How to Make a Cross-Cut Sled
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
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Important Note -- I messed up! I got the fence adjustment mixed up. In the video, I state that to correct the error measured by the 5-cut method, I would need to push the left side of the fence BACK towards me. That's exactly the opposite of what I needed to do. Instead, the fence needs to go forward on the left side. Because the feeler gauge method of adjustment only works by pulling one side of the fence back toward the user, you can effectively push the left side forward by pulling the right side back. So to sum up, instead of making the adjustment by pulling the fence back on the left side, I should have pulled the fence back on the right side.
Then
One of the first fixtures I ever made for my shop was a cross-cut sled. Heavily-influenced by David Marks, I modeled it after his design. The sled opened up a whole world of possibilities for not only cross-cutting, but joinery as well. I didn't have a reliable compound miter saw at the time so this versatile fixture really helped me get the most out of my limited tool set. Here's a pic from the old days!
Now
Now with a full complement of tools, I am finding myself longing for some of the simple solutions I used in the past. And after spending some time at the William Ng School using his cross-cut sleds for various operations, I knew it was time to get my butt in gear and make myself a new cross-cut sled. You'll notice that my sled doesn't have any bells and whistles like built-in stops or hold downs, but you can certainly add those if you feel they are appropriate.
Hip To Be Square!
To square the fence, I use the "5-cut squaring method", which you can see demonstrated in the video and also in this little Flash presentation. Its an incredible method for adjusting a fence down to the nearest thousandth. The final adjustments are made using feeler gauges and a method I learned directly from William Ng himself.
A cross-cut sled can be any size you want. Just keep in mind the bigger it is, the harder it is to handle. So for me, the ideal size was approximately the dimensions of my tablesaw top.
Plywood base: 34″ Wide x 30 " Deep (1/2″ Baltic Birch Ply)
Fences: 4 1/4″ Wide x 30″ Long
Runners: 30″ Long x 3/4″ Wide x 3/8″ Thick
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Please read the note in the description that explains an error I made in the video.
This is a great video and it will help me in my work. I have read your comment above explaining the mistake you made in the discussion. I am a little confused though. First, in your explanation I am not sure what is right and what is left. Second, I am not sure exactly what the mistake/error was. You made a correction using the feeler gauge and then measured the error in the fence. You calculate a 0.001" error! Was that right? The correction was to "push" that end back was that the "right end" or the "left end" ? Did you actually improve the fence placement in the video or not. Sorry I am confused here. I get your point that using the feeler gauge is one directional but I am not sure where your original discussion went wrong.
It's really easy to get confused there. That's why William has a plus and minus in his formula. Easy fix, though. :-) Thanks for this. You added a couple of touches I hadn't thought about. Thumbs up to crush a troll.
@@mikecurtin9831 I'm still confused too. If the back end of the test piece was wider than the front, that means that the left side of the fence would need to go forward. But Marc actually moved that side BACK and yet ended up with a more accurate cut. That's what I don't understand-because adjusting the fence in the wrong direction should have produced more error. So why wasn't that the result???
@@merchantbankers You are correct. He didn't show his proper correction in the video. Also, when you're using the feeler gauge, the further you can get it away from the saw blade (the longer the baseline), the more accurate it will be. The best explanation of the 5-cut method, and funny, to boot, is by William Ng himself. Look on UA-cam for the 5-cut method by William Ng. Using this method, you can get better than most machinist's accuracy quickly and easily.
After listening to old episodes of wood talk, the only error I see is all that stubble.
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
A 9 year old video and it's still the best crosscut sled video that I found, thank you!! Building one tonight!
Thanks Marc, I've been referring back to this video with every saw I build a sled for. This comment is 10 years later.... Just evidence of a great video! I first saw it maybe 7 years ago. Thanks again brother!
Hi , it sounds like you’re an experienced sled-maker that might be able to help a beginner like myself 😬. Instead of cutting the wood from underneath, the blade raises the board (to cut the kerf of the blade in the middle). I tried to add some weight, even clamping the board to the table saw and nothing worked. I tried to go slow but still didn’t work. Am I doing something wrong or do I need to change the blade the table saw came with? I’m using the Dewalt DW7485, so I’m assuming it’s powerful enough? Please help 😂
This video is 9 years old but to me yet the best tutorial on the web. GREAT !
