This guy is methodical and common-sensical... a good approach. Some cars have a small 'IAC' valve under the throttle body that needs cleaning for idle smoothout.... so be prepared to remove and clean yours (see other vids for YOUR car).
Thank you so much for posting!! This was easy to do in my ford and I noticed a tremendous difference in the way it runs. It’s a 2000 and I don’t think it has ever been cleaned. I started laughing when I drove it for the first time because it ran so well.
This really helped my truck.. it would turn on and stall right away .. so I guess the carbon was hard at first in the throttle body .. but once I drove it for a while it wouldn’t stall I’m guessing the carbon inside would get soft or gwey once hot and the throttle body would work better .. but even then I wasn’t satisfied so I did just this and it worked fine it even idled better .. oh and keep in mind no check engine light was on so I was going crazy and also stressing thinking I’m gonna spend money on parts that may and may not be.. but at the end a 5 dollar spray saved me thousands of dollars .. thank you for this video you saved me so much time and money
Thank you so much, I just started having issues with my throttle sticking a little every once in a while so this pretty much answered my questions as to what is going on. And it is simple enough that I can do it myself, (61 y o female here). I can't wait to get it cleaned and see how she runs afterwards. (Oh and you have a great smile ;)
Thank you so much, Letha!! and thanks for watching. I hope you see a good improvement when you do this. It always make a big difference in mine when I do it.
Thank you for this post. It was extremely helpful, especially the trick of propping open the throttle with a screwdriver. I had already replaced the IAC valve (which is a bitch to get to on a 98) but it was still idling at 2000. After I cleaned the butterfly/throttle body, it dropped down to 1000.
@@dwcoffey I got a 2000 F-150 stalling when I take turns at low rpm and I cant figure it out. You think cleaning up the throttle body and IAC will help? Ever seen that issue before?
Gonna try it on my 04 4.6, slight rough idle, it's Cats are cut and its been underground in a potash mine since 04 and came to the light last Monday, hopefully this helps and it's sluggish aswell. I'll post tomorrow how it goes
Thanks for watching, Robert! I have a 2003 Lariat 5.4L 2V...so far, 288,000 miles! I'm shooting for 300,000! :) Mine uses a little oil, doesn't smoke though and still purrs like a kitten. I can always tell when I need to clean the throttle body because the gas pedal will start sticking a little. Good luck and thanks again!
مني لكُم نصيحّة عربيّة ؛ لتنظيف الخآنــّـق ( ثرتّل throttle ) اللي في الخآنّق الكهربي الألكتروني نظآم سُق بالسلّك بدل المرّس ( الكيبّل ) الــ electronic throttle body valve خآنّق الهواء ( ثرتّل بدي throttle body ) بمدخّل جسد ( ثرتّل بدي throttle body ) ؛ مو ضروري تفُك الخآنّق throttle الـــ ( ثرتّل بدي throttle body ) خآرّج المُحرّك خليه مكآنُه وأتبع الخطوآت التآليّة ؛ 1 - أبداء ك؛ من غير ما تشغّل المُحرّك / حط مفتآح الأشعآل ( السوتش / أقنشّن سوتش ) على أون ON / ما قبل التشغيل لا تشغّل ( رّن RUN ) - 2 - وأدعّس دوآسّة البنزين / الوقود للصآنجـّة / للأخير ، 3 - وحُط عليها حجّر - طوب - أو طآبوقّة أو عصاء ثبتها بمقعّد / بكـُرسي السآئق حتى تمسّك دوآسّة البنرين للصآجــّـة / حتى تمسّك دوآسّة البنرين للصآجــّـة للأخير ،،، 4 - فك غطاء اللي فوق المُحرّك الغطاء البآغّة لتصل للخآنّق ( ثرتّل throttle ) وسوف تجّد الخآنّق مفتوح للأخـّر . لا تلمسُه قبل ما تطفىء مفتآح الأشعآل ،،، 5 - بعد ما تطفىء مفتآح الأشعآل لمنع الخآنّق ( ثرتّل throttle ) من الحركّة ،،، 7 - الآن /؛ نظـّـف الخآنّق ( ثرتّل throttle ) وووومدخل الهواء في جُرم الخآنّق في مدخـّل ( ثرتّل بدي throttle body ) . ؛ As I just said above in Arabic for electronic throttle body valve cleaning ; You don’t have to remove throttle body out to clean the throttle and air intake inside the throttle body ; you can follow these steps and use these proven steps ; 1 - put the ignition switch ON ((( don’t Run the engine ))) . 2 - Push the gas accelerator paddle all the way to the floor this will open the throttle body valve plate inside the throttle body wide open . 3 - Put a brick or stone or [ stick laying to driver seat ] to push and holding the gas accelerator paddle to the floor ,,, . 4 - Now turn ignition switch off this way will prevent the throttle body valve plate from moving or close during cleaning . Note ; tip if you turn ignition switch off You don’t have to disconnect battery 5 - remove the engine plastic cover . 6 - Now you will find throttle body valve plate inside the throttle body wide open . 7 - Now clean it and the air intake with ((( Only with throttle body cleaner or alcohol based cleaner ))) . Best regards . An Arab Engineer .
My ford 2002 f150Xl everytime I make a turn or stop the truck goes dead. But it easy to start back up.everybody tells me to clean my throttle body , what could be the problem?????
You said that you let the truck sit after cleaning, I have the CRC throttle body Kleen , it says to drive immediately after cleaning....depends which product you use or you just do it for your own personal taste?
Thanks for watching, Jim! I let it sit long enough for the cleaner to evaporate. In all fairness, that only takes a few seconds to a few minutes, because throttle body cleaner evaporates very quickly. If you have accumulated cleaner, or fumes still present when you crank it, you can get a backfire through the throttle body. So....I just like to let the cleaner evaporate completely to avoid that possibility. I probably let it sit longer than is necessary, but have not had a problem when using CRC Throttle Body Kleen, carb cleaner, etc.
