Did you see all the rusty water dumb out of the head. This is why we don't use tap water. If you can't even follow the most basic steps of owning a car (I know Americans use it for some reason shame) I don't think you really know how to use gasket maker for the general. But you know how to make it work for yourself. Without understanding the repercussions. Literally have my oil pan right in front of me there was no gasket on it disappointingly it wasn't leaking but there's lots of material on the inside. Made me feel not so good when there was none in the joint
I love any video that reminds me of my dad who's now gone... Replace the intake gas gets on an Oldsmobile and my old man went golfing. He gave me some advice etc. But like usual I was hoping he'd be over my shoulder. I did the work anyways thought I put the gaskets on pretty well. I started it, said "look dad I fixed it." Coolant started spewing out a split second later 🤣🤣 "Yeah, now you gotta do it again! I'll show yah what you missed." Didn't use enough gasket maker to hold the gaskets in place and they shifted when I installed intake. When I ask my old man why he just didn't do it for me. The first time the right way... he explained. "You learn from making mistakes!" Miss the hell out of him 😪
The most important part before using liquid gasket is making sure the mating surfaces are prepped correctly. There can't be a single trace of oil. If you wipe the surface with a paper towel and it leaves a black smudge, the surface isn't clean enough. Then of course make sure you lay down a thick enough bead. Typically the service manual will give you an exact measurement of how large the bead should be if you aren't sure
I use brakleen or acetone to remove oil residue then smear a thin layer on both sides and let it cure for a bit before doing the bead, then let it cure completely after assembly.
@@AreaThirteenThirteen Brake clean works great to remove old sealant but it will give you a false sense of security. In my experience brake clean will leave a really thin film on aluminum surfaces for way longer than you would expect it to. Finishing the prep with a scotch brite pad works perfectly since you are effectively sanding off any leftover sealant or oil residue. You just have to be mindful of the dust
another tip is to use a finger and smear a thin film of rtv on both clean surfaces before applying the bead of rtv to one side. this ensures the rtv will adhere to both surfaces rather than touch but not bond properly.
If you imagine your intake manifold as a V with a flat bottom. It MUST seal on the V sides against the heads. Since there's no real adjustment on the sides of the V, the manufacturer made clearance on the flat bottom to ensure the sides properly mate with the heads and seal. As you stated, gasket thickness is also a major factor in the bottom gap. This is the one place where a tall thick bead needs to be used. This is completely different than sealing a thermostat housing for example where only two surfaces are involved, there you need to use a thin bead. Otherwise, the sealant will intrude into the internals. Great video!
An intake manifold is one job you need RTV silicone for sure, as a proper vacuum is needed for function and efficiency (just like the heads). I don't know personally which silicone is best, as every mechanic seems to have their favorite that they believe is best. Nice re-do and thanks for showing us, Jimmy!
According to a test performed by Project Farm, the black RTV from Mopar is the best. It is significatly better than the gray stuff from Permatex which I used to use.
Protip: since those were basically new parts, You could have easily as well reused those felpro intake gaskets if someone was in a pinch and in your shoes and couldn’t find them in stock by the time you reopen the engine to reseal the rtv for a second time
@@GregariousAntithesis If you follow the directions and allow up to 3 hours before starting the engine, RTV holds extremely well. Use an adequate amount and you won't have issues.
I’m glad you mentioned too much sealant, during the torque sequence of the manifold. When I was a mechanic I discovered so many vehicles with clogged or partially clogged engine oil sump screens with pieces of silicone and other debris from the assembly line.
@@stupidbird4U It's needed still in some situations. On honda's, a bit is needed on mating surfaces between two parts, like your cam towers in the front and back of the head where the valve cover gasket seats, and the mating surface of the oil pan between the oil pump and engine block (and iirc, the rear main seal plate) if you don't use it, you'll never seal in those locations since it's a meeting point between two different parts. You can't get away from it no matter what due to how the engine is assembled.
I suspect it's caused more by rushing the job and not allowing a full and proper cure time. Also not using clean or new parts. For example, a new or well cleaned oil pan, given proper cure time even with too much sealant should be fine. If the sealant drips, it's not cured. If it drips into the inside of the oil pan and oil is added, then yes, the oil will float the sealant and the pickup tube will get clogged. If you don't rush, the dripped sealant will cure on the inside of the oil pan and not come off when you add oil back. Lots of places do the bare minimum, including waiting on cure time. That is more than likely the main culprit. Also more sealant means a longer cure time. Best case scenario is if you can let it cure overnight or longer.
Dude it isnt just silicone. Cork can do it too. Ive taken oil pans off 50 year old engines where the cork broke apart in the valve covers and oil pan and clogged 90% of the pickup.
10 years as a mechanic another thing you can do is use studs to set the intake/ keep it from sliding/ hold gasket in place, install a few bolts remove the studs and reinstall factory bolts torque to spec.
WOW, I was wondering when I watched the first time about that thin layer of sealer... now we both know. Sorry you had to learn that the hard way but, think of how many guys (like me) you saved from having to do it twice! I was excited to see the intake video since I have a slight leak on the front of my manifold. Unfortunately, that job will have to wait until I recover from rotator cuff surgery. Maybe it's a blessing in disguise I got hurt because I was going to do this job on my '99 K2500 Suburban (7.4L) and would have followed your video and ended up in the same boat. It takes a honest person to show their mistakes on YT. Thanks for sharing, can't wait to see what's next.
The funny thing about mistakes is that it sticks with you and you remember it forever. Its been a while since Ive seen a mechanical distributor. Good job.
I know people talk about "scraping" gaskets, but its easier to use a brass brush for alot of it. Also don't wipe with a dry towel, use brake cleaner or whatever solvent.
I did a valve cover gasket on a 2002 5.9 magnum truck, I very frustrated because I obviously didn’t do a good job and I’d leaking. The rear on engine one can barely get your hands in there to even see in what condition out is. Can I also use RTV ultra Permatex black along with gasket? I’m not a mechanic, just learning as I go, any advise I can get from anybody is welcomed.
@@Gabriellariz what type of gasket is it? RTV, pressed tin, paper, composite, cork? And yes for cleaning rtv up nothing is quicker than brake cleaner and brass brush. It just melts off. Tapping paper gaskets gets them off pronto too
This is exactly what just to me. I can’t thank you enough for your suggestions. I’ll be doing my 93 LT1 intake manifold gasket again. I see my mistakes thanks to your video. Especially the part where u wait before torque sequence and of course liberal amount of gasket sealer.
I recently had to repair a Rover K-series engine that someone used standard silicone sealant for the cam carrier. The excess had hardened and blocked oilways and damaged the hydraulic tappets. Anaerobic sealant is needed for anywhere it could get into oilways. Any excess doesn't harden and just mixes in with the oil
@@TheBlaert That's interesting.. I never thought about the adhesive needing to be anaerobic, or of it being a danger to oil circulation if otherwise. I have heard of mechanics who will only use clear silicone (although I've never seen an automotive clear RTV adhesive for sale anywhere).
