Thanks for the vid! A couple of comments for others watching and reading. It doesnt matter which hot wire goes to either of the two lugs on either side of the neutral lug for the two 120 volt 'hot' service entrance conductors. Also, grounding (bare copper) wires can be directly attached to the neutral bars (No need for separate ground bars) if the service goes directly back to the meter (grounds only need to be separated from the neutrals for auxiliary panels). Lastly, the 'goop' he put on is an anti-oxidant so the aluminium wires do not corrode.
I am pretty sure he said the main wires go back to the meter, so if that is true, the panel he is working on is the main, so that means his ground and neutral should be bonded together unless his meter can also has breakers. So after this main panel if he was to add another panel somewhere else in the home that would be a sub panel witch the ground and neutral should be separate. He should also have plastic covers over the two hot legs terminal and its a great idea to keep neutrals separate and you can double tap your grounds if the wire is the same size if your inspector agrees with that but absolutely a very neat panel and excellent keeping the wires labeled.
Worth Mentioning NOALOX is indeed used for what you said but it's not intended to make a better connection it's designed to maintain a good connection. When aluminum oxidizes as it heats and cools and because of the atmosphere it develops a layer of oxide on it that is not very conducive and actually can increase the overall resistance of your electrical system causing the heating and cooling to become more and more extreme over time which will eventually lead to failure. Just a small note. Excellent installation on all accounts.
Ryndon, First of all I want to say nice job, I am a Master Electrician and have been for 35 years. Overall I think you did a nice job clean, defined and secure. I just would like to clearify a couple things we do in Maryland and of course people should realize the National Electrical Code are minumum requirements. The Load Center you installed is what is termed a sub panel that is why you have Isolated the ground from the Neutral and you installed 4 conductor feeder cable. People should know in an installation such as yours the main service is located near the Electric meter and feeds this panel also if it were a Main Panel there would have to be a Identified Green Bond Connection either a green screw or a Green tie connecting the Ground Bar to the Neutral Bar. If it were the main panel you would have used a 3 conductor Service Entrance Cable and you would have to have the panel terminate immediatly upon entrance to the house in Montgomery County Md the accepted code is within 5 feet. Also We are not allowed to intall a Main Panel on a interior wall unless it is Isolated with fire rated drywall. As I said you did a fine job I just wanted to throw my two cents so people realize there are differences where in the Country you do the work and whether you are installing a main panel or a Sub Panel. Thank you for helping people understand what a Load Center Installation entails.
hi Cary, i have a question if i may, whats the longevity of the instalation? the cable last for 10 20? years? what happens if you have to rewire the house? thnx. best regards
Finally a good intelligent young good American man who knows exactly how to wire a breaker box and shows it in a very intelligent manner and explains everything without wasting a person's time talking about hearts and fingers and holes. If I had the money I would send this young man $100,000 for Christmas for helping so many people.
Person 1: Ok first you turn on the burner and start warming the pot. Then put warm water in the pot only when the part is warm but not hot, don't want to wrap the pan. Then put the heat on high Person 2: No you fill the container with water first, then just put it straight on high heat. Person 3: instructions not clear, burnt my water and warped my pan
Great video, one note to it, When landing your grounds and neutrals, you DO NOT double them up unless you run out of screws in the ground and neutral bar. and if you do run out, you can only double up with the same gauge wire. like it... nice and clean.
Good job, not sure if your allowed to double up the neutrals in your area but I have never done that..also that is your main panel,I know your service entrance comes from street then down to your meter then you jumped over to your main panel,You need to bond the grounds and neutrals on your main panels..only on sub-panels you have to isolate the grounds and neutrals..but besides that good work..
@@ShortArmStrongArm yea you will fail inspection my teacher gave us this video for a exam and we had to find out what he did wrong and he double the neutrals. He had enough space but still double them.
Okay princess can you tell me why it is an issue? In principle of building code and application of installation, or theoretical in load calculations? They land in the same bar over the same conductors, and many times you will be landing a 15 amp circuits neutral in a location that could accommodate a 100 amp sub panels neutral conductor...why not double up? I'm guessing your gonna have to email the guy that couldn't get a profitable job working in the trade (aka he's teaching you) for an answer 😉
Just a foot note, at 1:34 you talk about "noalox" for the aluminum wire to prevent expanding & contracting. It actually has nothing to do with that. it literally means, No Al Ox, which is No Aluminum Oxide will be formed, it prevents oxidation on the aluminum wire which will inhibit conductivity down the road. Great video though thank you!
...You're right.....AND...out here in California....no aluminum in residential anyway.... Aluminum wire shouldn't expand/contract anyway unless it's overloaded...? I've worked as Commercial Elec/maint....seen a good deal of aluminum in newer buildings....seldom seen it get anywhere near warm.....as long as it's not overloaded
Well done, man. Good job. This isn't perfect, but it's far from disappointing. This is probably one of the best and most concise vids on YT about Main Panel installation. Not sure whether you WARNED people that your service wires were not connected yet. Those hot wires can and will kill you.
If you have to do anything else in the main panel besides installing new or replacing circuit breakers (NOT the main c.b.) make sure the meter is disconnected, even if there's a disconnect before the panel...don't trust your life to a switch that might have a blade still connected when you think the switch is off.
Project circumstances are going to be different everywhere. I used to work for SQD selling same panels and I think this is an Excellent video. Great electrician and communicator.
Nice job, a clean panel presents well and gives the comfort of knowing that who ever did the install took good care, attention to detail. I take my wedding band off though....
I see you live where 4 wire entrance is required. In my area there is 3 wire entrance and neutrals and grounds go to the same place and there is a bonding screw that grounds out the panel itself.
john smith it’s a sub panel because it’s more than 5 feet from the meter base. Where I’m from 4 wire with bond is required over five ft from meter and the meter base to be installed should have a main breaker on it
***** I goofed a bit even though what I said is correct. Since 2002 the NEC (Section 408.21) has not allowed 2 under a lug, it still was a violation of the panel specs prior to that and in violation of 110.3(B).
I am an electrician in the UK. We have to sheath our ground wires. No bare conductors in the panel as you do. They have to be placed in order. The groundwire (we call it earth) has to go in a corresponding terminal. For example the first circuit. will have to have Ground in terminal one, Hot (live) in the first breaker and the neutral in the first neutral terminal. The second circuit ground terminal 2, hot #2 breaker, neutral #2 terminal and so on. What testing of the circuits do you carry out before applying power to the panel. In the UK we have several tests we have to perform to insure the integrity of the circuit. We don't turn on and hope it's ok. Then when everything is livened up we perform other tests, insulation resistance, loop impeadance tests. If there are RCD's (earth interrupters) we test those to mak sure they trip within the specified times. I cannot find any videos of U.S. electrical testing. Does testing get carried out at any stage? Oh and there is no way we would be able to run a 200 amp cable with as little mechanical protection as you have done to supply the panel.
