Grand Cherokee Power Windows are an Absolute Nightmare --- 1999-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ
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- Опубліковано 26 сер 2024
- In this Video, I tell you about the FRUSTRATIONS of the 1999-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Power Window & Locks, give you some troubleshooting tips, and show you a problem I've never experienced before!
PLEASE HIT THE LIKE BUTTON if this Video Helped You!!!
Thank you!
Door Harnesses available Aftermarket. Link:
www.amazon.com...
Music used in this Video:
No Quarter by TeknoAXE's Royalty Free Music
Licensed under Creative Commons 4.0
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#jeep #powerwindow #help
Disclaimer:
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It wasn’t once in a million because this was the exact problem I had and you saved me a huge headache. Thank you so much for the awesome video.
Yep, having the same problem on my '04. To make it better, once the passenger side stopped working, about 2 days later, get to work, and on a wim, try the lock button on driver's door.....it worked, so did the mirror and key fob. Got home from work, back to not working. Yesterday, and so far today, all working again. 🤯
You saved me hours of wire chasing. Once I had power over to passenger door, ran to junk yard $10.00 got window module fixed problem. I had wire issues in the drive door a few years back.
Holy cow.
Had the exact same symptoms. Was confused on the yellow/violet wire, replaced both wire harnessess, and driver door module. After lots and lots of research and frustration....found this video. Thank you!! Never would've guessed that'd be the culprit!
The right door holds the door control module for the entire vehicle. Usually when it fails all the doors except the drivers door stop working. It also holds the receiver for the wireless remotes and the hanging wire is the antenna. Earlier models may not have the antenna. It was added later because of complaints about poor range of the remotes. I've had two of these go bad. I now have a spare.
How do you get remotes to work when you replace the module?
They need to be programmed by a locksmith or purchase a programmer module from autozone.
I was so excited to see this video! I am so over redoing the wiring for the doors! I have owed mine for 18 years and yes usually the wiring is bad. But I gave this a shot. Nope unfortunately I have 2 extra switches and bad wiring still. Thanks for letting people know about this though!
Soooo glad I checked out this video. Just today my remote unlock didn’t work. Got inside using the key, flipped the unlock switch and nothing. Went to roll down the windows and nothing on the passenger side. Tomorrow I’m going to the salvage yard and looking for that passenger module~~!~!
My Jeep had the exact symptoms. I'm so glad that I saw your video. l got another switch for the passenger side and l am back in business! Thanks for a great video it's saved much time and money
Thanks soooo much, I started having issues with no controls working on our passenger side 2003 Grand Cherokee. Troubleshooting I found a broken wire in the door harness, repaired but still nothing. I checked and had 12VDC at the switch module so I took your advice and got one on E-Bay for $50.00, popped it in and everything is back to normal!!!!
Mucho appreciated!!!!
Also working on peterbuilts, these window modules went out every once in a while
Bro can’t thank you enough just finished fixing my jeep had a cut wire weird don’t know how that happened probably when they installed the aftermarket alarm and music.
Man, great video! My passenger side, windows, door locks, and now the rear window and door will not open or unlock. Fortunately, I watch your video and now I am going to take the door panel off and somehow check my passenger side. I have another jeep grand Cherokee. It’s a 2002 model that I can use to panel from that side to check it like you did with your parents car. Thank you for the video!
Just came across this video after a Google search. My UK WJ passenger window will not go up from the passenger switch but works from the Drivers side. Mechanic had a look yesterday and told me the switch has failed.
OK - I could get another passenger window/lock switch module, but that module also is the receiver for the remote lock/unlock, so needs a matching remote fob, and would probably need reprogramming at a dealers.
Going to get another switch and see if I can change just the switch over. But beware - a lot of parts dealers will sell you a new or S/H module, and not tell you that it is paired with the remote locking fob.
Also, take a look at the Amazon comments for that replacement loom - folk are saying that the power & ground wires are too thin, and the plugs don't fit well. Ironic that the Amazon seller is called "Allmost".
The wires have no flex. I just took out the plastic piece that holds the plug in the door. I also lengthened the wires. This allows for forward and aft movement
Thank you plenty much!! About that secondary window module. Good troubleshooting indeed 🎼✌️✊🌹
I've dealt with all this a few times on my 04 Freedom Edition. My driver rear rolls down every 2 minutes and I lose all power off and on for the last few days. Door stays (open) the the dome lights stay on all night.
I already have an extra .after switch I never used from the first time I dove into this.
This weekend I'm sure I'm going to find a few broken wires in the driver door jamb.
Dude!!!!!!!!! I have the EXACT same issue, same problems you described. I just ordered a D.S. Master. Guess I'll order the pass side switch which is the actual issue. Fun Fact: The pass side switch happens to be the Keyless Entry Module also!!!!!!!! Arrrrgggggg!!!!!!! Thanks for saving me some heart burn!!!!!!!!
I had the same exact problem a few days ago. I pulled the door boots and the wiring looked good on both sides. I ordered the drivers side switch and haven't received it yet but I just ordered the passenger side switch after watching this video. Thanks for the information.
Good Luck!
Exact same thing here. 2 days chasing continuity. Ordered DRIVER'S side module yesterday. Just watched this and now have passenger side coming. I'll replace it 1st & see!!+
Wait until the CAN wire in the drivers / passenger side door go bad. They usually don't even break, or look bad in the loom bundle, you can usually only diagnose by probing one near one end by the harness and one end near the OTHER harness under the dash and see no connection. All kinds of CAN codes, windows / locks won't work, and all of your door open / thermometer / fuel economy / service intervals will be just dashes like "- - -".
Even after you fix the wire, the modules / computer MUST be restarted by disconnecting the battery for a while or the windows / locks / ETC still won't work making you think the fix ( running a new wire for several feet ) didn't help.
