Really liked the way you explained the reasons behind the sequence of install. Although I have a 2001, this was still some great info. Will be doing my up-pipes soon, need to get my turbo(KC Turbo) ordered soon. Thanks. Keep the great videos coming.
Yea well I have a donar motor for a gtp38 upgrade... Done took the up pipes off come to find out they are basically fkd so yeah me... Buying bellowed pipes.
Be thankful if your up pipes come a little bit loose, makes installing much easier. Mine were a very snug fit and what a PIA to do in the truck by myself
Just FYI,for the Turbo to the collector 4 bolts. Use some copper washers on the bolthead/nut and tefflon anti-seize on the threads. Your future self will thank you next time you have to pull the turbo.
@@jacktripper5911 Nope, not so far. I have had them on for 4 years. Pulled the Turbo once about 2 years ago and they were not loose at all. But , BTW, I use Copper WASHERS only. The nuts and bolts are steel. With the copper washers it stops the nuts and bolts from rusting to the Turbo Flange making it easier to loosen. Works like a dream.
Not quite sure why but I completely followed this guide--by loosening the crossmember and lifting and lowering the trans, this job becomes very easy! Often times if you have a larger downpipe on the OBS it'll hit the firewall, but wiggling the engine around fixes that issue. However, I've got a killer exhaust leak now and I'm not quite sure how that happened. My old donut gaskets leaked like crazy but this is even worse now. I have to drive with the windows down and I can't see my brand new kc300x do anything :(
@@KCTURBOS funny you replied, I just fixed the leak. All it was is loose manifold to up pipe bolts--obviously I should've thought that through--after the first few heat cycles, the bellows expand and/or contract and that movement can loosen them back up. Tightened the bolts and she's much quieter, and the boost difference is noticeable! Now obviously it didn't make the truck into a speed demon but I definitely noticed how much SMOOTHER the power delivery is. I'll make 6-8psi just accelerating off a light now, and it comes on a tad under 2000rpm. Compared to my old leaky TP38, I would really only see about 10psi if I was merging onto the highway at 2500rpm. It would make about 26psi or so at full tilt, but I haven't ripped the new turbo too much yet. I saw it hit 15 but I haven't pushed it. I shall see soon! After my 500 or so mile drive I'll leave a review on full force diesel, where I bought it from!
@@santosmendieta6447the donut is only if you retain the non bellowed style. the bellowed up pipes are flanged and just bolt up. you have to regularly re tighten after the heat cycles expand and contract the bellows, though
One of the things I noticed on this video is that the up-pipes you are using are meant for the OBS 7.3, when I ordered my set I received the same ones but for my E99 7.3. Do both use the same one? The reason I bring this up is that the one on the drivers side, after I installed it, the bellow hits the top part of the transmission housing. So every time I turn on the truck or when I am on the road you can hear it rattle. I already made sure all bolts are good, also took it to a shop to make sure I didn’t mess it up and yet it keeps rubbing against the housing. I’m not sure If I got the wrong ones but at this point I will have to modify the driver side up pipe, might have to move the bellow to the top, so it doesn’t hit.
It's not to bad the driver side is the hardest but it will come out and go back in if you move the pip and the eye in the right place,,,lis easier if you have some one on top helping move the pip
Me: looks easy enough
My truck: *stares wide-eyed *aggressively drags cigarette
LMAO
Really liked the way you explained the reasons behind the sequence of install. Although I have a 2001, this was still some great info. Will be doing my up-pipes soon, need to get my turbo(KC Turbo) ordered soon. Thanks. Keep the great videos coming.
Wish i had my engine out of the truck lol
I said the same thing to myself watching this😩
Lol just lift the truck up above the house 😂
@@ZPreztonmy 7.3 ended up getting totaled now i have an n/a 6.9 idi
Yea well I have a donar motor for a gtp38 upgrade... Done took the up pipes off come to find out they are basically fkd so yeah me... Buying bellowed pipes.
Wow this is quite helpful. Wish you had a little more detail on recommended order for initial removal too
Just bought a balanced kit n ped delete for a gtp38 from you guys, dreading the up pipes part of the project for sure ...