Bare grounding wire is a safety precaution as it makes for an easy path to terminate an unsafe cable, for example Romex being punctured by a nail and becoming live.. if a nail punctures live, it has a much higher chance of shorting out on the bare ground immediately next to it vs. having to puncture earth shielding too. Also in North America they use 120v split phase being a safer power option for residential dwellings. UK grounds may need to be insulated because of the 230 voltage which tends to require more shielding to avoid phantom voltage or possible voltage leaks that may very well deem GFCI's unusable. Maybe why RCD's are used there as they're not as sensitive. GFCI's have built-in testing and will not turn on if a leak is detected or a fault in the socket/breaker itself.
Thanks for the video. Very nice panel detail. I am impressed with the neatness of the wiring. I work at a school district and you would be surprised at what kind of mess I find in the panels when I open one up. Very well done sir.
Thank you so much for this video----it seems to be the only one on u tube that takes on this task that seems so difficult for the do it yur selfer-----I don't understand why someone hasn't posted a similar video much sooner---I just assumed electricians didn't want others to learn for job security ---which is why I think u r getting negative comments Thanks again and pls make more of these ---u have my subscription
***** When I lived in cali(5-10 years ago) a 100 to 200 amp service upgrade was 4000-5000, now in arkansas area the same thing is 1000-1500(which will be going up starting next year when AR adopts 2014 code)
Nice looking install. Two questions though, what are those connectors you're using to run the Romex through the panel and why did you double tap your ground and neutrals when you had the space to single tap them?
Nicely done. I’m an electrical contractor 35 yrs in the trade and I would have no problem showing this video to my new helpers. I only have a few of my own personal things I like to do but that’s just how I’ve always done my panels. I tape my bare ground green helps to keep it from damage and oxidation. I also prefer to dress my mains last. More sore for replacement panels than new construction just has always been easier and a faster install for me. Big fan of a nice neat dress of a panel. One of my specialities, seems to be a dying art but glad to see it’s not dead. Ty
Neat set up for ground wires and neutral wires. Practice NOT touching the bus connection -break the habit.safety first..Wear gloves, you can get nasty cuts while making up panel boxes. Nice video. Kindest Regards
Sure is a bunch of people with their own thoughts on this. Fact is, exactly what he did in this video is what is required in Florida. The NO-AL-OX is something that help keep the aluminum from oxidizing. (NO-AL-OX)!!! If an inspector doesn't see it used on any and all aluminum wire here, YOU FAIL.... What he was talking about with tightening the lugs very tight is because over time the aluminum will expand and contract AS WOULD COPPER, but copper at a much lower rate. If you don't tighten the shit out of the lugs on aluminum you WILL end up with an open over time. I proved this to a linesman from Florida Power some years ago. I had incoming voltage on my neutral. A little over 4V. He looked at me like I was purple when I told him it was coming in on the neutral. Had to prove it to him. Pulled the meter and sure as shit, still had 4 volts on the neutral. He tried to give me a ton of excuses and I proved him wrong until he finally pulled the meter.. Then I told him to open up the transformer and be ready to "TIGHTEN" the lugs. Told him to yell when he was ready, but I would tell him when he tightened the neutral lug. I opened the window to my bathroom and told him I was ready. I then told him my voltage on the plumbing just went up. Once again he thought I was fucking crazy. He came in and I proved that to him.. This dumb ass had done this job for 12 years and had no idea that a loose connection would bleed power off.. Once he tightened them all, I had him pull the neutral and I yelled to him when he did it. He then called in the engineers... To this day we still get zapped in the shower now and then.. It's been more than 8 years now. So make sure you tighten the shit out of your lugs especially the ones with aluminum wire....
In my local, we would not be able to land multiple neutrals under one screw, and the service entrance would require a plastic bushing on the wire connector. Did you install your bonding jumper screw, or is there another disconnect before the meter base?Overall, it looks like a nice, neat install.
The one thing that you should also do is "Load Calculation Landing" of the HOT conductors{ 240vac/220vac DPST breakers @ the very bottom - so that you will have alot of bar as HeatSink for A 120vac [ Blk.] & B 120vac [ Red ] phases. Also separate the Constant duty from Intermediate duty SPST breakers & divide as much of the LOAD between A & B{ I"ve seen older home Mains burn up one or the other phase contacts -because of none Balance}.
I see a few mistakes: - An insulation bushing is required to be installed on the SE clamp connector - More than one neutral wire connected under one lug. Should be a single wire only - All wires have to be tighten to the specified torque printed on the label in the panel.
Very neat panel wiring job, thanks for sharing. Our home was wired in 1984 and it looks nothing like yours. Now to find a guy to come in and rerun the in panel wires to look clean and like a pro. Thanks for sharing.
Nice video, good job on that panel. Nice to work with quality panels like Sq D. Also nice to see someone who loves what he does so much he'll make a video of his work. This is when work becomes fun, and isn't work anymore. Electricians Rule!
Thank you so much for the video really informative. So essentially the two single phase hot wires need to be secured along with your neutral and ground. Are the neutral and ground connected?
Great video! Very clean & neat install!! Ontario, Canada installers take note! The ground wire goes to the Neutral bar to bond the Neutral to Ground. Then a green ground screw (factory installed) connects the grounded Neutral to the metal box. Electrical inspectors up here will reject the main grounding method shown in this video. Also branch circuit wiring (yellow & orange shown here) CANNOT be run through the main breaker compartment for safety reasons. There is an exception to this allowed if there is a main disconnect switch ahead of this box near the meter box.
Really, complain that old pros like myself can't sit in a Waffle House and eat an omelette and watch a video? I had to look at the date it posted as things have changed in subsequent years. Not to bust him but to see if there was an idea or two he might have that I could use. Use your brain every day and it might not get too fuzzy in your later years.
One other thought here is that you Might state what State you are working in ...and maybe even the city, these methods might change from State to State and city to city.
The only time you can put neutral and ground wires in same bus bar is when panel is bonded. Normally in first means of disconnect. In older homes you will see tht a lot because you only have a 3 wire system . 2 hots and neutral. New homes now have 4 wire system. 2 hots neutral and ground. Or if you do an upgrade (4 wire system) inspector will look for neutral wires to be separate from ground wires. Which means you have to separate neutral wires and ground wires. hope this info helped.
This is the first of your videos I have seen (if you actually have more, haven't checked). Compared to others' videos on UA-cam, this was the best so far. Looking forward to seeing more from you. One thing though, the Noalox is an anti-oxident that hinders corrosion on aluminum conductors.
Damn fine job sir. Don't let all these naysayers who probably own a 10-in-1, strippers, and a couple pairs of channel locks get you down. It's easy to do precision wire bends and make it "pretty" when you get paid by the hour. I've been doing this 25 years and I'd hire you in a minute!!! The only thing I see wrong is the double-lugging on the neutrals, ain't nuthing wrong with the rest!
*****... while I agree with you that this is totally inadequate... and he doesn't seem sure of what he is doing, making statements as questions... I will add, as I stated before, what the manufacturer allows isn't acceptable in Commercial or Industrial applications by any Inspector... Residential Codes must be different... I don't remember as I only did Resi work in my first year as an apprentice...
