All The Products Used (Sealant and Tools) - geni.us/rovKpAE DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Hi Scott, I've been watching and re-watching your driveway garage to driveway and sidewalk crack fixes cuz I've never done it before and I want to be confident in what I'm doing. Are the products you recommend ok to use in buffalo ny because of the bad winters, etc? Also, when using the self leveling stuff over the pool noodles ( backer rod), do you fill the crack up to the top or just below? You said regular play sand ok but man at home depot said silica sand like for making stone walkways,etc. ( I'm going to wait to get your answer first before I get anything). I have many trouble spots to fix. Tia for answering me! I'm going to have to keep re-watching 😂 have a great day!
@@kellyr6274 Hey Kelly, I would fill the crack up to just below the surrounding concrete. My favorite sealant is the Tremco 45 SSL but the Sika Self-Leveling is good stuff as long as the crack has no slope. You can use pretty much any sand you want as you are just filling up the voids under the concrete. Just start on a crack that is less visible to get a little practice. Best of luck, you got this 👊
@@EverydayHomeRepairs thank you Scott so much for answering, I didn't have faith in anything the man at HD was saying 😂! I'm going to start by ordering through your list of supplies. But I'm still going to keep re-watching 😂 and will probably watch while I'm attempting this feat😂 thanks for the confidence and support, and your great step by step videos for this inexperienced DIY'er 😬🤞. You know I'm going to bother you again to tell you how it goes! Thanks again and have a wonderful day
Hey Scott Looking back at your project from last year, it looks like the filler has settled in about a 1/4 inch below surface level. Is that how it's supposed to look?
SEKA all the way.used it 5 years ago for sealing where driveway pulled away slightly from house foundation causing water to enter lower stairway. DRY 5 YEARS NOW👍
2:17 just a small safety tip I learned in the military, never have any part of your body in line with the plane of the blade on the grinder. Having the guard on is obviously a must, but your knee, leg, and feet were in danger. I never trust the guard on it's own, and assume the blade is effectively a grenade with a shrapnel plane. Just keeping your entire body out of plane with the blade is pretty easy to do and a good habit to get into.
Good tip thanks. I've started doing grinding more and started getting into welding and since that is kind of the rule in woodworking which I'm much more comfortable with, makes perfect sense using these tools too.
Sounds like a good idea to not get an airplane window seat across from the propeller. Exploding jet engine Vanes could be a problem too. Hard to tell if Boeing has a plugged doorway thats not bolted down properly.
Great intro and explanation of how to do this Scott. I did this on a number of client concrete patio / walkway / driveways in the early 2000's through 20-teens. The first ones from 20 years ago are still holding up! Like other forms of sealing - painting or other forms of calking, it is 80% prep. The most important thing is to follow the directions on whatever product you use! I think the second or possibly most important part of this procedure is to know WHY the crack formed. Many times there is poor drainage so there is soil erosion and frost cycles.. Is this crack going to continue or new ones going to form? Easy to solve when there is a downspout next to / near the concrete - get that water further away, re-route the downspouts, install a french drain if needed to help lower the after-rain water table. Where I have done this the crack stopped widening, and the sealant has held up for in upwards of 20 years!
I'm going to give you all a tip on product use. The Quikcrete product in the bottle will dry, hard and will pull away from even properly prepped concrete, when it moves seasonally. The other products do about the same and I've had failures at one or two years with all but the product I'm about to tell you about. Don't laugh though. Clean and prep your concrete , you can even carefully use a wire brush, or pressure wash the cracked area a couple days before the repair, make sure it's dry. Backer rod when used properly, needs to be down in the crack, not just below the surface, remember the concrete is cracked ALL the way through the thickness, so get some product in there to stabilize the crack, not just a dribble at the top. My secret concrete crack filler product is... Grey Flex Seal ! Yep, the stuff from T.V. I have used a large hobby syringe to draw the liquid Flex Seal from the Pint, or Quart can and just let it flow into the crack. It will self level very well. The difference with using Flex Seal is, it is Liquid Rubber, so when the crack joint moves, and it will, the Flex Seal will flex, and not pull away like the other products do. Flex Seal sticks to the clean Concrete really well. And it Stays Flexible for years. I repaired my first driveway that was full of cracks about 9 years ago, and it is still as good today as the day I finished. You can sprinkle some sand in the Flex Seal right when you put it in the crack, to help blend it in if you want too. I installed a new sidewalk at our new home last year, and used the Flex Seal on the Sidewalk Expansion cuts, to keep water out, and it looks beautiful. No, my name isn't Phil Swift, and I do not work for the Flex Seal Company in any way ...
Thanks for taking time to post this advice about using a more flexible sealant for concrete repairs, one small earthquake ruined my large concrete patio that was pristine for over fifty years . Looking forward to this fix , thanks again
I like this idea. Went out and bought some flex seal and was going to use backer rod to fill space up down in the crack. Assume no issue with adherence? Thanks!
I have used mason sand in the crack, it fills the holes that allows the sealant to leak thru. Just use a leaf blower to blow out the sand to the proper depth.
I've repaired cracks like this myself. I enlarge tiny cracks, blow out loose material, blast the crack with water hose or pump sprayer, let it dry using blower, fill crack with dry mortor,level it, then wet it with a pump sprayer, tool the surface to compact it. Works every time.
Disabled and not sound financially. It's good to see ppl trying to help. Some of us are beyond being able to anymore. Used to be so strong and independent. It makes ne feel ashamed.
I’ve used this method on my driveway. Asphalt. After a few years the cracks start to expand more and they open up.. leaving you with another crack next to your sealant. I believe one step id recommend to prevent this is to bind the sealant to each side of the crack, so smooth it out with a putty knife for example, so it isn’t just sitting in the crack but also is able to bind to each side. If you don’t then you’ll end up with my issue..
I don't see anywhere that states this product is formulated to work on asphalt. It's possible the petroleum in the blacktop could inhibit the cure of the sealant. Always best to use products specifically formulated for your substrate.
@@demonovationable it was actually a more superior product. Either way I’ve used this on concrete walkways and experienced similar results after a couple of years.
