For those intricate geometries, I bought a multi-pack of varied sizes of make up foundation blotters shaped like a water drop. Worked better than wadding up the suede cloth.
Okay here is my plan: Wash, dry, coat tires. Then, polish each wheel with Sonax by hand. Then hit it with some Gyeon IPS (that cleaner "stuff"). Then Dlux. I'm on the fence - to me it's much easier to spray reload on every 4-5th car wash - as I do the entire car that way. Either way - hopefully can keep them cleaner looking out here in the Moab dust bowl...
Hi Mike, a great review, i really like Carpro, not trying to be bashfull, their products always land on my shelf (some more than others) having said that: Im highly dissapointed in this wheel coating, worked super hard with prep, polished (even more work) my new wheels (dealer super srcatched) and applied two layers on my summer and winter ones, winter went to storage and using my summer ones now, 3 months in and the coating is failining (i need to add BMW high performance M brakes) - thought it was clogged, used iron remover, washed with reset, used DIY mineral remover, helped till the next wash when i can see the water flat on most of the face of the wheel. Maybe it was my error applying, i don't want to say this product sucks or anything, just sharing my opinion, used a topper on them now, if i can ask, do you coat your wheels or just use spray on rinse off products like Quick Beads or Wetcoat? I think i might be switching to that. Cheers and thank you for a great review!
Hard to say what exactly happened and why you lost the hydrophobic behavior so quick. You should at least have gotten a year out of it. I coat my wheels and the Equinox wheels are up for a new coating but will be using a paint coating. At the moment I have let it degrade as I was testing out the spray and rinse sealant from The Final Details which works very well. It is quick and easy.
@@MikeGDetailing Yeah i know, so many variables to consider in coating premature failure, may be user error but still it hits my feelings as i really respect Carpro. Ahh The Final Details is not avalible here in the EU yet from what i'm seeing sadly. Did you test Quick Beads maybe? Im not a fan of these spray and rinse but as you may know i'm in need of a sealant for my dead coating :/
I have not used quick beads but I hear good things about it. I rarely use spray and rinse sealants. I usually just use the same drying aid I use on the paint.
Great video 👍. Enjoy how you keep it real, know your products just don't take someone's opinion. As a detailer myself I always do my research if I'm using a product no matter the use of said product. Anyways keep up the great work 👏
Hey you said you used this on your wheels that were already coated. So in like 1 years, when I will want to re-apply DLUX because it's weak/gone, I don't just re-apply right? I'll need to polish? If so, is polishing by hand with a microfiber enough?
If I said that then I was not right. I was trying to get across that the coating lasts about a year with a single layer and a second layer adds more durability. I can't recall as I made this video some time ago. Maintain it and it will last long. For example using a spray sealant like Reload or Elixir. Or even a spray and rinse like Hydro2. So there is no wrong way to do it. If you want the maximum durability then polish and apply. If you just want to top it then you can with a thorough decon wash. Keep in mind that you may not get the durability out of it. I would apply 2 layers of it so it lasts longer. Polishing by hand is fine. In most cases that will remove an aged coating.
@@MikeGDetailing Oh ok maybe I misheard to. Ok cool thanks. I just finished applying DLUX to my wheels just did 1 layer but next time may do 2. I swap them in winter anyways. A bit tricky to get to use it because it was my first ever ceramic but yeah by the 4th wheel think I got the good hang of it. I'll probably polish and then do 2 layers to make sure the next time I re-apply it in X years. Good to know, I will definitely be using Elixir for my dry aid probably every 2 wash or 1 a month.
@MikeGDetailing I have a Gliss that I only used once but it expired in November 2021, can it still work for me to apply on the rims? , After applying Dlux and Gliss can I apply hrydo2 some times?
Try Gliss on a separate area to see if it is still hydrophobic. For example if you have a test panel. You certainly can use hyrdo2 at any time you desire.
@MikeGDetailing thanks for your reply. I have other questions, how long does it take to apply hrydro2 after the last coat ?, It's possible use perl in plastics and before applicate Dlux ?
Has it been maintained at all during that time frame? If it has then a decon wash and either another layer or even a layer of Gliss if you want to stay in the CarPro family. I would recommend just topping it with Gyeon CanCoat after a decon wash as it is super easy to use and it performs excellent as a maintenance topper to any coating.