***** Wrong jurisdiction, but most of our code is identical to the US, or behind. Canadian Code says neutrals must be terminated in such a manner that they can be disconnected without interfering with other neutrals [4-028(d)]. Therefore, double landing is prohibited. It's dangerous because while I'm removing one circuit's neutral, and incidentally break contact on the other neutral, and that other neutral is shared between 2 phases, then I have made a floating neutral situation, putting the loads in series across 240V. That can be colossal failure if those 2 circuits were imbalanced and supplied expensive equipment. Law trumps manufacturer. Law may sometimes state "as per manufacturer", but manufacturers always state "install in accordance with local laws".
NEC new rule TORQUE everything including receptacles and keep track of notes in blueprints and signatures of Master electrician approval and verification according to laws and regs
Similar comment, 100+ yr old. Knob and tube with dangerous flying splices. Original branches ran everything, then sketchy upgrades over the years. Getting it neat is a relief
I like you video Ryndon, you seem very enthusiastic and energetic, the kind of guy I would hire. If I may say, most electricians will pick apart a video of other electrician because they may think they know a lot. If you don't want to be one of those guys that gets knocked around by those know it all's, take a little time to learn a bit about wiring a panel board, or any thing for that matter. Understand what a service grounding conductor is used for and why the neutral and grounds are separated in a sub panel. Use the right terminology when referring to the ground terminals verses ground rods. Grounding conductors are not typically used for current caring conductors. There is some truth in most of the comments below, but don't take it too hard, there just trying to help. I noticed your panel was flush with the wall stud, I would set it out to the thickness of the wallboard you plan on installing, this will save you looking for longer screws to mount the cover panel. One last thing, double wiring grounds and neutrals is fronded upon, specially with the neutrals my friend. Stay Safe!!
Greg, as much as I would like too, the logistics alone would be more than I could handle, like video taping. Not to take away from Ryndon video, he actually did a pretty good job, it's to bad his video didn't show other aspects, like roping and make-up. If I may suggest-getting a self help book and study it. You may be able to find them on-line. If your able to video your project, by all means post them and I would be glad to help you in any way. Best to you.
You're one of the nicest professional comments; offering honest well thought out reasoning to assist not tear down. I admire this about you sir; sign of a true journeyman.
Yeah. Same with the ground wires. It's a new installation. No need to do that as there's plenty of termination screws. Having individual wires would make it safer to work on later.
@@fedfreds832 For safety reasons it's best to keep ALL terminations separate for future system maintenance. How's that for a reason? Need more room, get a bigger panel!
Timbuck Too lmao for future doubling up neutrals will cause problems?? Sounds like something an apprentice would say😂😂if your gonna work on a lug with two different nuets then TURN BOTH BREAKERS OFF. It’s not fucking rocket science. Do you need help untwisting existing wires that were nutted together to Tim buck??
First off you can use noalox or pentrox. Second if in Ontario you are no longer allowed to come through the top of your panel with anything besides your feed. They're are very few exceptions to this.
check the video 7min 38 sec. The national Electrical states only one conductor is permitted for each lug or termination point. You can't double up landing your wires. Other than that its a text book installation. Good job
NEC 408.21 "Exception: Grounded conductors of circuits with parallel conductors shall be permitted to terminate in a single terminal if the terminal is identified for connection of more than one conductor."
NEC 408.41 is an exception for "parallel conductors" as when you pull feeders in parallel to ease cost and difficulty pulling due to wire size (imagine pulling two 3/0 as the neutral (or "grounded") conductor for a 500 amp feeder). Needless to say, that implies the same circuit which means you placing neutrals from separate circuits under the same terminal is a plain violation of 408.41. Grounding electrodes (grounds) can be terminated under the same lug if rated. Guess you got some lax inspectors out there.
Little inaccuracies mislead your viewers. Nolox does nothing to impact expansion of AL wire. Its role is to limit oxidation (no ox) period. There is a torque rating for all of the connections - follow that, please don't just crank the heck out of your panel lugs.
Don't you use antioxidant paste (or any isolation) for preventing corrosion between copper and aluminum electrical ground wires on the left side of this box?
I think it is worth mentioning that the panel has separate grounding bars because it is treated as a sub panel due to it being an extended service. Don't forget kickplates when the homeruns come closer than 1 1/4" to the face of the stud they are passing through.
WOW! 416 comments and mine makes 317. Thank you for making this video and posting on youtube. Please post more video's . Every one that see your video and then read all the posted comments below, will come away with something they didn't know. Great work done in making this video.
I'm a licensed electrician you did a good job but the main reason you hire a electrician is for insurance if you have an electrical fire when the insurance company investigates the will want to know what electrical contractor you used. No electrical contractor no money. Now if the load calls are right he is all good. But I would never recommend using aluminum wire. But as far as the application good job.
Jim Dandy Thats because of cost plus your utility company knows how to work with it plus weight. Aluminum wire can cause fires if not properly installed.
The Awgster, Please tell that to the local power company that AL wire isn't worth anything. It gets stolen all the time such that they now have their name impressed on the wire so that only the company can recycle it.
Seriously? Come on man, Anyone that has half a brain would understand that there was no power running to the box, he did not need it hooked up to an artificial wall on the stage of the Doctors TV show to prove that, DAYM! If they did not then we should you tube the Idiot that didn't make sure there was no electricity I will provide the fricken popcorn and beer for that one LOL :)
I agree with James' decision to address the safety aspect of the job. You cant under emphasize the importance of all safety precautions. It happens that fast.
As a habit, you should NEVER touch the bus bars or lugs. Even if you know its not hot. Its the same law as working with a gun. always consider the gun loaded. Practice the bus is always hot. Even when showing a video. This Practice Saves Lives
yuck, so much busy work. i am a little confused. i read in the NEC that the ground and neutral bus bar does NOT need to be separate in the mail panel but only sub panel. is this technically a subpanel fed from an exterior one?
Drill is the way to go save time and for ended money, and that drill he was using have a clutch, so how many of you are drilling holes on 2x4 with a manual drill ? Let the man use his drill to tie the screws who cares they got tie and he didn't strip any, video was great and high quality picture, you ain't a teacher why all you heaters want him to use terminology the only you guys can understand? Plain and simple is ok. I'm sure all the lights and outlets are going to work when you get done.
nice work. very informative. I'm an electrician apprentice I've felt with this type of work for the past 7yrs. working on getting my electrical license. I appreciate your video
I noticed my Siemens panel has one, it's the only panel and the screw is not turned in. Leave it out or turn it in? Looks to me like it goes through the neutral bar so won't it be connecting the grounds on the box to the neutrals?
As someone that doesn't know anything about electrical work, the incoming is aluminium?! Didn't we all decide aluminium was a bad idea for electrical wiring in the 70s? I figured in the 21st century, everything would be copper only?
Justin McCormick The aluminum you are thinking of is a different alloy than the one we see today which is a AA8800 series. The other big issue during that time (late 60's early 70's) was that the devices were not designed for the aluminum connection that also caused issues. There is nothing wrong with using the modern aluminum wire and is used all the time without issue.
In the 4 1/2 years I've been doing this stuff, in residential I've seen 80% of service entrance conductors are aluminum . In commercial, SE conductors are aluminum 95% of the
Nice job. Who doesn't have a few flaws? I'm not perfect. Your video shows people curious about electrical panels a good overview. I've seen some electrical veterans who wire up rats nest in their panels. I like people who take pride in their work.
