Thanks for the video. "but I can't do any job without doing a good job". My philosophy as well - drives some other people nuts - but I totally am on the same page. Love the attitude.
I just did a single stage red and color sanding with 1000 then 1500 then color sanded 3000 and used 3m rubbing compound then then a polish it came out like a mirror now on metallic paint like I said before is when your applying the paint use 2 ball bearings in the paint cup and keep the metallic particles suspended. When I did the blue truck the metallic was uniform no heavy spots, then I did a normal cut and buff and it turned out very nice, I also did it in sections which I think helped, because I only had a small compressor that you use a nail gun with but, people were like wow that’s a nice truck but like you said single stage is different than base clear coat, but your video is very rewarding and I really appreciate you going through the steps it will help people out thank you!
This video is exactly what I needed. Every step in detail. I just painted single stage on my bronco and have tons of orange peel so I guess the process begins
Thanks. Nice to see someone like me going through the steps. You've shown me that it's a process and cutting out steps (removing the divots with 1000) causes lots of downstream work and disappointment.
Never knew that wetting the surface while using medium cut would be so much easier. My 89 Saleen Mustang is mostly still original single stage paint and this video was super helpful. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Although I’m a professional detailer of 15 years, I still learn from others. However, I hate wetting the compound as it makes such a mess and putting more compound and polish onto the pads only creates more work. I find it is less work and less cleanup to use less and repeat the step if need be. That’s just my personal preference. While the gloss is fantastic, with metallic paints , the blotchiness can’t be corrected.
Thanks for the video my paint job has alot of fisheyes. I was told to do wet sand, cut and buff then polished. Glad to see this video because i dont have any experience of polishing wise. This video will helped do mine soon!
Hey Corey, Nice job bringing that paint to as smooth as can be. What is taking away from this is not your fine sanding or compounding, it has to do with the paint itself. The metallic of the paint is not appearing to be evenly distributed. Only way to fix this is to respray it. UGH!! I know you know this and are hoping for the best. Good Video. Keep them coming. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing, very instructive video. I always struggle with single stage paint, not so much runs when you get used to it but orange peel is always a big deal. After several attemps I realized I was not using the proper reactive (fast) and moved to another reactive (slow). This dramatically reduced orange peel but occasionally I still have some. I tried using a bit more thinner (specs from paint manufacturer is 5 to 10%, i tried 15 or even 20% on very hot days). Also I'm never happy whith the paint gun settings with this type of pain, (either too dry or too much material resulting in orange peel) and can't get a proper result directly. I think I'll give up on one stage paint and move to base+clear for future projects, but since I started a full paint job with this paint I'm stuck with it for this project. Anyway cut & buff process can also be tricky and requires the proper equipements. I tried cut&buff but using a pneumatic DA for the finish cut and bufffing and never managed to get the shine completly back. I now invested in electric tools (DA + rotary sander) and proper buffing pads (and proper sanding pads, not the cheap ones) using the same buffing compounds and the result is already much better, almost good (for my standards). I need to practice more but your video confirms that I was doing it all wrong previously.
Great tips and thanks for showing the specific products and tools used! I already own that Bauer DA. I just ordered Tamco AG Series single stage paint for my project which I will be shooting in the fall. I am saving this video for future watching when I am ready to buff it out.
I just used a 4" foam roller to put on Tamco DTA epoxy primer. It came out pretty good. Will need some sanding but its sands smooth pretty easy with 220 grit. Saved me from getting overspray everywhere.
I’ve read professionals do not recommend single stage for metallic paint. Only CCOB. But you did a good job in any case. I share the same philosophy with you for always trying my best-I’m my biggest critic and will have to live with the defects.
My last cut I do with an oscillator for the swirl marks comes out awesome and then believe it or not you wash it afterwards to get the glaze off makes a big difference
Long time painter and restoration expert next time reduce your paint more and maybe turn up your gun pressure. You cant really cut and buff a metallic single. You can see it in your video pretty good which means in the sun in person you can really see it. You cut the tops of the metallics it makes the color lighter and more silver. It's fine on straight colors but not metallics or pearls although you can get away with it on pearls alot better its harder to see. My best tip for anyone spraying something like this and low experience is on the last coat mix the single 50/50 with clear this gives you a translucent layer you can fix things in. Your still limited on what you can fix but it's better. Personally if this happens to me I let it sit for a few days buzz it down with 1000 and spray a quick one coat.
I understand what you are saying, the paint does have a bit more silver color to it but it does look way better even in the sun than it did. I definitely should have reduced it a lot further though.
@Surethang1 You could but it’s super risky. You risk breaking through the paint or clear very easily with a DA. A block by hand is used to get a very flat surface and allows you the control to remove only the necessary amount of material while avoiding areas like edges.
