Grounding and Bonding an Electrical Panel
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- Опубліковано 14 лип 2021
- This video will show you how to drive grounding rods, run grounding wire to them and into the electrical panel, and how to bond the panel. Driving the grounding rods with a demo hammer makes quick work of sinking them into the ground without having to sledge them in. I use #4 AWG solid copper wire for the grounding wire.
Ground rod Demo hammer Bit: amzn.to/3e59XZS
Ground Rod Clamp: amzn.to/3e8JY3S - Навчання та стиль
My goodness thank you alot man. My home is a old home and it doesn't have a ground wire, and i been trying to figure out how to get ground for like 10 years already and now i know how. Thank you soooooo much from the bottom of my heart
Great video. My Dad was an electrician, My Uncle was an electrician, My Cousin was an electrician, My Cousins son is an electrician. However, I am a Math Teacher. After watching this video, I decided I will hire an electrician. I don't have the tools and I don't feel comfortable touching the box. It is important to know your limitations. I have a healthy respect for electricity.
Why would you hire an Electrician when everyone in your family is in the trade ?
@@joew4202 My dad, my uncle, and my cousin have passed away. My cousins son lives too far away.
@@SteveCohenPhilly sorry to hear that.
So straight forward, so thorough, so clear. Thank you for taking the time to make this video and explain the process.
Thanks
Thanks for keeping it short and on point. Very helpful.
this is so informative for me as i am a electrical distributor trainee. i have been learning so much but the way youre showing everything and taking your time is definitely helpful
You can secure the LB 90 by using conduit on the inside and a conduit locknut.
For everyone out there stating this guy is doing it wrong are forgetting one critical detail. The NEC is not an actual nationwide code, it is more a national guideline that each state and even county can adopt and amend as they see fit. Every state has different climates and soil content. For instance in Seattle, they require 2 rods at least 8 feet apart, In some areas, the granite layer can be shallow and you can bury the 8 foot rod 30" deep. Some areas would be fine with the clamp he used. My point is be sure to check your local codes for what applies to you.
Thanks for the input!
National electrical code... Means national. Lol. It's the law.
@@CybekCusal Incorrect. "National" is the name of the code, but it's not a federal regulation or law in origin. The only thing that makes the NEC a required code is that state/local authorities adopt it is as their electrical code. Beside adoption as a code, the NEC itself has no authority and is not in any way a law or regulation. While most places in the US follow the NEC, some choose not to.
The National Electrical code doesn't mean anything if your municipality hasn't adopted it. Some states are one code cycle in arrears so it gives them time to read and digest the latest issue of the code. They always will be 1 cycle in arrears but with 3 years to study up they will be well informed and prepared for the next issue. Usually the state legislature takes a few minutes to adopt the code or make exceptions. In my state they wouldn't adopt the use of arc fault breakers. Too much nuisance tripping.
@@johndavies2949 What state waives the AFCI breaker requirement?
Hey thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I learned a lot from them. As a senior electrical engineering student and watching these videos, I do feel more confident in attempting this kind of electrical work.
Thank you!
Well if you’re a senior engineering student, I’d highly advise you not to watch this guy. Nothing he is doing is to code. Leading you down the wrong road
❤❤❤You did it❤❤❤ you fully described the
Green Bonding Screw .
i put a basic socket wrench to it,
and tightened it down .
the inside ground is now the same as neutral
and to the Ground Rod . Neutral to Gnd is 0 volts.
Hot to Gnd is now the same as Hot to Neutral .
the installers messed up .
last year is was 2.5 volts ,
recently it had increased to 6 volts .
now it is 0 volts as it should be .❤❤❤
You are an excellent teacher done ✅ naturally a well grounded man. The best. Thanks God bless
Jesus Christ, I had to watch 10 videos to find this one that was straight forward. Thank you.
haha, Thanks!
Same here!
Thank you for the video Sir! I learned a lot from you. And a lot from the comments. I'm planning a DIY upgrade of an old 1964 14 space panel that is over full, to this panel soon. Hopefully I'll get it right. Next I need to read up on ACFI/GCFI breakers.
Word of advice don’t follow this guy, he’s not doing any of the electrical work to code. Follow someone on UA-cam that is the actual electrician
Thank you for being so informative. Very helpful.
