A thermal device that does (almost) everything
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- One device to rule therm-all heheheh sorry
Today we're taking a look at the AGM StingIR 640, a thermal monocular designed to be helmet mounted, but that can also be used as a thermal clip on, or even a thermal weapon sight in a pinch. Most thermal devices tend to be very specialized, but the StingIR is a jack of almost all thermal trades. Let's see if the tradeoffs are worth the added capability.
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for anyone wondering its $3,954
Damn it
Too late already googled, yeah might as well get the rh25 right? What you think?
your channel is so incredibly informative its insane. No bs, no sponsor, just facts
Just facts… brassfacts
and SOCKO!
Def the dark horse of the TFB contributors
I love when a youtuber starts hinging an entire how-to around a mediocre products near useless frill feature, especially when they explain they have found themselves in repeated near fantasy situations where they really could have used the trademarked product.
"Basic, fairly affordable PVS-14"
-Me with a streamlight and green filter to LARP at night 😢
You don’t NEED night vision or thermals for 99.99% of practical scenarios. Go find me a self defense case where someone used NODs or thermals.
@@flooid5506If you are still in the "2A is for self defence" crowd, you stumbled into the wrong part of the internet, move along.
@@flooid5506what does self defense have to do with this? This isn’t an edc item this is a preparation item. I’m sure many people fighting in Ukraine or the entire gwot would argue that night vision and thermal is incredibly effective. No one is trying to say thermal will protect you from a home intruder.
@@flooid5506who has ever said you need night vision 😂 most of us may never fire our rifle at another person but it’s nice to be prepared for anything. more of a warrior in a garden type of mentality
It's $2,300 for a green PVS 14. $40 bump helmet and $10 surplus J arm.
Excellent points about hybrid thermal. Some people think it can do it all, but it's not for everyone.
My MH25v2 from you guys has been friggen awesome paired with my PVS14 (USNV gen 3). Took a little getting use to but It has made finding targets/animals at night a breeze, really, too easy. In fact I constantly find deer and coyote, even field mice, that I would have missed with just my NVG alone. Another huge benefit is I'm able to look into dark buildings (barns, sheds, etc) where I would have needed my illuminator with just the pvs14 to see, the thermal looks right in, I can see everything doesn't matter how dark it is. I use an adjustable iris on my NVG and I can mostly balance the picture out between the two devices to help compensate for the "brain wanting to take one picture" Hop was mentioning. I guess I'm one of those who can make it work and it's amazing, in fact I couldn't imagine NOT having it at this point.
The issues with eyes not being able to collimate the disparate images spunds a lot like the adjustment process AH-64 aircrew have to go through to work with the monocle display on their helmet.
Ed Macy's excellent book "Apache" describes the process. It's not that the eyes have to adjust to the monocle display. It's that the left eye has to focus on the monocle display while the right has to follow the displays on the instrument panel and what's happening outside the aircraft. Two completely different images at very different focal lengths, often also with different light levels. It's possible, but the transition is hard, takes time, and is often accompanied by intense headaches.
Some folks can adjust to that kind of split visual input easily. With others, it takes a while. Others can't do it at all. The question when considering hybrid NV goggles is, which are you, and how much time (and, potentially, pain) are you willing to invest to train your eyes to work that way.
@@christopherreed4723 Very well said and this is what we constantly tell people to adjust their expectations. I think a lot of people think it'll be as seamless as something like a JerryC COTI (Clip-On Thermal Imager) but in reality there's a much steeper learning curve.
iray hybrid50
Depends on your usage. I have a voodoo s thermal monocular that also functions as a decent clip on.
For an optically 1x thermal clip on, the FOV is going to be directly proportional to how much magnification it will support. Lesser the FOV= more back end demag (optical demag if it's good as opposed to digital)= more day time mag support, increasing the pixel density.
On dual banding, the voodoo works very well in that aspects due to the BAE core providing an image that reminiscent of a high FOM PVS 14, as well as it being a true optical 1x unit. I use to very often for yote hunting up here in the north. It works if you have the correct unit. It beats the shit out of binos with a COTI-type device...I know, I've owned both. The PID and detection range of a dedicated thermal monocular smokes COTI-type devices.
