Build a load of steel plates for a flat car
Вставка
- Опубліковано 17 вер 2017
- Last week, I built a lumber load for one of my recently added Central Valley flat cars. This week, I build a very different load for the other car. Follow along as I add a stack of very heavy plate steel to a 70-ton car.
- Розваги
Nice job. Looks really good.
Very cool. Looks great. Thanks for sharing
I rather quite enjoy your videos ,some real nice gems of information to be had....very nice work !
FYI, As a welding inspector during my career, I can tell you that I worked at many steel fabrication shops, and when they receive a shipment of steel plates, the plates are reasonably new and have not had enough time to rust, thus, the colors are generally a blueish-gray color. Even the plates they have had stacked in the yard for some time do not get a build-up of rust as much as you have depicted. No criticism here, just trying to enlighten you to what really happens to steel plates used for fabrication. I think you do great work. Have been following you for some time now. Thanks
Mostly, but not alwase. I have worked a BIW for a long time, depending on what the steel is sometimes it rust up pretty heavy before use, other steel gets a coat of "weldable" primer.
Once again...Great job..you make it look so real...
You did an awesome job on the rust!
It looks very realistic and it is hard to make it look real!
I think it looks great but maybe you could make some that have more of a blueish gray tint to them as well!
I've seen new steel look rusty as well sitting in a company's yard that sells steel!
Like the loads, yes I watched the wood loads too and both look great....thanks for sharing....Jack
Wow another great video well demonstrated best wishes Ken
That looks spot on perfect, great tutorial, I look forward to your new videos
Thank you
Rick B aka Plastic butcher
Those loads look great Peter! I just got power back on (thanks to hurricane Irma) after 9 days without, what an ordeal. Just now catching up on your last 4 vids. Folks here and property are good though. Thanks for the great tutorial! Love the chains. Cheers, Dan
Nice work overall. I do agree with the comment by Joe
Saurina that the load is too rusty. All six prototype photos that I have seen of
basic flat cars show the load secured by steel bands rather than chains,
though.
You did a good job on that
very good on all of your loads.
Peter, the rust looks fantastic, if the plate was headed to a scrap yard. New plate would only be rusted on the sheared edges. Mill scale will protect the steel for weeks,maybe months, depending on what part of the country it is in, besides no customer would buy plate that is really rusted. I've learned a lot from your videos, and I'm not nit picking, I've work in the welding and fabrication trades a long time. But the rust is very good, hard to replicate rust that well. Cheers
Thank-you for the insight. The problem is that color photos aren't available for the period I'm modelling, so the easiest way around it is copy what I've seen other do. I guess I goofed this time. What you say about the mill scale protecting the plate for a long time; is that just in the modern era, or would that apply equally in the early 40's? Hasn't the steel-making process evolved quite a lot since then?
Honestly it depends on the grade of steel being used. What you weathered it down to looks like a 50w or 80w (the scale looks very dull brown/reddish). Really that stuff is perfectly fine and usable, so depending on the grade that's acceptable and expected. Nothing goes through manufacturing without being cleaned up anyways. A36 rusted and transported like that, sure, it's trash probably. I'd be kinda irked to receive something that showed up without a tarp like that, but whatever. Wouldn't be the first time I had to get out a push broom and actually sweep off an 8x12 sheet before sending it into the laser.
true if it's directly from the mill. Back in my heavy fab days we used to get stuff that had sat in the yard long enough for it to get pretty rusty. sure was a pita to deal with but the bean counters always went for a deal if they could get one.
Another super process idea, given I'm planning a mill on my layout this will come in handy!! hnx..
Looks good to me, but most of the steel plate that I haul, is usually tarped! Lol. Roy
For the plate steel car out of steel mill in GARY Indians they use steel banes they come out of the pocket on the side of car u shape then up and then bend across the steel, do this on both sides then they have bar stock threaded on both ends with nuts two on both sides . I honestly like you channel keep up the good work I worked on the Milwaukee R.R.as a Fireman Stared in 1968 total 46 yrs did service Navy Vietnam Cuba ran trains from Louisville Kentucky to TerreHaute In to Chicago then Soo got us rand Different routs then to Chicago Bennsville , Then sold the Southern Eastern that was our Divison , Then Ran trains from Elkhart to Winsor Cannda and Elkhart to Bennsville that was O foregot Bedford to Semore In. If you could run a train on our The southern end latte to Louisville Ky you could run any where . Keep the good work coming.
I Like making my own steel loads as well Peter , Its Always interesting to see how other's make theirs & yours are Awesome Thx for sharing.....Cheers-Rich.....