The reason thick elastomeric joints fail is not because they are too thick to cure properly, but the real explanation isn't easy. The bigger something is, the more distance it moves when it expands and contracts at its edges. And adding depth to a 3D space increases its volume more than you intuitively think because volume is all 3 dimensions multiplied together. The result is like a muscle that has gotten so big that it can rip itself from the bone. Since the adhesion of the sealant doesn't change when you add more, one temperature cycle can simply make the sealant rip itself loose. Public and industry resources about sealant application explain this by placing hard limits on joint sizes, so installers can do their work properly without knowing why. The documentation for the various DOW and Henkel sealants I've used have recommended max joint sizes in the neighborhood of 1", usually less. So pouring a bottle of sealant into a concrete joint is self-defeating, just like this video says.
One IMPORTANT missing bit of information. Aside from a clean and sound surface, the backer rod must be used such that it creates a thinner middle part of the sealant. This gives it a weak point that allows for stretching, and the thicker sides allow for stronger relative adhesion to the sides of the crack. You're welcome.
Good instructional video. But I would guess very few home owners would have the special tools that you use for this or would buy them for one small project. I would think most would do what I am going to do; sweep the crack with a broom and use the bottled filler.
Good things first. Silkaflex is a great product, don’t use on any slopes. I have not used the Tremco, nice to know it will do a slight slope. Bad part. The plastic bottle I have tried to use. The issues I had were, shaking it does nothing. There’s a lot that settles in the bottom that will never loosen with shaking. I have tried a spade drill with the point and corners ground off. This works well however there always seems to be lumps in it. It does not come out of the bottle very well when squeezing. Good information on the video 👍
I shook my plastic bottle like crazy. Since I had never used the product before, I thought it was supposed to be that thin. Later on, when I tried to seal another crack, the bottle was obviously still pretty full but NOTHING came out. I cut the bottle open and used a putty knife to trowel the product into the crack. So far it’s been okay. In the future I will use any other product.
Thanks for the update on the bigger crack as well as this one - I remember the older video I watched a year or two ago - it's great to see how it held up - that's really what matters. Cheers
My method might be overkill but I would grab a bag of Cemetall (very inexpensive) and put it into the crack - just the dry powder, no water. Fill the crack with it but leave about an inch from the top of the crack. Then, mix a batch of Cementall with water to make a watery slurry. Pour that into the crack above the dry powder but again, don't fill the crack all the way. Leave yourself about 1/2" to 1/4" from the top of the crack. Let that dry for 24-48hrs. Finally, use the Sika or Tremco to finish it off.
@@akbychoice The crack appeared away from the control joint in this particular video. This tells me the base (below the concrete pad) failed or eroded away. The CementAll is not meant to provide flexibility but to give strength to the base. The Sika or Tremco is the flexible component of this repair. Once a crack appears, it's not IF it will fail again but WHEN it will fail again.
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge! Those of us without anyone to teach us this stuff truly appreciate what you add to the comments sections.
Was not planning on getting a new driveway. One of my students mentioned your videos. I m Glas Isaw this video. It is one of my future project. Thank you!
Instead of backer rod, I use fine sand as it conforms to any width. Then I vacuum again to adjust the elevation of the sand surface. One downside is the possibility of a large void beneath the crack, which may require a lot of sand to fill. In that case, combining backer rod (or other material) to create a bridge with the sand on top. Then I seal with concrete epoxy instead of common sealants.
Nice vid, thanks! I would not use a graphite pencil to pack the backerod in as any graphite that gets on the concrete sides of the crack will affect the bond with the concrete. In fact, to improve adhesion I have used a toothbrush and alcohol to literally clean the sides of the crack prior to packing the rod in. I've also used play sand instead of backer rod for wide cracks or those that have irregular widths. Again, Thanks for the EDU!
I used the Quickcrete product. It worked OK but I didn't do the amount of prep in the video. It poured out OK but it was a bit slow which is probably best.
Hmm, I hate getting lost in the "rabbit hole"! Every time I think I am ready to proceed on my DIY project(s) another monkey is thrown in the wrench. I just wish I could find honest contractors and pay them fair price. Thank you for sharing and providing good information.
This video goes kinda overboard. My driveway is fine including the three year old sealants done by my tenant DIY'er. He just stuck Ardex Feather Finish in the cracks. The colour doesn't match too well but it's solid. The temp range here is moderate: 15 degrees min to 100 degrees max so ymmv
Use silica sand instead of backer rod, v shape diamond blade called crack chaser instead of regular 90 degrees blade and epoxy two component sealer for best result.
I had the same issues, and your video would have made mine look better when I tried to repair it a few years back. I finally broke down and just replaced my concrete. You did a nice job with what you got!
What you want to do (and he is doing it) is get the correct "shape factor." If you go too deep the adhesive capacity of the sealant can't hold on to the sides. It’s sort of like a rubber band if the shape is deep and narrow there is a lot of stress on the edges, while if its shallow and wide there is less adhesive adhesion stress. I just watched it fast to see if he would give the explanation of why you do this prep.
I have been a professional caulker for over 45 years and have testified as an expert witness in lawsuits. You are 100% correct👍 and this ( other than properly prepping the bonding surface) us probably THE most important point
I was just looking at your previous video because it was on my home page and I hadn't seen it before, despite full notifications ("All"). I scrolled back in my notifications to everything between "11 days ago" and "13 days ago", and it was missing. Clicked your channel, saw this video! No notification either... dammit UA-cam!
Great video. I learned alot, and thank you! With this method, you seem to prevent further deterioration (which is good). Is there a way to blend the colors afterward, so that the semi-circular crack is much less visible?
As a licensed structural engineer for 30 years, I must tell you that to correct a damaged concrete structure, you must first KNOW what caused the damage !! Flexure or vertical movement of the structure can't be corrected by addressing the cosmetics ! 🤔
I usually run a grinder wheel the length of the crack. followed by a wire reel. to make sure the sealant can get into it, and then I covered with sand for two reasons. the first is the blend in the second is the the sand provides protection for the polymer sealant
Your videos are very informative and at the cheapest way to fix it. I love it. Please upload any video on concrete wall leaks in basement and how to fix it. Thanks
Good job man I used to do a lot of crack filling and I remember seeing other Crews never routed out the cracks same thing with patching potholes or cracks in concrete prep the foundation first
I've never used or even seen such a complicated procedure, here in Europe most people will just pressure-wash the crack and fill it with fresh concrete made with fine sand instead of normal aggregate. For very fine cracks you can use "cement milk" instead, that's just cement powder mixed with water to the consistency of sour cream to penetrate deep enough in the narrow gap. The only catch is that you need to keep the area wet for the next couple of days so it cures slowly, but that's as easy as spraying it with a garden hose every few hours.