@@dwcoffey truck runs great again..she turned off coming to the lights the night before...i sprayed the mass air flow sensor and the throttle bottle flap wasn't fully closed it had so much crap there...now she purrs at 600rpm at idle, shifts much smoother too
Thanks for watching! A lot of people will disagree with this, just because, but....in my opinion, you can use non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Be sure to let the throttle body air out well and make sure all fluid is evaporated before starting the engine. I'd prefer throttle body cleaner, simply because today's cars have a lot of plastic engine parts, and you never know how something will respond to different chemicals, but in a pinch, I'd do it.
Thanks for watching! I'm not familiar with the 6.2L, but I think it is similar....seems like the throttle body on it is more to the rear and vertical, rather than horizontal like this one. Cleaning process would be very much the same.
@@dwcoffey Thanks Dennis,yes they look similar except for some extra wires,and that it has a K&N filter and a Supercharger...assuming actual throttle body is same...only one way to find out..🤪👍
I never did need to clean mine, just needed to change the fuel pump 🤣 (some time had gone by before I had gotten the fuel pressure checked, so in the meantime I had changed plugs, wires, distributor cap n rotor, fuel filter & ignition coil....all to find out I needed a pump after all😅 whatever, won't hurt to have all new of what I did anyway 🤷😅 now I've gotta replace a brake line🎉💃💃💃💃😅🙄😅
Thanks for watching, Ron! I'm not familiar with that engine, but if it is setup relatively the same way and you can get access to the throttle body, the cleaning process is the same.
I have used seafoam in my tank and it seems to help. But eventually, a good throttle body cleaning is all that will do the job. Usually some light scrubbing is required to get it cleaned.
Thanks fro watching, Jay! Yes sir....it's amazing how much difference I see when I do this. I'm at 311,200 miles on mine so far and still running great!
Thank You very much, Dennis, for the informative video I am 17 and I own a 2002 ford f-150 and I noticed it idled a little rough. When I took the air intake off there was so much carbon build-up. After I cleaned it all out it ran like a new truck Thanks again for the video👍👍
Thank you very much for this priceless DIY tip. A few nights ago I was traveling on the highway, was halfway between two small towns. I passed a vehicle, so I was going approximately 65 mph. I maintained that speed until I was approaching the next town. When I took my foot off the gas pedal and attempted to brake, the throttle was stuck at 65 mph. Nothing that I attempted worked to alleviate the rapidly developing emergency, and am now in the city limits, on an icy pavement, and only 4-5 blocks from a T- intersection stop sign. As a last resort I shifted the Expedition into neutral, while hoping for the best and praying for my 15 year old daughter that was with me. I was miraculously able to safely stop in time for the stop sign without any damage to the drivetrain. I managed to pull into a convenience store lot, and after 20-30 minutes the situation was normal again. But how I made it through without accident, injury, or death in just a matter of a few seconds, could only be possible with the help of a Guardian Angel. And I’ll always be beyond thankful for that...
Thanks Dennis, very thorough and practical. This is perfect for begginers and intermidiate DIY'rs. I was looking on here for a video to share with a friend having truck issues and rather than making an hour drive out to his place it'll save me some gas. By sending him your video will probably save him a lot of money as well. Two thumbs up👍👍for your video sir.
I just picked up a 4.6. This looks like a good place to start before moving on to things like plugs/injectors. the truck that I picked up seems okay cruising(still a little chuggy) but this will be a great starting point+mass air flow sensor cleaner. I really like my Expedition 5.4 even though people shit talk them and the 4.6 in Crown Vics have been known to reach 300,000 miles.
I'm with you, Christopher. My F150 has the 2V 5.4L and I have 280k miles on it. I clean it out every so often, I've changed the coils and plugs. I'm probably going to have to look at the injectors soon as it is turning over 3 or 4 times before it starts, rather than it's usual 1-2 times. Thanks for watching sir!
@@dwcoffey My F-150 has a gas smell to the exhaust. It starts up just fine and the RPM's don't ever fluctuate, but it rattles on the inside like a helicopter. After checking everything over this morning, I am confident and did find a rather large amount of oil on the pass. side valve cover but you know some leaks are so damn hard to track down. It is black oil though so we'll see. I think I have a good one though and the guy before me only used it for a back and forth daily driver. It has 139,000 miles and that's why I'm taking the chance. I don't know, and I know people dog on us Ford guys but my Expedition 5.4 is a low-end torque beast and I named it 'Bear' after painting it black. I just like Ford trucks and that's not to Hate the others(I'm not a hater and know that GM makes reliable engines), my brother has a '07 Silver a Don't and he has never worked it but aside from the motor, it is starting to fall ill. My F-150 is 17 years old and the Bear is 18. I could care less about dents. lol Ford's=Work Chevy=prance Dodge=Pulling
I heard you should use throttle body cleaner not carb cleaner. I guess it’s less harmful to the electronic system. I can’t say for sure either way but as long as you don’t ruin the electronics you should be good to go
Thanks for watching, Mike! Carb cleaner won't hurt anything, I basically use it because I'm more likely to have it on hand. The main difference between throttle body cleaner and carb cleaner is that throttle body cleaner is better at removing carbon buildup where carb cleaner is aimed more at removing varnish. So using carb cleaner just makes you work a little harder. Throttle body cleaner is definitely preferable since it will clean the throttle body easier and better.
Spray cleaner on the rag so the junk isn't going into the engine by spray blast . Then wipe around, all the junk will stick to rag , 100% safer. God bless
Carb cleaner and throttle body cleaner are not the same thing. Carb cleaner leaves a lubricating residue and if it gets on sensors it can cause them to pop a code just the same as if they were dirty. Now that being said I do the same shit.
Do not use carb cleaner for this job. Use throttle body cleaner. They are not the same thing. Carb cleaner is much stronger, and will eat a special coating inside the TB. Use the right product for the job. Use TB cleaner.
Thank you for watching! That will definitely work, but most people are not going to remove the throttle body. This gets it done well enough to fix most build up problems. You'd be surprised at how much it gets out.
Youre not supposed to do that manual manipulation with an electronic ignition. It throws the timing off. Throttle body timing, not the engine timing. Its okay with one like this, I guess.
