I love the collab. I hope they paid you well. This is the new way of reaching the populace and you have 3 million subs. I can imaginge they paid you five figures.
@@stigI appreciate your support. Working with brands like this is new for our team but we think it will go a long way to opening doors for future growth for the channel. Cheers
This video is just what I needed! I have put this off because I didn’t feel confident about doing this project. Now I’m armed with the tools & know how to do the job right! Thank you from one of the “beginners”.😊
Jeff, for the past two years everytime I am about to start a project on my house, you have released a video THAT DAY about the project I am about to do. Thank you for all that you have done for us and please quite spying on me. 😂
I work in maintenance and do caulking weekly. It’s something Ive perfected over the years and frankly, if i do say so myself, Ive seen very few that are better than me. Just a few things for beginners, using tape is ok but be aware that time is a factor and its going to create ridge lines that catch bacteria. Also if you rely on the tape to heavily you’re going to have a terrible looking bead. Another thing is less is more… do not lay down a big heavy bead, you can always go back and add another thin line and resmooth it out. There is no product that removes caulk residue… even harsh paint thinners or mineral spirits wont strip it off - you have to scrape it off the absolute best you can, then wipe it clean with mineral spirits, then go back and scrape away anything the spirits swelled up. Clean and dry prep is key! If the edge is wet in behind you have to let it dry or use a heat gun to speed it up. Also, caulking tile is easy as it gets… i love when i get to a job and its nice tile lol its those acrylic plastic cheaper tub surrounds that are really difficult to get a good bond too, plus are difficult to run a clean bead because they flex n move. Many times you are forced to run a larger bead to get a better bond and things just look, not as great. Also, for acrylic surrounds I like to use acrylic caulk - but it has to be silicone impregnated meant for wet areas… normal acrylic caulk isn’t. The one bad thing about silicone impregnated acrylic caulk is it takes 72 hours to fully cure and it cant get wet before then! Thats longer than most can wait… especially when you add prep time on top of that. It works for me though cuz im generally working in vacant properties, but when im not im stuck using silicone. Edit: i see he addresses some of these points and im not surprised, he obviously knows his craft. But i stress… time is an issue- don’t get carried away and everyone sucks at first lol it takes years to learn even tho it looks easy.
I just learned this the hard way. 5 piece tub surround by delta is the hardest install I've ever caulked. Never did a shower before and the 5 piece looked simply "just glue it up" absolutely not. It looks awful
@@DavidHall-ff1unyes, just yes. Don’t get discouraged, you still learnt a lot from it. You can always try the caulk again another time when you’re feeling better. Those are the hardest without a doubt to make look nice and thats why none of these guys show themselves doing them on YT! Lol my only suggestion would be to make damn sure you buy a good quality tub surround adhesive and make sure you glue the absolute shit outta those 5 pieces and make sure theres little movement as possible… then buy a good quality caulk to match. Remember people in the shower will be leaning on the wall, plus the hot n cold temps will cause expansion and contraction, all these things make caulk bond not last! Good luck 🤞
This covers everything important! A good modern product like GE Supreme is much better than the old vinegar-smelling silicone we grew up with. Prep is important otherwise it won't stick. The plastic scraper tools shown are excellent. 70% or 90% alcohol are excellent for cleaning and evaporate quickly; a "two rag" method is recommended, with one wet and one dry, so the dry one immediately cleans the wet surface before it evaporates. Bring an entire roll of paper towel; it's normal to "waste" a lot of silicone, because it's very important to SMUSH that silicone against the surface it is bonding with. Henkel's and DOW's detailed instructions really emphasize pressing the silicone down. Tape is important because you WILL make a mess as an amateur. As shown in the video, the tape is NOT for creating the edge of the joint, because if the silicone hits the tape, the edge will be ruined when you take the tape off. The tape is just for preventing mess. The TOOL + PRESSURE you use to create the joint will determine the size of the joint, so tape an area bigger than your intended joint size. Not mentioned is the need for backer rod; having too much of any kind of sealant can be a bad thing, because as it expands and contracts, the bigger joint acts like a muscle that can rip itself loose. Filling a hole in the wall with an expensive sealant also wastes money. So, if there's a gap behind the joint big enough to shove a foam backer rod into, shove it in there. Keep up the good work, Canada!