I use permatex for many years and doesn't wait for that 1 hour dry time Just torque everything to spec right away and let it dry , never have a problem
You also want to run the gasket maker from the China walls onto the Felpro Gaskets that overlap The China Walls It will help seal the gap between The Manifold the gasket and the China Walls @1Road
i had my intake manifold put back on my motor and curing when i came inside and watched this video. after watching it, i had a bad gut feeling so i took off my manifold. come to my surprise i ran into the same issue. There was about a 1mm long spot that had no gasket material on it. long story short i cleaned, then reapplied the gasket maker and now praying it holds
After laying the intake gaskets down, the corner protruded ends of the gaskets lay on top of the gasket maker material. So the gaskets are bare in those corners. You should put a dab of gasket maker over each exposed corner of the gasket, to blend it in with the rest of your gasket maker application to make sure it is completely sealed on those ends.
I think the biggest problem here is that the gaskets on the intake are thicker than OEM, which is why you have such a big gap where you apllied the silicon gasket maker. For a normall sized gap/mating surface, the amount of silicone would have definitely been enough. So i think your conclusion at 4:35 is absolutely correct.
no, it's always got that gap on these engines. He keeps saying "more than you think you need...." Well, if you would have just looked at it when you took it off....or test fit it to check that gap, or anything other than assume you know what it needs, you would have seen the amount of space you had to fill. It's a thing. Just check that gap if you don't know. I like to see gasket squish out evenly all the way along the mating surfaces. But, I'd also use the Right Stuff, not the stuff in the package w the gaskets.
older small blocks used a rubber gasket on the front/back wall, hence the large gap, but you still needed a dab of RTV in the corners to prevent leaks. It's possible that they found the RTV to be more effective than the rubber gasket, or maybe it's simply cheaper
I don't think I've ever seen that large of a gap between manifold and block before. That seems like about 3/32 or something. Sucks to have to redo, and I think you were right to be concerned about squish. So IMO, everyone should proably dry fit parts to ensure they know how much to apply.
The engine is designed to have a rubber or rubberized cork gasket there,but no one uses them because they always leak or blow out completely. No one uses them so gasket makers stopped providing them and just put a small tube of gasket maker in the kit.
im pretty sure its a big block. so its a small block just alot bigger. therefore the gap is alot bigger too. cork gaskets suck and sillycone is better as it doesnt just blow out one day and fill your engine bay with oil. even with the cork gaskets you still needed silicone but its just better to make it out of the same stuff.
@@chehystpewpur4754 It looked like a small block to me, most likely guessing 350 based on the vehicle it's in (looks l90s, which 5.7s were very common)). But I could be wrong, and I'm not sure it matters. I hadn't considered why there were none of the usual (or at least years ago the usual) black rubber/silicone gaskets for the front and rear of the manifold.
@@rimfire2642 the 7.4l 454 big block from the 90's looked exactly like the l31 vortec aside from the intake. valve covers and all just its an absolute chonker when you see them side by side. the intake is diff so im just guessing based on things.
What you need is some 1/8"-1/4" hard cork to make the gaskets for either end of of the manifold. That is what the manuals used to specify back in the 70's. Then you can use a THIN coating of RTV on either side. Filling up the space with RTV is not the way to handle that.
I prefer using Loctite one minute black RTV. It sets up really quick so you have to work somewhat fast but it is a lot more oil resistant. It’s also a little bit more tacky to if your trying to hold a gasket in place while you set something like an intake without the gasket moving on you. The ultra gray is good but takes too long for me to set up. The one minute rtv is also better with high vibration high torque and high heat. Down side to it is if you have to take something back off the one minute is really tough. Sets up harder than the gray too
The gray rtv from international for the power strokes is some wicked stuff ,smokes that permatex all to heck. I think it's called t-442 and ya get what you pay for.
@@MrTheHillfolk i think they all copied the rtv chemistry from the japs. the honda bond, subaru, Yamaha, all were good stuff and it became the ones to try and copy, i found permatex grey to sorta copy the subaru and honda bond so that a selant locally found would substitute.
Prepping the surface is your most critical aspect. Absolutely no oil residue or anything else can be on the surface. Wipe multiple times with a solvent such as acetone, brake clean, starting fluid, or carb cleaner. Do not use mineral spirits as that dries it leaves a residue. A narrow bead is fine but I always run two layers of bead, one on top of the other.
That's a pretty thick bead of rtv. When too much it will end up in the oil strainer. Always clean and double clean the surface. As a tech I will say this, too much rtv will become an oil restriction in the oil system. Specifically the strainer.
It's only a problem if you rush the job and put fluids in before everything is cured enough. If given the proper time, everything should be cured enough to not fall off into the oil pan or engine, depending on what you're sealing. If the sealant isn't dripping on the outside where it pushed out, then its not dripping on the inside. If everything is clean or new like it should be, even if it drips before curing, it will stay stuck to whatever it dripped on. If it dripped onto the inside of a clean/new oil pan, if you wait the proper curing time, it will cure on the inside of the pan, and you wont have to worry about it floating and being sucked into the engine.
You dunno what yoire talking about... yes too much on surfaces that TOUCH eachother could maybe possibly break apart.. but on an intake the front and back for a lot of engines have a huge gap between them and the block. You have to make a huge bead to fill the gap
This video is completely wrong. If you use the amount of RTV this guy uses you will destroy your engine due to oil starvation. Only a very thin bead is needed. If you use the amount this video suggests it will squeeze out into the internal side of the engine and will eventually break off and enter your oil ways. Be warned.
Not on old FE engines. Putting a thin bead on the back and front of the manifold would be a huge mistake and you are going to find yourself ruining multiple gaskets pulling that 1000 pounds manifold on and off because it won't stop leaking due to "conventional" advice.
Another good tip is to tape the intake and block off so you can put a thicker bead and not worry about clean up. I always did .200-.300in thickness. Shouldn't have to worry about it falling apart inside the block either
I have pretty much gone exclusively to “the right stuff” gasket maker in the pressurized can, it makes it sooo much easier to get the correct bead, as well as it is an excellent sealer material.
Some people get a little self conscious about revealing their mistakes, but at the end of the day we're all here to learn and grow. Thanks for sharing! Hopefully I can now avoid the same mistake when I change the valve cover gasket on my 2012 Ford Focus.
I had to replace my whole oil pan recently, about 15 bolts just holding the pan. also a very tight squeeze getting it in and working under the car on jack stands was a real pain. I used enough gasket maker the first time but after letting it sit for the 24 hours I realized there was a little section inside the pan that was supposed to get gasket maker too that I forgot so I had to remove the pan and scrape all that gasket maker off again and redo the entire project. Just like you said now i go SLOW and make sure I'm taking my time and doing it right the first time so I don't have to go through that kind of mess again lol. Great video!
@1ROAD I applaud your willingness to show your mistake on camera, and to jump right back in and fix it right. One side note, check your PCV system. If the crankcase is over pressurizing due to a clogged or stuck PCV valve, then these RTV seals will see a lot of pressure, and they are the weak spot in the system. They could blow out and cause another oil leak issue. Just a heads up.
This is exactly what I just did. I wish I’d seen this video. Mine isn’t leaking yet but I wasn’t realizing the gaskets keep it from setting flush against the block.
Before removing the manifold, 1) remove block water plugs 2) blow air through coolant ports on the manifold 3) using a wet/dry vacuum, suck anything that comes from the upper hose on the manifold. Chances you will not drop coolant anywhere
don't beat yourself up brother sometimes doing a job twice is a great learning experience. It looks like you did a hell of job the second time, nice work.