@@MikeGDetailing thanks Mike. I actually just bought my bottle of Dlux and about to apply. My first time applying and watched your video. Great instructions. I wanted to try 2layers but was just wondering what happens after the life of the coating. If it can just be layered on top or actually needs to be removed for reapplying. Thanks for the clarity 👍 Love your videos man keep the great work
Using MF towels after ceramic coating wheels. Hello guys maybe noob question but do I need to use like new towels on each wheels? I was thinking to use 2 towels to cure the coating. Im using the DLUX. Or I can use same towels for other wheels?
I just applied Dlux to my mom’s wheels and two out of the 4 lost their hydrophobic properties after just the first wash one month later. I applied 2 coats, 1 hour apart, but I waited way longer than you did before wiping off, as I did the whole face before wiping off and they were larger wheels. I did not experience any high spots waiting that long. I plan on reapplying to the wheels with the failed coating to see if it brings it back. Could any of these things have messed up the curing process? It did not get wet for 3 days after application
@@MikeGDetailing Clear coat. I cleaned the wheels with brake buster and wiped down with eraser before applying. I didn't bother with iron decon because the car has ceramic brake pads and barely produces brake dust. The car's about 9 months old and I've cleaned it at least once a month so brake dust never had the chance to accumulate
@@TheMstwntdLMSV123 perhaps there was still something on the wheels like a wax or sealant. Try giving them a quick polish by hand, panel wipe and then coat them. You should get better results. DLUX flashes pretty fast so once it gets tacky it is ready to be wiped off.
Understandable. After using so many coatings through out the years, it does not bother me if a coating is slick or not. The thing about SiC is the flash time has to be spot on before it is wiped off. Wiped off too soon and it loses it's hydrophobic behavior just like the predecessor TiO2. Wait too long and it is streaky.
@@MikeGDetailing as i do work in colder enviroemnt i dont have such a issues, i do full face of wheel with dlux and still giving it some time before wiping with not issue with "kinda difficult spokes" and same was with coating entire car with SIC. As i do work with temps 15-20 celsius i feel like it make any coating job easier for me. The only coating which gave me trouble in past was actually Lite, it was flashing so fast that i have to split even bonnet in half :/
Hey Mike, I have a set of bronze (almite) te37 I’m about to coat. Choosing between mohs evo or dlux. Which would you recommend? Or can I not go wrong with either?
Maybe a noob question but I want to get this right as I have a brand new set of TE37’s. After applying dlux and letting it cure, when it’s time for a wash can I still use wheel cleaner or will it kill the dlux?
7-10 days like most coatings. You will find that there really is no need for a wheel cleaner once a coating is on the wheels. I do not use a wheel cleaner. I use a car soap and water. Every couple months I will use an iron remover.
A coating will last as long as it is cared for. Meaning if it is maintained it will perform for a lot longer. If it is not maintained then it will not last long.
Just out of curiosity, Dlux is awesome, thats a given. SiC also covers wheels and trims and glass, which is better for wheels and trims in your opinion
@@MikeGDetailing Just seen a product for wheels being applied- never seen anything like it! Its a product called Modesta BC-06, you decon and 2 step the wheels and then use an air line with a spray guy and pretty much paint the coating on and leave under a UV lamp. The gas in the air brush uses nitrous oxide propellant. Have you seen this before? I'm probably late to the party with regards to this product- doesn't seem like a consumer grade product ha-ha 😅
I have seen that before. Actually it can be done with any coating to spray it out of a air brush. I was looking into a cordless air brush at one point but never pursued it.
I have to see if the video came out ok. I have not had a chance to go through that one. I used the Flex PXE 80 with a 3 inch pad for the barrel and the Rupes iBrid Nano on the face with the 1 inch pad.
@@leosanders3784 Found the post from carPro US on their instagram page. Gliss is a super slick top coat to add additional protection to your ceramic coating. It's applied at the time of your normal ceramic installation and boasts a hyper-slick feeling, a bigger beading angle, and a different gloss to your vehicle. There is quite a debate over whether Gliss is needed or not and what we can say is that Gliss offers an alternative look and feel to your vehicle. A layman's term of thinking about Gliss is a year-long Reload application, rather than your 3-6 month application.