I’m a handyman and I do it the same way but no tape and dry figer, never forget the rubbing alcohol . well explain for people with no experience , I like your channel
Nice tips Jeff! One tip from my side to use darker color masking tape on lighter color background or vise versa to be able to clearly see the straight line and ur caulking will be more precise
The wife has been bugging me to redo the caulking & grouting because of mold buildup. I kept putting it off. Now I know why. This video will help me do it the right way !! Time to go shopping for the right tools & supplies !!
I'm definitely in the tape-to-caulk category. No shame, just good looking results. Respect to those pros who can achieve good caulk lines with just soap, tool and skill.
Actually the use of soap before applying the caulking is the wrong way to do it. adding any moisture behind the caulk may help with the aesthetic but has a terrible effect on the bond of the silicone to the surface. you get the same result if you never added the silicone.
I did the tape method years ago and walked away as the caulk cured, forgot to remove the tape(about an hour later) and off came the caulk with it! Great video!
Amazon has the GE Supreme caulk is $45 for some unexplained reason while at Princess Auto it is $14 & Rona has it at $17 for the same size product so you may wish to look around before purchasing. I’m doing my bathtub, toilet and Kitchen counter this weekend so the video was very helpful, i’ve gotten 15 years out of those area’s however never used the Supreme grade product so will see if that particular one holds up even better. Cheers.
I wish any part of the caulking replacement job I recently did went easily but that was not the case. I had black mold on almost every inch of the caulking and nothing I tried made any of the caulking come out in one nice, long strip. It all adhered like crazy and I literally had to use several different types and sizes of hobby knife blades to get every last bit of old caulk out of there. I used the same type and brand of caulk that he’s using in this vid and it came out much nicer than the previous job did. I did this over the course of several days owing to a very bad back but it came out great in the end. I DID use blue tape during the application of the new caulk and I made sure to fill the tub up first. Worked very nicely and, several months later, it has ZERO new mold growth and is, hopefully, a job I will NOT have to do again for a LONG time.
I’m a commercial maintenance contractor. We use this product for a lot of the bathroom work. It’s good stuff. I find it takes a beating better than the rest. Thanks for the content man. I’ve followed you for a while.
THANK YOU!!!!! I've been staring at a small mold patch in the corner of my shower stall for weeks planning to attack it and this will help me massively.
Oh my word, I literally just caulked my tub today and so should have watched this beforehand!😩 At least I used the right caulk. I was actually kinda proud of my job until I watched this.😂 Hopefully it’ll do the job it’s supposed to do for awhile even if it’s an ugly mess of sorts.🤷♀️
Excellent video! Have you ever used "GE Re-New" caulk? It is supposed to be able to go over existing caulk without having to remove the existing caulk. I have used it once about 6 months ago and it has held up so far. But your thoughts would be appreciated!
4:36 my fav is denatured alcohol. Can use for many different things when comes to cleaning up types of “caulk/sealants” and also helps tool them as well. It also won’t harm 98% of materials in a house and dries super fast w/o leaving residue. Also use plastic razor blades for scrapers, as won’t cut the substrate and helps remove caulk and stickers and more, and cheap too. Those are my go to, and when tooling, put Danat Alc. in chemical proof spray bottle (YES CHEMICAL PROOF) and can mist silicone after using this and white cloth to clean clean clean (before caulk, and this won’t harm quartz, marble, etc countertops….but if have a table that’s black and has a “sealed varnish look”, don’t use as will remove that glossy look, as will rubbing alcohol) and then use tooling tool and just glides over silicone w/o sticking to everything, making a mess
One important point missing is mold mitigation. The prime reason for replacing the caulking is the mold and many times I had scraped bare the old caulking and replace it with new when after less a year, the mold start reappearing. As it really impossible to scape off all the mold as they live in the crevices and within the rough grout surfaces, I used paper tissue soaked with bleach or vinegar to cover all the caulking surface for 24 hours and re-wetting it couple more times. This ensures all the mold is killed off. Now, I still don't see any mold after 2 years.
Jeff, how did you read my mind?! I need to redo my caulk because of mold. I bought the stuff a few days ago and was wondering how to do it the right way.
just be cautious when doing the removal if you find mold behind the caulking that means you have water infiltration behind the tile. In those cases I recommend you also seal the grout on the shower wall. Once sealed you may need to replace annually until the walls dry out and the mold stops growing. hopefully the wall stays string enough to avoid the need to replace the shower walls. as well. Cheers!
