I want to shorten the distance between the mouthpiece and the valves on a valve trombone, I asked a repair shop , and he said it was too much trouble, and not worth it, but after watching your videos I think it would be quite easy, at least for someone like you. But I think I'm going to try and do it myself.
I'm curious how the flame might discolor the finish. Has that ever been an issue for anyone who has done this, or is the flame not hot enough for long enough duration to cause such damage?
Ha! The old nasty brass I have to deal with can take hours and hours of scrubbing and scouring before they are playable. I got so triggered when you said you were done cleaning that slide after only a couple minutes, lol
Hello Sir, many thanks for these great videos. I would like to ask about the water key on a trombone. My son has been playing for over 3 years now and this water key just broke for a third time. Have to take it for soldering again but I wonder, is there any way this water key can be soldered forever on the slide, I mean this is getting really annoying and getting it stuck permanently somehow would be great if possible! Thank you!
If the outer slide tubes are not 100% parallel vertically to the instrument, isn´t that actually a good thing because it puts some tension on the main slide and keeps it from falling out?
The best way is to use a valve casing mandrel. I will be publishing a video on that in a few weeks. If you do not have a valve casing mandrel that is the correct size, it is best to take it to a repair shop because it is possible to do some serious damage if it is not done correctly.
You can use 60/40 (60% silver 40% lead) solid core solder. A small diameter like .032 is better. 50/50 also works. But you have to properly prep the area to be soldered as well. It takes practice - it's really easy to make a mess.
@@trumpetvids agree about a mess…. Your vids are awesome btw….helped me unstick a very stuck slide….I did burn the joint slightly….any suggestions how to clean it up?
I am not sure. I had never heard of this before, so I just looked it up. Soldering irons do not work on musical instruments; they just make a big mess. I am not sure if the SMD would do the same, or if it would work well. If anyone knows, please leave a comment.
A SMD rework station is what I was specifically thinking about, similar to this: www.hakkousa.com/products/rework/fr-811-hot-air-rework-system.html Because the rework station produces a stream of controlled temperature air, it might be able to at least de/re-solder joints without damage to the finish. Lois Rossmann does an excellent review of a hot air rework station. ua-cam.com/video/ChujyTV-HME/v-deo.html But I did know that a soldering iron would never work. :) Thanks
Ok, I recently purchased an SMD hot air station (Quick 861 DW), which goes up to 500C. But after trying it on a trumpet lead pipe I can say that if held in on spot on a solder location that single spot of solder might start to melt. Not enough for the whole joint at that location. 500 C = 932 F which is just shy of the 1325 F needed for melting lead free solder. So no go on the SMD hot air station.
I use acid flux and 40/60 lead/tin solder. This works the best, but there are other types that can work too. I hope to publish a video on soldering soon, but it may take a few weeks to do it.
Here is a link to a video that I made. It is from a video of me restoring an old cornet. There was a lot of solder that needed to be cleaned on it. ua-cam.com/video/t14N-AmIkVA/v-deo.html
I want to shorten the distance between the mouthpiece and the valves on a valve trombone, I asked a repair shop , and he said it was too much trouble, and not worth it, but after watching your videos I think it would be quite easy, at least for someone like you.
But I think I'm going to try and do it myself.
I'm curious how the flame might discolor the finish. Has that ever been an issue for anyone who has done this, or is the flame not hot enough for long enough duration to cause such damage?
Man, keep these coming, they are great!!! You are a master craftsman!
Ha! The old nasty brass I have to deal with can take hours and hours of scrubbing and scouring before they are playable. I got so triggered when you said you were done cleaning that slide after only a couple minutes, lol
Hello Sir, many thanks for these great videos. I would like to ask about the water key on a trombone. My son has been playing for over 3 years now and this water key just broke for a third time. Have to take it for soldering again but I wonder, is there any way this water key can be soldered forever on the slide, I mean this is getting really annoying and getting it stuck permanently somehow would be great if possible! Thank you!
If the outer slide tubes are not 100% parallel vertically to the instrument, isn´t that actually a good thing because it puts some tension on the main slide and keeps it from falling out?
If the slides are loose that can be a good thing, but usually it just causes problems.
So very helpful
how do you fix a small dent in a Trumpet valve casing?
The best way is to use a valve casing mandrel. I will be publishing a video on that in a few weeks. If you do not have a valve casing mandrel that is the correct size, it is best to take it to a repair shop because it is possible to do some serious damage if it is not done correctly.
Please tell me what solder you use. Is there different solders for different trumpets? Where could I find quality solder?
You can use 60/40 (60% silver 40% lead) solid core solder. A small diameter like .032 is better. 50/50 also works. But you have to properly prep the area to be soldered as well. It takes practice - it's really easy to make a mess.
@@trumpetvids 60/40 would mean 60% tin (not silver) ;)
@@trumpetvids agree about a mess…. Your vids are awesome btw….helped me unstick a very stuck slide….I did burn the joint slightly….any suggestions how to clean it up?
Neutralize the flux?
I'm curious if an SMD temperature controlled soldering station would wok as well as flame, maybe even a bit more precise in the heat applied?
I am not sure. I had never heard of this before, so I just looked it up.
Soldering irons do not work on musical instruments; they just make a big mess. I am not sure if the SMD would do the same, or if it would work well. If anyone knows, please leave a comment.
A SMD rework station is what I was specifically thinking about, similar to this: www.hakkousa.com/products/rework/fr-811-hot-air-rework-system.html
Because the rework station produces a stream of controlled temperature air, it might be able to at least de/re-solder joints without damage to the finish.
Lois Rossmann does an excellent review of a hot air rework station. ua-cam.com/video/ChujyTV-HME/v-deo.html
But I did know that a soldering iron would never work. :)
Thanks
That's an interesting idea. I'm curious if it would work too.
Ok, I recently purchased an SMD hot air station (Quick 861 DW), which goes up to 500C. But after trying it on a trumpet lead pipe I can say that if held in on spot on a solder location that single spot of solder might start to melt. Not enough for the whole joint at that location. 500 C = 932 F which is just shy of the 1325 F needed for melting lead free solder. So no go on the SMD hot air station.
Ah, bummer. Thanks for trying.
What type of flux is used for instruments, and what type of solder?
I use acid flux and 40/60 lead/tin solder. This works the best, but there are other types that can work too. I hope to publish a video on soldering soon, but it may take a few weeks to do it.
If the solder chosen has pine rosin already in its core, will it still spread well into the joint without a separate application of flux?
how to clean connection after soldering if You have to much solder on it?
Here is a link to a video that I made. It is from a video of me restoring an old cornet. There was a lot of solder that needed to be cleaned on it.
ua-cam.com/video/t14N-AmIkVA/v-deo.html