the FLAW with Ultimate crosscut sleds
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- PANEL SLED PLANS:
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To be a little more exact with the five-cut method simplification:
1. The test board needs to be square.
2. The size of the test board needs to be the same as the distance between the two screws (one screw is the pivot, one screw is likely near the end of the fence)
3. The pivot point needs to be as close to the blade as possible (1" should do).
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Master craftsman. Loved his shows.
Welp I am new to wood working and bought myself a nice but smaller tablel saw yesterday and I have been watching video's to educate myself on how to make a sled. after watching three other video's my heart sank becauseeee my table saw only has one track. I understand the five cut method and was trying to write down the math form for adjusting the cuts. LET ME TELL YOU, your video replenished my heart and your sled is exactly what I need to make for my table. Now I just have to buy me a router and a band saw and that should be good to last me a lifetime since I will be 66 next month. Thanks for giving this old lady hope!
I demo-ed a 1950's kitchen for a remodel and found that the old cabinet doors are perfect for saw sleds. High quality 3/4 birch veneer plywood and very dimensionally stable after all this time. Best of all, they were free! I've also cut up the smaller doors for a number of one time and multi-use jigs.
Totally feel your 95% vs 100% issue. I think this happens in a lot of creative/maker things. I'm a professional software developer for decades, and this happens ALL THE TIME. Just remember, "Don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good". Great vid Scott.
I was just wanting to come to comment along the same lines as well - and it doesn't seem to matter what area one is creating in. If a person is trying to design tools and workflow for their own home based workshop, of whatever sort, it can really get stymying when it comes to balancing "what will work well most of the time" vs "what will absolutely work all of the time." Working in a home studio, there's always the opportunity to "solve" a "problem" by buying another little gadget. But realistically, it can often be just a reframing of whatever the "problem" is - a lot of the time it can be a small compromise in a workaround that lets things work nicely most of the time. For those rare other occasions, those can just get handled as they come. But mostly good is preferable to always adequate (or seldom perfect).
EDIT: Also, *subscribed*, Scott - I super dig what you're throwing out there!
For sure! Just curious, what are your current tools for software development?
Yes, really huge problem for us in software. Results in vastly over engineered and complicated monstrosities.
@@theyrecousins I actually think my background in framing houses helps me move through that thinking quicker. I was very accustomed to building saw horses in 5 minutes at each new job site but in software I would have to create a UniversalSuperLightUltraConfigurableSawHorse utility library that every single project relies on and and is broken by frequently :D
@@greglloyd2377 Make it work. Then make it better. Eventually it will become great... or you'll change what you need to work on 😉
15:04 My method to attach the fence:
1) Drill two holes to attach the fence. The hole nearest the blade is permanent. With a small round file elongate the hole closest to the outer edge so that the fence can pivot about a mm forward and back.
2) Use a good square to attach the fence as close to 90° as possible.📐
3) Make your cuts to find square.
4) When you're ready to permanently secure the fence, loosen the outer screw slightly to move the fence forward or backward as required, then tighten it down.
6) Install your remaining screws.
1. While the 5-cut method is really interesting and brilliant it's unwarranted. Just did it once it works but never used it again. I've been making cross cut sled just using a carpenter's square and never failed me. I just verify by simply flipping the sample piece and see if the cut still aligns.
2. Your take on the "Ultimate" cross cut sled - full of features and heavy - is spot on. My go to sled is now a very simple light one. My previous "ultimate and universal" sled is still there in a remote, less premium spot of my shop, waiting for the rare special-task moment when it would be called upon again.
3. One sided/one-runner sled is also what I prefer. However, if I were you I would have just use 1/2 ply for the base - a lot lighter yet does the job as well. Also, I would stick to the tried and tested back, rather than front, fence. Front fence would require more user effort to balance and secure the piece.
Well said, I agree on all points
Clearly, accuracy isn't a concern for you.
@@saltwaterrook4638 I’ve built beautiful furniture on my sled that was checked/built with a square. The term “accuracy” in woodworking is too often applied to the obscene degree.