By doing this you're going to disturb the metallic horribly. When you see it in the right light it's going to ruin your day ! ! ! You can do this on some of the very basic solid colors, but keep in mind that you can disturb the pigment on some solid colors. Disturbing the pigment usually isn't nearly as bad as disturbing the metallic. Use clearcoat and cut and buff that. Do it before the clear gets too hard, and it won't be near as a difficult. If you cut and buff color you're going to plug up your sandpaper and your buffing pads, not fun! Hope this helps, I painted cars for 20 years.
I'm sub 996 - You do great work, remember to not let the trolls get to you! They are everywhere on the interwebs! That turned out awesome and I saved this video for future reference. Thanks brother!
Thanks for the info. Not a hater, just curious. Is the patchy color just metal flake that did not lay down the same or did sanding a metallic paint create a problem?
I may have overlooked it, but what type of single stage paint did you use? Urethane? Lost my garage space and can't clear coat so I searched and am hoping to do what you have done to my paint job. Thanks!
I'm from Australia, and I was wondering, is there no re-enforcement braces under the bonnet of those trucks? I cringed every time it popped and buckled under the low pressure of the buff, and hand sanding. I thought it was going to buckle the bonnet.
Came out great, but thru the video the blue lost some of its richness, i could be wrong n it looks dif in person? thats a problem i have right now choosing a blue cause they look dif after finished polish
You are correct, it did lose some of it richness. It was a worth while trade off for me but ideally you wouldn’t need to do this if you sprayed it a lot better than I did.
I would advise anybody to not color wet sanding a single stage metallic paint! Why you ask! Because when you paint a metallic single stage paint, on the last coat you have to fog the paint as you go to keep the metallics from uniform a d not blotchy looking, wet sanding will ta,e that layer off and it will get a zebra look to it. And at the beginning of video he showed a run that will end up being heavy dark metallic run even though the run itself is gone. Now if you sprayed it with a single stage solid color no metallic you can do the wet sand with no problem as long as you have enough paint on said job.
If you wetsand the whole car, and either polish or clear coat the paint will be fine. The run can be fixed also by sanding the panel down and run down and simple respray.
I know this is an old video, but hope you may respond. What wax or paint protection did you apply to this fresh polish job after you were done? I have an 89 mustang that has been repainted about 10 years ago, have cut and polished twice now but the paint returns to an oxidized look after about 6 months on the hood, roof and trunk, even when garage kept. Looking for the right dressing to use on my car after the next polish to prevent the oxidation from happening.
Honestly it’s probably time for new paint. That said knowing how expensive that can be I once read about a spray on fix for tractors. I am sorry I can’t recall the paint restoration name. This is a common problem in old tractor paint because they don’t put in uv protection. In the price of a paint job a really good paint is a small part of the bill. I like ppg. I have had good luck in the past with Martin Senior. Now if you have ever seen a used car lot clear over oxidized paint it will last longer than your buff did but it looks bad when it lifts off. Hope that helps. It’s really time for new paint when oxidation starts
@@joecliffordson thanks for your reply. my parents were the ones who had it painted, and had a local "budget" guy to do the job. I'm sure it was not a quality paint that was applied and I know for sure it was a single stage paint. I've seriously considered trying to do a repaint paint myself. I'm a pretty handy guy around the shop and thing I could at least do better than the last guy. "Don't be scared of it, it's just paint" right??
@ I remember my old paint books from the 80s said it’s all in the details. UA-cam wasn’t around when I started. I finally hired a guy to show me the trade in my shop. Non the less starting on a junker should cover the cost of education. If your skin is thick you could even take your licks on UA-cam. A lot of the experience is patterns of shooting and habits of keeping your paint flowing. While avoiding overspray. Base clear is much more forgiving because your clear is dust free in 15 minutes if you don’t have a booth. Proper sanding and primer techniques are the main time consuming activity. It’s not just paint it is huge chunks of time too. That’s why my stuff is all dull and old and my customers are shiny.
Hey I took a lot of tips from this video as I’m working on single stage. My question is between sanding there is always a mess, besides hosing the car off every time and pushing it out of the garage what do you recommend? I’ve been using glass cleaner and a Microfiber
Hey great video I have been doing the same steps on my new paint job black single stage. I just finished the first buff and moved on to the fine cut with the same polish pad. It seems to shine better before that step? Did I do something wrong? Thanks
I’ve noticed the same thing. I think the heavy cut with the wool pad does a little better job of melting the finish, creating that super high gloss. But it will leave behind hologram looking swirl marks, that is what the next steps remove. In my experience the first buff is super glossy, the next buff isn’t as glossy but more even and then the third polish/buff brings back a lot of gloss. Hope this helps.