Another thing I should have added is because of the sink hole problems and the fact that big slabs are always poured with drainage considered (not level,)we almost never use self leveling but we use SSL or Slope grade sealants, we tool it very quickly knowing the tool marks will flow out( tooling the joint to improve adhesion us also the hallmark of a professional )
That wide repair happened right next to a mock joint, which is useless. The contractor probably thought that if it were to crack, putting the groove would encourage it to crack there. Wrong! Either put a true expansion joint or none at all.
Your thoughts or experience, please, using a "V-Groove" crack chaser, on a 4 1/2 in grinder, instead of the straight diamond blade you show at roughly 2:15. Thanks for the vid -- helpful.
Most of us ordinary mortals don't have diamond-encrusted grinding tools. So thanks for showing us what better-equipped people would do, but we'll just have to continue muddling along as best we can.
Tools from Harbor Freight for homemakers ... you will use more than you think. Live better, save in long run, tools cheaper than more goop & goo in repeat-ugly jury-rigging. I' 77 yr old female, use my grinder regularly keeping my 1947 art studio a workable space.
Obviously I am not sure where you live in the world but in the UK a new cheap grinder can be purchased for £15 about 20$ US and a cheaper diamond disk £2 to £4. A very useful tool although treat it with caution as they're one of the tools most commonly associated with visits to accident and emergency.
Is this repair viable for cold winter climates? You carved out the crack and only put the backer rod in 1/4". Wouldn't it be possible to get water behind the backer rod, freeze and blow out the crack making a larger repair?
No, the water drains into the soil below. The crack isn't caused by water, exactly; soil shifting under the slab causes the crack, and water can contribute to the soil shifting. But water didn't blow out the crack.
Yeah, it would work for just sealing. If you wanted to do flooring over the concrete in the future I would use epoxy like in this video ua-cam.com/video/bXDYgxM-PTc/v-deo.html 👍
Scott. Thanks for the videos. I have a Concrete backyard in New Orleans La, I have repaired several cracks with the Sika product,, Gray Formula. The Concrete was stained a mid to light green and has faded where the area closet to my house was covered by an aluminum cover. The rest of the concrete, whir a majority of the cracks were fixed, was exposed to weather for the last 15 plus years. I have repainted the house with a light tan paint and have beechwood brown roof and am contemplating restraining the concrete with some shade of blight brown or tan. First, I want to make the area where the cracks were respired less visible before possibly applying some form of covering paint across the entire concrete area before appoint any brown stain or paint. Can you provide any ideas?tips on making the entire area uniform in appearance before the final steps of my project? Thanks, Greg W
Visually, and this could be the video, I think your other repairs have blended much better. Will this product become more mottled, and thus blend better, over time? I wonder what additional methods the sealant could accept. It's funny, the larger cracks seem easier to address. Your pool noodle trick was excellent by the way. Found yourself the super sized backer rod!
On cracks less than 1/2" I would NOT use a sealant. Use a structural urethane adhesive with sand. It will actually bond the broken concrete and reduce the movement of the concrete slab....
I don't see why this wouldn't work on thinner cracks, but it seems like it would get finnicky. I haven't done this before, but I'd advise you to just try with a small strip and see how well it turns out. For selfish reasons of course. If you come back angry, I know it didn't work :P Jokes aside, I believe the backer rod will do its job even if it isn't in one piece. Should even work when sliced length wise to make it fit into the crack, and I believe the repair will work just fine with enough patience. This is not based upon experience however
What if the driveway has a slight slope for drainage? The Sikaflex Self Leveling Sealant says not to use it on a sloped driveway. Mine isn't a drastic slope but I understand that the caulk may not lay flat. I wish the Tremco Vulkem 45 SSL was available in the smaller, less bulky, tube.
The end result has a bead above the concrete. If I heard you correctly you said you were in Illinois. That bead wouldn't survive the first snow, your snow shovel would tear that right up. Can't you finish the job with a level fill?
People work outdoors during warm weather when concrete is expanded, but the problem is during the winter concrete shrinks in cold weather and the cracks reappear.
2:00 Not a bad idea too, to grind-out that Crack into an upside down V shape; like this / \. This way the Filler etc. is locked in, and less likely to pop out.
Would you do this to cracks if you were then going use one of those concrete resurfacing coats over your driveway - the stuff that goes on 1/8" thick? Or would you maybe just use the backer rod material and let the concrete coating fill in the cracks?
I have many cracks like this where the sidewalks or driveway meet. There is partial black material that appears to be used to fill the gap but is old and doesn’t completely seal the crack. Can I use this method in place of that old black material?
I’d really like to to see this particular sealing job after it dries. It seems like you’re way too full in the cracks, creating a raised hump that will be a problem or look unsightly.
The surface looks etched from weather. Should the driveway be resurfaced with cement slurry, (more watery cement) on a power washed surface? The poly products after time look; flakey and peal off or look foreign laying on surface.
Other videos I've seen using 45 SSL recommend a primer to help with adhesion, but you don't use it with pretty good results. Have you tried priming in the past and find it unnecessary?
Scott thank you so much for sharing your insights and knowledge. You do such a great job at explaining to a novice like me. Look forward to further videos!
Looking to put this on my concrete basement floor. With the furnace, will this have any affect with off gassing or anything with the pilot flame? Rather not blow up my house
I have a crack similar to this one on my concrete roof, I will be opening it up a bit with the angle grinder, will this method work to seal it? The crack is letting water in the form of drops to my living room,I identified the crack while removing the old roof coating i had
My 12 yr old drive has some kind of 1/2” solid composite backer strips - what is this stuff? It’s been lifting over the last few years in several places to the point where its causing issues with my snowblower (hitting the lifting edges). I’ve used a Japanese counter top saw to cut-level it where its lifting. I live in Michigan where snow and ice are common each winter. What should I do?😊
I imagine it is 4" deep expansion joint www.homedepot.com/p/Quikrete-1-2-in-x-4-in-x-5-ft-2-lb-Expansion-Joint-691703/100318479 I would pull it out and then do a similar process as this to put down sealant.