Hi i have a 2000 ford f150 starts fine but when in drive it ok when coming to a stop it stays stuck at 200/2500 rpm i throw it in neutral it revs than drops to 600rpm i put back in drive while im stopped it stays 600 rpm i press the gas it goes back to 2000 rpm
Thanks for watching, Pierre! I'd start with cleaning the throttle body as it may be sticking. If that doesn't fix it, I'd look and the throttle position sensor.
My BlueDriver scan tool was showing 20% throttle position at idle so I cleaned my throttle plate but it didn't help. My throttle plate wasn't nearly as dirty as yours was. Anyway, do I have a bad throttle sensor or is there something else that could be causing this problem? As near as I can tell, the throttle plate completely closes with the engine off and it doesn't look like the linkage is opening the plate with the engine running at idle. Besides, an actual physical 20% would be obvious. The scan tool does show an increase in throttle opening with acceleration. This is a 2002 Mustang GT. Idle is 550 RPM at operating temperature with the transmission in Drive. The only issue I see is poor fuel economy at 14.5 MPG driving around town. The sticker (yes I still have it) says I should get 17 MPG in city driving but it did indicate that the range is 14 to 20.
Thanks for watching! Are you getting any OBDII codes? I'd guess the throttle sensor might be your next best target. I'd also think your mpg should be a littler better than you are seeing. MPG will go down with age and miles it seems, but 14.5 sounds low.
@@dwcoffey No OBD codes. The voltages that I measured at the sensor are OK so I'm assuming that the sensor is OK. The voltage when the plate is closed is 0.985VDC which is 21.3% of the input voltage of 4.977VDC. As for MPG, sometimes it drops below 14 MPG. Yesterday I calculated 12.9 MPG. I guess I should stop hotrodding it?
Thank you for watching, Stacey! It will be very similar. There are a few differences, like how the cold air intake attaches, but if you are comfortable working on things, this video will be a good guide and you'll be able to figure out the details. There's not a ton of difference. Take photos of everything before you take it apart, that will help greatly in getting it all back together.
Just cleaned mine out and am going to wait 45 minutes + ...before I cleaned my truck started to chug and then stall at lights... Any idea? The last guy had a K&N intake on it.
@@dwcoffey it definitely helped. I also switched out the cannister purge valve. Which also aided. Now it doesn't stall at red lights, now it only has an issue when I'm at a turn and I have to step on the accelerator to inch forward ever couple of seconds to keep up with the cars moving forward. I'm going to try the throttle position sensor next.
My 2001 f150 4.6 has been giving me an egr code. I've tried cleaning, then replacing the egr valve but the check engine light still comes on. I'll try cleaning the throttle body to see if that does the trick. Got a feeling that it's been a throttle body issue all along
If its throwing an egr code, you are going to want to pull the throttle body off. There are two ports on the inside of the throttle body that allow the exhaust gas coming from the egr to re enter the intake. They clog shut and will throw and egr insufficient flow code.
Gunna be taking my intake apart on my 98 Vic again later today. Gunna try cleaning entire intake and hope it fixes my issue. I have replaced egr valve, intake manifold, coils, plugs, fuel pump/filter, IAC valve. Still have this crazy jerk like I’m turning the key on and off when I accelerate past 1/4 throttle. Have to pull over and restart the car. Sometimes that helps for a couple minutes sometimes it doesn’t. I’m lost though…
You are correct. The one I showed in the video is a 2003 2V 5.4. The 2005 is a bit different, once you remove the cover and cold air intake, the throttle body is vertical. You can clean it the same way though. Thanks for watching, John!
I took mine it was bad in the two line behind where the egr valve is connected if you have a bad stallin poor idle and no power when you change the speeds and no run ups hills I recommend remove the trottle body also check iac valve and egr valve I have 2004 Ford Expedition 4.6
Thanks for watching Mario. Most people aren't going to take the throttle body off but can accomplish a cleaning this way. It will not hurt a thing. Even if you do have loose carbon (not likely as it is being put into suspension by the cleaner and removed by the cleaning), it's going to go right out the exhaust valves. I've done this for years as have many other people. My current truck has 307,000 miles on it and I've never been into the engine.
Thanks for watching! With mine, I typically notice when the gas pedal gets a little 'sticky.' I'll start to feel a catch in the pedal, especially as I first press it down. Once I notice that, it is time to clean the throttle body. If it gets worse than that, the engine will not run as smooth. I suppose it's possible that your symptoms could indicate the need to clean the throttle body, but honestly, sounds like a different problem. Cleaning the throttle body won;t hurt anything though and may help you determine the cause of your issue.
@@dwcoffey well.. I seemed to have figured it out . Bottle opener on my key chain caught my shorts as I started to press the brake and in doing so turned my ignition to the off position
It's ok to start the vehicle right after spraying throttle body cleaner. You can also start the vehicle and spray straight through that small hole I'm the plate. Which will help clean the rest of the intake. Also EGR valve and IAC I think, but I been cleaning minds that way for about two years now.
I was afraid to do it myself but it was actually pretty easy I used your method there are other videos to tell you to take the whole thing off. Mine was absolutely filthy to rags completely covered in black. although I was thinking without taking it off I may not have gotten all of the carbon. I let it sit for rest of the afternoon but when I started it up it still didn’t sound right and the check engine code came back after about a half hour P0401. not sure how I could share the photos I took a before and after. Looking for suggestions what to do next
Thanks for watching, Andrew! The P0401 code is an EGR code. Your EGR valve may be clogged. I know what you mean about how dirty they get....it's amazing how much carbon builds up. You can take the throttle body off to clean it, in fact, that is the dealer-recommend method. I've used this method for years on multiple vehicles and never had a problem. Not sure what you are working on, but I'd try cleaning the EGR valve, if you have a line going to it, flush that line. That should take care of it.
@@dwcoffey Thank you for this but I’m bringing it to my local yokel it looks too involved for me I was impressed I was able to clean the throttlebody with your how to video though
Hi Tom, thanks for watching! I've never used anything but carburetor cleaner. I would recommend only using choke or carburetor cleaner. I'd be concerned about negative reactions with various components using anything else.