I’m honestly surprised that this guy didn’t know to put a nice caterpillar type bead of RTV on the China rails of a sbc when doing an intake/intake gasket replacement. Thats really humble of this man to not only post this an admit to a mistake but allow others who may not mess with engines all that much a chance of learning from his mistake so they don’t gotta learn the hard way but mistakes is how we learn but we should always minimize those mistakes as to not make them or at the very least so it’s not a catastrophic mistakes being made.
Quite a misleading video for most cases. In general you don't need anywhere near as much as you are suggesting, in almost all cases the finished joint will be very very thin , putting a 3mm thick bead across the whole width of the flange will result in 95%+ of the sealant being expelled out the side of the flange or worse into coolant and oil-ways depending on the joint being sealed. What is on the inside of the engine can break off and get into the intake. The real problem here is that the whole intake manifold and gasket setup being used is not right . I suspect the blue gaskets used are way thicker than OE resulting in a much bigger gap to be sealed at the ends of the valley. Depending how thick the final seal is that RTV seal may not last long , it's not designed to seal wide gaps.
Same thing happened to me ONCE on a chevy 4.3. I learned from that mistake and now make sure it is VERY clean absolutely no oil on the surface where the gasket maker goes and let it dry overnight.
Tip: Tech taught me a trick to get gaskets to stay put for assembly. 3M super 77 spray adhesive. Spray light coat on both gasket and surface, wait a moment for it to tack, then apply gasket. Word of caution, get the alignment right on first shot as this stuff sticks really good. Have done this many times since the early 90s' when he shared this tip. No more gasket squirting around at the slightest touch or gasket sliding down on a vertical surface etc.
I use a 3/8 wide bead that resembles a stacked weld. I let it tack up and get a skin on it but still mushy. then torque to the recommended specs and you are home free. its a piece of cake once you do it a time or thrice.
Just at it down and smooth it out. Works for an air/fluid tight seal on all of the jobs I’ve done and it prevents excess amount from forming into the case
This job is the exception to the rule! Usually you want a minimum amount of RTV because the excess will likely end up in the engine. However, with these intakes the gap here is so wide it needs to be loaded up.
I have used this method of just laying a bead of RTV down and its hit or miss no matter how you prep. The fel pro adhesive cork rail gaskets work much better, they dont move and are solid. Just add some rtv at the ends and a thin bead on top of the cork.
ive had a few of these intakes off to say the least. i was able to pull off and put back on these guys in a few hrs tops depending on what i was doing for the repair. and i never had to remove one for oil leaks or coolant. one of the best things you can do when applying silicone sealant. put a big ole thick glob on. then go in circles with your finger smoothing it out and smearing it around. it should look like a nice weld a bunch or dimes stacked on eachother. i also put a ring of it around the coolant passages on the heads then put the gasket on so both sides of it get the silicone on it in the front and back. then one more ring of silicone around the coolant passages on the top of the gasket and set intake smoosh it around a little and start the bolts let it sit 5-10 mins till the outside gets a little tacky but doesnt come off on your finger when you touch it. you want it to have a skin but still be pliable and wet inside the skin. then torque it down. the last part of lettting it skin is almost as important as smearing it around neatly. no bubbles. the skin lets it compress before it squishes out so it really fills in the gaps instead of just push out. also when cleaning mating surfaces always try to scrape along the surface and not across. on the back of the motor i seen a gouge going from the lifter valley cavity to the outside of the motor. those can cause leak channels and may never seal. one of my friends learned that the hard way recently and created a fire hazard that leaked about 8 quarts of oil in an oil change interval.
Before starting a job like this, drain all the coolant and replace with water. Then, use a shop vac set to blow and push as much water as possible out of the intake (disconnect lower rad hose). Won't have to do an oil change because nothing should fall into the engine pulling the intake, and if a small amount does, it's just water and will burn off without damaging anything.
I've been doing this repair since 1978 on Chevy 350's 50% of the time the back s pattern would leak. Felpro used to supply a rubber gasket. And like a fool, we trusted it. Then, when the ulta grey came on the market, the problem was solved.
Thank you for your video simple and perfect for my 84 trans am , i have the same probleme on my car now i can run with my car without oil on the ground 😀😀
I've actually used rtv for intakes all the way around on several vehicles I've owned, sans any solid gasket & achieved long term good results - chev & ford v8s & inlines. ZERO gasoline erosion. ZERO vacuum/fluid leakage. Never a bad result. Sure, if you IMMERSE the stuff in gas, then yeah, dissolution. But on an intake? Not in my experience. Just adding this post as a side note.
I have done this job many times for many years I put a 3/8 bead across and go up onto the intake gaskets just a bit and I spread a thin amount on the water ports with my finger
I usually use high-temp silicone gasket maker IN ADDITION to the physical precut gasket, and am NEVER disappointed. Especially concerning automatic transmission and engine oil pans and main bearing seals.
@@blackhawk7r221 When bolting together the two surfaces, and torquing to specs, the silicone can get squeezed too thin, and then fail due to chemical effects or pressure. Do this experiment: Have a thin film line of completely cured silicone gasket sealer on a flat plate of metal. Then apply some gasoline, or motor oil, or transmission fluid. The edges of the line will start to lift apart from the metal plate. Solvents will affect it. Silicone isn't super permanent, because if it was, a mechanic would have a MUCH more difficult disassembly.
To replace the intake gaskets on this small block Chevy is baby stuff. Try it on an FE Ford. Especially one that still has the cast iron 100 lb intake manifold. You have to remove the valve covers and the rocker arm shaft assemblies and the pushrods, along with the carb and distributor and whatever else is in the way of all that to get down to the block and cylinder head surfaces.
Great when someone isn't afraid to admit to mistakes. That's the biggest way we learn. Those people who think they know everything and never admit to a mistake never progress to being Great.
Oh-you gave me nightmares doing my vortex manifold gaskets.... Some ditties: № 1: Drawing coolant to a level below the manifold can help mitigate how much get dumped in the lifter valley; and № 2: The shop manual instructs to put adhesive up 1/2-inch on TOP of the bottom corners of the hard gaskets. Your leak ii experienced may have been oil sneaking above the sealant and below the gasket and not necessarily going through gaps in the adhesive.
Great video! I would add a couple other small details that will help get a good seal on those difficult manifold ends: 1. After cleaning sand both the block and intake with sandpaper. 2. Apply a thin layer of RTV on the intake in addition to the thick layer on the block.
Bro, absolutely not, never under any circumstance use sandpaper, or Emery cloth on gasket surfaces, gasket surfaces are machine to a certain flatness, and a certain tolerance, using sandpaper, can absolutely destroy those tolerances, use a non-maring material removing disc. or a surface safe razor blade. you were only trying to remove the varnish, fats, and previous gasket making material you are not trying to remove any amount of metal.
If you need use rtv on component seams like…for example, a small block Chevy intake manifold…three options… use RTV on the four corners of seams. Wait a specified amount of time for the sealer to cure, then torque to spec. 2. with the appropriate cork gasket, use the cork gasket, apply RTV to to the seams and the entire top of the cork gasket. You can even apply RTV to the entire front and rear gasket service of those intake manifold. Make sure you apply a very large amount as you said in the video almost too much, finger tight the manifold, come back within the specified amount of time and torque the manifold. I recommend “Permax the right stuff black” don’t you dare use sandpaper.
