I have a 2003 F350 5.4L 2wd Every Time it rains the truck seems like it starves for gas, I use nothing but premium gas in it and cylinder 5 has given me a problem in the past with accumulating water but I have no intake leak so we put some silicone in the sparkplug well after changing the boot and it fixed it for a while but now its doing it again and no check engine light. I cant figure it out and only happens when it rains and a few days after that, then the truck runs like a dream until it rains again
I have a 2000 F-250 with the V-10, mine has the 5 speed manual transmission. My 2006 F-250 has the 6 speed manual transmission. My 2000 Excursion has V-10 and the 4 speed automatic transmission. None have blown a spark plug ( knock on wood ). I attribute this to my mechanic following the correct procedure for changing the plugs, extremely important. My 2000 has 250k miles on it.
My mechanic used to run the service dept. at a ford dealer. I have a 2000 Excursion V-10. 1. Go only to dealer to purchase new spark plugs every 80k miles, replace all 10 coil rubber boots and clean inside of throttle body. 2. If you have after market off-set rims, change out front hubs every 60k miles. 3. If you experience "theft light" issues and it won't start at turn of key, the diodes in the alternator may have failed, causing all kinds of problems with your PCM. It will continue to charge battery when running but will discharge when not running. Replace with remanufactured ford alternator. 4. If someone steals your cat-converter and damages the wires to your 02 sensors (before and after the cat-converter) it might cause the number 19 fuse (under the hood, 20 amp) to blow and render the engine limp-mode. I experienced all of this and the only real problem was the Alternator went out...big deal...took 45 mins to replace. The other stuff was caused by outside forces.
Got a 2000 400k Miles doesn’t miss a step and most times is pulling a 4500lb lawn care trailer or my 5000lb boat! Either way 11mpg loaded and 14.5mpg unloaded. Coils are super common on these too, along with everything you stated. But really even with all these things the cost of ownership is still cheaper than most Volkswagens !!!!!
I don’t own one yet, but I worked for a quarry company and fixed few times a v10 service body f350 they had. The car had 300k miles with bad maintenance and carrying a big diesel tank every day, never quit. To this day it keeps working
:41 I'm gonna stop you right there . . . The 6.8 Does NOT require premium fuel. If you reed the manual closely, it says if in your climate/altitude you experience knock, to use premium. I've put around 3500 gallons of 87 octane through these engines, and they run just fine.
I have a 99 F250 extended cab lariat with a V10 automatic with factory 4:30 gears. I have owned this truck for 17 years and it presently has 172,000 miles. In all this time, I had one spark plug blowout (#2) and I repaired it with a Time Sert Kit myself. I did not trust anyone with this procedure. It’s been seven years and still running great! She is 24 years old now and I have replaced the PCV-short U hose three times,fan belt once, two alternators, ten OEM injectors, ten OEM coil packs and ten OEM plugs. I keep her serviced every 2500 miles because that’s all I drive it in a years time. There are no oil leaks, no exhaust leaks at this time. She has been a good truck for a first year Superduty. I still pull my fifth wheel camper from time to time with no issues. This time next year I will be applying for an antique tag! LOL!
I have an 04 with 165k on it. I had 1 plug blow out. Did you have any trouble replacing the other plugs? I'm nervous about replacing them if they strip out the threads
Thanks for the video. I have a 2002 e350 6.8ltr van I work/ live out of. I've blown out 3 plugs on original engine. First time was a huge surprise. Very loud! I did research and bought the "time sert" retread insert kit. Did the repair with engine in van. Very difficult, lack of space. Extremely nerve racking. Drilling a big hole in the head is something that is not natural. Anyway, worked excellent. Had the pcv cracked hose up under throttle body as well. gave intermediate rough running. Would have never found it if someone hadn't suggested looking. Almost impossible to see on my vehicle. Engine made it to 300,000 miles then developed miked oil and gas somewhere other than in the cylinder....automatic transmission made 240,000. Just installed a rebuilt high performance engine and getting ready to fire it up. I love these engines, and love my van. Mileage is 10mpg no matter what I'm doing... yup that sucks. cheers
Bought a ‘99 from a buddy. F350, flatbed, new trans, new brakes, new coils, new Cooper tires… the list goes on and on. They got tired of putting money into it, so I picked it up for 1500. I’ve put a few hundred into it, but at 250k on the clock, this thing is a dream. HOWEVER, it makes a weird shrieking noise occasionally, hit a bump, noise starts, hit another bump, noise stops. What in thee heck!? I’m stumped.
Holy cow Love this video and thanks for making me feel better about buying my new used truck for 6,800$ with less then 130k and dropping 3,300$ back into to it in order to get the helio coil fixed because of the miss firing issue and needing to replace the coil packs on to cylinders with the tune up and well now have it chipped for better gas mileage and it seems to be working as far as getting better gas mileage for a work truck. Its a 1999 but I have been looking into the spark plug blowouts and that was one of my biggest concerns about getting to the truck but holy cow its a beast of a truck this is the biggest truck I have owned in my life and its like driving a whale in a kitty pool!
A couple things I noticed that you discussed in the video that aren't correct. I'm not trying to nitpick but just want the correct info to be out there as others are watching.
1. The generation that you are working with (the 2003 model) is the 1st generation or commonly known as the "2-valve" version which was offered from 1999 to 2004. ** (NOT up to 2007 as you said in the video) ** 2. This version did NOT have 360 horsepower as you mentioned at the beginning of the video. The 1st generation 2-valve versions of the Ford V10 for the Super Duty had 310 HP and 425 lb-ft. torque respectively. The 2nd generation (more commonly known as the "3-valve" versions) from 2005 to 2010 in the Super Duty trucks had 362 HP and 457 lb.-ft. of torque. These engines were offered in other vehicles with different power ratings as well such as Uhaul box trucks, RVs, buses, stripped chassis trucks, and other vehicles. In many cases, they had different intake and head designs and some parts are interchangeable between the different engines and some are not. But that's a different discussion. For the 1999 to 2004 versions for pickups, they had the option of the 4R100 or 4-speed automatic transmission or the 6-speed manual. From 2005 to 2010, they updated the automatic to a 5R110 or 5-speed and still offered the 6-speed manual as an option. They don't offer the 6R140 or 6-speed automatic transmission for the Super Duty pickups from 2011 and newer however, they do offer this with the chassis versions such as Uhauls, buses, RVs, and other models. To my knowledge, there is no conversion kit avialable to mate the 6-speed automatic to the 6.8 V10 for pickups. So, one would need to get this from a donor vehicle of one of the vehicles mentioned above. 3. You called the valve cover a "valve cap". I've never heard anyone refer to the valve covers as valve "caps" ever. I'm sure it was just a simple mistake and I'm not trying to get on you about it but it was just odd. -------- This channel's videos are great and this one is as well for the most part so please don't take my criticism the wrong way. I would suggest just doing a simple Google search in the future when discussing particular models and engines so you have the right info. If you need to, just use a 3x5 index card to have a few notes on and refer to that. This doesn't need to be so professional that you can't use a simple index card. ---------- For the Ford V-10 engines, although you did mention a few issues that they share with the other similar 4.6 and 5.4 V-8 models such as the spark plugs blowing out on earlier models and the exhaust manifolds bolts rusting out, you didn't mention one very important difference about these engines in relation to some of the newer 5.4 engines. The fact that both versions of the 6.8 V-10 DO NOT HAVE camshaft phasers or usually known as VVT (variable valve timing). This makes this engine so much more reliable with less moving parts internally to break down. That might be one of the main reasons that these engines have been so reliable and I think it's something that is worth pointing out. If you read the various forums and other sites online or in Facebook groups, you'll notice many owners getting at least 200k and 300k and more out of these engines before they have a major breakdown. Usually. So, they are pretty reliable for a lot of miles with little money invested. And, they are a lot cheaper to maintain than diesel engines with only needing 6 quarts of oil with a filter compared to at least 14 quarts or more with a diesel. One of the main downfalls (other than what you pointed out) is that they typically don't get the best fuel mileage. Usually. Most owners report getting between 12 mpg and 13 mpg unloaded (without towing a trailer) driving down the highway. Many have said they get between 7 mpg and 9 mpg when towing a trailer. But in fairness, it's all relative to how you drive. My guess is that "most" owners of these V10 pickups are spending more time on the gas than they need to because they like to have more "fun" in the seat of their pants due to the power. So, if they would just be "nicer" to the gas, most owners would probably get an extra mile or 2 better. Personally, I own a 2002 F-250 extended cab 4x4 with 8 foot bed and with the 6.8 V-10 and 4-speed automatic with 3.73 gears. It's got 308,000 miles and runs pretty well. I get between 14 and 16 mpg if I'm driving conservative at around 68 to 73 mph with little to no wind against me on the sides or front. If I want to do 75 to 80 mph, that obviously goes down to around 11.5 to 13 mpg. But wind is probably the biggest factor in how good or bad the fuel mileage will be. Even if it's from the side, it's still not good. I use an old Superchips Cortex 2950 tuner and have it set to the "fuel mileage XS" tune to try to get the best fuel economy and run the cheapest 10% ethanol (87 octane) whenever possible. Sometimes, I'll get an 88 octane that I think is a 12% to 15% blend (I might be wrong on that) from a local Casey's general convenience store that is a few cents cheaper. But usually, I just put the cheapest stuff in I can wherever I'm fueling up. I also tow with this setting without issues and have towed over 20,000 pounds (total with truck, trailer, cargo, fuel, me, tools, and etc.) and it pulled fine so I just leave it on the fuel mileage XS setting. I've tested it with different fuel and the tow setting and performance setting and overall, the fuel mileage didn't improve over the same conditions and terrain so I decided the added costs for fuel wasn't worth it.