You said silicone doesn't bond to dry silicone. So how do you do the vertical corner joint after you've finished the tub area, since the tub area will be dry?
I've always used DAP, which says it's mold resistant and for bathtubs, sinks, etc. And yet I've been told by a plumber that that's the wrong stuff to use for the tub. So many products say they are for tubs/bathrooms, etc, but I'm told that some are "wrong," like you did at the start of this video. What makes a product right when most of them claim to be right?
Look for a product that is 100% silicone. If it is paintable, it isn't 100% silicone. That said, I do believe there are some products that might paintable and fully waterproof but I only ever use silicone products.
the supreme 100% silicone is the best because it is formulated to bond to everything smooth and glossy. it is also the most durable and stretchy. today tubs are so flexible you need the best product on the market. For a steel tub the advanced is fine but on any acrylic surface the supreme is a no brainer for the extra buck it costs!
As mentioned, silicone won't bond to water, so easier/faster to not spend time taping (I made that mistake my first time), but after you spread the caulk, lightly spray a mist bottle of water (no soap, pure water) over it. It can't mix with the silicone. It prevents caulk from pushing under tape, it prevents issues with tape tearing, it prevents caulk on tape getting on other surfaces, etc. If you use a wet finger to wipe the silicone, it won't stick to your finger and just wipes off. If you use a dry finger, it can drag caulk out of the space! You also then need soap to wash it off your fingers. When I switched methods, it was much easier, much better looking, and took a fraction of the time for a pro result. No need to buy a special purpose single use tool either.
I still use tape on the longer runs, I just did a shower stall 6' long and the tape helped a lot on those sections. And as you say use water I don't know why he's so against it.
When I caulked the tub yesterday, I think I made a big mistake. After I applied the caulking I removed the tape the next day but didn't notice the silicone lifting off.
If my tub has grout right to the tub lip (I didn’t do it), and is now cracking off pieces along with the caulking peeling off; do I remove the grout then fill it with caulk? That would be my thought. Thanks. 🇨🇦
I wish tub to tile joints were as uniform and small as yours is there. I usually see situations where the joint is cracked, moldy and leaking water, but the joint itself is 1/4” wide at one end of the tub and 1” wide at the other. Then you are expected to leave a perfectly-finished ripple and sag-free new caulking joint….that’s what happens when someone sets a tub out of level compounded by no foresight on the tile layout.
You dont need these bead smooyhing tools. A talented finger will do the job just fine. (Plus the proper amount of aulk applied. Best to do too little than too much. You can add caulk as needed on the bead.) His tips on old caulk removal are on the money. Practice makes perfect is what I have found.
I once saw a video with a guy applying silicone and he said not to use your finger because you would be transferring bacteria from your finger onto the silicone and this will also cause mold.
on some old metal tubs you may need to use a chisel. in those cases pick up some touch up paint. then tape off the area to be chiseled. when finished apply some repair paint and let dry before using the alcohol to prep. this makes it a 2 day repair but worth it. Cheers!
alcohol won't help with the scrapper. if plastic won't work use the metal but be careful around soft materials like acrylic. Cheers! Metal is great on tile. the secret is to keep the blade sharp. once it is nicked it scratches.
Whoever installed my shower put grout everywhere, including where the wall meets the tub, the corners, and the ceiling. It's like cement and I can't get it out., yet it's cracked. I tried using a blade to cut it out, but it won't budge. Do I need to use one of those circular saws? I might have to hire someone if that's the case.
You said fill in with water but while you were applying silicone the mass of the water in the tub was much lower than your own when you were in so you'd probably be better off putting bead in while kneeling in the tub than having nearly empty tub that is far from person +water mass
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I always use water, a little, because the silicone will stick to anything you try to pull a line with. I only redo my silicone lines once every 10 to 12 years, so it can be done.
You dont need to use the tape. Caulk it and spray the bottle of glass cleaner over it and wipe with finger. Caulk wont stick to the glass cleaner and it all comes off except for the bead. The light blue lid can.
never add glass cleaner or soapy water to a silicone job. this is a gimmick to make things look good but always negatively affects the integrity of the installation.
