My Project Catamaran Gets Sealed Up! | Wildling Sailing
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- Опубліковано 20 лип 2023
- I filled up all my holes, with the help of:
Sil: • I bought a WOODEN SAIL...
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Hi Mark, so glad our little canal trip and your stay on Rival 2 reached the final edit! The next time you are bushed the invitation will be extended. Great to see you with new energy on such a mamoth but worlwhile project, Living the Dream! Yeah!!!!!
Was kind of you to host him.
How do you get to moor in such a prime spot? Are they moorings handed out by the council and a long waiting list or something?
What a legend.
Thanks for helping our boi, Mark.
Best series on the Tube.
Mr Leather as in boots, you are always amazing! Mark, I am happy that you enjoyed his fabulous houseboat!
One the most special things on this channel are all the nice people coming to Mark to help in different ways. ❤
WHAT A GREAT FRIEND TO LET YOU STAY AND REFLECT ON HIS HOUSE BOAT.
And whats a better city than Amsterdam to rent a GF for the weekend also? Perfect combination!😉
Bloomin' heck, everyone needs a Chris when they tour the Amsterdam canals! What a guy
Hi Mark, we enjoy watching your channel, having done a number of boat projects ourselves. We are from New Zealand and his in the indigenous maori language
MAHI means:
to work, do, perform
1. (verb) (-a,-ngia) to work, do, perform, make, accomplish, practise, raise (money)
Now, isn't that befitting!
Cheers
Rob and Maren
The JAWA shirt picks him out as a fan of esoteric old things. I've had a mind to build a JAWA bobber for a few years.
I lived in Amsterdam for 2 years and one of my most favorite things was to rent a boat and travel the canals of the downtown with the family... one of the most beautiful cities in the world.
@@Costag2020where houses..haha
Chris, anytime you have a tight space like the ones you were putting the backing plate into, consider using water bladder / bag. It allows you to pump in and pump out the water after use, plus water always finds it own level over the area to distribute weight even across the backing plate.
Sound advice, commenting to help it climb up to the top.
I went through the same thing with epoxy pumps, when the pumps get old and the epoxy gets low in the can, it can cause a bad mix ratio and poor curing. I now use a gram scale and add epoxy and hardener by weight.
Best way , ( gram scale ) I think .
If you don't clean them after use, yeah, the plastic membrane inside the pump gets deformed (by the epoxy) and it doesn't work anymore. It's like trying to pull water out of a well with a bucket with no bottom. You're supposed to take the pumps off after use and clean them. If you're gutsy, you take them apart, if you're not, you use whatever blend's going to dilute the raw components. Never had issues with mine, i always buy new ones for every new batch, but i use them fro the duration of the batch just fine.
Mark, you hit a home run with the soundtrack, I watched the episode 3x just for the music.
Try shoving a ball in the gap and inflating it after it is in your hold to get better pressure in the future projects.
The tool you bought is called a putty knife used in glazing windows, as the name suggests its used for applying putty around windows
11:55 Slow Mo sunglasses mounted into position may be arguably the coolest thing I've ever seen
I agree 💯 Bill,,,blinking awesome😂
Love this weeks music. Very appropriate surf music. Love it. Lol.
Those sunglasses falling into place automaticaly😂😂😂
I loooved that bit tooooo😂😂😂
Keep on keeping on Mark, one job at a time and keep your head up Mate! Have a bad day, drink some beers✌️✌️✌️
Though I would recommend he drink some Belgian beers. Dutch beverages are ok, but nothing like the beer they brew over the border!
Nice video and I really like seeing the Jawa-ČZ t-shirt, greetings from Czech Republic, home of Jawa
I’m sitting here on a hot & sunny British Columbia day, enjoying your vlog and a Vancouver Island IPA. Perfect afternoon!
At last an opportunity to say “ well done!” The work on the holes in the hulls is “ excellent” Your prep work and quality of work is outstanding! Unlike your windows , as you say time will tell, the first big waves and high humidity will see leaks , anyway the job is done now so moving forward hopefully you are receiving great advice and listening to it , Remember Sicaflex 421 is the only silicone to use not some cheap one , it’s expensive but quality otherwise you will end up doing the same job twice.
Hello Mark. Have been watching the channel and love your enthusiasm and spirit. While there are many armchair experts on social media I am not one of them. In fact this is my very first comment on UA-cam. And you are my first subscribed channel. I did this due to my extreme concern for your safety at sea. I have spent the fifty years or so sailing, building, repairing, inspecting and delivery all kinds of watercraft. My soul and the vast amount of my experience has been spent in on and under wooden vessels. My livelihood for many years has been surveying vessels and investigating significant structural failures.