@@5280Woodworking I have to agree. Most woodworkers are using a crosscut sled for a cut between 2 and 12 inches long. A variance of 1/500th over 24 inches becomes irrelevant at those shorter lengths, even with compound error, when using wood.
Depends on what your tolerances are for a given project. The 5 cut method takes minimal effort and time. To get a 24 inch crosscut edge that is a perfect reference for a long tenon on tight, gapless breadboard ends is worth the 10 or 15 minutes it usually takes. Better to have it and not need it.
I was a big fan of the New Yankee Workshop, watched with my grandson every week. Missed or don't remember the panel sled. Thanks for bringing it back to all of us who have been struggling with wide panels and narrow "ultimate sleds" or miter gauges with the miter bar being far too short to set up an accurate cut. I just relied on my table saw fence, but knew there was a better way. This is another jig in my future projects.
Ha - the irony here is that the only jig I always remembered Norm for was his panel cutter! :)
ETA: It was a great show, wasn't it? You always felt like at the end of each episode "Yep - I could make that now!" because everything was so clearly explained and calmly demonstrated. And yet 20 years later I've never managed to build anything Norm did because he was just so brilliant at everything he put together.
I made Norm's panel sled about 15 years ago and have used it countless times since. Glad you borrowed from his simple yet effective design. Yours came out great and I hope it lasts you many years too.
You look like a pretty tall guy. I'm 5'5". Don't feel comfortable reaching over the blade all the time. But, lots of good ideas I can adapt to a near-side fence version. Thanks.
I used a piece of 1/4 mdf for the base of my sled. All the strength comes from the front and back pieces which I connected with a couple longitudinal bars which make for nice handles. Whole thing is light and sits nice and flat. I like your detail with the chamfer for the sawdust.
The summer Scott looks chill af
😂
I like the mentality of creating a few smaller, more purpose driven sleds, then one "ultimate all in one" sled. Aside from being more manageable it's also much easier to iterate on them based on how you ACTUALLY use them :)
My thing is...I don't really do much plain everyday crosscutting on my table saw. That's what my miter saw is for. A sled would be used to mount a box joint jig or something like that to.
I didn't see this comment posted but forgive me if it is a repeat. I think it is important to know before going to build this, the woodworker really needs to consider their height and reach. Your arms may be weak (😊) but what I would do to have your height and reach! Having the fence on the back side of the sled would not work for my 5'3" frame. Unless I stood on a stool which I have had to do in a pinch but not really that safe.
All that said..I completely agree with the no need for massive jigs! And really enjoy your Videos!!
Love this video. Many woodworking channels don't analyze the needs versus end results. This video is perfect for all weekend woodworking enthusiasts.
It would be nice if you would use a riving knife in your table saw. It is of course your decision what safety measures you use while working and how close you come with your hands to the blade, but as a youtuber you are a role model and encourage others to work the same way.
Personally I never had to remove mine for any cut, especially if the knife is not higher than the blade.
I was just getting ready to make a table saw sled for squaring larger panels when I randomly came across your design. I have to say I like it because its light,easy to make and very functional for panel squaring, I'll will probably use this design. Thank you for sharing! Oh and the most common reason why most sleds should be on the left side of the blade is because most table saws are right tilting, which means the blade mounts against the arbor on the left and if the sled were on the right of the blade then the cut line will be off if you ever change blades that have a different kerf thickness.
The point of about optimum solutions being specialized rather than generalized is really key. Every shop is unique. Every workflow is unique. Having a tool that does your most common jobs as efficiently as possible at the expense of jobs you never or rarely do is exactly right.
The sled doesn't reference the fence, it references the miter slots. So the reality is, the method of putting the piece against the fence doesn't actually do anything to make your sled square at all. You can set the base panel at any angle on the bar as long as there is material past the blade to be cut off. It really doesn't matter because once you run the piece through the saw, you have one edge that is parallel with the miter slot. From there its easy to square a fence anywhere you want to on the base. The 5 cut method is actually really brilliant, because you could, in fact square up a fence that is up to 11.25 degrees off.