Nice panel job! Aluminum is nice to use for service entrance to save a bit of cost on the job. Aluminum does expand and contract more because it is a lighter metal than copper. The reason to use noalox is because it's an anti oxidant. Aluminum exposed to air and environment will form a hard coating of oxidation over time which makes it non conductive. Basically it becomes corroded and can lose connection. So the noalox is like a barrier to that. I have seen many of aluminum neutral conductors become oxidized, (when its in damp location) lose connection at main lug and cause voltages to spike through the electrical branch circuits and burn up equipment in the house because the electrician failed to apply the noalox. So, the aluminum is still going to expand and contract even when you apply noalox, but it will protect the aluminum from forming the oxidation layer which will cause connection to be inhibited at terminal point. If you read the instructions on bottle of using noalox you will see it says to first use a wire brush on the conductor end before applying the noalox and landing it at connection which almost nobody does. You were basically right but wanted to share what I have learned over the years.
OK everyone 1. he is a licenced electrician 2. his work has been, and in this case will BE INSPECTED 3. do you really think he would do something he is not permetted to do when he knows he WILL be inspected ?? 4. perhaps everything does not match your area's code, but once again he is an licenced electrician who's work has been, and will be inspected each time, so what ever he is doing IS up to code in his area. 5. Final note Norway STFU running all 240v curcuits is a whole diff. program 6. OH, who ever got paid off to requir Aluminum wire should be jailed, inferior metal! 7. OH Ya, nice video !!
There is nothing wrong with aluminum wire. Majority of houses have aluminum between the transformer and the meter, and between the meter and the panelboard. Many have aluminum wire between the stove and the panelboard as well.
zerocool5878 I it wasn't a sub-panel it wouldn't be fed with a 4-wire, and you can clearly see it's in an interior wall so it has to have a disconnect ahead of it somewhere-
i have seen some horrible jobs done in panels by these so called licensed Electricians And passed by city inspectors ....... i wonder how these people get their licenses and those good paying city jobs ....... you have done a commendable job in this video, just keep your neutrals separate...... you have plenty of lugs .... once again great neat job done .......
Hey there, I am not licensed but have installed many panels under supervision. I was taught to use service loops on every thing but the ground wire, I live in Canada is this different in the US? This being a main panel the bonding screw between ground and neutral should be in place where as a sub panel should not. In Ontario I was taught that you were not to run load wires through the line wire compartment. Which never made sense to me as there are all the knockouts all in the same end?? Please explain! Cheers Clinton
Thanks for the vid! A couple of comments for others watching and reading. It doesnt matter which hot wire goes to either of the two lugs on either side of the neutral lug for the two 120 volt 'hot' service entrance conductors. Also, grounding (bare copper) wires can be directly attached to the neutral bars (No need for separate ground bars) if the service goes directly back to the meter (grounds only need to be separated from the neutrals for auxiliary panels). Lastly, the 'goop' he put on is an anti-oxidant so the aluminium wires do not corrode.
Exactly. I don't understand why he does not clarify that
Wrong, grounds do need to be separated bc it's a sub-panel..
I am pretty sure he said the main wires go back to the meter, so if that is true, the panel he is working on is the main, so that means his ground and neutral should be bonded together unless his meter can also has breakers. So after this main panel if he was to add another panel somewhere else in the home that would be a sub panel witch the ground and neutral should be separate. He should also have plastic covers over the two hot legs terminal and its a great idea to keep neutrals separate and you can double tap your grounds if the wire is the same size if your inspector agrees with that but absolutely a very neat panel and excellent keeping the wires labeled.
@@vipelectric10 When did he say its a subpanel? I heard the sec was straight from meter with no other service disconnect mentioned.
Worth Mentioning NOALOX is indeed used for what you said but it's not intended to make a better connection it's designed to maintain a good connection. When aluminum oxidizes as it heats and cools and because of the atmosphere it develops a layer of oxide on it that is not very conducive and actually can increase the overall resistance of your electrical system causing the heating and cooling to become more and more extreme over time which will eventually lead to failure. Just a small note. Excellent installation on all accounts.
Ryndon, First of all I want to say nice job, I am a Master Electrician and have been for 35 years. Overall I think you did a nice job clean, defined and secure. I just would like to clearify a couple things we do in Maryland and of course people should realize the National Electrical Code are minumum requirements. The Load Center you installed is what is termed a sub panel that is why you have Isolated the ground from the Neutral and you installed 4 conductor feeder cable. People should know in an installation such as yours the main service is located near the Electric meter and feeds this panel also if it were a Main Panel there would have to be a Identified Green Bond Connection either a green screw or a Green tie connecting the Ground Bar to the Neutral Bar.
If it were the main panel you would have used a 3 conductor Service Entrance Cable and you would have to have the panel terminate immediatly upon entrance to the house in Montgomery County Md the accepted code is within 5 feet. Also We are not allowed to intall a Main Panel on a interior wall unless it is Isolated with fire rated drywall. As I said you did a fine job I just wanted to throw my two cents so people realize there are differences where in the Country you do the work and whether you are installing a main panel or a Sub Panel. Thank you for helping people understand what a Load Center Installation entails.
ua-cam.com/video/40eZKinjKpw/v-deo.html
hi Cary, i have a question if i may, whats the longevity of the instalation? the cable last for 10 20? years? what happens if you have to rewire the house? thnx.
best regards
I agree with you; this video was very well made and thank you for your relevant and experienced commentary.
Head Banger The basic service life of your wiring is the life of the property. But in general 50 to 100 years
Cary Lamari i got a question, why some times I see ground wire with neutral wire together is that bad? Or is no big deal
Finally a good intelligent young good American man who knows exactly how to wire a breaker box and shows it in a very intelligent manner and explains everything without wasting a person's time talking about hearts and fingers and holes. If I had the money I would send this young man $100,000 for Christmas for helping so many people.
Square D makes a nice panel. I just installed the Homeline version with the plug on neutral. Talk about a time saver! Great video!
Someone could do a video of how to boil water and there would be 500 arguments on how it SHOULD be done. LOL
Person 1: Ok first you turn on the burner and start warming the pot. Then put warm water in the pot only when the part is warm but not hot, don't want to wrap the pan. Then put the heat on high
Person 2: No you fill the container with water first, then just put it straight on high heat.
Person 3: instructions not clear, burnt my water and warped my pan
@@xeanheart2614 lmfaooo so true
Step 2 doesn't seem right
That's electricians for you. Never met one who didn't think he knew everything
I totally disagree with you.
Great video, one note to it, When landing your grounds and neutrals, you DO NOT double them up unless you run out of screws in the ground and neutral bar. and if you do run out, you can only double up with the same gauge wire. like it... nice and clean.
Code only allows the equipment Ground Conductors to be double tapped , but NEVER a Neutral Conductor !!!!
I've watched several of these, yours is one of the better ones, not so much on the technicalities (not criticizing that BTW) but on the presentation.
I like your wire labeling method, I'll use that on my next house.
Good job, not sure if your allowed to double up the neutrals in your area but I have never done that..also that is your main panel,I know your service entrance comes from street then down to your meter then you jumped over to your main panel,You need to bond the grounds and neutrals on your main panels..only on sub-panels you have to isolate the grounds and neutrals..but besides that good work..
