...I just replaced the rotted door sill at our side door entrance. The driveway was sunk near the door, so wayer would pool there. I fixed the driveway and slopped it away from the door. Then, I replaced the rotted sill with one i made out of concrete. Them fixed a crack in the foundation caused by the water pooling and seeping below the door.. installed a new, pre hung door. Ill be using the GE stuff. I had some old caulming kying around I was gonna use, but you convinced me otherwise. House was built in 1949. All of that was born out of me wanting to remodel the basement stairs, lol.
Nice to see this house again. I like it because it's similar to mine. We even recently had to have someone come seal the boot for our sewer vent on the roof. My only question is: What do you use for areas that are under the soil line? my water line intrusion lets a bit of water drip into the basement whenever we get a lot of rain. Eventually, I'm going to have to dig down and seal it from the outside, but I can rarely find a definitive idea of what so use for that.
I was alway taught to push the bead .. not drag it. This way you're pushing it deeper in to the joints while draging it simply leave a bead on the surface thus not adhering as well. Comments?
@@rosssimmons7813 run your finger on the backside of the head Kayden and that will push it in. Pushing the caulk bead never seem to get a good result for me, but 🤷♂️
Good product choice. In my research, the two best sealants that you can buy in normal stores are GE Supreme Silicone and OSI / LePage (Henkel) Quad Max. They are both significantly higher-performance than older, cheaper products. Quad Max is a modern descendant of polyurethane sealants, and it will stick well to almost anything, even if the surface has been prepared poorly. Supreme Silicone will stick slightly worse to some surfaces, but if it does stick, it will last longer than Quad Max over the decades.
Good choices, but even better 1. Tremco Dymonic and Dymonic FC - silane longer track , longer record than Quad Max. Quad max has a larger color palette for sure,a nd a bit easier to work with 2. For silicones, note that there is GE residential products taht they sold name to another company (and is sold at big boxes) and their true and outstanding highly specialized commercial silicone line 3. But really great silicone is precora 895, esp fr stucco (STO recommends)
10:02 @home RenoVision diy Jeff, you ever try DAP EXTREME STRETCH Acrylic Urethane Premium Elastomeric Sealant? It’s been my new fav for outdoor “caulk” to seal up those pesky areas. Its sticks to everything, and makes a great finished feathered sealed bead b/t concrete/stucco and “X” materials that’s used here in Florida. Been great and have had test piece gone thru 4 hurricanes that’s concrete/stucco/wood/aluminum (door/door concrete sill/aluminum door threshold/frame and stucco of house) and still holding today as new as installed 2 years ago now…. So far 👍🏻👍🏻
I'm a fan of Sashco products, they are hugely elastic (big stretch, Lexel, and Through the roof). Does not play well with going over Silicone products so prep work is needed to remove the previous residue.
@@shensley011 that’s good to know. I just bought a case of Big stretch for a new siding repair project. How long did you need to let it setup before painting?
Vulkem 116 Polyurethane. Sticks to everything (and I do mean EVERYTHING - its a f*cking mess to clean-up!!) and just so happens to come in a color that's a "close enough" match for my house paint.
Thank you so much for this video. I have a similar house (1964) in Montreal so it's great to have someone in a similar climate doing stuff like this. My caulking is absolutely due for a change but I've been told that it's best to wait for when it's warmer. Realistically, if we get a few dry days in November, would that be ok to put some silicone like you do, or should I wait for next year? I have similar flashing to yours, is its because the work might all be in vain by summer when it starts expanding?
I know you're showing caulking around the home but what about between slabs of concrete? My neighbor and I share a driveway. The grey fill between the slabs are literally coming out in pieces, weeds are getting in, maple seeds are getting stuck, seen some ants. What to use to refill after doing a good clean out?? Cheers and thanks. As a single female homeowner you have helped me learn so much. Hopefully after you retire your son will continue your work.
use a backer rod to fill it up or polymeric sand. then fill it with a self leveling polyurethane sealant like Sika as long as it isn't on a slope, and sprinkle some sand on top to blend.
My neighbour has caulked all the gaps in the sidewalk and the cracks in his driveway, it looks bad and catches the shovel while clearing snow. Don’t caulk between slabs of concrete.