Also, milspec units like the voodoo s have optical collimation that do not require adjusting the display to match your day time zero. I'll be putting up a much more detailed review on it very soon.
I aspire to thermal one day..... man I need to get a second job
A third and fourth job wouldn't hurt either looking at these price tags.
@@SatanasExMachina f*ckin' A, right?
Money
Agm has some cheap $500 options that are actually pretty decent
Only one extra job? Lucky
It doesn't help that my first exposure to FLIR devices was a $6 million Lockheed targeting pod. Kinda ruined everything from there on out, especially 'budget' civilian stuff.
LANTIRN huh? You should see one of the shit L3 has now.
@@SolomonSamson747 nah, Sniper pods
At least it wasn’t a Sssniperpod
What was its pixel per meter resolution?
Also did you get to work with the jammer?
@@valgo8128 hell yeah I did, spent half my nights driving one around
I don’t need both kidneys, right?
I can't see why you would
actually, you don't, as long as they are both healthy due to a medical complication my kidney on my right side is only working at like 40% but according to doc im chilling cause my left kidney is good or something. idk
@@sponjis6944sell your bad kidney and say no backsies
Or both testicles!
I've been able to run a pvs14/Breach combo with some success.
To do so, I'd recommend the following:
1. Make sure the nv is over the dominant eye.
2. Tweak the brightness of the thermal so that it's less than that of the pvs14. (Otherwise my vision ends up defaulting to the thermal despite it being the non-dominant eye.)
3. Use the "Outdoor Alert" function on the Breach. This will help keep the thermal "overlay" simple as it will just serve to highlight hotspots of potential interest. All other settings will just clutter everything up and will just end up drawing your vision into the thermal as seen in #2.
Same. @NiteWalker has a very informative video on how to enhance the possibility of collimating the images. Playing w/ the settings definately can help. Of course in some cases the brain is unable to process the overlay. Luckily for me the settings described in your comment have allowed me to utilize a PVS-14 & FLIR Breach as a "bino" .... I use the RAVYN Group Bridge.
@@BayouDoggin glad to hear. I'll definitely give NiteWalker's video a buzz. Thanks.
I do look forward to a PVS 14 clipon thermal review. Seems like the best all around option, assuming it can be tweaked accordingly.
Weight and expense just gets so far up there. I don’t think thermal/NVG combos will be that worth while until we have digital NVGs worth a damn that can be built in to thermal units.
I've had pretty good luck with my Jerry c5. Aiming with a laser/illuminator washes out the thermal, but it's really nice passive aiming as long as you have it aligned correctly. I've dropped a couple coyotes with passive aiming with good luck!
Eh, think a QD TWS or clip-on for your group's marksmen should be the priority long before you get around to helmet-mounted thermals.
They all have their pluses. Helmet mounted is the king of detection while scanning. I see things way before my friends with TWS
It's only good for LARPing and detecting human sized targets. For actually hunting use at night, a dual band setup with a true 1x optical monocular is league's better.
I have a used BAE Skeet IR-L and it essentially has the versatility of the StingIR with the UI of the Breach. However its biggest flaw is its 320x resolution sensor despite the quality components, and the fact that said components and software are discontinued with no manufacturer support.
The Trijicon Skeet IR-X at 640x is probably the best on the market but its price tag is magnitudes higher than most thermal monoculars.
Edit: Brand name corrections
The RH25 is basically the “China SkeetIR”. It’s obviously not as duty grade, but at under $5k currently, isn’t a bad deal.
@@mikef5694 I never would have bought the Skeet-IR L if it wasn't being sold used in the $3-4k range. 320x is very limited especially for clip-on even if the Wilcox mounting system and screen resolution is good. As for iRay products, The MH25 is a good choice if you want the size and weight of a Skeet-IR, trading a bit of FOV for better resolution and e-zoom but no clip-on capability. Haven't had time behind the RH25, I hear the performance is good but the UI can be hard to work with. There's also the NOX18 but I know even less about that unit.
We used the SkeetIR at work for a very short time. It wasn't useful at the ranges we needed to use them for so ultimately we pissed away several hundred thousand dollars for gear that would have been great for a completely different mission.
@@jfk767 I can believe that. Its impressive for what it is, but a thermal spotter or proper clip-on it is not.
iray hybrid50
Leon S. Hoplopfheil showing us the reality of fighting nightmares in the freezer.