Great video. Very informative but I have a few questions 1. How many coats of single stage did you apply? 2. Did doing this have a negative effect on the lifespan of the paint?
I just did a single stage and it came out very bumpy looks terrible. I don't know if the problem was my spray gun or what was it. Do you think it can be fix by doing this? 🤔
Is it a metallic paint or solid? If solid color this will definitely fix it. If metallic this process will make it smooth but the color may change and get blotchy from sanding into the metallic. Mine came out ok but it’s not perfect.
It's metallic.. Same happened with 2 stage. I think there's a problem with my gun or the air pressure.. Sad to do so much work to have terrible results
How many coats of paint did you do? I just shot my car in TCP Global single stage metallic and have some cutting and buffing to do on it. Worried about going through since it's too cold to repaint the car until spring. Thanks! Great video.
The color changes slightly and you need to sand down enough to flatten the paint completely so the entire surface gets sanded so it looks even. It may not be perfect but it’s much better than before.
One thing you did wrong on the single stage was not mist a light spray at the end so all the metalics in the paint matched in a uniform pattern it's very blotchy but it's still a good job for a first try better then I'd do probably but I'm just speaking from what I seen painters do in my uncles shop I grew around a body shop know how to do it and all just don't do it enough 😂 lol I like playing with engines more but anyways had you tried to mist a very light spray over last coat to create a uniform pattern at the end of the paint job this paint job would of been a little more clean this is critical step for single stage metalic paints only but that's how you learn by trying new stuff good job over all👍
I just tried that and it made the paint dry grainy now I need to wet sand and it’s single stage metallic and people say you shouldn’t sand single stage metallic. I dusted it to help with mottling.
Talk to me about perfection 🙂 I have done a really hard DIY spot paint repair, a 3"X3" spot in the middle of a large panel so you have to blend all around (first time doing it). On daylight, it looks perfect, but at night with a flashlight I can see all my (many) mistakes and now I wonder should I redo it? I know in my mind that it will be a mistake but the perfection devil don't want to leave me a lone 🙂
Same thing with me, but It was entirely my fault for being lazy. I didn't buy any sort of fans for ventilation so the first few panels I sprayed as I was spraying the car would wet out decently then by the end of the car all of the dry spray in the air would be falling into the paint and making it even more dull. The car's got a nice texture at least haha
Burnout Blue tcpglobal.com/products/rsp-ub2520-kit-q?currency=USD&gclid=Cj0KCQiA1NebBhDDARIsAANiDD3nGMRmj5jWcPsF36HCDkcmRl6sQK3McVLOrmOlMilLCqYPBteA1TEaAsk8EALw_wcB
question. what's a good method for cutting and buffing in tight areas where a buffer can't go? What would I use in regards to substitution for the wool pad, medium cut pad and the black pad, if doing this by hand. Thanks!
Generally you wouldn’t cut and buff tight areas because you want see it as much. But otherwise you can do the same process by hand with a microfiber cloth.
I would let that orange peel go, Its no worse than factory paint, plus it seems to me on single stage paint, the paint is tougher with orange peel before start sanding on it.
alot of orange peel on my 63 impala . I'm guessing it's single stage paint ? it's a 20 yr old paint job . what should I do to get rid of the orange peel and bring out shine . I have an orbital sander . haven't used it yet though . maybe a wet sand ? or cut/ compound ?
You might want to try buffing it first with a wool pad and compound. Speed is a good question and I get asked that frequently, I honestly have no idea, I just have a feel for what is too fast or slow based on how it’s sanding I guess.
Great video... just laid down single silver with flake, looks okay, but didnt wet out like I would have liked. Going to do this and hopefully get some shine. Have you done the 1000 wet on the DA? lowest speed?
I have done 1000 dry at high speed and it worked out great. I’m not sure if the silver flake will cause any problems. Because my paint is metallic the color does change slightly from sanding, becoming a bit more silver but it looks way better than the orange peel.
Dang hope you didn't try cutting and buffing single stage metallic paint,it will scratch the metallic making it look shitty,only works for single stage paint with no metallic.
Nope, you definitely can. The metallic is all the way through the paint. This has 3 heavy coats on it. I didn’t do a great job on the spraying so it was a little blotchy or the hood before I started sanding, it may be a little more blotchy now but it’s hard to tell.
The best way to do single stage paint is to do light consist coats that way it stays wet you can keep your metallic flake from sagging and alot of the orange peel will go away
I can’t remember for sure but I think I was using a 1.5 tip. I couldn’t put on light coats or it would be super rough. Definitely could have thinned it more.
About to do the same on my Bugeye Sprite project. This has been very helpful. It was my first time painting a car I used a single stage sold color so I don't have the flake to contend with. Thanks.