As I now see numerous constructive comments have been made mostly pertaining to scarfing the joints of the repair. This is advice that you should strongly consider following. A comment was made as to the viscosity of the epoxy and the numbers and types of fasteners employed. Again it is something that can be improved upon. Fasteners can be added post repair.
What really caught my attention was when I noticed that the beam was capped with plywood. I suspect that the bottom of the beam is capped with plywood as well. From a structural standpoint the capping of the beams with plywood adds a tremendous amount of additional strength in both compression, tension, and torsion. Plywood in tension and torsion performs significantly better than dimensional lumber.
YOUR REPAIR HAS SIGNIFICANTLY COMPROMISED THE STRUCTURAL STRENGTH AND PERFORMANCE OF THE BEAM ASSEMBLY.
Think long and hard about that. Not much fails in fair winds and following seas….
I believe it will be very easy reintroduce plywood capping to the assembly. There are other methods that could add significant tension strength such as carbon fibre ribbons etc.
A complete new overlay of marine plywood with scarfed joints as a new cap on the beam would be a very simple and economical solution.
I would be more than happy to share any advice that would contribute to your project and it’s success.
As always the great thing about unsolicited advice is
1. You didn’t ask for it
2. You don’t have to listen to it
3. You didn’t have to pay for it!
Sincerely I look forward to seeing you achieve your goals
Cheers
Not fancy,just functional. I like your style
Piece of advice about plugging holes. You don't want to put plugs (cylinders) you want to put in truncated cones in (negative) truncated cone holes. Idea is, you're no relying on the epoxy to hold the plug in, you're actually putting the plywood to work (which is in reverse for the rest of the hull, most of the strength comes from the glass). Idea is, if you ever, by bad luck, strike a plug, which is a non-zero chance, you won't have to worry about it cracking. I know some people think it's ok, but i strongly believe that those kinds of holes (and in general any repair under the water line) should be done with beveled edges. It's more work for sure, but nothing a good chamfer bit can't do in a jiffy. jm2c
Fastest 27 minutes, on UA-cam.
Keep these videos coming!
Those beams looked heavy.
One goal done on to the next ... nothing in the world more satisfying to a sailor then knowing the boat you are on is seaworthy and you have made it so ... and you get to sail it around the world ... 😊😊😊😊
I'm Takako who you helped me with on Kokernoot.
After all, when running, the temperature of the engine rises, so
Ship directly to Kadoelenwerf Jachtservice,
I had the owner's mechanic check it out.
As you said, there is a lot of air left in the water pipe, and the water is not circulating to cool the engine.
I got the air out and the water started to circulate in about 30 minutes.
I am currently in the center of Amsterdam.
Unfortunately, I cannot call your cell phone from my cell phone.
So I posted on your channel.
I look forward to your channel.
thank you. Takako
Your fibreglassing skills are coming on leaps and bounds , nice work 😃🍻
Woohoo. Rot.....🤫
Glad to see you using better spatula.
I prefer plastic ones. They conform better, they clean easy, and they are cheap n disposable. I also use plastic applicators to not only apply but also to smear and level. I have often needed one when away from shops so I make them out of ice cream tubs or lids. Rectangle 100x60 is a good size. They will allow you to mold curved surfaces. Nice to see epoxy oozin too. Keep up the good work
Next time i would switch the order of the glass mats from big to small instead of what done now(small to big). This way if the middle sticks out and you start sanding it down the big mat will be intact and thus give you strength instead of you sanding out the middle part of the big mat.
There is a decent amount of debate on this point. Andy over at boat works today advocates for the small to large approach so that each piece has a mechanical connection to the hull. I tend to agree with him as well.
Ah, the flower district in the Dam. Love that city.
Mate, there are precious few channels on UA-cam that get me to binge an entire series of their vids, so count yourself in that precious few now! As for the ones that are naysaying your judbement on your boat, just tell em to bugger off and do what you need to for your boat and your budget. I envy the ability of you to be able to do the boating dream that you have. I once would have loved to live on my own sailboat, but hehe, now with my mid 50's hitting the old body can't do it. Cheers to you bud!
you are doing all right lad. If you ever get to New Zealand give us shout and we'll come give you hand
Looks like you are enjoying that beer. Well good on you!
Hi Mark, if your pump does not give you what you want, you can also get a cheap kitchen scale and mix by weight instead of volume. I use this method because I do not have pumps (because the leave a mess sometimes). Cheers!
Videos have never been so good! The fun is in the come up.