I've fallen into that trap of watching too many channels and looking into too many opinions, I've changed my mind on product soo many times. As you mentioned about each channel has their thing. I'm lucky enough to have a Toyota Yaris GR on order (Europe, Asia and South America only), (USA and Japan will be getting the equivalent in the form of the Corrola GR later in the year). Its arrival is at the end of May next month. So spent too much time deliberating over which coating to get which will cover paint, glass, plastic trim, PPF and wheels. First off Gyeon synchro for body work and wheels, Apparently it doesn't work with well plastic trims or glass. Secondly, Gyeon Pure covers more surfaces well, including plastic trims and side windows. I'm now considering Adam's Advanced graphene ceramic coating, as this does every surface, paint, trim, wheels, PPF. and glass including the front screen, allegedly! So, its a bit of a mine field, fundamentally, a product that does all, lasts a very long time and saves money without buying lots of different products for each surface. Adam's Advanced seems to tick all the boxes, 9H hardness and resistance to a reasonably high temperature level for wheels ( not sure if it would be ok for a Track day). For me I'd like a single product that would be durable enough for wheels and would withstand the occasion spritz of P&S brake buster or Adam's wheel and tires (tyres UK 😉).
There are so many good products in the market but most of us get caught up in the moment and want to try the latest thing. I unsubscribed from those other channels to eliminate the noise and just focus on my stuff. The Gyeon representative that sent me the Gyeon Evo coatings was suppose to take a trip to California this month and we planned to meet. I will ask him the reasoning behind not recommending Mohs on plastic trim. As you stated Pure would be the better option to use on various types of materials. The Adams Advanced works on all surfaces. I have both versions of the Adams graphene coating on my dad front glass with no issues. I also have both versions on the wheels of my daily driver and they are holding up just fine. With proper maintenance it will hold up just fine. Another coating that would work on all surfaces is Cquartz UK 3.0. It does well on paint, glass, trim and wheels.
@@MikeGDetailing No disrespect to other channels, I think they hype up a lot of product, I also think they are pressured by the public also but that's UA-cam. I love watching your videos because you are laid back and have a care free approach to all of that stuff, you just approach things in a very real way and thats why I've subscribed and watch a lot of your videos to find honest simplistic results in your work including the advanced graphene coating on your dads car (which looks incredible by the way) 👍. Carpro is a really good brand here in the UK, a quality product much like Bilt Hamber touch-less snow foam and touch-on shampoo cleaning products which are all about strong performance and reducing contact to paint work as much as possible to reduce swirls. I digress, I've not really tapped into CQuartz UK 3.0 I've heard its a quality coating how does it hold up against Adam's advanced graphene? I know Adam's is a little bit grippy when at the levelling stage but I can work with that.
@@79blustone appreciate it. Part of the California laid back lifestyle haha. I enjoy the teaching aspect as I mentor many young engineers at my job. Here in California UK 3.0 was still doing well in terms of the hydrophobic behavior still being present at 24 months without toppers. I can at least say the Adams Advanced Graphene will get you a year. I haven't topped my wheels lately and surprised both have held up well for wheels. The water beading is tighter on Adams and the sheeting is faster. It is also slicker after wipe off. From an application stand point, Adams will feel a little more grabby but that is followed by slickness which gives a good indication that the excess was wiped off. UK comes off easier but leaves a more smooth/tacky feeling. This is how Pure Evo feels.
@@MikeGDetailing The Adam's advanced graphene ceramic spary bottle will give a year as its only something like 15% of SI02 infusion and its just a spritz and wipe, The glass bottle this you would apply with a pipette onto your applicator, Adam's suggested that 7 years from the proper stuff as it's has 45% infusion. I'm looking at Carpro Cquartz UK 3.0 has a 70% SI02 infusion and 99% purity.....plus its under £50 for the 50ml bottle, Adam's 'kit' is £159, a £110 more, is it worth the extra cash? I'm confused
@@79blustone pick one or the other. Don't worry about the amount of silica. It means nothing these days. I forgot the adams comes in a 60ml bottle and you would need the 50ml bottle of UK if you plan to do everything. CarPro recommends 2 layers where Adams is one layer ( a second layer is optional). You would be taking a risk with the Adams coating as it has not been on the market long enough. Cquartz UK 3.0 is tried and true. Also forget about the durability claims. Those are lab claims.