I know this is a year old… but as someone already said, buffing single stage metallic disturbs the metallic. You may get “shine” but if you’re working on something other than a work truck, you need to use BC CC. Newbies will have find bccc will produce better results.
You are complicating things too much, after sanding go with a micro fibre pad on a DA with some coarse compound, than use an all in one finish compound on soft pad. You can try out the rupes line, coarse and then uno protect on a medium wool pad
First time painting car single stage paint massive metalics first time didn't like results. I learned must spray as wet as you can then that's your look.i tried fixing first time with cutting and buffing. It was a nightmare I lost 500 bucks worth of paint.redid it wet,wet wet.and it looks great now couple small runs but for not a professional looks pretty dam good.i don't think single stage paint likes cutting and buffing in my opinion!!!
I love your approach to not being perfect. I have an old truck too and I’m trying to do the best I can.
Thanks for the video. "but I can't do any job without doing a good job". My philosophy as well - drives some other people nuts - but I totally am on the same page. Love the attitude.
Thanks!
I'm told I'm "anal". I call it being methodical.
Actually, perfection is an illusion, what we seek is excellence. Nice job explaining.
Great video! Im planning on using single stage and your video convicted me to try it out!
man i watched this from start to finish....thank u soo much, i now have added confidence...came out perfect enough for me...👍🏾👍🏾
I just did a single stage red and color sanding with 1000 then 1500 then color sanded 3000 and used 3m rubbing compound then then a polish it came out like a mirror now on metallic paint like I said before is when your applying the paint use 2 ball bearings in the paint cup and keep the metallic particles suspended. When I did the blue truck the metallic was uniform no heavy spots, then I did a normal cut and buff and it turned out very nice, I also did it in sections which I think helped, because I only had a small compressor that you use a nail gun with but, people were like wow that’s a nice truck but like you said single stage is different than base clear coat, but your video is very rewarding and I really appreciate you going through the steps it will help people out thank you!
That’s awesome you pulled off a nice job with limited equipment!
This video is exactly what I needed. Every step in detail. I just painted single stage on my bronco and have tons of orange peel so I guess the process begins
Glad you enjoyed the video, good luck!
Great tutorial. I was looking specifically for a cut, buff and polish on a single stage paint. Thank you!
Thanks, hope it helped.
Looks mint! Well done!
Awesome video! Very informative, thank you!!
This is a great video man
Thank you!
Thanks. Nice to see someone like me going through the steps. You've shown me that it's a process and cutting out steps (removing the divots with 1000) causes lots of downstream work and disappointment.
It’s like anything, follow the process and get expected results.
Witch grit is preferred.
This is a great video for my needs of my particular painting problem!
Thank you for this Video!
Awesome, you are welcome!
this is a great video thanks man
Thank you!
Never knew that wetting the surface while using medium cut would be so much easier. My 89 Saleen Mustang is mostly still original single stage paint and this video was super helpful. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Glad you found the video helpful!
Although I’m a professional detailer of 15 years, I still learn from others. However, I hate wetting the compound as it makes such a mess and putting more compound and polish onto the pads only creates more work. I find it is less work and less cleanup to use less and repeat the step if need be. That’s just my personal preference. While the gloss is fantastic, with metallic paints , the blotchiness can’t be corrected.
Thanks for the video my paint job has alot of fisheyes. I was told to do wet sand, cut and buff then polished. Glad to see this video because i dont have any experience of polishing wise. This video will helped do mine soon!
I love the color!
Thank you, me too.
Hey Corey, Nice job bringing that paint to as smooth as can be. What is taking away from this is not your fine sanding or compounding, it has to do with the paint itself. The metallic of the paint is not appearing to be evenly distributed. Only way to fix this is to respray it. UGH!! I know you know this and are hoping for the best. Good Video. Keep them coming. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing, very instructive video.
I always struggle with single stage paint, not so much runs when you get used to it but orange peel is always a big deal. After several attemps I realized I was not using the proper reactive (fast) and moved to another reactive (slow). This dramatically reduced orange peel but occasionally I still have some. I tried using a bit more thinner (specs from paint manufacturer is 5 to 10%, i tried 15 or even 20% on very hot days). Also I'm never happy whith the paint gun settings with this type of pain, (either too dry or too much material resulting in orange peel) and can't get a proper result directly. I think I'll give up on one stage paint and move to base+clear for future projects, but since I started a full paint job with this paint I'm stuck with it for this project.
Anyway cut & buff process can also be tricky and requires the proper equipements. I tried cut&buff but using a pneumatic DA for the finish cut and bufffing and never managed to get the shine completly back.
I now invested in electric tools (DA + rotary sander) and proper buffing pads (and proper sanding pads, not the cheap ones) using the same buffing compounds and the result is already much better, almost good (for my standards). I need to practice more but your video confirms that I was doing it all wrong previously.