My 99 F350 Owner's manual says to use Regular 87 octane fuel and I haven't had any problems using regular fuel. Not sure why Premium was said to be required.
Good job it's great to educate folks about problems that mechanics encounter on what folks think should be a simple job. Now maybe as they learn they will understand why their automotive bills cost what they cost. They can learn things that will save them money and it's a great feeling to fix something yourself!!
I think the nausea from the exhaust is caused by the huge repair bill. Wouldn't you think the maker could have used stainless steel bolts, especially considering the vehicle cost.
Right! But then you wouldn't be paying big repair bills and that's not good for business. Asian manufacturers typically use stainless or galvanized hardware because - well - they'd rather have a reputation of reliable cars and trucks. Ford engineering is the worst I've seen and I'm a long time mechanic.
Ford Exhaust ticking is very annoying its manageable if you got the tools and effort but the 03 Ford expedition Ford makes it very difficult. Auto shop book time for replacing exhaust manifold gasket on an 2003 Expedition is 4.9 hours longer than a 2000 expedition exhaust manifold gasket job. Raise the engine and lower the front differential to access the studs. Very difficult on me but I managed. Thanks Ford.
Great videos. Bought a New Holland service truck. 2003 F250 v10. 320K. Sold my 2014 ram for 30K. This truck I just bought is also "damage title" I found out after dealer sold it to me for $2700. It had perfect fluid and runs too good to be true. Looks like they did lots of service to it.
Thank you!! My issue has been simple and every mechanic has avoided even talking about it! Manifold bolts🙄 The rest the truck is damn near new with new transmission and entire front end. Been widling away at the engine trying to find the issue.. no codes for months yet loss of power and that dumb tick. .
If you own a Triton Two Valve engine buy the CalVan insert kit and proactively install all of them. Do it when you plan on changing plugs and oil since that is part of the job. Costs a few hundred but you don't want to blow out a spark plug out on the road.
I was watching at 2x speed guy is still very helpful but funny. I learned very fast. Thanks for putting video out you helped out a lot of people with the info.
Oh snap🤯 now I know why I'm losing power and a pop sound with truck just running in park. Spark plugs could be bad, I need to check right now. Need my truck for winter,, thanks a bunch for the tips on major issues with this Ford truck.
I have a 2001 F250 super duty, and I've noticed that when putting the engine under load there is a rattling noise. This only occurs when the engine is at 2000 or just under 2000 rpm or underload like climbing up a grade. Any idea as to what this could be? I'm having a mechanic look at my truck in the next few weeks, and I'm just wondering if I can start pinpointing the issue.
Make sure you use motor craft spark plugs. I manage a fleet, and 2 2013 f450 v10s I have had champion plugs in them from before I joined. These plugs deteriorated in under 30k miles and the ceramic insulator on the plug fell off and destroyed multiple cylinders.
It explains some of the complaints I have heard about these trucks. It would be kind if you could give and estimated cost to fix these different problems. I think I understand the complaint, now, of the aluminum shavings getting into the oil and destroying the engine. I have heard complaints of these spark plug repairs that only lead to that. Not pretty.
Actually an exhaust leak can cause an O2 sensor code/codes and really screw up the fuel trim. It can also burn up an exhaust valve, I wouldn't say you can drive it like that long term with no issue..
I’d say the blowout problem is still present on newer engines, just less common. I don’t own a 6.8, but I do have a 2009 Crown Victoria with the 4.6. It blew a plug a few weeks ago. Easy to fix, just pricy. Not a bad guide for people wanting to buy one of these trying to find what can fail on them. Tritons are solid motors with a few flaws like any decent engine.
I have a 99 F350 with the V10 Triton. Bought with blown engine, did an engine swap with a used one. It runs great with excellent compression and oil pressure but have an issue with fumes in the cabin. To me it seem more like gas fumes than exhaust. Have checked all vacuum lines for deterioration, no leaks that I can detect. Is not coming from the emissions cannister output and there are no gas leaks anywhere in the engine compartment or in the fuel lines to the tank. It is enough to get a bit of a headache when sitting still or moving slow - during normal driving, can't really smell them. Ran fine without any codes this summer for about 700 miles but then threw a DTC P1131. I cleared it but came back within 25 miles. IDS shows: HO2S11 not switching correctly. Sensor indicates lean. Air leaks at the exhaust manifold (I replaced all the broken studs and installed new exhaust gaskets on the replacement engine). Freeze frame shows SFT1 and SFT2 at -3.91% and LFT1 and LFT2 at 10.94% but not sure if that is normal. Not sure if the fumes and the DTC are related - any ideas? Not sure what to look for.
I ran a lot of different Triton motors never put premium gas they run on 87 just fine!!! I've operated 15+ 4.6l V8 2v 15+ 5.4l 2v and 10+ 5.4l 3v 10+ 6.8l V10 2v and 15+ 6.8l V10 3v Over 500,000 miles of driving with 87 octane I've tried 93 octane not worth spending $$$
I have 2002 ford excursion v10 and everytime I put 87 octane fuel it pings. Once I run 91 octane runs fine. Why the owners manuel say 87 octane requiered? Should I keep running 91 octane?
In this video, he mentioned they need premium fuel. Run fuel that gets rid of the ping. There are octane additives that may work for you. Do some research before putting them in your vehicle
Only issue I see with this video is this engine doesn’t require premium. We have a 2012 motorhome on the E-450 chassis with this engine, and it doesn’t require premium. Only regular.
Great info and question I have a V10 , 1999 , 115k miles .. Engine seems strong , when idling, as of lately when driving down road at any speed seems line it is missing and I hear noise like pressure blow by and truck seems there is a disconnect between engine and transmission any ideas to me I thinks it's a sensor not picking up the rpm acceleration or foot pedal gas increase and then timming is off ?? What do you think
Bet you haven't seen this one: 2001 F250 6.8; at 87K miles got #6 misfire, pulled coil and had 1" coolant on the boot. never water on top or even rain. Sucked it out with straw and shopvac, drove another 80K miles rinse and repeat. Otherwise best truck ever, no, best vehicle ever. Work truck, airlifts for heavy loads, then snow plowed 5 years, followed by 30' 5th wheel coast to coast 10 times. Now 175K and had to replace fuel pump, otherwise virtually no expenses but tires. Terrific truck. But coolant into #6??
drivers side exhaust manifold has 4 broken studs. i dread this removal. i get lots of codes for misfires. ive changed 3 coil packs and now im doing 3 more but im heading out to check that PCV hose right now ;) i have a 2000 and as far as i know there isnt any issues with blow out. when i do my plugs, i always start the truck for under a min when cold. i assume warming the block just slightly , helps. redone the entire front end and may need new steering gear. nothing cheep on this truck ty4urvid
Did any of the 6.8 v10s have the same 2 piece spark plugs like the 5.4 triton? If so what years have them and which ones do not? Thinking about purchasing one and would rather not get into the headache of having the 2 piece plugs snap off in the heads. It would be a huge help. Thanks!
