The wax crayon trick worked well for me removing the studs and the nuts on the exhaust. Also regarding the starter motor - it is very close to the exhaust so I strongly recommend you get a heatproof jacket for it, otherwise it will get toasted by the heat. The TR7 originally had clip-on heatshields on the exhaust down pipe but these usually fall off or get discarded. They also do not fit aftermarket stainless steel exhaust systems.
That's right @narrowbeam...just clips on and it was notorious for collecting debris and corroding the terminals so you had to get underneath & twat it a bit in order to get it started so you could get home. Don't quote me but I think that shield has asbestos in it!! Mine is still on my 7, great reminder though and worth pointing out.
Hi Henry, nice job on the stud removal for the exhaust manifold. If you have a link from ebay for that adapter pls add/edit in the video description. As for the O-ring on the manifold, this is the issue I was talking about regarding it being too thick, I searched all my info and could not find the spec but I do know it should be an imperial one. There should be a stand off on this O-ring but not as big with the O-ring you look to be using. When you torque down the manifold you can possibly get an air leak on the nearest inlet port due to this stand off, if you tighten it further to rid the air leak you could distort the manifold and also crush the O-ring seal. I use the silicone grease on the two O ring pipe interface pipe also to keep in situ and make the placement easier. The correct O ring on the manifold face should stay in place naturally without any silicone grease, although it wouldn't hurt to. I know Rimmer & Robsport supply the O ring but it is not right, perhaps it is the nearest they can get! part no. TRS2024. Perhaps double up on the manifold gasket to compensate?
Thanks Chris, my dad suggested sticking the O-ring in the freezer for a short period (not long enough to become brittle) and see if that will shrink it to fit. I'm trying that. Ebay link added.
I was going to ask for the stud extractor link same as Chris! From the looks of them I thought they’d be impossible to get out. I’d agree with some of the other comments that it looks like the o ring is straight up the wrong size. Wouldn’t be the first time the major Triumph parts suppliers are Ellington stuff that doesn’t fit :( Anyway, great that you’re pretty sure what the leak culprit is.
Yeah, I've done some measuring and purchased something else. Not sure if it is right, but I recokon I'll try it. The stud extractor was a revalation and quite brilliant. Highly recommended
@@HenrysGarage I’ll have to get one as I can’t shift the studs in the GT6 manifold and I would like to have the manifold to downpipe surface skimmed, even though the studs would be usable if I left them in place.
They were not fitted in my 1977 or my 1981. Not mentioned in ROM or Parts Catalogue. Part number is for an aftermarket parts for folks who have leaks I guess. Only a few quid so worth fitting I suppose.
@ChrisFEJackson I've been out measuring. Seems to me the outer diameter of the surface is 37.5mm whereas the o-rings provided are 39mm so getting a slightly smaller metric should work. The thickness of the provided o-rings are 3mm so if I purchased o-rings with inner diameter of 31.5mm and 3mm thickness I should be good. What wrong with my thinking?
@@HenrysGarage The diameter I'd say to 37.5mm is ok but you will have to reduce the thickness as well, I'd go as far and say half 1.5 - 2mm so long as the o-ring does partrude to enable sealing contact with the head. 3mm thickness is what the main issue is, in all respect to the leak. Also as a point there is no securing bolt on the RHS of the water seal (near the thermostat housing) so you are at the mercy of the integrity of o ring mating between the manifold and head, stand this off by a too thicker o ring you are either going to have a water leak and/or an air leak (suction) on the manifold port. If you see the YT link to a video I found it may explain it better.
The wax crayon trick worked well for me removing the studs and the nuts on the exhaust. Also regarding the starter motor - it is very close to the exhaust so I strongly recommend you get a heatproof jacket for it, otherwise it will get toasted by the heat. The TR7 originally had clip-on heatshields on the exhaust down pipe but these usually fall off or get discarded. They also do not fit aftermarket stainless steel exhaust systems.