I really enjoy watching you at work. I am a retired college professor and have used woodworking to relax for many years. You have taught me many new methods to utilize in my woodworking. Thank you for being a good teacher.
John
This is by far the BEST tutorial Ive found on making a simple tablesaw crosscut sled! Especially the 5 cut method simplified.....Thank you soo much!
yep hes the best....
First time the 5 cut method was explained to me AND stuck. Great talk through.
Great explanation of the 5 cut method! I never wanted to use it because it seemed too complicated. Easy peasy now!
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Ted's is the biggest scam I've ever encountered, bar none. Don't.
I realize this video is 8 years old but you are such a fantastic teacher, I really appreciate William Ng's videos and he is such a genius woodworker but I had issues following his video when he was explaining his 5 cut method and that is probably just because of my limited brain capacity, the way you explained it really made sense to me, thank you yet again sir for teaching me something.
Just made a sled using his teaching. This guy is a great communicator/teacher. Not only can he teach but he can produce fantastic furniture pieces!
HI: I been looking at various videos to learn how to make this cross-cut shed, and by far you have the best instruction. Your detail, clarity and verbal speed is perfect. Thank you so much for taking the time for a well done professional training video. I will be looking forward in seen more videos.
i noticed another benefit of the cutouts on the fences - they aid in keeping your hands clear of the blade. a very worthwhile feature!
Followed your method for building a sled. Tried two other ways previously and struggled. Anyhow, first attempt I got the fence within 41 thou (4 times the error) and dialed it out with a 10 thou feeler gauge. Great tip! Now there's no measurable difference over a 14" 5 way cut.
Hey Mark, 6 years later my crosscut sled is still going strong making perfect 90 degree cuts! Thank you!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. You have a well balanced personality which works wonderfully as a teacher. Not too fast, not too slow, not boring, not jumping all over the place. Well thought out. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
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For me, this is the BEST, most thoroughly explained, video tutorial on this subject!!
Gotta love the 5 cut squaring method. That could be a lesson video all in its self. I can honestly say I became a better and more accurate wood worker the second I was shown that trick.
The video helped immensely! I spaced my rails by laying 4 strips of paper across the channel and pressing the rail into the track. I then cut off the strips of paper so they would not affect the plywood resting on the surface of the table saw. This guaranteed that after attaching the rails that I had space equal to the thickness of a piece of paper on the sides and bottom. The rails slide smoothly.
you are so perfect for tv is not even funny, your explanations are easy and clear, you are very knowledgeable, your voice is perfect and you seem to love teaching, you need your own tv show, let me make some calls for you, you are one of my favorites
great vid.. I did all the steps and worked great, I use it for shelves for cabinets, dovetail parts. so they got to be really squere.. but one thing I did find out, is that the wood runners expand with cold temperatures..I'm from oregon. and it gets cold. my sled got stuck and I had to sand the little wood runners..I did not wanted to remove them.but I realized the solution is using some aluminum runners that are sold in woodcrafters. they fit perfectly because they are ment. to be use for feather boards ands and jigs. I have a porter cable contractor table saw.. I just wanted to share this it might help when it gets cold..
Hi there. How did you fix the aluminium runners? Did you glue it then screw?
screw them upside-down into the plywood..has to be at least 1/2 inch so the screw doesn't go through.
yes what I did. I lined up the board. and I drew a line in the middle of the table saw grooves. and drilled 2 holes up and down insert crews. there's some aluminum runners that you have to insert through the groove.(screws not to tight because the board and runners lock.. you'll find out.) good luck
Kreg makes a jig fixture bar # KMS7303, its aluminum and is made to work in tracks
I think you are a gifted teacher...clear and concise, to the point. Thank you sooooo much!
I used your video to make a small cross cut sled (I do mostly scroll work and use only small pieces of wood). I used the 5-cut method for calibration and after 1 adjustment, the error was zero. Thanks for an extremely clear, concise, and helpful video.