Have you ever thought of doing a video to show others how you make yours?
How can i possibly top your loads Peter yours loads look awesome .👍👍
That's no reason not to share your methods. Even experts can pick up some good ideas from beginners now and again.
sounds good Peter i will add this in the Que of future uploads
looks great thanks for sharing
very realistic!
Most steel is not shipped rusty as it is usually shiped as needed from the supplier,where it is stored out of the weather
Nice!
terrific job and show how. this project i can see being helpful and useful to most modelers. but how did you come up with the scale weight ?
The "specific gravity" of steel varies from about 7.8 to 8.1, depending on the grade of metal and the exact alloy used. That number defines the number of metric tonnes per cubic meter. From this, I simply determined the weight in pounds per cubic inch and multiplied by the cross-sectional area of the styrene strips I used to come up with the weight of each linear foot of steel. I no longer have my calculations because once I got to the "four linear feet per ton" stage, anything that went before was no longer required.
As I don't really care exactly what grade of steel the load represents, I started with a number in the middle of the range and then rounded off the results to make things simple. Since visitors don't habitually carry a micrometer in their pockets (and most probably wouldn't feel inclined to do the calculations anyway), this is one place where close is good enough.
Nice job, done professionally, love it. Where did you get that all-metric ruler? I'm fed up with the Imperial system on rulers! But, the Imperial system of measurement has served us well, but nearly the whole world now uses Metric. I like the inch as it goes back to ancient times (pyramid inch and British inch are nearly identical) and the yard has been derived from a very exotic past. Napoleon swept all that away. Ok, so now I'm looking for a nice all-metric stainless ruler - any ideas, anyone?
I've had that ruler for decades - long before I arrived in the US.
I use millimeters for most things. In my days as a building contractor, I found it very annoying having to calculate things in fractions of an inch. With the metric system, most things can be done using whole numbers only.
Except that the US doesn't use actually use Imperial -- American customary fluid ounces are slighly larger than Imperial, American pints are 16floz instead of 20. American hundredweight are 100lbs, which is far too logical -- an Imperial hundredweight is 112lbs (whuuuut?!?) -- and means that American tons are only about 90% of an Imperial ton.
Anyway, should be easy for the US to go fully metric as switching a US pint of beer for a half-litre means you get more beer. Will never happen in the UK, as an Imperial pint is nearly 15% more than a half-litre. 😉
Hi, What size is the chain? If you stack the plates why not glue them together then paint them? Looks good and I can remember them being hauled into the shipyard, wish I had paid more attention when I was a young lad.
Can you show in a bit more detail how you attached the chain to the flatbed ? Thanks
I don't know what size the chain is - bought it on e-bay many years ago. It's not glued to the car deck. Instead, the chains hang down through the stake pockets and lock the load in place. Painting the pieces first gave me more opportunities to choose the pieces that looked best for those that would be most visible.
@@mpeterll I am now watching your “A frame” video, really well done.
I am building a waterline model of a Clyde Puffer for my layout and searched for a chain at those cheap jewelry stores, not sure if I have the correct size.
FYI in the shipyards those plates would be stored on fabricated steel frames. 👍
The general practice in the shipyards was to hook the chain into the eye bolt
@@mpeterll nice retaining wall in the background and the plates, chains etc look great
@@mpeterll love those factory buildings, did you scratch build them or a kit?
How would you make the rolls of steel held down by chain? I've seen on many flat beds. Thank you posting its very interesting and I'll give it a lash
I've not tried to make any, but if I did, I think I would probably start by wrapping a long strip of paper or thin styrene around a rod until the desired overall diameter was reached. If I wanted a lot of them, I think I would just make one of each size I wanted and then cast them in a two-piece mold. The wooden cradles they sit in could be made easily enough out of basswood, and I already have some very fine chain. I know that Micro-Mark also sells the chain.
mpeterll when I was asking you he question I hadn't even thought of a way to make it. Thanks for the input. Have a happy New Year
Hmmm. Looks like about 2mm thick plastic. At 1:87 scale, that's nearly 180mm thick in real life. Is that realistic?
No, I used 0.020 styrene stacked in groups of three. Look closely and you can see that I've deliberately stacked them slightly unevenly to make the individual sheets visible. I talked about the scaling in the video.
@@mpeterll OK, thanx for that, great reply (y)
Unless you know how it was made, you wouldn't tell the rusty texture was edited later on.
Nice Trick.
I have no idea what you mean by that.
Your videos are very good, but you seem to do all the details off camera , so I don’t see how you do it