Had an 03 xlt never missed a step 600 thousand plus. It took a front end collision to take it out. I have an 04 now king ranch same v10. 200+ O'Rileys said I needed new alternator my mechanic said alternator is fine. Cold weather came I need to jump it in the morning. Sometimes I have to hold key for 30 seconds before the starter engages. Anyone have anything they can share where I should go next. I bought new battery going in.
Thank for the info,I recently had a clutch replaced in mine new everything,it seems they didn't live the throughout bearing properly I scoped it and its dry shouldn't you grease all fork contact point so it will not vibrate and make noise while clutch pedal it out 2003 model
My 02 excursion V 10 has 400+ thousand miles on it it’s still a daily driver. Yes she has issues things need to be cleaned. Things need to be replaced.
Thank you so much buddy Mike Ford V10 has a 114,000 miles on it and it had a tune-up at 100,000 miles with spark plugs do I have anything to worry about you think
Hello. Great video. I have an 03 f250 with the 5.4 and 86,000 miles that runs great until it rains or gets washed 🤔. After that, it has a slight skip when idling and while driving, it doesn't accelerate well because of a skip or misfire. If you really step on the gas however, you eventually get pass the skip, but acceleration is still terrible. Again, this ONLY happens after a heavy rain or a car wash(hood closed and no engine cleaning is done during washes). After about a day, everything is fine again...
Somewhere in front water may not be draining as it should, and is being diverted to one of the sensors, that would be my guess. Or one of the seals around the engine bay that limits the amount of water that gets in has failed.
Check the passenger side rear 2 spark plugs wires to see if they are worn for whatever reason water runs across the heater core hoses and drops down onto the plug wires making a puddle my 97 4.6 did this I zip tied the hoses over a little problem solved good luck
As others have said check the coils and spark plug holes. Remove the coils and blow the holes out with air. Check to see if you have the rear hood weather seal. Also check the inside fuse box below the dash. Early superduty’s are notorious for the driver side windshield leaking onto the fuse box and gem module. It causes all kinds of electrical problems
I have a 2000 Rv with the v10 in it traveling at 40 miles per hour flat no issues. When I start to climb or pull my car losses power. Suggestions. Only have 55,000. Miles on the engine?
Thank you for this video I have always had Jeeps and now looking at a 2007 f250 6.8 v10 king ranch and didn’t even realize what gas it too I thought reg was fine but now I’ll have more questions for the seller
Just wondering if you have any information I have a 1999 250 with the V10 and trying to pull a camper just does not seem to have the power I thought it would have what would I need to check
Awesome video! I got an EX 6.8 and have a tap I could not figure out until this video. I changed the sparks fuel injector coils and nothing. Thanks for your help!
4:21pm eastern. So I am troubleshooting an f350sd 2003 flat bed which cranks but doesn’t start. I sprayed a bit of fuel into the air intake throat valves and it started right up, shutting off as soon as it used up what was sprayed. I pulled the hose off from the filter below the driver side frame and cranked the engine, no fuel. I also don’t hear any pump noises from the tank. Could it be the tank fuel pump?
+Brian Wilhite We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
My 02 v10 has 231,000 miles on it. Iv never had any problems with it until it hit 229,000 miles and it blew out a spark plug while towing a trailer . My mechanic fixed it and so far so good. I hope that it doesn't do it again. I love my v10 it has plenty of power for me and it's a beast in 4x4 low 💪
I have a 2003 Ford F-250 V10 Triton that always had that ticking noise… in the old days we called them tapets. In 2013 that noise became a huge loud clicking noise. I stopped driving it because I didn’t want to cause further damage to whatever was wrong. Now I’m dreading the cost of getting it fixed
Great info, I have the 2000 excursion v10 limited 4x4. I'm getting 8 mpg. Just replaced pcv hose, had shop do the plugs. Next in line is banks headers because exhaust manifold leaking. $2000 for the banks set up. I need to improve the 8mpg issue or I will let it sit and by a 45 mpg car. What can I do to get better gas mileage ? I dont put my foot in it, I take it easy and still no improvement. I wish they had a turbo to go with this v10. Mpg is what I need help with. I'd be happy with 12mpg.
Check to see if your hubs are in the locked position. I was getting 12mpg with the factory 4.30 gears and 35’s. Check your fuel filter, air filter and the S shaped hose that’s under the throttle body that connects to the pcv. They rupture and leak easily. Run some good injector cleaner through a couple tanks of gas. I did the banks headers and the free spin kit but also added 37’s and 4.88 gears. I’m getting 9-10 on the highway
If your 02 sensors are original, might consider changing those out as they control fueling. Cleaning the MAF sensor not a bad idea, either (they make a spray specifically for this, don't just use brakleen on it). You can get MAF sensor cleaner at walmart.
I have an 02 excursion 6.8 I pull a roll off dumpster set up with it works great but I do get exaust fuels inside. Still haven't figured it out. The only other issue us the driverside front break always grabs first even after replacing all brake components. I also have an 01 f250 that pulls a 16ft enclosed trailer for vending no issues at all with it. Both are below 130k miles.
I have a 2003 F250V10 6.8 gas engine My truck is having a hard time getting out of park into the other gears I'm assuming it's my innerlock solenoid can you please do a video on replacing a Interlock Solenoid super duty 2003 thank you so much you have great videos very informative.
I have ample experience with this problem. The gear selector (gear shift) mechanism on these trucks are GARBAGE! Typically the gear selector tube breaks because it's made of pot aluminum. I've had to replace mine at least 3 times. Also the lever at the end of this tube can work itself loose if the small bolt at the end can/will come loose and then you'll have shifting problems. Just another poor design by Ford engineers. I've done mine so many times that I can have my steering column removed and on the work bench in 30 min. or less. Sometimes I'd like to kick those engineers right in the balls for the problems I have with my F250. I've got 318,000 miles on mine but I've had a lot of problems. Best of luck to you with your shift problem.
Thanks for the video, great info! How much of it applies to a 2008 Triton V8? And do you have a similar video for that year? Mine is in a motor home and I keep getting a check engine light for the fuel rail pressure out of range.
Most of it. Except the 2008 have the spark plugs that can break when you're trying to do just a simple tuneup. Then you need a special tool to get the rest of it out. The replacement plugs won't break because . . . well they are just smarter than Ford engineers.
Most aluminum head V8s break exhaust manifold bolts. My smelly opinion is that with the aluminum head expanding more than the cast iron manifold the stress on the studs cause the breakage. Don't the rear studs tend to break first? The rear of the manifold is probably the hottest because all of the exhaust passes this point. Perhaps an aluminum exhaust manifold would fix this issue?
Doesn't require premium fuel Doesn't have 360 hp Isn't a 3v lol Mainly problems with spark plug ejection on the early non pi v10s They talked about the pvc valve but not wear it leaks at the bent elbow under the upper intake All issues In the very first minute of the video Was a mechanic for a fleet of 2v 6.8s keep your manifolds healthy and don't go below 2 quarts low on oil ever and you have a 350xxx mile motor
I have a 99 f53 with a 36’ holiday rambler on it, I realize it’s very heavy but it very gutless, it almost seems like its not getting full throttle. The person I got it from had Banks put long tube headers on and a transmission thing that plugs into the transmission, I also think it has tune plugged into it, any ideas? Thanks, Jerry
Would be cool if you did a video about the the intigrated relay panel for the fuel pump and related components. Cost me $1300 in St George Utah to have the Ford integrated relay bypassed so that I could get home. Now I'm having trouble with the other integrated components on the same panel. Would be a great video to see what's involved with just replacing the whole panel instead of waiting for each relay to fail.
My 33 ft Class A Motorhome with the Tritons V10 6.8 motor is struggling to climb hills after I replaced Pcv valve & hose, both O2 sensors & MAF sensor & TPS. Ran fine for 1 day & took hills good, now engine light on again and no power going up hills. Can u advice or help?
+@jamesbinger29 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I have a friend with a 2007 crew cab and it lost power while towing a camper over the hills and when you start it up you can definitely hear an irregular erratic firing that sounds like a valve issue on the passenger side. I need to remove the valve cover there and inspect the cam and rockers. At the tail pipe you can feel that there is an erratic pulse of exhaust. Do I need to jack up the cab to get to this? Is there something else that I could be having an issue with?
i have a 2000 f250 super duty with v10 and when night temps goes 32 degrees or below it is a little hard to start and if as it was a few days ago when temp went down low temps it wouldn't hit a lick, what would cause that?