And just what is so terrible about it? Nothing wrong with cleaning the end surfaces with a fine sandpaper. And yes don't be stupid and dish the surface out with sandpaper just lightly clean it up.
I hand tighten everything, let it sit over night to cure then final torque. This way it doesn’t all squish out. Of course make sure everything is clean.
Back in the older days I used electric engraver to ruff up surfaces to help retain the silicone in place and still do it on air cooled engines every day because of vibration
The best way to use it is to not use it very much. I don't use it on my diffs at all. I use Lube locker gaskets. Same with Transmission pan. It makes cleanup almost nonexistent, and the gaskets are reusable so buy one and that's it. I use RTV at the joint where the intake gaskets meet the valley gaskets but not a whole bead. just a dab in the corners. I'm a Small Block ford guy so I also use a dab at the joint where the Timing cover, oil pan and block all come together.
I would have used a thick bead of the Permatex Right Stuff 90 minute gasket maker. Snug the bolts up and 1 hour later torque them to spec. Then I wait 2-3 hours before adding fluid or using the vehicle, and then it's definitely dry and ready to add fluids and/or drive.
Yeah good video. Definitely did the job correctly the second time. One thing I've learnt with V8 engines especially Chev is never ever use those rubber or cork end gaskets. That being said I need to re do my 327 in my 63 because I used the rubber end gaskets and they are leaking badly.
if you ever have to do this again, ty and find some of the same thread shoulder bolts extra long and cut the head off them and clean them up and put them on one side as a guide this holds the one gasket from moving and all you have to do is keep the one in place with your hand while you lower the manifold down at an angle on the headless bolts sticking up. then add bolts around to keep everything down and just remove the studs you made and reinstall normal bolts, helps a lot when you do things like this solo
I am a ford master mechanic. The use of silicone based sealers . Is all about cleanliness. This is more important with modern aluminum. And plastic parts but true of all . Clean with brake clean . Be very careful with scrapers and abrasive materiel . Like scotch brite pads . Any scratches can be a path to leaks . Again especially aluminum . There are products to use . First there are gasket removing chemicals use that . Next brake clean . Very modern plastic and or carbide scrapers with very very light pressure are good . Think clean no scratches . Next brake clean leaves a residue. Clean with engine shampoo after brake clean . The surface must be be clean wiped with a white cloth no dark on cloth . Final step is there are surface prep products . Dealers ( all manufactures have a product ) this is a final wipe metal parts only . Ford for example call it metal surface prep . If the product form beads it’s not clean . Last is silicone sealer designed for engines . Again dealer products are good there are others . Seems like a lot of work and it is . But this is the process factory manuals and techs use . Again especially aluminum engines . You will not have failures with this procedure . Sealer remover . Brake clean . Proper scrapers no scratches . Abrasives in general bad . Wipe with shampoo . Final with surface prep . Wear gloves . There is oil in skin . Then proper engine silicone . Hope this helps
I'm amazed at how crappily the manifold mates to the heads and block. Thats a massive amount of rtv if you're used to working on 90's Japanese stuff. After the rework, the amount used seems to be perfect for clogging oil passages.
I made the mistake of not putting enough RTV on the intake of a freshly built motor. My concern was aesthetics. Ended up getting water/coolant in the cylinders and had to take it back apart.
Back in the day I worked in a VW (air cooled) engine shop. I can't tell you how many motors we saw ruined by RTV. The little "goobers" that are squished out to the outside an equal number are squished to the inside. Free to float around inside the motor plugging oil passageways. I will never use RTV on a motor. Red Permatex will dry and seal any gasket surface without creating the little goobers. 6:00
Thanks for the video. I think it's great to keep these older vehicles going. I'm not really interested in the complexity jump in cars after about 2010 to game the EPA fuel economy tests.
Changed a head gasket on my Jeep not too long ago only to discover the piston rings were bad on a leakdown test. But hey, the timing chain cover held up just fine. 😅
the BETTER way to do this is by using quark gasket sheet and cutting a strip that size and RTV that down, takes a bit of back and forth on getting it the right size but imo better than a big glob of rtv being the only thing there. i have pulled a few of these sbc with those exact vortec heads before and they ALL had a quark gasket there.
Here's An EPIC 4 Year BFG KO2 Tire Update In The Snow: ua-cam.com/video/niIG7e_wK8E/v-deo.html
This guy shouldn’t be working on engines
The Engine looks fantastic. An Amateur who cares about what they are doing will always exceed a professional who doesnt.
Did you see all the rusty water dumb out of the head. This is why we don't use tap water. If you can't even follow the most basic steps of owning a car (I know Americans use it for some reason shame) I don't think you really know how to use gasket maker for the general. But you know how to make it work for yourself. Without understanding the repercussions. Literally have my oil pan right in front of me there was no gasket on it disappointingly it wasn't leaking but there's lots of material on the inside. Made me feel not so good when there was none in the joint
It's amazing how much can be learned when mistakes are made and you maintain a positive demeanor.
Facts! L's aren't loses but lessons actually.
I'm amazed he put that little lol
Yep, his mistakes to our benefit.
Watching this video, someone (hopefully) will learn of this mistake before making it themselves ☝
That is so truthful!
I love any video that reminds me of my dad who's now gone... Replace the intake gas gets on an Oldsmobile and my old man went golfing. He gave me some advice etc. But like usual I was hoping he'd be over my shoulder. I did the work anyways thought I put the gaskets on pretty well. I started it, said "look dad I fixed it."
Coolant started spewing out a split second later 🤣🤣
"Yeah, now you gotta do it again! I'll show yah what you missed."
Didn't use enough gasket maker to hold the gaskets in place and they shifted when I installed intake.
When I ask my old man why he just didn't do it for me. The first time the right way... he explained. "You learn from making mistakes!"
Miss the hell out of him 😪
The most important part before using liquid gasket is making sure the mating surfaces are prepped correctly. There can't be a single trace of oil. If you wipe the surface with a paper towel and it leaves a black smudge, the surface isn't clean enough. Then of course make sure you lay down a thick enough bead. Typically the service manual will give you an exact measurement of how large the bead should be if you aren't sure
I use brakleen or acetone to remove oil residue then smear a thin layer on both sides and let it cure for a bit before doing the bead, then let it cure completely after assembly.
@@AreaThirteenThirteen Brake clean works great to remove old sealant but it will give you a false sense of security. In my experience brake clean will leave a really thin film on aluminum surfaces for way longer than you would expect it to. Finishing the prep with a scotch brite pad works perfectly since you are effectively sanding off any leftover sealant or oil residue. You just have to be mindful of the dust
I’ve been a mechanic for 57 years full time
I still ruff up surface with electric engraver to help hold silicone in place
Just hate come back or leaks
If silicone says 12 hours to cue I double it
I find the best in my opinion, after removing old residues, clean the surface with Thinner, it doesn't leave traces.
another tip is to use a finger and smear a thin film of rtv on both clean surfaces before applying the bead of rtv to one side. this ensures the rtv will adhere to both surfaces rather than touch but not bond properly.
Been wrenching for 20 years, that's how I do it gotta make sure learned my lesson on a 7.3 oil pan 😂.
seems like i fit tacks up it should bond properly regardless??