My plan was to wrap the exhaust in the heat shield webbing you can buy. That should work, shouldn't it?
That's right @narrowbeam...just clips on and it was notorious for collecting debris and corroding the terminals so you had to get underneath & twat it a bit in order to get it started so you could get home. Don't quote me but I think that shield has asbestos in it!! Mine is still on my 7, great reminder though and worth pointing out.
@@HenrysGarage it will help some, but the starter is a pain to change when car is on the road and the jacket isn’t too expensive.
Hi Henry, nice job on the stud removal for the exhaust manifold. If you have a link from ebay for that adapter pls add/edit in the video description.
As for the O-ring on the manifold, this is the issue I was talking about regarding it being too thick, I searched all my info and could not find the spec but I do know it should be an imperial one. There should be a stand off on this O-ring but not as big with the O-ring you look to be using. When you torque down the manifold you can possibly get an air leak on the nearest inlet port due to this stand off, if you tighten it further to rid the air leak you could distort the manifold and also crush the O-ring seal.
I use the silicone grease on the two O ring pipe interface pipe also to keep in situ and make the placement easier. The correct O ring on the manifold face should stay in place naturally without any silicone grease, although it wouldn't hurt to.
I know Rimmer & Robsport supply the O ring but it is not right, perhaps it is the nearest they can get! part no. TRS2024. Perhaps double up on the manifold gasket to compensate?
Thanks Chris, my dad suggested sticking the O-ring in the freezer for a short period (not long enough to become brittle) and see if that will shrink it to fit. I'm trying that.
Ebay link added.
@@HenrysGarage Thanks Henry appreciate that
I was going to ask for the stud extractor link same as Chris! From the looks of them I thought they’d be impossible to get out. I’d agree with some of the other comments that it looks like the o ring is straight up the wrong size. Wouldn’t be the first time the major Triumph parts suppliers are Ellington stuff that doesn’t fit :( Anyway, great that you’re pretty sure what the leak culprit is.
Yeah, I've done some measuring and purchased something else. Not sure if it is right, but I recokon I'll try it.
The stud extractor was a revalation and quite brilliant. Highly recommended
@@HenrysGarage I’ll have to get one as I can’t shift the studs in the GT6 manifold and I would like to have the manifold to downpipe surface skimmed, even though the studs would be usable if I left them in place.
Hi Henry, no gaskets on exhaust manifold to head except Fuel Injected
Really? What about these: rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RB7006TR7. I don't see anything indicating they're not required for Carb models
@@HenrysGarage they weren’t factory fitted but no harm fitting
They were not fitted in my 1977 or my 1981. Not mentioned in ROM or Parts Catalogue. Part number is for an aftermarket parts for folks who have leaks I guess. Only a few quid so worth fitting I suppose.
Am I missing something? Can’t you use a smaller o ring?
This is the standard o ring provided by the major suppliers. I figure they supply at that size for a reason
@@HenrysGarage Yes, because they cannot get the right imperial size ;)
@ChrisFEJackson I've been out measuring. Seems to me the outer diameter of the surface is 37.5mm whereas the o-rings provided are 39mm so getting a slightly smaller metric should work. The thickness of the provided o-rings are 3mm so if I purchased o-rings with inner diameter of 31.5mm and 3mm thickness I should be good. What wrong with my thinking?
@@HenrysGarage The diameter I'd say to 37.5mm is ok but you will have to reduce the thickness as well, I'd go as far and say half 1.5 - 2mm so long as the o-ring does partrude to enable sealing contact with the head. 3mm thickness is what the main issue is, in all respect to the leak. Also as a point there is no securing bolt on the RHS of the water seal (near the thermostat housing) so you are at the mercy of the integrity of o ring mating between the manifold and head, stand this off by a too thicker o ring you are either going to have a water leak and/or an air leak (suction) on the manifold port.
If you see the YT link to a video I found it may explain it better.