Currently doing the same for my home inside and out, preparing for winter. Only 2yo but it’s clear the builder used inferior sealants. Now using a class 35 UV resistant sealant for exterior.
little trick from a pro i met once take shims sand them round in a variety of widths soak them in a dish soap water mix for an hour or more use those shims instead of your thumb or finger. makes a way nicer bead. grab a rag to clean them off and dip them and leave them soaking in the dish soap and water mix when you aren't using them.
Trick I've seen is using various size shoe molds or quarter rounds. Have like a few different options, round off, bevel and chamfer the ends. I guess it also works similar to shims. A bit more sturdy as my shims split and crack easily. Definitely seen the soaking and dish soap method
The knob on your front door is installed upside down. The cuts of the key should face up when being inserted in the lock cylinder. Otherwise, the tumblers stick up from the bottom and all the dirt blowing around ends up jammed in the tumblers resulting in premature failure.
Dirt and dust isn't the only thing that messes with the tumblers. Water can get in there, too. If the tumblers are at the bottom of the lock water tays there and causes rust. If it turns cold the water will freeze.
The only thing I will add, too often one will just cut the tip and many times, too large of an opening. Make your opening specific to how much of a line thickness , that will work. Obviously, too little is no good, and too large, is a waste, and a problem to tool. Finally, in my case, I take some sand paper, and lightly sand the cut on the outside edge, lightly curving it. You will find it hardly ever snags, and the tip runs easily along the line. Worked for me, the last 35 years. Your mileage may vary, practice helps, if you are doing it for the first time. Good video, later.
Another great video Jeff. I have a house a bit older than this one but with similar exterior finishings: the brick facade mixed with white aluminium siding.. I'm looking at all the re-sealing that needs to be done around the white aluminum siding and I'm starting to think it might be better to rip it off, fix and replace any water damaged wood inside, then re-wrap the sheating and go with cement fibreboard. It's a big investment but it seems like almost as much work as resealing aorund all that metal. What do ou think?
You can use the window cleaner spray with baby blue cap to spray on the Silicone after you put it down and then press and wipe the caulk without sticking.
I used the ge supreme silicone for the kitchen sink and mold started building on the silicone. Going to redo it but should I even buy it again or something different
mold doesn't eat silicone. if it's growing on ge supreme, i doubt any other caulk will do better, it's pretty good. check for mold underneath, often mold from under/behind the caulk is the source. from experience, if there has been mold growth in the area, it often does come back as it can be hard to totally clean out and often a sign of moisture/airflow issues. if the area is clean of mold, a note about applying the caulk; in commercial construction workers aren't allowed to use their finger to smooth it out, because supposedly it can create pockets of organic matter that mold can grow on. that said, if you did simply swapped caulks and you don't see mold growing, let me know (though i'm certain i've seen the above issue happen with lexel, a sashco product)
I let the sanding between coats slide but I might have to pull out the plastic sheets for what you said about my great great grandmother! 0:34 is silicone okay for SMALL cracks in foundation? if not what would you recommend? much love! cheers
generally polyurethane caulk is what's used for concrete as it ends up drying stiffer and possibly bonding better. you can find it in the concrete or roofing aisle in big box stores, search for concrete sealant.
QUESTION: What about rain gutters? Snow ripped off the end cap. How do I seal any leaks once the new one is on? The gutter is bent on another section, pulled out an inch from the roof! Do I replace it entirely? Thank you for answers!
Do you have an old house checklist for winter prep? My Dad passed away and we are left clueless. My Dad was constantly working on things and I am trying to figure it out to protect my Mom. 😳
Here’s the link to a video I filmed in my old farmhouse. I love that you are helping your mom. There’s a couple things you can do to help reduce heating costs. Covered in this video, hope it helps ua-cam.com/video/3FG0K9LpkXU/v-deo.htmlsi=if4rPXnkx9iscYnT
I have heard it’s not a good idea to use silicone on brick as you’ll never get it off and when you go to redo it the new stuff won’t stick. Any truth to that in your experience?
I had a mason company tell me to score out the caulk between the lentil and brick to allow for drainage so water doesnt freeze causing brick mortar cracking.
When it counts. Forget silicone, use asphalt caulking! Like mobile home siding, yeah, nearly impossible to get silicone to seal, asphalt seals it right now!