@@TheAnchondo13 I never had a check engine light. The engine was idling rough so I cleaned the throttle body and the MAF sensor but that didn't fix the rough idle. It turned out to be the spark plugs.
@@joevignolor4u949 I was wondering why the rough idle...thanks for the info. I haven't done a spark plug change since I got the truck so I will def get that done.
This guy is methodical and common-sensical... a good approach. Some cars have a small 'IAC' valve under the throttle body that needs cleaning for idle smoothout.... so be prepared to remove and clean yours (see other vids for YOUR car).
Thank you so much Doug, I appreciate you watching and the kind comment. Very good advice as well! Thank you!
Thank you so much for posting!! This was easy to do in my ford and I noticed a tremendous difference in the way it runs.
It’s a 2000 and I don’t think it has ever been cleaned. I started laughing when I drove it for the first time because it ran so well.
Thanks for watching, Michael. It's amazing how much better they will run with this done. I'm glad it helped you!
@@dwcoffey hi. What is that cable next to the throttle cable Mine has broke and having a hard time finding another
@@mikesan247 Cruise Control
Nice this is what I’m hoping for in my 03 gonna clean it tomorrow
Awesome video, man. I have a 2003 Expedition and I don't think the throttle valve has ever been cleaned at all; will work on it this week. Thanks!
Thanks for watching, Tang! I always see an improvement in mine when I do this....so far I have 306,500 miles on my F150.
This really helped my truck.. it would turn on and stall right away .. so I guess the carbon was hard at first in the throttle body .. but once I drove it for a while it wouldn’t stall I’m guessing the carbon inside would get soft or gwey once hot and the throttle body would work better .. but even then I wasn’t satisfied so I did just this and it worked fine it even idled better .. oh and keep in mind no check engine light was on so I was going crazy and also stressing thinking I’m gonna spend money on parts that may and may not be.. but at the end a 5 dollar spray saved me thousands of dollars .. thank you for this video you saved me so much time and money
Thanks for watching, Jesus! I'm really glad this helped you. I'm always amazed at how much better my truck runs after I do this.
Made it look pretty simple and with step by step with great tips, awesome 👍🏿
I just did this to my pick up and it feels like I have twice the horsepower thanks for the video!!!!
Thanks for watching! I love it when I do this on mine....it always runs better!
Twice the horsepower lol dude come on
My dude taking shit way too literal as most do😂
Thank you so much, I just started having issues with my throttle sticking a little every once in a while so this pretty much answered my questions as to what is going on. And it is simple enough that I can do it myself, (61 y o female here). I can't wait to get it cleaned and see how she runs afterwards. (Oh and you have a great smile ;)
Thank you so much, Letha!! and thanks for watching. I hope you see a good improvement when you do this. It always make a big difference in mine when I do it.
Thanks Dennis, works perfectly 👌, hi five from Mexicali, Mexico.
Fantastic! Thanks for watching, Cesar!
Thank you for this post. It was extremely helpful, especially the trick of propping open the throttle with a screwdriver. I had already replaced the IAC valve (which is a bitch to get to on a 98) but it was still idling at 2000. After I cleaned the butterfly/throttle body, it dropped down to 1000.
I'm glad this helped! It is always amazing to me how much better mine runs after I do this. Thanks for watching!
@@dwcoffey I got a 2000 F-150 stalling when I take turns at low rpm and I cant figure it out. You think cleaning up the throttle body and IAC will help? Ever seen that issue before?
Excellent display. Thanks Dennis
I have a 5.4 without power and wont go over 10 mph.
Thanks for watching, Dean! I hope this helped!
Pull the plugs,makes life easier,love it
Hell yea thnx for the video
Thanks for watching, Vincent!
Thank you for your video. Short and right to the point.
Thanks for watching, Alan!
Gonna try it on my 04 4.6, slight rough idle, it's Cats are cut and its been underground in a potash mine since 04 and came to the light last Monday, hopefully this helps and it's sluggish aswell. I'll post tomorrow how it goes
Thanks for watching, Seth! Yes, please let me know if it improves...it should help it.
Keep posting on 5.4 by the way I have a 98! Thank you!
Will do! Mine is an '03, still going strong at 320,000 miles! Thanks for watching, Rigo!
Thanks for the video. I'll try it on my 2002 f150xlt with 277,000 miles.
Thanks for watching, Robert! I have a 2003 Lariat 5.4L 2V...so far, 288,000 miles! I'm shooting for 300,000! :) Mine uses a little oil, doesn't smoke though and still purrs like a kitten. I can always tell when I need to clean the throttle body because the gas pedal will start sticking a little. Good luck and thanks again!
Thanks for sharing, will clean mine too 👍👍
Thanks for watching, John! I always notice a big difference in how mine runs when I clean the throttle body.
Thank you for a genius tip screwdriver with rag clean
Thank you for watching, Alejandro!
Hey
This worked for my 2014 f 150 xlt 5.0 flexfuel
Thanks for watching, Tony! I'm glad it worked...I'm always amazed at the difference when I clean mine.
I appreciate this video & your style. Thx!
Thank you very much! I appreciate you watching!
Your audio is amazing
Thank you! I think I used my lapel mic for this video, it is my favorite. Thanks for watching!
Awesome video man, great work 👍👍
Thank you so much for watching!
مني لكُم نصيحّة عربيّة ؛
لتنظيف الخآنــّـق ( ثرتّل throttle ) اللي
في الخآنّق الكهربي الألكتروني
نظآم سُق بالسلّك بدل المرّس ( الكيبّل )
الــ electronic throttle body valve
خآنّق الهواء ( ثرتّل بدي throttle body )
بمدخّل جسد ( ثرتّل بدي throttle body ) ؛
مو ضروري تفُك الخآنّق throttle
الـــ ( ثرتّل بدي throttle body ) خآرّج
المُحرّك خليه مكآنُه وأتبع الخطوآت التآليّة ؛
1 - أبداء ك؛ من غير ما تشغّل المُحرّك /
حط مفتآح الأشعآل ( السوتش / أقنشّن سوتش )
على أون ON / ما قبل التشغيل لا تشغّل ( رّن RUN ) -
2 - وأدعّس دوآسّة البنزين / الوقود للصآنجـّة / للأخير ،
3 - وحُط عليها حجّر - طوب -
أو طآبوقّة أو عصاء ثبتها بمقعّد / بكـُرسي
السآئق حتى تمسّك دوآسّة البنرين للصآجــّـة /
حتى تمسّك دوآسّة البنرين للصآجــّـة للأخير ،،،
4 - فك غطاء اللي فوق المُحرّك
الغطاء البآغّة لتصل للخآنّق ( ثرتّل throttle )
وسوف تجّد الخآنّق مفتوح للأخـّر .