Thank you!
Wow. You can sling that sledgehammer super fast!
It was informative and helpful.
Thank you for posting the video.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you mha man for videos got yourself a new subscriber
Thanks!
Thanks for the information. I'm getting ready to do this on a garage I'm tightening up. I told the customer they will have to get someone to do the electric run. The plastic box just drill a hole through it to screw it to the garage. I'm surprised knowone said you can connect the grounding rod with duct tape. I like the way you did it.
Thanks
Good video! Thank you!
excellent explanation. Thanks
Thank you
great video. As far as attaching the LB to the house, I believe the correct way to attach it is to continue the conduit on the inside of the building so that the LB doesn't have to actually attach to the house and you can just seal up the hole with silicone. That being said, you could just put a conduit strap on the 90 pretty close to the box. once the parts are glued together it should be a pretty tight connection. You could also just use a surface mount box instead of the LB.
Thanks for the video 😊 recommendation for attachment add and MPT nipple to inside thread of box and use a threaded coupler inside house to secure down and maybe just some rubber sheet or washer for any innacurancy or slop. Just an idea and it would be super clean and no extra holes from screws or nails. But thats above and beyond. 🤷 once again thanks for the video.
Great video, thank you Sir.
Thanks
As the LB goes into the wallbefore any wire is run, install either 1/2 or 3/4 inch gray PVC glued into the LB. long enough inside the building where you can cut the PVC just long enough to glue a elbow or male or female adapter onto the pipe. Great video.
Good job! Thank you. 🙏
The work he put in this. I pushed mine in. And had to hammer the rest in. Almost in the ground. So close to getting electricity into my shed to home conversion. If I can have light in there I can work on it nightly and get shit done quickly
Best to wait till it rains hard or thunderstorms. That what my wife suggested to do and it made it easier
Good tutorial,,, We use acorn clamps on the ground rods ,,it’s a better and tighter fit ..
Thanks it did help me alot
You cab use a fitting that extends through the wall that has male threads on the end that extends into the wall from the conduit body “or junction box as you call it” it is called both in the trade, and then use a box connector or a jam nut as it is sometimes called to tightened against the inter wall sheathing. You can also put a conduit strap around the conduit that is secured to the outside of the wall or both work’s “real good". Good video !!.
❤ I always paint🎉
the ground rod clamp and screw with the copper wire in it to help prevent corrosion as far as the wire access cook box on the outside take a screw is mounted to the wall from the inside a box with silicone on
Good job sir 🤟🏾
Thanks!
I have a manual slide ground rod pounder. I have had it for years. Driving rods are far, and few between for me. I have a hammer drill, but it takes the standard 9/16's SDS shank. I can't find a rod adapter to fit mine. I get a good workout using my old school pounder.
Good job.
Thanks!
wrong clamp for ground rod. that clamp is water pipe clamp. The correct clamp is a bronze acorn clamp
Got that right! Bronze Direct Burial Rated "Acorn" type.
yep
yep
@@yyz2go2112 y
@@crisanto794 Just to clear this up for other passers by, that type of clamp IS available in direct-burial spec. Check the package, they're sold right next to each other and labeled accordingly.
You can use gorilla construction caulking adhesive to secure the LB to the house. You did a great job.
Yep. I was also thinking that a person might want to cut a rectangle silohette of the plastic conduit box into the siding, so that it fits into that hole in the siding and butts right up against the sheathing behind the siding. Then, either screw it or run an anchor bolt (like you might use to hang a ceiling fan) might be a good solution to pull the plastic conduit box tight to the sheathing and keep it from moving around, then caulk wherever you see a gap or hole in and around that plastic conduit box.
We put a coupling or a male adapter on a section of pvc and push against a 2x4 to pull it tight then seal as needed
Most boxes including bell boxes the ears fall off. I predrill use screws & sealing washers with silicone or duckseal (duckseal or silicon around the top and sides of box leaving the bottom open for drainage) I live in the north cold and frosty. Also duckseal around holes and conduit to make a seal and keep critters out even inside of conduit around wires
what i learned from this comment section is theres evidently 1,075 ways to do this and no one can agree on the correct way, but somehow you're wrong. these internet champs are hilarious. if everyone is right then why can no one agree? its almost like religion.
