to shift differently. Most likely it's a sensor that needs to be replaced. The actual transmission is probably fine.
I'll be taking it to a local shop to have it's 150k oil change and have them flush the transmission and put fresh new fluid and also diagnose the problem.
My 7.3 powerstroke had a problem with the od light flashing it felt like it was shifting to the highest gear right on take off and it was kinda rough when shifting. It ended up being bad battery cables. She runs smooth now.
wow. bad battery cables, huh. Mine was having that problem. Dang maybe it won't cost much. Mine has 226k. I LOVE MY TRUCK. Oh, shoot I just remembered that I had the check engine light though. The lube place pulled a code and said it had to do with the transmission control module, but I also have battery/cable issues I think too.
Unplug your MAF sensor and drive it, the trans will be forced to rely on factory shift points instead of being calculated by the computer. If this fixes your shifting you either have a bad/dirty sensor or faulty wiring/connector.
@@draggg94 I'm not familiar with diesels, especially turbos (I'm in the market, that's why I'm watching vids), but the MAF is located on the air intake, usually as close to the throttle body as possible.
I'm not sure if you fixed this issue. When I bought my 7.3 I had a blinking issue on the overdrive. I went to diesel forums and with similar problems I changed my batteries. That fixed that problem. I don't think you have a transmission issue at all. Sounds like turbo lag. I use arch oil products for my additives , also put a t6 position chip in it , that will stop you having " gear shifting issues" .
The trans later then started slipping and it eventually blew out a few days later, I got it rebuilt then, and also had a billet torque converter put in.
My 6.0 turbo diesal rpm stood at 4000 and started to overheat. when I was hauling a medium size tractor and trailer. the rpm went back down hours later after I dropped off the trailer. please help
How the hell does it get so cold in Hill Country that you gotta cycle the glowplugs twice? I don't even have this problem with any of my diesels, and I'm 30 miles south of you in Bandera County.
There's no need to cycle the glow plugs twice once they completed their cycle they're ready to fire doing it twice isn't going to make it any more ready but you should wait for those little squiggly lines to go off on the dash light which are the indicator that they are ready to fire
The Powerstroke doesn't have the squiggly coil/spring light like Dodge's do. Instead there's a "Wait To Start" light on the ride side of the tachometer that goes out when it's ready.
@@j-deezy321 The entire second half of your comment is talking about squiggly lines that do not exist on the Ford Powerstroke. I know exactly what light you're talking about cause my uncle had a mid to late 90's Dodge Ram with the Cummins Turbo Diesel and it had the squiggly line to represent the glow plugs... I was just saying that the Ford Powerstroke doesn't have that, instead it's a 'Wait To Start' light that shuts off when plugs are ready.
I've never had it changed, but I don't know if the previous owner changed it or not when it hit 100k miles. I've only put 11K miles since I've owned it. I might have it changed when I do it's 150k mile oil change the next 2 days just for safe measures, but something tells me I might be too late.
The real test you got. hit the gas on a freeway strip. I mean hit it! this engine can take it! do it! 123k Miles! bought it used. watched tons of videos. your at low rpm this is normal! I have a 7.3. sounds like you do also. test the fluids. if their burnt, you got to worry. don't take it in unless you must.
I punched it once when I saw the overdrive blinking, and it almost red-lined and there was a big jerk in the shift timing, and I even pulled a small trailer when the transmission was slipping, and finally after it was unhooked, the transmission finally blew out, and I had to get it rebuilt.
It was, I'm currently the 3rd owner, the kid who owned it previously before me had put a tuner and a 6 inch lift and a cold air intake and 4" exhaust on it but other than that, he did nothing else to this truck.
My 97 f-250 had a shift problem like yours in the video, It turned out to be a speed sensor $30 later its doing fine. my sensor is located on top of the rear end, you my want to take a stab at changing yours out before doing anything expensive. I hope this helps.
Bro if it didnt start in 37 degrees u got a big ass problem, no need to double cycle either when it's that warm, it should not have pulsed like that either
I know, I do love the Duramax trucks for their Allison trans. But I do love how solid the 7.3 Powerstroke's are, even though Ford couldn't build a powerful enough automatic trans.
Yeah man no doubt, 7.3 is the best PS there is. I'll tell ya what ya need to do if you had the money/time... Find a good running 5.9 Cummins and drop it in that truck, then find a salvage Duramax with an Allison in it and throw it underneath.. You won't have any regrets!
@@dr.fishing5740 I dream of one day doing that later on in my life, either that or doing a 2011-2016 front end swap to a 7.3 truck. Personally, if I were to do a Cummins swap, I'd most likely want to do it to a gas truck (5.4 v8 or 6.8 v10), I personally wouldn't want to a Powerstroke truck if I think that engine isn't worth saving, I have deep respect for the 7.3 and even the 6.0 trucks (once they're bulletproofed of course), but if that engine is damaged way beyond repair, then I'd drop a Cummins into it.