Most times when I’ve used a hybrid system its been in cases where only one eye gives you the information you’re trying to look for. Such as trying to find a spotter’s laser with the PVS-14 or rely on thermal when the environment is too light or dark (Even residual heat on rocks and vegetation from a hot day can make spotting difficult in the first few hours of night). The only time I’ve had the images truly ‘culminate’ was when thermal was set to black-hot during a star-light night with average outdoor temperatures. Thus the images were similar enough that each eye could blend the two, but overall, I had the most value with either seeing important information that the other couldn’t
thats pretty much how I have mine set up. I turned the brightness of the Breach down and set it to outdoor alert mode. It tends to blend into the background of my vision unless something color pops up. Once I got the settings tuned it worked great. My biggest complaint is the FOV. You can get tunnel vision pretty bad
I just had a conversation about this with a fiend of mine! We've been requested to 'remove' a coyote problem on a horse farm.
This video is def going to him.
Thanks Hop!!
I have no experience with NVG out side of a old GEN 1 Soviet one.
But I did DIY a thermal for my helmet because I got a banging deal on a "Flir Photon 320" with a 19mm/36° fov lens. And OH BOI
Navigating with a thermal takes A LOT of practice. Also took a lot of reprints on my 3D printer to get a mount aligned with what my actual eye sees. And anything like low hanging thorns will mess you up !
What I have found very nice though is "fire and ice" this is very similar to the alert settings. It makes the coldest points blue and the hottest red.
My brain will use its free (in my case right/dominant eye) to navigate up close. And as soon as something red comes into frame my brain will overlap this and draw my focus to it.
And the horizon and water will usually come up in blue which is also very useful.
Modes like the rainbow one shown in the picture are fun, and give a lot more information. But I dont like it for navigating because my brain cant make too much sense of it.
It will how ever let you spot small animals like rabbits at much grater distance and you will be able to tell if a car has left a certain spot much more easily. Its just easier to differentiate between colors then it is between gray levels.
In terms of focus. I like to set mine at about 200meters. I feel like this is a good range for 320res with 36° fov and still keeps it usable at close range.
After a great deal of research I finally opted to go with the iRay RH25. By the time I got tired of scouring product details it seemed the most versatile though it does seem larger than the model you reviewed. Ultimately I just lost patience and accepted that no matter what decision I made there would be something better coming out in 6 months or something comparable that was much cheaper.
Gross. There's a reason you see so many for sale on the secondary.
@@salteabutwhy2939 it's better than the last few options they provided for us at work but okay. Which did you purchase instead?
Or do you not have any? You aren't one of those guys who talks shit about things he doesn't have experience with are you?
@@salteabutwhy2939lol get rekt
Skeet IR covers all bases. It’s also the only thermal with the edge detect mode, that way when you use it with a PVS14 on a bridge you collimate 2 completely images into one with next to no difficulty compared too common Breach bridging with PVS14. The SkeetIR also can be used as a COTI with an adapter. Just like a PAS29. It can be dedicated weapon mounted and clip on in front of day optic. The mount is also a FTS. The pixel on target thermal is essentially the newest evolution of the skeet ir.
The older L model has its issues, mostly due to the limits 320x can get you. I haven't used edge-detect for more than a few seconds in conjunction with a PVS14 because there is a loss of information when an otherwise high-contrast heat signature becomes outlined similar to the surrounding environment, but I'm willing to give it a test compared to white-hot and black-hot to see if it aids in culmination.
SkeetIRx Master Race! I completely agree the quality and performance crushes mostly everything else however it’s more expensive than the Breach and the iRay offerings. Buy once cry once i suppose.
I went through Barrel and Hatchet's 2 day night vision class earlier this year with a PVS-14/Breach combo. Ran it the whole time for two days. Worked fine for me. Goblin Tactical has some good information on the setup.
>>Me pretending to take notes while buying cheapest thermal camera only.
Its a legit thermal. 👌
Havent played with the iray equivalent but with the price difference difference I'm good with the AGM
? Have you used the Jerry YM before?