I have a double sliding glass door and one side, crumbled like a waterfall. Since glass is so expensive, I wondered if I could use plexiglass instead of glass. I read that 1/4” plexiglass should be used if it’s going to replace glass in a door. Glass is heavier than plexiglass I believe. I was told by a handy man that plexiglass is too heavy to be used instead of the glass and I should just board the door up with plywood if I didn’t want to spend the money for the glass. What are your thoughts?
I use tape before I caulk and then tool it for a much better look, then pull off the tape. Yes it will stick to brick and I can’t stand caulk smeared on a brick face.
My previous home owners installed satellite internet and screwed the satellites directly into the roof; through my shingles; what is the best way/product to seal up those holes
I thought silicone wasn't a good option for brick. When you see Jeff peeling off the old chaulking, he can pull at it and it comes off in a long piece. But with silicone, it just breaks apart and is a pain to remove and there is no way you are going to get it off of porus brick. Or is there an easy way to get old silicone off of brick?
Interesting that the video sponsor is GE because I use their silicone exclusively for caulking and an industrial business application. No failures. The cracked and stiff stuff Jeff is pulling off looks like some kind of latex caulking. Why would anyone ever use it??
Don't use silicone for exterior applications. When you get new windows or doors installed, do the installers use silicone? No. Use a thermoplastic sealant like Supra Expert by Mulco
Silicone is total crap. Use Vulkem Max...bonds much better even on wet surfaces, lasts much longer, has much greater movement capability, doesn't mold and you can paint it. No brainer.
I was just starting to caulk my windows. Thank you for posting this right when you did.
I’m glad I used the product you recommended. I just put new silicone on the outside windows a few days ago.
well done. just in time for winter!
Perfect timing. I'm just fixing a shoddily constructed door after Hurricane Milton got it wet and all the unsealed trim started to warp and mold.
Can’t paint over silicone. Pretty obvious to most people but would have been worth a mention.
Yes you can
@@Jfresh55 no you can't, even says so on the tube
I’m a caulker you definitely can’t paint over silicone unless you add special additive to the paint
@@DietBajaBlastshellac oil base primer and acrylic paint. Make sure it's dry and cleaned with diluted alcohol
@@Jfresh55 No you can't. 100% silicone will not hold paint.
I’ve had good experiences with the “Storm Blaster” stuff at Sherwin Williams for exterior use in Alberta. Handles -40 to +40 swings. Great stuff
@@craigfox2949 nugget of the day… -40°F = -40°C
I always use DAP Dynaflex Ultra in the black, gold or silver, and white tube. It spreads out nicely and does a great job in the winter/summer.
this was what i used but good reminder to check for fall
best to do an annual walk around of the whole property! The same product can fail at different places for many reasons. Cheers!
...I just replaced the rotted door sill at our side door entrance. The driveway was sunk near the door, so wayer would pool there. I fixed the driveway and slopped it away from the door. Then, I replaced the rotted sill with one i made out of concrete. Them fixed a crack in the foundation caused by the water pooling and seeping below the door.. installed a new, pre hung door. Ill be using the GE stuff. I had some old caulming kying around I was gonna use, but you convinced me otherwise. House was built in 1949.
All of that was born out of me wanting to remodel the basement stairs, lol.
Nice to see this house again. I like it because it's similar to mine. We even recently had to have someone come seal the boot for our sewer vent on the roof.
My only question is: What do you use for areas that are under the soil line? my water line intrusion lets a bit of water drip into the basement whenever we get a lot of rain. Eventually, I'm going to have to dig down and seal it from the outside, but I can rarely find a definitive idea of what so use for that.
I was alway taught to push the bead .. not drag it. This way you're pushing it deeper in to the joints while draging it simply leave a bead on the surface thus not adhering as well. Comments?
@@rosssimmons7813 run your finger on the backside of the head Kayden and that will push it in. Pushing the caulk bead never seem to get a good result for me, but 🤷♂️
Good product choice. In my research, the two best sealants that you can buy in normal stores are GE Supreme Silicone and OSI / LePage (Henkel) Quad Max. They are both significantly higher-performance than older, cheaper products. Quad Max is a modern descendant of polyurethane sealants, and it will stick well to almost anything, even if the surface has been prepared poorly. Supreme Silicone will stick slightly worse to some surfaces, but if it does stick, it will last longer than Quad Max over the decades.
What would you use for tub and shower surround?