If you are coating the spokes and barrel, how many total sections do you do,.. 3? Two for the face/spokes of the wheel and the barrel all at once? You also mention swiping your finger to check if it is ready to wipe off. What do you look for when swiping? Thanks
Yes I split the wheel to coat half at a time and then did the rear at once. The finger allows me to see if the coating is ready to be wiped off. If the indentation of the finger stays it’s ready to be wiped off. If it is still to wet then the finger imprint will flow back on itself to a point.
@@leosanders3784 got it. Gliss will haze. That is natural for the product to do that. That is the sign to wipe it off. I thought you were asking about DLUX and the flash time for it. Then if you want slickness then Gliss the option. Just do not be surprised when it does not last long. So you will have to ask yourself if you prefer durability or ease of use. Gliss is completely optional over DLUX. I only used it to demonstrate it on this video. I don't use Gliss over DLUX. Two layers of DLUX performs jut fine. The other option is to use Cquartz SiC if slickness is what you are after. It is an actual coating and will be more durable than Gliss. SiC will perform just fine on wheels and is more durable than Gliss.
@@MikeGDetailing sorry should say your number 1 coating you prefer. And theirs so many different options out their. What should I use for prep wash. My car and rims are getting new paint job. I was told to wait 1 and a half months for carpro deluxe. What bout new paint job. Thanks. Wanna do it right the first time. What company products. If
@@brianpreston4121 my number 1 wheel coating is 22ple VM1. DLUX is second. These are my personal two favorites. Ok now I have more information to work with. So if you are getting them repainted then yes wait 30-90 days. If they are baked then you can coat them sooner. If they are going to be powder coated then they can be coated right away without waiting. Are you going to put them on the car right away? If not then a simple panel wipe like CarPro Eraser and then DLUX is all you need. If you do put them on and drive for 1.5 months then wash with any pH neutral soap (CarPro Reset), panel wipe (CarPro Eraser) and ceramic coat.
@@MikeGDetailing thank you. No gonna put the coatig on right after. What prep steps for pre coating a car after ots been painted. What should I use to prep the car. Thank you. Disabled vet building my daughter a show car. Want to do it right the first time.
Go for it. It’s not that durable compared to DLUX. One round of tarx and it would be degraded to the point where it’s gone. Better to just use hydro2 every few washes.
For those intricate geometries, I bought a multi-pack of varied sizes of make up foundation blotters shaped like a water drop. Worked better than wadding up the suede cloth.
Yeah great video thanks! All the info and the demo is much appreciated.
ha ha never heard someone say hey that’s slick, not glossy. hence - obsessed garage. beutiful wheels obvious you’ve taken good care’
Hi Mike, thanks for the video, I'm interested in the tire stand, would you have a link available for it? TIA
Thanks. It is the Adams Wheel Stand amzn.to/3Zbx8GE
@@MikeGDetailing thanks 👍
Okay here is my plan: Wash, dry, coat tires. Then, polish each wheel with Sonax by hand. Then hit it with some Gyeon IPS (that cleaner "stuff"). Then Dlux. I'm on the fence - to me it's much easier to spray reload on every 4-5th car wash - as I do the entire car that way. Either way - hopefully can keep them cleaner looking out here in the Moab dust bowl...
I love the sloppiness & glossy look
Hi Mike, a great review, i really like Carpro, not trying to be bashfull, their products always land on my shelf (some more than others) having said that: Im highly dissapointed in this wheel coating, worked super hard with prep, polished (even more work) my new wheels (dealer super srcatched) and applied two layers on my summer and winter ones, winter went to storage and using my summer ones now, 3 months in and the coating is failining (i need to add BMW high performance M brakes) - thought it was clogged, used iron remover, washed with reset, used DIY mineral remover, helped till the next wash when i can see the water flat on most of the face of the wheel. Maybe it was my error applying, i don't want to say this product sucks or anything, just sharing my opinion, used a topper on them now, if i can ask, do you coat your wheels or just use spray on rinse off products like Quick Beads or Wetcoat? I think i might be switching to that. Cheers and thank you for a great review!
Hard to say what exactly happened and why you lost the hydrophobic behavior so quick. You should at least have gotten a year out of it. I coat my wheels and the Equinox wheels are up for a new coating but will be using a paint coating. At the moment I have let it degrade as I was testing out the spray and rinse sealant from The Final Details which works very well. It is quick and easy.