Thank you, and thanks for sharing all of that information!
thanks bro, I actually done this few days ago and burned my bare paint xD then i repainted again but now I know what imma do next thanks to you
Sorry to hear you burned it, but like you said no you know!
Great tips and thanks for showing the specific products and tools used! I already own that Bauer DA. I just ordered Tamco AG Series single stage paint for my project which I will be shooting in the fall. I am saving this video for future watching when I am ready to buff it out.
Thank you, let me know how it works out for you!
I just used a 4" foam roller to put on Tamco DTA epoxy primer. It came out pretty good. Will need some sanding but its sands smooth pretty easy with 220 grit. Saved me from getting overspray everywhere.
thanks very nice video going to one stage my truck now I have a good idea when it comes to the polishing process.👍
This is exactly what i needed, im planning on single stage painting my limo this summer and needed this step by step
I’ve read professionals do not recommend single stage for metallic paint. Only CCOB. But you did a good job in any case. I share the same philosophy with you for always trying my best-I’m my biggest critic and will have to live with the defects.
Never cut and buff SS metallics. His hood is ruined
Hey!, very well done good video ,keep up the good work
Thank you!
nice work. Looks really really nice.
Thank you!
Great vid. I enjoyed
Thank you
My last cut I do with an oscillator for the swirl marks comes out awesome and then believe it or not you wash it afterwards to get the glaze off makes a big difference
Thanks for the tips.
Will be doing the same in the neat future.
Good luck!
Long time painter and restoration expert next time reduce your paint more and maybe turn up your gun pressure. You cant really cut and buff a metallic single. You can see it in your video pretty good which means in the sun in person you can really see it. You cut the tops of the metallics it makes the color lighter and more silver. It's fine on straight colors but not metallics or pearls although you can get away with it on pearls alot better its harder to see. My best tip for anyone spraying something like this and low experience is on the last coat mix the single 50/50 with clear this gives you a translucent layer you can fix things in. Your still limited on what you can fix but it's better. Personally if this happens to me I let it sit for a few days buzz it down with 1000 and spray a quick one coat.
I understand what you are saying, the paint does have a bit more silver color to it but it does look way better even in the sun than it did. I definitely should have reduced it a lot further though.
@@coreysgarage6389 atta boy came out great in the end for a learning experience. Enjoy the truck and keep up the content.
You said the same thing I was thinking
Do you have to sand polish after 1000 and wet coat you mentioned .
Great video! Thank you for sharing !
Thank you!
Can i use 1000 grit with the DA? Why do you sand it by hand. Thanks
@Surethang1 You could but it’s super risky. You risk breaking through the paint or clear very easily with a DA. A block by hand is used to get a very flat surface and allows you the control to remove only the necessary amount of material while avoiding areas like edges.
By doing this you're going to disturb the metallic horribly. When you see it in the right light it's going to ruin your day ! ! ! You can do this on some of the very basic solid colors, but keep in mind that you can disturb the pigment on some solid colors. Disturbing the pigment usually isn't nearly as bad as disturbing the metallic. Use clearcoat and cut and buff that. Do it before the clear gets too hard, and it won't be near as a difficult. If you cut and buff color you're going to plug up your sandpaper and your buffing pads, not fun! Hope this helps, I painted cars for 20 years.
He already did. Look how blotchy that side of the hood was after he polished it. You can cut and buff single stage just fine, but not metallics
Looking good👍
Oh I am also learning a lot. I will follow your videos.
Thank you!
How to you get polish n compound off your trim n rubber?
Wax & grease remover
I'm sub 996 - You do great work, remember to not let the trolls get to you! They are everywhere on the interwebs! That turned out awesome and I saved this video for future reference. Thanks brother!
Thanks man, I appreciate it. Thanks for subscribing!
Thanks for the info. Not a hater, just curious. Is the patchy color just metal flake that did not lay down the same or did sanding a metallic paint create a problem?
I may have overlooked it, but what type of single stage paint did you use? Urethane? Lost my garage space and can't clear coat so I searched and am hoping to do what you have done to my paint job. Thanks!
Yes it’s urethane.
I'm from Australia, and I was wondering, is there no re-enforcement braces under the bonnet of those trucks? I cringed every time it popped and buckled under the low pressure of the buff, and hand sanding. I thought it was going to buckle the bonnet.
Same paint i bought, burnout blue eastwood paints.. i got the metalic enhancer or whatever it is, hope i can keep that peel down 😳
Came out great, but thru the video the blue lost some of its richness, i could be wrong n it looks dif in person? thats a problem i have right now choosing a blue cause they look dif after finished polish
You are correct, it did lose some of it richness. It was a worth while trade off for me but ideally you wouldn’t need to do this if you sprayed it a lot better than I did.