Iray is better but only for it's mounting system and recoil ratio. For additional 250$ (or something like that) you can get additional dovetail adapter (they also sometimes sell it as a bundle) that allows you to switch between helmet, clipon and solo scope mode without having to unscrew anything or changing parts. This adapter also gives it perfect return to zero, since it stays on the rail.
It baffled me that AGM didn't do the same.
Ive had the StingIR since release its been great. Since the update clip-on setting its even better. I mainly run it bridged with a PVS-14, and yes I can look through both at the same time with no problems. I know it doesnt work for everyone though my brother is one that just cant get it to work. He says he can only see the thermal when bridged. I see a circle of NV with a square of thermal. I have found that I have to have the NV over my dominant eye or it doesnt work, and my brain just keeps swapping the images.
I had both the 384 & 640 i sold the 640 to get a dedicated clip-on, but still haven't replaced it yet. Another reason I sold my 640 is after the update I still couldnt get the screen to collimate it was so off it ran out of adjustment. Also before the update I would leave the reticle on while using as a clip-on and just ignore my scope crosshairs so i didnt have to rezero my scope all the time. I agree the 640 is good to roughly 6x, but the 384 is only good to around 3x.
How does the 384 compare to 640 helmet mounted
@@Journey_of_Abundance helmet mounted or hand held (without zooming) not much of a difference honestly, but as a clip-on or digital zooming the 640 shines. The 384 is still usable as a clip-on til around 3x, and the 640 drops off around 6x.
Thanks for the honest break-down, Hop. 👍👍
Coyote hunting at night taught me so much about the capabilities and usefulness of all this stuff.
Really like that you're branching out to thermal. I've debated on it for awhile, and debating between an iRay RH25 or MH25 for awhile now. Cheers hop.
I was debating the same. Ended up going with the RH due to it's versatility. Damn thing costs a pretty penny but it was pretty awesome going from a low res Breach to a 640!
This channel is so pitted. Shreds the gnar so hard.
I wish I could understand a word of this
Technically, you are always just one 5.56 away from being able to drive with thermal…
What
@@user-ql8uf9xi3x the joke is you shoot out your windshield, and can drive around without the glass blocking your view, I suppose.
Love my 640. It’s my favorite spotting tool. Great video. Thank you
Bro the whiskers on your cat are crazy
He's a wise old sage
As someone who never thought I’d have a NV setup, now all I want is thermal😂 have been since I got my NV setup a little over a year ago. I’d really like to have both personally
I got a cheap phone plug in one. It's cool as heck and I want one of these now.
I dunno. For all its faults, the FLIR breach has a huge field of view. I like that about it.
Have you compared it to stingr 640?
I have two flir breaches and other thermal cameras by flir. You are correct about the beach, being more mature when flir first hit the scene, it was for camera used in electrical work I had the opportunity of going through a thermography class with my company who purchased a Camera from them. It cost $100k back in 2005 their teacher was flown out to VA to teach the course and that to the the cost automatic gain breach is everything. Shift the screen i can get a very precise image overlay. Virginia the breach out works my expensive night vision target animals are spot it first with the breach. Then Target with the night vision. This is the way we were taught to do it..
This is stupid. But I have to ask...
Have you tried to set up the breaches as binos ?
👀
@@ianspy1 yes sir i have. The results were two breaches gives a wider thermal view. But the cost is. No way to aim a weapon or drive car. Riding a horses motorcycle or One-Wheel work just fine. On days that the weather is go kA no rain. PVS 14 and breach are rocksolid. For instance. Night vision sees at night, but the edge of the wood line and in to the woods or looking into a open garage door night vision cannot see into these areas. You would have to illuminate the area with an IR flashlight. This flashlight would give away your position to anyone else wearing night vision the minute you hit the light not with the breach you see into these areas without ever illuminating anything, but the target or animal that you wish to take out.
@@nastyone9556 thx for the reply ! Very interesting :D Do you get more depth perception when using them as binos ? (just to clarify, I dont want to do this. But I am interested)
A few fun findings I had with thermal:
if you spit on the ground, digitally zoom in and set AGC manually/fixed. This can REALLY help getting a good setting on your thermal for detecting body heat :D
If your using it on automatic you can tilt your head up and down bringing in more and less of the horizon, there for changing the way colors are set on the fly and detecting different things :D
Same goes for bringing your hand into the view of the thermal. On automatic you can learn to bring in different heat and use different angles to control how the colors are being set.