Honestly, this is one of the most informative and we'll explained videos I've seen. Thank you.
My husband is wanting to make one of these sleds. so yours is the one I have printed for him.
I like that Marc takes the time to explain why he is doing something, what materials he's using, etc. There are so many videos that gloss over details, I don't think intentionally, but because experienced woodworkers tend to forget to mention things they consider second nature. It's helpful to use newbie to hear details. I've written down all Marc's steps from this video and it makes constructing this thing a snap (so far).
The five cut method that you demonstrated has been a real eye opener for me. Thank you very muchly.
This wood used in runners is originally from Brazil, here called "Roxinho".
Greetings from Brazil.
I did some research on it. Apparently it's so common there that you guys use it for construction. Much like we use pine here is the USA. Pretty damn cool!
Awesome!
I will be building this very soon.
Great instructions & very nice delivered, very clear & simple.
Thanks so much!
I don't usually comment on videos but I want to say yours is the best and easiest to understand on building things. I am a bit of a greenhorn, in carpentry , but I built the sled using your video and some specs from a book, and your instruction made it so easy to follow. I made a few test cuts and they look perfect. I am now excited to try some projects knowing that my cuts will be square. Thanks for your video and the time you spend making them.
Marc, I have learned more from you than David, Norm, Tommy, and all the rest put together! Your generousity is matched only by your talent to build and teach. Thanks for all you do for the woodworking world.
I'm going to stop my UA-cam search for how to build a sled. This was the second video I watched.This is a great tutorial. Wreggits.
fantastic. 1st time woodworker since high school roughly 60 yrs ago. I can't get enough of these instructional videos. I am presently working on building a shed which is testing me with 30 degree and 60 degree cuts using only a circular saw, table saw and a mitre saw.
Could have used the sled to cut those angles right? I'll be a faithful viewer. regards Alfred rules
Here in Australia, there is a saying, translated from a Work Wear advertisement from a few years ago.
And it is. "You do not have to tell me, I know boats"
Well, I did know boats, and now after watching your video, I now "Know them" even better.
Thanks mate.
Love the 5 cut method. Being and X mechanical designer, I could chase after those last few thousands of inch for hours. Your .00125" per 20" length was remarkable or crazy good as you said!
Actually, I think zardiw was correct in their initial thinking - this video seems to have the adjustment direction backwards - a very key aspect. If my calculations are correct, the left side of his fence must move forward - not backward. This small detail is hugely misleading, and actually sent me down a long and confusing path. A second opinion on this is William NG's video, which is inverse from this video. What also didn't help, is that the wrong was is more intuitive. Feel free to check this, or let me know if I'm missing something. Certainly, this would be worth editing the video if true. Thanks for your helpful videos.
It's also important to read a video's description. :) I recommend doing that before embarking on any build or at the very least, once you confront an issue. And especially on my videos, it behooves you to check out the post on my website for additional information, resources, and discussion.
Thanks for the tip. Of course, I missed it. Cheers!
Made a new sled using Williams five cut calibrating system and ended up with .00037 to square -- way beyond what I was hoping for.
lead me lord
There is a new master to follow
Thank you for all the great woodworking videos you have shared with us. I had been using an old radial arm saw for my crosscuts but it's travel was too short for some cabinet work I was doing so I decided to make this sled pretty much as shown in the video. Once I set it up with the five cut method and started using it I was amazed at how much better my projects were fitting together. While I do check the calibration on the radial arm saw it will not cut as accurate as this sled. I used oak for the runners as that was the hardest wood I had. I made the sled in winter when the weather was dry and when summer came sure enough the runners swelled and the sled bound up. Using your marker method I was able to fix it quickly. I live in Florida where the humidity can change dramatically. I plan to experiment some different plastic materials to make runners in the future. I highly recommend the methods shown in this video to anyone planning to make a sled.
Decided it was finally time to make a sled for my current saw, bought the new saw a couple years ago and never made another sled. Came back to your video for a refresher. The video, good. My sled-building experience: a rough one.