The harnesses are on back order can’t find them anywhere except a junkyard lol . Good luck though.
I slamed my passenger door and my window worked again!👍🏼😊🧡
When the door wiring on these models have an issue, there are generally other electrical issues right along with it, like intermittent instrument cluster issues. Because your issue was not intermittent, and was always the same, it would cause me to suspect the switch itself.
My 04 rear passenger window goes down but not up replaced the regulator and motor no change. Switched the two rear switch no change. Got a new master no change I’m at a loss
Thank you for posting this. I also have the same issue it seems
Good Luck!
My passenger door locks with the button or phob but it doesn't not unlock with the phob or the buttons in car.
Hey all my power windows, power mirrors and locks doesn't work. The passenger door lock works.
But this happened overnight.
I have no equipment and I'm very low on money.
What should I do to fix it.
I kinda looked at the driver wires but couldn't push the rubber boot all the way back.
The passenger rubber cover between door and body is hard to get off and I'm afraid I can't get it back on if I pull it off.
I don't have wire clamps or wire stripper, basically nothing but a screwdriver.
Is it a wire, a fuse?
What do I do to fix this the cheapest way.
I can't even stand to be in the car it's so hot, the moon roof works but does nothing to reduce heat or get airflow in.
My AC sometimes shuts off the engine fan so I keep it off.
Anyone got any repairs for the #8 fuse?(rear wiper, interior lights, and rear glass release)? I'm guessing a hot wire is broken and grounded somewhere. As soon as the fuse touches the terminal it pops🤨
Podrías enseñar los colores del auto al arnés de la puerta?
why is all 4 door switches still light up and stay on even after jeeps off
I’m having a problem where I will leave my car off and come back and my driver side is open or I will be driving and the driver side will open
Can someone provide a link of where to buy the passenger side door module switch?
My left front and rear passenger door windows are zonked, also my left side electric mirror is knackered, my first thoughts are a fuse blow out, can't find out what fuse number it is 2004 jeep, any ideas? thanks
Ok so How do I disconnect the stiff metal rods between the panel and the door to get to the switch? Also how do I get the boot back on the wiring?
It won't go back on
The stiff Metal rods that you speak of, I believe you mean "Door Checks?" You shouldn't have to remove those to get at your wiring. The wiring in between the doors is a REAL PAIN...as I'm sure you're aware by now! As for getting the boot back into place, that's also a big hassle. On one of my WJ's I just completely removed the Boot and left it off, and taped the wires real well. On this car, since it was so nice, I took my time and got the Boot back on...but it's not easy. Just have to work at it and wrestle with it...about the best advice I can give you on that man. Good luck Jeep Friend.
after this could you roll down the windows on the passenger side from the driver side module?
After replacing the module on the passenger side, everything worked the way it should. Including all functionality on the Driver’s side
Do the locks work all the way around now with the new switch??? Having this same problem but my locks also do not lock unless I manually lock or unlock them...did this have the same problem and did the new switch fix this
The passenger side switch module was bad in this instance. It prevented the passenger side windows and locks to not work, along with the rear hatch. Once I put in a new switch module in the passenger side, everything worked again. >Now, one thing to keep in mind: The passenger side switch module also is the receiver for your Keyless entry system. So you would have to reprogram your key fobs to work with the new/different module. My car had an Aftermarket Viper Remote Start and Keyless entry system on it, so I didn’t need to reprogram anything, because I wasn’t using the original key fobs.
Credit due with a comment and view
Sorry for your pain, buy yourself a Chinese, but I prefer the Jeep at least I can fix it.
got the same issue but on the driver side could it also be the switch ?
Check the wiring between the Door and Body of the Vehicle first
A pretty hacky way to troubleshoot! Even though your end conclusion was correct and helpful. You can test wires without cutting and hacking into into everything. You talk with such authority like you have some type of expertise with your 99% percent has to be the broken wire in the driver's door, and take no reasonability for being impulsive. The wise man learns from the fool. Thank you
Thanks for watching, happy Jeeping!
??? switch should be like the 3rd thing to diagnose.. Fuses, wires then switch.
Exactly. I never would have thought it was the switch...but it was in this case.
Did he you get a new wiring harness , and how hard was it to repl
Replace?
@@jeffereyroderick7006 Ended up selling the car a few months later, and never got a chance to install a new harness. I soldered the wires back together and let it be...
Yeah 150 bucks for a new one too
I lost today at the same time all my power windows,radio remote control from steering wheel,high beam and fog light warning lights...Could it be BCM failure?
Whoa, that sounds a little more complex than the "normal" Power Window Issues that arise. It could very well be a bad BCM, but also could be a corroded Ground connection somewhere in that circuitry...
@@AmericanMadeClassics where is the wire usually broken or corroded?
Is it in between the door and body or in the body 😳
@@Bulletz4Breakfast13 Usually between door and body, inside of the rubber hose.
@@AmericanMadeClassics thank you, what kind of wire clamp connector do you recommend?
Should I disconnect battery when repairing(probably but just asking)
I'm not an expert with this stuff, but out if necessity have to do it myself.
What wire size would I need or just a female to female wire clamp if it's called that 😅
@@Bulletz4Breakfast13 Yes you should disconnect your battery for this type of repair. The large Orange/White wire is Hot at all times, and can short out causing a decent spark...and then of course blowing a fuse you'll then have to find and replace. As for the repair, if you want to make it LAST for a long time...Then I would recommend getting replacement Door Harnesses from Amazon, and Solder & Shrinkwrap your connections. Heatshrink Buttsplices are a good Second Choice, but normally don't last as long and can pull apart easily if not done properly. You can get replacement harnesses here through this Link on Amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08ZNKHHF3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good Luck my Friend, any other questions...Let me know.