This is the ONLY way to do it!
If you imagine your intake manifold as a V with a flat bottom. It MUST seal on the V sides against the heads. Since there's no real adjustment on the sides of the V, the manufacturer made clearance on the flat bottom to ensure the sides properly mate with the heads and seal. As you stated, gasket thickness is also a major factor in the bottom gap. This is the one place where a tall thick bead needs to be used. This is completely different than sealing a thermostat housing for example where only two surfaces are involved, there you need to use a thin bead. Otherwise, the sealant will intrude into the internals. Great video!
Always humbling when can admit you didn't do something right or good enough. And it's nice to learn from a mistake. Appreciate you Jimmy
Haha, yep. Thanks! 👍
An intake manifold is one job you need RTV silicone for sure, as a proper vacuum is needed for function and efficiency (just like the heads). I don't know personally which silicone is best, as every mechanic seems to have their favorite that they believe is best. Nice re-do and thanks for showing us, Jimmy!
Glad you enjoyed it! 🤙
I use ONLY the gray silicone for this purpose. It is much more robust that the orange, blue or black.
@@x-man5056no it’s not. Ultra Black/ The Right Stuff, is the most robust RTV you can get. And that’s not an opinion, that’s a fact
@@tclott316 Incorrect
According to a test performed by Project Farm, the black RTV from Mopar is the best. It is significatly better than the gray stuff from Permatex which I used to use.
Protip: since those were basically new parts, You could have easily as well reused those felpro intake gaskets if someone was in a pinch and in your shoes and couldn’t find them in stock by the time you reopen the engine to reseal the rtv for a second time
I hate RTV its garbage and a crap way to get a leak proof seal. I use form a gasket and a quality gasket.
@@GregariousAntithesis If you follow the directions and allow up to 3 hours before starting the engine, RTV holds extremely well. Use an adequate amount and you won't have issues.
@@kurtangusofficial fuk that garbage. I will continue to use anaerobic sealant like permatex form a gasket that never leaks.
I’m glad you mentioned too much sealant, during the torque sequence of the manifold. When I was a mechanic I discovered so many vehicles with clogged or partially clogged engine oil sump screens with pieces of silicone and other debris from the assembly line.
And that is exactly why I never use silicone sealant anywhere on an engine where it may migrate into the oil system. I call that crap no more skill.
The pro application in the thumbnail is excessive
@@stupidbird4U It's needed still in some situations. On honda's, a bit is needed on mating surfaces between two parts, like your cam towers in the front and back of the head where the valve cover gasket seats, and the mating surface of the oil pan between the oil pump and engine block (and iirc, the rear main seal plate) if you don't use it, you'll never seal in those locations since it's a meeting point between two different parts. You can't get away from it no matter what due to how the engine is assembled.
I suspect it's caused more by rushing the job and not allowing a full and proper cure time. Also not using clean or new parts. For example, a new or well cleaned oil pan, given proper cure time even with too much sealant should be fine. If the sealant drips, it's not cured. If it drips into the inside of the oil pan and oil is added, then yes, the oil will float the sealant and the pickup tube will get clogged. If you don't rush, the dripped sealant will cure on the inside of the oil pan and not come off when you add oil back. Lots of places do the bare minimum, including waiting on cure time. That is more than likely the main culprit. Also more sealant means a longer cure time. Best case scenario is if you can let it cure overnight or longer.
Dude it isnt just silicone. Cork can do it too. Ive taken oil pans off 50 year old engines where the cork broke apart in the valve covers and oil pan and clogged 90% of the pickup.
No person starts off out of the starting gate a master/pro/expert at this stuff.
Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge.
10 years as a mechanic another thing you can do is use studs to set the intake/ keep it from sliding/ hold gasket in place, install a few bolts remove the studs and reinstall factory bolts torque to spec.
WOW, I was wondering when I watched the first time about that thin layer of sealer... now we both know. Sorry you had to learn that the hard way but, think of how many guys (like me) you saved from having to do it twice! I was excited to see the intake video since I have a slight leak on the front of my manifold. Unfortunately, that job will have to wait until I recover from rotator cuff surgery. Maybe it's a blessing in disguise I got hurt because I was going to do this job on my '99 K2500 Suburban (7.4L) and would have followed your video and ended up in the same boat. It takes a honest person to show their mistakes on YT. Thanks for sharing, can't wait to see what's next.
You should also apply a thin layer of rtv on the other mating surface and make sure to use brake clean or equivalent to fully clean surfaces
The funny thing about mistakes is that it sticks with you and you remember it forever.
Its been a while since Ive seen a mechanical distributor.
Good job.
I know people talk about "scraping" gaskets, but its easier to use a brass brush for alot of it. Also don't wipe with a dry towel, use brake cleaner or whatever solvent.
I did a valve cover gasket on a 2002 5.9 magnum truck, I very frustrated because I obviously didn’t do a good job and I’d leaking. The rear on engine one can barely get your hands in there to even see in what condition out is. Can I also use RTV ultra
Permatex black along with gasket? I’m not a mechanic, just learning as I go, any advise I can get from anybody is welcomed.
@@Gabriellariz what type of gasket is it? RTV, pressed tin, paper, composite, cork?
And yes for cleaning rtv up nothing is quicker than brake cleaner and brass brush. It just melts off. Tapping paper gaskets gets them off pronto too
@@Gabriellarizmake sure both mating surfaces are flat. Use long flat sanding block on the manifold if not to reduce the clearances and make it uniform
This is exactly what just to me. I can’t thank you enough for your suggestions. I’ll be doing my 93 LT1 intake manifold gasket again.
I see my mistakes thanks to your video. Especially the part where u wait before torque sequence and of course liberal amount of gasket sealer.
I was aghast when I seen oil passages in your lower intake manifold, definitely adds a extra dynamic to a repair that uses sealants. Great content!
I recently had to repair a Rover K-series engine that someone used standard silicone sealant for the cam carrier. The excess had hardened and blocked oilways and damaged the hydraulic tappets. Anaerobic sealant is needed for anywhere it could get into oilways. Any excess doesn't harden and just mixes in with the oil
@@TheBlaert That's interesting.. I never thought about the adhesive needing to be anaerobic, or of it being a danger to oil circulation if otherwise. I have heard of mechanics who will only use clear silicone (although I've never seen an automotive clear RTV adhesive for sale anywhere).
I use permatex for many years and doesn't wait for that 1 hour dry time
Just torque everything to spec right away and let it dry , never have a problem
You also want to run the gasket maker from the China walls onto the Felpro Gaskets that overlap The China Walls It will help seal the gap between The Manifold the gasket and the China Walls @1Road
Don't be so hard on yourself Jimmy.Making mistakes is how we learn not to do things....😁👍👍Nice job, even if you did do it twice...👊
i had my intake manifold put back on my motor and curing when i came inside and watched this video. after watching it, i had a bad gut feeling so i took off my manifold. come to my surprise i ran into the same issue. There was about a 1mm long spot that had no gasket material on it. long story short i cleaned, then reapplied the gasket maker and now praying it holds
After laying the intake gaskets down, the corner protruded ends of the gaskets lay on top of the gasket maker material. So the gaskets are bare in those corners. You should put a dab of gasket maker over each exposed corner of the gasket, to blend it in with the rest of your gasket maker application to make sure it is completely sealed on those ends.