6:11 sled’s on the left, because (1) of how the arbor sticks out to the right, the kerf will be flush with the sled even if the blade changes; (2) right (dominant) hand closer to the middle of the sled; and (3) long boards don’t hit the fence.
Wow! I finally got around to watching this video! I love your take on the "one size fits all" issue! NOTHING needs to do EVERYTHING! That's why you don't frame with a finish nailer or cope with a circular saw. That's why people like us have so many tools!😅 This is a great sled! Thanks for the video and the idea!
Seeing the new Yankee workshop made me tear up and remember my dad. He adored that show and had a bunch of their plans and books.
Depending on your general use case, greater reliability totally makes more sense than greater flexibility. Tailoring your workspace to your workflow is simply good practice, regardless of circumstance. I'm a fan of both multi-purpose and specialized tools and use them both in different situations for different purposes.
I just use the Incra Miter 5000. It does everything yours does, is easy to adjust and it can cut 100% repeatable angles up to .5 degrees of accuracy. And the T slot adapter can be put on or removed without having to take the whole thing apart.
Somehow, I suspect the cost of his sled is less than $325.
I have the Incra 1000 and it goes to .1degree ( one tenth of 0ne degree ) . That is machine shop accurate. Have they never seen Incra? Absolute repeatable! Basic model = $100. USD
8:45 my last sled i built had a 6mm base, the thin board conforns to the cast iron bed so its always flat. The base is only really there to help thingsxslide and keep the fence perpendicular to the blade.
I'm planning to build my next one using 2mm phenolic sheet as it slides really well and is incredibly stable
You could use a cut off piece, if you dont have feeler gauge.if you need to rotate fence counterclockwise then put closest end between block and fence. secure block, rotate lenghwise cut off piece and adjust fence
I gotta say, I have never and probably will never do anything related to Woodworking yet I find your Videos extremely interesting.
Never try, it's a trap. Once you cut your first board, you urge to get more wood and tools and you find yourself justifying spending a lot of money for your new hobby. :D
My jigs all have Ultra High molecular weight polyethylene , it doesn't swell, is very stable, resists wear unbelievably well & its slippery. drills, cuts with regular wood working blades & drills ...awesome product for sleds & jigs ....did i mention glue doesn't stick to it
Super well executed build and entertaining vid, 500 points deserved young man. I built the same sled 20 years ago. . . only one problem, if you forget to hold your work securely against the front fence it will kick back. I'll give you 500 more points if you point that out to your viewers. Think heel and wedge blocks like in an old typeface printing press frame. I'm a fan of your channel, like your style .
Try using virgin (white) UHMW Polyethylene runners for your sleds. UHMWPE is: highly abrasion resistant, self-lubricating(used to make plain bearings), has an ultra low coefficient of friction(second only to virgin Teflon) so it slides extremely easy, it does not change size with humidity, it is easy to work with using wood working tools, and it is inexpensive.
UHMW also makes a good runner choice.
Traditional cross cut Sled work just fine and are probably a lot safer to use. I have 2. a large one and a smaller one. Been using them for 30 years
Weight is an issue but can be made lighter by not overkilling it .
This might be a good idea for panels but for small pieces, using the fence in a "reverse orientation" and pushing the piece using the fence while holding the workpiece in place, the user would have to reach over the table saw placing his/her body in a dangerous position in relation to the blade; but for larger panels, I can see its usefulness.
Loved that look when you pointed to the Kreg flip stop 😳 🤣 Another great build and video. And an homage to Norm!!
I have watched a number of sleds being built and yours makes the best idea for me. Thanks
Fence on the far side in place of the near
This is great! Love the chamfer on the bottom of the fence. Heard about that somewhere after I had built my first sled. Not sure how I feel about the fence in the back, but I might try this out. Pretty sure that roller on the miter bar is to go out back so when the front of the sled is heavy, it won't tip off the front of the table. About the blade side... If the sled goes on the right side of the blade, you can't use it with a dado stack. From the left side you could do whatever width dado stack you want.