+@charlesrussell7090 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Hi, great info. I have a question that you might be able to help me with... I have Limited Excursion V10, and when I'm moving right along the road and I hit 45-55MPH my engine and take my foot off the gas pedal the motor starts to sputter and the engine seems like its gonna cut out on me. When I give it gas and pass 50-60MPH the sputtering stops. I can't seem to figure out what the problem is??? Any suggestions?
Jack Rox • Could be a Tune up ? New plugs & wires ? If its fuel injected ' check clean or replace ? Ignition Coils ' check clean or replace ? Check the throttle body and sensors they might need cleaning or be replaced ? You've got some home work buddy ' start off by cleaning injectors with fuel line and injector cleaner in fuel tank ? Check all wires and hoses in engine compartment. Another thing could be the fuel pump giving out or dirty ? Good luck ' like i mentioned start off with cheapest route first, it's all process of elimination 👍
My truck did the same thing, when I was on a trip, I scanned the codes and found out that I had a miss fire on #4, so I bought plugs and coils and changed out just #4 plug and coil and running fine, I thought my transmission was going out! And my truck never threw a code! I hope this helps.
I have this same motor and I’m having a ticking noise from 2500 rpm to 3000 rpm nothing before or after that and not feeling any power loss while it’s doing the tick any ideas ?
+Cameron Howell We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Coil, spark plug, exhaust manifold leaks, Lifter, Rocker, Valve Spring! Check them in that order as that easiest, and cheapest! Make sure coils are seated and sealed, wire connectors are secure! Use a stethoscope to isolate the problem area! If you suspect a bad coil, swap it with one from another cylinder! If the issue starts at the other cylinder, it's the coil! Lifters, Rocker are easy and the valve cover is simple to remove! Just take your time putting it back on! Make sure the gasket seats properly or you'll be starting over! Don't replace any springs unless during inspection you find one is broken! If it's any of the "Lash Adjusters/Lifters" it's because something got inside it and is stopping it from completing a full compression cycle! Many good YT videos on lash adjuster replacement! Don't forget to preload them before installing! Good luck!
The V10 also had dipstick tube problems ,,, if it breaks off by the oil pan and you cant remove the piece left in the oil pan I belive you have to remove the engine to fix the problem .
Ahhh I have a 2002 Triton V10 Excursion… dam I should have gone desire… Well I’ve had to have 3 of the plugs replaced as they blew while on the road. Sounds like you dropped a muffler…. What was not said, is the shop that does the work needs special tools to prepare for and insert the Helicoils. The drilling rig has a vacuum attachment to suck up as much of the shavings while drilling and you need a bore scope / camera to look down into the cylinder area and inspect to make sure you got the all. Then repeat after threading for Helicoil and after inserting Helicoil… I basically bought the tool for the shop the first time they did this for me and lucky me it was one of the ones near the firewall…. I think it ran about $800 with the next two costing about $300 as they were further out…. I’m afraid to service the remaining 7 plugs as I fear exactly what you said here, plugs and threads will come out. I am extremely disappointed with Ford that they did not fess up and do a recall of their own on such a bad engineering issue. Left me stranded twice and my wife and sone once…. Now it gets 8 miles to the gallon and sits on the street gathering dust/dirt…. Oh yea…. You forgot another BIG issue…. DEATH WOBBLE! I have that issue nw as well and that’s why it sits parked not being used…. My wife is constantly after me to get rid of it….
Another way is to pull the fuel pump relay so the engine won't start then crank the engine several times to clear out the aluminum shavings. I've had 100% success doing this with other people's vehicle. My V10 finally did the same thing while I was on the road. Stopped at a NAPA and they had the kit so I did it right there in their parking lot. Pulled my f.pump relay, cranked it, put the plug back in and continued on my hunting trip. But the vacuum tool sounds really trick! Thanks for the info.
2003 6.8L F350. Pings with 93 octane. Idle is Very smooth. No engine light. It will ping at cold or at operating temperature. Hauling a load or empty. Should I start with replacing the PCV valve and hose then work up to the Mass air flow sensor? It does seem to have power, but I have to ease the throttle when accelerating. 1/3 throttle at most.
Hello congratulations you for the channel I have an excursion 6.8 V10 I feel very well despite some problems .. when I accelerate I feel vibrations with a whistle .. do you think it could be the PCV valve? Or could it be some problem with the transmission? Thank you very much for your help Marcelo from Italy do you speak Spanish maybe?
My 99 v 10 sputters and hesitate not sure if it's fuel spark or sticking valves it doesn't do it all the time mainly when it's warm and ecelerating hard not sure what to do about it no codes and no engine light
General question about the v 10. My 350 will suddenly die while driving when it’s hot out. It’s fuel injected but I can’t help but wonder if it is vaporlocking? Can a fuel injected engine have this problem?
I have a 2003 f250 super duty 6.8l v10 that stalls occasionally but starts right up again after turning the switch off for 30 seconds or so. I've replaced multiple sensors, the fuel filter and relay, and cleaned all connections but the issue remains. If you have any ideas for resolving this issue of stalling I would greatly appreciate your feed back. I can drive the truck 4-5 days without a single stall, then out of the blue she stalls. Most offen it stalls under power but has done so at idle 3 times. Can you help?
Got a 2000 F250 super duty just randomly started overheating about 1 & 1/2 hrs into a 2 hour trip. Coolant looks a dirty brown... It started losing power so we had it towed before the damage got any worse.
I have a 2000 excursion with the v10 and I can tell you the pop of a plug coming out while running down the road at 55 mph is not a little pop it sounds like a tire blow out
Hi buddy I got the same truck but 2000… It really is a very reliable, resistant and durable vehicle. I have traveled all over the country with it, I have pulled heavy trailers and it has never let me down, the spark plug thing is true, it has done it 2 times after 10 years with it... but I have now a P1633 what should I do? thank you
Okay I got 2000 f250 super the headlights are flickering new alternator and a new battery I change the ground strap in back of the engine still flickering what could be the problem
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
I have a 2003 F350 5.4L 2wd Every Time it rains the truck seems like it starves for gas, I use nothing but premium gas in it and cylinder 5 has given me a problem in the past with accumulating water but I have no intake leak so we put some silicone in the sparkplug well after changing the boot and it fixed it for a while but now its doing it again and no check engine light. I cant figure it out and only happens when it rains and a few days after that, then the truck runs like a dream until it rains again
I have a 2000 F-250 with the V-10, mine has the 5 speed manual transmission. My 2006 F-250 has the 6 speed manual transmission. My 2000 Excursion has V-10 and the 4 speed automatic transmission. None have blown a spark plug ( knock on wood ). I attribute this to my mechanic following the correct procedure for changing the plugs, extremely important. My 2000 has 250k miles on it.
My mechanic used to run the service dept. at a ford dealer. I have a 2000 Excursion V-10.
1. Go only to dealer to purchase new spark plugs every 80k miles, replace all 10 coil rubber boots and clean inside of throttle body.
2. If you have after market off-set rims, change out front hubs every 60k miles.
3. If you experience "theft light" issues and it won't start at turn of key, the diodes in the alternator may have failed, causing all kinds of problems with your PCM. It will continue to charge battery when running but will discharge when not running. Replace with remanufactured ford alternator.
4. If someone steals your cat-converter and damages the wires to your 02 sensors (before and after the cat-converter) it might cause the number 19 fuse (under the hood, 20 amp) to blow and render the engine limp-mode.
I experienced all of this and the only real problem was the Alternator went out...big deal...took 45 mins to replace. The other stuff was caused by outside forces.
Got a 2000 400k Miles doesn’t miss a step and most times is pulling a 4500lb lawn care trailer or my 5000lb boat! Either way 11mpg loaded and 14.5mpg unloaded. Coils are super common on these too, along with everything you stated. But really even with all these things the cost of ownership is still cheaper than most Volkswagens !!!!!
I don’t own one yet, but I worked for a quarry company and fixed few times a v10 service body f350 they had. The car had 300k miles with bad maintenance and carrying a big diesel tank every day, never quit. To this day it keeps working
Theirs now way you get 14 mpg. I’ve owned several. They didn’t do 14 new.
:41 I'm gonna stop you right there . . . The 6.8 Does NOT require premium fuel. If you reed the manual closely, it says if in your climate/altitude you experience knock, to use premium. I've put around 3500 gallons of 87 octane through these engines, and they run just fine.