I used that ge silicone for the kitchen sink. It looks like mold is just on top of the silicone and I tried to bleach it but it didnt remove it. But it is only on a section of the silicone. So the sink is 30inch long. and the mold is only on like 3 in of the silicone. Why is that?
sometimes organics get trapped in the silicone while drying or were left on the surface during install. once organics get wet the mold spores in the air attach themselves and then it grows. mold needs water food and a spore and that is it. a kitchen sink is very easy to find all 3 . Cheers!
Pretty sure my building’s “maintenance” worker didn’t even do any of this. I have black mold on some spots of the tub and shower caulk. I’m pretty sure the caulk he used wasn’t even rated for the bathroom. So I’m just gonna do what you did myself
Me either. however if you are going to train homeowners you start with the fact that they don't have experience with the caulking gun and expect them to over apply! Cheers!
In truth it is a sponsored video from a Company I have used for years. The video itself has never been filmed for this channel and as such it was a perfect collaboration. I got to help folks and produce a great DIY video at the same time. Cheers! Just trying to keep the lights on!
Hey man, with all due respect ....this isn't the state of the art any more. This is how Dad's did shower caulk jobs +30 years ago. CharlieDIY posted a video a couple years ago (I'll post that link) that shows exactly how to do it.
Hope you found this video helpful. You can find the link to the silicone I used in this video 👉🏼 amzn.to/3NH08CZ
I love the collab. I hope they paid you well. This is the new way of reaching the populace and you have 3 million subs. I can imaginge they paid you five figures.
@@stigI appreciate your support. Working with brands like this is new for our team but we think it will go a long way to opening doors for future growth for the channel. Cheers
You got to be kidding me dude.
I caulked my tub last year and did an awful job. I was planning on redoing it the right way next weekend. This video came out at the perfect time!
Glad it helped! You got this! Cheers!
This video is just what I needed! I have put this off because I didn’t feel confident about doing this project. Now I’m armed with the tools & know how to do the job right! Thank you from one of the “beginners”.😊
Jeff, for the past two years everytime I am about to start a project on my house, you have released a video THAT DAY about the project I am about to do. Thank you for all that you have done for us and please quite spying on me. 😂
sorry! I have recalled the drone. Now I have to find a new muse! Cheers!
I was going to say the same thing. Recall my drone, too!
Done. and once again my apologies. need to stay current , Cheers!
I work in maintenance and do caulking weekly. It’s something Ive perfected over the years and frankly, if i do say so myself, Ive seen very few that are better than me. Just a few things for beginners, using tape is ok but be aware that time is a factor and its going to create ridge lines that catch bacteria. Also if you rely on the tape to heavily you’re going to have a terrible looking bead. Another thing is less is more… do not lay down a big heavy bead, you can always go back and add another thin line and resmooth it out. There is no product that removes caulk residue… even harsh paint thinners or mineral spirits wont strip it off - you have to scrape it off the absolute best you can, then wipe it clean with mineral spirits, then go back and scrape away anything the spirits swelled up. Clean and dry prep is key! If the edge is wet in behind you have to let it dry or use a heat gun to speed it up. Also, caulking tile is easy as it gets… i love when i get to a job and its nice tile lol its those acrylic plastic cheaper tub surrounds that are really difficult to get a good bond too, plus are difficult to run a clean bead because they flex n move. Many times you are forced to run a larger bead to get a better bond and things just look, not as great. Also, for acrylic surrounds I like to use acrylic caulk - but it has to be silicone impregnated meant for wet areas… normal acrylic caulk isn’t. The one bad thing about silicone impregnated acrylic caulk is it takes 72 hours to fully cure and it cant get wet before then! Thats longer than most can wait… especially when you add prep time on top of that. It works for me though cuz im generally working in vacant properties, but when im not im stuck using silicone.
Edit: i see he addresses some of these points and im not surprised, he obviously knows his craft. But i stress… time is an issue- don’t get carried away and everyone sucks at first lol it takes years to learn even tho it looks easy.