Once concrete cracks anything you do to a crack is just a bandaid. If you want to fix it correctly, remove the old concrete and replace it with reinforced concrete.
You are an excellent instructor! You explain everything so well and in depth. Providing a link to products used is a bonus. Even if one doesn't buy from Amazon or use the exact brand it is so helpful to know.
Scott I am a professional caulker that often comments on your caulking videos because, while not perfect you do far better than most. The only thing I will add to this video is DO NOT use quickcrete or any other cheap sealants, including DAP these are consumer products that professionals will never use.( quickcrete makes many VERY good concrete related products, but sealants are not one) Both Sika and Tremco/ Vulkem make industrial sealants that are used in the professional sealant industry world wide. And Don’t use sand. While the way you use it does minimize the negative affect it does shorten the life span. And finally, I know you have no other reference, ( you haven’t been installing sealants for decades) but a 2 year update does not have the meaning you think it has. Unless it has failed. Even totally botched installation of sealant very often last 5+ years.( not saying you “ botched” the installation)the true test of quality installation doesn’t start for 15-20 years( again I understand you don’t have this ability at this time.) One other “ pro” tip( I hate that term because on UA-cam almost 100% of the time it is followed by something a true pro in the USA will never do, 😊like using soapy water)try to go to whatever manufacturer you choose “ industrial/ commercial “ website and try to find the proper primer for that product. Not usually marketed to consumers, but the first thing a tech dept will ask a “ professional caulking company” is, “ did you use primer” you can try messaging their tech department.
Good stuff, I really appreciate the feedback. I have been a bit concerned the sand would impact the life of the sealant, thanks for the confirmation. I will take a look for the proper primer for the next job. Keep the comments coming 🙌
@@EverydayHomeRepairs the primer thing might be difficult for the consumer. But on industrial ( and some consumer) websites there will be verbiage such as ‘ primerless on most substrates” but on commercial/ industrial tech manuals it always says something to the affect of “ test adhesion” because this is not practical ( due to time restraints,) we always prime. And also almost all say “ prime on submerged joints” and technically during winter rains horizontal( deck) joints are submerged. ( I have represented both manufacturers and contractors in court so I understand the technicalities) don’t mean to get technical just trying to give you my professional insights. And not just typical “ professional insights” when I was young ( actually to young to technically be working in the industry ) I helped my dad working for a group of architects and lawyers representing property owners in lawsuits due to water infiltration. I have more knowledge on this subject than most. It was my dad’s job to provide proof of why there there were leaks. I was just along for the ride at that point, but learned a lot about sealant failure. This was in the late 70’s since then I have been considered an expert in this field. Providing consultation for sone if the biggest contractors in the nation including Swinerton,Clark, DPR and McCarthy
lol. i didn't clean out the crack, no prep whatsoever and filled in a crack the whole width of my driveway with silicone sealant . never opened again. that was 19 years ago
All The Products Used (Sealant and Tools) - geni.us/rovKpAE
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Hi Scott, I've been watching and re-watching your driveway garage to driveway and sidewalk crack fixes cuz I've never done it before and I want to be confident in what I'm doing. Are the products you recommend ok to use in buffalo ny because of the bad winters, etc? Also, when using the self leveling stuff over the pool noodles ( backer rod), do you fill the crack up to the top or just below? You said regular play sand ok but man at home depot said silica sand like for making stone walkways,etc. ( I'm going to wait to get your answer first before I get anything). I have many trouble spots to fix. Tia for answering me! I'm going to have to keep re-watching 😂 have a great day!
@@kellyr6274 Hey Kelly, I would fill the crack up to just below the surrounding concrete. My favorite sealant is the Tremco 45 SSL but the Sika Self-Leveling is good stuff as long as the crack has no slope. You can use pretty much any sand you want as you are just filling up the voids under the concrete. Just start on a crack that is less visible to get a little practice. Best of luck, you got this 👊
@@EverydayHomeRepairs thank you Scott so much for answering, I didn't have faith in anything the man at HD was saying 😂! I'm going to start by ordering through your list of supplies. But I'm still going to keep re-watching 😂 and will probably watch while I'm attempting this feat😂 thanks for the confidence and support, and your great step by step videos for this inexperienced DIY'er 😬🤞. You know I'm going to bother you again to tell you how it goes! Thanks again and have a wonderful day
Well @@kellyr6274
Hey Scott
Looking back at your project from last year, it looks like the filler has settled in about a 1/4 inch below surface level. Is that how it's supposed to look?
SEKA all the way.used it 5 years ago for sealing where driveway pulled away slightly from house foundation causing water to enter lower stairway. DRY 5 YEARS NOW👍
it's SIKA actually
2:17 just a small safety tip I learned in the military, never have any part of your body in line with the plane of the blade on the grinder. Having the guard on is obviously a must, but your knee, leg, and feet were in danger. I never trust the guard on it's own, and assume the blade is effectively a grenade with a shrapnel plane. Just keeping your entire body out of plane with the blade is pretty easy to do and a good habit to get into.
Same thing with a chainsaw!
Good tip thanks. I've started doing grinding more and started getting into welding and since that is kind of the rule in woodworking which I'm much more comfortable with, makes perfect sense using these tools too.
Thanks
Sounds like a good idea to not get an airplane window seat across from the propeller.
Exploding jet engine Vanes could be a problem too.
Hard to tell if Boeing has a plugged doorway thats not bolted down properly.
Yeah, that guy thinks that he can buy new knees from Home Depot on Black Friday sale.
Great intro and explanation of how to do this Scott. I did this on a number of client concrete patio / walkway / driveways in the early 2000's through 20-teens. The first ones from 20 years ago are still holding up! Like other forms of sealing - painting or other forms of calking, it is 80% prep. The most important thing is to follow the directions on whatever product you use!
I think the second or possibly most important part of this procedure is to know WHY the crack formed. Many times there is poor drainage so there is soil erosion and frost cycles.. Is this crack going to continue or new ones going to form? Easy to solve when there is a downspout next to / near the concrete - get that water further away, re-route the downspouts, install a french drain if needed to help lower the after-rain water table. Where I have done this the crack stopped widening, and the sealant has held up for in upwards of 20 years!