I have a 99 F250 extended cab lariat with a V10 automatic with factory 4:30 gears. I have owned this truck for 17 years and it presently has 172,000 miles. In all this time, I had one spark plug blowout (#2) and I repaired it with a Time Sert Kit myself. I did not trust anyone with this procedure. It’s been seven years and still running great! She is 24 years old now and I have replaced the PCV-short U hose three times,fan belt once, two alternators, ten OEM injectors, ten OEM coil packs and ten OEM plugs. I keep her serviced every 2500 miles because that’s all I drive it in a years time. There are no oil leaks, no exhaust leaks at this time. She has been a good truck for a first year Superduty. I still pull my fifth wheel camper from time to time with no issues. This time next year I will be applying for an antique tag! LOL!
I have an 04 with 165k on it. I had 1 plug blow out. Did you have any trouble replacing the other plugs? I'm nervous about replacing them if they strip out the threads
Good video. I believe the 6.8L V10 is recommended for 87 octane fuel or higher. 93 octane isn't required. Coils are another common issue also.
yup... 87.. no way 93
Owners manual says 87 octane.
Thanks for the video. I have a 2002 e350 6.8ltr van I work/ live out of. I've blown out 3 plugs on original engine. First time was a huge surprise. Very loud! I did research and bought the "time sert" retread insert kit. Did the repair with engine in van. Very difficult, lack of space. Extremely nerve racking. Drilling a big hole in the head is something that is not natural. Anyway, worked excellent. Had the pcv cracked hose up under throttle body as well. gave intermediate rough running. Would have never found it if someone hadn't suggested looking. Almost impossible to see on my vehicle. Engine made it to 300,000 miles then developed miked oil and gas somewhere other than in the cylinder....automatic transmission made 240,000. Just installed a rebuilt high performance engine and getting ready to fire it up. I love these engines, and love my van. Mileage is 10mpg no matter what I'm doing... yup that sucks. cheers
Bought a ‘99 from a buddy. F350, flatbed, new trans, new brakes, new coils, new Cooper tires… the list goes on and on. They got tired of putting money into it, so I picked it up for 1500. I’ve put a few hundred into it, but at 250k on the clock, this thing is a dream. HOWEVER, it makes a weird shrieking noise occasionally, hit a bump, noise starts, hit another bump, noise stops. What in thee heck!? I’m stumped.
Holy cow Love this video and thanks for making me feel better about buying my new used truck for 6,800$ with less then 130k and dropping 3,300$ back into to it in order to get the helio coil fixed because of the miss firing issue and needing to replace the coil packs on to cylinders with the tune up and well now have it chipped for better gas mileage and it seems to be working as far as getting better gas mileage for a work truck. Its a 1999 but I have been looking into the spark plug blowouts and that was one of my biggest concerns about getting to the truck but holy cow its a beast of a truck this is the biggest truck I have owned in my life and its like driving a whale in a kitty pool!
A couple things I noticed that you discussed in the video that aren't correct. I'm not trying to nitpick but just want the correct info to be out there as others are watching.
1. The generation that you are working with (the 2003 model) is the 1st generation or commonly known as the "2-valve" version which was offered from 1999 to 2004.
** (NOT up to 2007 as you said in the video) **
2. This version did NOT have 360 horsepower as you mentioned at the beginning of the video. The 1st generation 2-valve versions of the Ford V10 for the Super Duty had 310 HP and 425 lb-ft. torque respectively.
The 2nd generation (more commonly known as the "3-valve" versions) from 2005 to 2010 in the Super Duty trucks had 362 HP and 457 lb.-ft. of torque.
These engines were offered in other vehicles with different power ratings as well such as Uhaul box trucks, RVs, buses, stripped chassis trucks, and other vehicles. In many cases, they had different intake and head designs and some parts are interchangeable between the different engines and some are not. But that's a different discussion.
For the 1999 to 2004 versions for pickups, they had the option of the 4R100 or 4-speed automatic transmission or the 6-speed manual. From 2005 to 2010, they updated the automatic to a 5R110 or 5-speed and still offered the 6-speed manual as an option.
They don't offer the 6R140 or 6-speed automatic transmission for the Super Duty pickups from 2011 and newer however, they do offer this with the chassis versions such as Uhauls, buses, RVs, and other models. To my knowledge, there is no conversion kit avialable to mate the 6-speed automatic to the 6.8 V10 for pickups. So, one would need to get this from a donor vehicle of one of the vehicles mentioned above.
3. You called the valve cover a "valve cap". I've never heard anyone refer to the valve covers as valve "caps" ever. I'm sure it was just a simple mistake and I'm not trying to get on you about it but it was just odd.
--------
This channel's videos are great and this one is as well for the most part so please don't take my criticism the wrong way.
I would suggest just doing a simple Google search in the future when discussing particular models and engines so you have the right info. If you need to, just use a 3x5 index card to have a few notes on and refer to that. This doesn't need to be so professional that you can't use a simple index card.
----------
For the Ford V-10 engines, although you did mention a few issues that they share with the other similar 4.6 and 5.4 V-8 models such as the spark plugs blowing out on earlier models and the exhaust manifolds bolts rusting out, you didn't mention one very important difference about these engines in relation to some of the newer 5.4 engines.
The fact that both versions of the 6.8 V-10 DO NOT HAVE camshaft phasers or usually known as VVT (variable valve timing). This makes this engine so much more reliable with less moving parts internally to break down.
That might be one of the main reasons that these engines have been so reliable and I think it's something that is worth pointing out.
If you read the various forums and other sites online or in Facebook groups, you'll notice many owners getting at least 200k and 300k and more out of these engines before they have a major breakdown.
Usually.
So, they are pretty reliable for a lot of miles with little money invested. And, they are a lot cheaper to maintain than diesel engines with only needing 6 quarts of oil with a filter compared to at least 14 quarts or more with a diesel.
One of the main downfalls (other than what you pointed out) is that they typically don't get the best fuel mileage. Usually.
Most owners report getting between 12 mpg and 13 mpg unloaded (without towing a trailer) driving down the highway. Many have said they get between 7 mpg and 9 mpg when towing a trailer.
But in fairness, it's all relative to how you drive. My guess is that "most" owners of these V10 pickups are spending more time on the gas than they need to because they like to have more "fun" in the seat of their pants due to the power. So, if they would just be "nicer" to the gas, most owners would probably get an extra mile or 2 better.
Personally, I own a 2002 F-250 extended cab 4x4 with 8 foot bed and with the 6.8 V-10 and 4-speed automatic with 3.73 gears. It's got 308,000 miles and runs pretty well. I get between 14 and 16 mpg if I'm driving conservative at around 68 to 73 mph with little to no wind against me on the sides or front. If I want to do 75 to 80 mph, that obviously goes down to around 11.5 to 13 mpg.
But wind is probably the biggest factor in how good or bad the fuel mileage will be. Even if it's from the side, it's still not good.
I use an old Superchips Cortex 2950 tuner and have it set to the "fuel mileage XS" tune to try to get the best fuel economy and run the cheapest 10% ethanol (87 octane) whenever possible. Sometimes, I'll get an 88 octane that I think is a 12% to 15% blend (I might be wrong on that) from a local Casey's general convenience store that is a few cents cheaper.
But usually, I just put the cheapest stuff in I can wherever I'm fueling up.
I also tow with this setting without issues and have towed over 20,000 pounds (total with truck, trailer, cargo, fuel, me, tools, and etc.) and it pulled fine so I just leave it on the fuel mileage XS setting. I've tested it with different fuel and the tow setting and performance setting and overall, the fuel mileage didn't improve over the same conditions and terrain so I decided the added costs for fuel wasn't worth it.
My 99 F350 Owner's manual says to use Regular 87 octane fuel and I haven't had any problems using regular fuel. Not sure why Premium was said to be required.
Good job it's great to educate folks about problems that mechanics encounter on what folks think should be a simple job. Now maybe as they learn they will understand why their automotive bills cost what they cost. They can learn things that will save them money and it's a great feeling to fix something yourself!!
I think the nausea from the exhaust is caused by the huge repair bill. Wouldn't you think the maker could have used stainless steel bolts, especially considering the vehicle cost.
Right! But then you wouldn't be paying big repair bills and that's not good for business. Asian manufacturers typically use stainless or galvanized hardware because - well - they'd rather have a reputation of reliable cars and trucks. Ford engineering is the worst I've seen and I'm a long time mechanic.