I don't think that you're supposed to double tap neutrals..
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@@ShortArmStrongArm yea you will fail inspection my teacher gave us this video for a exam and we had to find out what he did wrong and he double the neutrals. He had enough space but still double them.
Okay princess can you tell me why it is an issue? In principle of building code and application of installation, or theoretical in load calculations? They land in the same bar over the same conductors, and many times you will be landing a 15 amp circuits neutral in a location that could accommodate a 100 amp sub panels neutral conductor...why not double up? I'm guessing your gonna have to email the guy that couldn't get a profitable job working in the trade (aka he's teaching you) for an answer 😉
@@PedroGarcia-zf8zg talking to you bud
Just a foot note, at 1:34 you talk about "noalox" for the aluminum wire to prevent expanding & contracting. It actually has nothing to do with that. it literally means, No Al Ox, which is No Aluminum Oxide will be formed, it prevents oxidation on the aluminum wire which will inhibit conductivity down the road. Great video though thank you!
yep
+Science-101 Hey didn't I already say that ? :-)
hack and this video is pointless
...You're right.....AND...out here in California....no aluminum in residential anyway....
Aluminum wire shouldn't expand/contract anyway unless it's overloaded...? I've worked as Commercial Elec/maint....seen a good deal of aluminum in newer buildings....seldom seen it get anywhere near warm.....as long as it's not overloaded
how to rewire a house
You did a nice clean job but you should not double tap any conductors. One wire per lug or screw.
Well done, man. Good job. This isn't perfect, but it's far from disappointing. This is probably one of the best and most concise vids on YT about Main Panel installation. Not sure whether you WARNED people that your service wires were not connected yet. Those hot wires can and will kill you.
He did say lines were not connected in the beginning.
This is a subpanel as evidenced by the 4 wire SER...
If you have to do anything else in the main panel besides installing new or replacing circuit breakers (NOT the main c.b.) make sure the meter is disconnected, even if there's a disconnect before the panel...don't trust your life to a switch that might have a blade still connected when you think the switch is off.
Diesel Boy,
Which means he's violating code with more than one neutral wire connected to a neutral bus block terminal connection..
rayford21 hi
DAMN!...that is a very pretty install!
I certainly respect the artistic positioning of an experienced electrician.
From one to another.
Batangas
Double tapping a neutral line is a no no, look it up. Just sayin. especially when there is so many empty lugs.
He's just happy cause he's doing a new OPEN rough in! THATS A VACATION!
open is always easier ! NOTHING HOT !
Nice work,clean and labeled panel,professional finish,👍🏻
Project circumstances are going to be different everywhere. I used to work for SQD selling same panels and I think this is an Excellent video. Great electrician and communicator.
Thanks for a great video without any annoying background music, 👍
Nice job, a clean panel presents well and gives the comfort of knowing that who ever did the install took good care, attention to detail. I take my wedding band off though....
I see you live where 4 wire entrance is required. In my area there is 3 wire entrance and neutrals and grounds go to the same place and there is a bonding screw that grounds out the panel itself.
john smith it’s a sub panel because it’s more than 5 feet from the meter base. Where I’m from 4 wire with bond is required over five ft from meter and the meter base to be installed should have a main breaker on it
You cannot land two neutrals (grounded conductors) under one lug, this violates the manufacturers spec and now is in violation the 2014 NEC.
Thank you. Thought I was going crazy.
***** I goofed a bit even though what I said is correct. Since 2002 the NEC (Section 408.21) has not allowed 2 under a lug, it still was a violation of the panel specs prior to that and in violation of 110.3(B).
***** Me too
Donald Hester didn't know the 2014 code was in use already
+Donald Hester I thought it was weird. I think he was being lazy. Since he got enough lugs for all ground wires.
I am an electrician in the UK. We have to sheath our ground wires. No bare conductors in the panel as you do. They have to be placed in order. The groundwire (we call it earth) has to go in a corresponding terminal. For example the first circuit. will have to have Ground in terminal one, Hot (live) in the first breaker and the neutral in the first neutral terminal. The second circuit ground terminal 2, hot #2 breaker, neutral #2 terminal and so on. What testing of the circuits do you carry out before applying power to the panel. In the UK we have several tests we have to perform to insure the integrity of the circuit. We don't turn on and hope it's ok. Then when everything is livened up we perform other tests, insulation resistance, loop impeadance tests. If there are RCD's (earth interrupters) we test those to mak sure they trip within the specified times. I cannot find any videos of U.S. electrical testing. Does testing get carried out at any stage? Oh and there is no way we would be able to run a 200 amp cable with as little mechanical protection as you have done to supply the panel.
Bare grounding wire is a safety precaution as it makes for an easy path to terminate an unsafe cable, for example Romex being punctured by a nail and becoming live.. if a nail punctures live, it has a much higher chance of shorting out on the bare ground immediately next to it vs. having to puncture earth shielding too. Also in North America they use 120v split phase being a safer power option for residential dwellings. UK grounds may need to be insulated because of the 230 voltage which tends to require more shielding to avoid phantom voltage or possible voltage leaks that may very well deem GFCI's unusable. Maybe why RCD's are used there as they're not as sensitive. GFCI's have built-in testing and will not turn on if a leak is detected or a fault in the socket/breaker itself.
Thanks for the video. Very nice panel detail. I am impressed with the neatness of the wiring. I work at a school district and you would be surprised at what kind of mess I find in the panels when I open one up. Very well done sir.
Nice walk through.
do you do electrical work?
Thank you so much for this video----it seems to be the only one on u tube that takes on this task that seems so difficult for the do it yur selfer-----I don't understand why someone hasn't posted a similar video much sooner---I just assumed electricians didn't want others to learn for job security ---which is why I think u r getting negative comments Thanks again and pls make more of these ---u have my subscription
Home Depot used to have a display of how to install a service.. Until non electricians began getting killed and the lawsuits started coming.
*****
6.000$ to replace a main electric board!!!!!!!!!!!
***** When I lived in cali(5-10 years ago) a 100 to 200 amp service upgrade was 4000-5000, now in arkansas area the same thing is 1000-1500(which will be going up starting next year when AR adopts 2014 code)
Because people burn houses down when they try to do something over their head like this. Leave it to the professionals.
Nice looking install. Two questions though, what are those connectors you're using to run the Romex through the panel and why did you double tap your ground and neutrals when you had the space to single tap them?
Double tap: He doesn't know any better.
Code only allows the equipment Ground Conductors to be double tapped , but NEVER a Neutral Conductor !!!!
Nicely done. I’m an electrical contractor 35 yrs in the trade and I would have no problem showing this video to my new helpers. I only have a few of my own personal things I like to do but that’s just how I’ve always done my panels. I tape my bare ground green helps to keep it from damage and oxidation. I also prefer to dress my mains last. More sore for replacement panels than new construction just has always been easier and a faster install for me. Big fan of a nice neat dress of a panel. One of my specialities, seems to be a dying art but glad to see it’s not dead. Ty
Can’t double tap neutral
American electricians are rough
Neat set up for ground wires and neutral wires.