Cracked two runners on the right side, no matter how well I pre-drilled - just something up with the grain on the pieces I used. Cut something from other scrap and that worked out. Pre-drilled and attached the rear fence (baltic birch), and last screw split it right open. Sigh, grabbed a chunk of maple that was just about the right size and just stuck it on.
In the end, first attempt at the 5 cut had me off .004" front to back on a 12" piece. Definitely leaving this one alone!
I should note, that was .004 at the end of the 5 cuts. (/4 = .001) Bang on! :)
Thanks! Great video. I appreciate very much your very patient, clear narrative.
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Great video! That really helped to figure some things out like the aligning. Thanks man!
Dude...I know you made this 9 years ago...but that was a great instructional video. THANKS!!
Thank you from myself and the rest of the noobs out there for the comprehensive and clear video on how to fabricate, calibrate and use the cross cut sled. I am used to framing but am very interested in stepping up and into finish work fab and furniture so I'm doing some research to determine which skills to start polishing and which to start learning.
And character limit preventing me from closing with a thank you. I appreciate the kind words.
This is an excellent tutorial describing the construction of a crosscut sled. The 5-cut method is thoroughly explained is great. The added bonus is is useful techniques on the use of the sled.
Hands down the best video I have ever watched on reasons for building and the actual build of a cross-cut sled. I feel confident that I can build one now, based on your great video! Thanks for sharing.
Only you, Marc, can make a 20 minute video about a cross-cut sled interesting. This video is quite aged so it's doubtful that you're even going to see this comment. I'll still post it though because I'm that good of a guy.
And I'll answer, because I'm that good of a guy! :) Thanks for watching, man.
HA! This made me laugh.
Earlier I thought the fence should be moved in the opposite way as in the video. But your video is correct. What was confusing was 'Front' and 'Back'....I had them reversed. Maybe better would be Away and Close, or Back and Fence side....At any rate...I've adjusted the fence.......and you are not gong to believe this, but I can post pictures if you want. After 5 cuts, the Away side is .759 ...and the Fence/Close side is also .759 .......Am going to phone the Pope at the Vatican and report a miracle....I even very lightly sanded the piece cut to make sure they were both smooth.......there is NO Difference in the measurements.....lol......z
I believe the geometry will show that if the cutoff is narrower at the front than the back the way he marked them that he should have moved the other side of the fence back.
Thanks for the video. I just used your 5-cut/micrometer method to calibrated my new sled fence. Ironically I was also off only 1.25 thousandths. I got lucky to be that accurate the first time. This is the second sled I've made and I couldn't agree more that there is no more useful jig a woodworker can make.
Thanks, been out of the loop of woodworking for the past five years or so. Nice to get back to my shop, blow off the cobwebs’ and dust and produce something; anything? Making a living does get in the way of creativity and shop time. Made my first sled back in 1999. “As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video! And I support this site.” ~M~
Excellent video!! Im forsure gonna make one of these.. But why clamp the stop to the fence and add a inch?? Why not just use the fence?
It's just a safety precaution. Having the workpiece between the blade and the fence could cause kickback. So it's a little safer to use a stopped fence as demo'd in the video.
Because with the stop clamped to the fence by the time the piece to be cut reaches the blade there will not be contact between it and the fence preventing binding.
What are your feelings about using aluminum for the track?
I was thinking as I watched the section on friction from the runners that, if you can afford it, steel or aluminum miter bars would work great. There are several companies that sell woodworking tools and parts and aluminum bars for miter track sliders. If you want to get adventurous you could contact a local steel supply and ask about small quantities of 3/4 x 3/8 flat bar. I'm not sure just how close to 3/4" their 3/4 inch flat bar might be.
This is a very good schooling of sled building. I do disagree with him about the accuracy though I've had mine about as accurate as his and your work shows it! With the addition of the Altendorf F-45 in our shop, we got it near .001 in 4 sides total. Accuracy is VERY important and these sleds are the backbone of the small shop!
best diy sled video, i like how you show an easy way to calibrate, rather then showing us how to screw things together like most people do in there video.
Thanks
God bless metric system :)) Anyway good!
Curious - Why not Teflon plastic for the runners given the concerns related to humidity?