@@dr.fishing5740 Especially the 3v engines, those are a big piece of work, the 2v engines aren't terrible for a gas engine, they just have occasional spark plug and timing chain issues, but more reason for a good Cummins swap foundation.
take to a dealer or someone that has the snap-on scanner with the proper program. clear all shifting sequences out and then tell it to relearn. drive it according to the process and it has to be at least warmed to 180 degrees. the computer remembers the drivers way of driving. when you take off from a stop, don't be afraid to step on it and get going, turbo lag is present , it's a diesel, drive it like one. Oh and 37 degrees is warm, we drive with windows open yet up here in western WI.
I had the same problem mine was the throttle position sensor the transmission didn't know what gear to shift into
I know its a 4 year old video but could help others looking for same problem. For sure its either the transmission range selector for the blinking OD light or the wires that run to it are sometimes too close to the exhaust manifold and they dry out and get brittle. This will create hard jerky shifts everytime and sometimes combined with a bit higher idle.
You got other problems if you have to sweat it by starting it at 37 degrees. My trucks start up at -37 degrees here in MN.
Go down to a ford dealer go to the parts desk and order a transmission shifter. And take the old one out the wire will be chafed. That will take care of 99 precent of the problems. I know that because I had the same problem with an 01 5.4l gas v8. Ford could not find anything wrong with it. But overdrive would come out then check engine mil or light will come on. It is a problem with the 4r 100 or 5r110 transmission
I think they make an additive to help it shift smoother
Your low Sensor is going out and it’s over revving the transmission with a not enough drag on it mine is going through the exact same thing and you might have to have your transmission rebuilt
My 97 f-250 had a shift problem like yours in the video, It turned out to be a speed sensor $30 later its doing fine. my sensor is located on top of the rear end, you my want to take a stab at changing yours out before doing anything expensive. I hope this helps.
Not too long after I uploaded this video, my dad pulled a trailer with this, and after the trailer was unhooked and he was driving home, the whole trans blew on him. $3,000 later, got it completely overhauled along with a billet torque converter upgrade.
100% flush and replace or remove the remote transmission filter under the a/c This problem just cost me $3000! Mine is the 2001 f250 super duty v10 with the R4100. 500 bucks for 17 quarts of fluid the 2 filters an new pan gasket. It was to late.. I found 2 x 1/4 inch filter fibers so off to the shop it went. Note 2001 148000 miles found it had already had a re-manufactured trans....Thanks Car Fax! this truck gets used but babied.
You probly have this fixed. My 2000 f350 was going the same thing. Now i have to replace the transmission. If you develop a vibration when driving get it in a shop asap. Or you will end up replacing both transfure case and transmission like i have to.
My truck wouldn't start very well in colder weather so I tried replacing the batteries, then all of the original glow plugs (even though they tested okay) and it was only a slight improvement, then about a year and a half later I had a no start and it threw a glow plug controller code. I replaced the controller and it starts in about 2 seconds in freezing weather.
you need to check your injectors. they should have a gap of at least 6 thou. if thats the issue. purchace injector shim kits from Ebay S70.. My problems completely resolved. OR buy new injectors. $$$$.
l have 5.4 engine on 2005 f250,
transmission issues only after drinking around 15 minutes, check engine light was on showing selenoy A , l install new selenoy but still same issues
Carlos Ayala ever figure it out
That cold start "romp" issue can be cleared up with 5w40 syn. motor oil. That being a 2001 4r100 look into a "mechanical diode" if you havent fixed it already. They are a fail point for the 2001 4r100. To fix that issue you will need to replace or rebuild the transmission.
Did you get it fixed and if so what was it??
My 02 f350 has a remanufactured transmission with 18k on it, on cold days l get a delay and a jerk going into reverse, only once then it's ok until the next day when it's cold ?
If that light comes on starts flashing that's an indicator that there is a problem in the transmission electrical it's a transmission indicator just as the engine light is an indicator for the engine emissions if that light on the shift lever starts coming on you need to take it in for Diagnostics otherwise you just getting my guess and his guess what guess you want first LOL
I have the same exact problem in my 1995 Nissan hardbody
Glow plugs stay lit even after wait to start light goes out. Give it at least 30-45 seconds. Your glow plugs are fine or it wouldn’t start at all at that temp no matter how many cycles you do. Normally you can hear the glow plug relay kick off when glow plugs are up to temp
I would hope that truck would start. Its 37 degrees out lol
Love when mine starts at 3 +17mph winds... Lol
I finally found my block heater... But plugging it in, the engine temp(?) reads hardly above base level
I own 2, 99 7.3 230,000 stock miles, 4x4 Dually, crew cab, lariat, 4x4, and a 06, 6.0 diesel, SRW crew cab king ranch 4x4, 50, 000 on second motor, 400,000 miles on truck. They are notorious for developing hard start/cold start issues. Especially my 99, which is my baby, and the built one I haul with. So even tho we live in eastern NC, it hits 40 degrees or forecasted to drop below 40, she gets plugged in period. The 6.0 gets the same treatment. While my husbands 98.5 Dodge Ram 2500, the beast that she is, won’t miss a beat in a blizzard. Love all 3 of our girls, and each is here for specific reasons where they perform the best at.