I would advise anybody to not color wet sanding a single stage metallic paint! Why you ask! Because when you paint a metallic single stage paint, on the last coat you have to fog the paint as you go to keep the metallics from uniform a d not blotchy looking, wet sanding will ta,e that layer off and it will get a zebra look to it. And at the beginning of video he showed a run that will end up being heavy dark metallic run even though the run itself is gone. Now if you sprayed it with a single stage solid color no metallic you can do the wet sand with no problem as long as you have enough paint on said job.
What should i do if theres dust on single stage solid black paint?? Please give me advice…should i wet sand and polish or do a 2nd coat??
Buff it
If you wetsand the whole car, and either polish or clear coat the paint will be fine. The run can be fixed also by sanding the panel down and run down and simple respray.
@@NoPo101Wetsand it with ultra fine paper and then buff and polish.
He actually says the same thing at the end of the video.
I know this is an old video, but hope you may respond. What wax or paint protection did you apply to this fresh polish job after you were done?
I have an 89 mustang that has been repainted about 10 years ago, have cut and polished twice now but the paint returns to an oxidized look after about 6 months on the hood, roof and trunk, even when garage kept. Looking for the right dressing to use on my car after the next polish to prevent the oxidation from happening.
Honestly it’s probably time for new paint. That said knowing how expensive that can be I once read about a spray on fix for tractors. I am sorry I can’t recall the paint restoration name. This is a common problem in old tractor paint because they don’t put in uv protection. In the price of a paint job a really good paint is a small part of the bill. I like ppg. I have had good luck in the past with Martin Senior. Now if you have ever seen a used car lot clear over oxidized paint it will last longer than your buff did but it looks bad when it lifts off. Hope that helps. It’s really time for new paint when oxidation starts
@@joecliffordson thanks for your reply. my parents were the ones who had it painted, and had a local "budget" guy to do the job. I'm sure it was not a quality paint that was applied and I know for sure it was a single stage paint. I've seriously considered trying to do a repaint paint myself. I'm a pretty handy guy around the shop and thing I could at least do better than the last guy. "Don't be scared of it, it's just paint" right??
@ I remember my old paint books from the 80s said it’s all in the details. UA-cam wasn’t around when I started. I finally hired a guy to show me the trade in my shop. Non the less starting on a junker should cover the cost of education. If your skin is thick you could even take your licks on UA-cam. A lot of the experience is patterns of shooting and habits of keeping your paint flowing. While avoiding overspray. Base clear is much more forgiving because your clear is dust free in 15 minutes if you don’t have a booth. Proper sanding and primer techniques are the main time consuming activity. It’s not just paint it is huge chunks of time too. That’s why my stuff is all dull and old and my customers are shiny.
Nice video
I’d like to know exactly what are the last two pads and polishes please
Great job! Is this a solid blue color?
No it’s very metallic
Hey I took a lot of tips from this video as I’m working on single stage. My question is between sanding there is always a mess, besides hosing the car off every time and pushing it out of the garage what do you recommend? I’ve been using glass cleaner and a
Microfiber
Unfortunately I recommend doing exactly what you are doing.
Hey great video I have been doing the same steps on my new paint job black single stage. I just finished the first buff and moved on to the fine cut with the same polish pad. It seems to shine better before that step? Did I do something wrong? Thanks
I’ve noticed the same thing. I think the heavy cut with the wool pad does a little better job of melting the finish, creating that super high gloss. But it will leave behind hologram looking swirl marks, that is what the next steps remove. In my experience the first buff is super glossy, the next buff isn’t as glossy but more even and then the third polish/buff brings back a lot of gloss. Hope this helps.
@@coreysgarage6389 Thanks for the reply! Are you referring to the swirl remover as the 3rd buff?
Great video. Very informative but I have a few questions 1. How many coats of single stage did you apply? 2. Did doing this have a negative effect on the lifespan of the paint?
Instilled some UA-cam courage in me with this video.
Why is the pad blue? Isn’t that paining and you only want to treat clear coat?
@@2old4Thiz It’s single stage paint.
I just did a single stage and it came out very bumpy looks terrible. I don't know if the problem was my spray gun or what was it. Do you think it can be fix by doing this? 🤔
Is it a metallic paint or solid? If solid color this will definitely fix it. If metallic this process will make it smooth but the color may change and get blotchy from sanding into the metallic. Mine came out ok but it’s not perfect.
It's metallic.. Same happened with 2 stage. I think there's a problem with my gun or the air pressure.. Sad to do so much work to have terrible results
i like to sand it down and clear it.
Was actually thinking about this! Do you have to do anything to bring out the shine before clearing it? Thanks!