Ooops, I didn't read the written stuff either! e.g. "UHMW runners are awesome"
Gooey Tarballs l
thanks. Been doing "projects" for the house for ever. Now getting ready to retire I'm looking to set up a legit woodworking shop in the garage to do some things I've always wanted to do. This was very informative and helpful. Been using the table saw for 35 years, never had a sled.....
Mark I have to say you explained this Sled very well and I love the way you made it. I look forward to watching more videos from you. Thanks a million.
This has been driving me INSANE for days: After doing the 5 cut test, his 5th cut is thinner at the front (he marked the front as farther away from his body) and wider at the back (closer to his body) and then says "since it was thinner at the front and thicker at the back I need to bring the left side of my fence towards me just a hair"... Shouldn't it be the opposite way????? I just built myself a table saw sled and am at this step and my 5th piece is narrower at the front (farthest away from me) and wider at the back. It seems i have to move the left side of my fence AWAY from me... shouldn't he have to do the same??? I'm soooo confused!!! Help!!!
+Joe Grosso Hey Joe. The correction was posted in the description. :)
+The Wood Whisperer Thanks Marc
+The Wood Whisperer OMG i'm so stupid. Thanks for letting me know. i should have read the description.. didn't think to do that.
+Joe Grosso mines is the same so do I move the right side of fence or the left standing in front of sled
I'm at this part as well with my sled. I was on my way to get a feeler guage and thought the same thing. Lol
This video won you a top lawyer as a subscriber. I just wish you Americans go metric !!
I wish one of my videos would just win me a top lawyer! You guys are expensive! :)
SisyphusTwo Yeah, I think we technically have, but it obviously wasn't binding. It is just such a massive cultural shift. 320 million people have grown up using a system that they are so familiar with, and billions of USD in consumer goods, road signage, etc would need to be changed. Truly adopting the metric system probably won't happen anytime soon here. We will both just have to continue with the conversions.
I grew up with metric but have worked with both imperial & metric in a professional capacity. The guys on site have always spoken in imperial - the guys in the design office have always spoken in metric. I prefer metric - but get that a 2x2 is easier to say than a 50x50. If I'm roughing it out I talk imperial, if I want accuracy I talk metric. Here in Canada they specify 22mm dia holes for 3/4" bolts - mental.
3/4" is 19mm (or near enough).
The Top Lawyer gives you Top Marks! Toodaloo!
I've Seen Many Sled Builds.
This Is BY FAR The Best Of The Bunch.
I Will Have To Say This Much, You Have "GRANDE-GONADS"
As The Supreme King Of Woodcraft, To Tell Us That, That
Childs Square Is The Largest Square You Have In The Shop. !!!!!!!!!
------- Especially Appreciated That You Demo'd Fine Tuning Of The Sled.
This is a really clear video. Thank you! I really appreciate the time spent to explain how you check for and adjust the accuracy, which is essential in a jig like this. I've watched a number of UA-cam videos on making a workshop jig and many don't address checking accuracy at all. Yours, for this jig, is the clearest explanation I've seen yet. Thanks for taking the time to explain it.
"Here's an item you need and can make yourself when you first start woodworking." *uses thousands of dollars of specialized equipment to make said beginner item* 😜
Agreed. The equipment he used to make it was unrealistic for most people to own so he should have restricted himself to more basic tools.
@@DYI he used a table saw,not much point making a sled if you dont have one
The table saw and drill were fine to use, I was referring to the band saw, table planer and huge sanding table. Even using the exotic wood for the rails with really tight tolerance requirements was tough. I found another design that uses simple wood rails that just rest against the outer edge of the table sides instead of using the guides. Maybe not as precise, but easier and quicker to build. Don't get me wrong, this was an excellent video. The design just was not for everyone.
@@DYI i know what youre saying but novices like us just have to adapt,i dont have an electric plane but iv various sanders and a straight edge
Thanks for the great professional construction tips for a cross cut sled. Just when it seems all has been said about the topic, you have more depth to the subject in a clear, simple way. Much appreciated.
Hi Marc,
I've watched your videos for years and came upon this one this morning. I noticed many other you tubers are making crosscut sleds and using your method to a T.... but never mention your name or video. I've even seen a couple that mention someone else that made a sled which in no doubt used your method. I hope they give you credit for what you do... Thanks for the videos.