@@MikeGDetailing Yeah i know, so many variables to consider in coating premature failure, may be user error but still it hits my feelings as i really respect Carpro. Ahh The Final Details is not avalible here in the EU yet from what i'm seeing sadly. Did you test Quick Beads maybe? Im not a fan of these spray and rinse but as you may know i'm in need of a sealant for my dead coating :/
I have not used quick beads but I hear good things about it. I rarely use spray and rinse sealants. I usually just use the same drying aid I use on the paint.
@@MikeGDetailing I don't either, i do the same, just wanted to try them on my wheels (would never use them on paint, prefer QD-s) Anyway, thanks!
Great Video Mike! nice to see how you use Dlux 🙂
Thanks
Great video 👍. Enjoy how you keep it real, know your products just don't take someone's opinion. As a detailer myself I always do my research if I'm using a product no matter the use of said product. Anyways keep up the great work 👏
Thanks. Always a good approach to research to not go back and make extra work.
How long do you need to wait before applying the second application of DLUX? ! Also what were you using as an applicator ? Thnx? Great video
1 hour in between layers. And I cut a small piece of an autofiber saver sheet for an applicator.
amzn.to/3EpnYP8
Hey you said you used this on your wheels that were already coated. So in like 1 years, when I will want to re-apply DLUX because it's weak/gone, I don't just re-apply right? I'll need to polish? If so, is polishing by hand with a microfiber enough?
If I said that then I was not right. I was trying to get across that the coating lasts about a year with a single layer and a second layer adds more durability. I can't recall as I made this video some time ago. Maintain it and it will last long. For example using a spray sealant like Reload or Elixir. Or even a spray and rinse like Hydro2.
So there is no wrong way to do it. If you want the maximum durability then polish and apply. If you just want to top it then you can with a thorough decon wash. Keep in mind that you may not get the durability out of it. I would apply 2 layers of it so it lasts longer.
Polishing by hand is fine. In most cases that will remove an aged coating.
@@MikeGDetailing Oh ok maybe I misheard to. Ok cool thanks. I just finished applying DLUX to my wheels just did 1 layer but next time may do 2. I swap them in winter anyways. A bit tricky to get to use it because it was my first ever ceramic but yeah by the 4th wheel think I got the good hang of it. I'll probably polish and then do 2 layers to make sure the next time I re-apply it in X years. Good to know, I will definitely be using Elixir for my dry aid probably every 2 wash or 1 a month.
Great coating, they go a long way.
Yes they do
Great video and also very nice wheels !! could you give me the details concerning the wheels ? Brand en type ? Thx
Stock wheels for a 2018 Equinox with the red line package
@MikeGDetailing I have a Gliss that I only used once but it expired in November 2021, can it still work for me to apply on the rims? , After applying Dlux and Gliss can I apply hrydo2 some times?
Try Gliss on a separate area to see if it is still hydrophobic. For example if you have a test panel. You certainly can use hyrdo2 at any time you desire.
@MikeGDetailing thanks for your reply. I have other questions, how long does it take to apply hrydro2 after the last coat ?, It's possible use perl in plastics and before applicate Dlux ?
Great video Mikey!! can you do a water behaviour video next for this.
Thanks. I will do my best. I will ask my brother to see if I can convince him to let me wash it.
After a year or 19months of use and you want to top up dlux. Do you need to remove the old layer of Dlux some how or top over the old worn coating?
Has it been maintained at all during that time frame? If it has then a decon wash and either another layer or even a layer of Gliss if you want to stay in the CarPro family. I would recommend just topping it with Gyeon CanCoat after a decon wash as it is super easy to use and it performs excellent as a maintenance topper to any coating.
@@MikeGDetailing thanks Mike. I actually just bought my bottle of Dlux and about to apply. My first time applying and watched your video. Great instructions. I wanted to try 2layers but was just wondering what happens after the life of the coating. If it can just be layered on top or actually needs to be removed for reapplying. Thanks for the clarity 👍
Love your videos man keep the great work
@@MikeGDetailing oh and how many 18" wheels do you think I can coat with a 30ml bottle? Doing face and barrels?
@@jameschan1334 I would say 3 maybe 4 sets of wheels.
What brand or tipe of towel do you use to ? The yelow and the Orange one.
The yellow one is a costco kirkland towel and orange one is a carpro 2face towel. I normally use costco towels for wheels since they are disposable.