That absolutely defeats the purpose of a single stage paint.
@@callmesomething1425🤡
that was metallic single stage ?
Seems like when you used the DA You had it stalled the whole time? To much pressure. Correct me if I wrong.
@@badass1g no not too much pressure, that’s just the compound working and having the speed a little low. I apply almost no pressure at all.
How many coats of paint did you do? I just shot my car in TCP Global single stage metallic and have some cutting and buffing to do on it. Worried about going through since it's too cold to repaint the car until spring. Thanks! Great video.
I did 3 coats and they were all pretty heavy as I was trying to get it to lay down.
Did you figure it out? I just painted my car with the same paint and now it's time to cut n buff
I've heard everyone saying you can't cut/sand/buff single stage metallic.. but this looks great. what gives?
The color changes slightly and you need to sand down enough to flatten the paint completely so the entire surface gets sanded so it looks even. It may not be perfect but it’s much better than before.
You still can sand it and clear it
So this is a mettalic paint job correct?
Yes it is
One thing you did wrong on the single stage was not mist a light spray at the end so all the metalics in the paint matched in a uniform pattern it's very blotchy but it's still a good job for a first try better then I'd do probably but I'm just speaking from what I seen painters do in my uncles shop I grew around a body shop know how to do it and all just don't do it enough 😂 lol I like playing with engines more but anyways had you tried to mist a very light spray over last coat to create a uniform pattern at the end of the paint job this paint job would of been a little more clean this is critical step for single stage metalic paints only but that's how you learn by trying new stuff good job over all👍
I just tried that and it made the paint dry grainy now I need to wet sand and it’s single stage metallic and people say you shouldn’t sand single stage metallic. I dusted it to help with mottling.
This is awesome, you can always clear over single stage so you can get past the imperfections and cut and buff without worry.
Thanks, yeah I was just doing a cheap paint job so I didn’t want to use clear.
Can I clear cured single stage ?
@JR Dominguez I always do. Just scuff it and spray her. Do any corrections to the paint before clear.
Talk to me about perfection 🙂 I have done a really hard DIY spot paint repair, a 3"X3" spot in the middle of a large panel so you have to blend all around (first time doing it). On daylight, it looks perfect, but at night with a flashlight I can see all my (many) mistakes and now I wonder should I redo it? I know in my mind that it will be a mistake but the perfection devil don't want to leave me a lone 🙂
The perfection devil is real!!!!!
Every panel I did has orange peel. First time painting a car...... Going to try and wet and the whole car this weekend
Good luck, let me know how it goes. A good cut and buff job can make an ok paint job look incredible.
@@coreysgarage6389 so far it's looking much better. I can actually see my reflection in it now😅😅
@@beanz1540 That’s awesome!
Same thing with me, but It was entirely my fault for being lazy. I didn't buy any sort of fans for ventilation so the first few panels I sprayed as I was spraying the car would wet out decently then by the end of the car all of the dry spray in the air would be falling into the paint and making it even more dull. The car's got a nice texture at least haha
Cut n buff on single stage isn't that tough to do you just need to make sure you have the paint layers thick enough to hold up to sanding.
What exactly kinda paint is that blue? What (Brand) and where can I buy it from. I like that color
Burnout Blue tcpglobal.com/products/rsp-ub2520-kit-q?currency=USD&gclid=Cj0KCQiA1NebBhDDARIsAANiDD3nGMRmj5jWcPsF36HCDkcmRl6sQK3McVLOrmOlMilLCqYPBteA1TEaAsk8EALw_wcB
Curious...what do you think you're removing from the upper 1-3 mils of the dry paint film when you sand and and then buff a single stage coating?
Just single stage paint… the purpose is to remove the orange peel.
question. what's a good method for cutting and buffing in tight areas where a buffer can't go? What would I use in regards to substitution for the wool pad, medium cut pad and the black pad, if doing this by hand. Thanks!
Generally you wouldn’t cut and buff tight areas because you want see it as much. But otherwise you can do the same process by hand with a microfiber cloth.
How long does single stage paint last outside?
Till.its gone..😂
great vids, how long after painting single stage should I wait to sand?
A couple days will be fine, I waited a year and the paint is nearly too hard.
ALOT OF WORK BUT CAME OUT GREAT
@@sbuzz5889 Thank you
How much paint did it take total to cover
God bless you
I always paint with single stage at house cause its cheap, then i also clear coat as well and its like double protection
It’s a lot better than most
Thank you!