Ha, your not wrong. Yes there is a proper ground clamp(I used a pipe ground clamp). However it still works
@@appalachiandiy2415 yeah im fairly certain that electrical currents dont discriminate against the type of clamp they transfer through haha.
I like to use 18k gold clamps. It's an extra $500 but a hell of a ground. Or just use my wedding ring.
@@nevinkuser9892
You must be divorced? 😄
It's now 1,076 ways....I just added mine.
😜
Good evening, I am just glad that there are genuine craftsmen like yourself that are willing to share their experience and expertise. I am very electrically challenged. I got hit bad with power when I was younger and I have been terrified ever since. Thanks and take care. Good luck with your project.
Thank you! Think you will ever try any electrical now?
Absolutely not.
@@stevejanka361 LOL Well thanks for your replies and good luck with, anything but electrical, projects you got going on
Good videos. Not mention of permits. People watching videos scare me as a 40 year home builder. I too like using the direct burial clamps. One stainless screw into the LB works fine. Can also use silicone behind it next to building.
Some of us have NO permits or inspections in free parts of the country. Our county does not even have a permit office.
Thanks
Good video
Thanks!
Awesome demonstration, thanks so much!! Don't forget to wear hearing protection folks 🎧 That hammer is LOUD lol
To hold the box against the garage you could attach to the end other back of the draw box a small piece of pipe with a treaded head an get one of the ends Lach to hold it onn against the wall
First thing I ever learned was to put my 5/8” ground-clamp on the ground rod before I started driving it in the ground with a sledgehammer and mushrooming the tip of the ground rod bad enough to where the clamp wouldn’t fit. Of course that was many years ago and I’m sure they’ve manufactured something now for someone who had done the same as I had so long ago. 😅 And of course before I could afford a fancy demolition hammer and attachment. Quick shout out to Electrical Inspector Jim Harmon
This might sound crazy, but you don’t need all that fancy equipment to drive a grounding rod in. A simple bottle of water will do it.
Except when hitting buried rocks.
I just hand drove one 6ft deep by hand.. Tapped the last two ft , with hand sledge
its probably done by now, but just incase I would put a one hole strap right below the lb maybe tap con to the concrete. I would think that will keep the lb and pipe straight.
Putting H2O around the rod as you go down makes it go in much easier. In some souls the H20 trick allows you to go in just by pulling the rod up and manually ramming down, add more H2O. Rocks clearly require a maul or what you show.
To secure conduit, Consider adding a short conduit stub inside all cement joints then slip a rubber boot and boot clamps just big enough to slide over conduit and tighten clamps as you pull inward.
Thanks
Simply outstanding!👍👍👍
Thanks!
The make a 2 hole plastic strap to put over the conduit below the box to connect it to the siding. They cost about 59 cents. Use two screws to connect them to the siding. Great video
Thank you, Ive seen them. Any other way to fasten than to screw through the siding?
@@appalachiandiy2415 screws or I like a little gorilla glue on the back as it sticks to siding well.
@@alexmolinich9727 thanks for the info
@@appalachiandiy2415 since it’s plywood with siding get some short pan head screws and use a 2 hole strap for each conduit that has an LB it will be solid. Easier than stucco👍🏻
@@bradleybruh nice, thanks!
Regarding fastening the pvc to the house. Just extend it up the wall a bit more and put a clip on it. Easy.
Glue the 90 into the LB, then use a conduit support on the 90 to the building to hold it in place.
Thanks
Thanks for the demonstration. Great.
We are not allowed to use solid copper wire for Earth Bonding, there some people that over tighten the connections and that bend the Solid Copper wire too many time and these are possible failures in the future. We use stranded wire. We do not connect our Earth to a Neutral bar as this will cause Earth Leakage units to trip as soon as the power is switched on.
Anyway thanks again 👍
Hey dawg, old post but I wanted to inform you you're mistaken about the ground neutral connection. If you have an incoming ground wire from your service it will be connected to the neutral point of the transformer, which is effectively the same thing electrically. It's a common misconception that American homes lack the protection common in other regions, we just have different names for it. We call Earth leakage "Ground fault" and protection devices (special breakers or receptacles) are required in many areas of the home, and they are not affected by our common method of grounding.