Using MF towels after ceramic coating wheels.
Hello guys maybe noob question but do I need to use like new towels on each wheels? I was thinking to use 2 towels to cure the coating. Im using the DLUX.
Or I can use same towels for other wheels?
You have 8 sides to a towel. Meaning you can get by with two towels in most instances. One for the initial and one for the final wipe.
I just applied Dlux to my mom’s wheels and two out of the 4 lost their hydrophobic properties after just the first wash one month later. I applied 2 coats, 1 hour apart, but I waited way longer than you did before wiping off, as I did the whole face before wiping off and they were larger wheels. I did not experience any high spots waiting that long. I plan on reapplying to the wheels with the failed coating to see if it brings it back. Could any of these things have messed up the curing process? It did not get wet for 3 days after application
What type of finish is the wheel(ie matte, clear coat)? What was the prep process?
@@MikeGDetailing Clear coat. I cleaned the wheels with brake buster and wiped down with eraser before applying. I didn't bother with iron decon because the car has ceramic brake pads and barely produces brake dust. The car's about 9 months old and I've cleaned it at least once a month so brake dust never had the chance to accumulate
@@TheMstwntdLMSV123 perhaps there was still something on the wheels like a wax or sealant. Try giving them a quick polish by hand, panel wipe and then coat them. You should get better results. DLUX flashes pretty fast so once it gets tacky it is ready to be wiped off.
May you use reload every so often to help with the protection to last longer
Sure you can.
hi Mike, did you apply Dlux to plastics ? do you need to wipe it off after like 30 sec ? curious to know what is your experience/opninion with this
I apply it to the entire plastic surface and come back and wipe it off. Especially on smooth trim. It sits more than 30 seconds on trim when I do it.
im using SIC as top coat as i dont like feel of dlux on its own :)
Understandable. After using so many coatings through out the years, it does not bother me if a coating is slick or not. The thing about SiC is the flash time has to be spot on before it is wiped off. Wiped off too soon and it loses it's hydrophobic behavior just like the predecessor TiO2. Wait too long and it is streaky.
@@MikeGDetailing as i do work in colder enviroemnt i dont have such a issues, i do full face of wheel with dlux and still giving it some time before wiping with not issue with "kinda difficult spokes" and same was with coating entire car with SIC. As i do work with temps 15-20 celsius i feel like it make any coating job easier for me. The only coating which gave me trouble in past was actually Lite, it was flashing so fast that i have to split even bonnet in half :/
Hey Mike, I have a set of bronze (almite) te37 I’m about to coat. Choosing between mohs evo or dlux. Which would you recommend? Or can I not go wrong with either?
You would be ok with either one. DLUX would have the higher temperature tolerance between the two.
Maybe a noob question but I want to get this right as I have a brand new set of TE37’s. After applying dlux and letting it cure, when it’s time for a wash can I still use wheel cleaner or will it kill the dlux?
7-10 days like most coatings. You will find that there really is no need for a wheel cleaner once a coating is on the wheels. I do not use a wheel cleaner. I use a car soap and water. Every couple months I will use an iron remover.
@@MikeGDetailing thank you. Appreciate it. Have a good day.
@@MikeGDetailing also one more question for you. Should I ceramic coat and then add my spoke sticker or add the sticker first then ceramic coat?
@@SonicGray_FL1 put the sticker first just to make sure it sticks to the wheel. Then ceramic coat over the sticker during the ceramic coating process.
@@MikeGDetailing thanks for all your help.
The wheels looked great but only get 18 months, not sure if that worth it or not
A coating will last as long as it is cared for. Meaning if it is maintained it will perform for a lot longer. If it is not maintained then it will not last long.
Just out of curiosity, Dlux is awesome, thats a given. SiC also covers wheels and trims and glass, which is better for wheels and trims in your opinion
I haven’t used SiC on glass or on trim. UK does work very well for trim and wheels. First choice would be DLUX then UK.
@@MikeGDetailing Just seen a product for wheels being applied- never seen anything like it! Its a product called Modesta BC-06, you decon and 2 step the wheels and then use an air line with a spray guy and pretty much paint the coating on and leave under a UV lamp. The gas in the air brush uses nitrous oxide propellant. Have you seen this before? I'm probably late to the party with regards to this product- doesn't seem like a consumer grade product ha-ha 😅
I have seen that before. Actually it can be done with any coating to spray it out of a air brush. I was looking into a cordless air brush at one point but never pursued it.