Lovely video!
Personally, I would add 2 things to this sled, or maybe 3;
1- A fixed hold down clamp about 1/2" to 1" away from the blade
2- A bolt that would be through the jig and the runner, held in place by a nut, with an epoxied piece of metal stock (slim enough on one side to fit in the slot of your tablesaw and long enough so that when rotated 90 degrees, it fits the width of the slot. That way, you can just take a screwdriver or something like this and do a quick 90 degree turn of the screw to make it so that the jig cannot get out of the slot and kickback in your face if anything were to happen (most likely it wouldn't happen, but its a nice safety feature)
3 (and lastly)- I would've liked to see a fixed fence and an adjustable pivoting fence, so you can make quick miters on there (its sometimes useful as the other type of jigs aren't really optimized for that... this one is)
I like your delivery and dry humor. This is a great video with excellent examples!
Love the simplicity of what you are doing and your explanations are great
Amen! About 7 years ago, I built one of the "ultimate crosscut sleds" made popular on UA-cam. What was I thinking? At last, I am free! Have not yet built another but a truly liberating thing happened last month when I needed a roll off to handle some bathroom reno work in our house. I looked at that damn behemoth leaning against my router table, walked it out and tossed it in the roll off. Ever since building that thing it has been nothing but a headache. Can't leave it on the saw, every place you put it int the shop it's in the way, it is constantly falling over. I honestly grew to hate the thing! So thank you for recognizing that in certain unique situations, size doesn't make something better. Think I'll give your design a try.
Hi Scot, I am enjoying your videos.
re; loss of height when using 3/4 plywood base - whiners! Yes, if you are using a saw table with an 8' blade, but cutting with a 10 or 12" blade, depth of cut should not be a problem.
re; Mitre bars for the sled, I have used some plastic drawer glides and have not been worried about swelling or wear and tear needing adjusting. I have an old saw with a troublesome fence that needs measuring at both ends before cutting, each and every time. I do like the small version of a cut sled with the additional ideas.
The old sled is now the penultimate sled
Oh, I like the cut of your jig. A most satisfactory testing and correction technique you have there.
I heard Veritas and said, this guy is Canadian!
Great video. Just bought my first table saw and looking for a basic sled to start. Thanks for the great design
Shoot a few blasts of CA accelerator on the wood. When you join it with the aluminum miter bar, instant set. This is a great way to use accelerator: CA on one side, accelerator on the other. BAM.
Over in Europe the gold standard is actually a panel saw with built in carriage sled on the side. My father who was a professional carpenter before me used a Felder combination machine that had this style of table saw but also a router table sunk into the top that you could set up to use on the other side of the machine. Sadly he passed away but that machine still sits in his old workshop and I hope to buy it from the current owner one day. All that said however, seeing this video I can't imagine having to do everything without that panel saw carriage!
I never see panel saws in the US, except at the big construction supply stores. They seem incredibly good for panels. I see people using track saws here, but track saws are a pain to constantly setup and move around. A panel saw would be amazing. I noticed they are way overpriced, which is probably why nobody has them here, they are like $5,500 of USD or something like that if I remember right.
Thanks Scott. Finally I saw a good channel from Canada. Most people include link to tools used in the video but almost all of them are pointing to US sites.
I will make mine to cut on the right side of the blade as I am Left handed and that is just more natural to me. Great video BTW.
nice job, especially on figuring the deviation from the right angle
If you recess some rare earth magnets into the base of the sled it will hold the sled to your table without as much pressure needed to keep the sled level.
Scott a quarter inch piece of masonite would be fine enough for a base. If you want to make it lighter drill a pattern of lighting holes in it 1 - 2" The same goes for the fence. Make one and see. Supper light and just as stable.