I think the biggest problem here is that the gaskets on the intake are thicker than OEM, which is why you have such a big gap where you apllied the silicon gasket maker. For a normall sized gap/mating surface, the amount of silicone would have definitely been enough. So i think your conclusion at 4:35 is absolutely correct.
no, it's always got that gap on these engines. He keeps saying "more than you think you need...." Well, if you would have just looked at it when you took it off....or test fit it to check that gap, or anything other than assume you know what it needs, you would have seen the amount of space you had to fill. It's a thing. Just check that gap if you don't know. I like to see gasket squish out evenly all the way along the mating surfaces. But, I'd also use the Right Stuff, not the stuff in the package w the gaskets.
older small blocks used a rubber gasket on the front/back wall, hence the large gap, but you still needed a dab of RTV in the corners to prevent leaks. It's possible that they found the RTV to be more effective than the rubber gasket, or maybe it's simply cheaper
@@ckl8a i think its just cheaper. the old rubber gaskets would get brittle over time but i never had one leak.
We've all been there. Lesson Learned! Good job Jimmy.
I don't think I've ever seen that large of a gap between manifold and block before. That seems like about 3/32 or something. Sucks to have to redo, and I think you were right to be concerned about squish. So IMO, everyone should proably dry fit parts to ensure they know how much to apply.
The engine is designed to have a rubber or rubberized cork gasket there,but no one uses them because they always leak or blow out completely. No one uses them so gasket makers stopped providing them and just put a small tube of gasket maker in the kit.
@@3rdpig That's a fair point. I do recall the rubber seals being pretty touchy.
im pretty sure its a big block. so its a small block just alot bigger. therefore the gap is alot bigger too.
cork gaskets suck and sillycone is better as it doesnt just blow out one day and fill your engine bay with oil.
even with the cork gaskets you still needed silicone but its just better to make it out of the same stuff.
@@chehystpewpur4754 It looked like a small block to me, most likely guessing 350 based on the vehicle it's in (looks l90s, which 5.7s were very common)). But I could be wrong, and I'm not sure it matters. I hadn't considered why there were none of the usual (or at least years ago the usual) black rubber/silicone gaskets for the front and rear of the manifold.
@@rimfire2642 the 7.4l 454 big block from the 90's looked exactly like the l31 vortec aside from the intake. valve covers and all just its an absolute chonker when you see them side by side. the intake is diff so im just guessing based on things.
Thanks for being humble and sharing your learning experience. It gives us DIYer's the confidence and positivity needed to learn!
Thats how we learn, what if we gave up every failed repair attempt, I wouldnt have a car. We learn and grow..nice job!
My old love, the TBI 350 small block.
I miss these engines.
What you need is some 1/8"-1/4" hard cork to make the gaskets for either end of of the manifold. That is what the manuals used to specify back in the 70's. Then you can use a THIN coating of RTV on either side. Filling up the space with RTV is not the way to handle that.
I prefer using Loctite one minute black RTV. It sets up really quick so you have to work somewhat fast but it is a lot more oil resistant. It’s also a little bit more tacky to if your trying to hold a gasket in place while you set something like an intake without the gasket moving on you. The ultra gray is good but takes too long for me to set up. The one minute rtv is also better with high vibration high torque and high heat. Down side to it is if you have to take something back off the one minute is really tough. Sets up harder than the gray too
The gray rtv from international for the power strokes is some wicked stuff ,smokes that permatex all to heck.
I think it's called t-442 and ya get what you pay for.
@@MrTheHillfolk i think they all copied the rtv chemistry from the japs. the honda bond, subaru, Yamaha, all were good stuff and it became the ones to try and copy, i found permatex grey to sorta copy the subaru and honda bond so that a selant locally found would substitute.
Prepping the surface is your most critical aspect. Absolutely no oil residue or anything else can be on the surface. Wipe multiple times with a solvent such as acetone, brake clean, starting fluid, or carb cleaner. Do not use mineral spirits as that dries it leaves a residue.
A narrow bead is fine but I always run two layers of bead, one on top of the other.
That's a pretty thick bead of rtv. When too much it will end up in the oil strainer. Always clean and double clean the surface. As a tech I will say this, too much rtv will become an oil restriction in the oil system. Specifically the strainer.
It's only a problem if you rush the job and put fluids in before everything is cured enough. If given the proper time, everything should be cured enough to not fall off into the oil pan or engine, depending on what you're sealing. If the sealant isn't dripping on the outside where it pushed out, then its not dripping on the inside. If everything is clean or new like it should be, even if it drips before curing, it will stay stuck to whatever it dripped on. If it dripped onto the inside of a clean/new oil pan, if you wait the proper curing time, it will cure on the inside of the pan, and you wont have to worry about it floating and being sucked into the engine.
You dunno what yoire talking about... yes too much on surfaces that TOUCH eachother could maybe possibly break apart.. but on an intake the front and back for a lot of engines have a huge gap between them and the block. You have to make a huge bead to fill the gap
This video is completely wrong. If you use the amount of RTV this guy uses you will destroy your engine due to oil starvation. Only a very thin bead is needed. If you use the amount this video suggests it will squeeze out into the internal side of the engine and will eventually break off and enter your oil ways. Be warned.
Bro gtfoh people use rtv in racing applications I think the mf rtv will do fine like it's been doing for my thermostat for the past 90,000 miles.🤡🤌🏾
@@toxicity6629the brown hand says all we need..
@@jodiehighroller9820which is?
Yes it is too much.
Not on old FE engines. Putting a thin bead on the back and front of the manifold would be a huge mistake and you are going to find yourself ruining multiple gaskets pulling that 1000 pounds manifold on and off because it won't stop leaking due to "conventional" advice.
Another good tip is to tape the intake and block off so you can put a thicker bead and not worry about clean up. I always did .200-.300in thickness. Shouldn't have to worry about it falling apart inside the block either
😂😂😂😂 ffs you really put two zeroes at the end of you point whatevsr measurement. this youtube and its comments are comedy gold for actual techs
@@byloyuripka9624 as a former VBM and bridgeport operator i appreciate it
I have pretty much gone exclusively to “the right stuff” gasket maker in the pressurized can, it makes it sooo much easier to get the correct bead, as well as it is an excellent sealer material.
Victor reinz в баллоне , решает. Согласен. Никаких проблем с ним.
Some people get a little self conscious about revealing their mistakes, but at the end of the day we're all here to learn and grow. Thanks for sharing! Hopefully I can now avoid the same mistake when I change the valve cover gasket on my 2012 Ford Focus.
I had to replace my whole oil pan recently, about 15 bolts just holding the pan. also a very tight squeeze getting it in and working under the car on jack stands was a real pain. I used enough gasket maker the first time but after letting it sit for the 24 hours I realized there was a little section inside the pan that was supposed to get gasket maker too that I forgot so I had to remove the pan and scrape all that gasket maker off again and redo the entire project. Just like you said now i go SLOW and make sure I'm taking my time and doing it right the first time so I don't have to go through that kind of mess again lol. Great video!