Thanks man. That’s the way of things. Everyone gets their ideas from somewhere but eventually the paper trail is lost. I got my sled ideas from William Ng and David Marks. So when the next person credits me, they’re not likely to credit the people that I shouted out in my video. So I don’t worry too much about it since that’s generally how things go online. But I appreciate you noticing. 😊👍
You are an excellent teacher. Thank you. I love how you show not just how easy it is, but all the things that can go wrong, how to avoid them and how to correct them. How to correct a screw hole that is less than a mm off is a sore spot for me... thanks for demonstrating that with calibrating the fence. I'm going to use that technique in many situations!!
I watched another build, and the guy used high density polyethylene for the runners. He pre-cut runners of hardwood and having the proper setting on his table saw with the wood version, he then cut the poly runners off that setting. Worked really slick!
It is very important in a tutorial to be able to explain the process clear and to the point and you have done so perfectly.
thank you
This is about the 10th crosscut sled video I have watched and it will probably be that last. Last night I watched the video from William Ng and it was fantastic. I did notice one difference regarding the runners that a few others brought up and you did not that sounded a bit important but maybe not. They put washers or a small strip under the runners before glueing the top them so that there is a small gap under the runners for dust. William also put a small rabbit under the face of the fence for dust as well just like the chamfer you use, great idea. Just thought I would bring that up.
Great video and thank you for your time and effort producing it. 👍🏼
dude you rock!!!! I have learned more in two hours than I have in six woodworking classes!!! I was beginning to think I couldn't do this, but now I am gaining much more confidence! Thanks!!!!
I even love that your 5 cut test panel was 24" - my goal was to build a sled big enough to cut panels for kitchen cabinets - 24" deep, and you demonstrated that your design is the perfect size.
Built this, and it works great. I always enjoy your vids. As a beginning woodworker, I appreciate the way you make what could be difficult concepts, easy to understand.
Thanks for your prompt reply. I must say I have enjoyed watching all your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us all. I find woodworkers and woodturners are renowned for the way they freely share their ideas. Keep up the great work.
I thought I was losing my mind until I read the mistake you mentioned in your description. Thank you for clearing that up. Great video!
I have heard of the five cut method, but never heard an explanation, thanks very much for the tutorial.
OK, I made it through this time... I don't think mine will make the grade as yours does, but I'm inspired to keep trying. You are an impressive woodworker. Thanks for the instruction.
Thank you for this video. I made my first cross cut sled this weekend following your instructions and it works a treat! I can't believe I was living with a mitre gauge for crosscutting.
Thanks for a very helpful video. I have a comment on the 5-cut method. I worked out the formula for method. It should allow you to get to the right adjustment on the first try.
Let a=the width of the piece from the last cut at the end toward the saw blade
b=the width of the piece at the end against the fence
c=the length of the piece (front to back)
d=the distance from the pivot screw on the fence (right side) that is not moving to the new screw on the left side.
Then the distance that the fence should be moved at the point of the new screw is
d x (b - a) / (4 x c)
If the number is positive, it gives the distance to move toward the saw blade; if negative, the distance away from the saw blade.
very nice sir I live in Arizona and have always been into wood working and work in carpentry but watching your videos make me inspired to become a better wood worker
I built this sled , turned out great , used T track for my runners, took some sanding and fine tuning, but got it nice and smooth, adjusted it with the 1,2,3,4,5 method and got it to .002 of an inch over 6 feet ( wow ) thanks for the video
I know this is ancient history to you but Thank You! for finally explaining this in a way my brain could comprehend. Using your instruction I was able to get my crosscut sled to .001 over 18 inches.
Now I’m excited to build stuff with it
Thanks again!
Best video on crosscut sled I’ve seen. I’ll make this on in coming weeks.
Marc, you have an amazing way of explaining the what and the why, and along with the videos it makes for a brilliant learning experience. I'm building out my basement shop now and this is on my "must do" list. Thanks for doing what you do!