My 97 7.3 160k miles has hard time starting in Ga at 49degress. So 37 is awesome. And I'm going to check speed sensor my shfts hard too
@@johnproper2337 I never have issues with mine in Wisconsin. Use to start good at -15 without being plugged in but now if it’s gonna be below 0 I plug it in. Decided to be nice to the old girl lol
The overdrive is blinking because it has thrown a code. So something is wrong and when you get the code read it will tell you what that is. I would do that first and most likely it's what's causing the transmission to shift differently. Most likely it's a sensor that needs to be replaced. The actual transmission is probably fine.
Would a bad sensor cause it to slip between gears?
It sure could. Run up to your nearest auto parts store that does a free scan and find out what the code is.
I'll be taking it to a local shop to have it's 150k oil change and have them flush the transmission and put fresh new fluid and also diagnose the problem.
And come to think of it, this truck has been blowing a lot of fuses lately, maybe it's another fuse that needs to be replaced
My 7.3 powerstroke had a problem with the od light flashing it felt like it was shifting to the highest gear right on take off and it was kinda rough when shifting. It ended up being bad battery cables. She runs smooth now.
wow. bad battery cables, huh. Mine was having that problem. Dang maybe it won't cost much. Mine has 226k. I LOVE MY TRUCK. Oh, shoot I just remembered that I had the check engine light though. The lube place pulled a code and said it had to do with the transmission control module, but I also have battery/cable issues I think too.
Unplug your MAF sensor and drive it, the trans will be forced to rely on factory shift points instead of being calculated by the computer. If this fixes your shifting you either have a bad/dirty sensor or faulty wiring/connector.
Where is it located?
@@draggg94
I'm not familiar with diesels, especially turbos (I'm in the market, that's why I'm watching vids), but the MAF is located on the air intake, usually as close to the throttle body as possible.
Diesels don't have mass air flow sensors.. get educated before giving advice
@@gonefishing557 how about getting educated before disputing someone’s advice.
ua-cam.com/video/LKD4Cko11No/v-deo.html
@@gonefishing557 yes we do fam.
Only wait to start
Mine did same thing shifting from first to second. Turbo lag. Tighten d the intercooler boots and it went away.
Would it do it on a downshift as well?
I'm not sure if you fixed this issue. When I bought my 7.3 I had a blinking issue on the overdrive. I went to diesel forums and with similar problems I changed my batteries. That fixed that problem. I don't think you have a transmission issue at all. Sounds like turbo lag. I use arch oil products for my additives , also put a t6 position chip in it , that will stop you having " gear shifting issues" .
The trans later then started slipping and it eventually blew out a few days later, I got it rebuilt then, and also had a billet torque converter put in.
Your batteries? We're the old or weak?
My overdrive blinking was the wires were rotten green rotten like nothing lift of it
Which wires
Start the engine, put the overdrive in the off position ,leave in the off position, put the car on drive, and drive away. Work most of the times.
My 6.0 turbo diesal rpm stood at 4000 and started to overheat. when I was hauling a medium size tractor and trailer. the rpm went back down hours later after I dropped off the trailer. please help
Was it smoking like crazy?
I have 2000 f350 7.3 , got in my truck and the OD light was flashing … drove 65miles on highway transmission gave out …
Hey I have a problem with mines here's my number hit up pls my name is Steve 2059975498
How the hell does it get so cold in Hill Country that you gotta cycle the glowplugs twice? I don't even have this problem with any of my diesels, and I'm 30 miles south of you in Bandera County.
We lived on higher altitudes, and btw, I just wanted to avoid any cold start problems, it tends to lope quite a bit when it gets below 40
There's no need to cycle the glow plugs twice once they completed their cycle they're ready to fire doing it twice isn't going to make it any more ready but you should wait for those little squiggly lines to go off on the dash light which are the indicator that they are ready to fire
The Powerstroke doesn't have the squiggly coil/spring light like Dodge's do. Instead there's a "Wait To Start" light on the ride side of the tachometer that goes out when it's ready.
James B What does that have to do with my comment?