Wow thank you Chris for helping our friend Mark with a much needed break. You have a beautiful house boat.. enjoy your videos Mark I am so jealous of your life...
You do the repair work very well. I congratulate you. You teach how to for beginners. You have a very good helper. Thank you very much for sharing your teachings.
What can i say Mark your fibreglassing skills have improved 100% you will have no doubts when crossing oceans on Minki well done mate
Ups! Mahi
He's been paying attention to that nice man over at ' boatworkstoday ' ;-) 🙂
Hi there, another great video celebrating your excellent progress, well done! As a UA-camr myself, I was wondering if you could advise the broad spec of your video editing gear, such the editing software and also the laptop I presume you’re using? I spend all summer on my Dutch Boarncruiser 365 New Line, so can’t get access to my own video editing stuff which is at home. I’m therefore interested in how you manage it whilst spending many hours working on your boat? Cheers and look forward to the next video 😎
STERLING WORK MARK OLD BOY.. YOUR SKILLS ARE. FANTASTIC.VERY FEW CAN DO THE WORK U ARE A NATURAL AT THIS WORK..WELL DONE INDEED . YOUR MUM AND DAD WILL BE GLOWING WITH PRIDE FOR YOUR AWESOME WORK AND INTERESTING VIDEOS..
Great job on those Thru hull holes man. One less potential water intrusion point to worry about.
Chris! Right on man. Love watching Mahi getting love. She will be so happy soon
Cowabunga... Yup, wood equals rot on neglected boats, always!!! It's going to be hard to leave such a nice country but I think sailing to the Dutch West Indies would be a perfect place to spend the winters...
I've been watching you on and off for a few years. Fantastic the way you have improved your skills, kept costs down, and now spending cash when needed 👍👍👍keep going. I have a feeling you will achieve all your goals and then some.
Everyone saying you are getting good at glass! I definitely agree, nice work!
Good show Mark! Every week a better boat.
You should put the largest patch of mat on first then fill concave with ever decreasing diameter patches . It's about surface area of the first bond .
Whatever you're doing fiberglass you start with the small patches first and then Build It Up that's just the way it's done
Let the big to small .. small to big war begin!! 😜 I prefer small to big, easier to get fair in the end.. honestly.. from a strength perspective, don't think it matters as long as you get all the air out 😊
Well one argument is, if you do the big first then every layer on top is dependent on the bond of the first layer. If you do it small first then every layer has some of it bonded to the hull.
Little knowledge is dangerous thing. Please don't give advice while you don't have good knowledge and experience.
Here is a question for you; What is the point of putting the small discs on the top of the bigger ones? Where is the strength of the patch 🤔?? Or what's the purpose of the smaller ones on top of the bigger ones 😳 even Mr Beens knows better😅
Hes not filling with glass hes glassing in a plug then filling with fairing comp so small to big is the correct way to increase the bond to hull area.
Don't try to fix rotten cross beams make new one's , laminate them.I built a Woods design cat in 1997 .great fun and fast .
There is wisdom in that. The lateral strains need long, continuous sections.
Good job with the through holes. I love that you got a boat without through holes. You are in the exception.
Nice job Mark. Was hopin when I retired to build a similar 35fter, couldn't find a house with a double garage in my price range, so. .....! Nice job, keep up the good work. Thanks m8!
You're doing things today that you would never have dreamt of doing when you first set out on little Good Tidings!
Holding pads, Buy a hot glue gun (good boat builders trick): In future apply epoxy glue to both surfaces but leave tiny area around that glued surface at the edges ; when ready to position pad, apply dobs of hot glue onto the bare wood edge. Position and push down v hard. Your hot glue will set solid in about 20 secs and will hold the pad in place whilst the epoxy sets. Then finish the edges if necessary. This technique works beautifully when you are also sticking items down with Sikka, which itself takes 40 mins.
Good job done.. if you are using a brush to tamp the resin into the fiberglass cut of the top end of the brush . It will make the brush stiffer and you get the resin more easy into the fiberglass . Keep up the good job .
Yes! Was going to make that comment. Suggest reducing brush bristles to half their length, cut with scissors. Using brush to work epoxy into fiberglass is called stippling. Also recommend using peel ply (dacron polyester cloth) on top of wet fiberglass for final layer. Then peel it off when dry- makes for less sanding before filling/gel coat or priming.
oooh guy, you are definitely cool, restoring such a project, but count how much time and effort it took you to do this, if you took out a loan since you don’t have any savings, and bought a more durable boat or catamaran, then you would have repaid this loan a long time ago and enjoyed the sea. Definitely thank you for sharing the content on how you restore the nicromancer. You have gained a lot of experience in repairs.