@@nunnyabiznessIf fords engineering is the worst you’ve seen in your career then you haven’t worked on a very large variety of vehicles
And copper nuts
Ford Exhaust ticking is very annoying its manageable if you got the tools and effort but the 03 Ford expedition Ford makes it very difficult. Auto shop book time for replacing exhaust manifold gasket on an 2003 Expedition is 4.9 hours longer than a 2000 expedition exhaust manifold gasket job. Raise the engine and lower the front differential to access the studs. Very difficult on me but I managed. Thanks Ford.
Ford isn’t that smart. Or should I say their accountants aren’t that smart!
A mechanic telling you the 6.8 requires premium fuel isn't much of a mechanic.
I’ve owned several v 10 never had a plug problem. Only problem is 7 mpg pulling 10 empty.
Great videos. Bought a New Holland service truck. 2003 F250 v10. 320K. Sold my 2014 ram for 30K. This truck I just bought is also "damage title" I found out after dealer sold it to me for $2700. It had perfect fluid and runs too good to be true. Looks like they did lots of service to it.
Thank you!! My issue has been simple and every mechanic has avoided even talking about it! Manifold bolts🙄
The rest the truck is damn near new with new transmission and entire front end. Been widling away at the engine trying to find the issue.. no codes for months yet loss of power and that dumb tick. .
If you own a Triton Two Valve engine buy the CalVan insert kit and proactively install all of them. Do it when you plan on changing plugs and oil since that is part of the job. Costs a few hundred but you don't want to blow out a spark plug out on the road.
I said to myself, Triton? If the first thing they talk about isn't spark plugs flying out of the heads like fireworks ...
U did good, guys 😎
I have 380k on my 2005 v10 excursion it’s been great. I’ve had to have the studs fixed 7 times tho but I’m a pro at it now
Hey I’m getting one with around 200,000miles, an 05, are you referring to the exhaust manifold studs, they go bad that fast?
I have a 99 F450 with V10, it has 186,000 miles on it. I love it Check it out ua-cam.com/video/oL-mEH1VZGE/v-deo.html
yeah we need to hear more about that....was it a recall on these engines?
@@saltpepper1894 I believe extended warranties for the original owners. Big, known issue.
I have 330k km's on mine & had my bolts replaced. $$$ in labour.
I was watching at 2x speed guy is still very helpful but funny. I learned very fast. Thanks for putting video out you helped out a lot of people with the info.
Awesome video, the first two problems are ones I've already encountered and dealt with on my 2000, definitely a great truck.
Oh snap🤯 now I know why I'm losing power and a pop sound with truck just running in park. Spark plugs could be bad, I need to check right now. Need my truck for winter,, thanks a bunch for the tips on major issues with this Ford truck.
I have a 2001 F250 super duty, and I've noticed that when putting the engine under load there is a rattling noise. This only occurs when the engine is at 2000 or just under 2000 rpm or underload like climbing up a grade. Any idea as to what this could be? I'm having a mechanic look at my truck in the next few weeks, and I'm just wondering if I can start pinpointing the issue.
Make sure you use motor craft spark plugs. I manage a fleet, and 2 2013 f450 v10s I have had champion plugs in them from before I joined. These plugs deteriorated in under 30k miles and the ceramic insulator on the plug fell off and destroyed multiple cylinders.
Wait. Did you just imply it was ok to tap and heli-coil a sparkplug hole without taking the head off, leaving shavings inside the engine?
It explains some of the complaints I have heard about these trucks. It would be kind if you could give and estimated cost to fix these different problems. I think I understand the complaint, now, of the aluminum shavings getting into the oil and destroying the engine. I have heard complaints of these spark plug repairs that only lead to that. Not pretty.
Actually an exhaust leak can cause an O2 sensor code/codes and really screw up the fuel trim. It can also burn up an exhaust valve, I wouldn't say you can drive it like that long term with no issue..
Great and well explained work!
I’d say the blowout problem is still present on newer engines, just less common. I don’t own a 6.8, but I do have a 2009 Crown Victoria with the 4.6. It blew a plug a few weeks ago. Easy to fix, just pricy. Not a bad guide for people wanting to buy one of these trying to find what can fail on them. Tritons are solid motors with a few flaws like any decent engine.
I have a 99 F350 with the V10 Triton. Bought with blown engine, did an engine swap with a used one. It runs great with excellent compression and oil pressure but have an issue with fumes in the cabin. To me it seem more like gas fumes than exhaust. Have checked all vacuum lines for deterioration, no leaks that I can detect. Is not coming from the emissions cannister output and there are no gas leaks anywhere in the engine compartment or in the fuel lines to the tank. It is enough to get a bit of a headache when sitting still or moving slow - during normal driving, can't really smell them. Ran fine without any codes this summer for about 700 miles but then threw a DTC P1131. I cleared it but came back within 25 miles. IDS shows: HO2S11 not switching correctly. Sensor indicates lean. Air leaks at the exhaust manifold (I replaced all the broken studs and installed new exhaust gaskets on the replacement engine). Freeze frame shows SFT1 and SFT2 at -3.91% and LFT1 and LFT2 at 10.94% but not sure if that is normal. Not sure if the fumes and the DTC are related - any ideas? Not sure what to look for.
I have a ticking sound most noticeable when cold in my 03 Ford Explorer 4.0 and now I’m thinking it’s the exhaust somewhere near the headers
great vid, perfect
I ran a lot of different Triton motors never put premium gas they run on 87 just fine!!! I've operated 15+ 4.6l V8 2v
15+ 5.4l 2v and 10+ 5.4l 3v
10+ 6.8l V10 2v and 15+ 6.8l V10 3v
Over 500,000 miles of driving with 87 octane I've tried 93 octane not worth spending $$$
I have 2002 ford excursion v10 and everytime I put 87 octane fuel it pings. Once I run 91 octane runs fine. Why the owners manuel say 87 octane requiered? Should I keep running 91 octane?
In this video, he mentioned they need premium fuel. Run fuel that gets rid of the ping. There are octane additives that may work for you. Do some research before putting them in your vehicle
Seafoam it
Do not run octane boosters in these V10s, it can destroy the catalytic converter, even if it says it won’t. Always use premium fuel with Seafoam.
Run fuel system cleaner in it
Only issue I see with this video is this engine doesn’t require premium. We have a 2012 motorhome on the E-450 chassis with this engine, and it doesn’t require premium. Only regular.
Great info and question I have a V10 , 1999 , 115k miles .. Engine seems strong , when idling, as of lately when driving down road at any speed seems line it is missing and I hear noise like pressure blow by and truck seems there is a disconnect between engine and transmission any ideas to me I thinks it's a sensor not picking up the rpm acceleration or foot pedal gas increase and then timming is off ?? What do you think
What did it turn out to be?
Would be great to know what it was. I have 460,000 on my 99 and it is doing the same thing.
Thanks for the information
Harmonic balancer on these tritions like to dry rot and separate. They will start to squeak when they go bad.
Bet you haven't seen this one: 2001 F250 6.8; at 87K miles got #6 misfire, pulled coil and had 1" coolant on the boot. never water on top or even rain. Sucked it out with straw and shopvac, drove another 80K miles rinse and repeat. Otherwise best truck ever, no, best vehicle ever. Work truck, airlifts for heavy loads, then snow plowed 5 years, followed by 30' 5th wheel coast to coast 10 times. Now 175K and had to replace fuel pump, otherwise virtually no expenses but tires. Terrific truck. But coolant into #6??
drivers side exhaust manifold has 4 broken studs. i dread this removal.
i get lots of codes for misfires. ive changed 3 coil packs and now im doing 3 more but im heading out to check that PCV hose right now ;)
i have a 2000 and as far as i know there isnt any issues with blow out. when i do my plugs, i always start the truck for under a min when cold. i assume warming the block just slightly , helps.
redone the entire front end and may need new steering gear.
nothing cheep on this truck
ty4urvid
ps. im going to try the mig welder to pull broken studs
i drive in the bush lots and go through mirrors more then i change the oil... lol
Did any of the 6.8 v10s have the same 2 piece spark plugs like the 5.4 triton? If so what years have them and which ones do not? Thinking about purchasing one and would rather not get into the headache of having the 2 piece plugs snap off in the heads. It would be a huge help. Thanks!
I am looking to buy a 2000 f250 v10, this video is helpful.