@@Spiderslay3r Thanks so much, I think there seems to be a missunderstanding? I think the video is a good demonstration, however I was just commenting that we in SA do not use solid copper for grounding and Earth bonding. I am very aweare that different countries have their own regulations and requierments, Your comment on the Neutral and Earth are the same point from the Supplier is correct in our country. Thanks so much for your comment
For the grounding conduit, use a strap for the size of the conduit and screw it into the side of the house.
I move the wire to the side on the inside of the LB and screw the LB to the wall , 1 1/2 galvanized screw work’s well, also get a 2 hole strap and mount the pipe to the wall …
You should always put the ground and clamp on the ground rod before you bang the ground rod down and just snug it up about a foot below where you going to whack it with a hammer and tape it so it don't move otherwise the top mushrooms over and you'll never get it on you should put that on first before you drive the ground rod down have a nice day again
I know viewers like to criticize, as long as its constructive, it's good, but I am grateful there are people like this youtube content creator trying to share their knowledge for free because its very costly having to pay someone to do this type of work.
Boy I’m glad I’m no longer in the north and I’m an electrician in Florida 😂 definitely should have used some acorn connectors btw
How much to install a ground and an upgrade the neutral service return line
Like others have pointed out. Those gnd clamps are not approved for direct burial besides if you are to use them above ground on 1/2 waterline or 5/8 or less gnd rods, you need to reverse the saddle to the side /w the two small nubs. Your setup was for 3/4 OD
Thanks for the info
Ok, so I’m definitely not an electrician but let me add my two cents. So I would’ve liked to have seen you add the silicone to that bell bottom and on the top so that water/moisture has no way of seeping in. I would have also liked to have seen you glue that 90 to the 90 elbow box and if you want to know how you could’ve made that stick, then you could’ve inserted either another 90’from the inside probably cut shorter so that it 90s up inside of the 2x4 and that could’ve been secured with clamps and screws that way there is no play. Since I’m OCD I would put silicone around entrance point too…
Good job! Thanks a million
You bet!
My dad when he had his own company would predrill a couple holes for screws and then once secured put silicone over the heads
Thanks
🥰 Thanks.
Strap the pipe, duct seal the LB to seal hole in wall then one screw threw the LB behind cover. Then duct seal around wire going in the building inside LB.
I like that. But if it's brick, a clamp in the mortar joint might be faster
Silicone the box to vinyl siding. Cement 90° to conduit box. Build up a strap using washers/cut EMT to space out the strap from concrete wall and screw into concrete. The strap will alleviate the load on the silicone holding the conduit box
They make a clamp to hold conduit to the wall.
@@jeffedmundson3459 just recently learned about all the hangers available in the plumbing section versus the electrical areas. Using cut EMT to space them out is bc our Fastenal location was sketchy with high turnover, so many parts you describe went unordered.
Use an acorn and apply some anti corrosion compound to the rod and the wire.
Great video. Do you have a video of the bonding with the last screw at the end?
Unfortunately, I do not. There is only one place that that size screw should fit on your panel
Thanks for the video, does the wire clamp has to be made of copper?
You could probably use an elbow and short piece of conduit on the inside connecting to the box and then strap that to the stud. Or silicone
yea that would work, thanks
2 or 2 1/2 inch wood screw to attached to outside wall
I rent a room in Miami and want to help this home owner with grounding the house. It’s an old house made in the 1920’s and we need help badly. We may need to DIY this and I hope to use this information to help this home owner out. I feel this home may be on fire if we don’t.
Use liquid tight flex so no need for the elbow or the 90°. On that 90° you can use a small piece of rigid with a hub on the end to secure it to the wall. Use acorns instead to secure ground or cad weld. Always use Rigid when installing outside. Conduit can be run pretty much anyway the installer sees fit but it should always be rigid when outside. So that elbow should be rigid.
Thanks
Well it looks like I was not the only one that made a comment on this guy’s video about how bad the installation was.
He forgot to mention that the Neutral has to be bonded at the main feeder panel. The Neutral of a sub-panel would have to be isolated from the ground to avoid a hazard by bringing a return of the imbalanced load back to the source, through the grounded equipment. Note: he only made sure to put in a screw bonding the Neutral at the main panel.
I typically see people use silicone to both seal and hold the junction box in place
Thanks
In the end you were talking about bonding the screw to the main panel, how did you do that?