@@j-deezy321 The entire second half of your comment is talking about squiggly lines that do not exist on the Ford Powerstroke. I know exactly what light you're talking about cause my uncle had a mid to late 90's Dodge Ram with the Cummins Turbo Diesel and it had the squiggly line to represent the glow plugs... I was just saying that the Ford Powerstroke doesn't have that, instead it's a 'Wait To Start' light that shuts off when plugs are ready.
Has the transmission ever had a fluid and filter change?
I've never had it changed, but I don't know if the previous owner changed it or not when it hit 100k miles. I've only put 11K miles since I've owned it. I might have it changed when I do it's 150k mile oil change the next 2 days just for safe measures, but something tells me I might be too late.
Grayson Reichert try changing the fluid and filter. That might help but don't flush the transmission. It might cause even more problems
Grayson Reichert any maintenance tips for this engine?
No glow plugs
That truck took off in second. My truck shifts from 1st to second around 12 mph
Sounds like u have short shifts
37 degrees is not cold bud no need to cycle your plugs you should throw some arch oil in there to help those injectors
37° is super cold to you?? Hahahaha
Scott Baker thats cold for us Texas boys!
Ha ha it get more then -37 here my 7.3 starts to about 0 then I have to plug it in any colder then that but mine has 300k...
@@avery07 Glad i wasnt the only Mainer to laugh at this lmfao
Is it your truck
Hey I’m having same problem on my F350 7.3L 2001 truck too
The real test you got. hit the gas on a freeway strip. I mean hit it! this engine can take it! do it! 123k Miles! bought it used. watched tons of videos. your at low rpm this is normal! I have a 7.3. sounds like you do also. test the fluids. if their burnt, you got to worry. don't take it in unless you must.
I punched it once when I saw the overdrive blinking, and it almost red-lined and there was a big jerk in the shift timing, and I even pulled a small trailer when the transmission was slipping, and finally after it was unhooked, the transmission finally blew out, and I had to get it rebuilt.
Grayson Reichert did you ever figure out what was wrong with truck?got problem now smh
Was that truck bought new back in 2001?
It was, I'm currently the 3rd owner, the kid who owned it previously before me had put a tuner and a 6 inch lift and a cold air intake and 4" exhaust on it but other than that, he did nothing else to this truck.
Grayson Reichert How long have you had that truck for?
2 years
My 97 f-250 had a shift problem like yours in the video, It turned out to be a speed sensor $30 later its doing fine. my sensor is located on top of the rear end, you my want to take a stab at changing yours out before doing anything expensive. I hope this helps.
What did it end up being?????
Torque converter failed and destroyed the transmission.
Could be a speed sensor output.
gotta key my ford 2 times too but my chevy fires right up at -3 only one 10 sec warm up.
2002 2007 have glow plugs! 1999 2001 have wait to start
Uriel Hernandez all of em have glow plugs the wait to start is to let the glow plugs warm up 🤦♂️
Well u need glow plugs 4 sure
Transmission solenoid
It would taks to trade for a bow tie.
Bro if it didnt start in 37 degrees u got a big ass problem, no need to double cycle either when it's that warm, it should not have pulsed like that either
mine did that before too. the glow plug relay went out.after replacing it, it fired right up
Mines been like that for years .
Lmao wtf "cold start" "super cold"? 37 degrees?
37* IS NOT COLD
Haha I did it I had to look for 10 minutes but I found a video where you don’t sound like a prepubescent saabkyle
Should have gotten the Allison powered truck
I know, I do love the Duramax trucks for their Allison trans. But I do love how solid the 7.3 Powerstroke's are, even though Ford couldn't build a powerful enough automatic trans.
Yeah man no doubt, 7.3 is the best PS there is.
I'll tell ya what ya need to do if you had the money/time... Find a good running 5.9 Cummins and drop it in that truck, then find a salvage Duramax with an Allison in it and throw it underneath.. You won't have any regrets!
@@dr.fishing5740 I dream of one day doing that later on in my life, either that or doing a 2011-2016 front end swap to a 7.3 truck. Personally, if I were to do a Cummins swap, I'd most likely want to do it to a gas truck (5.4 v8 or 6.8 v10), I personally wouldn't want to a Powerstroke truck if I think that engine isn't worth saving, I have deep respect for the 7.3 and even the 6.0 trucks (once they're bulletproofed of course), but if that engine is damaged way beyond repair, then I'd drop a Cummins into it.
In that case, find you an F250 with a 5.4 in it.. Those are always "damaged beyond repair." Lol
@@dr.fishing5740 Especially the 3v engines, those are a big piece of work, the 2v engines aren't terrible for a gas engine, they just have occasional spark plug and timing chain issues, but more reason for a good Cummins swap foundation.