Be thankful if your up pipes come a little bit loose, makes installing much easier. Mine were a very snug fit and what a PIA to do in the truck by myself
Just FYI,for the Turbo to the collector 4 bolts. Use some copper washers on the bolthead/nut and tefflon anti-seize on the threads. Your future self will thank you next time you have to pull the turbo.
Being that copper is a softer metal wouldn’t those nuts and bolts loosen up over time through vibration and friction?
@@jacktripper5911 Nope, not so far. I have had them on for 4 years. Pulled the Turbo once about 2 years ago and they were not loose at all. But , BTW, I use Copper WASHERS only. The nuts and bolts are steel. With the copper washers it stops the nuts and bolts from rusting to the Turbo Flange making it easier to loosen. Works like a dream.
Thanks for a good explanation!
Glad it was helpful!
I'll be replacing mine this week along with adding manifold gaskets, oh I can't wait 😮💨
Yeah its definitely a bear to do... But the silver lining is as long as you do it right you should not have to replace the up-pipes ever again!
@@KCTURBOS Yeah im having a terrible time😂 , cant get the driver side pipe out any tips?
Very well explained!
I’m doing mine tonight. Going to be a PITA
Not quite sure why but I completely followed this guide--by loosening the crossmember and lifting and lowering the trans, this job becomes very easy! Often times if you have a larger downpipe on the OBS it'll hit the firewall, but wiggling the engine around fixes that issue.
However, I've got a killer exhaust leak now and I'm not quite sure how that happened. My old donut gaskets leaked like crazy but this is even worse now. I have to drive with the windows down and I can't see my brand new kc300x do anything :(
Gotta get that leak fixed my friend!
@@KCTURBOS funny you replied, I just fixed the leak. All it was is loose manifold to up pipe bolts--obviously I should've thought that through--after the first few heat cycles, the bellows expand and/or contract and that movement can loosen them back up. Tightened the bolts and she's much quieter, and the boost difference is noticeable! Now obviously it didn't make the truck into a speed demon but I definitely noticed how much SMOOTHER the power delivery is. I'll make 6-8psi just accelerating off a light now, and it comes on a tad under 2000rpm. Compared to my old leaky TP38, I would really only see about 10psi if I was merging onto the highway at 2500rpm. It would make about 26psi or so at full tilt, but I haven't ripped the new turbo too much yet. I saw it hit 15 but I haven't pushed it. I shall see soon! After my 500 or so mile drive I'll leave a review on full force diesel, where I bought it from!
Yep, removed the cross member on DS only. Used floor jack to slightly lower trans. DS slid right in.
@@MCatwardid you end up taking out the donut crusher
Manifold to up pipe or did you replace it with a new one?
@@santosmendieta6447the donut is only if you retain the non bellowed style. the bellowed up pipes are flanged and just bolt up. you have to regularly re tighten after the heat cycles expand and contract the bellows, though
Which ones do you recommend for E99? Since I didn’t see a gasket or sealant on the manifold end, is there a possibility of exhaust leak there?
Them Taps is not a Straight shot the side of the Transmission stick out a bit we're it's put together
One of the things I noticed on this video is that the up-pipes you are using are meant for the OBS 7.3, when I ordered my set I received the same ones but for my E99 7.3. Do both use the same one?
The reason I bring this up is that the one on the drivers side, after I installed it, the bellow hits the top part of the transmission housing. So every time I turn on the truck or when I am on the road you can hear it rattle. I already made sure all bolts are good, also took it to a shop to make sure I didn’t mess it up and yet it keeps rubbing against the housing. I’m not sure If I got the wrong ones but at this point I will have to modify the driver side up pipe, might have to move the bellow to the top, so it doesn’t hit.
hey did you every fix this issue? i hear the same thing on mine
Yes.
I ended up modifying the pipe.
Moved the bellow that was hitting the transmission housing upwards.
How hard would this be with the motor and trans (E40D) in the truck
It's not to bad the driver side is the hardest but it will come out and go back in if you move the pip and the eye in the right place,,,lis easier if you have some one on top helping move the pip
I notice you have a few up pipe options for the 94-98 7.3L. Which one do you suggest getting?
We like the Odawgs Up-pipes for the OBS.