Great video! I made my sled a while ago- and incorporated a sliding stop block in the fence. I dialed the angle to be +-0.002 of a degree to 90. I'm glad I remember trig from high school
Great explanation! I’ve seen lots of woodworkers using the sled and always wondered why. Now for me to get on to making one!
Thanks for the info. I live in an apartment and build toy chest some for My grandchildren some for sale. After watching many videos I decide to build one like yours. My table saw is a folding craftsman and I built a sled 24 x 30 for cutting the Plywood panels following your directions. After tuning and building the sled I made the 5 cut check for square and got .005 it works great Thanks for your videos as inspiration. Also liked the Video about HVLP as this is how I finish Mine.
your explanation of the cuts to make the cross cut perfect was done well.
out standing, you are a very well spoken young man
Definitely a good idea. I usually just use clamps and that works quite well but I can see the value in a built-in clamping system.
Nice easy to make sled, that is accurate and you don't have to spend a fortune in hardware to complete. I have wanted to make one for some time and now I will, thanks for the great tips that accompanied the build. And I thought I was the only one that had a lot of junk piled on the right side of the fence when actually using the saw, measuring tools, push sticks, scrap, dust brush, calculator, etc.
Great how-to on building a sled. Thanks for posting it. I built it last night and in an hour, had it set to a perfect (or at least, as perfect as I can measure!) 90*. This one is only 24" deep (minus the 3" of the fence material); I'll build a deeper one later.
Just started watching your videos. I don't have any one to bounce ideas off, so I have been checking how others have been doing things. I am still setting up my shop. I like the way you have set up your shop.
A good solution to the seasonal wood expansion problem is to use plastic runners. These can be 3d printed or machined as easily as wood. One can also make them segmented and use a wedge and glue method of alignment of the whole sled, thus obviating the reference side tuning and the possibility of the later screws warping the reference edge. The other option is to use Osage orange AKA Bodark wood because the oil content probably prevents moisture infiltration. Hence the reason Bodark was used for Bows.
Great video, Marc. Thank you. Like many, I'd been searching for a while to find a concise approach to a solid sled. I didn't ever feel I needed one until finishing up a top for a Mission-style toy box w/ breadbox ends. It took me a good day to build the sled and then 2 minutes to trim the top ;). Now I have a solid jig.
Great tip RE the chamfer to collect dust on the bottom edge of the fence - it's the little things that make all the difference, and I wouldn't have thought of that as a novice.
TIP: This is just something I fought with that may save others some grief. When screwing the top down into the hardwood runners, some debris got between the two. This made it so that no matter how tight I screwed the top, there was a tiny space between the two materials. I ended up over-torquing and splitting one runner. For round 2, after drilling the pilot holes, I used the counter sink bit to remove a bit of material from the interior faces of the runner and the platform so any dust etc. had somewhere to go. This allowed the two to snug up. Not sure if this is a newbie problem, but the solution worked for me.
Glad to have a great jig in my shop. I was out .002, tried to close in on the difference, chased myself a bit and settled on .002. Good enough for me! Cheers!
@kennjak generally speaking, most folks do remove the blade guard. If you have a simple riving knife or splitter setup, you shouldn't need to remove it. But if you have a plastic guard and anti kickback pawls, you will need to remove the guard assembly.
That last bit with the sliding stop block was slick.
I only used that because it's what I had on-hand. A friend of mine gave me a bunch of scrap from a big job he did. It's not something I would normally seek out. So I would say you might just be better off with a double stack of baltic birch plywood. Two layers glued together should do the trick. Just be sure to clamp them down on a known flat surface to ensure the final assembly is flat enough for use as a fence.
OH yes. Shooting boards are old as dirt but usually used with hand planes and not a tablesaw. But a great fixture to have in the shop.
Brilliant. Has lost nothing in the passage of time. Thank you.
One of the best tutorials I have seen. Thanks Marc.
Very good description on "fine-tuning" the sled that many videos skip. I have a simple sled that works well but I think I'll make one like yours; it will be more useful.
Lok'tar Ogar! for the horde! I think its time i made a cross-cut sled it is defiantly something i could have used in the past and will use in the future. Great and simple design!