Good choices, but even better 1. Tremco Dymonic and Dymonic FC - silane longer track , longer record than Quad Max. Quad max has a larger color palette for sure,a nd a bit easier to work with 2. For silicones, note that there is GE residential products taht they sold name to another company (and is sold at big boxes) and their true and outstanding highly specialized commercial silicone line 3. But really great silicone is precora 895, esp fr stucco (STO recommends)
Perfect timing for me!
So glad! Cheers!
Great information, thanks!
10:02 @home RenoVision diy
Jeff, you ever try DAP EXTREME STRETCH Acrylic Urethane Premium Elastomeric Sealant? It’s been my new fav for outdoor “caulk” to seal up those pesky areas. Its sticks to everything, and makes a great finished feathered sealed bead b/t concrete/stucco and “X” materials that’s used here in Florida. Been great and have had test piece gone thru 4 hurricanes that’s concrete/stucco/wood/aluminum (door/door concrete sill/aluminum door threshold/frame and stucco of house) and still holding today as new as installed 2 years ago now….
So far 👍🏻👍🏻
First like! Exactly the video I was looking for!
Glad it helped!
I'm a fan of Sashco products, they are hugely elastic (big stretch, Lexel, and Through the roof). Does not play well with going over Silicone products so prep work is needed to remove the previous residue.
Same. I love Lexel. More elastic, paintable and can be applied to wet surfaces.
I just prepped my entire exterior with big stretch and loved it. I did some with the GE stuff and it painted horrible.
@@nicholasbodnar7361 S.A.M.E.!!
Same here.
@@shensley011 that’s good to know. I just bought a case of Big stretch for a new siding repair project. How long did you need to let it setup before painting?
After using LEXEL I wont use anything else. Flexible, stretches, paintable. Its not cheap but has never failed me like silicone
Vulkem 116 Polyurethane. Sticks to everything (and I do mean EVERYTHING - its a f*cking mess to clean-up!!) and just so happens to come in a color that's a "close enough" match for my house paint.
Thank you so much for this video. I have a similar house (1964) in Montreal so it's great to have someone in a similar climate doing stuff like this. My caulking is absolutely due for a change but I've been told that it's best to wait for when it's warmer. Realistically, if we get a few dry days in November, would that be ok to put some silicone like you do, or should I wait for next year? I have similar flashing to yours, is its because the work might all be in vain by summer when it starts expanding?
The best DIY videos
I know you're showing caulking around the home but what about between slabs of concrete? My neighbor and I share a driveway. The grey fill between the slabs are literally coming out in pieces, weeds are getting in, maple seeds are getting stuck, seen some ants.
What to use to refill after doing a good clean out?? Cheers and thanks. As a single female homeowner you have helped me learn so much. Hopefully after you retire your son will continue your work.
I'd like to read an answer to this question also.
Agree!
use a backer rod to fill it up or polymeric sand. then fill it with a self leveling polyurethane sealant like Sika as long as it isn't on a slope, and sprinkle some sand on top to blend.
@@johnjingleheimersmith9259 thanks will try hopefully before it goes too cold or I'll wait until Spring.
My neighbour has caulked all the gaps in the sidewalk and the cracks in his driveway, it looks bad and catches the shovel while clearing snow. Don’t caulk between slabs of concrete.
Currently doing the same for my home inside and out, preparing for winter. Only 2yo but it’s clear the builder used inferior sealants. Now using a class 35 UV resistant sealant for exterior.
Fire video as always
Appreciate it. Cheers Arden!
little trick from a pro i met once take shims sand them round in a variety of widths soak them in a dish soap water mix for an hour or more use those shims instead of your thumb or finger. makes a way nicer bead. grab a rag to clean them off and dip them and leave them soaking in the dish soap and water mix when you aren't using them.
Trick I've seen is using various size shoe molds or quarter rounds. Have like a few different options, round off, bevel and chamfer the ends. I guess it also works similar to shims. A bit more sturdy as my shims split and crack easily.
Definitely seen the soaking and dish soap method
More work to do thanks.
Thanks!!
You bet!
The knob on your front door is installed upside down. The cuts of the key should face up when being inserted in the lock cylinder. Otherwise, the tumblers stick up from the bottom and all the dirt blowing around ends up jammed in the tumblers resulting in premature failure.
Dirt and dust isn't the only thing that messes with the tumblers. Water can get in there, too. If the tumblers are at the bottom of the lock water tays there and causes rust. If it turns cold the water will freeze.