I'm going to give you all a tip on product use. The Quikcrete product in the bottle will dry, hard and will pull away from even properly prepped concrete, when it moves seasonally. The other products do about the same and I've had failures at one or two years with all but the product I'm about to tell you about. Don't laugh though. Clean and prep your concrete , you can even carefully use a wire brush, or pressure wash the cracked area a couple days before the repair, make sure it's dry. Backer rod when used properly, needs to be down in the crack, not just below the surface, remember the concrete is cracked ALL the way through the thickness, so get some product in there to stabilize the crack, not just a dribble at the top.
My secret concrete crack filler product is... Grey Flex Seal ! Yep, the stuff from T.V. I have used a large hobby syringe to draw the liquid Flex Seal from the Pint, or Quart can and just let it flow into the crack. It will self level very well. The difference with using Flex Seal is, it is Liquid Rubber, so when the crack joint moves, and it will, the Flex Seal will flex, and not pull away like the other products do. Flex Seal sticks to the clean Concrete really well. And it Stays Flexible for years.
I repaired my first driveway that was full of cracks about 9 years ago, and it is still as good today as the day I finished. You can sprinkle some sand in the Flex Seal right when you put it in the crack, to help blend it in if you want too.
I installed a new sidewalk at our new home last year, and used the Flex Seal on the Sidewalk Expansion cuts, to keep water out, and it looks beautiful.
No, my name isn't Phil Swift, and I do not work for the Flex Seal Company in any way ...
That is what I was telling them NASA 🚀 guys to use, to stop the leaks on the launch pad ..Flex Seal 🤣🤣
You got it right. I’ve been doing crack repair for years with success. Pressure wash, dry, and put backer rod deep, but I use Sika flex 6:52
What climate are your repairs in?
Thanks for taking time to post this advice about using a more flexible sealant for concrete repairs, one small earthquake ruined my large concrete patio that was pristine for over fifty years .
Looking forward to this fix , thanks again
I like this idea. Went out and bought some flex seal and was going to use backer rod to fill space up down in the crack. Assume no issue with adherence? Thanks!
I have used mason sand in the crack, it fills the holes that allows the sealant to leak thru. Just use a leaf blower to blow out the sand to the proper depth.
FYI, Quikrete has concrete crack sealers in tubes as well. Just as easy to find at Home Depot like Sika with great results.
right im a mechanic no concrete experience got a few tubes for my caulk gun and its there holds up nice and cheap
I've repaired cracks like this myself. I enlarge tiny cracks, blow out loose material, blast the crack with water hose or pump sprayer, let it dry using blower, fill crack with dry mortor,level it, then wet it with a pump sprayer, tool the surface to compact it. Works every time.
I'm a single, senior, female - can't afford to hire someone to repair driveway and sidewalk cracks - going to try your method - thank you!
Please make a video!
Disabled and not sound financially. It's good to see ppl trying to help. Some of us are beyond being able to anymore. Used to be so strong and independent. It makes ne feel ashamed.
@@sira451 how'd it go?
Thanks , I'll try that , dry mortar and spray it wet . Thanks a lot. 👍😸
I’ve used this method on my driveway. Asphalt. After a few years the cracks start to expand more and they open up.. leaving you with another crack next to your sealant. I believe one step id recommend to prevent this is to bind the sealant to each side of the crack, so smooth it out with a putty knife for example, so it isn’t just sitting in the crack but also is able to bind to each side. If you don’t then you’ll end up with my issue..
I don't see anywhere that states this product is formulated to work on asphalt. It's possible the petroleum in the blacktop could inhibit the cure of the sealant. Always best to use products specifically formulated for your substrate.
@@demonovationable it was actually a more superior product. Either way I’ve used this on concrete walkways and experienced similar results after a couple of years.
That's a bummer.
The reason thick elastomeric joints fail is not because they are too thick to cure properly, but the real explanation isn't easy. The bigger something is, the more distance it moves when it expands and contracts at its edges. And adding depth to a 3D space increases its volume more than you intuitively think because volume is all 3 dimensions multiplied together. The result is like a muscle that has gotten so big that it can rip itself from the bone. Since the adhesion of the sealant doesn't change when you add more, one temperature cycle can simply make the sealant rip itself loose. Public and industry resources about sealant application explain this by placing hard limits on joint sizes, so installers can do their work properly without knowing why. The documentation for the various DOW and Henkel sealants I've used have recommended max joint sizes in the neighborhood of 1", usually less. So pouring a bottle of sealant into a concrete joint is self-defeating, just like this video says.
One IMPORTANT missing bit of information. Aside from a clean and sound surface, the backer rod must be used such that it creates a thinner middle part of the sealant. This gives it a weak point that allows for stretching, and the thicker sides allow for stronger relative adhesion to the sides of the crack. You're welcome.
Good instructional video. But I would guess very few home owners would have the special tools that you use for this or would buy them for one small project. I would think most would do what I am going to do; sweep the crack with a broom and use the bottled filler.
Good things first. Silkaflex is a great product, don’t use on any slopes. I have not used the Tremco, nice to know it will do a slight slope.
Bad part. The plastic bottle I have tried to use. The issues I had were, shaking it does nothing. There’s a lot that settles in the bottom that will never loosen with shaking. I have tried a spade drill with the point and corners ground off. This works well however there always seems to be lumps in it. It does not come out of the bottle very well when squeezing.
Good information on the video 👍
I shook my plastic bottle like crazy. Since I had never used the product before, I thought it was supposed to be that thin. Later on, when I tried to seal another crack, the bottle was obviously still pretty full but NOTHING came out. I cut the bottle open and used a putty knife to trowel the product into the crack. So far it’s been okay.
In the future I will use any other product.
Thanks for the update on the bigger crack as well as this one - I remember the older video I watched a year or two ago - it's great to see how it held up - that's really what matters. Cheers
That repair looked utterly dreadful!
Good video. I do have some cracks in my concrete that I should fix but never really knew how to. This video helps. Thank you.