I just learned this the hard way. 5 piece tub surround by delta is the hardest install I've ever caulked. Never did a shower before and the 5 piece looked simply "just glue it up" absolutely not. It looks awful
@@DavidHall-ff1unyes, just yes. Don’t get discouraged, you still learnt a lot from it. You can always try the caulk again another time when you’re feeling better. Those are the hardest without a doubt to make look nice and thats why none of these guys show themselves doing them on YT! Lol my only suggestion would be to make damn sure you buy a good quality tub surround adhesive and make sure you glue the absolute shit outta those 5 pieces and make sure theres little movement as possible… then buy a good quality caulk to match. Remember people in the shower will be leaning on the wall, plus the hot n cold temps will cause expansion and contraction, all these things make caulk bond not last! Good luck 🤞
Wow, It's so great that they got you a sponsorship
Way to go Jeff.
Cheers
This covers everything important! A good modern product like GE Supreme is much better than the old vinegar-smelling silicone we grew up with. Prep is important otherwise it won't stick. The plastic scraper tools shown are excellent. 70% or 90% alcohol are excellent for cleaning and evaporate quickly; a "two rag" method is recommended, with one wet and one dry, so the dry one immediately cleans the wet surface before it evaporates. Bring an entire roll of paper towel; it's normal to "waste" a lot of silicone, because it's very important to SMUSH that silicone against the surface it is bonding with. Henkel's and DOW's detailed instructions really emphasize pressing the silicone down. Tape is important because you WILL make a mess as an amateur. As shown in the video, the tape is NOT for creating the edge of the joint, because if the silicone hits the tape, the edge will be ruined when you take the tape off. The tape is just for preventing mess. The TOOL + PRESSURE you use to create the joint will determine the size of the joint, so tape an area bigger than your intended joint size.
Not mentioned is the need for backer rod; having too much of any kind of sealant can be a bad thing, because as it expands and contracts, the bigger joint acts like a muscle that can rip itself loose. Filling a hole in the wall with an expensive sealant also wastes money. So, if there's a gap behind the joint big enough to shove a foam backer rod into, shove it in there.
Keep up the good work, Canada!
I’m a handyman and I do it the same way but no tape and dry figer, never forget the rubbing alcohol . well explain for people with no experience , I like your channel
Cheers! I usually don' use the tape either but using a caulking gun can take some practice.
Nice tips Jeff!
One tip from my side to use darker color masking tape on lighter color background or vise versa to be able to clearly see the straight line and ur caulking will be more precise
The wife has been bugging me to redo the caulking & grouting because of mold buildup. I kept putting it off. Now I know why. This video will help me do it the right way !! Time to go shopping for the right tools & supplies !!
You can do it! Happy wife Happy >>>>>>>>>
I'm definitely in the tape-to-caulk category. No shame, just good looking results. Respect to those pros who can achieve good caulk lines with just soap, tool and skill.
Actually the use of soap before applying the caulking is the wrong way to do it. adding any moisture behind the caulk may help with the aesthetic but has a terrible effect on the bond of the silicone to the surface. you get the same result if you never added the silicone.
I did the tape method years ago and walked away as the caulk cured, forgot to remove the tape(about an hour later) and off came the caulk with it!
Great video!
Amazon has the GE Supreme caulk is $45 for some unexplained reason while at Princess Auto it is $14 & Rona has it at $17 for the same size product so you may wish to look around before purchasing. I’m doing my bathtub, toilet and Kitchen counter this weekend so the video was very helpful, i’ve gotten 15 years out of those area’s however never used the Supreme grade product so will see if that particular one holds up even better. Cheers.
Using a product like Sprayway allows you to tool the silicone without using tape-plus you get a proper and cleaner fill.
Thank you Jeff.
I wish any part of the caulking replacement job I recently did went easily but that was not the case. I had black mold on almost every inch of the caulking and nothing I tried made any of the caulking come out in one nice, long strip. It all adhered like crazy and I literally had to use several different types and sizes of hobby knife blades to get every last bit of old caulk out of there. I used the same type and brand of caulk that he’s using in this vid and it came out much nicer than the previous job did. I did this over the course of several days owing to a very bad back but it came out great in the end. I DID use blue tape during the application of the new caulk and I made sure to fill the tub up first. Worked very nicely and, several months later, it has ZERO new mold growth and is, hopefully, a job I will NOT have to do again for a LONG time.
I’m a commercial maintenance contractor. We use this product for a lot of the bathroom work. It’s good stuff. I find it takes a beating better than the rest.
Thanks for the content man. I’ve followed you for a while.
Cheers!
Oh nice! Just when I redid my tub after watching one of your older videos from years ago! Lol! And now I’ll go broke with your AMZN page
THANK YOU!!!!! I've been staring at a small mold patch in the corner of my shower stall for weeks planning to attack it and this will help me massively.