@1ROAD I applaud your willingness to show your mistake on camera, and to jump right back in and fix it right. One side note, check your PCV system. If the crankcase is over pressurizing due to a clogged or stuck PCV valve, then these RTV seals will see a lot of pressure, and they are the weak spot in the system. They could blow out and cause another oil leak issue. Just a heads up.
I like to use spray tack to hold the gaskets. Great video.
This is exactly what I just did. I wish I’d seen this video. Mine isn’t leaking yet but I wasn’t realizing the gaskets keep it from setting flush against the block.
Before removing the manifold,
1) remove block water plugs
2) blow air through coolant ports on the manifold
3) using a wet/dry vacuum, suck anything that comes from the upper hose on the manifold.
Chances you will not drop coolant anywhere
don't beat yourself up brother sometimes doing a job twice is a great learning experience. It looks like you did a hell of job the second time, nice work.
I’m honestly surprised that this guy didn’t know to put a nice caterpillar type bead of RTV on the China rails of a sbc when doing an intake/intake gasket replacement. Thats really humble of this man to not only post this an admit to a mistake but allow others who may not mess with engines all that much a chance of learning from his mistake so they don’t gotta learn the hard way but mistakes is how we learn but we should always minimize those mistakes as to not make them or at the very least so it’s not a catastrophic mistakes being made.
Also putting another bead on top of the edges of the gaskets that meet the China wall will also help @1Road
Quite a misleading video for most cases. In general you don't need anywhere near as much as you are suggesting, in almost all cases the finished joint will be very very thin , putting a 3mm thick bead across the whole width of the flange will result in 95%+ of the sealant being expelled out the side of the flange or worse into coolant and oil-ways depending on the joint being sealed. What is on the inside of the engine can break off and get into the intake. The real problem here is that the whole intake manifold and gasket setup being used is not right . I suspect the blue gaskets used are way thicker than OE resulting in a much bigger gap to be sealed at the ends of the valley. Depending how thick the final seal is that RTV seal may not last long , it's not designed to seal wide gaps.
Proper torque sequence and pattern is important too. Both installing and removing
Same thing happened to me ONCE on a chevy 4.3. I learned from that mistake and now make sure it is VERY clean absolutely no oil on the surface where the gasket maker goes and let it dry overnight.
Tip: Tech taught me a trick to get gaskets to stay put for assembly. 3M super 77 spray adhesive. Spray light coat on both gasket and surface, wait a moment for it to tack, then apply gasket. Word of caution, get the alignment right on first shot as this stuff sticks really good. Have done this many times since the early 90s' when he shared this tip. No more gasket squirting around at the slightest touch or gasket sliding down on a vertical surface etc.
No way !!!I just watch your video yesterday and now you have start over wow!
When building up that much I use a center punch and I put 10-12 dimples in the block and intake “S” turns. Gives it a little extra to grip on.
I use a 3/8 wide bead that resembles a stacked weld. I let it tack up and get a skin on it but still mushy. then torque to the recommended specs and you are home free. its a piece of cake once you do it a time or thrice.
An ATF technician told me to lay down a bead, then use a gloved finger to smear it around. This has worked for me everytime since.
Just at it down and smooth it out. Works for an air/fluid tight seal on all of the jobs I’ve done and it prevents excess amount from forming into the case
This job is the exception to the rule! Usually you want a minimum amount of RTV because the excess will likely end up in the engine. However, with these intakes the gap here is so wide it needs to be loaded up.
Can get longer bolts same tread cut off heads use them to guide intake & hold gaskets also. I do that also for transmissions to guide it in
I have used this method of just laying a bead of RTV down and its hit or miss no matter how you prep. The fel pro adhesive cork rail gaskets work much better, they dont move and are solid. Just add some rtv at the ends and a thin bead on top of the cork.
Thank you for sharing your experience, really save many to not repeat.
ive had a few of these intakes off to say the least. i was able to pull off and put back on these guys in a few hrs tops depending on what i was doing for the repair. and i never had to remove one for oil leaks or coolant. one of the best things you can do when applying silicone sealant. put a big ole thick glob on. then go in circles with your finger smoothing it out and smearing it around. it should look like a nice weld a bunch or dimes stacked on eachother. i also put a ring of it around the coolant passages on the heads then put the gasket on so both sides of it get the silicone on it in the front and back. then one more ring of silicone around the coolant passages on the top of the gasket and set intake smoosh it around a little and start the bolts let it sit 5-10 mins till the outside gets a little tacky but doesnt come off on your finger when you touch it. you want it to have a skin but still be pliable and wet inside the skin. then torque it down. the last part of lettting it skin is almost as important as smearing it around neatly. no bubbles. the skin lets it compress before it squishes out so it really fills in the gaps instead of just push out. also when cleaning mating surfaces always try to scrape along the surface and not across. on the back of the motor i seen a gouge going from the lifter valley cavity to the outside of the motor. those can cause leak channels and may never seal. one of my friends learned that the hard way recently and created a fire hazard that leaked about 8 quarts of oil in an oil change interval.
Having to sit on top of the engine bay is an especially important technique most mechanics fail to mention. 😁😉 Awesome video! Thanks!
yep im 79 and i can put a foot down on either side of the motor setting on the core support but it is a pain to climb back down to get something.
Before starting a job like this, drain all the coolant and replace with water. Then, use a shop vac set to blow and push as much water as possible out of the intake (disconnect lower rad hose). Won't have to do an oil change because nothing should fall into the engine pulling the intake, and if a small amount does, it's just water and will burn off without damaging anything.
Bro we have all been there. Thank you for your humility and persistence!
I've been doing this repair since 1978 on Chevy 350's 50% of the time the back s pattern would leak. Felpro used to supply a rubber gasket. And like a fool, we trusted it.
Then, when the ulta grey came on the market, the problem was solved.
Thank you for your video simple and perfect for my 84 trans am , i have the same probleme on my car now i can run with my car without oil on the ground 😀😀
The front liquid gasket looks beautiful.
Thankfully my one time doing this was on a Ford and they have additional gaskets for the side and you only need a dab of RTV in the corners.
Great video! Virtually all real learning comes from mistakes! Never give in!!! You are a Winner, for sure!!!
Great work as Always Jimmy @1Road
I've actually used rtv for intakes all the way around on several vehicles I've owned, sans any solid gasket & achieved long term good results - chev & ford v8s & inlines. ZERO gasoline erosion. ZERO vacuum/fluid leakage. Never a bad result. Sure, if you IMMERSE the stuff in gas, then yeah, dissolution. But on an intake? Not in my experience. Just adding this post as a side note.
I have done this job many times for many years I put a 3/8 bead across and go up onto the intake gaskets just a bit and I spread a thin amount on the water ports with my finger
I usually use high-temp silicone gasket maker IN ADDITION to the physical precut gasket, and am NEVER disappointed. Especially concerning automatic transmission and engine oil pans and main bearing seals.
Bad, bad practice. Use one or the other. We specifically have manufacturer TSB’s against this.
@@blackhawk7r221 When bolting together the two surfaces, and torquing to specs, the silicone can get squeezed too thin, and then fail due to chemical effects or pressure.
Do this experiment: Have a thin film line of completely cured silicone gasket sealer on a flat plate of metal. Then apply some gasoline, or motor oil, or transmission fluid. The edges of the line will start to lift apart from the metal plate. Solvents will affect it.