Had an 03 xlt never missed a step 600 thousand plus. It took a front end collision to take it out. I have an 04 now king ranch same v10. 200+ O'Rileys said I needed new alternator my mechanic said alternator is fine. Cold weather came I need to jump it in the morning. Sometimes I have to hold key for 30 seconds before the starter engages. Anyone have anything they can share where I should go next. I bought new battery going in.
Thank for the info,I recently had a clutch replaced in mine new everything,it seems they didn't live the throughout bearing properly I scoped it and its dry shouldn't you grease all fork contact point so it will not vibrate and make noise while clutch pedal it out 2003 model
My 02 excursion V 10 has 400+ thousand miles on it it’s still a daily driver. Yes she has issues things need to be cleaned. Things need to be replaced.
Thank you so much buddy Mike Ford V10 has a 114,000 miles on it and it had a tune-up at 100,000 miles with spark plugs do I have anything to worry about you think
If you have a blown plug get the calvan kit it has the drill, and tap and insert also had a guide to keep it straight.
+Brandon Curtice Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the great informative videos. Hope you guys do one on a 1996 F150. Thanks
Hello. Great video. I have an 03 f250 with the 5.4 and 86,000 miles that runs great until it rains or gets washed 🤔. After that, it has a slight skip when idling and while driving, it doesn't accelerate well because of a skip or misfire. If you really step on the gas however, you eventually get pass the skip, but acceleration is still terrible. Again, this ONLY happens after a heavy rain or a car wash(hood closed and no engine cleaning is done during washes). After about a day, everything is fine again...
Somewhere in front water may not be draining as it should, and is being diverted to one of the sensors, that would be my guess. Or one of the seals around the engine bay that limits the amount of water that gets in has failed.
Check the passenger side rear 2 spark plugs wires to see if they are worn for whatever reason water runs across the heater core hoses and drops down onto the plug wires making a puddle my 97 4.6 did this I zip tied the hoses over a little problem solved good luck
Coil not sealed! Water getting in! Dielectric grease and make sure the COP coil is seated and sealed!
As others have said check the coils and spark plug holes. Remove the coils and blow the holes out with air. Check to see if you have the rear hood weather seal.
Also check the inside fuse box below the dash. Early superduty’s are notorious for the driver side windshield leaking onto the fuse box and gem module. It causes all kinds of electrical problems
I have a 2000 Rv with the v10 in it traveling at 40 miles per hour flat no issues. When I start to climb or pull my car losses power. Suggestions. Only have 55,000. Miles on the engine?
Thank you for this video I have always had Jeeps and now looking at a 2007 f250 6.8 v10 king ranch and didn’t even realize what gas it too I thought reg was fine but now I’ll have more questions for the seller
I hope you do a video about how to diagnose problems with this motor with an obd2 scanner
+Robert Walker We're always cycling through common cars. We'll add this repair to our list! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Just wondering if you have any information I have a 1999 250 with the V10 and trying to pull a camper just does not seem to have the power I thought it would have what would I need to check
Awesome video! I got an EX 6.8 and have a tap I could not figure out until this video. I changed the sparks fuel injector coils and nothing. Thanks for your help!
I've seen the plug go right through the head.
You should mention how this applies to the 5.4 and 4.6 2v.
As well as the breaking plug issues.
4:21pm eastern. So I am troubleshooting an f350sd 2003 flat bed which cranks but doesn’t start. I sprayed a bit of fuel into the air intake throat valves and it started right up, shutting off as soon as it used up what was sprayed. I pulled the hose off from the filter below the driver side frame and cranked the engine, no fuel. I also don’t hear any pump noises from the tank. Could it be the tank fuel pump?
+Brian Wilhite We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
How is the transmission on the 2002 of that model and is the 2002 included in the spark plug problems? Helpful video thank you.
My 02 v10 has 231,000 miles on it. Iv never had any problems with it until it hit 229,000 miles and it blew out a spark plug while towing a trailer . My mechanic fixed it and so far so good. I hope that it doesn't do it again. I love my v10 it has plenty of power for me and it's a beast in 4x4 low 💪
I have a 2003 Ford F-250 V10 Triton that always had that ticking noise… in the old days we called them tapets. In 2013 that noise became a huge loud clicking noise. I stopped driving it because I didn’t want to cause further damage to whatever was wrong. Now I’m dreading the cost of getting it fixed
Great info, I have the 2000 excursion v10 limited 4x4. I'm getting 8 mpg. Just replaced pcv hose, had shop do the plugs. Next in line is banks headers because exhaust manifold leaking. $2000 for the banks set up. I need to improve the 8mpg issue or I will let it sit and by a 45 mpg car. What can I do to get better gas mileage ? I dont put my foot in it, I take it easy and still no improvement. I wish they had a turbo to go with this v10. Mpg is what I need help with. I'd be happy with 12mpg.
Check to see if your hubs are in the locked position. I was getting 12mpg with the factory 4.30 gears and 35’s. Check your fuel filter, air filter and the S shaped hose that’s under the throttle body that connects to the pcv. They rupture and leak easily. Run some good injector cleaner through a couple tanks of gas.
I did the banks headers and the free spin kit but also added 37’s and 4.88 gears. I’m getting 9-10 on the highway
If your 02 sensors are original, might consider changing those out as they control fueling. Cleaning the MAF sensor not a bad idea, either (they make a spray specifically for this, don't just use brakleen on it). You can get MAF sensor cleaner at walmart.
what does fuel pump whine sound like (on a dying fuel pump)? 2000 Ford Excursion V10 limited
I just picked up a 2001 F250 V10/manual transmission. Pulls like a diesel with nearly 200k
I was looking to buy a 2002 f 250 with a v10. Would a compression test help diagnose if there is a problem with the cylinders?
Yes
I have an 02 excursion 6.8 I pull a roll off dumpster set up with it works great but I do get exaust fuels inside. Still haven't figured it out. The only other issue us the driverside front break always grabs first even after replacing all brake components.
I also have an 01 f250 that pulls a 16ft enclosed trailer for vending no issues at all with it. Both are below 130k miles.
+lifeathand Thanks for the feedback!
I have a 2003 F250V10 6.8 gas engine My truck is having a hard time getting out of park into the other gears I'm assuming it's my innerlock solenoid can you please do a video on replacing a Interlock Solenoid super duty 2003 thank you so much you have great videos very informative.
I have ample experience with this problem. The gear selector (gear shift) mechanism on these trucks are GARBAGE! Typically the gear selector tube breaks because it's made of pot aluminum. I've had to replace mine at least 3 times. Also the lever at the end of this tube can work itself loose if the small bolt at the end can/will come loose and then you'll have shifting problems. Just another poor design by Ford engineers. I've done mine so many times that I can have my steering column removed and on the work bench in 30 min. or less. Sometimes I'd like to kick those engineers right in the balls for the problems I have with my F250. I've got 318,000 miles on mine but I've had a lot of problems. Best of luck to you with your shift problem.
Linkage
Thanks for the video, great info! How much of it applies to a 2008 Triton V8? And do you have a similar video for that year? Mine is in a motor home and I keep getting a check engine light for the fuel rail pressure out of range.
Most of it. Except the 2008 have the spark plugs that can break when you're trying to do just a simple tuneup. Then you need a special tool to get the rest of it out. The replacement plugs won't break because . . . well they are just smarter than Ford engineers.
Most aluminum head V8s break exhaust manifold bolts. My smelly opinion is that with the aluminum head expanding more than the cast iron manifold the stress on the studs cause the breakage. Don't the rear studs tend to break first? The rear of the manifold is probably the hottest because all of the exhaust passes this point. Perhaps an aluminum exhaust manifold would fix this issue?
Doesn't require premium fuel
Doesn't have 360 hp Isn't a 3v lol
Mainly problems with spark plug ejection on the early non pi v10s
They talked about the pvc valve but not wear it leaks at the bent elbow under the upper intake
All issues In the very first minute of the video
Was a mechanic for a fleet of 2v 6.8s keep your manifolds healthy and don't go below 2 quarts low on oil ever and you have a 350xxx mile motor
How do you keep your exhaust manifolds healthy?...
@@dylancampbell8064 make sure you massage them at the end of the day
Know anything about tuning or performance chips?
Does the 2000 2V 315 HP have the spark plug thread issue?