Happy to help! Cheers
Oh my word, I literally just caulked my tub today and so should have watched this beforehand!😩 At least I used the right caulk. I was actually kinda proud of my job until I watched this.😂 Hopefully it’ll do the job it’s supposed to do for awhile even if it’s an ugly mess of sorts.🤷♀️
Great finish on the tub. I wish you had a video on stabilizing and caulking around a toilet.
Great tips, some I did not know and will be sure to implement the next time. Thanks, always informative.
Yet again a fantastic video, Jeff! Keep em coming, we all appreciate your hard work and insight.
Cheers
I learn so much from you. I've been using soapy finger for long time. I won't from now on.
Excellent video! Have you ever used "GE Re-New" caulk? It is supposed to be able to go over existing caulk without having to remove the existing caulk. I have used it once about 6 months ago and it has held up so far. But your thoughts would be appreciated!
4:36 my fav is denatured alcohol. Can use for many different things when comes to cleaning up types of “caulk/sealants” and also helps tool them as well. It also won’t harm 98% of materials in a house and dries super fast w/o leaving residue. Also use plastic razor blades for scrapers, as won’t cut the substrate and helps remove caulk and stickers and more, and cheap too.
Those are my go to, and when tooling, put Danat Alc. in chemical proof spray bottle (YES CHEMICAL PROOF) and can mist silicone after using this and white cloth to clean clean clean (before caulk, and this won’t harm quartz, marble, etc countertops….but if have a table that’s black and has a “sealed varnish look”, don’t use as will remove that glossy look, as will rubbing alcohol) and then use tooling tool and just glides over silicone w/o sticking to everything, making a mess
For anyone that can't find denatured alcohol, I've had great results in the past using mineral spirits.
That the exact same product I just used to re-seal 2 showers and 1tub excellent product highly recommended
Thank you! Very good info. I am attempting to fix my bathtub this weekend....hopefully I will do a decent job.
You can do it! Cheers!
One important point missing is mold mitigation. The prime reason for replacing the caulking is the mold and many times I had scraped bare the old caulking and replace it with new when after less a year, the mold start reappearing. As it really impossible to scape off all the mold as they live in the crevices and within the rough grout surfaces, I used paper tissue soaked with bleach or vinegar to cover all the caulking surface for 24 hours and re-wetting it couple more times. This ensures all the mold is killed off. Now, I still don't see any mold after 2 years.
Literally have this on my list to do this weekend! Thank you!
Love when the timing works out. Cheers
Thanks Jeff ! great tips for siliconing a bathtub.
Thanks for the motivation. But at my age it is more difficult to get in and then out of the bath. I think I will use the tape you can get from ebay.
My man, this couldn't of come at a better time. 🙌
happy to help. Cheers!
Jeff, how did you read my mind?! I need to redo my caulk because of mold. I bought the stuff a few days ago and was wondering how to do it the right way.
just be cautious when doing the removal if you find mold behind the caulking that means you have water infiltration behind the tile. In those cases I recommend you also seal the grout on the shower wall. Once sealed you may need to replace annually until the walls dry out and the mold stops growing. hopefully the wall stays string enough to avoid the need to replace the shower walls. as well. Cheers!
Don't forget! The CORNER! you need to make sure you bring that gap between the new and old silicone higher then where allot of water will pool.
Highly recommend dripless caulk gun. Cost me like 50% more as it still drops just a bit but MUCH better...more fun!!!
You said silicone doesn't bond to dry silicone. So how do you do the vertical corner joint after you've finished the tub area, since the tub area will be dry?
I've always used DAP, which says it's mold resistant and for bathtubs, sinks, etc. And yet I've been told by a plumber that that's the wrong stuff to use for the tub. So many products say they are for tubs/bathrooms, etc, but I'm told that some are "wrong," like you did at the start of this video. What makes a product right when most of them claim to be right?
I recently learned DAP is cheap garbage
Look for a product that is 100% silicone. If it is paintable, it isn't 100% silicone.
That said, I do believe there are some products that might paintable and fully waterproof but I only ever use silicone products.