You skipped the rim polishing part of the video. I would have liked to see some of that. Which polisher did you use?
I have to see if the video came out ok. I have not had a chance to go through that one. I used the Flex PXE 80 with a 3 inch pad for the barrel and the Rupes iBrid Nano on the face with the 1 inch pad.
Can you just use gliss only?
Sure. But going through all the effort I would choose something more durable. Think of Gliss as a longer lasting Reload.
@Mike G to me gliss made it look shiny, but is a sealant true?
@@leosanders3784 Found the post from carPro US on their instagram page.
Gliss is a super slick top coat to add additional protection to your ceramic coating. It's applied at the time of your normal ceramic installation and boasts a hyper-slick feeling, a bigger beading angle, and a different gloss to your vehicle.
There is quite a debate over whether Gliss is needed or not and what we can say is that Gliss offers an alternative look and feel to your vehicle. A layman's term of thinking about Gliss is a year-long Reload application, rather than your 3-6 month application.
Can’t I also use this on trim?
Yes you can. Makes it an additional benefit having DLUX.
How long would you wait to apply the second coat of DLUX?
Minimum 1 hour
I've fallen into that trap of watching too many channels and looking into too many opinions, I've changed my mind on product soo many times. As you mentioned about each channel has their thing.
I'm lucky enough to have a Toyota Yaris GR on order (Europe, Asia and South America only), (USA and Japan will be getting the equivalent in the form of the Corrola GR later in the year). Its arrival is at the end of May next month. So spent too much time deliberating over which coating to get which will cover paint, glass, plastic trim, PPF and wheels.
First off Gyeon synchro for body work and wheels, Apparently it doesn't work with well plastic trims or glass.
Secondly, Gyeon Pure covers more surfaces well, including plastic trims and side windows.
I'm now considering Adam's Advanced graphene ceramic coating, as this does every surface, paint, trim, wheels, PPF. and glass including the front screen, allegedly!
So, its a bit of a mine field, fundamentally, a product that does all, lasts a very long time and saves money without buying lots of different products for each surface.
Adam's Advanced seems to tick all the boxes, 9H hardness and resistance to a reasonably high temperature level for wheels ( not sure if it would be ok for a Track day). For me I'd like a single product that would be durable enough for wheels and would withstand the occasion spritz of P&S brake buster or Adam's wheel and tires (tyres UK 😉).
There are so many good products in the market but most of us get caught up in the moment and want to try the latest thing. I unsubscribed from those other channels to eliminate the noise and just focus on my stuff.
The Gyeon representative that sent me the Gyeon Evo coatings was suppose to take a trip to California this month and we planned to meet. I will ask him the reasoning behind not recommending Mohs on plastic trim. As you stated Pure would be the better option to use on various types of materials.
The Adams Advanced works on all surfaces. I have both versions of the Adams graphene coating on my dad front glass with no issues. I also have both versions on the wheels of my daily driver and they are holding up just fine. With proper maintenance it will hold up just fine.
Another coating that would work on all surfaces is Cquartz UK 3.0. It does well on paint, glass, trim and wheels.
@@MikeGDetailing No disrespect to other channels, I think they hype up a lot of product, I also think they are pressured by the public also but that's UA-cam.
I love watching your videos because you are laid back and have a care free approach to all of that stuff, you just approach things in a very real way and thats why I've subscribed and watch a lot of your videos to find honest simplistic results in your work including the advanced graphene coating on your dads car (which looks incredible by the way) 👍.
Carpro is a really good brand here in the UK, a quality product much like Bilt Hamber touch-less snow foam and touch-on shampoo cleaning products which are all about strong performance and reducing contact to paint work as much as possible to reduce swirls.
I digress, I've not really tapped into CQuartz UK 3.0 I've heard its a quality coating how does it hold up against Adam's advanced graphene? I know Adam's is a little bit grippy when at the levelling stage but I can work with that.
@@79blustone appreciate it. Part of the California laid back lifestyle haha. I enjoy the teaching aspect as I mentor many young engineers at my job.