Good progress! Make sure the WEST pumps are fully primed, before mixing, even if some resin and hardener is always wasted. Also to avoid long term sensitisation always use a chemical mask. Will be worth it in 30 years time.
Bruno Dias Mark old boy..!! Nice bit of work you have done everything is coming along wonderfully...your mum and dad just be so Proud of you. !!
Hi Mark, love your video’s! We sailed through Amsterdam last week and saw your boat from a distance. Looks really good that way (from a distance 😊) so good luck with this project, I am sure that when you get the rot solved you will have a great boat to conquer the oceans
Well done Mark. Your glassing skills are definitely improving, and so pleased you took good advice to remove all through hulls. I am a little concerned over the amount of soft/rotten wood on those cross beams. Perhaps good a marine carpenter to replace them??
Well done mate.
They looked too rigid for me as constructed. I know that Wharram tweaked his designs over the years to allow for more flexing. I would create something like leaf springs on older cars - individual laminates of wood held together by clamps or straps. Easier to fix if one goes bad.
for the best epoxy joint, have the wood natural, paint on neat epoxy so that it soaks in, but then glue it with thickened epoxy before the neat epoxy has set. Then you get a _chemical_ bond between the thickened and unthickened epoxy - which as seeped into the wood someway. If you let the epoxy harden, then sand it, you only get a mechanical bond. It's just the epoxy sticks into the cracks created by sanding, not as good as having molecules that stretch deep into the wood. Also, if you don't let the wood soak up some epoxy, it can suck epoxy out of the joint.
Although, I don't think it will really matter for something like the through hulls which aren't really under very much strain.
I enjoy your tube channel Dominic, i was thinking about your project when Mark bought his boat, good to see you here keeping an eye on things ;)
@@peterb9038 yup and Mark tells me he's watched my videos too!
Your buddy's boat has the keel off a shark .
Good to see you're revitalised Mark and doing a cracking job. Folk like Chris make this world a better place. Crack on. ❤
Hi Mark
Any repair on a structural part of a boat especially a beam on a catamaran should be scarfed in using clear timber with no knots using a taper of 15 to 1 each end to maintain the full structural strength. Clear Douglas fir is readily available from timber yards.The last thing you want is a beam failure at sea.
Watching your video's makes me want to buy a boat. Now I have been looking at yachts for sale and I have started saving.
I think something like Good Tidings or something a tiny bit bigger would be good as my son wants to sale with me.
Please keep the Video's comming, your doing a fantastic job. I hope you have many happy sailing days to come and good luck with your project.
I hope Yoshy is doing great also.
it might have been an idea to have made the thruhull plywood discs slightly cone shaped facing inwards so as to allow water pressure to always exert inwards on them, just belt and braces approach.
That would have been a good idea, but I think those patched he made are stronger than the rest of the hull.
Or use fiberglass
Nice technique applying the fiberglass! Cuz the fibers likes to come apart when epoxying small cut fiberglass pieces onto a surface. Great job!
Good to see you precoating all the individual components for the hull with epoxy before fitting...👍
I can sleep at nights now...😅
Good looking patch job on the thru holes. Sweet.
I'm happy you were able to recouperate for a few days Mark
Good morning from Christchurch 🇳🇿
Clever move taking the time off. Good for your body and great for your spirits. I agree your fibreglassing skills are improving quickly by the looks of it.... less clean up of epoxy after from what I saw.... good on you giving it a crack.
Keep putting one foot in front of the other.... that's how you climb mountains......
Regards from Australia
Maybe use sandbags or bags of lead shot to weigh down the backing plates. The bags could conform themselves to odd shaped spaces.
When fibreglassing to ply, its best to make the first thin layer glass mat. This hold more resin than cloth and allows for the ply absorbing some of the resin. After the mat, add layers of cloth. This will give the best bond to ply and strength
Another awesome update! Loved the Amsterdam canal / boat tour
Mark?,,,Would it be a "biased Mum" thing to say,,,"You've simply got the X Factor"!!!!,,& Chris,,,,"What an absolute true gentleman"🤗⛵️🤗
It's remarkable how healthy your hull core looks. Keep on keeping on.
That`s what I thought also. Solid hull.
I think the filling of the through-holes should be good. I don't think I would have used backing plates. Glassing over the inside might be OK.