My method might be overkill but I would grab a bag of Cemetall (very inexpensive) and put it into the crack - just the dry powder, no water. Fill the crack with it but leave about an inch from the top of the crack. Then, mix a batch of Cementall with water to make a watery slurry. Pour that into the crack above the dry powder but again, don't fill the crack all the way. Leave yourself about 1/2" to 1/4" from the top of the crack. Let that dry for 24-48hrs. Finally, use the Sika or Tremco to finish it off.
If it isn’t flexible, any expansion might crack that product. This is why expansion joints are needed to prevent buckling.
@@akbychoice The crack appeared away from the control joint in this particular video. This tells me the base (below the concrete pad) failed or eroded away. The CementAll is not meant to provide flexibility but to give strength to the base. The Sika or Tremco is the flexible component of this repair. Once a crack appears, it's not IF it will fail again but WHEN it will fail again.
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge! Those of us without anyone to teach us this stuff truly appreciate what you add to the comments sections.
Was not planning on getting a new driveway. One of my students mentioned your videos. I m Glas Isaw this video. It is one of my future project. Thank you!
Instead of backer rod, I use fine sand as it conforms to any width. Then I vacuum again to adjust the elevation of the sand surface. One downside is the possibility of a large void beneath the crack, which may require a lot of sand to fill. In that case, combining backer rod (or other material) to create a bridge with the sand on top.
Then I seal with concrete epoxy instead of common sealants.
Nice vid, thanks! I would not use a graphite pencil to pack the backerod in as any graphite that gets on the concrete sides of the crack will affect the bond with the concrete. In fact, to improve adhesion I have used a toothbrush and alcohol to literally clean the sides of the crack prior to packing the rod in. I've also used play sand instead of backer rod for wide cracks or those that have irregular widths. Again, Thanks for the EDU!
Same here re the sand. I used sand and then brush out any portion too high.
I used the Quickcrete product. It worked OK but I didn't do the amount of prep in the video. It poured out OK but it was a bit slow which is probably best.
Great info. I need to re-do the cracks in my patio now that I know the right way to do it.! Thank you
Hmm, I hate getting lost in the "rabbit hole"! Every time I think I am ready to proceed on my DIY project(s) another monkey is thrown in the wrench. I just wish I could find honest contractors and pay them fair price. Thank you for sharing and providing good information.
Same! LOL
This video goes kinda overboard. My driveway is fine including the three year old sealants done by my tenant DIY'er. He just stuck Ardex Feather Finish in the cracks. The colour doesn't match too well but it's solid. The temp range here is moderate: 15 degrees min to 100 degrees max so ymmv
Contractors in town I live in are jokes . They hang around the bar lying to each other.
Use silica sand instead of backer rod, v shape diamond blade called crack chaser instead of regular 90 degrees blade and epoxy two component sealer for best result.
I had the same issues, and your video would have made mine look better when I tried to repair it a few years back. I finally broke down and just replaced my concrete. You did a nice job with what you got!
Thanks!
I love the sand trick to make it blend much better 😊🛠️🛠️
👊
If you happen to have a piece of the original concrete you removed from the crack, clean it and pulverize it. Sprinkle that on it…it’s the same color!
@@r.erf.90 I love this idea 👍🏼😎🛠️
What you want to do (and he is doing it) is get the correct "shape factor." If you go too deep the adhesive capacity of the sealant can't hold on to the sides. It’s sort of like a rubber band if the shape is deep and narrow there is a lot of stress on the edges, while if its shallow and wide there is less adhesive adhesion stress. I just watched it fast to see if he would give the explanation of why you do this prep.
I have been a professional caulker for over 45 years and have testified as an expert witness in lawsuits. You are 100% correct👍 and this ( other than properly prepping the bonding surface) us probably THE most important point
I was just looking at your previous video because it was on my home page and I hadn't seen it before, despite full notifications ("All"). I scrolled back in my notifications to everything between "11 days ago" and "13 days ago", and it was missing. Clicked your channel, saw this video! No notification either... dammit UA-cam!
Yeah, YT can be a bit hard to understand. Thanks for the feedback!
I remember that old job you did and the one year mark looks terrible. It's totally sunken in and not leveled.
Great video. I learned alot, and thank you!
With this method, you seem to prevent further deterioration (which is good).
Is there a way to blend the colors afterward, so that the semi-circular crack is much less visible?
As a licensed structural engineer for 30 years, I must tell you that to correct a damaged concrete structure, you must first KNOW what caused the damage !! Flexure or vertical movement of the structure can't be corrected by addressing the cosmetics ! 🤔
always measure your crack before pushing your rod in
Teehee
ARTYSM7 needs his crack measured. Who will come over?
@@twinentryturbo you wanna come in my crack?
would you recommend running your finger over the bead so it can get flattened out...great video. Thanks
Yes
With a glove
Sikaflex that you mention, comes in two types, for vertical and for horizontal application. Home Depot and Lowes carry both.
I usually run a grinder wheel the length of the crack. followed by a wire reel.
to make sure the sealant can get into it, and then I covered with sand for two reasons.
the first is the blend in
the second is the the sand provides protection for the polymer sealant
Make sure you put the KY jelly in the crack..... First smooth soft transition
Your videos are very informative and at the cheapest way to fix it. I love it.
Please upload any video on concrete wall leaks in basement and how to fix it. Thanks
Good job man I used to do a lot of crack filling and I remember seeing other Crews never routed out the cracks same thing with patching potholes or cracks in concrete prep the foundation first
I've never used or even seen such a complicated procedure, here in Europe most people will just pressure-wash the crack and fill it with fresh concrete made with fine sand instead of normal aggregate. For very fine cracks you can use "cement milk" instead, that's just cement powder mixed with water to the consistency of sour cream to penetrate deep enough in the narrow gap. The only catch is that you need to keep the area wet for the next couple of days so it cures slowly, but that's as easy as spraying it with a garden hose every few hours.
In the US, Sour Cream is too thick to easily pour down the crack.
In Canada we have to contend with freeze thaw cycles
Another thing I should have added is because of the sink hole problems and the fact that big slabs are always poured with drainage considered (not level,)we almost never use self leveling but we use SSL or Slope grade sealants, we tool it very quickly knowing the tool marks will flow out( tooling the joint to improve adhesion us also the hallmark of a professional )
Tremco 45ssl is amazing. I can attest.