Your house has the most amazing brickwork. Almost looks fake
The only thing I will add, too often one will just cut the tip and many times, too large of an opening. Make your opening specific to how much of a line thickness , that will work. Obviously, too little is no good, and too large, is a waste, and a problem to tool.
Finally, in my case, I take some sand paper, and lightly sand the cut on the outside edge, lightly curving it. You will find it hardly ever snags, and the tip runs easily along the line. Worked for me, the last 35 years. Your mileage may vary, practice helps, if you are doing it for the first time. Good video, later.
Another great video Jeff. I have a house a bit older than this one but with similar exterior finishings: the brick facade mixed with white aluminium siding.. I'm looking at all the re-sealing that needs to be done around the white aluminum siding and I'm starting to think it might be better to rip it off, fix and replace any water damaged wood inside, then re-wrap the sheating and go with cement fibreboard. It's a big investment but it seems like almost as much work as resealing aorund all that metal. What do ou think?
just in time for incoming rain season
absolutely. and rain ready in 30 minutes!
Great Video - what would you use to seal a chimney specifically between the orange square tile and the mortar that surrounds it? Thank you.
MasterSeal NP1 sell from Low’s work very good, not a lot people know
You can use the window cleaner spray with baby blue cap to spray on the Silicone after you put it down and then press and wipe the caulk without sticking.
Do you have a video showing hardwired under kitchen cabinets lighting install?
I like vinyl adhesive caulk
What do you plan on replacing your siding with? James Hardie material?
I used the ge supreme silicone for the kitchen sink and mold started building on the silicone. Going to redo it but should I even buy it again or something different
@@taniksambo1969 look at Sashco products like Lexel
Mold eats silicone, that is why you are having a problem. Take a look at Sashco products. They have products that mold will not eat.
@@williambunch1365 it was mild resistant for 30 years I think. And it was only 6 months into it. But I'll look for this sashco brand.
mold doesn't eat silicone. if it's growing on ge supreme, i doubt any other caulk will do better, it's pretty good. check for mold underneath, often mold from under/behind the caulk is the source. from experience, if there has been mold growth in the area, it often does come back as it can be hard to totally clean out and often a sign of moisture/airflow issues. if the area is clean of mold, a note about applying the caulk; in commercial construction workers aren't allowed to use their finger to smooth it out, because supposedly it can create pockets of organic matter that mold can grow on. that said, if you did simply swapped caulks and you don't see mold growing, let me know (though i'm certain i've seen the above issue happen with lexel, a sashco product)
I am installing security cameras and they have wiring going into the house, would you seal off the opening as you have shown here?
What about the hybrid polymer caulk? Some say it out performs silicone.
How is the silicone bonding to the aluminum given the oxidation that happens under the caulk? Does the aluminum not oxidize where the caulk is???
Sikaflex or Quad. IMO
Yes, Sika sticks the best. I did a test with other 3 popular brands, and Sika came out best.
many times you don't want to seal horizontal lower joints... otherwise water that will get behind things cant get out (bottom area of window sills)
I let the sanding between coats slide but I might have to pull out the plastic sheets for what you said about my great great grandmother! 0:34
is silicone okay for SMALL cracks in foundation? if not what would you recommend?
much love! cheers
generally polyurethane caulk is what's used for concrete as it ends up drying stiffer and possibly bonding better. you can find it in the concrete or roofing aisle in big box stores, search for concrete sealant.
@ Hey thanks! it’s much appreciated, I will do exactly that. much love
QUESTION: What about rain gutters? Snow ripped off the end cap. How do I seal any leaks once the new one is on? The gutter is bent on another section, pulled out an inch from the roof! Do I replace it entirely? Thank you for answers!
If this doesn’t hold up Sikaflex has solid products, I’ve used in Union commercial work.
OSI Quad Max is the only thing I use outside these days
I wish GE sold their products in the home storea here in Colombia. Hard to find good quality silicone here. Guess ill pay the shipping :(
Do you have an old house checklist for winter prep? My Dad passed away and we are left clueless. My Dad was constantly working on things and I am trying to figure it out to protect my Mom. 😳
Here’s the link to a video I filmed in my old farmhouse. I love that you are helping your mom. There’s a couple things you can do to help reduce heating costs. Covered in this video, hope it helps ua-cam.com/video/3FG0K9LpkXU/v-deo.htmlsi=if4rPXnkx9iscYnT
I have heard it’s not a good idea to use silicone on brick as you’ll never get it off and when you go to redo it the new stuff won’t stick. Any truth to that in your experience?