Time to rethink again. ¾" stock is so over kill for most things built in most shops! Columbus Michigan.
Finally another vid 🙂. I have to make the sled just always been lazy ☺️
Thanks for cool insights!!
As a short person that’s tamping on the counter, I feel too short to get leverage that feels comfortable on my wrist and shoulder to push down the tamper unless I am on my toes. Maybe I’m doing it wrong.
Nothing stopping the original sled from being lightened, and you could even do it completely hidden fairly easily. Take the front and rear fences off. Use a Forstner bit a little under the width, and drill up from the bottom hogging out material to close to the top, and avoid the screw holes, side holes etc. Then lighten the plywood from the bottom, making sure to not go through. Take the point off of a Forstner bit so you can cut flat and nearer to the top surface. You could also just go fully through the plywood, and put your own new veneer surface on top and bottom.
Should be relatively easy to get to 1/3rd of original weight, maybe even down to 1/4 if you try hard.
The crosscut sled is about having the reference surfaces and alignment, not about keeping all of the internal wood weight, so just get rid of that part..
And the forward fence is almost 100% about holding the gap together and in line. Forget the full fence, use a piece about 6" wide with a couple of screws on each side. Then you can easily take it off for the rare time you have a larger width board, but the ends don't flop around at the gap the rest of the time..
That said I do generally prefer the other design myself as well. But most of the main drawbacks of the normal larger type sleds can be mitigated.
The saw table is a stout and flat support surface, so I don't see why 1/2" or even 3/8" for the base wouldn't be sufficient.
If you orient the grain on a hardwood runner side to side in the slot, seasonal humidity changes will cause it to expand down into the miter slot, minimizing issues.
I prefer to use two layers of 1/4" luan underlayment plywood glued together that gives me just under a 1/2 " thickness. Being plywood, it has minimal seasonal movement, if any. And I can pick up a 2x2 piece of it at my local home center vs ordering and waiting for a metal runner.
You mean , orient the grain horizontally (just to clarify for people).
Scott, There is always the 3,4,5 method for attaining a perfect square. 3" on one run, 4" on the other if square will ALWAYS = 5" on the bias. Can be multiplied as needed depending on the size of your project.
more useful for large scale situations - not accurate for this application and the maths to calculate the adjustment would be considerably more complicated.
Sliding miter saw: Am I a joke to you?!
Yes a sliding miter saw is the proper tool to use for cutting most pieces to length, and if you need more cutting length, you use a panel saw or track saw. Sleds are hacky and quite frankly I do not believe they are as safe as people think they are.
Really enjoyed your pleasant presentation, humor and general thinking. Learning while enjoying is the key.
Good video, thanks for the 5 cut explanation. I've also seen cross cut sleds with holes drilled in them which makes them even lighter. I'm with you! Light and nimble and accurate is the way to go.
I made the most exact sled ever by using my CNC to cut a rectangle, with a miter gauge slot at 90 degrees to the long side. Inserted the rail, attached a fence against the long side of the sled, and ran the whole thing across the blade. Quick and accurate (if you have a CNC).
PS: there's an alternative, floating around UA-cam, to the redundant 5 cut method. Its 3 cuts, uses the same principles as the 5 cut, and there's no math at all. But you still need the feeler gauge.
The ending was excellent 😂
Too true about perfection. Heck, even machinists can only really work to within the tolerance of their measuring gauges which will probably not be perfect. I appreciate the tip about feeler gauge to correct the error after the 5 cut method. This is simple and I never thought of it when I built my last sled. Cheers!
I made the Norm Abram panel sled 20 years ago and still use it today. I have never felt the need to make any other sled for my table saw. It's my go-to sled. Really enjoyed your Volg. Cheers From Western Australia.
Yeah, I called you out on the 3/4" thick sled on your last video. Still standing by that. I find 1/2" multi-ply is more than stable enough - so why go thicker?
In fact, as I do more projects, I keep trying to go thinner. I built cabinets in my van/RV conversion with 3/8" multi-ply. Considering 1/4" now.