That wide repair happened right next to a mock joint, which is useless. The contractor probably thought that if it were to crack, putting the groove would encourage it to crack there. Wrong! Either put a true expansion joint or none at all.
Your thoughts or experience, please, using a "V-Groove" crack chaser, on a 4 1/2 in grinder, instead of the straight diamond blade you show at roughly 2:15. Thanks for the vid -- helpful.
I have never had the concrete sealer work very well..I found that the sealing that's similar to caulking last much better
Most of us ordinary mortals don't have diamond-encrusted grinding tools. So thanks for showing us what better-equipped people would do, but we'll just have to continue muddling along as best we can.
Tools from Harbor Freight for homemakers ... you will use more than you think. Live better, save in long run, tools cheaper than more goop & goo in repeat-ugly jury-rigging. I' 77 yr old female, use my grinder regularly keeping my 1947 art studio a workable space.
Obviously I am not sure where you live in the world but in the UK a new cheap grinder can be purchased for £15 about 20$ US and a cheaper diamond disk £2 to £4. A very useful tool although treat it with caution as they're one of the tools most commonly associated with visits to accident and emergency.
Thank you. Having to learn these skills late in life. Appreciate the reference!@@eagleturtleyarnell7048
So you can’t afford cheap tools?
You can also rent tools too for cheap.
Great video, what kind of sealant would you recommend for vertical cracks?
I use silicon grout. Comes in a tube. Add a little sand on top & becomes almost invisible
And very temporary
Scott, could this method be used for a crack in a basement concrete floor?
Is this repair viable for cold winter climates? You carved out the crack and only put the backer rod in 1/4". Wouldn't it be possible to get water behind the backer rod, freeze and blow out the crack making a larger repair?
No, the water drains into the soil below. The crack isn't caused by water, exactly; soil shifting under the slab causes the crack, and water can contribute to the soil shifting. But water didn't blow out the crack.
@@LuminairPrime OK
Thank you for this video. I was not aware of Backer Rod but I already have some ideas on where to use it.
Great but would suggest power wash area first to help color match
Good video, needed that info on the products. I do think that old large crack should have been an actual concrete patch though.
Hi Scott. detailed steps as usual. Will this work for small cracks in a poured concrete floor (2016 basement floor).? Thanks for your videos
Yeah, it would work for just sealing. If you wanted to do flooring over the concrete in the future I would use epoxy like in this video ua-cam.com/video/bXDYgxM-PTc/v-deo.html 👍
Scott. Thanks for the videos. I have a Concrete backyard in New Orleans La, I have repaired several cracks with the Sika product,, Gray Formula. The Concrete was stained a mid to light green and has faded where the area closet to my house was covered by an aluminum cover. The rest of the concrete, whir a majority of the cracks were fixed, was exposed to weather for the last 15 plus years. I have repainted the house with a light tan paint and have beechwood brown roof and am contemplating restraining the concrete with some shade of blight brown or tan. First, I want to make the area where the cracks were respired less visible before possibly applying some form of covering paint across the entire concrete area before appoint any brown stain or paint. Can you provide any ideas?tips on making the entire area uniform in appearance before the final steps of my project? Thanks, Greg W
It cracked there because the expansion joint didn’t. You should cut through the expansion joint and make it deeper and a little wider
Have used the sika product, it works well.
I used Tite Bond 3 glue, and it worked.great.
To handle the freeze=thaw cycles, you need to use something with polyuerethane to handle the "flexing".
Power wash....dry...application of dry mortar..wet...allow to dry.
Visually, and this could be the video, I think your other repairs have blended much better. Will this product become more mottled, and thus blend better, over time? I wonder what additional methods the sealant could accept. It's funny, the larger cracks seem easier to address. Your pool noodle trick was excellent by the way. Found yourself the super sized backer rod!
Thanks for this guide. I wonder is it suppose to have a bead above the concrete or level, I guess its more a cosmetic question?
On cracks less than 1/2" I would NOT use a sealant. Use a structural urethane adhesive with sand. It will actually bond the broken concrete and reduce the movement of the concrete slab....
come on now whip out your pressure washer - turbo tip and surface washer and clean the driveway before doing the crack repair
Hey well that turber tip get out grass in the cracks?
@@dvdcoaker YES !
Might lose some concrete along with it lol
Gotta wait for water to dry, but could be very effective. I am usually concerned about creating more damage.
Tell us how you did not watch the video
Is there a different method for much thinner cracks? I prefer not to grind them wider if possible. Thank you.
I don’t own a grinder and don’t intend to buy one just for this.
I don't see why this wouldn't work on thinner cracks, but it seems like it would get finnicky. I haven't done this before, but I'd advise you to just try with a small strip and see how well it turns out. For selfish reasons of course. If you come back angry, I know it didn't work :P
Jokes aside, I believe the backer rod will do its job even if it isn't in one piece. Should even work when sliced length wise to make it fit into the crack, and I believe the repair will work just fine with enough patience. This is not based upon experience however
I use Tile grout on hair line cracks in concrete and render, works fine lasts yrs.
What if the driveway has a slight slope for drainage? The Sikaflex Self Leveling Sealant says not to use it on a sloped driveway. Mine isn't a drastic slope but I understand that the caulk may not lay flat. I wish the Tremco Vulkem 45 SSL was available in the smaller, less bulky, tube.
Can you just fill the crack with concrete then float it ..or sponge it out..then paint the entire driveway with epoxy driveway paint?
The end result has a bead above the concrete. If I heard you correctly you said you were in Illinois. That bead wouldn't survive the first snow, your snow shovel would tear that right up. Can't you finish the job with a level fill?
People work outdoors during warm weather when concrete is expanded, but the problem is during the winter concrete shrinks in cold weather and the cracks reappear.
Well thought out and explained! Thanks! I'll be looking out for more videos from you.
2:00 Not a bad idea too, to grind-out that Crack into an upside down V shape; like this / \.
This way the Filler etc. is locked in, and less likely to pop out.
How about using patching compound? Any downsides.
Would you do this to cracks if you were then going use one of those concrete resurfacing coats over your driveway - the stuff that goes on 1/8" thick? Or would you maybe just use the backer rod material and let the concrete coating fill in the cracks?