لا تلمسُه قبل ما تطفىء مفتآح الأشعآل ،،،
5 - بعد ما تطفىء مفتآح الأشعآل
لمنع الخآنّق ( ثرتّل throttle ) من الحركّة ،،،
7 - الآن /؛
نظـّـف الخآنّق ( ثرتّل throttle )
وووومدخل الهواء في جُرم الخآنّق
في مدخـّل ( ثرتّل بدي throttle body ) .
؛ As I just said above in Arabic
for electronic throttle
body valve cleaning ;
You don’t have to remove
throttle body out to clean the
throttle and air intake inside
the throttle body ;
you can follow these steps
and use these proven steps ;
1 - put the ignition switch ON
((( don’t Run the engine ))) .
2 - Push the gas accelerator paddle all the way to
the floor this will open the throttle body valve
plate inside the throttle body wide open .
3 - Put a brick or stone or
[ stick laying to driver seat ]
to push and holding the gas
accelerator paddle to the floor ,,, .
4 - Now turn ignition switch off this way will
prevent the throttle body valve plate
from moving or close during cleaning .
Note ; tip
if you turn ignition switch off
You don’t have to disconnect battery
5 - remove the engine plastic cover .
6 - Now you will find throttle body valve plate
inside the throttle body wide open .
7 - Now clean it and the air intake with
((( Only with throttle body cleaner
or alcohol based cleaner ))) .
Best regards .
An Arab
Engineer
.
Thanks for watching and thanks for that tip!
شكراً المساعدة
My ford 2002 f150Xl everytime I make a turn or stop the truck goes dead. But it easy to start back up.everybody tells me to clean my throttle body , what could be the problem?????
Thanks for watching, Tommy! Yes, that could be the problem.
You said that you let the truck sit after cleaning, I have the CRC throttle body Kleen , it says to drive immediately after cleaning....depends which product you use or you just do it for your own personal taste?
Thanks for watching, Jim! I let it sit long enough for the cleaner to evaporate. In all fairness, that only takes a few seconds to a few minutes, because throttle body cleaner evaporates very quickly. If you have accumulated cleaner, or fumes still present when you crank it, you can get a backfire through the throttle body. So....I just like to let the cleaner evaporate completely to avoid that possibility. I probably let it sit longer than is necessary, but have not had a problem when using CRC Throttle Body Kleen, carb cleaner, etc.
@@dwcoffey truck runs great again..she turned off coming to the lights the night before...i sprayed the mass air flow sensor and the throttle bottle flap wasn't fully closed it had so much crap there...now she purrs at 600rpm at idle, shifts much smoother too
Nice!!
Great video
Thanks Tommy!
Awesome video thank u so much so helpfull
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for this video it really helped
Thank you for watching, Jerry! I appreciate it .
Great job 👍
Thanks for watching, Roger!
Great video, thanks!
Thank you! I appreciate you watching!
Thank you for this info. I cant find this video for a '09-'14 4.6. Is this basically the same strategy? Thank you
Yes, almost all throttle bodies will be similar, so you can use the same basic procedure. Thanks for watching!
@@dwcoffey i appreciate it kind sir! I did what your video said and now my truck is responsive again. Thanks!
Saludos cordiales Denis excelente información
Gracias por ver. Thank you for watching and for the kind comment!
Is brake cleaner too aggressive?
Thanks for watching! A lot of people will disagree with this, just because, but....in my opinion, you can use non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Be sure to let the throttle body air out well and make sure all fluid is evaporated before starting the engine. I'd prefer throttle body cleaner, simply because today's cars have a lot of plastic engine parts, and you never know how something will respond to different chemicals, but in a pinch, I'd do it.
Does the battery have to be disconnected before ?
Thanks for watching, Rafael! No, you don't have to disconnect the battery.
Thanks
Thank you for watching!!
Thank you sir.
Thanks for watching, Jack!
Still not the longest,
But long enough.....
That what she said.
LOL!! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video
Thanks for watching, David!
Well it work on a navigator?
Thanks for watching! Yes, it sure will!
Awesomeness!
Thanks again!
Work for a 6.2 / 2014 SVT Raptor also?
Thanks for watching! I'm not familiar with the 6.2L, but I think it is similar....seems like the throttle body on it is more to the rear and vertical, rather than horizontal like this one. Cleaning process would be very much the same.
@@dwcoffey Thanks Dennis,yes they look similar except for some extra wires,and that it has a K&N filter and a Supercharger...assuming actual throttle body is same...only one way to find out..🤪👍
There ya go! Time to dig in! LOL!
Thankyou!😊
Thank you for watching, Colette!
I never did need to clean mine, just needed to change the fuel pump 🤣 (some time had gone by before I had gotten the fuel pressure checked, so in the meantime I had changed plugs, wires, distributor cap n rotor, fuel filter & ignition coil....all to find out I needed a pump after all😅 whatever, won't hurt to have all new of what I did anyway 🤷😅 now I've gotta replace a brake line🎉💃💃💃💃😅🙄😅
What is that wire harness you’re talking about connected to the air vent thing
At 1:50
Thanks for watching, Cameron! Its the IAT, Intake Air Temperature Sensor wire.
@@dwcoffey ok thanks for providing the info and keep up the good work
How about a 2015 3.5 v6.... non ecoboost?