I can leave old rods in ground and just add in new ones? Looks great the way you have it!
yes, and thanks!
Drill small hole in lb screw to hours and glue 90 on
I'm grounding my HF station. I need to ground my home's electrical panel, ie run a connection to from my station/busbar to the panel? Well, it's some distance away! I'm doing this for my Palstar amp. Maybe I'll call Palstar & see what they say.
If you need to ground just the system you can do it right where its at. If you need to run a ground from your panel just use a 3 wire cable(ground, hot, neutral)
Like when they give you to work.
??? Restate?
Very thin jonction coper wire... in romania we have regulation : 120 mmp (square mm) , almost similar with main rod , as diameter.
For curiosity : in us do you have such regulations ? Or only need introduce one or two rod in earth?
In Ro it is very drastic standard.
Looks like the pvc pipe coming into your loadcenter with your service conductors is missing a lock nut and bushing...
Not sure about your clamps to the ground rods, i would recommend an acorn. At a mininum, after you pounded the wire over, you should tighten the screws again.
Liquid Nails will secure anything to anything..........for good.
Haha yea I used that stuff one before, thanks
Better make sure it's the exterior type
Put a sheetrock screw in the back of the box to secure to garage FYI ...
Could this connection/bonding of grounding conductor to neutral be done in the meterbase ?
Ok now im confused why do I see the grounding wire coming out of the bottom of the meter box on the outside of the wall am I not supposed to run the ground out of that box or out of the interior like this
We use brass acorn nuts. has that changed.
Could you run a short length of that copper grounding wire between the neutral bar and the ground bar if you didn't have the screw?
yes
Thank you for the video. Can we grow any plants like flowers, vegetable or tree near the grounding rods?
Plants/flowers sure. Trees I would plant a little further away if possible
Unless the codes where you are located differ from the NEC, that ground wire should have ran from the grounding electrodes and into your meter can first, it gets bonded to the neutral in the meter can, then ran from the meter can to your breaker panel. You would bond it to the neutral in your garage panel ONLY if that your main panel (first point of disconnect). I noticed someone else mentioned the intersystems bonding termination, that is also a code requirement as of the 2008 NEC on all residential installations. As far as securing the pull elbow to the wall, you got a few options. 1. Drill small pilot holes inside the box and secure it with stainless screws to the sheathing, since that elbow doesn't have any current carrying conductors I don't think an inspector will have an issue with this, but certainly check with the building department for sure before doing it. 2. You could get a pull elbow with screw "ears" on them and again use stainless screws to fasten it. 3. If you're crafty, you could secure your riser sweep to the structure just below the box with a conduit clamp to secure the bottom of the elbow, then glue a male thread fitting into the exit side of the elbow, cut a 4x4" section of 3/4" plywood as a backer to hole you drilled in the sheathing, make sure only the threads of fitting protrude through both the sheathing and the backer, then thread a locknut onto it to secure the top of the elbow. Lastly, I would pack some silicone behind the elbow filling the voids where it goes through the hole in the siding/sheathing, trust me water will find its way in and slowly rot that that sheathing, if you choose the method of driving a screw through the elbow and into the siding, pack silicone behind it for sure.
See
I came here to also point out that he should mention that method of grounding and bonding is only proper in the Main-Panel, where as sub-panels Grounds and Neutrals are seperated.
Not quite. Per the NEC the neutral and ground are bonded at the service disconnecting means, which is usually in the panel and not in the meter can. Bonding in the meter can is not required unless a) it contains your main breaker or b) if local code requires it. The neutral lug in a typical meter can is already bonded directly to the metal enclosure itself and there's only a neutral (no GEC or EGC) that goes from the meter can to the panel (assuming no main in the meter can). As far as the LB with the GEC, not required in this scenario as long as the GEC is #6 or larger.
It doesn't get bonded in the meter base because the meter is not recognized as the first service disconnect. Although when you pull the meter you have effectively disconnected power from the structure. You would have to cut the seal off the ring to pull the meter. You might get in trouble with the power company if you do, except if it's an emergency. And the power company provided meter rings have a locking system that you can't take the ring off and remove the meter.