Practice NOT touching the bus connection -break the habit.safety first..Wear gloves, you can get nasty cuts while making up panel boxes.
Nice video. Kindest Regards
i noticed you forgot the bushing on the 2" Romex Connector. Lol
red tag fail inspection
Super-clean, super knowledgeable, really appreciate the share!
Helpful information thank you for sharing !
Sure is a bunch of people with their own thoughts on this. Fact is, exactly what he did in this video is what is required in Florida. The NO-AL-OX is something that help keep the aluminum from oxidizing. (NO-AL-OX)!!! If an inspector doesn't see it used on any and all aluminum wire here, YOU FAIL.... What he was talking about with tightening the lugs very tight is because over time the aluminum will expand and contract AS WOULD COPPER, but copper at a much lower rate. If you don't tighten the shit out of the lugs on aluminum you WILL end up with an open over time. I proved this to a linesman from Florida Power some years ago. I had incoming voltage on my neutral. A little over 4V. He looked at me like I was purple when I told him it was coming in on the neutral. Had to prove it to him. Pulled the meter and sure as shit, still had 4 volts on the neutral. He tried to give me a ton of excuses and I proved him wrong until he finally pulled the meter.. Then I told him to open up the transformer and be ready to "TIGHTEN" the lugs. Told him to yell when he was ready, but I would tell him when he tightened the neutral lug. I opened the window to my bathroom and told him I was ready. I then told him my voltage on the plumbing just went up. Once again he thought I was fucking crazy. He came in and I proved that to him.. This dumb ass had done this job for 12 years and had no idea that a loose connection would bleed power off.. Once he tightened them all, I had him pull the neutral and I yelled to him when he did it. He then called in the engineers... To this day we still get zapped in the shower now and then.. It's been more than 8 years now. So make sure you tighten the shit out of your lugs especially the ones with aluminum wire....
I've watched other electrians and they said to never double up Neutrals.
they were right
Clean work, very nicely organized panel. One thing though: landing more than one neutral under a screw is a huge no-no. That should never be done.
Funny,,, i am Dutch electrician.
It's a little strange how different it is in my country in comparison.
In my local, we would not be able to land multiple neutrals under one screw, and the service entrance would require a plastic bushing on the wire connector. Did you install your bonding jumper screw, or is there another disconnect before the meter base?Overall, it looks like a nice, neat install.
DriverDude100 you're an electrician? ...look at the service cable and you should know if it needs a bond or not
The one thing that you should also do is "Load Calculation Landing" of the HOT
conductors{ 240vac/220vac DPST breakers @ the very bottom - so that you will
have alot of bar as HeatSink for A 120vac [ Blk.] & B 120vac [ Red ] phases.
Also separate the Constant duty from Intermediate duty SPST breakers & divide
as much of the LOAD between A & B{ I"ve seen older home Mains burn up one or
the other phase contacts -because of none Balance}.
Excellent 👍
I see a few mistakes:
- An insulation bushing is required to be installed on the SE clamp connector
- More than one neutral wire connected under one lug. Should be a single wire only
- All wires have to be tighten to the specified torque printed on the label in the panel.
i have never seen an electrical panel so neatly laid out in the placement of the wiring. Awesome job
LOL I know it, really nice and neat.. I have watched this video 3 or 4 times just because it is done so neat !
Very neat panel wiring job, thanks for sharing. Our home was wired in 1984 and it looks nothing like yours. Now to find a guy to come in and rerun the in panel wires to look clean and like a pro. Thanks for sharing.
Nice video, good job on that panel. Nice to work with quality panels like Sq D. Also nice to see someone who loves what he does so much he'll make a video of his work. This is when work becomes fun, and isn't work anymore. Electricians Rule!
In Canada we use B.X. and anti-shorts plus all lines run separately into the box wite wires are wrong
Thank you so much for the video really informative. So essentially the two single phase hot wires need to be secured along with your neutral and ground. Are the neutral and ground connected?
Great video! Very clean & neat install!!
Ontario, Canada installers take note! The ground wire goes to the Neutral bar to bond the Neutral to Ground. Then a green ground screw (factory installed) connects the grounded Neutral to the metal box. Electrical inspectors up here will reject the main grounding method shown in this video.
Also branch circuit wiring (yellow & orange shown here) CANNOT be run through the main breaker compartment for safety reasons. There is an exception to this allowed if there is a main disconnect switch ahead of this box near the meter box.
But YOU NEVER BOND the Neutral Conductor and the Equipment Ground Conductor in a SUB PANEL , ONLY at the Main Disconnect Panel of the System !!!!
Why do experts watch tutorials? Awesome job. Nice and neat. Thanks. It was a big help.
I agree, maybe there not certain themselves
experts, critics...theyr usually the same ppl....*chukl*
I can always learn new things and techniques, and in return, I may be able to pass my knowledge and experience on to others. That is why.
Really, complain that old pros like myself can't sit in a Waffle House and eat an omelette and watch a video? I had to look at the date it posted as things have changed in subsequent years. Not to bust him but to see if there was an idea or two he might have that I could use. Use your brain every day and it might not get too fuzzy in your later years.
Code violation- never land neutrals under same lug
One other thought here is that you Might state what State you are working in ...and maybe even the city, these methods might change from State to State and city to city.
Cleveland ohio had a rehab code...not as stringent as the current NEC manual. worked for me
The only time you can put neutral and ground wires in same bus bar is when panel is bonded. Normally in first means of disconnect. In older homes you will see tht a lot because you only have a 3 wire system . 2 hots and neutral. New homes now have 4 wire system. 2 hots neutral and ground. Or if you do an upgrade (4 wire system) inspector will look for neutral wires to be separate from ground wires. Which means you have to separate neutral wires and ground wires. hope this info helped.
did a very nice job on installation. 1 screw one neutral is code.
That what I was going the ask. One wire pre lug. One hole and screw can't have two wires in it.
Yeah thats what i was wondering what he was doing too.
Can only do that with grounds.
This is the first of your videos I have seen (if you actually have more, haven't checked). Compared to others' videos on UA-cam, this was the best so far. Looking forward to seeing more from you. One thing though, the Noalox is an anti-oxident that hinders corrosion on aluminum conductors.
Damn fine job sir. Don't let all these naysayers who probably own a 10-in-1, strippers, and a couple pairs of channel locks get you down. It's easy to do precision wire bends and make it "pretty" when you get paid by the hour. I've been doing this 25 years and I'd hire you in a minute!!! The only thing I see wrong is the double-lugging on the neutrals, ain't nuthing wrong with the rest!
*****... while I agree with you that this is totally inadequate... and he doesn't seem sure of what he is doing, making statements as questions... I will add, as I stated before, what the manufacturer allows isn't acceptable in Commercial or Industrial applications by any Inspector... Residential Codes must be different... I don't remember as I only did Resi work in my first year as an apprentice...
***** Wrong jurisdiction, but most of our code is identical to the US, or behind. Canadian Code says neutrals must be terminated in such a manner that they can be disconnected without interfering with other neutrals [4-028(d)]. Therefore, double landing is prohibited. It's dangerous because while I'm removing one circuit's neutral, and incidentally break contact on the other neutral, and that other neutral is shared between 2 phases, then I have made a floating neutral situation, putting the loads in series across 240V. That can be colossal failure if those 2 circuits were imbalanced and supplied expensive equipment. Law trumps manufacturer. Law may sometimes state "as per manufacturer", but manufacturers always state "install in accordance with local laws".