Hi. I'm a professsional boatbuilder with over 20 years on the job. The job Mark has done on these holes is fine. You are also correct in that glassing over the inside would also work however not using the boatcloth he is using. The boatcloth is not structural and only adds minimal strength, it is mostly a sealing layer and gives a nicer finish.. Mark would need to use a heavier DB cloth or similar to be able to replace the backing plates with fibreglass. Cheers
@@shanecooper3829 Good to get a pro advising us. Do you mean BD or can you give us the lowdown on "DB Cloth"?
Plug jobs lookin perfect. Thanks for the video.
Rock solid repairs on those thru-hulls Mark , great job !
In the States we call it a “putty knife “. Great friend you made!
Actually, same here in UK!
Good job Mark. Those patches look to be the strongest on the hull now 😊
filling holes - imho your best decision so far!
I think ppl meant that before you apply thickened epoxy first coat the surface with unthickened epoxy so the surface is wetted out to receive the thickened epoxy.
Fantastic workmanship Mark, look how far you have come since tinkering with good tidings, anyone who says different can just F R OFF
She's beautiful!! Happily deserving all the love she's getting. Great job... really enjoy seeing it and its great you have assistance.
When you put a glued-on patch on the inside, I do it using SOFT BRASS countersunk screws with the unmachined shank no longer than the thickness of your patch, so that the outer hull is completely enclosing threaded shank with the points protruding through the outside of the hull. (Do not use those damned brass coasted steel screws). One holds the un-glued patch and drills two diagonally opposite holes, put the patch in place and tighten those two screws, then drill the other holes through patch and hull as the size of the patch dictates. Remove the patch after marking top and bottom, countersink the holes on the top of the patch, then using a tooth pick, put epoxy resin into the drilled hole in both patch and hull . Glue the patch, and just WET the interior side of the hull before you butter the patch with glue, and then insert and tighten the screws in sequence. This method holds the glued patch tightly in place until it sets. Soft brass sands easily, removing those points of the screws protruding outside the hull. I use the same technique for putting on butt straps. When the glue has set, simply sand off the soft brass and leave the screws in place for extra strength and look-nice.
👍 Things are coming along. Progress is good. You are getting the boat in order. Cheers. 🤗 ⛵
Setting full beer bottles on your fiberglass might get the cloth wet, that will cause your layup to potentially fail.
You are getting there!!!!
That straight bit of wood against your curved hull is leveling out the curve in your hull.
You need a curved bit of wood and you'll find it's a thicker layer of fibre glass 😊
that's like splitting hairs. I'm guessing he wants to get out of the yard soon
Yeah, but in Wharram, there is b' all curve, especially down low. It wont make any difference.
Well done on the through hull removal. When I converted Moon Shadow to electric propulsion I was able to get rid of two and it felt great! I hope the rot in the beams isn't terminal. Great work though Mark, Mahi is going to be awesome.
Good to see how well the hull is finished, when you prepared the skin holes for closing up. You did a great job ! Enjoy Nederland !
Maybe you could have a design contest for the plans of cockpit/salon and interconnecting the hulls. A lot of good ideas will probably come too light.
Looking good Mark and you definitely needed to have a break... you look refreshed!!!! Coffee shop & a brass??? 😊😉
Keep going mate... Dreams are meant to be chased.
Hello Mark, be sure to have those beams inspected....they stand tons of pressure square inch. If they're rotted no amount of fiberglass will hold. If the structural integrity is compromised they could break under pressure. Be safe buddy!
100% agreed, if you seen the post mortem of zingaro, remember she broke up of Hawaii? Luckily James managed to strap her together and motor in, the fail points were all them beam and what they were mounted to, although i think some flex is in this particular design, personally to cross oceans I would be tempted to not only make sure the beams and mount points are seriously perfect, I would be tempted to add a huge stainless H frame..
The quality of this video is amazing. I loved the music too. It was very satisfying to see cleaning of the through hulls and the glassing afterwards. I can't believe you manage both the work and the producing of a good quality video in one week. Wow!
Good show Mark, your music choice was excellent to the work you were carrying out.
Have you thought about wedging the hole shape outwards mate ? It only takes a small angle 🙏🏽👍🏾
😄 those thru hulls were in nasty places. A problem on the ocean would have been impossible.
Love the Music..
Stay positive and keep going 🎉🎉
Hi Mark,
You’re getting along with fixing the holes in Mahi. I know your skills because you’ve done something similar with Minky. For sure with Mahi this will work out even better. The rest of Mahi seems to be in a not too bad condition so I guess you’ll be able to restore this catamaran within the time you can stay in this boat yard. Wish you lots of success with the rest of the refit and look forward to your next vlog
Great share, really enjoying your saga.