HOW TO REPLACE YOUR WHEEL BEARING IN 10 MINUTES (1995 Nissan D21)
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- Опубліковано 27 лип 2024
- EDIT: New Instagram name @pies_garage!
IG: pies_garage...
In this video I will be showing you how I replaced my1995 Nissan D21! (hardbody) inner and outer front wheel bearings as well as my front rotors and brake pads!
Instagram: / pies_garage
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I can honestly say this is the most informative video on this project. Thank you for uploading.
bro thank you so much for posting this video, by far the most in depth video for this truck 🤙🤙
Hell yeah, finally a good DIY info video on this. Gonna refer to this video when I do my bearings on my ‘88 pathy and ‘02 xterra. Thanks man.
Thank you for your time and energy I appreciate it very much
Thank you for making this video it helped me big time
Isn’t there a spec for how you reinstall the bearing retainer? You’d have to press it in “overtorqued” first, then give it a few rotations to seat everything, then back it off so you don’t axially load the bearings. But I can’t find the spec anywhere. Great vid. Thanks for all the other little tips.
Nice brake rotor. Very cool!
Nice video and visuals! The spinning threaded locker thing that wasn't tight needs to be torqued down to some value, then backed off to a lighter torque value.
I think it's to ensure you center the bearing all the way back correctly and then backing it out to the lesser torque value allows it to not be too tight and let the assembly spin freely, yet secure.
I do that on my 79 620 KC and then just shake the stuff out of the tire to feel play....been doing it that way for 36 yrs
Great tip, thanks! Mine was a pain to tighten property and got stuck several times - so I hacked together a U pronged tool to do it using two extra long Allen keys drilled through a bit of 2x4. Screwed in until tight, then backed off so the rotor wasn't rubbing on the rotor guard. Not pretty but got the job done.
I tourqued mine down all the way and left it. Should I back it back off?
@@jetfxr27 yes or the bearing won’t spin very freely and you risk prematurely wearing it. Check the manual. It has values for it done in the manner I stated above.
Good job, I will be using this video for reference when I get around to doing the same on mine.
Keep up the work bro.
I know Im kind of randomly asking but do anybody know a good place to watch newly released tv shows online ?
@Fabian Malcolm I use flixzone. You can find it by googling =)
@Fabian Malcolm try Flixzone. Just google for it =)
Thanks a million. I thought I was stretching it with my 1997 PU. Why do they keep running?
Hey do you have any videos on doing the valve cover on 3.0
Do u have a part number for all the parts used
Looking at this, I'm honestly thinking I should just replace my bearings while I'm replacing the rotors. Got the same truck (except in purple) so thank you for this vid!
Gotta make sure I'm on the same page now. I see you only replaced one bearing. I have two bearingsin the hub on the inside and outside of the axel. Did someone before me mess up or is your editing cut that out?
Is this the same procedure for the rear?
Was this a 2wd or 4x4
Well done
thank you mate
Thank you for the great video. AT 5:57 where the hub is connected back to the rotor, do you know the torque specfication on those six bolts?
49-69 N•m
No torque wrench needed? Thought it needed to be torqued to I think 60lbs? Maybe that's on later models...
Im replacing pads and rotors. I know i need to repack the inner bearing but do I need to remove the outer bearings in the rotor bracket if I don't plan on replacing them?
I was mistaken, the bearing race or raise or whatever its called is what im talking about
You don't have to remove the bearing race if you don't need to replace it. Just take the bearing out and repack it and you should be good to go!
You use your impact gun to bolt the rotor to the knuckle. I'd like to torque mine down with a wrench but am having a hard time getting leverage with the rotor/knuckle just on the ground like that. any tips? or is torquing not necessary
I would use a vise if you have one and if you're replacing the rotor anyway, you can just bite the vise on the rotors.
Maybe get a cheater pipe on the ratchet/breaker bar you’re using and get a sturdy screwdriver inside the rotor fins
Put the rotor back on. Put the Brake caliper bracket back on. Put a screw driver or punch in the middle of the rotor and spin until the screwdriver makes contact with the bracket. You can tourque them down and the screw driver holds the rotors still.
Pies, I am doing the same wheel bearing grease packing on my D21 but how can one tell if the bearing seal was all the way down?
I got it with a rubber hammer as shown in this video.
Thank god
Now do the rears in 10 minutes.....
Wheel bearing and rotor are the same thing?
Nope, the bearings sit inside a hub attached to the rotor
This was a 2wd right?
It's a 4wD
No bearing preset? Wtf. Didn't even tighten center lock nut
Whats the lock nut tourque spec.?
Bro put the bering in backwards then skipped lol