I only use the GE advanced 100% silicone, IMO the supreme is overkill and not worth the extra cost
the supreme 100% silicone is the best because it is formulated to bond to everything smooth and glossy. it is also the most durable and stretchy. today tubs are so flexible you need the best product on the market. For a steel tub the advanced is fine but on any acrylic surface the supreme is a no brainer for the extra buck it costs!
@HomeRenoVisionDIY thanks
As mentioned, silicone won't bond to water, so easier/faster to not spend time taping (I made that mistake my first time), but after you spread the caulk, lightly spray a mist bottle of water (no soap, pure water) over it. It can't mix with the silicone. It prevents caulk from pushing under tape, it prevents issues with tape tearing, it prevents caulk on tape getting on other surfaces, etc.
If you use a wet finger to wipe the silicone, it won't stick to your finger and just wipes off. If you use a dry finger, it can drag caulk out of the space! You also then need soap to wash it off your fingers.
When I switched methods, it was much easier, much better looking, and took a fraction of the time for a pro result.
No need to buy a special purpose single use tool either.
I still use tape on the longer runs, I just did a shower stall 6' long and the tape helped a lot on those sections. And as you say use water I don't know why he's so against it.
Thanks!
Was waiting for this moment when you would use tape. Finally it happened 😁
LOL. Cheers!
When I caulked the tub yesterday, I think I made a big mistake. After I applied the caulking I removed the tape the next day but didn't notice the silicone lifting off.
If my tub has grout right to the tub lip (I didn’t do it), and is now cracking off pieces along with the caulking peeling off; do I remove the grout then fill it with caulk? That would be my thought. Thanks. 🇨🇦
I wish tub to tile joints were as uniform and small as yours is there. I usually see situations where the joint is cracked, moldy and leaking water, but the joint itself is 1/4” wide at one end of the tub and 1” wide at the other. Then you are expected to leave a perfectly-finished ripple and sag-free new caulking joint….that’s what happens when someone sets a tub out of level compounded by no foresight on the tile layout.
Best man I learn a lot of things from you thanks a lot
I appreciate that! Happy to share my experiences. Cheers!
What do you do if your tile is (professionally) painted? I’d like to remove the caulk, but not scrape off the paint.
From tests it seems like silicone does bind well to silicone? So removing is not very necessary for binding purposes?
You dont need these bead smooyhing tools. A talented finger will do the job just fine. (Plus the proper amount of aulk applied. Best to do too little than too much. You can add caulk as needed on the bead.) His tips on old caulk removal are on the money. Practice makes perfect is what I have found.
😂just replaced my caulk 3 days ago. I was ahead of the game this time 😊
Nice!!
Good video, i suggest if your going to show suggested tools ,that you name what they are, not just random links with no name.
I once saw a video with a guy applying silicone and he said not to use your finger because you would be transferring bacteria from your finger onto the silicone and this will also cause mold.
the secret is to wash your hands first. Cheers!
Wowzer Awesome. Thank you for sharing
Happy to help!
I have been trying to remove old caulk from around our tub. It’s like concrete and have been trying everything. Any suggestions?
I've carefully used a chisel on that type of caulk.... Phenoseal is a brand that I avoid due to it getting hard as a rock.
on some old metal tubs you may need to use a chisel. in those cases pick up some touch up paint. then tape off the area to be chiseled. when finished apply some repair paint and let dry before using the alcohol to prep. this makes it a 2 day repair but worth it. Cheers!
I could've used this video 3 weeks ago! LOL. I took the tape off too late.
I have never been able to get those plastic silicone remover tools work in the past. Would denatured alcohol help?
Alcohol is nessecery to clean an area where a sealant is later. It to be better for adhesions.
alcohol won't help with the scrapper. if plastic won't work use the metal but be careful around soft materials like acrylic. Cheers! Metal is great on tile. the secret is to keep the blade sharp. once it is nicked it scratches.
Great tips thanks for that
Cheers Deanna!
Jeff: “That’s extreme - just making a point”
Me: “What do you mean extreme? That’s me just getting warmed up!” I’m an overcaulker.
Whoever installed my shower put grout everywhere, including where the wall meets the tub, the corners, and the ceiling. It's like cement and I can't get it out., yet it's cracked. I tried using a blade to cut it out, but it won't budge. Do I need to use one of those circular saws? I might have to hire someone if that's the case.