And, because I was curious. The best "weapon" with a thermal is pepperspray xD I tested this with a inert one, and it really is like a laser when you have a thermal on. Just one solid glowing stream.
Probably works with water guns too, if you want to have some fun. I recommend to play with that ^^
I also plan to get a "iris" for when I soilder stuff. As a really hot heat source will bloom a lot when it takes up not enough of the sensors pixels :)
I have not tried that and nor have I thought about that.😮 But for field of death, I zoom in level one that is the first zoom when you press and hold the button that seems to work perfect with my night, vision and vision..
I can’t wait for the Holosun thermal/ red dot to become available for the public, you could have your nv setup with the red dot as well as thermal for scanning purposes at night.
I've never ND'd my white light. I also don't night shoot. Who's a liar now, Hop??!
Needs a swing-away mount similar to a magnifyer to get it out of the way when not needed.
Honestly, clip on in front of nice MPVO+helmet NVG+Illuminator/Laser on rifle seems like a great way to carry a ton of extra weight and do everything badly with one rifle.
It's always fun to hear the phrase pvs-14 and affordable in the same sentence. I to appreciate good sarcasm.
I run a hyrbid thermal with an iray monocular (bridged to a pvs 14) it works great but hella trippy and the images never mesh. You just gotta live with 3d glasses effect and only paying attention to the eye that sees more. Having a thermal on your head lets you spot things you would never have bothered to scan for with a poclet monocular. Its just jarring to get used to, helps to be able to flip one eye (pvs or thermal) up at a time depending on the task.
The only time id recomend dual tubes over off eye thermal is if you really cared about stargazing. Also dont buy a thermal unless you have a pvs14 or similar already. You cant walk drive or navigate properly without it.
If you've played skyrim, nv is like night eye and thermal is the detect life spell.
Flir breach does have a focus knob, some higher end thermals like Pulsar are in a whole other league.
9:32 to 9:44 looking at Socko the kitty cat then looking at a Kitty Kat, I see what you're doing Hop
I feel like neither thermal nor nightvision gives you enough information to initiate engagement on anything other than animals. Especially in a minute man type roll. I've heard the whole "Well, if someone is approaching your land or position and you can distinguish a weapon, then there a threat." Well, all my friends have weapons, lol, comms are down could be trying to link up. Also, not everyone with a rifle has to be a threat. Nightvison ops were a nightmare in the Army. War games were worse, seeing IR's going off everywhere, seeing their NODs glow, dudes whitelighting other dudes with nods down. Patrolling in the woods, tripping over everything. I'm lost man, not sure where to dump all the money needed to gain some nighttime advantages. Maybe do us a video, (or maybe you have) on the best options/combos for a "minute man" or end of days type roll. I don't have enough experience nor the money to weigh all options. I'm thinking of a real good quality monocule thermal tethered to your vest and a quality clip on thermal for a 1-6lpvo, or a 1-6 in a scalarworks qd mount and a thermal scope in a adm mount you swap back and forth at night and morning. I feel like you'll be more "stealthy", detection odds are higher, you'll have 3 options that can work without one another if something goes down or breaks, high candela white light, monocule, and clip on. You won't have to have a helmet and mount, less shit to break, no IR laser, nods or IR light that could get you killed, die or lose zero, that's also adding weight. And hell the damn cost, really. I'll spend 10k, but damn do I want to get it all right the first time lol. Just can't seem to fully decide what path to start down. Not like you can try this shit out.
Your thoughts kinda back up what I have been thinking about for awhile.
NVDs are only an advantage if one side has them. Once both sides have them, you're basically fighting during the day, but forced to see through toilet paper tubes. This reduced situational awareness puts the advantage securely in the defenders hands. The defender just has to sit there, camouflaged and focused on observation.
Thermals take that advantage and turn it up to 11.
So personally, I think we will eventually reach the point where conducting operations at night will become as obsolete as mass infantry charges into belt fed machineguns.
You're also absolutely correct about "Also, not everyone with a rifle has to be a threat." Even if the government totally collapsed, you can't just shoot anyone that gets too close to your hideout. Word will eventually get out and you'll suddenly find that everyone within a 50 mile radius doesn't trust you and/or wants you dead.