I had a mason company tell me to score out the caulk between the lentil and brick to allow for drainage so water doesnt freeze causing brick mortar cracking.
I always make sure to drain my lentils.
5:37 the longest pull tab that actually is working, lol
Hi quad mac or ge supreme silicone?
When it counts. Forget silicone, use asphalt caulking! Like mobile home siding, yeah, nearly impossible to get silicone to seal, asphalt seals it right now!
Timely for sure!
Cheers Michelle!
Would silicone work on a south facing exterior wall in Florida?
Yes, absolutely
Jeff, the beard and mustache flatter you. Keep 'em! And keep up the good work.
I know. I wish he had a brother
Nothing can beat Tremco Vulkem 116 Polyurethane Sealant
Will this keep mice out?
I have a double sliding glass door and one side, crumbled like a waterfall. Since glass is so expensive, I wondered if I could use plexiglass instead of glass. I read that 1/4” plexiglass should be used if it’s going to replace glass in a door. Glass is heavier than plexiglass I believe. I was told by a handy man that plexiglass is too heavy to be used instead of the glass and I should just board the door up with plywood if I didn’t want to spend the money for the glass. What are your thoughts?
I use tape before I caulk and then tool it for a much better look, then pull off the tape. Yes it will stick to brick and I can’t stand caulk smeared on a brick face.
My previous home owners installed satellite internet and screwed the satellites directly into the roof; through my shingles; what is the best way/product to seal up those holes
It's hard to get stuff to stick to silicone. How does it compare to butyl and polyurethane?
Jeff, you're weight loss is encouraging. You're looking great. How much are you down now?
Are you supposed to caulk The area where the siding meets the vertical trim on the corners of the house
Damn, my french house is just full of cracks lol. Best to ignore
MasterSeal NP1
I thought silicone wasn't a good option for brick. When you see Jeff peeling off the old chaulking, he can pull at it and it comes off in a long piece. But with silicone, it just breaks apart and is a pain to remove and there is no way you are going to get it off of porus brick. Or is there an easy way to get old silicone off of brick?
I was just wondering that...
Interesting that the video sponsor is GE because I use their silicone exclusively for caulking and an industrial business application. No failures. The cracked and stiff stuff Jeff is pulling off looks like some kind of latex caulking. Why would anyone ever use it??
Might have been the sealant they used in the 70s
Sponsor by GE and suggest to use GE, idk
Been using it for years. Cheers! I only sponsor products I love!
Because they make a great product.
Dude... Your "Forever Home" needs to be a ranch style on a single floor...
It's about time you get some sponsors. Manufacturers should have been banging down your door years ago!
Absolutely not. As soon as something is "sponsored by" my trust in the impartiality of the content is gone.
@@RCLapCar Jeff would never shill for anything he doesn't believe in.
The best silicone for outside is single component polyurethane
Urethane?
NP1
whens the rest of the live videos coming back
Silicone is easier to apply but polyurethane is definitely a better product and it’s paintable
WARNING TO THIS GUYS VIEWERS! DO NOT USE SILICONE ANYWHERE NEAR SURFACES THAT REQUIRE MAINTENANCE PAINTING.....EVER!!
Don't use silicone for exterior applications. When you get new windows or doors installed, do the installers use silicone? No. Use a thermoplastic sealant like Supra Expert by Mulco
Duck Tape is not gonna fix this especially when it rains. Watch this video
The old caulking worked long enough it's proven the new one not
👍👍🇨🇦✌️🇨🇦✌️🇨🇦✌️👍
Not gonna smooth that out? Lol
nope. it can get messy quick.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIYwould you recommend silicone for filling cracks on a foundation or would you recommend something else like siko flex
Hey Jef, you lost kilos 🙂
The best silicone to use outside is no silicone.
It’s called polyurethane. Same as silicon, but whole world better
24 hours too late 😂
Silicone is total crap. Use Vulkem Max...bonds much better even on wet surfaces, lasts much longer, has much greater movement capability, doesn't mold and you can paint it. No brainer.
This is not how you do it