Silicone isn't super permanent, because if it was, a mechanic would have a MUCH more difficult disassembly.
when i did rtv jobs on my vw, they have service bulletins that tell you how thick your rtv line should be.
To replace the intake gaskets on this small block Chevy is baby stuff. Try it on an FE Ford. Especially one that still has the cast iron 100 lb intake manifold. You have to remove the valve covers and the rocker arm shaft assemblies and the pushrods, along with the carb and distributor and whatever else is in the way of all that to get down to the block and cylinder head surfaces.
Great when someone isn't afraid to admit to mistakes. That's the biggest way we learn. Those people who think they know everything and never admit to a mistake never progress to being Great.
Another nice one, Jimmy!
Oh-you gave me nightmares doing my vortex manifold gaskets....
Some ditties:
№ 1: Drawing coolant to a level below the manifold can help mitigate how much get dumped in the lifter valley; and
№ 2: The shop manual instructs to put adhesive up 1/2-inch on TOP of the bottom corners of the hard gaskets.
Your leak ii experienced may have been oil sneaking above the sealant and below the gasket and not necessarily going through gaps in the adhesive.
Can't Learn Without Making Mistakes Nice Work Jimmy @1Road
Always use Mopar RTV, never wait for the gasket to be set not even 15 mins, just apply and tighten. These things been proven by Farm Projects
Great video! I would add a couple other small details that will help get a good seal on those difficult manifold ends: 1. After cleaning sand both the block and intake with sandpaper. 2. Apply a thin layer of RTV on the intake in addition to the thick layer on the block.
Bro, absolutely not, never under any circumstance use sandpaper, or Emery cloth on gasket surfaces, gasket surfaces are machine to a certain flatness, and a certain tolerance, using sandpaper, can absolutely destroy those tolerances, use a non-maring material removing disc. or a surface safe razor blade. you were only trying to remove the varnish, fats, and previous gasket making material you are not trying to remove any amount of metal.
If you need use rtv on component seams like…for example, a small block Chevy intake manifold…three options… use RTV on the four corners of seams. Wait a specified amount of time for the sealer to cure, then torque to spec.
2. with the appropriate cork gasket, use the cork gasket, apply RTV to to the seams and the entire top of the cork gasket. You can even apply RTV to the entire front and rear gasket service of those intake manifold. Make sure you apply a very large amount as you said in the video almost too much, finger tight the manifold, come back within the specified amount of time and torque the manifold. I recommend “Permax the right stuff black” don’t you dare use sandpaper.
Terrible advice
@@timothyquimbycorrect
And just what is so terrible about it? Nothing wrong with cleaning the end surfaces with a fine sandpaper. And yes don't be stupid and dish the surface out with sandpaper just lightly clean it up.
I hand tighten everything, let it sit over night to cure then final torque. This way it doesn’t all squish out. Of course make sure everything is clean.
Back in the older days I used electric engraver to ruff up surfaces to help retain the silicone in place and still do it on air cooled engines every day because of vibration
Mahle gaskets have never let me down, felpro has
The best way to use it is to not use it very much. I don't use it on my diffs at all. I use Lube locker gaskets. Same with Transmission pan. It makes cleanup almost nonexistent, and the gaskets are reusable so buy one and that's it. I use RTV at the joint where the intake gaskets meet the valley gaskets but not a whole bead. just a dab in the corners. I'm a Small Block ford guy so I also use a dab at the joint where the Timing cover, oil pan and block all come together.
I would have used a thick bead of the Permatex Right Stuff 90 minute gasket maker. Snug the bolts up and 1 hour later torque them to spec. Then I wait 2-3 hours before adding fluid or using the vehicle, and then it's definitely dry and ready to add fluids and/or drive.
Respect to Jimmy
If you have stamps, take the X and space out Xs on the china rails. Gives RTV a little more grip. Than a smooth surface.
Appreciate the heads up on the RTv bud, Doing this exact job today on a 95 5.7 tbi.
Yeah good video. Definitely did the job correctly the second time. One thing I've learnt with V8 engines especially Chev is never ever use those rubber or cork end gaskets. That being said I need to re do my 327 in my 63 because I used the rubber end gaskets and they are leaking badly.
i've used them so many times and never had 1 leak ever
if you ever have to do this again, ty and find some of the same thread shoulder bolts extra long and cut the head off them and clean them up and put them on one side as a guide this holds the one gasket from moving and all you have to do is keep the one in place with your hand while you lower the manifold down at an angle on the headless bolts sticking up. then add bolts around to keep everything down and just remove the studs you made and reinstall normal bolts, helps a lot when you do things like this solo
Very good
I am a ford master mechanic. The use of silicone based sealers . Is all about cleanliness. This is more important with modern aluminum. And plastic parts but true of all . Clean with brake clean . Be very careful with scrapers and abrasive materiel . Like scotch brite pads . Any scratches can be a path to leaks . Again especially aluminum . There are products to use . First there are gasket removing chemicals use that . Next brake clean . Very modern plastic and or carbide scrapers with very very light pressure are good . Think clean no scratches . Next brake clean leaves a residue. Clean with engine shampoo after brake clean . The surface must be be clean wiped with a white cloth no dark on cloth . Final step is there are surface prep products . Dealers ( all manufactures have a product ) this is a final wipe metal parts only . Ford for example call it metal surface prep . If the product form beads it’s not clean . Last is silicone sealer designed for engines . Again dealer products are good there are others . Seems like a lot of work and it is . But this is the process factory manuals and techs use . Again especially aluminum engines . You will not have failures with this procedure . Sealer remover . Brake clean . Proper scrapers no scratches . Abrasives in general bad . Wipe with shampoo . Final with surface prep . Wear gloves . There is oil in skin . Then proper engine silicone . Hope this helps
I'm amazed at how crappily the manifold mates to the heads and block. Thats a massive amount of rtv if you're used to working on 90's Japanese stuff. After the rework, the amount used seems to be perfect for clogging oil passages.
Quality GM engineering
I made the mistake of not putting enough RTV on the intake of a freshly built motor. My concern was aesthetics. Ended up getting water/coolant in the cylinders and had to take it back apart.
Back in the day I worked in a VW (air cooled) engine shop. I can't tell you how many motors we saw ruined by RTV. The little "goobers" that are squished out to the outside an equal number are squished to the inside. Free to float around inside the motor plugging oil passageways. I will never use RTV on a motor. Red Permatex will dry and seal any gasket surface without creating the little goobers. 6:00
Thanks for the video. I think it's great to keep these older vehicles going. I'm not really interested in the complexity jump in cars after about 2010 to game the EPA fuel economy tests.
I did this job a few months ago on my OBS and I'm glad I used generous amounts of gasket maker.
I always clean it with brake parts cleaner, then smear it on both sides as if priming it, then a bead in middle.
Changed a head gasket on my Jeep not too long ago only to discover the piston rings were bad on a leakdown test. But hey, the timing chain cover held up just fine. 😅
the BETTER way to do this is by using quark gasket sheet and cutting a strip that size and RTV that down, takes a bit of back and forth on getting it the right size but imo better than a big glob of rtv being the only thing there. i have pulled a few of these sbc with those exact vortec heads before and they ALL had a quark gasket there.
The best gasket set is the felpro MS98000T, which has the intake manifold gaskets made of sheet metal