@@briankwahl Agreed. Double lugging is acceptable if the wires are the same size & style.
You are not allowed to work on a live panel. So how will removing one neutral affect a dead circuit? @@jamesmartin6958
@@lazaryanya9407 We don't wire things to what people are 'supposed' to do.
NEC new rule TORQUE everything including receptacles and keep track of notes in blueprints and signatures of Master electrician approval and verification according to laws and regs
What a pain in the ass.
I believe each neutral must be connected under its own terminal
it is code. and grounds also.
I also believe this guy is professionaly trained
@@jsparlin1grounds do not, actually.
What logical sense does this make?
@@fedfreds832 look at 110 3b then make your remark, because you don't know code
I noticed you put the "white" neutral wires together b4 screwing them in. I thought each neutral wire received its own screw by itself. no?
Don’t tighten it “hard”; tighten them to torque spec lol
Our house is 102 years old. I just came here to see what a tidy panel looks like. Squeaky-clean work, my sir!
Your house wiring is probably safer than his!!
Similar comment, 100+ yr old. Knob and tube with dangerous flying splices. Original branches ran everything, then sketchy upgrades over the years. Getting it neat is a relief
I've seen you put 2 neutrals under one set screw. I've always understood that to be a no no. You did clean panel work
He most likely will fail inspection my teacher gave us this video as a exam to see what he do wrong.
I bet you he didn’t fail, as an electrician I have seen much worse pass and be overlooked
Very nice and clean job.
I like you video Ryndon, you seem very enthusiastic and energetic, the kind of guy I would hire. If I may say, most electricians will pick apart a video of other electrician because they may think they know a lot. If you don't want to be one of those guys that gets knocked around by those know it all's, take a little time to learn a bit about wiring a panel board, or any thing for that matter. Understand what a service grounding conductor is used for and why the neutral and grounds are separated in a sub panel. Use the right terminology when referring to the ground terminals verses ground rods. Grounding conductors are not typically used for current caring conductors. There is some truth in most of the comments below, but don't take it too hard, there just trying to help. I noticed your panel was flush with the wall stud, I would set it out to the thickness of the wallboard you plan on installing, this will save you looking for longer screws to mount the cover panel. One last thing, double wiring grounds and neutrals is fronded upon, specially with the neutrals my friend. Stay Safe!!
Why don't u make a video to explain how to do everything correctly----or is there a diff videio u can recommend? im going to wire my own garage thx
Greg, as much as I would like too, the logistics alone would be more than I could handle, like video taping. Not to take away from Ryndon video, he actually did a pretty good job, it's to bad his video didn't show other aspects, like roping and make-up. If I may suggest-getting a self help book and study it. You may be able to find them on-line. If your able to video your project, by all means post them and I would be glad to help you in any way. Best to you.
look closely, his panel looks proud of the studs by a 1/2". great video. where I live you can only use EMT.
You're one of the nicest professional comments; offering honest well thought out reasoning to assist not tear down. I admire this about you sir; sign of a true journeyman.
Richard Thoma Illinois?
Thank you, this video was very helpful
You have all the room on those neutral bars why are you doubling up your neutrals?
Yeah. Same with the ground wires. It's a new installation. No need to do that as there's plenty of termination screws. Having individual wires would make it safer to work on later.
mrromantimothy why wouldn’t you?? Save room in the panel
@@fedfreds832 For safety reasons it's best to keep ALL terminations separate for future system maintenance.
How's that for a reason? Need more room, get a bigger panel!
Timbuck Too lmao for future doubling up neutrals will cause problems?? Sounds like something an apprentice would say😂😂if your gonna work on a lug with two different nuets then TURN BOTH BREAKERS OFF. It’s not fucking rocket science. Do you need help untwisting existing wires that were nutted together to Tim buck??
Timbuck Too also if it’s the main then doubling whites and greens is perfectly legal considering a regular 200 amp Siemens panel
I would like to see what the meter side looks like. Where to all 4 of those wires go? Mainly that bare ground wire.
Nice job mate, looks a tad different from our wiring in New Zealand!
First off you can use noalox or pentrox. Second if in Ontario you are no longer allowed to come through the top of your panel with anything besides your feed. They're are very few exceptions to this.
check the video 7min 38 sec. The national Electrical states only one conductor is permitted for each lug or termination point. You can't double up landing your wires. Other than that its a text book installation. Good job
NEC 408.21
"Exception: Grounded conductors of circuits with parallel conductors shall be permitted to terminate in a single terminal if the terminal is identified for connection of more than one conductor."
NEC 408.41 is an exception for "parallel conductors" as when you pull feeders in parallel to ease cost and difficulty pulling due to wire size (imagine pulling two 3/0 as the neutral (or "grounded") conductor for a 500 amp feeder). Needless to say, that implies the same circuit which means you placing neutrals from separate circuits under the same terminal is a plain violation of 408.41. Grounding electrodes (grounds) can be terminated under the same lug if rated. Guess you got some lax inspectors out there.
I have seen double lug terminal blocks. That may be what NEC 408 is referring to allowing multiple conductor termination.
Jim , Harry Darius Jr. Whitesell double lug is different from terminating to conductors under the same lug
Also missing bushing on his 2" Romex connector holding his SEC
do you have a follow up video showing how to put in those black turny offy things?
Little inaccuracies mislead your viewers. Nolox does nothing to impact expansion of AL wire. Its role is to limit oxidation (no ox) period. There is a torque rating for all of the connections - follow that, please don't just crank the heck out of your panel lugs.
well said
power companies don't use the stuff.
Don't you use antioxidant paste (or any isolation) for preventing corrosion between copper and aluminum electrical ground wires on the left side of this box?
I think it is worth mentioning that the panel has separate grounding bars because it is treated as a sub panel due to it being an extended service. Don't forget kickplates when the homeruns come closer than 1 1/4" to the face of the stud they are passing through.
was wondering where the bonding screw was!
Good observation. That is what I was wondering.
Another video said aluminum oxidizes and becomes flammable is that right?
You can have 100 electricians and a 100 different ways to do a job. It does not mean they are wrong just different.
Agreed
Did you get the bonding jumper?
WOW! 416 comments and mine makes 317.
Thank you for making this video and posting on youtube.
Please post more video's . Every one that see your video and then read all the posted comments below, will come away with something they didn't know. Great work done in making this video.
wait what
You may double tap the neutral if doing so allows disconnecting one of the conductors without breaking the path of the other. Probably not feasible.
Nalox is an antioxidant to keep your aluminum from oxidizing
PS I have never seen a cutter for Romex like that and I love the labelling idea it allows you to do, I'll have to look for one of those.
I'm a licensed electrician you did a good job but the main reason you hire a electrician is for insurance if you have an electrical fire when the insurance company investigates the will want to know what electrical contractor you used. No electrical contractor no money. Now if the load calls are right he is all good. But I would never recommend using aluminum wire. But as far as the application good job.