@@johndavies2949I never said or meant to imply in any way that the meter itself is serves as a disconnect, I apologize if anyone interpreted it in that way. I said that the code (or at least code requirements in my area) specify that the neutral and the grounding conductors are to be bonded in the meter can AND bonded at the first point of disconnect to the structure. This first point of disconnect typically is the main breaker panel on a single family residence, but since the 2020 code there is now a requirement that newly constructed homes, or homes with changes being made to its service equipment must have a serivce disconnect outside at the point where the service enters the home. This would be the last place where the neutral and grounding conductors get bonded. In the event that the outside disconnect happens to only be a single cutoff breaker or switch and the breaker panel is inside, the breaker panel would be treated as a sub-panel in that instance and you would not bond the conductors there. I hope this clarifies what I was saying with my comment about the meter bonding.
F26 on back or Wire nut around neck of pipe.
With your panel, where did you exactly install the green bonding screw?. My panel is just like it with qwik connects. Your video answered my question of the copper ground landing, but where does the green screw go?
There is an open hole in the bar directly above a hole in the back can.
Is the smaller lug beside the neutral in between the hot leg and neutral on a square d for the ground wire . Because they have the ground ran to the ground coming into the neutral bar from outside . Should it be there ??
I guess no one knows the answer to this question . Everyone just likes talking about what someone did wrong or not to code . At least he put a video up and tried to help people more than I can say about most ! Every one talking crap why dont (you) post a video of the rite way to do it ! Put all your negativity into a positive . The world and internet will be so much better !If you know how to do that instead of criticizing people , everyone will benefit from it . No one is perfect nor is your work ! Thanks for the video it did help me !
For affixing the ground wire box. I'd do something ghetto like squirt it full of spray foam till it came out a bit inside, then leave enough so it won't go anywhere. Would hold it, and seal it to keep out bugs, mice etc.
🤣😂
What did you mean at the very end with the grounding screw? Did you put the ground screw on that panel or not? For this panel, where did you connect the green grounding wires from the circuits? Do the green wires from circuits go to the neutral bus bar like the bare copper wire in your video?
Its a Bonding Screw. And yes I did connect it, it bonds/Connects the panel to the neutral bus bar(for Main panels). The bare grounds are connected into the neutral bus bar. If you have green grounds they will go here as well
Nice video! One question -- is the grounding wire supposed to be secured (stapled) to the stud within 12" of entering the panel?
Yes
Can you point ground wire down in clamp to prevent a flesh ripper sticking up?
I guess that’s why he hammered it downward, it’s what he said
Even if you strapped the 90 to the wall it should hold it in place I think they should make one that it’s threaded for a lock ring on the other side
Yes! I looked for a lock ring thing but couldnt find one]
@@appalachiandiy2415 Every time I have used them I end up having pipe inside as well and since that is cut to exact fit...the tension holds it in place. With yours I'd say add a little pipe to the end of it just enough to put a socket flange on the end of it. It'd give you something to screw to the wall on the inside.
@@nick4819 thanks for the info
@@appalachiandiy2415 All electrical parts are getting hard to find right now and when you do find them, the prices have seemed to double what they was two years ago.
@@Go2scout got that right
Great video.. I have 2 electrical panels do I need to do this for both or can I connect both to one rod
You can do it at sub panels, just make sure that the ground rod connects only to the ground bus and not the neutral bus, which should not be bonded together in a sub panel. It's not required though.
So the conduit is for looks or code?
very neat, thank you, it's nice when you know what your doing and have the right tools, live in a mobile home and just want to ground my antenna, have one question, why 2 grounding rods.
It needs to have less than 25 ohm of resistance. One might get you close but 2 definitely will.
One is primary. Must be supplemented by a supplementary grounding electrode. See NEC 259.53 A 2 and A 3
Thank you I had the exact same question. My home was built in the early 80s will it also have two rods. It’s a small home.
Im hooking up a meter socket and breaker panel. I was thinking the ground wire goes from the rods to the meter and then to the breaker panel. But i dont know now. I didnt see a meter in your video
The ground wire from the rods is the grounding electrode conductor and it goes to the service disconnecting means. If the main breaker for your service is in your main panel and not in your meter enclosure, then you run the GEC to the neutral bar and bond the neutral bar to the panel using the green bonding screw (or other means) that came with the panel.
A dry wall backer looks like a butter fly
Thanks