Thanks for watching, Ron! I'm not familiar with that engine, but if it is setup relatively the same way and you can get access to the throttle body, the cleaning process is the same.
You ever tried using seafoam in there while it's running? Been thinking of trying it.
I have used seafoam in my tank and it seems to help. But eventually, a good throttle body cleaning is all that will do the job. Usually some light scrubbing is required to get it cleaned.
Actually sea foam makes a top engine and lube cleaner. Good stuff comes wit a handy curved spray strawed
@@joshbacino4975 sweet! I’ll have to try it. Thanks Josh.
Thanks Dennis. Sticky pedal and bad gas mileage
Thanks fro watching, Jay! Yes sir....it's amazing how much difference I see when I do this. I'm at 311,200 miles on mine so far and still running great!
Instead of a wrapped screwdriver, you can use the handle of a wooden spoon.
That would work! Thanks for watching!
Don't do it on a hot engine. That stuff can catch fire. How do I know? You guessed it.
Yea, that's a good way to see some fireworks up close! I hope all is well, thanks for watching!
the best way to learn something is the hard way
SHOW US ..plzzz
Thanks for watching!
You need a throttle body "Swiffer" for auto's..hmmmm, a "Thrifter"!
LOL! Sounds like a great invention and name! Thanks for watching, Bob!
Excellent point, "As a matter of safety, let the cleaner dry out."
Yes sir! Nobody needs an unplanned explosion! haha. Thank you for watching!
Thank You very much, Dennis, for the informative video I am 17 and I own a 2002 ford f-150 and I noticed it idled a little rough. When I took the air intake off there was so much carbon build-up. After I cleaned it all out it ran like a new truck
Thanks again for the video👍👍
Thank you for watching, Micah! I'm glad this helped. Whenever I clean mine, it's amazing how much difference it makes!
Really appreciate the breaking it down so us non mechanic people can understand it.. going to tackle mine now with confidence. Once again man, thanks
Thank you for watching, James! I'm sure you'll do a great job!
Thank you very much for this priceless DIY tip. A few nights ago I was traveling on the highway, was halfway between two small towns. I passed a vehicle, so I was going approximately 65 mph. I maintained that speed until I was approaching the next town. When I took my foot off the gas pedal and attempted to brake, the throttle was stuck at 65 mph. Nothing that I attempted worked to alleviate the rapidly developing emergency, and am now in the city limits, on an icy pavement, and only 4-5 blocks from a T- intersection stop sign. As a last resort I shifted the Expedition into neutral, while hoping for the best and praying for my 15 year old daughter that was with me. I was miraculously able to safely stop in time for the stop sign without any damage to the drivetrain. I managed to pull into a convenience store lot, and after 20-30 minutes the situation was normal again. But how I made it through without accident, injury, or death in just a matter of a few seconds, could only be possible with the help of a Guardian Angel. And I’ll always be beyond thankful for that...
Wow, Michael, I'm also thankful nothing bad happened and you are both safe! I hope this video helps with the problem, thank you for watching!
An old, toothbrush works great for these types of jobs.
Great idea!! Thnaks for watching!
a cheap toothbrush taped well to a stout dowel lets you reach the back side of the butterfly tube...
Word is that an in-laws toothbrush removes 2x the build up.
I use my wife’s
Should I clean my intake tube as well? I change my filter pretty often but I figure that’s got to be dirty as well right?
Thank you Dennis, for taking the time to pass on your experience and tip's. So greatly appreciated!
Thank you for watching, Russ!! I really appreciate it!
Thanks Dennis, very thorough and practical. This is perfect for begginers and intermidiate DIY'rs. I was looking on here for a video to share with a friend having truck issues and rather than making an hour drive out to his place it'll save me some gas. By sending him your video will probably save him a lot of money as well. Two thumbs up👍👍for your video sir.
Thank you so much, Roger! I'm glad this helped, and I appreciate you watching!
Sometimes the idle air control valve could use a cleaning too, gasket can be brittle so be careful when removing the IAC
Thanks for watching and thanks for the tips Jim! I appreciate it!
Very detailed! I feel confident that I can do it (I am female and not mechanically inclined)
I'm sure you'll do a great job! Thanks for watching!
I just picked up a 4.6. This looks like a good place to start before moving on to things like plugs/injectors. the truck that I picked up seems okay cruising(still a little chuggy) but this will be a great starting point+mass air flow sensor cleaner. I really like my Expedition 5.4 even though people shit talk them and the 4.6 in Crown Vics have been known to reach 300,000 miles.
I'm with you, Christopher. My F150 has the 2V 5.4L and I have 280k miles on it. I clean it out every so often, I've changed the coils and plugs. I'm probably going to have to look at the injectors soon as it is turning over 3 or 4 times before it starts, rather than it's usual 1-2 times. Thanks for watching sir!
@@dwcoffey My F-150 has a gas smell to the exhaust. It starts up just fine and the RPM's don't ever fluctuate, but it rattles on the inside like a helicopter. After checking everything over this morning, I am confident and did find a rather large amount of oil on the pass. side valve cover but you know some leaks are so damn hard to track down. It is black oil though so we'll see. I think I have a good one though and the guy before me only used it for a back and forth daily driver. It has 139,000 miles and that's why I'm taking the chance. I don't know, and I know people dog on us Ford guys but my Expedition 5.4 is a low-end torque beast and I named it 'Bear' after painting it black. I just like Ford trucks and that's not to Hate the others(I'm not a hater and know that GM makes reliable engines), my brother has a '07 Silver a Don't and he has never worked it but aside from the motor, it is starting to fall ill. My F-150 is 17 years old and the Bear is 18. I could care less about dents. lol Ford's=Work Chevy=prance Dodge=Pulling
Hey bud got the same Expedition cleaning the throttle body and MAs sensor worked out for you
I heard you should use throttle body cleaner not carb cleaner. I guess it’s less harmful to the electronic system. I can’t say for sure either way but as long as you don’t ruin the electronics you should be good to go
Thanks for watching, Mike! Carb cleaner won't hurt anything, I basically use it because I'm more likely to have it on hand. The main difference between throttle body cleaner and carb cleaner is that throttle body cleaner is better at removing carbon buildup where carb cleaner is aimed more at removing varnish. So using carb cleaner just makes you work a little harder. Throttle body cleaner is definitely preferable since it will clean the throttle body easier and better.