Can you use spray foam instead of backer rod?
I have many cracks like this where the sidewalks or driveway meet. There is partial black material that appears to be used to fill the gap but is old and doesn’t completely seal the crack. Can I use this method in place of that old black material?
Yep, the old material is just the expansion joint and you can remove all the old pieces and then do this exact process.
great home repair videos, would love to see the end results too :)
I’d really like to to see this particular sealing job after it dries. It seems like you’re way too full in the cracks, creating a raised hump that will be a problem or look unsightly.
The surface looks etched from weather. Should the driveway be resurfaced with cement slurry, (more watery cement) on a power washed surface?
The poly products after time look; flakey and peal off or look foreign laying on surface.
Other videos I've seen using 45 SSL recommend a primer to help with adhesion, but you don't use it with pretty good results. Have you tried priming in the past and find it unnecessary?
Scott thank you so much for sharing your insights and knowledge. You do such a great job at explaining to a novice like me. Look forward to further videos!
Happy to help and thanks for the support 👍
Does this work on asphalt for driveway?
Sika has a similar product for asphalt amzn.to/3xRLeoC
Do you know a good method for filling cracks between a basement foundation and cement stairs right next to it?
I just Subscribed to your CHANNEL today brother 🙂
Looking to put this on my concrete basement floor. With the furnace, will this have any affect with off gassing or anything with the pilot flame? Rather not blow up my house
You always want a clean crack before proceeding to fill it
This and all of your videos are excellent - Thank You!
I have a crack similar to this one on my concrete roof, I will be opening it up a bit with the angle grinder, will this method work to seal it? The crack is letting water in the form of drops to my living room,I identified the crack while removing the old roof coating i had
He said, "Measure your crack"😂 3:31
Check it out butthead he's gonna fill the crack
@@kylescott1300 😂😅🤣😂
Hi, will these products and method also work for blacktop surfaces?
My 12 yr old drive has some kind of 1/2” solid composite backer strips - what is this stuff? It’s been lifting over the last few years in several places to the point where its causing issues with my snowblower (hitting the lifting edges). I’ve used a Japanese counter top saw to cut-level it where its lifting. I live in Michigan where snow and ice are common each winter. What should I do?😊
I imagine it is 4" deep expansion joint www.homedepot.com/p/Quikrete-1-2-in-x-4-in-x-5-ft-2-lb-Expansion-Joint-691703/100318479 I would pull it out and then do a similar process as this to put down sealant.
I like using sand instead of backer foam.
are we supposed to leave bulky just like that after pouring it ?
just don't pour it like an idiot and you should be alright
would like to see a similar vid going over vertical cracks.
Thanks for the feedback, this seems to be a popular request 👍
A person showed filling the cracks with concrete. Wondered if it cuts down on this process by using it.
2:38, thank God that bug was OK.
😂
Once concrete cracks anything you do to a crack is just a bandaid. If you want to fix it correctly, remove the old concrete and replace it with reinforced concrete.
Any way to get a closeup on the cracks post-repair? How well did it level?
not a chance
Nylon brush to clean out the crack, leaf blower to blow the stuff right back into the crack....perfect!
lol ,good one
Brush isn’t to clean. It is to loosen dirt. The blower then blows all the dust and loose debris away.
Make sure you use plenty of KY jelly.... When you're putting your backer rod in the crack
How many people will actually do that because of your comment, I wonder?
You are an excellent instructor! You explain everything so well and in depth. Providing a link to products used is a bonus. Even if one doesn't buy from Amazon or use the exact brand it is so helpful to know.
It wont last 3 mnoths
Scott I am a professional caulker that often comments on your caulking videos because, while not perfect you do far better than most. The only thing I will add to this video is DO NOT use quickcrete or any other cheap sealants, including DAP these are consumer products that professionals will never use.( quickcrete makes many VERY good concrete related products, but sealants are not one) Both Sika and Tremco/ Vulkem make industrial sealants that are used in the professional sealant industry world wide. And Don’t use sand. While the way you use it does minimize the negative affect it does shorten the life span. And finally, I know you have no other reference, ( you haven’t been installing sealants for decades) but a 2 year update does not have the meaning you think it has. Unless it has failed. Even totally botched installation of sealant very often last 5+ years.( not saying you “ botched” the installation)the true test of quality installation doesn’t start for 15-20 years( again I understand you don’t have this ability at this time.) One other “ pro” tip( I hate that term because on UA-cam almost 100% of the time it is followed by something a true pro in the USA will never do, 😊like using soapy water)try to go to whatever manufacturer you choose “ industrial/ commercial “ website and try to find the proper primer for that product. Not usually marketed to consumers, but the first thing a tech dept will ask a “ professional caulking company” is, “ did you use primer” you can try messaging their tech department.
Good stuff, I really appreciate the feedback. I have been a bit concerned the sand would impact the life of the sealant, thanks for the confirmation. I will take a look for the proper primer for the next job. Keep the comments coming 🙌
@@EverydayHomeRepairs the primer thing might be difficult for the consumer. But on industrial ( and some consumer) websites there will be verbiage such as ‘ primerless on most substrates” but on commercial/ industrial tech manuals it always says something to the affect of “ test adhesion” because this is not practical ( due to time restraints,) we always prime. And also almost all say “ prime on submerged joints” and technically during winter rains horizontal( deck) joints are submerged. ( I have represented both manufacturers and contractors in court so I understand the technicalities) don’t mean to get technical just trying to give you my professional insights. And not just typical “ professional insights” when I was young ( actually to young to technically be working in the industry ) I helped my dad working for a group of architects and lawyers representing property owners in lawsuits due to water infiltration. I have more knowledge on this subject than most. It was my dad’s job to provide proof of why there there were leaks. I was just along for the ride at that point, but learned a lot about sealant failure. This was in the late 70’s since then I have been considered an expert in this field. Providing consultation for sone if the biggest contractors in the nation including Swinerton,Clark, DPR and McCarthy
lol. i didn't clean out the crack, no prep whatsoever and filled in a crack the whole width of my driveway with silicone sealant . never opened again. that was 19 years ago
Sometimes filling a dirty crack does the trick.
I have a pool deck. I'd like to do this to. my question is, am i able to paint this to blend in with the patio so it's u seen?