I have a 99 f53 with a 36’ holiday rambler on it, I realize it’s very heavy but it very gutless, it almost seems like its not getting full throttle. The person I got it from had Banks put long tube headers on and a transmission thing that plugs into the transmission, I also think it has tune plugged into it, any ideas? Thanks, Jerry
Would be cool if you did a video about the the intigrated relay panel for the fuel pump and related components. Cost me $1300 in St George Utah to have the Ford integrated relay bypassed so that I could get home. Now I'm having trouble with the other integrated components on the same panel. Would be a great video to see what's involved with just replacing the whole panel instead of waiting for each relay to fail.
Umm.. forgot to add.... had to have the fuel pump relay bypassed.
Please video about top common problems Honda Civic 2001-2005 engine 1.7
There really aren't many, i guess head gasket leak from overheating.
1.) It's a lawnmower.
My 33 ft Class A Motorhome with the Tritons V10 6.8 motor is struggling to climb hills after I replaced Pcv valve & hose, both O2 sensors & MAF sensor & TPS. Ran fine for 1 day & took hills good, now engine light on again and no power going up hills. Can u advice or help?
+@jamesbinger29 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
It would be nice to see a video on the grounds
I have a friend with a 2007 crew cab and it lost power while towing a camper over the hills and when you start it up you can definitely hear an irregular erratic firing that sounds like a valve issue on the passenger side. I need to remove the valve cover there and inspect the cam and rockers. At the tail pipe you can feel that there is an erratic pulse of exhaust. Do I need to jack up the cab to get to this? Is there something else that I could be having an issue with?
Need to make video about removing oil pan and gasket.
i have a 2000 f250 super duty with v10 and when night temps goes 32 degrees or below it is a little hard to start and if as it was a few days ago when temp went down low temps it wouldn't hit a lick, what would cause that?
+@charlesrussell7090 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Hi, great info. I have a question that you might be able to help me with... I have Limited Excursion V10, and when I'm moving right along the road and I hit 45-55MPH my engine and take my foot off the gas pedal the motor starts to sputter and the engine seems like its gonna cut out on me. When I give it gas and pass 50-60MPH the sputtering stops. I can't seem to figure out what the problem is??? Any suggestions?
Jack Rox •
Could be a Tune up ?
New plugs & wires ?
If its fuel injected '
check clean or replace ?
Ignition Coils '
check clean or replace ?
Check the throttle body and sensors they might need cleaning or be replaced ?
You've got some home work buddy '
start off by cleaning injectors with fuel line and injector cleaner in fuel tank ?
Check all wires and hoses in engine compartment.
Another thing could be the fuel pump giving out or dirty ?
Good luck ' like i mentioned start off with cheapest route first, it's all process of elimination 👍
Read what i wrote earlier, i don't know if it all went through ?
Read codes with OBD scanner,
I forgot to mention that earlier
My truck did the same thing, when I was on a trip, I scanned the codes and found out that I had a miss fire on #4, so I bought plugs and coils and changed out just #4 plug and coil and running fine, I thought my transmission was going out! And my truck never threw a code! I hope this helps.
By any chance does it do it at idle as well every now and then?
I have this same motor and I’m having a ticking noise from 2500 rpm to 3000 rpm nothing before or after that and not feeling any power loss while it’s doing the tick any ideas ?
+Cameron Howell We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Coil, spark plug, exhaust manifold leaks, Lifter, Rocker, Valve Spring! Check them in that order as that easiest, and cheapest! Make sure coils are seated and sealed, wire connectors are secure! Use a stethoscope to isolate the problem area! If you suspect a bad coil, swap it with one from another cylinder! If the issue starts at the other cylinder, it's the coil! Lifters, Rocker are easy and the valve cover is simple to remove! Just take your time putting it back on! Make sure the gasket seats properly or you'll be starting over! Don't replace any springs unless during inspection you find one is broken! If it's any of the "Lash Adjusters/Lifters" it's because something got inside it and is stopping it from completing a full compression cycle! Many good YT videos on lash adjuster replacement! Don't forget to preload them before installing! Good luck!
The V10 also had dipstick tube problems ,,, if it breaks off by the oil pan and you cant remove the piece left in the oil pan I belive you have to remove the engine to fix the problem .
yikes! dunno, but doubt a bigger piece like that would get past the pick up screen tho
Ahhh I have a 2002 Triton V10 Excursion… dam I should have gone desire… Well I’ve had to have 3 of the plugs replaced as they blew while on the road. Sounds like you dropped a muffler…. What was not said, is the shop that does the work needs special tools to prepare for and insert the Helicoils. The drilling rig has a vacuum attachment to suck up as much of the shavings while drilling and you need a bore scope / camera to look down into the cylinder area and inspect to make sure you got the all. Then repeat after threading for Helicoil and after inserting Helicoil… I basically bought the tool for the shop the first time they did this for me and lucky me it was one of the ones near the firewall…. I think it ran about $800 with the next two costing about $300 as they were further out…. I’m afraid to service the remaining 7 plugs as I fear exactly what you said here, plugs and threads will come out. I am extremely disappointed with Ford that they did not fess up and do a recall of their own on such a bad engineering issue. Left me stranded twice and my wife and sone once…. Now it gets 8 miles to the gallon and sits on the street gathering dust/dirt….
Oh yea…. You forgot another BIG issue…. DEATH WOBBLE! I have that issue nw as well and that’s why it sits parked not being used…. My wife is constantly after me to get rid of it….
Another way is to pull the fuel pump relay so the engine won't start then crank the engine several times to clear out the aluminum shavings. I've had 100% success doing this with other people's vehicle. My V10 finally did the same thing while I was on the road. Stopped at a NAPA and they had the kit so I did it right there in their parking lot. Pulled my f.pump relay, cranked it, put the plug back in and continued on my hunting trip. But the vacuum tool sounds really trick! Thanks for the info.
What's the pcv part called on the driver side? I can't find a part number. You showed the passenger side. Thanks
Nice , question? Is this the same v10 that's found in the RV motor home's,?
2003 6.8L F350. Pings with 93 octane. Idle is Very smooth. No engine light. It will ping at cold or at operating temperature. Hauling a load or empty.
Should I start with replacing the PCV valve and hose then work up to the Mass air flow sensor?
It does seem to have power, but I have to ease the throttle when accelerating. 1/3 throttle at most.
Hello congratulations you for the channel I have an excursion 6.8 V10 I feel very well despite some problems .. when I accelerate I feel vibrations with a whistle .. do you think it could be the PCV valve? Or could it be some problem with the transmission? Thank you very much for your help Marcelo from Italy do you speak Spanish maybe?
My 99 v 10 sputters and hesitate not sure if it's fuel spark or sticking valves it doesn't do it all the time mainly when it's warm and ecelerating hard not sure what to do about it no codes and no engine light
General question about the v 10. My 350 will suddenly die while driving when it’s hot out. It’s fuel injected but I can’t help but wonder if it is vaporlocking? Can a fuel injected engine have this problem?
I have a ticking noise when i press on the throttle while im driving. I dont have it while at idle. Any recommendations on what it might be?
My 2000 f350 had the plugs blow out like u said.number 5 and 3. But I have multiple missfires that I can correct
Oil pump replacement procedure
I have a 2003 f250 super duty 6.8l v10 that stalls occasionally but starts right up again after turning the switch off for 30 seconds or so. I've replaced multiple sensors, the fuel filter and relay, and cleaned all connections but the issue remains. If you have any ideas for resolving this issue of stalling I would greatly appreciate your feed back.
I can drive the truck 4-5 days without a single stall, then out of the blue she stalls. Most offen it stalls under power but has done so at idle 3 times. Can you help?
Spark plug ejection stopped in 2005 with the 3v.
You guys are the best 👌
Got a 2000 F250 super duty just randomly started overheating about 1 & 1/2 hrs into a 2 hour trip. Coolant looks a dirty brown... It started losing power so we had it towed before the damage got any worse.
I have a 2000 excursion with the v10 and I can tell you the pop of a plug coming out while running down the road at 55 mph is not a little pop it sounds like a tire blow out
I like this guy.
+jwl2011 Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Hi buddy I got the same truck but 2000… It really is a very reliable, resistant and durable vehicle. I have traveled all over the country with it, I have pulled heavy trailers and it has never let me down, the spark plug thing is true, it has done it 2 times after 10 years with it... but I have now a P1633 what should I do? thank you
Question: Do the 2002 have that spark plug issue?
Okay I got 2000 f250 super the headlights are flickering new alternator and a new battery I change the ground strap in back of the engine still flickering what could be the problem