Can you provide a link to the 3m pad you are using for 3k grit?
never mind i found em
I would let that orange peel go, Its no worse than factory paint, plus it seems to me on single stage paint, the paint is tougher with orange peel before start sanding on it.
alot of orange peel on my 63 impala . I'm guessing it's single stage paint ? it's a 20 yr old paint job . what should I do to get rid of the orange peel and bring out shine . I have an orbital sander . haven't used it yet though . maybe a wet sand ? or cut/ compound ?
also have the same DA as you . from harbor freight .but mine has different speed settings . what speed should I use
You might want to try buffing it first with a wool pad and compound. Speed is a good question and I get asked that frequently, I honestly have no idea, I just have a feel for what is too fast or slow based on how it’s sanding I guess.
@@coreysgarage6389 oh okay soo don't just start out wet sanding and do the steps u did ?
@@coreysgarage6389 use a whool pad by hand with a compound?
@@coreysgarage6389 where do you get the sanding blocks from?
Great video... just laid down single silver with flake, looks okay, but didnt wet out like I would have liked. Going to do this and hopefully get some shine. Have you done the 1000 wet on the DA? lowest speed?
I have done 1000 dry at high speed and it worked out great. I’m not sure if the silver flake will cause any problems. Because my paint is metallic the color does change slightly from sanding, becoming a bit more silver but it looks way better than the orange peel.
Dang hope you didn't try cutting and buffing single stage metallic paint,it will scratch the metallic making it look shitty,only works for single stage paint with no metallic.
Always thought you couldn't color sand on metallics because of sanding through the metallics
Nope, you definitely can. The metallic is all the way through the paint. This has 3 heavy coats on it. I didn’t do a great job on the spraying so it was a little blotchy or the hood before I started sanding, it may be a little more blotchy now but it’s hard to tell.
@@coreysgarage6389 looks like you did a good job to me thanks for the reply
Need to put spacers in between hood supports. Easy fix .
Correct
The best way to do single stage paint is to do light consist coats that way it stays wet you can keep your metallic flake from sagging and alot of the orange peel will go away
Good to know. I was spraying a mettallic single stage wet and the metallic all run down
Is that metallic paint
Very
Have you ever applied clear over a single stage paint? Also, do you have a preferred brand?
Mix with slow reducer,spray light coats thru 1.2 spray tip,,,
I can’t remember for sure but I think I was using a 1.5 tip. I couldn’t put on light coats or it would be super rough. Definitely could have thinned it more.
About to do the same on my Bugeye Sprite project. This has been very helpful. It was my first time painting a car I used a single stage sold color so I don't have the flake to contend with. Thanks.
I dnt think u should buff or polish flat.. that's why u hear that thumping noise. I was brought up using the pads more on the edge...my opnion
yea i cant tell from the camera it just looks like a lighter shade of blue
I know this is a year old… but as someone already said, buffing single stage metallic disturbs the metallic. You may get “shine” but if you’re working on something other than a work truck, you need to use BC CC. Newbies will have find bccc will produce better results.
my first time repainting a car with single stage want to learn about it
Hopefully you can learn from my mistakes
30:29 great information!
Thank you
Use more reducer in your paint to get less orange peel
Can you cut and buff single stage metallic some say yes some say no because of destroying the metallics
Some say no but I clearly did in this video.
MN n
M
NM n
That’s why I rub it out by hand. I hate buffers. You can achieve great results with elbow grease
That would be an incredible amount of work.
@@coreysgarage6389 💀
Good luck with elbow grease 😅
@@cartradediary6131 BE A DAMN MAN
@@Igotyoutriggered no probs but I also like to be efficient
Polish a run on metallic and you will get a shear line.
Yeah it will still show, not as badly but definitely will still be there.
@@coreysgarage6389 That is why I posted it lol
And spraying single stage metallic it's good idea to mist it on into a wet
Coat my first metallic single stage was a nightmare lol
If it is Burnout Blue you likely got it from TCP Global
I did
You are complicating things too much, after sanding go with a micro fibre pad on a DA with some coarse compound, than use an all in one finish compound on soft pad. You can try out the rupes line, coarse and then uno protect on a medium wool pad
Never heard of the rupes line.
@@coreysgarage6389 you should give the a try, they well worth it
ALWAYS SPRAY WITH HIGHER PRESSURE THEN WHAT THEY SAY REDUCE YOUR PAINT AND SPRAY A LIGHT COAT WAIT FOR IT TI FLASH THEEN PUT ON 2 OTHER COATS
it has lite places in it
First time painting car single stage paint massive metalics first time didn't like results. I learned must spray as wet as you can then that's your look.i tried fixing first time with cutting and buffing. It was a nightmare I lost 500 bucks worth of paint.redid it wet,wet wet.and it looks great now couple small runs but for not a professional looks pretty dam good.i don't think single stage paint likes cutting and buffing in my opinion!!!
This came out pretty good after the cut and buff. But it was a pain to get it to lay down, I should have reduced it further.
still looked hazy.
A little but way better than orange peel.