Here in California UK 3.0 was still doing well in terms of the hydrophobic behavior still being present at 24 months without toppers. I can at least say the Adams Advanced Graphene will get you a year. I haven't topped my wheels lately and surprised both have held up well for wheels. The water beading is tighter on Adams and the sheeting is faster. It is also slicker after wipe off. From an application stand point, Adams will feel a little more grabby but that is followed by slickness which gives a good indication that the excess was wiped off. UK comes off easier but leaves a more smooth/tacky feeling. This is how Pure Evo feels.
@@MikeGDetailing The Adam's advanced graphene ceramic spary bottle will give a year as its only something like 15% of SI02 infusion and its just a spritz and wipe, The glass bottle this you would apply with a pipette onto your applicator, Adam's suggested that 7 years from the proper stuff as it's has 45% infusion. I'm looking at Carpro Cquartz UK 3.0 has a 70% SI02 infusion and 99% purity.....plus its under £50 for the 50ml bottle, Adam's 'kit' is £159, a £110 more, is it worth the extra cash? I'm confused
@@79blustone pick one or the other. Don't worry about the amount of silica. It means nothing these days. I forgot the adams comes in a 60ml bottle and you would need the 50ml bottle of UK if you plan to do everything.
CarPro recommends 2 layers where Adams is one layer ( a second layer is optional). You would be taking a risk with the Adams coating as it has not been on the market long enough. Cquartz UK 3.0 is tried and true.
Also forget about the durability claims. Those are lab claims.
If you are coating the spokes and barrel, how many total sections do you do,.. 3? Two for the face/spokes of the wheel and the barrel all at once?
You also mention swiping your finger to check if it is ready to wipe off. What do you look for when swiping? Thanks
Yes I split the wheel to coat half at a time and then did the rear at once.
The finger allows me to see if the coating is ready to be wiped off. If the indentation of the finger stays it’s ready to be wiped off. If it is still to wet then the finger imprint will flow back on itself to a point.
It seemed like it didn't take for it was ready to come off
Not sure what you are asking or stating here. DLUX does not need to sit long before it can be removed. The longer it sits the harder it is to remove.
Looking at video it didn't take long for the gliss to be ready to come off & plus it had a haze to it
Thanks for the reply, I may try it my self, getting some hellcat replica gloss rims soon
@@leosanders3784 got it. Gliss will haze. That is natural for the product to do that. That is the sign to wipe it off. I thought you were asking about DLUX and the flash time for it.
Then if you want slickness then Gliss the option. Just do not be surprised when it does not last long. So you will have to ask yourself if you prefer durability or ease of use. Gliss is completely optional over DLUX. I only used it to demonstrate it on this video. I don't use Gliss over DLUX. Two layers of DLUX performs jut fine.
The other option is to use Cquartz SiC if slickness is what you are after. It is an actual coating and will be more durable than Gliss. SiC will perform just fine on wheels and is more durable than Gliss.
Great video. But you spoke so fast for your top coating
The top coat is not required. It is completely optional.
@@MikeGDetailing sorry should say your number 1 coating you prefer. And theirs so many different options out their. What should I use for prep wash. My car and rims are getting new paint job. I was told to wait 1 and a half months for carpro deluxe. What bout new paint job. Thanks. Wanna do it right the first time. What company products. If
@@brianpreston4121 my number 1 wheel coating is 22ple VM1. DLUX is second. These are my personal two favorites. Ok now I have more information to work with. So if you are getting them repainted then yes wait 30-90 days. If they are baked then you can coat them sooner. If they are going to be powder coated then they can be coated right away without waiting.
Are you going to put them on the car right away? If not then a simple panel wipe like CarPro Eraser and then DLUX is all you need. If you do put them on and drive for 1.5 months then wash with any pH neutral soap (CarPro Reset), panel wipe (CarPro Eraser) and ceramic coat.
@@MikeGDetailing thank you. No gonna put the coatig on right after. What prep steps for pre coating a car after ots been painted. What should I use to prep the car. Thank you. Disabled vet building my daughter a show car. Want to do it right the first time.
So you are looking to apply a coating to the entire vehicle or the wheels? Or are you wanting to coat both?
So again just use gliss only,
Go for it. It’s not that durable compared to DLUX. One round of tarx and it would be degraded to the point where it’s gone. Better to just use hydro2 every few washes.
@@MikeGDetailing I would like just to have a slick finish & hydra, where the water just runs off &to make cleaning brake dust off easier
Also have that glossy look