Spray cleaner on the rag so the junk isn't going into the engine by spray blast . Then wipe around, all the junk will stick to rag , 100% safer. God bless
Great idea! Thanks for watching, Chuck!
Just go through and clean everything every so often and youre good to go. Intake, egr, maf, iac, etc
Yes, good advice! Thanks for watching!
How so.... ? I have a 2015 3.5 standard v6
Carb cleaner and throttle body cleaner are not the same thing. Carb cleaner leaves a lubricating residue and if it gets on sensors it can cause them to pop a code just the same as if they were dirty. Now that being said I do the same shit.
Very good point Dave.....and yea, me too! :) Thanks for watching!
Do not use carb cleaner for this job. Use throttle body cleaner. They are not the same thing. Carb cleaner is much stronger, and will eat a special coating inside the TB. Use the right product for the job. Use TB cleaner.
Southern offroad. Excellent point. I was thinking the very same thing. Great video. 👍👍👍
12 ga shotgun brush and swab work very well!
Thanks for watching, Layne! That is a great idea!!!
I just unbolted my whole throttle body and cleaned it like that.. when your doing it like this it don't really get all the carbon buildup
Thank you for watching! That will definitely work, but most people are not going to remove the throttle body. This gets it done well enough to fix most build up problems. You'd be surprised at how much it gets out.
My question is if I wash the thottle body it is deprogrammed my truck is Ford F150 1997 4.6 engine
Thanks for watching! No, this will not affect programming on your truck.
Thank you so much for this quick and informative process 🙏. You were great 👍😃
Thank you for watching, Eli!
Thought this was Chuck Lidell for a second
LOL! Thank you for watching!
Great video
Thank you ! I appreciate you watching!
Youre not supposed to do that manual manipulation with an electronic ignition. It throws the timing off. Throttle body timing, not the engine timing. Its okay with one like this, I guess.
Thanks for watching! It won't hurt the 4.6 or the 5.4L Ford modular engines.
Thank You Sir
Thank you for watching!
What are the 2 lines/hoses you pulled at 2:08? More importantly, the bottom hose.Thanks.
Thanks for watching! The top hose goes to the IAC (Intake Air Control valve) and the bottom hose goes to the PCV.
Thank you Sir for that great video and information.
Thanks for watching, Rick!
Hi i have a 2000 ford f150 starts fine but when in drive it ok when coming to a stop it stays stuck at 200/2500 rpm i throw it in neutral it revs than drops to 600rpm i put back in drive while im stopped it stays 600 rpm i press the gas it goes back to 2000 rpm
Thanks for watching, Pierre! I'd start with cleaning the throttle body as it may be sticking. If that doesn't fix it, I'd look and the throttle position sensor.
Would this fix my high idle issue? Looking for help on my 1992 crown Vic lx 4.6v8
Thanks for watching, Payton! If the throttle is dirty enough to stick, this could help with the high idle.
Thanks for the video I have a 2000 5.4l and the throttle kept sticking i definitely needed to be cleaned
Thanks for watching, Timothy! They run so much better when cleaned out.
My BlueDriver scan tool was showing 20% throttle position at idle so I cleaned my throttle plate but it didn't help. My throttle plate wasn't
nearly as dirty as yours was. Anyway, do I have a bad throttle sensor or is there something else that could be causing this problem? As near as I
can tell, the throttle plate completely closes with the engine off and it doesn't look like the linkage is opening the plate with the engine
running at idle. Besides, an actual physical 20% would be obvious. The scan tool does show an increase in throttle opening with acceleration.
This is a 2002 Mustang GT. Idle is 550 RPM at operating temperature with the transmission in Drive. The only issue I see is poor fuel economy at
14.5 MPG driving around town. The sticker (yes I still have it) says I should get 17 MPG in city driving but it did indicate that the range is 14 to 20.
Thanks for watching! Are you getting any OBDII codes? I'd guess the throttle sensor might be your next best target. I'd also think your mpg should be a littler better than you are seeing. MPG will go down with age and miles it seems, but 14.5 sounds low.
@@dwcoffey No OBD codes. The voltages that I measured at the sensor are OK so I'm assuming that the sensor is OK. The voltage when the plate is closed is 0.985VDC which is 21.3% of the input voltage of 4.977VDC. As for MPG, sometimes it drops below 14 MPG. Yesterday I calculated 12.9 MPG. I guess I should stop hotrodding it?
Will this be the same for a 2006 Lincoln Navigator with a 5.4L in it?
Thank you for watching, Stacey! It will be very similar. There are a few differences, like how the cold air intake attaches, but if you are comfortable working on things, this video will be a good guide and you'll be able to figure out the details. There's not a ton of difference. Take photos of everything before you take it apart, that will help greatly in getting it all back together.
Man thank you bruh...my check engine light went off and errthang!!!!
Fantastic! Thanks for watching!
Awsome, thanks Dennis
Thanks for watching, David!
Just cleaned mine out and am going to wait 45 minutes + ...before I cleaned my truck started to chug and then stall at lights... Any idea? The last guy had a K&N intake on it.
Thanks for watching, Carlos! I hope this fixed your problem.
@@dwcoffey it definitely helped. I also switched out the cannister purge valve. Which also aided. Now it doesn't stall at red lights, now it only has an issue when I'm at a turn and I have to step on the accelerator to inch forward ever couple of seconds to keep up with the cars moving forward. I'm going to try the throttle position sensor next.
Very cool. Easy way to explain it I’m gonna get it done In the am after work tonight
Thanks for watching, Jessie!
What is the cable next to the throttle cable?? Mine broke off
Hi Mike, that's the cruise control cable.
@@dwcoffey thank you👍
Thank you for this I have been needing to does this to my Expedition
Thanks for watching, Ronert! I hope it helps!