HCC sells an adapter for T1/T2 mounts so you can use other aftermarket mounts instead of the weird one that comes with it - they also sell a dovetail adapter.
Thank you, as always, for taking the time to make a great review. I do have an unpopular opinion to offer though: helmet mount an AGM TM15-384 and call it a day. It's a bit bulky, but gives you the value of thermal in a package much cheaper than even an entry level pvs-14. I agree though about trying to have two different NV units concurrent, one on each eye: surprisingly un-useful.
Having done both a dual band setup with Breach and PVS 14 and a JerryCE2 clip on, they both have advantages. The Breach definitely gives way more information on the environment and is more likely to allow you to detect objects that the Jerry C's algorithm filters out and just doesn't display. The "Full Thermal" mode on the Jerry C just can't offer the same detection or passive navigation ability, because its gain and brightness are linked. That means in order to see any detail, you have to have the unit's brightness cranked up so high it's like shining a flashlight into your PVS-14- not good.
"You will end up owning more than one thermal device", rich and out-of-touch celebrity claims.
Notice the cat reflecting that Hop has relaxed energy
One advantage that the stinger has over the breach is that you can use an external power source ie; rechargeable batteries that gives you more run time, 6-10 hrs compared to 4 hrs when only using a 123 battery. You’ll save money on batteries. The Breach has a battery adapter, that allows you to use two batteries but the unit will start heating up. It made me nervous so I stop using it. The FLIR Breach is 60hz and the AGM Stinger is 50hz. The stinger will sometimes have a lag when scanning an area which can cause a distraction. The Breach doesn’t have this problem.
The battery housing extender requires the use of a "16650 battery" , use of 2 CR123 batteries will cause overheating .... there is a USB-C external battery pack 5V / 10,000 mAh that can be used w/ the Breach, it extends operating to 8hrs.
I remember my flir on my M1A2. I was so let down when I looked through my friends Reap and was let down lol remembering my capabilities in my tank.
Just pretend you're in a 1991 Abrams. Where you can't tell an Abrams from a t-55. :P
Only guy I see that uses his entire finger on the trigger. Yet he still his hits targets no problem.
Informative. Could you get a Armasight sidekick for review?
Thermal seems far more valuable than night vision, but i do really hope prices can come down
Great episode of the Heat Life of Zach and COTI.
I wish you would do a direct comparison of the Sidekick 640 to the Sting IR. The Breach was an AGM product originally and the sidekick is basically the 640 resolution upgrade to the breach line.
I’ll keep my eye on those points when looking for thermals, good to know some of the points on resolution and especially on how a lot of the comments about running both a NV and thermal is just talk. Though speaking of running NV equipment, I’ve been building out a shorter rifle for NV use and came upon the Boss XE and I want to know your take on it. I’ve heard the illuminator is dim but also that it’s extraordinarily light weight. But for the cost is it worth it? What’s your take Hop?
Hop. Add a flip mount to the thermal. You can run your red dot on top and roll over to use the thermal
7:20
If only you had some sort of head mounted shade apparel so you wouldn't need to use your hand to block the sun...
I think in a group, one with thermal is enough. Detection isn't going to improve a great deal with more eyes, while identification using NV and naked eyes improves with more observers.
Thumbnails don’t get too much creepier than this one 😂
So it sounds like a PVS-31 with a handheld monocular with a 2x or 4x magnification that you can clip onto a rifle would be a sweet setup.
if you were sent to hell, hops voice is what you would hear for eternity
I'm a big fan of the I-Ray RH-25. Bit of a hefty entry cost, but I believe it is well worth it. It can be paired with a PVS-14 pretty well with the Panobridge MK3 mount, and I was able to take a dremel to the pictail adapter it comes with so that it would fit in a Wilcox Flip To Side dovetail mount to work in conjunction with my ATAC-R. It's pretty fun.
how long have you ran it at one time? notice any fatigue?
@@JessersadlerI've ran it from a fresh battery to fully drained throughout the night and it's definitely not gonna be as easy on the eyes as a fusion setup, but paired with the PVS-14 I do enjoy it for the amount of versatility it has. I think it's best as a standalone unit, or paired with lower power magnification. Anything past 4x will require a larger unit. But for helmet mounting it is pretty awesome. I recommend the noisefighters pano bridge mount for a "bino" feel.