Tikonov Grenadiers Aluminum wire is used coming from the mast head.
Jim Dandy Thats because of cost plus your utility company knows how to work with it plus weight. Aluminum wire can cause fires if not properly installed.
Tikonov Grenadiers they can cancel; the ins., but they have to pay the owner,
The Awgster, Please tell that to the local power company that AL wire isn't worth anything. It gets stolen all the time such that they now have their name impressed on the wire so that only the company can recycle it.
dude...at 2.20 you skipped showing the wiring of those main wires....man
Homeline LOL
What size wire feeding the panel ?Nice work
This is a good video for those trying to understand wiring a panel. Well presented and clearly explained!
Except he brought home runs through the service entrance
Great video man! Very easy to follow.
You should mention in the video that you don't have power to this box and that you must never touch the bus!
highly agreed
Seriously? Come on man, Anyone that has half a brain would understand that there was no power running to the box, he did not need it hooked up to an artificial wall on the stage of the Doctors TV show to prove that, DAYM! If they did not then we should you tube the Idiot that didn't make sure there was no electricity I will provide the fricken popcorn and beer for that one LOL :)
I agree with James' decision to address the safety aspect of the job. You cant under emphasize the importance of all safety precautions. It happens that fast.
Do you have to state the bleeding obvious?
James de Seve if you don't know that already then you have zero business inside an electrical panel.
All the dislikes are electricians that wanted this job and didn’t get it
As a habit, you should NEVER touch the bus bars or lugs. Even if you know its not hot. Its the same law as
working with a gun. always consider the gun loaded. Practice the bus is always hot. Even when showing a video.
This Practice Saves Lives
Design4Building as a shooter, that sounds like a good idea to me. Habits can take you where you don't want to be.
Well said sir i totally agree.
Design4Building
Always use your fluke as well.
Yes... Treat a panel like a gun...It's always HOT.... Like the shank of your screwdriver when doing electrical work... Don't touch It...
yuck, so much busy work.
i am a little confused. i read in the NEC that the ground and neutral bus bar does NOT need to be separate in the mail panel but only sub panel. is this technically a subpanel fed from an exterior one?
Drill is the way to go save time and for ended money, and that drill he was using have a clutch, so how many of you are drilling holes on 2x4 with a manual drill ? Let the man use his drill to tie the screws who cares they got tie and he didn't strip any, video was great and high quality picture, you ain't a teacher why all you heaters want him to use terminology the only you guys can understand? Plain and simple is ok. I'm sure all the lights and outlets are going to work when you get done.
What about the neutral and ground bonding? The greeen screw? Or did I miss something?
nice work. very informative. I'm an electrician apprentice I've felt with this type of work for the past 7yrs. working on getting my electrical license. I appreciate your video
I noticed my Siemens panel has one, it's the only panel and the screw is not turned in. Leave it out or turn it in? Looks to me like it goes through the neutral bar so won't it be connecting the grounds on the box to the neutrals?
7:00 Im curious as to why the ground wires are not insulated, while all the other wires are?
As someone that doesn't know anything about electrical work, the incoming is aluminium?! Didn't we all decide aluminium was a bad idea for electrical wiring in the 70s? I figured in the 21st century, everything would be copper only?
Justin McCormick The aluminum you are thinking of is a different alloy than the one we see today which is a AA8800 series. The other big issue during that time (late 60's early 70's) was that the devices were not designed for the aluminum connection that also caused issues.
There is nothing wrong with using the modern aluminum wire and is used all the time without issue.
There's a lot of good aluminum wire they were talking 14-12-10 gage wire that stuff is very dangerous
In the 4 1/2 years I've been doing this stuff, in residential I've seen 80% of service entrance conductors are aluminum . In commercial, SE conductors are aluminum 95% of the
It's a little bit of a cheaper solution but it's not nearly as efficient as copper.
🏡🏡🏡😍😍🌺🌺💞💞🌹🌹👍👍🙋🙋👷🥰🥰💚💚🤩🤩❤️❤️😻😻🙋👍🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹👍👷
Nice job. Who doesn't have a few flaws? I'm not perfect. Your video shows people curious about electrical panels a good overview. I've seen some electrical veterans who wire up rats nest in their panels. I like people who take pride in their work.
Thank you for finally putting that out there. Everyone in the comments acts like a master electrician who has never made a mistake.
@@fnhwk lol everyone does that from time to time especially on the internet. I know, Im a Cardiothoracic and Neurosurgeon 😁
Nice panel job! Aluminum is nice to use for service entrance to save a bit of cost on the job. Aluminum does expand and contract more because it is a lighter metal than copper. The reason to use noalox is because it's an anti oxidant. Aluminum exposed to air and environment will form a hard coating of oxidation over time which makes it non conductive. Basically it becomes corroded and can lose connection. So the noalox is like a barrier to that. I have seen many of aluminum neutral conductors become oxidized, (when its in damp location) lose connection at main lug and cause voltages to spike through the electrical branch circuits and burn up equipment in the house because the electrician failed to apply the noalox. So, the aluminum is still going to expand and contract even when you apply noalox, but it will protect the aluminum from forming the oxidation layer which will cause connection to be inhibited at terminal point. If you read the instructions on bottle of using noalox you will see it says to first use a wire brush on the conductor end before applying the noalox and landing it at connection which almost nobody does. You were basically right but wanted to share what I have learned over the years.
OK everyone
1. he is a licenced electrician
2. his work has been, and in this case will BE INSPECTED
3. do you really think he would do something he is not permetted to do when he knows he WILL be inspected ??
4. perhaps everything does not match your area's code, but once again he is an licenced electrician who's work has been, and will be inspected each time, so what ever he is doing IS up to code in his area.
5. Final note Norway STFU running all 240v curcuits is a whole diff. program
6. OH, who ever got paid off to requir Aluminum wire should be jailed, inferior metal!
7. OH Ya, nice video !!
Tom Chrissy if that isn't a subpanel he needs to bond the neutral to the box.
I think the city electricity supplier provided the aluminum service cable, some counties and cities do this alot
There is nothing wrong with aluminum wire. Majority of houses have aluminum between the transformer and the meter, and between the meter and the panelboard. Many have aluminum wire between the stove and the panelboard as well.
There arent many inspectors out there that actually know what there doing.
zerocool5878 I it wasn't a sub-panel it wouldn't be fed with a 4-wire, and you can clearly see it's in an interior wall so it has to have a disconnect ahead of it somewhere-
i have seen some horrible jobs done in panels by these so called licensed Electricians And passed by city inspectors ....... i wonder how these people get their licenses and those good paying city jobs ....... you have done a commendable job in this video, just keep your neutrals separate...... you have plenty of lugs .... once again great neat job done .......
Maybe over kill but I would have put a plastic bushing on that service entrance cable. Good job M8.
Hey there, I am not licensed but have installed many panels under supervision. I was taught to use service loops on every thing but the ground wire, I live in Canada is this different in the US? This being a main panel the bonding screw between ground and neutral should be in place where as a sub panel should not. In Ontario I was taught that you were not to run load wires through the line wire compartment. Which never made sense to me as there are all the knockouts all in the same end?? Please explain!
Cheers Clinton