My 2001 f150 4.6 has been giving me an egr code. I've tried cleaning, then replacing the egr valve but the check engine light still comes on. I'll try cleaning the throttle body to see if that does the trick. Got a feeling that it's been a throttle body issue all along
Thanks for watching, Trevor! I hope that helps and lets you clear that code. If not, try also cleaning the Mass Air Flow sensor...delicately.
If its throwing an egr code, you are going to want to pull the throttle body off. There are two ports on the inside of the throttle body that allow the exhaust gas coming from the egr to re enter the intake. They clog shut and will throw and egr insufficient flow code.
Did it work?
Going to try this on my 08 4.6 tomorrow. Wish me luck
I'm sure you did a great job, I hope it helped! Thanks for watching, Chris!
Great help, hope this is the issue
I hope it helps! Thanks for watching, Matthew!
Could you use MAF cleaner ?
Yes sir. Thanks for watching, Jeremy!
Does dirty throttle causes high rpms?
Thanks for watching! Normally, no, but if the throttle is so dirty that it sticks open, it could definitely cause the engine to idle high.
@@dwcoffey thanks I talked to my mechanic he said he can lower the rpms a little
Great video I have a 98 4.6L and this is beneficial
Thanks for watching, Rodney!
Gunna be taking my intake apart on my 98 Vic again later today. Gunna try cleaning entire intake and hope it fixes my issue. I have replaced egr valve, intake manifold, coils, plugs, fuel pump/filter, IAC valve. Still have this crazy jerk like I’m turning the key on and off when I accelerate past 1/4 throttle. Have to pull over and restart the car. Sometimes that helps for a couple minutes sometimes it doesn’t. I’m lost though…
Thanks for watching Juan! Could be injector issues.
That is not a 2005 ford
You are correct. The one I showed in the video is a 2003 2V 5.4. The 2005 is a bit different, once you remove the cover and cold air intake, the throttle body is vertical. You can clean it the same way though. Thanks for watching, John!
I took mine it was bad in the two line behind where the egr valve is connected if you have a bad stallin poor idle and no power when you change the speeds and no run ups hills I recommend remove the trottle body also check iac valve and egr valve I have 2004 Ford Expedition 4.6
Thanks for watching!
Why? Take off the whole throttle body and clean it right or not at all. You cause more harm than good, where do you think all that loose carbon goes?
Thanks for watching Mario. Most people aren't going to take the throttle body off but can accomplish a cleaning this way. It will not hurt a thing. Even if you do have loose carbon (not likely as it is being put into suspension by the cleaner and removed by the cleaning), it's going to go right out the exhaust valves. I've done this for years as have many other people. My current truck has 307,000 miles on it and I've never been into the engine.
Did you put the all bottle? I just want to know because i'm going to due right now thanks
Thanks for watching, Hugo. No, I only use a portion of the can. Only use enough to see that the throttle body is clean.
.. thanks guy ..
Yes sir! Thank you for watching!
What are the symptoms of a dirty throttle body/ butterfly valve. my truck randomly shut off on me and I slowed down going through a turn
Thanks for watching! With mine, I typically notice when the gas pedal gets a little 'sticky.' I'll start to feel a catch in the pedal, especially as I first press it down. Once I notice that, it is time to clean the throttle body. If it gets worse than that, the engine will not run as smooth. I suppose it's possible that your symptoms could indicate the need to clean the throttle body, but honestly, sounds like a different problem. Cleaning the throttle body won;t hurt anything though and may help you determine the cause of your issue.
@@dwcoffey well.. I seemed to have figured it out . Bottle opener on my key chain caught my shorts as I started to press the brake and in doing so turned my ignition to the off position
Well, at least it was an easy fix!
@@dwcoffey yeah . Damn near killed me lol
It's ok to start the vehicle right after spraying throttle body cleaner. You can also start the vehicle and spray straight through that small hole I'm the plate. Which will help clean the rest of the intake. Also EGR valve and IAC I think, but I been cleaning minds that way for about two years now.
Thank you for watching!!
I was afraid to do it myself but it was actually pretty easy I used your method there are other videos to tell you to take the whole thing off. Mine was absolutely filthy to rags completely covered in black. although I was thinking without taking it off I may not have gotten all of the carbon. I let it sit for rest of the afternoon but when I started it up it still didn’t sound right and the check engine code came back after about a half hour P0401. not sure how I could share the photos I took a before and after. Looking for suggestions what to do next
Thanks for watching, Andrew! The P0401 code is an EGR code. Your EGR valve may be clogged. I know what you mean about how dirty they get....it's amazing how much carbon builds up. You can take the throttle body off to clean it, in fact, that is the dealer-recommend method. I've used this method for years on multiple vehicles and never had a problem. Not sure what you are working on, but I'd try cleaning the EGR valve, if you have a line going to it, flush that line. That should take care of it.
@@dwcoffey thank you. I’ll get to it thank you very much and I’ll let you know
Let me know if I can be of help sir.
@@dwcoffey Thank you for this but I’m bringing it to my local yokel it looks too involved for me I was impressed I was able to clean the throttlebody with your how to video though
Hello, Dennis Coffey
I have an F150 TRITON 4.6 from 2002 can we clean this carb with W40, or brake cleaner.
Thank you very much to you.
Hi Tom, thanks for watching! I've never used anything but carburetor cleaner. I would recommend only using choke or carburetor cleaner. I'd be concerned about negative reactions with various components using anything else.
Hello, DenniS Goffrey
Ok thank you for your return message, I will follow the advice.
Tom de France
The only thing I'd add is that if you've gone this far you might as well clean the Mass Air Flow sensor as well.
Very good point Joe. I should have included that in the video. Thanks for watching!
Yeah I got a chk engine light for that MAF sensor. I hope a cleaning can fix it
By you cleaning the throttle body did it remove the engine light of the maff sensor
@@TheAnchondo13 I never had a check engine light. The engine was idling rough so I cleaned the throttle body and the MAF sensor but that didn't fix the rough idle. It turned out to be the spark plugs.
@@joevignolor4u949 I was wondering why the rough idle...thanks for the info. I haven't done a spark plug change since I got the truck so I will def get that done.