@@Jessersadler The mode and brightness settings will be your friend for longer lengths of use at once. I find the rainbow multicolor mode pretty hard on the eyes after a bit, it's just a lot of orange at once. But the white/ black/ red hot is great.
good video and the last video of the cat not judging you was worth the wait.
Great video Hop! I like your PoU for a helmet mounted thermal monocular!
Very similar to the Pfalcon640/RH25. If they clamp down on the pfalcon imports and make everyone pay RH25 pricing again I'd strongly consider recommending this instead. But right now the pfalcon is king at 3750.
Where are you finding it for $3750?
@@mikef5694 there's a guy on the night vision subreddit who's importing them. It'll be in the last few days of posts.
@mikef5694 best prices at cold harbour supply. They ship to US, have a warranty and a facility in the US so you don't have to worry about ITAR. I got my C5 from there and have been very happy.
I heard the rico rh25 is pretty good for a Chinese unit, shame for the 5k pricetag.
Pfalcon640 for $4k tho. Better yet, get the chinese ECOTI for $3,300 so you do can overlay thermal on your PVS14
Good video. The breach doesn't have settings for a clip on, but is decent for scanning as a hand held.
Can't see through glass.. proceeds to roll down window.. allllllrighty then..
Beautiful cat!
He's rude and dumb but he's my friend.
Oh no, the bridged NVG with breach is a real thing. Try this: set it up as close to collimated as possible for 15-30 minutes without taking off the optic, and then get back to us. even with out a perfect alignment, the white hot setting still allows for an operator to highlight possible threats in one eye.
Lol. Multiple thermal devices. You called it.
im here for the kitty cats in the videos
Anyone else have a few seconds where those deer looked like some evil shit crabwalking towards the camera?
I love my RH25. I can see the twigs on a branch
an excellent very interesting video and devices.Have a good one Hop.
Tarburz sent me here.
My first experience with a thermal site was a tank thermal site (TTS )in a M60A3 Patton tank. Boy what a spoiler.
Thermal is an expensive rabbit hole. The AGM Rattler is a good entry level. Be prepared to spend some cash.
I have the covert optics hs1 and it is small and pleifle mounts with a qd scope ring and had adjustable changeable redicle and works pretty good for the updated lower prices.
Tree fiddy right now,6 months ago you couldn't find em for under a stack.
Sepia color
Palette on FLIR breach is amazing and better than black or white hot in all situations
I really want one of the dual thermal analog monocular devices really bad
They are great for finding drones and aircraft.
Maybe bridged would work if I squint just right, stick out my tongue, and hop on one foot😓
Thanks for always telling it how it is Hop
🇺🇲
It's been on my want list for quite a bit now
Cat finder 3000
ya... bridged thermal and Night vision in my experience really doesn't work for me either. I've noticed even with 1x thermals, it appears that the sensor being further in front of the users eye makes it basically impossible to get a similar image to a PVS14 because all the objects appear slightly larger. It's not a huge difference but it's enough to mess with you, it reminds me of shooting both eyes open through an LPVO at 1x, the images are just different enough that it can cause issues.
As the 2nd out of the 3 total people in the world who has managed to get bridged thermal (MH25) and PVS14 to work reasonably well (enough for long hikes spotting wildlife frequently), Hop is spot on about it really helps if the image from the thermal and I2 are more similar. For me this means White Phos PVS14 and Black Hot mode on MH25, and as others have mentioned as well, getting the eye pieces to be a similar distance from your eye is also helpful to get the 2 images to fuse properly. This often requires messing around with mounts and bridges to get right.
@@yzhou05 Have you noticed a difference if the thermal is on you dominant eye vs non dominant eye?
@@yzhou05 I seem to be one of the few that can get it to work as well. Though my brain tends to default to whatever image is brighter/more visible. So if it's extremely dark outside then it mostly defaults to the thermal on my non-dominant eye. But the nice part is that if my eyes are defaulting to the white phos pvs14, the second my non-dominant eye picks up movement in the thermal then my brain jumps right over. It's really been extremely effective for me while coyote hunting. Also using an MH25 as well.