Going to make your sled though (but, you know, with 1/2" Baltic birch). Very cool.
Agreed. Think about it. Of all the sled components, the base is in principle the least likely to introduce referencing errors, and the most likely to be stable in shear, which is its critical function. A thinner base doesn't change these factors at all.
The only problem with a thinner base is its potential to deform out of plane, and in so doing to carry the fence out of square - not out of miter, at least not directly, but only that the fence may no longer be perfectly vertical. Imagine a base made out of thin sheet steel. The fence would wobble fore and aft, very slightly affecting depth of cut, but it would not rotate out of miter unless you twisted one end of the fence forwards and the other end backwards.
That deformation out of plane is the effect to guard against in the choice of base material and thickness. And this is a further argument for making the sled the full width of the table. Half again wider means half again stiffer overall.
Love it !! Super smart design and the 5 way cut to make it sqare is SO !! much easier ti understand and explain to friends. Thank you very much , your french Canuk friend Jay-R .
sweet baby jesus that's a nice sled, thanks.
I use Corian runners and they work great...
Great video. Think that sled is in my future after winter
Left unsaid, however, is that your old fence is a zero-clearance device which helps with tear-out.
Crosscut sleds like this-great design though it is- significantly reduce the cutting depth of the blade, the one I have just junked was 5/8ths" thick and it was a problem as I only have a table top saw so today I bought a pack of damaged laminate flooring (£5!) from B&Q which I believe is only1/4" thibc and will make a new sled out of it tomorrow.
I can't do without one now, they make using the saw very much safer-and often, more accurate
“Quārter” lmao that got me good
I have a Dewalt jobsite saw. There is not enough table to only use one side of the saw, which would cause it to fall off the end. So this sled will not work for me. I did build an ultimate sled, same dimensions as yours, but fence is shorter, smaller, thinner, used 1/2 inch baltic birch plywood, Kreg stop fence ruler, and cut away 3 inches from my kerf so that I can make custom zero clearance inserts, attached from the bottom. Works great and only weighs 19 lbs!!
Good solution. Might give that a try with some salvaged IKEA mdf.
MDF is heavy. Part of what he's avoiding.
Drill a bunch of holes with a hole saw in your massive sled and it will be much lighter without loosing much rigidity.
Yes, a lot lighter. Assuming a 1" hole every 2" in the field on the side left of the blade, I estimate you'd remove the weight of about 116 sq in. of that area.
It does make for some serious pinch points though.
But it does nothing to change the form factor or capacity of the sled, and little to change the balance.
02:19 he said he could, but it would be to much work for the later benefits.
@@Kahsimiah that's right 😅🫣
We are currently making a video on walnut slabs and could have used a good cross-cut sled. We tried to make a cross-cut sled recently. Did some quick work with scrap wood and CA glue. This is something one should really take some time and design. We would like to attempt it again. your video was inspirational.
The most important thing wrong here is you do not have the hold down keep the wood apart so it does jam the blade knife mounted on your table saw
Thank you, Sir. I respectfully question your comment that the test board must be square. To my mind, the initial squareness does not matter. The test board need only be four-sided and could have been rough cut by a hand saw or jig saw. It is necessary only to have one edge which allows a stable location against the slide's fence. The first cut is made in that way. The first four cuts make the board as square as the position of the slide's fence allows it to be. The fifth cut is then used as you describe. For your simplified method to work it is necessary for the fifth cut strip to be shorter than the fence. More particularly the length of that strip is the distance between your first pivoting screw and the measuring/correcting point. Am I wrong?
I work with perspex and need to have a repeatable accuracy of 0.01 mm. I manage this on a De Walt table saw with a homemade aluminium sled with an adjustable fence to accommodate the angles I need. That degree of accuracy I have never needed with any timber unless I am using really hard woods like Purple Heart or Ebony.
The sizes I work with are between 19mm down to 7mm square, out of 300x300 stock, so accuracy is essential.