You said fill in with water but while you were applying silicone the mass of the water in the tub was much lower than your own when you were in so you'd probably be better off putting bead in while kneeling in the tub than having nearly empty tub that is far from person +water mass
My tub stopper wasn’t working very well but the show must go on. Good catch
Waste of a microfiber cloth. Use paper towels to dispose of excess material.
its a cheap shop wipe, not really microfiber. better wipe than household paper towel. though I use both for caulking
cheap blue shop wipe you mean
They are cheap it doesn’t matter
The soapy water woulda done wonders at the end when you removed the tape.
never use water as a part of a silicone installation. always destroys the integrity of what you are doing.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I always use water, a little, because the silicone will stick to anything you try to pull a line with. I only redo my silicone lines once every 10 to 12 years, so it can be done.
u took off all the silicone !!!
You dont need to use the tape. Caulk it and spray the bottle of glass cleaner over it and wipe with finger. Caulk wont stick to the glass cleaner and it all comes off except for the bead. The light blue lid can.
never add glass cleaner or soapy water to a silicone job. this is a gimmick to make things look good but always negatively affects the integrity of the installation.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Its ammonia free and does a great job. Never had any issues and so much easier with no taping. 🤙
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY its not a gimmick. its widely know and used. No one tapes 😂
@@bryanbuck6273 And a professional never uses anything but a profiling tool. Jeff is spot on but a Cramer Fugi set eliminates the need for tape
Our bad contractor used porous caulking not silicon.
What about automotive seam sealer. Forty buck for a tube like his.
How do you bleach caulking?
I like to mix bleach with baking powder to make a paste and apply with toothbrush. Let it sit for an hour or two then scrub it off.
I used that ge silicone for the kitchen sink. It looks like mold is just on top of the silicone and I tried to bleach it but it didnt remove it. But it is only on a section of the silicone. So the sink is 30inch long. and the mold is only on like 3 in of the silicone. Why is that?
sometimes organics get trapped in the silicone while drying or were left on the surface during install. once organics get wet the mold spores in the air attach themselves and then it grows. mold needs water food and a spore and that is it. a kitchen sink is very easy to find all 3 . Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY bleach didn't remove it so does that mean I have to redo the whole thing or can I just redo that section?
try one section at a time. in most cases that will be sufficient!
Vodka clean good too
I've always heard to use a wet finger and run on top of it.
It doesn't look perfect but spraying down with denatured alcohol and smoothing with finger works well. Not a fan of the tape idea.
skillfull musculine good looking Jeff
Next time please get much closer with the camera. It's important to see the details closely
Agreed, I can’t see sh&$
Thanks for the feedback. We’re always looking to improve
You mean silicone?
Pretty sure my building’s “maintenance” worker didn’t even do any of this. I have black mold on some spots of the tub and shower caulk. I’m pretty sure the caulk he used wasn’t even rated for the bathroom. So I’m just gonna do what you did myself
i hate silicone. i use the best mildew resistant latex caulk i can find
He said Caulk
In response, to the opening line.
No...what's a tub?
LOL. same for a shower base. Cheers!
More close ups!
I hear you and we just bought new close up cameras for the future videos!
Great video, but the camera work is disorienting. Makes me dizzy! 😛
GE Silicone is the absolute worst silicone I've ever used
What’s up with all that masking tape? I caulk a lot and never need that.
Me either. however if you are going to train homeowners you start with the fact that they don't have experience with the caulking gun and expect them to over apply! Cheers!
What a nonsense. I'm professional caulker and this is such a BS
The whole thing is an ad (
In truth it is a sponsored video from a Company I have used for years. The video itself has never been filmed for this channel and as such it was a perfect collaboration. I got to help folks and produce a great DIY video at the same time. Cheers! Just trying to keep the lights on!
Hey man, with all due respect ....this isn't the state of the art any more. This is how Dad's did shower caulk jobs +30 years ago. CharlieDIY posted a video a couple years ago (I'll post that link) that shows exactly how to do it.
Silicone is never the right product. Ever.
so much wrong with this comment I don't know where to start! perhaps start with removing the foil hat your wearing. Cheers!
Why not just use ur finger🤔😂💨
the finger trick is fine for a pro. this is designed to help folks out who don't have caulking experience! Cheers!
clumsy
Thanks for the motivation. But at my age it is more difficult to get in and then out of the bath. I think I will use the tape you can get from ebay.