@@cncmillman Yes I find it works better if I put the PVS14 over my dominant eye and thermal over non-dominant eye. As Zach mentions the brighter image tends to override “in the brain”, but also the image over the dominant eye also has greater tendency to be… dominant. I much prefer having the analog being the “main” image my brain sees, so I also turn down the MH25 to the lowest brightness unless it’s a pretty bright environment. Since the thermal is mainly for detection I find it easy to just “wink” close my dominant eye if needed if I want to see thermal only for a few seconds and scan.
Thanks!
That cat has seen some sh!t.
The random vid of your cat in it's lair made me laugh.
I have the infiray Rh25 it is amazing! You can use it hand held on your helmet and as a clip on. Not good for navigation I use IR. I’m consistently hitting 6 inch gongs at 300 yds with the clip on.
That is one nice cat
Point of clipping digital device in front of other optics really escaping me.
When you put it in front of an optic with magnification you are using your optical magnification to look at the digital screen. When you use the thermals magnification you are using digital magnification which degrades the digital image each time you use it with diminishing returns.
@@Duncan_Idaho_actual Yes, you are using your optical magnification to look at the digital screen. Why would you do so? That will not bring in any new details. Make pixels bigger then.
Also if it’s not a dedicated thermal it dosent have and retinal in it so you keep your familiar optic retinal well gaining thermal abilities. People that like clip ones like the versatility because you don’t need it on all the time verses a dedicated thermal gun. That’s my belief anyways people may vary.
Clip on or strap on, that is the question.
Go Night Vision Gen 3 before going thermal, thermal is worth having after you've got Night Vision. I teetered back and forth before I bought either and finally bought Thermal first, then I wished I had bought Night Vision first. I bought a Thermal Scope which could be used for a monocular thinking it was the way to go then I found Thermal didn't see through glass windows so it limited me, it was also crazy to walk with it. It's great for locating anything that's alive with a heat signature in the woods as long as the woods aren't too dense. It is ideal to have both NV and thermal but trust me go NV first.
Unless you're going places you shouldn't for a living, a good Gen 2 is the sweet spot for cost/benefit IMHO.
Though if all you are concerned about is urban or homestead security, Gen 1 units can be surprisingly capable when provided with adequate illumination. What is the BG with Gen 3 gonna do? Start shooting out all the solar walkway lights you're using as illuminatiors? No, they're gonna bugger off somewhere else that's easier.
@@Crosshair84 Gen 3 is gonna give you better and further sight in your rural area dark spots or the woods and fields without IR illumination which will make you visible to others with night vision or someone that knows to watch for the red light of the stronger IR illumination flashlight you use.
I got the 384 cored unit and its really nice. I was thinking about setting it to the orange setting and using an amber wilcox filter on my pvs14 to make the colors more similar so it could possibly br easier to colimate
You alluded to options you feel are better for static observation. What do you like?
*laughs in MSRP*
>spending 2-3k on a nice thermal (cringe and gross)
>spending 2-3k on a nice drone with a thermal camera (none can hide)
What thermal drones are you seeing for 2-3k? Unless I’m mistaken I didn’t see really any for less than 4-5k
Dji with the thermal sensor used on ebay
Ive used a Flir Breach and NVG bridged sense march of last year a lot. Ya your brain basically just notices the thermal, than you flip out of the way. So easy to spot people hiding in the brush with thermals. Also useful half the year during day time to spot people hiding in brush.
Ya its not as good as using a PAS-13 or TRIGR which have significantly better sensors. But those are a pain to lug around.
How does thermal have different ways to see heat?
*nox 18 has entered the chat*
I got StingIR 640 last spring. It is sad that you can't update the firmware on your own, since I am in Europa it would be a pain to get it to the states for an update... Also like you said I miss the option to easily record pictures and videos. However unlike you I had very good luck running it combined with a night vision. Because of Europe again, I am running a Sionyx Opsin, so both devices have an LCD screen, this might have helped.
Thanks for the review and greetings from Switzerland
Why hasn't anybody just cooled individual thermal devices yet? There's so much body surface area to clip heat density onto. If the thing keeping individual devices from working like the vehicle devices is dissipation that-is.
Because the power requirements to do that are obscene.