Thanks for explaining the 5-Cut-Method that well!
Yes it made perfect sense , thank you
Instead of securing your fence permanently you should make it movable. Simple change to do that plus you can use it to cut angles and re- adjust back to square.
Plus there are youTube videos on how to accomplish this. Just makes the sled that more versatile and still be easy to use.
That push stick thing you are using is a great way to lose part of your thumb.
Great sled and video Scott! I too have one of those big and heavy sleds, I will be making one like your here very soon! Love your videos and style of presenting your projects. Already looking forward to your next one. Thank you for sharing!
Very well explained and demonstrated!
Watching to the end to see you wreck on your loving haters was worth it. My first CC sled was a "big ugly" too. I wised up. Nice job.
Nice idea. Fit for purpose and not over-engineered. And you're right, trigonometry is not necessary at these small angles. The difference is too small to bother with.
I don't do much wood working anymore and don't even own a table saw any longer, but if I did, this would be the sled I would build and use. Heck I might even buy a new table saw just to build me a sled....not. I do find your videos to be very informative and you use techniques that just make sense and are easy to grasp. I also appreciate your focus on safety. Far to many other You Tubers do not show proper safety techniques...especially when using a table saw. So props for that sir.
Neat idea, maybe even better reversed with the fence at the back. The 5 cut is overrated. I used a quality 24” square and screwed it down. If it looks square using tools I trust for furniture building, it’s good enough.
i enjoy your comic relief. but most important I like your design better than other vids that I saw.
Its like fellow carpenters I work with who buy a 12” mitre saw because it can cut a 6x6.
These are not guys who are often cutting 6x6’s.
I went 10” because I can exchange nicer blades with my table saw. Also if I ever find myself needing to cut a 6x6 I can rotate the board.
Interesting choice of finish. I also heard if you mixed boiled linseed oil with paste finishing wax and then apply to your sled, it makes it so the sled glides really nice while protecting your sled from moisture. I am finally going to build one soon, thank you for all your tips. I think I like the small one too, easier to handle and store, and for bigger cuts I can just use my straight edge.
Just remember that boiled linseed oil is literally explosive. If you leave it laying around it can spontaneously combust. So you have to have a designated area that is fire proof to dispose the stain rags and brushes if you're using it. I decided to stick to not using boiled linseed oil and returned the can I had to the store. Stains are dangerous too and can combust. It's apparent after watching videos that many woodworkers still don't know about the spontaneous combustion of stains, and boiled linseed oil. They sell metal stain garbage cans on Amazon, and these prevent 100% of fires by having a tight fitting lid and being steel.
"If you don't think a level is straight enough, you should probably be a machinist or something". This got my sub.
Bu benim yaptığım ilk aparattı. Çok acemiydim, uydurmuştum ama çok işe yaramıştı. Benimki 6 mm sunta ile yapıldı ve sadece 1,5 kg. Çit ise önde değil arkada. Sanırım öne almalıyım daha düzgün çalışacağını farkettim. Teşekkürler.
Ahhh the baltic birch glory days…. 🥲
I really dig this design, checks more boxes than the one I built
Excellent design. Thank you.
Liked the video a lot. Simple sled with excellent explanation. The "almost" triangle shape with the fence on the opposite side makes a lot of sense now that you demonstrated it on your video. I have the typical type of sled, it's not massive; however, I will make this style sled as my primary one. I am just a every other month wood warrior. Thank you for sharing.
Again Nice Job on your video shots. you can tell you spend time on shooting it. This sled is on my list to build for sure! Thanks for taking the time to do your videos
I happily viewed/ listened twice to the entire video and explanations... I think it's a very exact and clever method, and results in precision... though I don't know much, I plan to construct one for myself...
Why in the world would the shop I go to have a tiny sled that wobbles within the slot of the Table Saw? But that's what is available, and I think it's dangerous (plus I had to throw away the worked wood. )
great little sled, I opted for the hdpe sled runners